WAYPOINTS YACHT CHARTERS

CRUISING GUIDE TO THE

SPANISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
February 2022

Baard Johansen
S/V Cuvée
Table of Contents
Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands .................................................................................. 1
Recommended Charts..................................................................................................................... 1
Further Reading .............................................................................................................................. 2
Geography ....................................................................................................................................... 3
Navigation & Piloting Considerations ............................................................................................. 4
Weather Forecasts ...................................................................................................................... 4
Seas.............................................................................................................................................. 4
Hazards ........................................................................................................................................ 4
Winds........................................................................................................................................... 5
Ground Swells.............................................................................................................................. 5
Tides & Current ........................................................................................................................... 5
Provisioning, Water, Fuel ............................................................................................................ 5
Port of Entry .................................................................................................................................... 6
Sailing Distances.............................................................................................................................. 7
St Thomas, Culebra, Culebrita, and Vieques Sailing Routes ........................................................... 9
Route from Western St Thomas ................................................................................................... 10
Sample Itineraries ......................................................................................................................... 11
Sample 4-Day Culebra Itinerary ................................................................................................ 11
Sample 6-Day Culebra & Vieques Itinerary (shorter return leg to St Thomas) ......................... 11
Sample 6-Day Culebra & Vieques Itinerary (longer return leg to St Thomas) .......................... 12
Culebra .......................................................................................................................................... 13
Moorings ................................................................................................................................... 13
Ensenada Honda ........................................................................................................................... 14
Dewey ........................................................................................................................................... 16
Transportation........................................................................................................................... 16
Provisioning and Dining............................................................................................................. 16
Culebra Anchorages ...................................................................................................................... 21
Ensenada Dakity ............................................................................................................................ 22
Bahia de Almodovar ...................................................................................................................... 23
WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Bahia Flamenco ............................................................................................................................. 25

Bahia Tamarindo and Playa Carlos Rosario .................................................................................. 27
Cayo de Luis Peña ......................................................................................................................... 29
Culebrita Lighthouse ................................................................................................................. 32
Vieques.......................................................................................................................................... 35
Passage to Vieques .................................................................................................................... 36
Esperanza ...................................................................................................................................... 37
Bio Bay Tour .............................................................................................................................. 40
Ensenada Sun Bay ......................................................................................................................... 41
Bahia de la Chiva ........................................................................................................................... 42

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Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands
The Waypoints Yacht Charters - Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands is intended for
use in conjunction with either U.S. National Ocean Survey charts, U.S. Hydrographic Office
charts, N.V. Charts, Imray charts or British Admiralty charts. Every effort has been made
to describe conditions accurately. However, Waypoints Yacht Charters or the Author make no
warranty, express or implied, for any errors or omissions in this publication. Skippers should use
this guide only in conjunction with the above charts and/or other navigational aids and not
place undue credence in the accuracy of this guide.

The Waypoints Yacht Charters - Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands is not intended
for use for navigational purposes.

Recommended Charts
• Imray A23 - Virgin Island and St Croix, Scale 1:285,000 (Passage planning from US Virgin
Islands and British Virgin Islands to Culebra and Eastern Vieques)
• Imray A13 – Cabo San Juan to Culebra Island and Punta Figuras, Scale 1:116,700 (Coastal
coverage of Eastern Puerto Rico, Culebra and Vieques)
• Imray A131 – Isla De Culebra and Isla De Vieques, Scale 1:33,500 and 1:44,500 (Large
scale coverage of Culebra and Vieques)

• NOAA 25650 – Virgin Passage and Sonda de Vieques, Scale 1:100,000 (Passage planning
from western St Thomas to Culebra, Vieques and eastern Puerto Rico)
• NOAA 25653 – Isla de Culebra and Approaches, Scale 1:20,000 (Large scale coverage of
Culebra)
• NOAA 25664 – Pasaje de Vieques and Radas Roosevelt, Scale 1:25,000 (Large scale
coverage of western Vieques). No large-scale NOAA chart available for entire Vieques.
NOAA charts can be viewed and downloaded for free at
www.charts.noaa.gov/ChartCatalog/GulfCoast.html.

The Navionics on-line Chart Viewer (www.navionics.com/usa/) is useful to plan sailing

routes, distances, headings, and sailing times.

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Further Reading
• Pavlidis, Stephen J., A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico: Including the Spanish Virgin
Islands and the Dominican Republic, Seaworthy Publications, Inc, 3rd Edition, 2015.
• Street, Donald M., Puerto Rico, the Spanish, U.S. and British Virgin Islands,
iUniverse.com, Inc, 2001.
• Virgintino, Frank, A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico 2.0, www.freecruisingguides.com,
2015.
• Street, Don M., “Reach (Don’t Beat) Through the Virgin Islands”, Cruising World, 2013,
www.cruisingworld.com/destinations/reach-dont-beat-through-virgin-islands/
• Vieques Public Use Areas and Offshore Safety Zones, Naval Facilities Engineering
Command, 2019,
www.navfac.navy.mil/content/dam/navfac/Environmental/PDFs/env_restoration/viequ
es/RAB_Poster_Public_Use_Areas_201908.pdf.
• Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, 2008,
www.fws.gov/southeast/pdf/brochure/vieques-national-wildlife-refuge-english.pdf2.
• Culebra National Wildlife Refuge, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service,
www.fws.gov/southeast/pdf/fact-sheet/culebra-national-wildlife-refuge-english.pdf.
• Vieques Insider On-Line magazine, www.viequesinsider.com, Published 2014 to 2017.
• Vieques On-Line Tourism Guide, www.vieques.com.

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Not for Navigation

Formerly known as the Passage Islands, Culebra and Vieques, the two biggest islands in a
group that includes a couple of dozen smaller islets, or cayos, are part of the Commonwealth of
Puerto Rico. They were used for target practice by the U.S. Navy between 1939 and 1975, when
protests by the locals forced the Navy to stop shelling Culebra and concentrate on the larger
Vieques. The last bombs fell on Vieques in 2003. Since then peace has reigned.

Perhaps the stigma of those days lingers among tourists and even sailors, because the Spanish
Virgins remain firmly off the beaten track, both physically and metaphorically. This is just fine
and dandy with those who like uncrowded anchorages, beautiful beaches, pristine waters and a
total lack of cruise ships. The islands are unspoiled by development, and neglected by the
cruising and charter communities.

Similar in aspect—hilly and scrubby—to the BVI and USVI, the Spanish Virgins nevertheless
retain a sense of sleepy individuality.

Geography
The terrain of Culebra is hilly with a maximum altitude of 551 feet. Most of the land is pasture
or brush. The principal feature is Ensenada Honda, a large natural bay on the south side of the
island, that is relatively well-protected from the trade winds.
The terrain of Vieques is a broad plain of pasture or brush that slopes to the south from a
central ridge extending across the western half of the island. The ridge reaches a maximum
altitude of 981 feet at Monte Pirata on the southwestern end of the island. The eastern end of
the island is much flatter and drier with a maximum altitude of only 258 feet marked by a
prominent white blockhouse that served as the Navy’s control tower for bombing operations.
Annual total rainfall on both islands averages 36” with December to March usually the driest. A
pipeline connects Culebra and Vieques to the public water supply of Puerto Rico.

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Navigation & Piloting Considerations

It’s usually an easy 22-mile downwind sail from Waypoints to the Ensenada Honda
anchorage in Culebra near the town dock. However, about 15-miles of the passage is
quite exposed so careful planning is required, especially for the normally upwind return to St
Thomas.
For a pleasant return passage to St Thomas that will avoid mutiny by your spouse and crew, it’s
recommended that the marine forecast be for less than 5-foot seas with winds less than
15 knots. Be prepared to have a backup plan if the forecast doesn’t cooperate. I’ve
often postponed the passage to the SVI by several days and gone to St John or BVI instead.
If you are stuck returning to St Thomas with rough seas, slow the boat to 5~6 knots or less to
minimize the pounding on the crew and vessel.

Weather Forecasts
Before planning any passage to/from the SVI, be sure to consult the longer-term marine
forecast, such as the 10-day forecast from WindFinder (www.windfinder.com) and the National
Weather Service 5-day forecast (www.forecast.weather.gov – search for AMZ715 and AMZ725
forecasts). Forecasts for the Station 41052 weather buoy located several miles south of St John
can provide a good indication of the current and expected conditions for this passage.

Seas
The seas between Savanna Island (west of St Thomas) and Culebra/Vieques can often be very
rough and confused due to the effects of wind driven waves, north ground swell,
equatorial current, opposing tide, and the relatively shallow water of only 80 to 120
feet. This is particularly magnified in the shoal waters that extend out for a mile or more
to the east of Culebra and Vieques. Generally, the seas are roughest in the passage from Sail
Rock to Culebra and Vieques.
➢ When passing around the eastern tip of Vieques at Punta Este, stay at least ½ mile to 1
mile offshore (particularly with an opposing tide flowing towards the east) as the seas
quickly pile up in the shallow waters off this point.
➢ When heading eastward from Culebra (past Red Nun #2 buoy) or from Culebrita (past its
northern point at Cabo del Pasaje), you should anticipate particularly confused seas in
these shoal waters especially with an eastward flowing tide.
Hazards
Unlike much of the US and British Virgin Islands, there are numerous (mostly unmarked)
fringing reefs that extend out from the shoreline that must be avoided. Higher navigation skills
are required than is typically required in the BVIs. Entrance to most bays and anchorages
should be attempted between 10 am and 2 pm with the sun high in the sky. Knowing how to
read the water is as important as knowing how to read a chart.

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Winds
From November to July, winds will normally be 10 to 20 knots, and can increase to 20-30 knots
as cold fronts pass through. In winter, they are generally east to northeast. By May, they are
generally east to southeast.

Ground Swells
Ground swells produced by storms in the North Atlantic, usually occur during the winter
months of November through April and will produce heavy swell along the entire north coast of
the Spanish Virgin Islands. These can make several anchorages untenable and dangerous.
Sustained southeasterly winds during the summer months can build a significant swell that will
make several anchorages on the south coast of the islands uncomfortable.

Tides & Current

As a generalization, there is an average of one knot of North Equatorial current that flows from
east to west.
The tide and current can often flow at 2 knots in the passage north (Canal de Cayo Norte) and
south (Canal de Luis Pena) of Culebra.
Crossing the channel between Culebra/Vieques and St Thomas with a favorable tide will make
your passage faster. Water generally tries to run towards the moon and some general rules are
provided below. Search for moonrise times at www.timeanddate.com.
• Eastward tide (runs from west to east)
o From moonrise to about 1 hour after the moon reaches its zenith
o From moonset to just after its nadir
• Westward tide (runs from east to west)
o From just after moon’s zenith until moonset
o From just after moon’s nadir until moonrise
• The maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons.

Provisioning, Water, Fuel

There are no marinas on any of the SVIs so make sure you carry adequate diesel fuel and
water before you depart WAYPOINTS. An onboard watermaker and icemaker will be much
appreciated.
There are no large supermarket chains so do your provisioning in St Thomas before heading to
the SVI. Once on Culebra, you can do minor provisioning at Colmado Milka in Dewey.
On Vieques, the Green Store in Esperanza has some basic provisions and ice.
Gasoline for dinghy fuel is available on Culebra at the Dakiti Gas Station in Dewey.

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Port of Entry
Vessels traveling from USVI to the Spanish Virgin Islands must report their arrival at the nearest
U.S. Customs and Border Protection facility. Optionally (and preferably), you may report your
U.S. entry to CBP electronically via a smart phone using the CBP ROAM app, a free mobile
application.

CBP ROAM User Tips

• Download the CBP ROAM app and setup a free login.gov account before you travel. See
the Getting Started instructions on the CBP website - www.cbp.gov/travel/pleasure-
boats-private-flyers/pleasure-boat-overview/roam
• The app does not run on older Android phones, such as Samsung Galaxy S5. It runs fine
on an S8 or S9.
• You may get an error message that the app does not have permission to view your
location although you set this permission to ALLOW when installing the app. Reset the
permission to DENY. When you again receive the error message the app will take you to
a settings page where you can reset the permission to ALLOW.
• The app will detect your location and you must be within U.S. territorial waters when
you submit your arrival, otherwise it will reject your submittal (or you may get a
SUBMITTING message when an endlessly spinning icon).
• You’ll need a strong cellphone signal. I have always submitted my arrival from Ensenada
Honda, Culebra. The cellphone signal tends to be weak near Culebrita.
• When you submit your arrival, the app will show a SUBMITTING message – this should
last less than a minute. It will then show a PENDING message that the submittal is
awaiting CBP review – this shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes or so. You’ll then get a
message requesting to initiate a video chat. All the crew need to be present as the
officer will likely request to see each crew member holding their own passport.
• To expedite future SVI arrivals, you can enroll in the Verified Traveler program when you
submit your arrival. During the video chat, the CBP officer will simply confirm your face
matches the one on your passport.
If you are unable to use the CBP ROAM app, the telephone number to report arrival seven days
a week is 1-877-529-6840 or (787) 729-6840, manned from 0800 until 2400. You will need to
provide the following information:
• Name, date of birth, citizenship, passport number and visa information if applicable of
all persons on board
• Name of the boat, USCG documentation number, boat manufacturer
• CBP user fee decal number (WAYPOINTS will point out the decal location on the boat)
• Return contact phone number
CBP may still require a face-to-face reporting. In Culebra, the CBP office is located at the
airport. It’s a ¾-mile, 20-minute walk from the town dock that is across from the Dinghy Dock
Restaurant in Ensenada Honda.

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Sailing Distances

Not for Navigation

Duration
Distance (nm) (@ 7 kts VMG)
WAYPOINTS to
o Culebra (Dewey, Ensenada Honda) 22 3h10m
o Culebrita (Bahia de Tortuga) 17 2h25m
o Vieques (Esperanza) 35 5h

Culebra (Dewey, Ensenada Honda) to

o Culebra (Ensenada Dakity) 1.3 11m
o Culebra (Bahia de Almodovar) 4.4 40m
o Culebrita (Bahia de Tortuga) 6.9 1h
o Culebra (Playa Flamenco) 9.6 1h25m
o Culebra (Playa Carlos Rosario) 6.9 via south shore 1h
13.1 via north shore 1h50m
o Culebra (Playa Tamarindo) 6.6 via south shore 55m
13.6 via north shore 1h55m
o St Thomas (Brewers Bay, Airport) 20 2h50m
o St Thomas (WAYPOINTS) 22 3h10m
o Great St James (Christmas Cove) 28 3h55m
o St John (Francis Bay) 34 4h45m

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Duration
Distance (nm) (@ 7 kts VMG)
Culebrita (Bahia de Tortuga) to
o St Thomas (Brewers Bay, Airport) 15 2h10m
o St Thomas (WAYPOINTS) 17 2h25m
o Great St James (Christmas Cove) 24 3h25m
o St John (Francis Bay) 30 4h15m

Vieques (Esperanza) to
o Vieques (Ensenada Sun Bay) 1.6 15m
o Vieques (Bahia de la Chiva) 6.2 55m
o Vieques (Punta Este) 13 1h50m
o Culebra (Dewey, Ensenada Honda) 24 3h25m
o Culebrita (Bahia de Tortuga) 26 3h45m
o St Thomas (WAYPOINTS) 35 5h
o Great St James (Christmas Cove) 40 5h40m
o St John (Salt Pond Bay) 47 6h40m

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St Thomas, Culebra, Culebrita, and Vieques Sailing Routes

Not for Navigation

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Route from Western St Thomas

Departing from WAYPOINTS to Culebra or Vieques, the usual route is:
1. South through Haulover Cut, between St Thomas and Hassel Island.
➢ Watch for partially submerged concrete bulwarks extending from each shore.
2. Proceed west through West Gregerie Channel.
3. Keep north of Red/Green “GC” buoy.
➢ Do not pass south of Red/Green ‘GC’. There are submerged rocks off Sandy Pt.
4. Pass just south of Green ‘5’ buoy and Green ‘3’ buoy.
➢ Do not stray north of Green ‘3’ buoy as there are partially submerged rocks that
extend ½-mile from Red Point south of the airport.
5. Stay on a 270°T course to pass north of Flat Cays. Note that the fringing reef extends
about ¼-mile from the beach at Flat Cays.
6. Once past Flat Cays, you can set your course for Culebra or Vieques. When headed to
Ensenada Honda, Culebra, you’ll pass about 1 mile north of Sail Rock in 50~60 minutes.

Partially Sandy Pt
Submerged Rocks Rock
Submerg

Flat Cays

Porpoise Rocks Not for Navigation

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Sample Itineraries

Sample 4-Day Culebra Itinerary

Day 1 - WAYPOINTS to Ensenada Honda, Culebra (22 nm, ~3h10m) *
o Explore Dewey, then taxi to Playa Flamenco
o Dinner in Dewey
Day 2 - Circumnavigate Culebra (18 nm, ~2h30m)
o Lunch and snorkeling at Playa Tamarindo or Playa Carlos Rosario
o Return along south coast of Culebra, depending on conditions
o Overnight at Bahia de Almodovar
Day 3 – Culebrita (4 nm, ~30m)
o Day stop or overnight at Bahia de Tortuga (depending on conditions)
Day 4 - Return to WAYPOINTS (17 nm, ~2h25m),
or explore St Thomas, St John, or BVI

Sample 6-Day Culebra & Vieques Itinerary (shorter return leg to St

Thomas) Day 1 - WAYPOINTS to Ensenada Honda, Culebra (22 nm, ~3h10m) *
o Explore Dewey, then taxi to Playa Flamenco
o Dinner in Dewey
Day 2 - Circumnavigate Culebra (18 nm, ~2h30m)
o Lunch and snorkeling at Playa Tamarindo or Playa Carlos Rosario
o Return along south coast of Culebra, depending on conditions
o Overnight at Bahia de Almodovar
Day 3 – Bahia de Almodovar to Esperanza, Vieques (24 nm, ~3h25m)
o Lunch in Esperanza
o Evening Biobay tour (ideally in the two-week window from 3 days after the Full
Moon to 3 days after the New Moon)
Day 4 – Esperanza to Bahia de la Chiva, Vieques (6.2 nm, ~55m)
Day 5 – Bahia de la Chiva to Culebrita (20 nm, ~2h55m)
o Day stop or overnight at Bahia de Tortuga (depending on conditions)
Day 6 - Return to WAYPOINTS (17 nm, ~2h25m)

* Sailing times assume average Velocity Made Good (VMG) of 7 knots, which may be optimistic
depending on conditions and the vessel.
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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Sample 6-Day Culebra & Vieques Itinerary (longer return leg to St Thomas) Day 1 -
WAYPOINTS to Ensenada Honda, Culebra (22 nm, ~3h10m) *
o Explore Dewey, then taxi to Playa Flamenco
o Dinner in Dewey
Day 2 - Circumnavigate Culebra (18 nm, ~2h30m)
o Lunch and snorkeling at Playa Tamarindo or Playa Carlos Rosario
o Return along south coast of Culebra, depending on conditions
o Overnight at Bahia de Almodovar
Day 3 – Culebrita (4 nm, ~30m)
o Day stop or overnight at Bahia de Tortuga (depending on conditions)
Day 4 – Culebrita to Esperanza, Vieques (26 nm, ~3h45m)
o Lunch in Esperanza
o Evening Biobay tour (ideally in the two-week window from 3 days after the Full
Moon to 3 days after the New Moon)
Day 5 – Esperanza to Bahia de la Chiva, Vieques (6.2 nm,
~55m) Day 6 - Return to WAYPOINTS (29 nm, ~4h10m)
o This is typically a more comfortable sail in the summer months when winds are
from the southeast.

* Sailing times assume average Velocity Made Good (VMG) of 7 knots, which may be optimistic
depending on conditions and the vessel.

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Culebra
Culebra is an unspoiled beauty of an island. This is a perfect destination to spend a few days on
your sailing vacation enjoying the natural beauty of this island. Home to 2,000 residents, who
live strictly by “island time,” this island has no resorts or nightclubs to entertain you.
Since 1909, the entire coastline and one-third of the interior has been designated the Culebra
National Wildlife Refuge, run by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. These protected lands are
home to endangered sea turtles, including the leatherback turtle, and some 50,000 sea birds.
Some of the Caribbean’s best diving and snorkeling is on Culebra, whose reefs are also
protected by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Moorings
The Puerto Rico Department of Natural and Environment Resources (DNRA) several years ago
put out over 90 free mooring balls around Culebra. As of mid-2019, only about 50 remain and
many are in poor condition with missing or frayed pennants. USE THEM WITH CAUTION. They
are marked DRNA with a blue strip. Many are marked as ‘day use only’, but apparently that was
only because they ran out of unmarked balls!

Playa
Flamenco

Bahia de Tortuga
Playa Carlos Rosario
Bahia Tamarindo

Culebrita
Cayo Pirata
Cayo Luis Pena
Ensenada
Dewe Honda
y Bahia de
Almodovar

Ensenada
Dakity

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Ensenada Honda
Arriving from St Thomas, there is a well-marked channel, Canal del Esta, that leads into
Ensenada Honda, but extreme caution is required to stay south of the off-lying reefs (Arrecife
Culebrita) and then to avoid the reefs to either side of Canal del Este as you enter Ensenada
Honda harbor.

Reefs

Not for Navigation

1. From St Thomas, once past Flat Cays, head to a waypoint at 18° 16.00’ N, 65° 15.50’ W. This
will place you in deep water ¾-mile southeast of Red Nun ‘2’. This waypoint will have you
aimed towards the southern tip of Culebra as seen in the picture taken from 4.5 miles away.
➢ Do not steer towards the high hills of Culebra or Culebrita!
➢ It’s critical to monitor your Course Over Ground to confirm you are not being set to the
north as you approach RN ‘2’. If you pass north of RN ‘2’, you will be aground on Arrecife
Culebrita!

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WAYPOINTS Yacht Charters – Cruising Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands

Waypoint
¾-mile South-East
of Red Nun ‘2’
Culebrita

DANGER - Reefs – Arrecife Culebrita

Approach from St Thomas (Flat Cays) to Culebra, 4.5nm from RN ‘2’

2. Keep RN ‘2’ to starboard. Steer generally north-west passing between G ‘3’ and R ‘4’.
3. Keep G ‘3’ to port and head for passage between G ‘5’ and R ‘6’, then head onwards keeping
R ‘8’ to starboard.
4. Turn slightly to port to pass between G ‘9’ and R ‘10’. The reefs to either side are partially
exposed.
5. Once inside the harbor, keep R ‘12’ to starboard.

There are several places to anchor in Ensenada Honda. Most boats anchor off Cayo Pirata for
easy dinghy access to the small town of Dewey. The anchorage can get crowded with cruisers
in high season and many try to anchor close to Dewey or Cayo Pirata where the depth is about
25 feet. All moorings are private. A south-east wind will accelerate as it funnels into the harbor
so use plenty of anchor scope.
➢ I recommend anchoring a bit further west into the
harbor past Cayo Pirata, downwind of most other
boats, where the depth is about 13’.
➢ The bottom contains lots of sea grass so lay out
at least 5:1 scope (preferably 6:1 or 7:1 scope)
and back down on the anchor to make sure it’s
set before heading ashore.

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Dewey
The sleepy town of Dewey is comprised of a ragtag assortment of two-story wooden homes and
a handful of bars and restaurants, whose owners may or may not chose to open them on any
given day.
You can tie up your dinghy at the large concrete town dock across from the Dinghy Dock
restaurant, though you may find it full with large cruising boats. Alternatively, you can tie up at
the Dinghy Dock restaurant or further up the creek under the lift-bridge to Mamacita’s on your
right side. Buy a couple drinks before you go exploring!
➢ LOCK YOUR DINGHY and FUEL TANK when tying up. Don’t leave valuables unattended.
You can dinghy under the lift-bridge through a small mangrove lagoon to the ferry dock at
Bahia de Sardinas. To your left you’ll see a large wooden statue of Hector “The Protector”.

Transportation
There are only about 7 miles of road on Culebra, but Jeeps and golf carts can be rented at
Carlos Jeep Rental (787-742-3514) and Jerry’s Jeep Rental (787-742-0526), both about a 15-
minute walk from the town dock onto Rt 250 towards the airport and they may offer pick-up
service.
All the taxis are private and I’ve found it difficult to find up-to-date phone listings. I had great
service from Xavier Transportation Services (787-463-0475) in 2016. Taxis can usually be found
near the commercial ferry dock waiting for arriving ferries. A roundtrip to Playa Flamenco is
about $10 per-person.

Provisioning and Dining

There are 3 food markets advertised on Culebra, Colmado Milka’s, Costa del Sol, and Mayra’s.
We have visited Colmado Milka’s, across the bridge and before the gas station, and for minor
provisioning they have a decent selection of frozen and canned groceries, assorted produce,
and wine/beer/liquor. The reportedly also have a meat counter and butcher.
• Breakfast/Lunch: PanDeli Bakery (787-742-3311)
• Lunch/Dinner: Mamacita’s (787-742-0090) – excellent whole red snapper!
Dinghy Dock (787-742-0233)
Zaco’s Tacos (787-742-0243, Su-F)
Heather’s Pizza (787-742-3175)
• Dinner: El Eden (787-617-8517, W-Sa)
Krusty Krab (787-435-0671, W-Su)

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Anchor in
13 feet

Town
Dock

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The Small Town of Dewey

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Mamacita’s Restaurant – near the non-lifting lift bridge

Dinghy Dock Restaurant

Popular Restaurants in Dewey

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Airport – U.S. CBP Office

(3/4-mile – 20-minute walk)

Location of U.S. Customs & Border Protection office on Culebra

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Culebra Anchorages
There are two excellent anchorages on the west coast of Culebra - Ensenada Dakity and Bahia
de Almodovar.

Not for Navigation

Approaches from Ensenada Honda to Ensenada Dakity and Bahia de Almodovar

On the north coast of Culebra, Playa Flamenco is the only viable anchorage and only under very
settled weather conditions.
There are numerous small anchorages on the west to south coasts of Culebra, though many
only have room for 1 or 2 boats. Playa Carlos Rosario and Bahia Tamarindo are good
anchorages, depending on the wind direction and swell, offer small sand beaches and excellent
snorkeling.
The island of Culebrita, northeast of Culebra, offers perhaps the loveliest anchorage in the
entire SVI, USVI, and BVI, but only if the conditions are relatively settled with no north swell.
The small island of Cayo de Luis Peña, southwest of Culebra, offers one viable anchorage in
very settled conditions.

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Ensenada Dakity
Don Street describes Ensenada Dakity as one of the better anchorages in the Caribbean. There
you have calm water, as the reef to windward breaks the swell and the wind comes across the
reef. Unfortunately, it seems to be filled to capacity most times of the year, and especially on
weekends.
The only safe entrance to Ensenada Dakity is from the north, by Punta Colorado. Enter with
good overhead light.
There are 9 free moorings (as of July 2019) in the northern portion of the bay, near the
underwater ledge of the reef. Use them with caution! One can also anchor in about 20 feet
closer to the entrance of the bay.
➢ OFF LIMITS. Ignore the 5 moorings in the southern portion of the bay. They are tightly-
spaced, the water is very shallow and there is very limited turning room!
➢ OFF LIMITS. Do not enter Ensenada Malena, just south of Ensenada Dakity.

Anchoring

Moorings

Not for Navigation

Off Limits

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Bahia de Almodovar
Don Street writes “Without doubt, this is one of the finest anchorages in the entire Eastern
Caribbean – clear water, white-sand bottom, and a reef to windward that breaks the seas”. At
night you can watch the twinkling lights of St. Thomas 15 miles away come on as the sun sets
on another perfect day of your sailing trip.
The entrance to Puerto del Manglar will open up as you pass by heading north or south. Head in
on a roughly NW course staying in 50 feet of water. The reefs on either side of the entrance are
just barely awash so enter when there is good overhead light. Continue into the bay.
The entrance to Bahia de Almodovar can be a bit tricky. There are 3 private balls used as
navigational aids to show the narrow channel in to the bay (Note that these balls may have
since been removed). Take it slow and keep these balls to port as you enter. Stay centered
between them and the mangroves to starboard. You’ll have 10+ feet of water.
➢ OFF LIMITS. The paper and electronic charts may show that there are two small
“islands” to the north and northwest of Pelaita. These are in fact reefs that only break
the surface at low-low water in summer. There is no navigable water between these
“islands”. DO NOT ATTEMPT to pass between them.
There are 9 free moorings (as of July 2019) in the bay. Use these with caution! There is usually
plenty of room to anchor in about 20 feet closer to the middle of the bay.

Private Marker

Moorings

Not for Navigation

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Views of Bahia de Almodovar

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Bahia Flamenco
There are three roads on Culebra – all leading to a beach. The most famous and perhaps most
spectacular in the entire Caribbean is Playa Flamenco in Bahia Flamenco. This wide, smooth
beach is made up of white sand as fine as powder sugar.
WARNING: This anchorage is very exposed to ANY north swell and to trade wind-driven
swells. Entering the bay should only be attempted under ideal conditions with calm seas and
light wind. If there is forecast for worsening conditions during the evening, then this should
be a DAY STOP only.
The anchorage should be entered slightly towards the eastern shore. If you see breaking
waves in front of you, turn around! The entrance bar carries about 11 feet then deepens as
you pass into the bay. There are two large buoyed swim areas on either side of the beach. The
bay tends to be calmest near the swim area on the eastern shore. Anchor far enough out so
that if you are backwinded you won’t tangle in the swim buoys.
You will need to beach your dinghy to go ashore using care to time the swells when offloading
and loading. The beach is gently sloping so its relatively easy to drag it above the surf line.
In less than ideal conditions, it is much easier and less stressful to take a taxi or rental car from
Dewey to Playa Flamenco. Roundtrip taxi fare is about $10 per-person.
No glass is permitted on the beach - bags and coolers are regularly checked as you approach
the beach. There are several food stalls that serve good local dishes such as empanadas ($3-$4)
and Medalla Light beer ($2.20). There are basic restrooms and outdoor showers.

Not for Navigation

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Swim Buoys

Anchorage
Dinghy
landing

Swim Buoys

World Famous Playa Flamenco

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Bahia Tamarindo and Playa Carlos Rosario

Bahia Tamarindo is typically a good anchorage in winter and early spring, when the winds are E
to NE. It is exposed in the summer months when the wind comes from the SE. There are 7
mooring balls (Jan-2019) off the beach at Playa Tamarindo and one mooring ball in Bahia
Tamarindo. Use them with caution! There is excellent snorkeling between Punta Tamarindo
and Punta Tamarindo Grande with vast numbers of conch.
➢ CAUTION: The mooring balls closest to the beach at Playa Tamarindo are located in
very shallow water. Check your depth gauge as you approach. Monohulls should avoid
these inner mooring balls.

The anchorage north of Punta Tamarindo Grande, near the beach Playa Carlos Rosario, has 4~5
free moorings. Use them with caution! It is a good anchorage in the summer months when the
winds are E to SE. It is open to the winter ground swell. There is excellent snorkeling along the
reef.

Playa
Carlos Rosario
Moorings
Playa Tamarindo

Moorings

Not for Navigation

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Aerial View of Bahia Tamarindo, Playa Tamarindo and Playa Carlos Rosario

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Cayo de Luis Peña

Cayo de Luis Peña is off the southwest coast of Culebra and is a U.S. Fish and Game Refuge. The
southwest side of Cayo de Luis Peña offers the only practical anchorage for charter boats (given the
deep drop-off on the northwest and west sides of the island). It can only be used in settled conditions,
with no north swell running and no strong SE winds. There is one mooring ball on the SE side and one
on the west side (but both mooring balls were dilapidated as of May 2019). The snorkeling is reported
to be excellent.

Mooring

Mooring

Not for Navigation

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Culebrita

The hands-down favorite in the SVI is the tiny uninhabited island of Culebrita, where the ruins
of a lighthouse atop the hill offers panoramic views. The 700-yard long white sand crescent on
Bahia de Tortuga, framed by palm trees that survived Hurricanes Irma and Maria, is fabulous.
The snorkeling here is also excellent.
WARNING: Bahia de Tortuga is completely exposed to the northerly ground swell in winter
(usually November to April), so it can be very uncomfortable especially for a monohull. Even a
strong easterly trade wind-driven swell can make its way into the bay.
➢ As a rule-of-thumb, Bahia de Tortuga should be avoided when the ground swell is
greater than 2~3 feet, especially if accompanied by strong East to NE trade winds.
➢ The rapidly shoaling entrance to Bahia de Tortuga experiences dangerous steep seas
when there is a ground swell or strong East to NE trade wind-driven swell. Worse is that
you will be beam-to passing through these seas. Approaching the bay, you will have the
seas more towards your bow so you can better anticipate as you steer. Exiting the bay,
the seas will be more from your aft and more difficult to see and anticipate.
➢ Even in mild conditions, the seas will still increase in height so be prepared to
experience heavy rolling – secure all loose objects onboard particularly in the galley!
Navigating to Culebrita from Ensenada Honda, follow the previously described route towards
Puerto del Manglar and Bahia de Almodovar following the Canal Del Sur. Continue around the
eastern tip of Culebra, giving the rocks off Cabeze de Perro a wide berth. You will be entering
the Canal del Culebrita.
You can anchor in the lee of Culebrita on its southwestern shore if there are settled conditions.
Note that the bottom comes up very steeply here. There is one mooring ball (as of July-2019).
Use with caution! There is very good snorkeling along the reef to the east of the mooring ball.
The current can run at 2 knots through here so be cautious when swimming.
The approach to Bahia de Tortuga should only be attempted with good overhead light and in
settled sea conditions. Continue around Cayo Botella (do not go ashore as they still clearing
unexploded ordinance!). The charts show the approximate location of the underwater ledge –
keep in deeper water as you round Cayo Botella. Keep well away from the reefs between it and
Culebrita. Once well past Cayo Botella, continue on a roughly southeast course into the bay of
Bahia de Tortuga. Watch for steep seas as you make your final approach towards the bay.
Keep well off the reef on the northern side of the bay which can be difficult to see.
Avoid the few remaining mooring balls (4 inner and 1 outer as of July-2019). The most
protected anchorage is towards the northeast corner of the beach in about 15 feet. The holding
is excellent. With settled conditions, the bay will start to fill up by 11 am with local power
boaters from Puerto Rico that usually anchor stern-to the beach. By 3-4 pm they pack up and
depart, leaving you with usually only 1 or 2 other boats overnighting.

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DANGER: Seas Break

during High Swell

Bahia de Tortuga

Mooring

Not for Navigation

Approach to Culebrita

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DANGER: Seas Break during High Swell

Bahia de Tortuga

Mooring

Not for Navigation

Approach to Bahia de Tortuga, Culebrita

Culebrita is a protected U.S. Fish & Wildlife refuge. The beach is open from 6 am to 6 pm. The
numerous sea turtles in the bay are protected by state and federal law – no touching or
feeding.
The best dinghy landing area is on the shallow beach in the northeast corner.
It’s a 5-minute hike to the natural pools on the north side of the bay. The trail is rugged so wear
sturdy flip-flops.

Culebrita Lighthouse
No visit is complete without a hike to the lighthouse since you get spectacular views of the
surrounding reefs and westward to Culebra and Puerto Rico, southward to Vieques, and
eastward to St Thomas. It was built by the Spanish from 1882-1886. It was destroyed in 1932 by
a hurricane, rebuilt, then extinguished during much of WWII for security measures, returned to
service in 1944, automated in 1948, then the building was finally closed in 1959. There has been
some attempt to stabilize the crumbling lighthouse walls, but be cautious if you explore the
rooms. Don’t try to go up the lighthouse tower as the spiral iron staircase looks ready to
collapse.

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It’s a 15 to 20-minute hike to the lighthouse. Bring a bottle of water and a camera. The
trailhead is at the center of the beach. Go 100 yards, then turn right at the signpost (if you
continue straight you come to the rugged, windswept “Treasure Beach”). Continue 600 yards
on relatively flat terrain for about 10 minutes. The turnoff uphill towards the lighthouse is NOT
marked, but it’s just past the pond on your right (if you miss the turn off, you’ll come to “South
Beach” in a couple minutes where you can cool off). It’s a 600-yard climb to the top of the 305-
foot hill. The upper section of trail has been significantly improved in the past year.

Natural Pools

Dinghy Landing

Lighthouse

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19th Century Spanish lighthouse overlooking Bahia de Tortuga, Culebrita

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Vieques

Twenty-one miles long and three to four miles wide, many cruisers consider the bays, coves,
and beaches of this island the best of all Virgin Island anchorages. Due to its recent history as a
U.S. bombing practice site, the island has been untouched by developers.
The 8,000 residents are concentrated in the middle of the island, as unexploded ordnance is still
being cleared from the old ranges on the eastern and western ends, and some tempting
anchorages are still out of bounds due to the risk of dropping your anchor on top of a rusty
bomb.
The island is also home to a large herd of roaming goats, a few scrawny cattle, and wild paso
fino horses. Many locals travel by horseback.

Bahia de la Chiva
Ensenada Sun Bay
Esperanza

CAUTIONS:
• This guide does not describe the north shore of Vieques as there are no harbors
recommended as viable overnight anchorages.
• This guide does not describe the west shore of Vieques. There is a potential day stop
anchorage just south of Punta Arenas in settled conditions.
• Passing around the west shore of Vieques, one must be aware of the shoals (Escolla de
Arenas) that extend over 3 nm northwest from the tip of Vieques at Punta Arenas.
• Passing along the north shore of Vieques, one must be aware of the U.S. Navy pier that
extends over 1 nm north from the island. There are also several unmarked reefs just to
the east of the pier.

OFF-LIMITS:
• The U.S. Navy is still clearing ordinance from several bays in eastern Vieques that as a
result are OFF-LIMITS to WAYPOINTS charterers.
o Bahia Salina del Sur (southeast end of Vieques)
o Bahia Icacos and Bahia Salinas (northeast end of Vieques)
o Ensenada Honda – east of Cayo Jalova (southeast shore of Vieques). Given the
numerous unmarked reefs at the entrance to Ensenada Honda and further in the
bay, the entire bay of Ensenada Honda is OFF-LIMITS.

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Passage to Vieques
Depending on whether you start from Culebra or Culebrita, it’s an 11 nm to 13 nm trip to the
eastern tip of Vieques at Punta Este with about 9.4 nm in open ocean. This is usually a
wonderful beam reach as long as winds stay below 20 knots. Reef early!
➢ When passing around the eastern tip of Vieques at Punta Este, stay at least ½ mile to 1
mile offshore as the seas quickly pile up in the shallow waters off this point, particularly
with an opposing tide flowing against the Equatorial current and the predominantly
easterly wind-driven swells.
➢ From Punta Este, it is a very pleasant downwind sail along the south shore of Vieques.

CAUTIONS:
➢ There are no navigational buoys whatsoever on the south shore. Stay at least ¾ mile
offshore to avoid the several unmarked and difficult to see off-lying reefs.
➢ Three unmarked reefs to pay particular attention to are:
▪ Near Bahia Salina del Sur – large reef just west of Cayo Conejo.
▪ Near Ensenada Honda – several reefs at the entrance to the bay, plus smaller
reefs within the bay.
▪ Near Bahia de la Chiva – large reef just south of Punta Conejo.
• There are numerous floating balls marking fish traps on the south shore – these tend to
be about ½-mile offshore in about 60 feet of water. Keep a lookout to avoid tangling in
them.

There are three recommended anchorages on the south shore:

• Bahia de la Chiva – 7.4 nm from Punta Este and 6.2 nm from Esperanza
• Ensenada Sun Bay – 12 nm from Punta Este and 1.6 nm from Esperanza
• Puerto Real, Esperanza – 13 nm from Punta Este

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Esperanza
The town of Esperanza has a pleasantly Spanish vibe, with a decent anchorage, a pretty tree-
lined promenade, the “Malecon”, along the waterfront and several restaurants serving up
excellent local seafood. There is often live music on Friday to Sunday evenings. The Vieques
Conservations & Historical Trust is located next door to Duffy’s restaurant.
The harbor, Puerto Real, should be entered from the south with Cayo Real to your starboard.
The anchorage is well-protected except if there is a south swell.
OFF LIMITS:
➢ Do not pass between Cayo Real and Punta de Tierra.
➢ Do not to take your boat through the passage between the north of Cayo Real and the
town dock (this is OK with your dinghy).

There are many boats on private moorings, so I find it best to anchor just west of the mooring
field in about 20 feet of depth. The bottom contains lots of sea grass so lay out at least 5:1
scope (preferably 6:1 or 7:1 scope) and back down on the anchor to make sure it’s set before
heading ashore.
There are ~6 private moorings available for rent for ~$25. Contact Glen Kranig (340-227-4288)
to arrange. He's also a wealth of local knowledge.
CAUTIONS:
➢ LOCK YOUR DINGHY and FUEL TANK when tying to the dinghy dock.
➢ Don’t leave valuables unattended as petty theft is a problem in Vieques.
➢ The dinghy dock is the smaller of the two docks. Do not tie up to the large commercial
dock.

On Vieques, the Green Store in Esperanza has some basic provisions and ice. It’s a ⅓-mile walk
northward from the dinghy dock on Rt 997.
• Lunch/Dinner: Duffy’s (787-741-7600) – good food, good prices!
Banana’s (787-718-6349, 7 days, 11am – 10 pm)
• Dinner: El Quenepo (787-741-1215, Tu-Sa 5:30-9:30 pm) – fine dining,
reservations a must.
El Blok (787-741-6020, W-Su, 6-10 pm)

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Anchorage
Off Limits
Area

Not for Navigation

Dinghy Dock

Off Limits
Area

Not for Navigation

Puerto Real Harbor at Esperanza, Vieques

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Bio Bay Tour

The highlight of a visit to Esperanza is a night time trip to nearby Mosquito Bay, containing the
highest degree of bioluminescence in the world. The huge concentrations of micro-organisms
give off an eerie glow when disturbed by movement in the water. The best time to visit is when
there is no moon light – ideally at the New Moon, but at least during the two-week window
from 3 days after the Full Moon to 3 days after the New Moon. The tours are not conducted on
the day before, during and after the Full Moon.
There are several tour operators. I highly recommend using a tour operator that takes a smaller
group size of 10 persons with glass bottom kayaks, instead of the 40 person tours. We had a
wonderful experience with Melaya’s Tour (787-222-7055, www.melayastours.net/vieques, $60
per-person, pickup near the Green Store).

Bioluminescent Mosquito Bay

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Ensenada Sun Bay

This is a good anchorage if winds are north of SE. It becomes rolly with a south swell. The
entrance is wide - watch for rocks off the eastern point of the bay and the 6’ shallow spot near
the anchorage. Anchor in the northeast corner just outside the swim buoy area. The free
moorings are long gone.
There is a 1-mile long, white crescent beach that is the major public beach on Vieques so it can
become very crowded on the holidays and some weekends. During the week, it’s very quiet.

Not for Navigation

Mosquito Bay

Esperanza

Ensenada Sun Bay

Not for Navigation

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Bahia de la Chiva
The beach at Bahia de la Chiva, (code named Blue Beach by the U.S Navy when they conducted
training exercises there) has been rated #8 in the world by Conde Nast magazine, and the bay
provides two good anchorages:
#1 – Northwest of Isla Chiva. The entrance to #1 anchorage is straight-forward. From
seaward, head almost north keeping Isla Chiva to starboard. Anchor in 12-15 feet.
#2 – East of Isla Chiva, right under Punta Conejo. From seaward, keep the unmarked
submerged reef off Punta Conejo to starboard and Isla Chiva to port. With good overhead
light this lighter colored reef is visible though it does not always break. Anchor in 12-15 feet.
I find this the more settled of the two anchorages.
Both anchorages have sea grass with spots of clear sand. Try to set the anchor in clear sand.

We prefer to anchor the dinghy in the shallows marked on the diagram. These shallows usually
have the warmest water you’ll find in the SVI, USVI, and BVI at any time of year!

Dinghy Anchorage

Off-Limits

1
2
Off-Limits

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CAUTIONS:
➢ Do not pass between Isla Chiva and Vieques. There is only enough water to pass
through with a dinghy.
➢ Do not go ashore at Isla Chiva. The U.S. Navy is still clearing ordinance from this island,
and warning signs are posted.

Off-Limits

Anchorage
Anchorage

Off-Limits

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