LITTLE MADEMOISELLE COAT

A creation from Mani Mina Studio!

A word about this coat…

Making this coat doesn’t require any special sewing skills. You basically need to 2
coat pieces, the outer coat and the lining coat that you will stitch together and
reverse inside out. You will get a fully lined coat that is comfy and so stylish!!
If you want to make a Spring/Summer coat, you can make it from one layer of
fleece or boiled wool and skip the coat lining steps taught in this tutorial.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS NEEDED

For the OUTER coat piece:
- ALL SIZES: 1 yard of warm material: fleece, wool, boiled wool.
For the INNER coat piece:
- ALL SIZES: 1 yard of cotton or fleece.
If you want to make a cozy little coat, I advice to use fleece as lining
material.
- Scissors / zigzag scissors
- Matching threads
- Measuring tape
- Pins- 2 buttons, 1 big button for the front, one smaller for the inner
closure
- erasable pencil
There are a few tips to help you to assemble your pattern:

- THE RIGHT DIMENSIONS: Place your pattern scale at a 100% and

after printing the pattern; check that the 1-INCH bar on the pattern is
exactly 1 inch.
- THE RIGHT ORDER: Place the pages together by making each letter
on a page match the next page’s letter, for example, the letter A at
the bottom of page 1 should match the letter A of the top edge of page
2.
- WHITE MARGINS? Depending on the printer you use, sometimes a
white margin will appear on the edges of the paper and erase small
parts of the lines. In that case, take a pen and a ruler and draw the
missing part in between two edges of lines.

I CUTTING OUT THE COAT PIECES….

1 2
Photo 1: 2 outer FRONT pieces cut out from wool
Photo 2: 2 lining FRONT pieces cut out from fleece

3 4
Photo 3: 2 SLEEVES cut out from wool
Photo 4: 2 SLEEVES cut out from fleece
 1 2
Photo 1: BACK piece cut out from wool
Photo 2: Back piece cut out from fleece
In total, you have 4 FRONT Pieces, 4 sleeves and 2 BACK pieces.

II ASSEMBLING THE COAT PIECES….

1 2
1: Place the outer BACK piece in front of you, right side facing you.
Place one of the outer FRONT pieces on the back piece RIGHT sides
together at the shoulder edge as shown on the photo 2.
Stitch the back + front piece at the shoulder seam !” away from the
edge.
Place the other outer FRONT piece on the back piece right sides
together and stitch it like you did with the first front piece.

1 2
1: Lay flat the coat.
2: Reverse the coat so that the right sides are facing you.
 1 2
We are going to assemble the sleeves to the coat.
1: Lay flat the coat and prepare to work on the armhole curve (where
my finger shows).
2: The sleeve top edge is more curved on one side (where my finger
shows). This curved area will have to match the Front piece armhole
curve. Logically the rest of the sleeve edge will align with the back
piece armhole curve.

1 2

3 4
1: I start to place the front curve of the sleeve on top of the front
part of the armhole curve, right sides together.
2: I pin the 2 pieces together all along the armhole curve.
3: Now that the sleeve is fully pinned to the coat front and back parts,
I stitch the armhole curve with !” seam allowance.
4: I repeat the same process with the other sleeve, attaching it to the
other armhole curve. I stitch it the same way I did with the first
sleeve. Lay flat your coat and press all the seams open.

1 2

3 4
1: Align one of the sleeve bottom edges and the coat side edges, RIGHT
sides of the coat together.
Make sure the 2 armhole seams are matching when aligned.
2: Pin the two layers starting from the sleeve edges all the way down
until the coat bottom edge.
3: Stitch the pinned edge from the sleeve bottom to the coat bottom
1/4” away from the edge as shown on the drawing.. Repeat the exact
same process with the other sleeve.
4. Reverse your coat inside out.

1 2
1 and 2: Nip the seam allowances near the intersection of the shoulder
seams and the side seams. Press the seams open.
Now you need to repeat the same process with the fleece pieces. Then
you will have 2 separate coats, one outer coat and one lining coat.

1 2

3 4
1: Keep your outer coat reversed inside out and lay it flat. Take the
coat lining and place it right sides together on top of the outer coat.
2: Make sure both coats side seams are matching.
3: When the 2 coats are on top of each other’s, it should look like the
photo 3.
4: Pin the 2 layers all round the edge lines.

1 2
1: When you pin the open seams together, make sure they are pin
similarly to the photo 1 and 2.
 1 2

3 4
1: This drawing shows the areas that need to be stitched. On the left
side, at the bottom edge of the front, 2.5” are left unstitched so you
can reverse the coat inside out later.
2: Start stitching from the bottom edge of one of the fronts.
3: Stitch slowly on the curved areas of the collar.
4: As explained above, leave 2.5” open at the bottom of one of the
fronts before finishing your stitch.

1 2
1: Trim all the corners.
2: Cut the curved areas of the collar with a pair of zigzag scissors.
 1 2

3 4
1: Turn the cut inside out through the 2.5” opening.
2: Use a pin to turn the angles out.
3: Turn the lining sleeves inside the outer coat sleeve to make them
match.
4: Press your coat.

1
1: Roll-hem toward in the coat 2.5” opening, about !”, the same way as
the seam allowance so that after rolling hem the opening, the bottom
edge of the coat looks neat and straight.
2: Pin the opening.
Now you have 2 OPTIONS:
- Either you stitch the opening by hand or you stitch the edge of the
seam all round, 1/8” away from the edge and you include in your stitch
the opening of the coat.
If you stitch the edge seam of the coat, it will look like this:

Let’s work on the sleeves now:

1 2

3 4
1: Take one of the sleeves and roll hem the bottom edge !” toward in.
2: Pin the folded sleeve bottom all around.
3: Roll hem the same way and !” toward in the lining sleeve.
4. Make the folded lining sleeve match the folded outer coat sleeve. Pin
the 2 layers together all around.
Repeat the same process with the other sleeve. Now your sleeves are
finished.

1 2

3 4
1: Lay flat your coat and decide the area where you want to place the
front button. Mine is placed "” away from the collar edge and "” away
from the side edge. Make your buttonhole depending on the size of your
front button.
2: Using a washable marker, mark where the button will be stitched
through the buttonhole.
3: Create the second buttonhole on the angle of the second front piece
as shown on photo 3 and 4. I advice you to use a smaller and thin
button.
4: Place the front button where you marked.
 1 2

3 4
1: Stitch the first button by hand.
2: Mark with an erasable pencil the place where you should stitch the
smaller inside button. Stitch the inner button by hand.
3: Close up the buttons to check if the button places are correct.
4: You are done…
Thank you for making this coat with me!!
 © 2009 Copyright Ma niM ina Studio

The little mademoiselle coat pattern is protected by copyright

laws and cannot be used to produce items that will be sold.

Thank you for respecting that.

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Contact info:
amiliasheti@yahoo.fr

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