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Review Article

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15, 185--193

Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil


M. Shahinuzzaman, Zahira Yaakob, PhD, & M. Moniruzzaman
Department of Chemical and Process Engineering, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, 43600 UKM Bangi, Selangor, Malaysia

Summary Soap is the most useful things which we use our everyday life in various cleansing
and cosmetics purposes. Jatropha oil is nonedible oil which has more benefits to soap
making. It has also cosmetics and medicinal properties. But the presence of toxic
Phorbol esters in Jatropha oil is the main constrains to use it. So it is necessary to
search a more suitable method for detoxifying the Jatropha oil before the use as the
main ingredient of soap production. This review implies a more suitable method for
removing phorbol esters from Jatropha oil. Several parameters such as the % yield of
pure Jatropha oil soap, TFM value of soap, total alkali content, free caustic alkalinity
content, pH, the antimicrobial activity, and CMC value of general soap should be
taken into consideration for soap from detoxified Jatropha oil.
Keywords: cosmetic dermatology, skin disease, antimicrobial activity, phorbol ester,
soap making, detoxification

care.4–6 The oil also has components in hair condition-


Introduction
ers.7
Soaps are one of the major elements which we use in Jatropha oil is nonedible due to a toxic ingredient
our everyday life. Basically soaps are the sodium and called phorbol ester.8–10 Phorbol esters have been
potassium salts of higher fatty acids, such as oleic, found to be responsible for purgative, skin-irritant
stearic, lauric, and palmitic acids.1 These fatty acids effects and tumor promotion as they stimulate protein
are responsible for foaming and cleansing actions of kinase which is involved in signal transduction and
soaps. Soaps are generally produced using edible oils, developmental processes of most cells and tissues.11,12
that is, palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, groundnut So, if we promote the suitable method for removing
oil. However, usages of nonedible oils have advantages; phorbol esters from Jatropha oil and can improve
it can significantly reduce the consumption of edible methods for using medicinal properties of Jatropha oil,
oils and ultimately the dependence on edible oils for it is so beneficent for us. There have several methods
soap manufacturing. Among the known nonedible oils, for removing phorbol ester. Some of them are heat
Jatropha oil can be used for soap making. Mostly Jat- treatment, gamma irradiation, adsorption, alkaline
ropha soap is known for its medicinal properties and hydrolysis, and solvent extraction.13,14 Alongside
sensitivity. It is used for the remedy of various skin dis- them, adsorption process is more preferable to remove
eases.2,3 The 36% linoleic acid (C18:2) content in Jat- phorbol esters from Jatropha seed oil, and by this pro-
ropha oil makes it an interesting candidate for skin cess, phorbol esters removal maximum up to
99.50%.15

Correspondence: M. Shahinuzzaman, Department of Chemical and Process


Extraction of Jatropha oil
Engineering, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, 43600 UKM Bangi, Selangor,
Malaysia. E-mail: shahinchmiu@gmail.com Dry seed of Jatropha curcas contains up to 60% of oil.16
Accepted for publication December 18, 2015 However, the maximum amount of oil that can be

© 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. 185


Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

extracted from a given sample of the seeds depends on Table 2 General compositions of the different crude Jatropha oil
the method of extraction and quality of the feedstock. sample
Two main methods of extracting the oil have been
Solvent
identified. They are the chemical extraction method Parameters extracted Cold pressed Nontoxic
using solvent extraction with n-hexane and the
mechanical extraction method using either a manual Phorbol esters (mg/g) 3.10 3.77 N.D.
ram-press or an engine-driven expeller.17,18 It is easier Water (ppm) 197 731 735
Free fatty acids (% as C18:1) 6.87 5.34 3.00
to use a simple mechanical ram-press because of its Elements (ppm)
availability. For the operation, at first the brown ripe P 87.9 35.5 54.9
Jatropha fruits are collected and dried at sun. Then, Ca 51.1 21.6 32.8
husks are removed to separate seeds from the fruit. Mg 23.9 23.0 N.D.
K 15.3 28.7 6.57
Then, seed kernels are opened by removing the black Na 13.3 6.44 1.48
seed shells. These shelled seed kernels are used to Fe 2.5
press, and oil is extracted and collected. From 32 kg of Fatty acid composition (%w:w)
C14:0 0.1 0.1 0.2
unshelled seeds, it is found about 20/22 kg of shelled
C16:0 15.8 15.3 12
fruit. After the milling process, it yields about 6/10 kg C16:1 0.9 0.9 0.6
oil from these shelled fruit. This represents about C17:0 0.1 0.1 0.1
21.5–31.25% of crude oil by weight per kg of the C18:0 6.7 6.8 6.4
C18:1 42.1 42.0 36.7
unshelled dry weight of the J. curcas seed.
C18:2 34.1 34.4 43.5
C18:3 0.2 0.2 0.1
C20:0 0.0 0.1 0.1
Composition of Jatropha seed oil C20:1 1.8 1.8 –
C22:0 0.6 – –
The oil content from Malaysian Jatropha seed kernels
Total saturated 22.8 22.3 18.8
by solvent extraction was 63.16%.3 High oil content of Total mono-unsaturated 44.9 43.1 37.5
Jatropha Curcas indicated that it is agreeable as nonedi- Total poly-unsaturated 34.3 34.6 43.7
ble vegetable oil feedstock in oleo-chemical industries.
It also contains dominant triacylglycerol lipid specie
(88.2%) and an appreciable percentage of linoleic acid the production of shampoo and liquid soap.3 The phy-
(47.3%). The percentage of oil and fatty acid composi- siochemical character of Jatropha curcas seed oil in
tion of Jatropha curcas is shown in Tables 1 and 2.19,20 Malaysia and Nigeria are given in Table 3.22
There are some physicochemical characters such as
iodine value, acid value, and saponification value by
which the industrial value of a particular fat or oil is Market of Jatropha soap
determined. High iodine value indicates the utilization In West Africa, Zambia, Nigeria, Tanzania, and Zim-
of oil in soap and shampoo production.21 Acid value babwe, Jatropha soap is used commercially as soft
indicates the extent of rancidity of the stored oil or fat laundry soap. Portugal also use Jatropha oil for soap
sample, thereby deciding on its suitability for cosmetic production.23 Oil extraction is mainly oriented toward
products. The greater the saponification value informed quality soap production which has a high market
the oil is normal triglyceride, and it is very useful for demand due to its known dermatological and cosmetics
properties. It also has potentials for the production of
Table 1 Percentage of oil composition of Jatropha curcas oil

Composition Percentage
Table 3 Physicochemical characters of Malaysian Jatropha curcas
and Nigeria Jatropha curcas L seed oil
Oil 66.4
Unsaponifiable 3.8
Values
Hydrocarbons 4.8
Triacycerols 88.2
Free fatty acid 3.4 Parameter Malaysia Nigeria
Diacylglycerols 2.5
Sterols 2.2 Iodine value (mg/g) 135.85  1.44 105.20  0.70
Monoacylglycerols 1.7 Acid value (mg KOH/g) 1.50  0.07 3.50  0.10
Polar lipids 2.0 Saponification value (mg/g) 208.50  0.47 198.85  1.40

186 © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.


Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

medications and biological insecticides (www.ghajapro- characteristics and used with various skin diseases and
ject.net). In other countries such as Tanzania, Jatropha sensitivity to general soap.28 The Jatropha oil has pos-
activities also show positive economic results, as far as sible interest for skin care due to the presence of 36%
soap making is concerned. Specially, the medicinal linoleic acid content.4,5The Jatropha oil has a strong
properties of the soap make it interesting for the rural cathartic properties, and it is used for reducing the
population. The “KAKUTE project” of Tanzania was rheumatic pain and for skin diseases.21 It has bacterici-
able to recognize the Jatropha soap as the medicinal dal and antifungal properties with skin care.29 It is
soap (www.jatrophabiodiesel.org). also used to treat eczema 30 and for hair conditioning,7
soap industry, and cosmetics.31
Benefits of Jatropha soap
Problem associated with soap from Jatropha
Jatropha curcas is the scientific name of physic nut. The
oil
genus name Jatropha comes from the Greek word
jatr0 os that means doctor and troph0 e that means food, Jatropha soap has many medicinal and cosmetic prop-
which implies medicinal uses.24 Jatropha oil and Jat- erties that mean it has much economic value as a
ropha soap have many medicinal and cosmetics prop- nonedible oil product. It is possible to produce quality
erties. The oil-rich seeds and seed oil are used as soaps from Jatropha oil for laundry, bathing, and gen-
purgative and to expel internal parasites, although eral cleaning purposes, still at minimizing cost of pro-
their application often leads to strong irritation of the duction. But Jatropha oil contains some toxic
gastro-intestinal tract or even poisoning. The oil is also compounds which may cause some adverse effects.32
applied internally and externally as an abortifacient, The Jatropha seed kernel contains mainly five
and externally as a rubefacient to treat rheumatic con- (Table 4) numbers of several toxic and antinutritional
ditions and a variety of skin infections. The oil is used factors. They are trypsin inhibitors, lectins, saponins,
as an ingredient of hair conditioners. The latex has a phytate, and phorbol esters. They might cause or at
widespread reputation for healing wounds, as a hemo- least prolong the adverse effects in the long-term con-
static and for curing skin problems; it is applied exter- tact. Phorbol ester is the main toxic component present
nally to treat infected wounds, ulcers, ringworm, in Jatropha curcas oil which affects the short-term con-
eczema, dermatomycosis, scabies, and sarcoptic mange tact.33–36
in sheep and goats.25
The glycerin that is a by-product of biodiesel and
Toxicity of phorbol esters
bio-jet fuel can be used to make soap, and soap can be
made from Jatropha oil itself. In both cases, the process As phorbol ester is the main toxic compound of Jat-
produces a soft, durable soap and is a simple one, well ropha oil that is responsible for purgative, skin-irritant
adapted to household or small-scale industrial activ- effects 37 and also tumor promotion as they stimulate
ity.24 protein kinase C which is involved in signal transduc-
The high viscosity of Jatropha oil facilitates profitable tion and developmental processes of cells and tis-
soap making than other oils.26 Jatropha oil is also rich sues.11,12 It may also cause cancer. Ingestion of plants
in palmitic acid with greater hydrophobicity which from the Euphorbiaceae and Thymelaeaceae families
makes soft, durable soap. that biosynthesis of verbal-type diterpene esters causes
Whereas Jatropha soap contain greater glycerin, it several symptoms of toxicity in livestock.7 The toxicity
has good foaming properties and makes white soap of Jatropha seeds could be attributed to the presence of
with positive impact on the skin.27 This soap is famil- phorbol esters in toxic varieties. Due to the presence of
iar in many countries for its cosmetics and medicinal lectins, it appears hemorrhagic spot,8 and Trypsin inhi-

Table 4 Some toxic factors in Jatrophacurcas seed meal

Phorbol esters Lectin (mg meal/ Trypsin Phytate Saponins (% diosgenin


Toxic factors? (mg/g kernel) mL assay) (mg/g meal) (% in meal) equivalent)

Variety Cape verde 2.70 102 21.3 9.4 2.6


Nicaragua 2.17 102 21.1 10.1 2.0
Nontoxic Mexico 0.11 51 26.5 8.9 3.4

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Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

bitors produce adverse effects in monogastrics.9 It has to reduction and autoxidation. MnO2 and CrO3 oxi-
also been reported that humans who had accidentally dized are the primary alcohol group at C20 to the alde-
consumed seeds showed signs of giddiness, vomiting, hyde.44
and diarrhea.16,33
Removal of phorbol from oil
Characteristic of phorbol esters
Methods
The word phorbol refers to a group of compounds
which is known as tigliance. It is closely related to Most of the toxic compounds of Jatropha oil (lectin,
diterpenes families with its polycyclic structure trypsin inhibitors, etc.) are heat and chemical sensitive
(Fig. 1).9,38–40 Its chemical formula is C20H28O6, and except phorbol esters. The phorbol esters are heat resis-
molar mass: 364.44 g/mol. Phorbol esters in Jatropha tant and even at 160 °C. So heat treatment is not
oil have six chemical isomeric forms of structures37 applicable to detoxify Jatropha seed oil.7 So it needs to
where all compounds possess the same moiety. 12- establish a suitable method for removing phorbol esters
deoxy-16-hydroxyphorbol is the main structure of from Jatropha, as though it can be used to minimize
phorbol ester. Different side chains R1 and R2 with the consumption of edible oil. Till now, a good number
main structure form six different isomers. All the phor- of reports are available about detoxification of phorbol
bol esters structures are commonly named as DHPB. ester substances from Jatropha oil.15,45–48
Phorbol esters are in white crystals or powders form In the traditional oil refinery process, de-acidification
when isolated from oil. But it form brittle foams when and bleaching steps can remove up to 55% of phorbol
isolated by fractionation of oil from volatile organic sol- esters in seed oil of Jatropha curcas. But degumming and
vents, which change to amorphous and soften below odor removing steps are not able to remove phorbol
1000c temperature. Melting point of anhydrous phor- esters.46 Chemical treatments, that is, NaHCO3, ethanol
bol is of 250–251 °C. But the crystallized phorbol from extraction, physical treatment as heat treatment, ozona-
methanol and ethanol retains solvent molecules that tion, and the gamma irradiation, can remove phorbol
tenaciously have sharp melting points in the region of esters from Jatropha oil. It is possible to remove 44% of
230–240 °C.41 phorbol esters from Jatropha oil with the treatment of
Phorbol esters are very sensitive to alkali, acid, ele- NaHCO3, but if NaHCO3 moistening was combined with
vated temperature and also light and atmospheric oxy- the ozone treatment, it can remove up to 75%. The com-
gen. Solid TPA appears to be stable in the dark at bination of NaHCO3 with heat treatment removes 56%,
20 °C. It slowly decomposes at 4 °C in the dark and but when a water wash is added to the combination, it
more extensively decomposes at 25 °C in daylight removes much more Phorbol esters, that is, 76%.45
within 3 months. The TPA solution in dimethyl sulfox- About 71.35% of phorbol esters were successfully
ide may be kept at 20 °C in dark for about 6 months removed by gamma irradiation at absorption dose of
and solution in ethanol at 4 °C under nitrogen for 50 kGy. But this method need long time, high tempera-
5 months. The persistent component that have been ture, and high dose of gamma irradiation.45,47 Extrac-
identified as main product which is produced by oxida- tion of phorbol esters using 80–90% aqueous ethanol or
tion at double bonds of TPA.41–43 methanol followed by the inactivation of lectins by heat
Phorbol esters produce esters and ethers by reducing treatment (moisture 66%, 121 °C for 30 min) might
Fehling’s and Tollen regents. The C5 carbonyl groups hold potential technique for converting toxic Jatropha
of phorbol esters show weak activity in the reaction meal to a high-quality protein source for livestock feed.
with carbonyl agents. The double bonds are subjected But all these processes are time-consuming and not

Figure 1 Molecular structure of Phorbol, TPA, and 12-deoxy-16-hydroxy phorbol.

188 © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.


Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

environment-friendly.15 By the use of fungal isolation Optimization of the two-time adsorption


process, about 97.8% of phorbol esters can be
Twenty-five millilitre seed oil from the one-time adsorp-
removed.48 Alongside them, adsorption process is more
tion was mixed with the most suitable adsorbent in a
preferable to remove phorbol esters from Jatropha seed
250-mL Erlenmeyer flask. To find the optimum condi-
oil. By this process, phorbol esters can be removed maxi-
tions of adsorption, the experiments were continued in
mum up to 99.50%. It means 0.02 mg/g phorbal
terms of the following factors:
remains in seed oil where the permissible limit is
0.09 mg/g. 2.70 mg/g phorbol esters is present in seed Amount of adsorbent: 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0 g.
oil of Jatropha toxic variety.15 Stirring time: 0, 15, 30, and 45 min.
After adsorption oil and adsorbent were separated by
Detoxification by adsorption process filtration with filter paper, the amount of phorbol esters
Punsuvon and Nokkaew studied detoxification of phor- was analyzed by HPLC. The 2nd adsorption showed
bol esters. They used 25 mL of seed oil mixed with the optimum time 15 min, 0.8% (w/v) bentonite 200,
0.8 g of each activated carbon, bentonite 150, ben- 32 °C temperature, and 100 rpm stirring rate are the
tonite 200, chitin, and chitosan adsorbent into a 250- suitable condition. By this condition, 99.50% phorbol
mL Erlenmeyer flask. Adsorption was carried out at esters were removed.
room temperature. Stirring rate and time were
200 rpm and 45 min, respectively. After adsorption Soap production process
seed oil and adsorbent were separated by filtration,
content of phorbol esters was analyzed by HPLC to The general soap production method is divided into the
select the best adsorbent. In this study, they found that following major steps.49,50
bentonite 200 is the suitable adsorbent.  Mixing the oil/fat and alkali properly, called “prov-
ing,”
Optimization of the one-time adsorption  “Boiling down”—repulsion of extra water and
25 mL seed oil was mixed with the most suitable checking for “doneness,”
adsorbent in a 250-mL Erlenmeyer flask. To find the  Treating with salt for removing water, impurities,
optimum conditions of adsorption, the experiments and glycerin, this process is called “graining” which
were continued in terms of the following factors: makes solid washing soaps with good quality,
 Adding colorants and perfumes,
Amount of adsorbent: 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4,  Pouring the lay into molds,
and 2.0 g.  Breaking the “green” soap out of the mold and
Stirring time: 15, 30, 45, 60, 120, and 180 min. splitting it into finished sizes, and
Temperature: 35, 45, 65, 85, and 120 °C.  Drying and airing the “green” soap.
Stirring rate: 0, 100, 150, 200, 250, and 300 rpm.
After adsorption oil and adsorbent were separated by
Concise chemistry of soap making
filtration with filter paper, the amount of phorbol esters
was analyzed by HPLC. In this step, they found the Chemical reactions in soap making/saponification
adsorption time 15 min, 3.2% (w/v) bentonite 200, Saponification is the main reaction of soap making
32 °C temperature, and 100 rpm stirring rate are the process. In this reaction, esters are broken down into
suitable condition. By this condition, 98.00% phorbol alcohols and salts of carboxylic acids (Fig. 2). The
esters were removed. word “saponification” comes from the Latin word

O
R
O HO
O R
O + 3 N aO H 3 R + OH
O O HO
ONa
R
O S oap G ly c e ro l
T rig ly c e rid e

Figure 2 Soap making (saponification) reaction. Here, R is the long chain hydrocarbon.

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Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

“saponins” which means soap. Saponification is also Stamping


widely used in more general terms to refer alkaline Stamping and trademarking are important for soap
hydrolysis of any type of esters. marketing.37 Now, the special stamp and trademarks
The overall reaction of triacylglycerol saponification are used on the soap bars which may be either electri-
is carried out in two steps. Three fatty acid molecules cally or manually. In this purposes, wooden or plastic
and glycerol are produced by the hydrolysis of ester stamp and stamp box are used.
linkages in first step:
Drying
Fat or oil þ 3H2 O3 ! 3fatty acids þ glycerol The obtained soaps are normally having moisture
content. So for carefully defined and controlled level,
The second step involves an acid–base reaction especially for toilet soap bars the water content
where the fatty acid molecules and a base (usually needs to reduce and mainly drying is required in this
NaOH) are subjected to produce water and salts: purpose. It needs to be aired for hours or up to
about several of days to reduce the moisture content
3fatty acids þ 3NaOH ! 3fatty acid salts þ 3H2 O in the case of dry hard soap that takes longer to use
up.
There are two types of operation involved in soap
making. One is continuous operation which is used for Packaging
industrial production and another is batch operation At last, the final products are packed in cartons, and
for small-scale production. Both operations involve the soaps are wrapped. For this purpose, nice paper
three different processes: cold process, semi- and clean polythene can be used which will add
boiled or hot process, and fully boiled process. In cold greatly to its sales value. But it should be noted that
process, the reaction takes place substantially at room the cost of packaging material makes impact on the
temperature; in hot process, the reaction takes place at production cost. Hence, it is most important for a soap
near boiling point; and in the fully boiled process, the producer to reduce the packaging cost in order to con-
reactants are boiled at least once and the glycerol trol selling price for rational profit or gain.
recovered. Among these processes, simple cold process
is common and widely applicable (http://www.made- Quality determination
how.com/knowledge/Soap.html).
pH level test
Simple cold process of soap making
For each soap formulation, 200 g/dm NaOH solution is The pH level of each soap checked on the pH meter.
added directly with the fat/oil in the ratio 1:1 (v/v) into
a stainless steel container. The fats/oil is warmed gently Reaction with hard water
and pours into the stainless steel soap making container
In this test, 1 g and 8 g of Ca(HCO3)2 were dissolved
followed by the alkali solution to form an intimate mix.
in each two beakers containing 1 L of distilled water
Then stir frequently for 10–15 min using wooden stir-
to make two different levels of hard water. 80 mL of
rer. The additives such as perfumes and other ingredi-
two different levels of hard water was measured in
ents can be added before pouring the saponification
100-mL beakers. Individual soap was dissolved in both
mixture into the molds. The mixture into dies turned
low and high levels of hard water and then observes
into soap, and the soap is allowed around 24 h to
the change.
harden by air-drying to obtain bar soap. These soap bars
can then be observed for color, lathering, texture, and Solubility in cold water
cleaning power. Overall, better products can be obtained  80 mL of tap water in 100-mL beakers.
by the combination and proper mixing of ingredients,  Cooled the water to 7 °C.
accuracy, and stirring at proper temperature.  Dissolved each soap in each beaker to observe the
solubility.
Cutting
Sometimes, the molded soaps spread-out from the Flame test
mold. This soap is split down in required sizes. The  Took a small piece of each soap.
soaps are cut using different designed and sized cutting  Burned each soap and checked its flame color.
machines which can be made locally.

190 © 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.


Medicinal and cosmetics soap production from Jatropha oil . M Shahinuzzaman et al.

Bacterial activity determination of soaps


Acknowledgment
For bacterial activity determination, sterile broth and
agar plates were prepared, and Staphylococcus aurous The authors thank the National University, Malaysia
ATCC 6538 were cultured in nutrient broth at 370 °C (UKM), for providing research facilities and fund. This
for 24 h. Here, 1% and 5% of four different soaps in study would not have been possible without the coop-
high-level hard water and, for the control Jergens, only eration of the staff and practical students of Biodiesel
5% soap solution were used. 10 mL of all solutions Center, UKM. This project is financed under grant
was taken to each test tube. Every 30 s, 0.5 mL of full DIP-2014-011.
culture was added to each tube and incubated each
tube for exact 10 min inside the biological safety hood References
(~220 °C). From the each reaction, 100 mL was taken
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adsorption method could be used the more suitable
intramolecular diester of 12-deoxy-16-hydroxyphorbol.
method for detoxification of toxic Jatropha oil. By this Cancer Res 1988; 48: 5800–4.
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In other words, 0.02 mg/g phorbol remained in seed oil toxic variety of Jatropha curcas using heat and chemi-
where the permissible limit is 0.09 mg/g, and the cal treatments, and preliminary nutritional evaluation
amount present in toxic variety is 2.70 mg/g. The qual- with rats. South Pacific J Nat Appl Sci 2003; 21:
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