UNIT3 BODY MEASUREMENTS Structure 3.0. Objectives 3.1 Introduction 3.2. Measurements 3.2.1 Guidelines for Measurement Taking 3.2.2 Process of Taking Measurement 3.3. Size Charts 3.3.1 Importance of Size Charts 3.4 Standard Body Measurements 3.5. Let Us Sum Up 3.6 Keywords 3.7 References and Suggested Readings 3.8 Check Your Progress: The Key 3.0 OBJECTIVES After going through this unit, you should be able to: Establish the importance of measurement taking. © Identify guidelines for measurement taking, © Identify body landmarks. Take body measurements with the help of style tape and measuring tape. 3.1__ INTRODUCTION We will discuss about the process of body measurements in this unit.All garments were custom made and measurements were taken using traditional tools till the 19* centaury, These include a measuring tape and perhaps a style tape to mark waistline. Measurements were taken along the contours of the body and by identifying the body landmarks carefully (usually by feeling bones beneath the skin), Till date this is the commonly used method for taking body measurements. Body landmarks are identified points on the body which help in taking of measurements. The unit will help you identify body landmarks and further guide measurement taking process. This unit will take two hours of study; and you may take more time if you put in more time doing all the activities given inside the text. To study this unit you will need your tools like measuring tape, L~ scale, pencil, measurement chart and a dress form. If you don’t have a dress form you can take measurements of your friend.Introduction o Pattern Making 32 Apart from the traditional method; Anthropometries was introduced which is a methodical and precise method of taking body measurements. The tools, which are used, are referred to as anthropometers (which is a standing tool to measure linears), calipers and calibrated measuring tapes to measure across and circular measurements. The method is very time consuming and accuracy depends on the expertise of personnel. Recent technologies involve use of 3D body scanning which produces a 360- degree view of object where the replica can be viewed, rotated and measured on the computer screen. 3 D scans analyze body postures and proportions very easily and is a time efficient and accurate method. Box below gives an interesting example from Levis who is curently using 3 D scanning, ‘The Intellifit Booth: a ‘sizing’ machine that works! The high-tech Intellifit booth that measures a customer’s size by 3-D scanning for a perfect fit has been on trial for almost a year. The booths. which companies such as Levi’s are using as an attraction in stores and at outdoor events, tell customers which sizes and styles of a particular brand are likely to fit them best. Three-dimensional body scanners are not new, but Intellifit’s innovation is to let shoppers get scanned fully clothed ina clear plastic booth using radio waves instead of laser which works only when the customer wears nothing or close fitting clothes. In a test with 150 Levi’s customers, the scanners accurately predicted best-fitting sizes 92 percent of the time. Customers apparently like the technology enough to stand in line to try it. Retailers that have used the scanners report that it boosts conversion by 20 to 50%. Women want the scanner to make their trips to the dressing room more efficient, whereas ‘men want to skip trying on clothes altogether. 3.2__ MEASUREMENTS Measurements are a very important element as the fit of any garment depends on the patterns used, which in tum are dependent on the measurements, Measurement taking is a scientific art that should be done with great accuracy and should be double-checked. In this unit you will study the guidelines for measurement taking; which will be followed by girth, vertical and horizontal measurements. Further sleeve, skirt and trouser measurements are being discussed, Before you continue it will be helpful to identify and locate body landmarks with the help of Figure 3ae. ito Shute Pos | i WR)” Un | } be be Front Back Figure 3.1: Body Landmarks Source: Google images 3.2.1 Guidelines for Taking Measurement You can leam how to take measurements on a dress form or alternatively on a person, You cannot take your own measurements but you can learn how to take body measurements on you friend if dress forms are not accessible, To get accurate results itis very important to follow the following guidelines: » 2 3) 4) 3) The person should wear close fitting garments, as loose fitting garments will not help you identify body landmarks and lead to incorrect measurements. The person should stand straight with the feet placed together; wrong posture can give incorrect measurements. Take all measurements closely but not too tight. All girth measurements should be taken with finger ease between the tape and the body. Itis best to take measurements with a mirror at the back; this will help you to see the back view also. This will ensure that your measuring tape is parallel to the floor. Also ensure that while taking vertical measurements the tape is perpendicular to the floor. All vertical measurements should be taken on one side only — usually the right side of the body. Body MeasurementsIntroduction o Pattern Making 34 6) It is best to follow a sequence and note down all the measurements given Table no. 3.7. Activity 1 Answer the following questions very briefly. ‘Compare your answer with the one given in the end of unit. Do you find anything that you had not thought of? 1) Why is it important to take correct body measurements? 2) List down the tools required for taking body measurements? 3) What are the critical points to be considered while taking body measurements? 3.2.2. Process of Taking Measurement Measurements are basically divided into three categories: © Girth measurements — Girth measurements include all round measurements of the body like bust circumference, waist circumference etc. © Horizontal measurements— Horizontal / width measurements are the across ‘measurements including across shoulder, shoulder length, © Length measurements — These are the vertical measurements of the body and include measurements like bodice length, skirt length, sleeve length ete Table 3.1: Girth Measurements 1. | Bust This measurement is taken around the fullest part of circumference} the bust, Ensure that tape is parallel to floor and does not slip down at the back. Measurement is taken by inserting one finger in to hold the tape and no extra ease is to be added.2. | Waist circumference The measurement is taken around natural waistline, which is normally one inch above the navel. Tie a cord / elastic around the waist and let it settle at the narrowest part, Measure completely around the waist. To identify waist level ask the subject to bond sideways. Feel the folds of flesh a chat in the waist level. Hip cireumference| Measure around the fullest part of the hips. Hips are approximately 21cm below the waistline for a UK Size 12 medium height figure. 4. | Neck girth Measure around the base of the neck over the collar bone. Ensure that you measure with a thick thread and not measuring tape. It is not possible to measure the neck girth accurately on the body. Hence, it is normally derived from the buch measure (This is %s RB). Source: Google images Girth Measurements Body MeasurementsIntroduction o Pattern Making 36 ‘Table3. 2: Horizontal Measurements 1. | Actoss back Back width measurement is measured from one armhole to other over the shoulder blades. Across back level is approximately 12em below nape for a UK Size 12 medium height figure 2. | Across chest Measure from armhole to armhole in the front, approximately 10ems below base of throat, This is an important measurement for tight fitting garments. 3. | Shoulder length | Measure from highest shoulder point {HSP} (where neck meets shoulder line) to the lowest shoulder point {LSP} (where shoulder ends and arm begins) i acromion bone at the end of the shoulder 4. | Across shoulder _| Measure from one lower shoulder point to other lower shoulder point on the back body. Take care that tape is passing over the back nape of the neck. 5. | Bust span Measure from one apex point to the other apex point. Figure 3.3: Horizontal Measurements ‘Table 3.3: Vertical Measurements 1. | Front length Measure from HSP till waistline and pass the tape over the bust as indicated in Figure 34. 2. | Centresfront length (CF) | Measure from base of the neck to natural waistline. This measurement is taken on the centre front bodyline, 3. | Centre-back length (CB) | Measure from nape of neck to waistline. This is measured on the centre back line of the body.4. Highest shoulder point Measure from HSP to the centre of the (HSP) to bust fullest part of the bust i.e, apex point 5. | Armhole depth’ Seye | Measure 2.5 em down from the armpit, depth transfer this point to centre back line. Next, measure on the centre back line from nape down CB, to the marked armhole level. Figure 3.4: Vertical measurements Source: Google images Table 3.4: Sleeve Measurements 1. | Sleeve Length Stand straight with arm resting on the hip level; measure from lower shoulder point (where the sleeve will be attached) to elbow to wrist bone, 2. | Under Arm Length | Measure from under arm point to wrist level. Armbole Girth Place the arm in a normal rest position and measure around armhole. Bicep Circumference Place your hand at the hip; measure around the bicep at its fullest part. Elbow Girth Measure around elbow with the arm bent. Wrist Circumference Identify the prominent wrist bone and measure just below around the wrist. Wrist measurement is important for tight sleeve garments. Hand Girth Measure around widest part of hand. Body MeasurementsIntroduction o Pattern Making 38, Figure 3.5: Sleeve measurements Table 5: Skirt measurements In addition to waist and hip measurement you are required to measure the following. Vertical measurements for lower garments are taken from the waist downwards to required loc: ‘ions. 1. High Hip level High hip level is marked approx. 10cms below waistline. This level is used to create low waisted skirts or trousers. Measure around the high hip level. Waist to Hip Level Identify the fullest part of hip and measure from waist to hip. Waist to knee length ‘Take the measurement from the waist to the knee level, Waist to ankle length, Measure from waistline to ankle level. Figure 3.6: Skirt MeasurementsTable 3.6: Trouser Measurements Body Measurements In addition to waist, hip and waist to hip measurement you are required to measure the following: 1. | Body rise/ Crotch Depth | Ask the subject being measured to sit on a hard surface; identify the waist level with a cord. Next take the measurement from waist level to the seating surface. 2. | Inside leg length Inseam is measured from crotch point to the anklebone. 3. | Outside leg length Measure the out seam from waist, over hips to anklebone. Take the measurement on the side seam. 4. | Round Knee At knee level measure around the knee cap (fullest part) 5, Round Ankle Measure around the ankle; just above the most prominent anklebone. Figure 3.7: Trouser Measurements Source: Google images Check Your Progress 2 1) List the set of measurements required for making a basic bodice block with asleeve.Introduction o Pattern Making 40 2) Explain the set of measurements required for making a skirt block. 3.3. SIZE CHARTS In the previous section, we discuss about the measurements. In this section we will discuss about size charts.. To get a size chart sample population is measured to get trustworthy data. Readymade garments are produced for masses that fall in different sizes .A sizing system is based on body measurements taken on a cross-section of population. The study of the sample population helps manufacturers to produce garments, which provide a good fit for large number of customers. An effective sizing system must cover the largest number of people with the smallest number of size The Indian ready to wear clothing section is based on the British standards. Size charts reflect the size ranges that the manufacturer regards as his market. The size charts show the measurement differences, or grade, between various sizes. Different countries use different size intervals. And for that matter two different manufactures in the same country might use different size charts, One manufacturer might provide 5 sizes in a range of kurta from 8 - 10 -12- 14-16 and the second manufacturer decides to provide only 3 sizes i.e. small, medium. and large. With the above information we can analyze that the first manufacturer is catering to high-end market and therefore needs to keep sizes, which are close to body structures and satisfy the consumer needs, Whereas the second manufacturer appears to cater to a mass market and cannot afford to keep five sizes, as keeping more stock increases his cost price. The second manufacturer knows that his consumer will buy from three sizes by compromising a little on the fit but they are more conscious of the price. It may also happen that two different manufacturers are providing same size range e.g, Small, Medium and Large but the fits are different, One reason could be that the measurements used are same but pattern making processes are different; ‘one with more ease and other with less ease. This may be disagreeable to people but it is a basic fact if two handwritings are different; two patterns from two pattern masters need not be identical. Different fits can also result due to lack of standardized size charts. In Indian men's wear market size charts are more or less standardized and you may find similar sizes and fits with different manufacturers. Whereas Indian women's wear industry is still not following standard size charts. Various government organizations are in the process of formulating size charts for the country and in the near future we will have Indian size charts being followed by all the manufacturers.Size intervals Size interval is the difference in measurements between two sizes. E.g. Size 10 round bust measurement is 84 cms and is 88 cms for size 12, the size interval is 4om. 3.3.1 Importance of Size Charts Proper sizing is very important to the ready-to-wear garment industry because of following reasons: © Itallows the manufacturer to produce garments, which can fit the maximum number of people. * This helps the retailer to stack a suitable range of sizes in each style and thus, cater to his market well. © With proper size ranges, the customer is at an advantage as this increases the chances of finding a garment in a size and style properly proportioned to the figure, thus reducing the alterations required. 3.4 STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS Table 3.8 provides an example of size charts used in UK. Notice carefully that in one size chart difference in bust measurement is 4 cm between sizes 8 to 14 and from size 16 onwards the difference is Sem. Women of medium height 160cm - 170cm (5ft 2 1/2in - Sft 61/2 in) The largest percentage of population falls into medium height range. Although the girth of women varies, the general trend is for the weight to increase with height. This feature is reflected in the size charts. Table 3. : Standard body measurements Size 8 [10] 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 [24 | 26 | 28 | 30 Round Bust | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 | 97 | 102 | 107 [112 | 117/122 | 127 | 132 Round Waist| 60 | 64 | 68 | 72 | 77 | 82 | 87 | 92 | 97 [102 | 107 | 112 Round Hip _| 85 | 89 | 93 | 97 | 102] 107 | 112 [117 | 122 [127 | 132 [137 Across Back |32.4|33.4]34.4 | 35.4 | 36.6] 37.8 | 39 [40.2 [41.4 }42.6] 43.8 | 45 Across Chest] 30 [31.2]32.4 33.6] 35 |36.5 | 38 [39.5] 41 [42.5] 44 [45.5 Shoulder 11.75] 12 12.25] 12.5 | 12.8] 13.1 |13.4]13.7 | 14 [14.3] 14.6 [14.9 Neck size | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 |39.2/40.4]41.6]42.8 | 44 [45.2] 46.4 [47.6 Upper arm _| 26 |27.2|28.4| 29.6] 31 |32.8 [34.4] 36 |37.8)39.6| 41.4 [43.2 Wrist 15 |1s.s| 16 | 16.5] 17 |17.5| 18 ]18.s| 19 [19s] 20 J20.5 Ankle 23 |23.s| 24 | 24.5 | 25.1] 25.7 |26.3 26.9 |27.5 [28.1 | 28.7 |29.3, High Ankle] 20 |20.5{ 21 | 21.5 [22.1] 22.7 [23.3 ]23.9 }24.5 5.1 [25.7 26.3, Nape to waist] 39 [39.5] 40 | 40.5| 41 [41.5] 42 ]42.5 | 43 [43.2] 43.4 [43.6 Front Shoulde 39 [39.5] 40 | 40.5 | 41.3] 42.1 ]42.9]43.7 Jaa.s] 45 |45.5| 46 to Waist Body Measurements 41Introduction to Pattern Making Ammhole | 20 [20.5] 21 | 21.5] 22 |22.5] 23 [23.5 |24.2[24.9]25.6 [26.3 depth Waistto {57.5} 58 |58.5] 59 | 59.5] 60 |.60.5] 61 1.25}61.5 }61.75] 62 knee Waist to hip | 20 [20.3 ]20.6 | 20.9| 21.2/21.5 | 21.8 }22.1 |22.3 22.5 ]22.7 [22.9 Waistto | 102 ]103 ] 104] 105] 106] 107 | 108 | 109 fiog.s]110 110.5] 111 floor Body rise _|26.6|27.3] 28 | 28.7] 29.4] 30.1 | 30.8]31.5 |32.5 33.5 ]34.5 ]35.5 Sleeve 57.2|57.8|58.4] 59 | 59.5] 60 ]60.5] 61 |61.2\61.4] 61.6 61.8 ength Sleeve 51.2|51.8]52.4] 53 | 53.5] 54 |54.5] 55 |55.2/55.4]55.6|55.8 length Gersey) Cuff Size, | 21 | 21 |21.5] 21.5] 22 }22.5] 23 }23.s| 24 fea.s] 25 Joss Shirts Cuff Size, Two - pie sleeve 13.25}13.5 13.75] 14 ]14.25 14.5 ]14.75] 15. [15.25]15.5]15.75] 16 Trouser a1 ja1.s| 22 ) 22.5) 23 }2: Bottom Width, 24 |24. |25.4 26.2) 27 |27.8 Jeans 185/185] 19 | 19 | 19.5] 20 } 20.5} 21 Bottom Width Size Chart for tall or short women have each vertical measurement adjusted as follow Short Women 152 - 160 em ] Tall Women 170 -178 em (4f 114 in - 5821/2 in) | (Sf 61/2 in - $f 91/2 in) Nape to Waist -2em +2cm Scye Depth -0.8 em +08 om Sleeve Length -2.5em +2.5em Waist to Knee -3cm +3cm Waist to Floor - Sem + Sem Body Rise ~ lem +lem Source: Aldrich, W. (1999) Metric Patten Cutting; Blackwell Science Reading size charts carefully you can observe the following: © Not all measurements increase by same amount. © Measurements like round bust, waist and hip increase in the same proportion and usually by 4 -5 cm, © Measurements like across chest, across back increase only by 1 to 1.5 em. © Shoulder measurements increases only marginally from 0.25 to 0.3 em. 423.5 LET US SUM UP Measurement taking is an important and integral component in the making of garments. In this unit you have learnt to identify the body landmarks correctly. ‘Measurements are categorized under three heads i.e. vertical, horizontal and girth measurements. The key to get a right fit of any garment depends on the right measurements so double check all your measurements. Table No. 8 provides an example of UK size chart. You can use the table, as a reference chart to tally your measurements to the size you are closest to in the size chart. Measurement size charts are important information centers providing details of a population. Size charts provide great deal of information to the designers, ‘manufacturers, retailers as well as to the consumers, Once you go through various size charts you can easily identify which size category you fall in. 3.6 KEY WORDS © Body Landmarks © Neck Circumference, © Bust Circumference © Waist Circumference © Hip Circumference © Across Shoulder © Front Length, 3.7 _REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED READINGS * Shoben, Martin and Ward, J.P (1997). Pattern Cutting and Making up: The Professional Approach. New Delhi: CBS Publishers. © Aldrich, Winifred (1998) Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear. London: Blackwell Science. Armstrong, Helen Joseph (1995) Pattern Making for Fashion Design. New York: Harper Collins College Publishers. 3.8 CHECK YOUR PROGRESS: THE KEY 1) Correct body measurements are very important to get right fit of the garments. And getting a right fit is important to a designer, manufacturer as well as to the customer. 1) Fortaking measurements you need a style tape to tie around waist, measuring, tape, thick cord for neck measurements and a measurement chart and pen to record the same. 2) Following points should be considered while taking body measurements: The person should wear close fitting garments as loose fitting garments will hinder locating body landmarks and lead to incorrect measurements. The person should stand straight with the feet placed together Take all measurements closely but not too tight Body Measurements 43IntroductiontoPattern Making eI is best to take measurements with a mirror at the back. This will ensure that your measuring tape is parallel to the floor. Also ensure that while taking vertical measurements the tape is perpendicular to the floor. All vertical measurements should be taken on one side only - usually the right side of the body. * tis best to follow a sequence and note down all the measurements in the given Table no. 3.7 and 3. 9. 2) 1) Measurements required for a basic bodice block with sleeve are: © Bust Circumference © Waist Circumference © Neck Girth © Actoss Back © Actoss Chest © Shoulder Length © Actoss Shoulder © Front Length © Centre-Front Length (CF) © Centre-Back Length (CB) Highest shoulder point (HSP) to bust © Ambole depth © Sleeve Length © Under Arm length © Armbole Girth * Bicep Circumference © Elbow Girth © Wrist Circumference 2) Measurements required for a skirt block are: © Waist Circumference © Hip Circumference © High Hip level © Waist to Hip level © Waist to Knee length © Waist to Ankle length 44