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3D 4 Layer Shadow Box • Tutorial

Project Description:
The shadow box continues to be a form I use often in my
3D paper designs. This tutorial is for any of the 4 layer
shadow boxes. I photographed the Birds on a Wire shadow
box as I made the tutorial but you can also use this for other
designs as well. More will be coming!

3D Shadow Box with Four Layers - Tutorial

Supplies Needed:

Cutting File from 3dCuts.com

The two displayed in this tutorial are:

Birds on a wire
Robins in Branches

8.5 x 11" card stock - I used the 65lb Cardstock from

Recollections.
1 6"x6" square of decorative background paper. The
photos included show a variety of backgrounds with
the same cutting file. Notice how it changes the
impact.
Paper Adhesive - I like Glu Dots and Scoretape for
this type of project but other adhesives work as well.

Steps for completing the Shadow Box:

1. Download the cutting files for your cutting machine.

2. Load the files into your cutting software following the

steps for your cutting machine.

3. Prepare the files:.

Helpful Hints:

For the Silhouette: The SVG files from this site will
need to be turned into cutting files. Click here for
detailed steps on how to use SVG files on your
Silhouette. http://www.3dcuts.com/tutorial-upload-
svg-silhouette
For Cricut Explore: Here is a guide for importing into
Cricut Design Space. http://www.3dcuts.com/tutorial-
adding-3dcuts-files-to-cricut

4. Cut the shapes.

It depends on the specific file you are cutting but

most will have 4 box layers, 1 back ground piece and
an optional hanger. Some designs might have
accessories that get added as embellishments.

5. Construct all 4 box frames.

Notice there is a cut-out number in one corner of

each frame. Use this a guide. It will help in identifying
the layers, identifying front or back, and knowing
which corner should be in the upper left.
I universally design these so that the number is
always in the upper left. On some frames it doesn't
matter but on others it does. If you always have the
number in the upper left as you work you will know
you are assembling things correctly.
The frames are numbered as they will be when
complete. Number ! is the front frame, 2 next, 3 next
and 4 in the back. You will not assemble them in that
order though.

Start with frame 1.

Place the 1 in the upper left corner and fold on all
dotted fold lines. You will fold the 4 edges back and
away from you on frames 1,2 and 3.
Make nice, crisp folds.

Use your adhesive of choice to glue the tabs inside of

each corner. I like to use Glue Dots because it keeps
my fingers clean. Other adhesives works as well.
On the first frame I put 4 mini glue dots in each
corner.

Make sure the edges line up.It is important to make

good, even square corners.

Glue all 4 corners of layer 1.

Glue together layers 2 and 3 the same way as you

completed layer 1.
These are inside and 1 glue dot per corner is enough.

On layer 4, reverse the fold. All the edges of layer 4

will be folded up toward you.
You should now have all 4 shadow box frames folded
and glued together.

6. Add embellishments.

Some shadow boxes may have embellishments on

some layers. This would be a good time to add those,
before you combine the layers.
Is your shadow box going to have a background
design? If so adhere that to the inside bottom of layer
4. I like to use spray adhesive for this step because it
keeps this layer flat.
You can tell from this tutorial that I have
experimented with many types of paper for the
background. Some, like the clouds are stock papers
but I also used watercolors, acrylics and spray paint
to created interesting new papers as well.

The cutting file includes and optional hanger. If you

want to use it, glue that into the top of layer 1 so the
hole folds up to the outside.
I used ScorTape here although any tape runner with
permanent adhesive would work.
Be sure to center the hook along the top edge of
layer 1.

7. Adhere frame 3 into frame 2.

I used Scor-Tape for this step.

Frame 3 gets adhered inside frame 2 using
Glue Dots or another adhesive. Make sure the back edges of each side line
up evenly. This forms the space between
frames 2 and 3.

8. An aside on spacers.

With some shadow boxes it is wise to add a few well

placed spacers. If the design has areas that don't
seem to be well supported and might sag over time,
inserting a spacer behind it and attaching that to the
back layer will make your shadow box stronger.
Different things can be used for spacers depending
on the location. Certainly white foam dots work well
on a white design. I have also used self-adhesive
weather-stripping foam.
I also will make tiny paper "springs" in matching
paper if it might be visible.
For the Birds on a Wire shadow box I did make some
paper spacers to help secure the center of the
design. The wire is the only support and I expect the
birds will sag over time.
To make 1 type of paper spacer, cut some 1/4" strips
from the background paper. I used the cloud paper
which was clouds on one side and white on the other.
Use a single glue dot to glue the two ends together at right angles.

Fold the bottom strip over the top, back and forth
creating the zig-zag paper spring.
When it is the proper depth for your shadow box, add
a glue dot to seal the end and cut the long remaining
strips of paper off thus creating a little spring.

In the Birds on a Wire shadow box I added 2 little

spacers.
The first is made from the background paper and
connected the bird closest to the center on layer 3 to
the back ground. This added strength to the back
wire.
I made a second out of black paper and placed that
behind the largest bird on the front line and
connected it to the wire behind it. That added a bit of
strength to the front line.
Not all designs need this type of paper engineering. It
is needed when there are few connectors to the
edges, or long skinny areas that are not supported.

9. Insert frames 2 and 3 into frame 4.

Frames 2 and 3 have already been glued together so

their back edges are even. This unit gets slid into
frame 4 and positioned against the background. You
want the edges of frame 3 to be snug with the
background on all four sides.
It is at this stage that I experiment with different
backgrounds before finalizing my choice.
You do need to glue this in place using Glue Dots so
it won't slide out while on display. But be sure of your
background before gluing!

10. Adhere frame 1 around frame 4.

Frame one should fit snuggly around frame 4.

I added Scor Tape to all four edges of frame I slide frame 1 over 4. I reached in to each side, peeled off the

1 but didn't peel the covering until the covering and pressed to adhere.

frames were placed together.

The shadow box is now complete and ready for display!

Copyright 2015 • 3DCuts.com • Marji Roy