Ne SAMERON DOUGLAS MS: How to taste Ita ticeyma Coy ty CAMERON/TAKES YOU ON’A:MASTERCLASS ) Sl PND | ha bea Satia ac Wines tasted 1 and:rated TOP 10. Rca itr) et US WINE STAR EDAINE | | a | PT amet aS a oe ere: Prabang pare ee cca ce teeBy Cin ANC [e is | owen ava . ae "CONTENTS A Word From ‘The Master Musings fr land's only Master Winemaker Interview: Natalie Christensen Yealands' Chief Winemaker talks Albarifio and barrel hall mantras How to Taste Pinot Noir uglas MS takes you through how to taste the world’s trickiest red variety Winemaker Interview: chaser, Paul Pujol talks to Cameron Douglas MS Hawke’s Bay’s Red Revolution Known for its big, warm, Bordeaux and Rhdne-styled red wines, Hawke's Bay s Undergoing something of a change Rex Pickett Oliver Styles talks to the man behind the great 2004 wine film Sideways, and asks if its heroes, Miles and Jack, are ‘coming to New Zealand ‘Top 10 Wine Films We run down the best the siver screen has to offer th Elaine Chuckan Brown Cameron talks to North Ameri superstar wine educator Tasting Notes 41 Souvignon Blane 44 Chardonnay Whites Nor 56 Other Reds 58 Syrah/Shiraz Cam's Best of 2022 (So Far) Front cover credit: Hawke's Bay Wine N ce RLD OF WINE - WINTER 2021 3Cameron Douglas, MS: A WORD FROM Master ‘WELCOME TO THE WINTER EDITION OF WORLD OF WINE. hile I don’t keep a diary note af when we light ‘ur indoor fireplace achome, i does seem like is eae this year. Outdoor heaters at restaurants have been on for some weeks already and menus are reflecting the seasonal change, so | guess winter is here The good news is that we can travel again and somewhere warm sounds very appealing right now, Now's the time to plan 4 trip around our beautiful country, perhaps Austalia, or the Pacific Ilands? Many places in the northern hemisphere ate open too ~ 30 just doit T completed a trip to the UK in late Apeil to chaie the New Zealand panel and judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards, the world’s largest wine competition, I wasnt sure how I would manage wearing a face mask through ‘wo long-haul Rights, but ie was okay and wih all the other passengers in the same situation we just did what we needed r0 do to gec there. If weating a mask when sharing. public transporeis alli takes to ge around, then life is, wel, prety good Continuing a persona goa of traveling to every win gion i Actearon erry yes ‘cing, Chang wth winemakers sting wine keeping up to sped with ual, rend Id wine sys produced sun, and Tam alvays earning. mentioned in thelist edn that 2021 was smaller vintage down over 20 percent for man ili epored, Sore of thowe wines ee now avalabl wth some excellent drinking aromatic: Chardonnay and son price. Moat ed wine ar ye 0 be less, 0 Tl ep you posted Vintage 2022 has ep the smiles going fo many producers inverms oft quay, but there were some wether events that dst help with some excellent cites anda couple of regions couldnt get thei Inc pening fui in on sie. Overall, hough, the quality i again very high ad we should cxpoct ome exceptional wines when released Tbe sure to keep you informed with reviews and tring notes through The Shout magazine, ‘World of Wine summer 2023 and every weck ac woewcamdouglasms.com, Some intresting stats from the 2022 harvest include a ewo percent increase on srith 33,752 hectares (ed viet at 7,851 hectares). There are 2101 vineyards NZ Marlborough remains the largest producing regan; and Sauvignon Blancs sil the mos sigiicane vary for whie grapes and Pinot Noir for red: Out smallest wine egion is Waitaki Valley at jus 39 hectares. Out wine sector x mony boutiqe with over 650 producers making between 1000 and 20,000 fase of wine each yer ‘Can T plese encourage you ro buy and support local as offen as you ean? Cameron Douglas, MS La 4, WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022THE BEST OF THE BAY BEST IN SHOW 97 POINTS. Mista euaeginea Sinisa. LARRY MCKENNA STEPS DOWN FROM ESCARPMENT \Vereran winemaker Latty McKenna ~ worked for Delegat in Auckland fiom 1980 ro tmajorfgue in the development of Pinot 1985. He moved to Martinborough (otake Noir in New Zealand and in particular the wp winemaking for Martinborough Vineyards) Jn 1986 before extalis Escarpment, also in Marinborough, in 1998, continsing to forge a reputation for producing stellt Pinot Noi. McKenna skeen to sidestep the “retizement word. "Tan not loking for ajob, hesaid “Tve not ofcily got any plans ~ Tin ‘establishment of Martinborough as one the ‘country’s preeminent areas for Pinot Noie is stepping down from his role as chief ‘winemaker at Escarpment, the winery he co- Founded over 20 years ago. ‘MeKennas contribution ro the New Zealand wine industry is hard v0 overstate ‘An Austalian expat and graduate from the Roseworthy winemaking school atthe University of Adelaide inthe mid-1970s (in itself, something ofa calling card), MeKenna ng his own project certainly not going to stare a new pro ‘oo Jae in the day for that kind of hing” “Tm 70 yeas od, I've been around long ‘enough to take a step back,” he added, CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC STARS IN FOOTBALLERS’ WIVES TRIAL. A boxe of 2017 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blane found icelfat che centre of the UK's high- profle libel case berwcen footballer wives Coleen Rooney and Rebekah Verdy. Dubbed the ‘Wagatha Christi” tial afer the acronym WAG forthe footballer “wives and gfe cotourage) the cate hinges around Rooney using social media eo oust Vardy asthe one person passing on Rooney’ personal information to the tabloids ‘Oe such Instgram post co which only Vandy, unknowingly, was piv) claimed the Rooneys had experienced a flooded basement and that a pictured boule of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blane was “needed afer today”. Popular UK tabloid The Sun then ran withthe (ale) story ofthe flooded basement back in 2019, GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN ISSUES SETTO DRIVE UP WINE PRICES ‘The warin Ukuine, ongoing sues with invernatonal shipping andthe eerie aig heeaches orcas Sattecincemspsere eas eee erento) 20 030 percene per bore of aod wine The win indus heres ko eng elec ed whee ad tosay jst how inconvenienced wineries wal wine es eck eo go up in the nea iru 6 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022@ Fecevook.com/Awinecentral @) gwinecentral @ wine central www.winecentral.co.nz | 099734747 | help@winecentral.co.nzNATALIE CHRISTENSEN INTERVIEW Ee INTERVIEW: NATALIE CHRISTENSEN Awatere Valley Vibes ‘YEALANDS' SUPERSTAR WINEMAKER TALKS TO OLIVER STYLES ABOUT FINDING HER PATH, MAKING WINE IN SPAIN AND MANTRAS IN THE BARREL HALL... Fa eM me art~- ' 7 OF WINE - WINTER 2022he problem with talking to Natalie Christensen is that she confounds iy cynicism. That's nor co say its bad thing bur journalists get tained to poke in the atic, looking for Dorian Gray’ hideous portrait; to find the dead bodies successful people have either created or stepped past they'e instinctively cynical. And i¢ makes fora juicy story. Aside From my notes, all I walk away with fom my chat with Yealands' Chief Winemaker isa feeble atempe ro pin down the shade of her lipstick. Aubergine isthe best I can come NATALIE CHRISTENSEN INTERVIEW ‘up with, But while I cant open any skeleton- containing cupboards or dish any diet, chat ddocent mean Christensen i boring, She's quite the opposite. As anyone who knows her knows. Colour seems to feature a lovin her life and her wardrobe (if her Tnseagram feed is anything to go by) is a technicolour rot. That's why I'm trying to pin down the lipstick But today, her tones are relatively muted, les a Sunday morning at Napier establishment Mister D's, Weve both had late Saturday. nights and although Christensen is tucking WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 9NATALIE CHRISTENSEN INTERVIEW Into a solid breakfast, 'm only on the coffee (Our watier appeats none too impressed by ‘my lack of appetic (he restaurant is packed) but Im also trying to pay attention because there's a loc to get dow, Firs, her career path into winemaking is far from straightforward, Born in Christchurch, she studied music at Vierria (Wellington) and is classically esined on che double bass, having also played with the "New Zealand Youth Orchestra. Her Bachelor of Aes in Music morphs neo poychology crossover via music therapy and ends with her taking = Masters of Science in Applied Psychology: ‘An HR job stright out of university beckoned but it wasnt for her. had a quater-life crisis” she says. “L 4quic the job and took up bar work in Darwin. The harvest was at Saine Chaitin 2006 and despite her initial eravel plans, she stayed, They'd jue built a new winery and they xd mea permanent position. I stayed ‘with them for six years and completed my Graduate Diploma in Oenology through EIT [Hawke's Bay] pare-time. Having made it to Assistant winemaker at Saint Clair, she moved to Matahiwi's in the Wairarapa to take a Winemaker role there in 2012. Working with Matai’ Former long-serving Head Winemaker Jane Cooper was a great experience [..] I grew a heap and learnt loads”. She also credits Cooper ‘with “helping her harden up” but char’ the closest I get to any admission of hard-nosed business skills Then, after 18 months in the Wairarapa, came Spain, where in 2013 she worked for US importer Jorge Ordofce asa winemaker in Ras Balsa, the home of Albatifio, adding the sxeect wines of Malaga to her stint in 2014, Spain, and the cool-limate Rias Baixas, taught her a grea del Te taught me alo abous the importance of malic acid and keeping an eye on this for picking decisions,” she says. "The coast of the Salnés Valley in Ras Baisas reminds me a lot of the coastal aspect of where Yealands is situated in the Awatere Valley” In 2014, as many budding winemakers do, Christensen had also done a vintage at Yealands as Vintage Winemaker before ‘going back ro Spain, cramming two harvests across two hemispheres in one yeat. She took aYealands Winemaker role the year later staying on and working het way up the ladder to Chief Winemaker in 2019. Spain’ influence is sll there, though, even inthe Awatere "We dont cat lots of Spanish tortillas oF ‘octopus — is more like a pepper steak pie From the Cosy Corner Café — bur we do experience the same coastal influence on our fruit, giving iva mineral, salty edge. We have some Alba. planted now at our vineyard and received out first crop this harvest. I's very exciting to be working with this variety agai.” ‘Thats not the only influence Christensen is bringing tothe wines. A practitioner of Ashram yoga, she’ nor only due ro spend 4. 10-day yoga retreat in Golden Bay a week afer our char, she's also gor a mantra playing on repeat in the barel hall “Purity unity and oneness,” the mantra _gocs. “Its perfec for Pinot Nois” she adds As for fucue projects? “Tve never been 0 Japan,” she tells me. "There's this ching called forest bathing’ ~ shirin yok ~I just wanna go and check this out Rather than stoking my journalistic Someone waged vo Maroroogh, Cestersen wth posibihe open, Ts tngtanng wend 1 wotka harestand then domy OF (Oveseas Resp bares of Pot eld ty sme more pov anes Experience) in the UK: i myself 10 WORLD OF WINECustom-made for your favourite New Zealand Pinot Noirs Shop now at RIEDEL.com RIEDEL Veritas New Zealand Pinot Noir glass 6449/76HOW TO TASTE PINOT NOIR | How to taste | Time Coste Uo SoM Mn tales Maem aeons el) ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST FICKLE GRAPES. Jasting wine isa skill anyone can master if they'e willing to learn ow their palate works, Indeed, vehen I gor ceded to learn how to taste properly before ious about wine | could start exploring the world of wine, ts diferene grape va attending a wine course and getting the basics ties and wine styles. Afer down I then kn begin ‘Arsome point on your oven wine journey, w how to proceed and let the youll run into Pinot Noir willbe there ~ if you haven’ already. Ie can be a tricky rape bus it certainly lends ivelf to deeper poration and discussion. Pinot can be ‘one of chose life-changing wines ic can as disappoint although sometimes this is not INE - WINTER 2022 Pinot is fascinating. Is aroma can be both sensual and floral earthy and mineral, mysterious and comples, it's easy to think of smell of great Pinot. ‘working a harvest in Burgundy and when you pick grapes you get to know the smell ofthe vineyard you't in: the sol: che and time with th vines the air around you. Tasting a wine from that same vineyard instantly took me back co place where I had been harvesting, from the perfumes tothe sense of place. This wa an epiphany for me and is part of why Pinot Noir can be so evocative The structure of any wine, its acid, alcohol, fruit concentration, use of oak and tannins form the foundation, bue also provide mouthfeel and carry the voice of place, complexity and finish, These idea \ eae Reena ae crucial to fine wine and fine Pinot Nois, although Pin cctools, tannins are generally finer, npared with the likes of Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, Ie also a rather fickle grape to grow and ripen needing lots of attention in the vineyard. Ic isa variety cha ean echo its surrounds from soil and minerals, lowers and plants as well as berry-fuie favours and dried herbs. Tasting Pinot Noir requires some extra focus, her's how I approach it Your nose isa mach more powerfl tool than ye way posible staring with the lass with a large bowl, tapering inwards atthe Fim, and ideally wich a long rem fora decent svi The thinness of gas and shape ofthe Fim are importan to delivery ofthe wine ontoHOW TO TASTE PINOT NOIR the palate The size ofthe bow i important for ‘switling and breaking large surface area of wine to release then tap a8 much seen as posible ‘Make sure you're not trying to taste Pinot ‘on the back of a coffe or highly favoured foods, rinse your palate using mineral water (Cap water can carry oo many disruptive flavours, such as chlorine). You only need around 70m to taste a wine so the process from hete is about revealing the package of scents and trying to gather inthe texte and ‘complexigy You cant taste and assess Pinot on just one smell and one taste ‘Swirl the wine afew times, then get your nose right into the glass. Give it along, slow, ‘gentle sniff — eyes open — exhale through your nose and relax. Do the same again, but this time eyes closed and sniff longer a be sure you fill your lungs then exhale through your rose and relax, One more sniff, only this cme, before you do, place the palm of your hand ‘over the top ofthe glass and soil the wine again, Then immediately you remove your hand your nose goes bac into the bow! with another moderate sniff — eyes closed. All this ‘swicling and sniffing will ake ust one or two ‘minutes tops the whole point ofthis approach isto wake up your senses and then open them acucely to subsley, complexities, techniques of fermentation and resting on les, and the story 4 Pinot Noit is tying to tell you The delivery of Pinot Noir ono the palace is important ro its assessment, s0 be sure to let the wine touch the tip of your rongue as you take the first sip this helps you decide how fruity, acidic and intense it isall ar once. Also, the right glas les the wine cascade across your palate evenly. Be sure co hold the wine fora Few seconds before you engage any rinsing technique. Pinot isa wine that wants 1 ell you its story and, ifyou swish ic around your ‘mouth too much, he storyline is disrupted and. yout may lose the thread of information, Describing a Pinot Noir might take some yer the tate and textures usally reflect your recognition of flowers and light red berry fruits fom cherries co raspheris,strawherries then plums time fits a complex example The feuits can be your impressions of Fesly harvested, dried, cooked or preserved A fine savoury quality from deed herbs to the taste of chalky textured soils - cay or stone, a lick of limestone, chalk or just minerals is atypical attribute of Pinot. The use of oak is eritial ro depth and complexity, eexture and length on the palace; tis is where a winemaker’ vision of what the wine will be like afer 2,5, 10 of 20, yeas in bottle might be so its understandable tha oak flavours and textures might be stronger when a Pinot is younger. Baking ‘or kitchen spices from clove and vanilla to nutmeg, cinnamon and five spice may become pare of your vocabulary for describing Pinot that has a noticeable oak influence. Tannins and acidity are important to your assessment of Pinot. [like to use words that make sense ro most people such as needle point or nails, sandpaper or emery board, dusty, chalky or even coarse silk tannins ~ all trying convey the texture you fel on your tongue, Acidity can both supplement and counterbalance texture, structure and fruits i's also thereto help the wine age, carry favour and enhance texture, so in younger Pinot acidity should be mote noticeable, but it should not be hard or drying. ‘The finish and length of great Pinot Noir holds the key to your satisfaction and assessments if you keep wanting to invade your snses with the scents, favours and. textures of a Pinot Noir, youte probably holding a glass of fine wine [Be sure o take your time with Pinot Noi, it wants you co, it lke reading a great book where every word has to be read cateully o understand the storyline and character nuance, {ORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 43NODDING TERMS ‘ouguet vs. Aroma. ‘The term bouquet is used to encapsulate the package of scents encountered when smelling a wine forthe fist time, Examples can be as simple a fi or “earthy ‘even “complex” of “simpl Aroma, however, is best used when going. ingo more detail about the wine's individual smells within the bouguet, For example, if youre tasting 82022 Sauvignon Blane from Marlborough you might say ‘citrasy" ax part ‘of che bouquet, bus then go on to clarify with aromas of lemon, pith and pink grapefruit. Complexity is determined, pocentially even measured, by the collection of aromas, flavours and cextues presen in a wine, The more you notice or are enticed by these atributes, the more complexity a wine has, Keep in mind thae complexity can be present ina young wine and be lose when i is too ‘old, Or, i can gain complexity a it gets older. Also, is worth bearing in mind that the grape variety or style of wine, che country of oxgin, its reputation and/or its cos is no indication oF complexity. True complexity comes down to ste, vineyard management, condition of| fruit and optimal ripeness at harvest along with the sist ofa winemaker ~ and, in some cases, careful cllaring on your part! Malolactic Fermentation, oficn shortened to “malo” or "MLE" isthe natural, bacterial conversion of malic aid (ofien present in a very young wine) into lactic acid, MLE conversion happens in nearly all red wines and in some white wines, and can happen naturally or be induced by the winemaker Avwhite wine might go through partial of full malolactie fermentation to deliver softer mouthfeel, sometimes creamy or butery impression on the palae. If you're experiencing a white wine, sy Chardonnay, that has undergone a 100 peroent MLE, you might be able to use extra lactic-derived words such as milky, yoghurt, cream and butecr Some winemakers prefer the sharper acidity and green apple notes sometimes assaciated with no oF minimal MLE Oxidized isan important term to know and use when you find yourself questioning a ‘wine's condition, Al wines ulkimatey oxidise, so f youre asessing a young wine and start vusing descriptors such as bruised apple or a lack of freh frie aromas or favours then the wine is possibly oxidised and chis i faul. The best way to test his for yourselfs sample (or jus sniff a borle you've had open for several days. Ignoring any vinegaey whiffs (this isa separate fale), such a wine should smell both oxidised and the Aavouts should have lose all their vibrancy. Noting vibrancy is important because some wines (such at Sherres and some jura white wines) are made ‘oxidatively and have some ofthe aromatic signatures oxidised wines (nutty and bruised apple notes). However; in condition, such ‘wines will sll show great vibrancy on the palate. Even a small amoune of oxidation on a (OFF THE BACK OF OUR PINOT NOIR COACHING TIPS, HERE ARE FIVE TASTING TERMS EXPLAINED. regular wine can be positive. There i a sweet spot in che lfcycle oF wine where the effects ‘of oxygen add to a wine's complexity. This means oxidation can be positive in a wine as well, ut for how long is determined by you, the taster. Negative oxidation can be caused by poor storage conditions a weakened elosure or simply time, Phenolic is «great term to use in tasting and assessing wine, Phenols ae a large family of compounds found ina variety of forms in grapes and wine, Phenols occur naturally in the stalks, skins, pulp and seeds of grapes and depending on their incensity of use can contribute colour, mouthfeel and flavour. Tannin isa well-known phenol compound and if you like oak or wood favours, you ae likely more tolerant of phenolics. Some phenols can add positive biterness or, if ‘you perceive too much bitterness, they are negative. You might then say for example wine is too phenolic, even biter, oF 100 phenolic with too much oak and wood tannins. Very dark red wines or wines that have been aged in a lor of new oak oF along. ageing period in oak can contain a high degree ‘of phenolics. Some drinker like this and ‘others not. Some grape varieties have higher natural phenolics and are expected in the finished wine (Viognier and Gewirztraminer are two sch varieties). The bottom line phenolics are necessary in wine fo texture ot ‘mouthfeel - roo many and a wine is out of balance. El 14 WORLD OF WINE - W‘SPONSORED CONTENT ‘Brut’ force comes through in the end rower Champagne i all che rage at the moment, although waiting for ito get here has been abit like waiting fora bus ~ bur theee have just pulled up, ‘While everyone knows theie prestige ‘Champagne houses and labels, from Cristal to Dom Pérignon to Bollinger, the harder to find ‘gem of the "Grower Champagne” category has really kicked off cross the globe. While these champagnes ~ crafted by artisan small- scale winegrowets, hence the name "Grower Champagne" ~ are all too rate on our shores, thrce new names have recently landed here in New Zealand. These ate Champagne Charles Hubert, Vauversin, and Roger Manceaux. For Charles Hubert and Vauversin, this is their fisc time on NZ. shores, ‘CHARLES HUBERT ‘Charles Hubert Champagnes are the result of exceptional terot, family trdition and ‘modernity. Thee vines ate grown inthe famed Grand Cru village of Ambonnay - a stone's throw from bigger players producing well- known cuvées with four-fgute price tags. Inthe 1930s, che current Charles Huber’ grandfather produced Charapagne in his cellar and disgorged on the By toa small group of local fans. Today, Charles Huber brings formal training in oenology and viticulture, with ‘experience in a winemaking consultancy, to his family operation. The combination of family know-how; formal taining and exceptional terroir produces exceptional Champagnes. \VAUVERSIN \Vauversin i situated in the Grand Cru village of Oger and produces delicious, organically certified Champagne. Vauversn ws the frst company in Oger co be certified organic (in 2014). Their vines are meticulously cared for year-round, They practice biodiversity by planting cereals, Howers and various tee species between thee vines and they use ‘mineral preparations, herbal teas and essential oils to protect their vineyaed feom climatic stresses, Vauversn has a rich family history in winemaking and have been growing Chardonnay grapes exclusively since theit beginnings - in 1640. Up unsil 1928, they also grafied chee own vines. Vauversi's flagship Champagne ‘Ordage’ is made by a perpetual reserve system where a portion of wine from each new harvests added to a single reserve blend containing wines from previous harvests. Around 1,000 bottles of the new blend is drawn off each year proving us with a fascinating liquid history. Vauversin has a total curren production of just 18,000 bottles per annum from their boutique three- hectate vineyard. We ate heyond privileged to shave their beacifal Champagnes with you ROGER MANCEAUX Roger Mancesux’ father was a cooper and his grandfather cellar master. When Roger was boy, he was told that if he did well in hie school exams he could choose a bicycle or a ploc of vines as a reward. Thankfully, he did wel... and he chose the vines. The story goes thas afer his ise year’ harvest he was able vo ‘buy himself his own bieycle with the proceeds Roger began producing Champagne in his ‘own name in the late 50s and eatly 60s, Today ‘Champagne Roger Manceaux owns around 13, hectares across nearly 80 plots. Ther vines are situated in diferent Premier and Grand Cru villages allowing Roger Manceaux to offer a range that reflects the different acibuces, of the various terois. Some of Roger Manceau' vines are 45 yeats ol, giving great depth of favour. (ORDER DIRECT: vwaya.champagnecruco.n2 champagnecrune@gmailcom 16421434919 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 15CHASING PINOT PAUL PUJOL IS SOMETHING OF AWINEMAKER'S WINEMAKER IN NEW ZEALAND. CAMERON SITS DOWN WITH A SELF-CONFESSED CHASER OF PINOT NOIR. always thought Paul was a Southland bom lad ~ he seems so connected to the land — bue Iwas wrong: he was be as he likes sam is om Hamilton too and Hamilton ~ “the mighty Tron toccall it. His his dad from France My dad's probably che frst person in to Hamileon,” he sys had to ask how someone would choose the Thon a a destination, Turns out his dad was asklled boiler maker and while on leave from the French company he worked for, came to Auckland, met Paul's mum and just a few weeks hey were together in France Aide over a year later, and just before Paul was botn, they eame back to NZ. ‘With his dad's work the Family moved around a bie and Pa was mainly in Whangarei. After high school, the classic Kiwi OE to the UK was calli bur working in English pubs pulling beers s Formative education dia appeal to Paul so he decided to tip around rance for a yea, picking up the language along the way. Upon his return to NZ Paul went toCHASING PINOT "university withthe idea that a degree in incemnational management might get him back to France. That plan didnt work so well «0 he swapped t0 outdoor education and redial exercise prescription in the hope that i would keep his passion for skiing and swhite-water kayaking alive and in paid work, Paul rcals that wine appreciation was part of Uni’ life and remembers che narual exposure to ine culture while in France. “I slowly developed an interest in drinking decent wine,” says Paul ‘As the stars were beginning to align for his Paul Pujol takes a break from the Pnot chose at Prophet's Rock fiacure caret, Pauls interest in cool climate viticuleure was brewing inthe background, later confirmed with a university fldesip to Marlborough, If youire chasing Pinot Noie, and Iwas, Lincoln was the best university t0 tend” says Pl With a degree in hand, Paul completed 1 post-graduate diploma in viticuleure and ‘enology at Lincoln University in Cancerbury. His ist appointment was with Seresin Wines in Marlborough: “they were doing some exciting things inthe vineyard aswell as wild Ferment in the winery, were Focused on fine Aa wine with a strong Pinot Noir program’ This was in 2000 and after vintage ike many new winemakers, Pal decided it would be a 0d idea to attempt four mote vintages in 12 months so hatched a plan to make i all happen, Seresin was frst, then wineries in the Languedoc Rousillon (second), Sancerte (chird) and Alsace (fourth). His plan co make the fifth in the Hunter Valley on the way home didnt happen, “As luck would have it, Maison Ki (Alsace) were looking fora winemaker and subsequently offered me the job I became oee-Bas WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 17CHASING PINOT the frst non-family winemaker at Kuente-Bas pany started in 1795." Pauls wife joined him in Alsace and three and a hal years later he and family had decided to work their way home to Aoteatoa ‘Avwinemaking role at Lemelson Vineyards in Oregon became a rwo-vineage diversion along the way, but they finally all arrived home in 2005. Two family members were horn during this winemaking journey ~ a daughter, born in Alsace, and a son, born in Oregon since thee "Now home and determined to stay in wine production, Paul learned of a winemaker role ata new wine company called Propher’s Rock in Orago (named aftera goldminer fiom che 1800s) and after meeting with the ‘owners visced the vineyard in Bendigo (Paul is smiling a this point), “I knew immediately this was a special place” Prophet's Rock is an elevated sts, frost-free ‘with clay and chalk sols, aul has been the winemaker there since 2006, crating Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, a Vin de Pale sweet wine and Pinot Noit. Thee ae several different expresions of Pinot Ni Home Vineyard and Rocky Pe Rerrospect lace release expression and new to from the the portfolio isa Pinot named Oleatia, a wine from a soil specific section ofthe vineyard, ‘One other wine chat has a wonderful back story isthe Cuvée Aux Antipodes, 4 Pinot Noir made nor by Paul, but by Frangois Mille. Millet i a very well-known and respected winemaker from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogié in Burgundy: When Jean-Luc Pepin, also from Comee Georges de Vogié, visited NZ for the Pinot Celebration in 2009 he happened to ry some of Paul's wines, was very complementary and invited Paul to visit hie vineyards and winery ifhe was ever in France. Sure enough, Paul was able co worke vineage that year in Burgundy which is where he mer and worked with Miller, Paul recalled digging out «tank of skins from ‘one of the more famous parcels of fruit (Les Amoureuses): “it was lke standing in a tank full of flowers, very intoxicating ~ those scents will tay with me forever [can now sce why Paul’ turn of phrase ‘chasing Pinot is so important and ‘meaningful. In discovering that Mille and Paul had alot in common from winemaking and transparency of sit into the wine ‘ooperage and barrel selections, Paul decided to invite Frangois’s son Julien to NZ co do vineage. During a visi to NZ co see his son Frangois also tried Paul's wines and like Pepin before him was very complementary ‘of Pauls work, Somewhat cheekily Paul invited Millet ro make some wine from the Prophet's Rock ste and to Pauls delight Frangois said yes. After walking the site, tasting through back vintages and receiving tank samples From various parcels sent to him in Burgundy, Frangois chose a section of the vineyard to make his wine, This is how the Cuvée Aux Antipodes wine was bora, with the firs vintage in 2015. Frangois has returned to NZ many times ro make his ‘avée at Prophet's Rock. Pajol's stewardship ofthe land to wine at Prophet's Rock is st to continue; “I still feel the connection to ths place and find ihard to imagine losing that link and to these wines", Pcan sce why this will be eue ‘of Pat, his understanding of soil and ste aspect and the voice of place and time from a vineyard crafed into a bottle of wine is ingrained in him, 0 ‘mipsltwwns propbenrock.co.nal 18 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022HAWKE'S BAY'S RED REVOLUTION aw 2) ay’s Red NO-ONE'S ABOUT TO REPLACE MERLOT WITH PINOT NOIR ON THE GIMBLETT GRAVELS, BUT OLIVER STYLES FINDS A CONVERGENCE OF NEW BLOOD, A NEW WINE-DRINKING DEMOGRAPHIC AND NEWER VINEYARD SITES IN NEW ZEALAND'S PRIME WARM-CLIMATE REGION IS PUSHING DEVELOPMENT IN or decades th hearand of Cabernet Sauvignon, Metiot and Sra the warm Ease Coast region iswitening meting of realignment. Pir ifs because, afer a while, people wane something diferent. Ever the preserve of Bordenux blends and robust liner) Syrah, Haves Bay tas built much ofits eputation on it swarm climate: ideal fore, racrred ted wins =the kind of hing thar goes wel with a teak that sags off the edge of Tee Except everone knows tha story now Feople aren’ necessarily bored, is simply that in New Zealand at lens) it doeant ‘Which isa good thing. Bucs also why people like myself and Rod Easthope (ormer Cray Range winemaker now wth is own brand) get invited ro Scephen Wong MW's Welington-bsed Wine Sentence alk to consumers and trae about Hawke's Bays lighter red wine. Because chat, co, ia thing. LESS TRADITIONAL DIRECTIONS. Hoc Bay has abvays done so-called cooler climate red vate: Pinot Noi Gamay ~ even Cabernet Fane which en be grows and made oa singlo-air n crunchy Loire (athe than blended Bordeaux) sale. Al have a Tong history in Hawke’ Bay Indeed, acording to Te Mata Estate's Chi Executive Nic Buck, Pinot Noir figured in Te ‘Matas se plantings in the 1890 "Nonetheless, Hawke Bay, ike much of the country, is a relative newcome ro wine and even plantings in the ae Twentieth ry could be as much hope as they were studied. And while i was cleat to many growers and winemakers that some sits were simply not cut out forthe kes of Pinot Noir, expore demand for New Zealand Pinot Noe of any stipe could ‘maintain thie production. Such was the case for Vidal Keltern Vineyard Pinot Noir atthe much cooler western end of the warm Bridge Pi region) which gave ts Tas crop in 2015 before being replanted to sromade whies "Thats not wos that export demand is a negative influence. Indeed, while alr of Haw’ Bay lighter ed wines are consumed domestically (pay a revue of volume rotrdons on production not much ofit i+ made compated vo the bigger reds, many cxport marks are also ataced to them, pete because a lighter ed wine fs Beer fORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 49HAWKE'S BAY'S RED REVOLUTION The vineyard terraces at Crownthorpe injand from Hawke's ‘Bays warmer sites. I's stil dry out here, but ts cooler too ~ perfect to supply the international demand for aromatic white wines and Pinot Not, also provides avenues for winemakers to move nto les traditional wines and sts.HAWKE'S BAY'S RED REVOLUTIONHAWKE'S BAY'S RED REVOLUTION with, for instance, 2 UK consumer’ vision of New Zealand than a Bordeaux blend which, by the time it reaches foreign market, x ‘going to have to compete with examples from France, Spain, Argentina, California, South African Austalia and the like. “ewas along progression to gain acceptance of what was previously an tunknown wine syle within this country.” ssid Buck of Te Mata Gamay. “Much of the early sucess actually came offshore, but gradually our New Zealand customers came to appreciate the wine as well "Te Mata is a good example not only of producer that covers both clase, Bordeaux- Blended reds and Syras (with Coleraine, ‘Avwatea and Bullnse) bur alo Gamay ‘and now high-end Pinot Noir with Alma. Added to which, is overall production is anillustation ofhow the regions satelite vingyard areas ae developing. "Fe Mata haste lage Woodthorpe vincyard, up the Tutackuri River, norehwest and inland from the warmer, f not hoxer, Sites of che Gimblete Gavel and Bridge P (where the winery also has vineyard holding) ‘Woodthorpe is where much ofthe Gamay and Pinot Noirs planted Sims plantings farther up the Nearacoro River, oughly due west of Bridge P5, inthe Mangatahi and Crownthorpe subregions, have son not only the development of aromatic whites and Chardonnay in these (again) cooler areas, but also cooler red vateis Sileni has grown Pinot Noir in Mangstahi for years while lan and Linda Quinn, who established Two Terraces vineyard in 2015, now grow and supply Gamay tothe likes af Easthope, Organised Chaos and Amoise. These are just afew ofthe smaller, up-and- ‘coming labels being produced inthe region Others include Decibel, doing lot of work with Mabe, and ‘Three Fates with Cabernet Franc. Others, such a5 Tony rtchard at De La Tere have been making the likes of ‘Montepulciano and Tanna for years For Canadian expat winemaker Amy Famsworth of Amoise, working with che apes like Gamay and Cabernet Franc was the gal from the star, conscious that in going with more mainstream varieties shed be “competing with everyone el. She ala loves working with v-aled lemaive atc “Cabernet Franc is s juicy, it's so lovely and vibrant she sys. “'m wo happy tbe working with Furthermore, her wines reflect the wines she dink herself. “Ona regular bass Fm always reaching for Cabernet Fane or a Vind lt of igpration fiom these wines Testis focus on the part ofa seemingly evcegiowing nuber ofall winemakers nking Beaujolais tha is helping to shift things (lbeie wich very baby steps) in che regional industry ‘While lan and Linda Quinn ae Two Terraces predominantly produce the mor ubiquitous Chardonnay, they openly state the chee nal planings alo occared with winemaker input “Asa result of interest from winemakers that we realy wanted to work with, we are foing o plan around 1.2 hectares of Gamay Noin® they sa back in 2016 “Tes going shroogh «que reargence inpematiooaly [-] ani there ae aleady a couple of examples Goon tobe added! being made in New Zedtand” “Thisis where Hawk's Bays alternative sed wins curently stand, Theyre nor making tmassve inroads as far as volume isconcemed but hey do sin he middle of «number of converpng current inthe international, national and loa wine sen Fiesty as evidenced by Te Maa, theit appeal has existed for decades, “Our ‘customer love [Gamay') upfront fui appeal its immediacy and ies easly accesible charm, says Buck. Bus, more than loyal customers, ‘wine consumption trends have ben changing. As Farnsworth and the Quinns point out, Pandy i fashion, pardy is generational, The Quinns supply their Gamay to people considered realy young (in wine industry terms) ~ofen ‘idence by the sizeof production. Many of thes altematve variety wine producers are small ‘volume eatively boutique, fen minimal- incerenion winemaker. ‘Added to this, the exploration ofthese ‘ates has occured with the discovery ‘expansion and/or adaptation of winegrowers sound the Gimblett Graves and Bridge Pa “These wines arent about to take over the reputation Have’ Bay has for the likes ‘ofits Chardonnay ris Syrah but they ae iconicaly perhaps sign thatthe ecgion is both maturing, geting a fs! for what posible, and embracing ts youth side Frost-fihting with water in inand Hawke's Bay (alimages. ‘courtesy of Hawke's Bay Wine) 22 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022AVAILABLE NOW Te MATAREX PICKETT INTERVIEWREX PICKETT INTERVIEW REX PICKETT IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE. BREAKOUT 2004 WINE FILM, SIDEWAYS. HE'S IN NEW ZEALAND, LOOKING TO BRING HIS (INFAMOUS. PROTAGONISTS, MILES AND JACK, ON A ROADTRIP THROUGH AOTEAROA. OLIVER STYLES TALKS TO THE ITER, NOVELIST AND WINELOVER. « neve rel people sont hide of Jac and Mies imacamperan, people a sa laughing ~ tha gl” t/t Silom itor Rex Picker. Het ight Anyone tase 2004 fs Scewsyi now he thought ‘of a nervous, uptight, and sometimes maudlin Miles and his blithe, narcissistic womaniser buddy Jack sharing the New Zealand rouris’s mode of transport par excellence, i ripe for comedy. Pickers in New Zealand to write the latest instalment of the Sideways seties and when I talk 0 him, he’ hanging out (or more exactly, propped up in a large bed in Central Otago) taking Zoom calls from inquisitive Kiwi wine writes on as Miles, his He’ immediately upftone chat, in writing in the fse ps Sideways novels are autobiographical (so fr all three Sideways books have the hallmarks of thinly-veiled memoirs). So much so that, as he admits: “my ex-wife, when she read the draft of Sideways, she told me to burn it.” WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 25REX PICKETT INTERVIEW Picket snapped back home in Calforio But Pickee isnt Miles. There's something in Picket self-confidence that you feel Miles would love 1 have. He a man who (on the face oft, atleast is happy in his own skin, who has come to terms with himself, For one hae cakes my call sprawled (clothed, I should add) on his vast double bed, his head propped forward bya pillow on the headboard and his lapeop presumably resting on hie stomach. Pickett’ ajay to interview and, were it not forthe 40-minute time limit on my frce Zoom account, you feel he was someone swith whom you could have spent all morning chatting. He’ not reicent about hs possible book ideas, either. He’ already formulating his ideas forthe book but he tells me he needs to find a base and establish a writing routine, That's yet to happen. When Ital to him, he' a few weeks off lying back up to Auckland to hire a campervan and drive down the length of the country. Either way, we're likely o be going fa road exp again might stare che nove in Central Otago,” he ells me, “and take the trip in reverse go to Auckland.” “Through New Zealand's numerous wine segions, obviously. Ever since the Miles and Jack stomped their way through Santa Barbara wine country, tasting Pinot Noit and famously ‘not drinking any fucking Merlot” (in the words of Miles), Pickett has been taking the pic on roadeips. His follow-up book to Sideways ~ Vertical ~ saw Miles and Jack drive up the California coast ro Oregon. Another road rp followed in the less imaginatively tiled Sideways 3 Chile, with Miles winding. his way’ chrough the wine regions ofthe South ‘American counery researching an article. More of the same in Now Zealand. "Al of my scuffs road movies,” he sys “Going back to Hollywood ro Deadwood [referencing one of his fist films, made in 1989, which he wrote and directed.” Here, Pickett goes back to his childhood and name-drops one of his fivourite films: Wim ‘Wender’s Kings ofthe Road - “the greatest road movie ever made’, I looks like New Zealand will be no different. T might get Jack to come and rescue Miles,” he sys. "The way the ewo islands ate, iC Tooks like there’ always a journey. Jack and Miles can bond in a campervan, explore that male fiendship, and itl probably end in California. IF they eke the oad trip in July in one flight [back to Los Angeles or San Francisco, you've jumped two seasons.” You can almost se che imagination working, from winery, portharvest Central Orage [when T spoke to him, Pickett was staying at Prophets Rock), through the South and North Island, co ‘Auekland and onto late summer California Il probably fnish in California in the harvest," he add Task him about the likelihood of this book: becoming a movie, write novels to become movies,” he admits, although his most recent work ~ the hefy, almost 700-page novel The Archivist isa screenplay-cumned-nove, Should Sideways 4 New Zealand appear (hopefully under a better ttle), however, the chances ofa film adaptation areas good as youl get from the ‘mouth ofa Hollywood insider. ‘He [Sideways director Alexander Payne] sul clk about ic— he’s just wrapped a film with Paul [Giamatti ~ who plays Miles in Sideways)” he tells me, “But this i Hollywood ~ nobody likes to commis. But then is very hard to get original material _groen-lie these days, So what of Sideways New Zealand? Will Pickete da to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc what he did to Merc twenty yeats ago? Whav’s Miles’ take on Sauvignon Blanc? I think Picket’ had that question come up before "Well, Merlot ened that reputation. 1 dont havea stake in taking down Sauvignon Blanc,” he says “Although I was shocked that 67% of wine produced here is Sauvignon [o.] bur I've gor no interest in defaming an industry.” So, should the book come to fruition, which wineries will be featured? “That will happen ae my discretion. 26 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022" DRINK THEM NOW! SCAN THE QR CODES AND ORDER THEM NOW! ie 4 vxeD PINOT NOIR its lee MIXED TASTING CASE ( SCAN HERE MIXED CHARDONNAY re SCAN HERE FOR MORE INFO a rola FOR MORE INFO letertaining orjust dining in at home. Here ramingham Sauvignon Blan (Gewratraminer 2021 tothe Dry Hil Reserve Chardonray 2028. Wels you covered forrest, fom Pinat Noi Tk Single ira cmeaaasses aie Se he blockbuster int Hil Gimblet Gravels 2020 oh Fe ry ov Hawke's Bay IN ADDITION TO THE CASES ABOVE, YOU CAN PURCHASE OTHER WINES REVIEWED Tce aon toa a coat OM Sec WTA AWIN eRe 4TOP 10 WINE FILMS WINE FILMS OLIVER STYLES RUNS THROUGH HIS TOP TEN WINE FILMS. SOMM (2012) If you enjoy wild aroma descriptors with your wines including (memorably) che smell of freshly- ‘opened eennis ball canisters slong wich the freshman intensity of the po-ficed US sommelier scene, this one’s for you, All the tials and tribulations ofa group of wannabe Master Sommeliers presented like a bootcamp training video chat a imes Fels like the First half of Full Metal Jacket crossed with Gosford Park, Abit ike The Apprentice with wine ‘THE WING OR THE THIGH (1976) Louis de Funds is France’ favourite cot, Wel-known throughout Europe and beyond, he is almost unknown in the English-speaking world. This comedy lin features de Fans playing the head of prestigious restaurane review publication (unashamedly based on the Michelin Guide) who ends up in a cleual ight with a ass produced food entrepreneur. The comedy often descends co slapstick and i does always work (che son’ sideline asa circus clown fels uncomfortably contrived) but there ate some great moments ~ the blind ‘asting” (by sight alone) of 1953 Chien Léovlle Las Cases is clastic Ludicrous, relentlessly unconvincing, shmalzy, often lazy, clichéd, and very such predating the #metoo movement, A Good Year often hits some bum notes, 8 ‘AGOOD YEAR (2006) Even though Ridley Scotti safe aie of hhands asa ditectr, it sometimes fels that hhe was thinking of the money when he made the film as much as Russell Crowe's often impossible-to-love character Maximilian, And yet..hos not a sucker fora bankers redemption in Provence, surrounded by vines, dilapidated houses, quaint village squates and the relenless sound of crickers? Writer Peter Mayle very much traded off the anglophone’s romantic associations of France ~ and there’ a reason it was success WINE COUNTRY (2019) Is the password sill PenisGrigio72? ‘Tina Fes character Tammy asks ina Napa Valley bar~a line that almost encapsulates the attitude 0 wine in Amy Pochler’s Wine Country, in which six middle aged friends spend along birthday weekend in Napa Valley. Sometimes cringe awkward, sometimes hilarious (the “no wrong answers tasting scene is very well done), winos can find added entersinment spotting the locations and the parade of wine labels chat get SOMM 3 (2018) ‘A companion piece to Bottle Shock and starring central protagonist and loveable rogue Steven Spurice (in real life) alongside one of the world’s top wine critics, Jancis Robinson MW, and (now disgraced) US top sommelice Fred Dames. Narrated by Wine Folly’s Madeleine Puckere with a host of impressive tasters and commentators, you can forgive the sometimes overly dramatic presentation (and Dames’ presence) in favour of lot of wine tasting and a lot of sores 28 WORLD OF WINE -WTOP 10 WINE FILMS [EZ MoNpovino (2004) >) Probably more ofa wine insider's A filo chan viewing forall che family, “Mondovi is also a est of even the most ardent swine lover's staying power, clocking in at just shy ‘of tice hours long. Nonetheless, ts importance and impact is hard to overstate, asi brought all manner of issues to the fore, from the slobalistion of taste an che power of wealth and class systems to issues around inheritance, authenticity and talent. In many ways the lm sec the scene for wine's counter-culture and the natural wine movement to flourish BOTTLE SHOCK (2008) Steven Spurtier hated the way he Tas portayed by Alan Rickman in this film but i still makes for some fantastic ‘cinema, Spurrier is the clichéd Brie abroad this ime eying to navigate the burgeoning California wine scene. There are some ‘memorable moments (alehough the film neve convincingly shakes the notion that to make reat wine, ou have to be born into it) and, of cours, some fantastic acting by Rickman, Al of which makes this a highly watchable film that, importantly, crosses the gap between wine nerd-dom and popular appeal Ie als easy to forget that, ity years ago, what was considered fine wine mainly just stayed within che borders of France, let alone beyond Europe. This is portrayal of one of the pivotal moments in wine history. 7) SIDEWAYS (2004) Sideways is special in that i proved A Jou can make film about people that i also about wine, successfully dropping ‘oo middle-aged California miss ico Santa Barbara wine country and havin ‘one expound at length on Pinot Noir I's breakup movie in which protagonist Miles (fantastically portayed by Paul Giamatti) begin to rebuild hie world one cellar door ata time, Single-handedly responsible for a decline in Merlo’s popularity in the US (CT'm not drinking any F***ing Merlo is one of Miles’ more memorable lines), it also showcased the “thin skinned” beauty of Pinot Noir and proved itis okay to drink a redemptive Saint-Emilion Grand Cru from polystyrene cup ina fart food joint. (7) BACK TO BURGUNDY (2017) Tee prodigal son recurns —wo the Z Eamily domaine in Burgundy. Afeer a decade travelling, and setting up a winery in Australia, Jean comes back to join bis brother and sister in Burgundy, setting out together following the death oftheir father. ‘Warm, sentimental, heartbreaking and funny, it nonetheless remains so far the best representation of harvest work (both in the vines and in the cella) in a big-screen setting. Lavish shor, i also features a rea-ife vigheron: in this ease the Meursaut-based Jean-Mare Roulot (who, 38 wel a making critically lauded wines from the Cate de Beaune has aside-huste as an actor). Ie also heh sas mac alg th hou wissen ih mie A, uNcoKeD (2020) (L_ tim hs ft Sine_nd prof he ase Sommce Atlin ove he heros Memphis BQ jon Ths Nein lm woul fe op ofthis for deg none ls tha Ie Sine hark ae jah ds to wanting to become a sommelier) and ie combines a numberof classic wine film 0p enjoyment (Barolo and dominees ina hotel room), spins on wine chat (Riesling isthe ‘quivalent ro Drake, Pinot Gris is Kayne and Chardonnay is Jay-Z) and wine-as-tavel. Is ‘one law is that i suffers from the sume defect 3: Family expectations, moments of as Somm: it has a endency to sap the joy and the love from wine through its portrayal of wine study. Study has a near-universal habit of ble to:memorise che 13, doing that and bei wine regions of Germany does not help you appreciate German wine to any greater degre. Bur i's beausflly shor and the dialogue is relentlessly sharp. Fantastically acted, i's poignant, funny, hopeful and heart-warming, Well worth 140 minutes of your time (ideally slongride some brisket and a glass of Barolo) RLD OF IE WINTER 2022. 29ELAINE CHUKAN BROWN 30 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022ELAINE CHUKAN BROWN, Elaine Chukan Deum ATOUR DE FORCE IN THE AMERICAN WINE SCENE, ELAINE CHUKAN BROWN IS A SPEAKER, TASTER AND WRITER, COVERING ALL ASPECTS OF THE WINE INDUSTRY (AND OFTEN BEYOND). SHE'S ALSO A HUGE FAN OF NEW ZEALAND AND ITS WINES. CAM SITS DOWN FORA GLASS WITH THE INSPIRATIONAL WINE EDUCATOR. and on heart Elaine Brown isone of the most eloquent inspirational and gifted speakers now, She speaks honesty, with passion and conviction; has educated me and ‘many others about wine and connecting ‘wine with and to people. Listening ro Elaine's speech at Pinot Noir NZ. 2017 ~ a three-day event for wine producers, writers and fans of Pinot to meet, taste and discuss Pinot ~ was inspirational, edueational and honest Pinot Noie NZ. 2017 my wife, Janet, myself and Elaine have become fiends, catching up a often as posible chank ‘goodness for email, Bur when travel allows, a face-to-face in the USA is always organised. ‘The opportunity co weave Elaine’ perspective ‘on New Zealand's wine sector and introduce her to you atthe same time isan honour. We {got together on a Zoom mid-April to tlle about New Zealand wine and how well we are doing on the global wine stag, bane Chukan Brown isa writer, speaker, and educator specialising in wine, personal empowerment, and social justice She is che executive editor for USA wine at JancisRobinson.com, Prior to her career in ‘wine, Elaine served asa Charles A Eastman Fellow at Dartmouth College and is also a Tomlinson Fellow at McGill University where she completed doctoral work in philosophy. Elsine is Aleut-Inupiat, an Alaska Nacve Elaine travels and works for wine with her home base in California {asked Elaine what makes New Zealand come ‘upin conversation inthe frst place ~ what are ‘we known for rally? Elaine at the Pinot Nor 2017 Conference in Welington, New Zealand (eredit:NZ Winegrowers) "A big drivers that New Zealand isa very special, beutiful place ~ even people who dont really know much more chan New Zealand exists know tha is a eauifl place te be. There’ an imagined partys people ae really curious about Maori culeute; and there's a perception that New Zealand has this impli spisicualiey.” When it comes to wine, what s the curent reputation of New Zealand wine froma consumer's perspective, are we known fr this? ‘Generally speaking, the average consumer absolutely knows New Zealand makes good wine, reliable and delicious” Is Sauvignon Blanc stil the leading variety {for New Zealand wine inthe USA? ‘Absolutely itis, consumers may not necessarily know regions or that it might be Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but they do know its New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.” ‘What about Pinot Noir? "Once you stare talking to che more serious wine drinker then they know there's Pinot Noie from New Zealand, Many of ther love it.” What about Chardonnay then, i there any traction inthe market for ths variety? This is a variexy that i alr farther dawn the list. New Zealand does male great Chardonnay and ic keeps geting beter and bere, but «lor of people are less driven to seck out ‘Chardonnay from other regions. The curious trade do want co know more chan that though, Incerestingly, they ge excited about NZ Syrah and Rising: they know you grow Cabernet, but dont necessarily know more than that” So, what about styles such as sparkling or ‘sweet win, are they usta dream for us fr the US market? “New Zealand makes beautiful examples of these wines and they definitely have a future, but we have to do more co make people ware of them. Sparkling especialy garners similse interest to Riesling but only very invested trade are aware of sparkling wine from New Zealand.” ‘You are the only person | know that creates tasting notes through art as well asin a written form, how did you develop the tasting notes as art? (6ee picture) “When I ist started inthe wine sector I noticed that the way in which professionals or the rade {ORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 34ELAINE CHUKAN BROWN HPeercr Atcerie J DELICATE EWouGH To her pistune te Byer sre sie TN | zee vitae Blanc oe pane Mie Tse ceuay eth, exer eeu noes = eevnsr ean = Ciao £ © eR Renn “OE APE 3 $ iN THE MOUTH: a + LigHTLy peop iy THE MouTH + 3 “ICN Presson, ogucnte BUBRES H +YERy AY eure sarrzeyene 2 MEE 0. 2 cuanencne gi s _ Moor ren . Pierre Gimonnet se mineeans + = AFils. . . I= Seeman sovsreaes ~ ens ty Jame ee IE 1 MEYER LEMON je NOSE: LignT SCENTS oF SOY x S LIGHTER THAN AIR BRIOCHE © [2 LOVER'S Tense ‘Sone eorree One of Elaine's ustrated tasting notes talked about sy, the conversitions I was having with friends ‘who liked wine. I had this experience with wo fiends who asked me to pick a wine because they ad decided I would know i was good, so I picked a wine ~a German Sekt (sparkling Riesling) ~a very aromatic version, My fiends loved it and when I said it smelled like jasmine they were al ig-eyed, smelled it again, and said ‘yuie right. Iehadnit occurred to me that they idole thinks abou what chey were smelling — they just liked it. Then one of them said ‘T wish you were always with me when T drink wine it always makes so much more sens’ ‘on to explain, “when we have visual cues the information can go in fast, like phorographs or drawings or fl, visual ine was quite diferent from, Elaine we ‘cues ae instant, not like the traditional form ‘of written tasting notes. [started drawing tasting notes for a friend's wine bar and thie just caught on, Another friend confided in me and said thac its so great to know what a wine actualy tastes like before I buy it. Elaine has also produced many wine-ar pieces that now hanging in peoples homes. {asked Elaine if she thought regional styles ere apparent in our Pinot Noir? "There's absolutely regionality for Pinot Noir; broadly speaking there's also a New Zealand character for Pinot, but I lso think ‘hac in differene parts of the wine world, wine has signatures of acidity ~ you can identify these and use them as a marker to help identify a place, Acidity in New Zealand wine is high toned and elevated, but with a diffusing lens on it, i softens around the edges. Elaine also ment ed that wine producers in New Zealand are “really ering into their own, there’ a greater confidence ot carey in what does this place give me’, that really ‘exciting to me. [remember tending a red swine seminar in NZ, we were tasting through certain wines and I could sce tha they were a reflection of where they were from, while some other attendees there were just comparing the wines to other places in the world. I was witnessing a pivotal moment for [New Zealand ~ this region keeps coming into itself and i’ just going to get clearer" | asked Elaine about the trend into low oF zero alcohol wines, was there a similar trend inthe US? “There ae some large-scale producers in the US who use reverse-osmosis to de-alcoholise wine, [havent yet tasted any I felt were sucessful, There’ a small-scale producer here that has partially fermented verjus to three percent alcohol, isa nice wine for brunch." laine’s travel schedule fr the ret of the year is busy: leading tastings and seminars in Canada, Washington DC, Copenhagen, Pais and Texas. She recently completed a Zoom-in tasting and seminar in Japan from her home. Just as we fished our chat she popped into the conversation that she'd jus ished tasting ‘over 90 hybrid wines from all over the USA, “There is much to lear from Elaine and ifyou have the opportunity inthe furure to attend a seminar or tasting led by her, encourage you to do so. Ifyould like ro read more about Elaine and listen to her speech from Pinot 17, please visit hups:// ‘wakawakawinereviews.com/2017/03/08/ Facure-communication-pinot-noirnz/ 32, WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022‘thi Zl INT hell MIXED VALUE CASE SUBSCRIPTION FRENCH RED. CASE SUBSCRIPTION confirm their contact and delive start them on their subscription, You can view your case before itis sent, as well as having the option of changing something out. Using the knowledge, experience and connections we've developed over more than seven decades, we select the best wines, beers and spirits possible for the best value. Regular delivery is at times tailored to suit you, with freight included on all deliveries. Our quality assurance means that you can return the selection, no questions asked. You can skip a month, or cancel at any time before your case ships. You can take a break from your case plan at any stage.HOW APPELLATIONS WORK You say Indication, I say M ppellation (oNTe re MN a Colt ca Vaan) ANBAUGEBIETE, AVAS, IGTS, PDOS, AOCS cographical Indications (couse the broad term ro describe why your wine has “Central Otago’ on the label ~or "Chablis", “Rioja, "Chianti", “Barossa” and so on) have been in the news recently Iewas the UK wine industy’s adoption ofthe sparkling (licerally and figuratively) new PDO for the Sussex wine region that did it. Effectively codifying sparkling and sill wine production within the ‘county boundaries of East and West Susex, all sores of commentators were triggered ‘Was it necessary? Was ie another step in the UKs march towards global recognition for its wines? Was it pomposity? What about the producers in neighbouring Kene? But what ate geographical indications like PDOs (Procected Designation of Origin -2 term borrowed from the European Union to ‘overall manner of national appelltions and the lke) and how are they implemented? PDOs of Geographical Indications are sclaively sraightforward, They take the political or administrative boundary of an area ‘or ategion and effectively trademark ic —i becomes, in the words of the New Zealand ‘government, a eollexvely owned intelletual property right, In other words, you cane put ‘Weirarapa on your wine label ifless chan 85 percent ofthe wine is from the Wairarapa region, In most PDOs, the Fruit must be catirely from that region, In che majority of eases, the boundaries alteady exist while others, such as the United States’ AVAs (American Viticuleural Areas), ate drawn across regional maps by someone witha ruler Sharpie and a bie of nous In New Zealand (and for most non- European countries), hese PDOs are policed on a national level. They ate selatvely straightforward. The protection of geographical indications is, however, most developed in the EU and here, things are a Tie different While iis indeed che state (more oF less in line with EU law) that upholds PDO laws, their working documents, which outline all the production specifications for chat PDO, are simed atthe regional level, These stipulations ate known by diffrent names: Cahier des (Charges in France; Disciplinate di Produzione in Italy o Pliego de Condiciones in Spain. By and large, they follow the same general cutline and while we might be able to look up S, INDICATIONS, DENOMINATIONS, PGIS - HOW EXACTLY DO THEY WORK? how to read French of an ltalian wine label ‘on the internet and get a general sense of what to expect, the nitty-gritty of what goes on behind a tile lke Chablis or Clos de Vougeot, is left tothe Cahier des Charges ‘While mose people get about by saying ‘white Burgundy i basically Chardonnay (ich pethaps some Aligoréchrown in) dhe Cahiers are clear-cut. The geneal statement is crue: most white Burgundy is Chardonnay ~ for ‘mos appellations it is stipulated as such, But 4 Bourgogne blanc can be Chardonnay and! ‘or Pinot Blanc and can have up to 30 percent Pinot Gris. Even Burgundy's ubiquitous red variety, Pinot Noit, does nor necessarily reign alone. The Musigny Grand Cru appellation allows up to 15 percent Chardonnay, Pinot Blane and Pinot Gris in its ted wines. If you're not already enjoying the pedantry, look away now. “The French Cahier des Charges (and its EU equivalents) follow broadly the same format. Each one is divided into three ‘chapters: (1) viticulture and production; (2) labeling; and (3) saliene points (and their auditing/contrl). For our purposes, the fst chapter i the most important. 34 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022HOW APPELLATIONS WORK Sections 1 and 2 of chapter one cover the name ofthe appellation and any sub- hheadings or appended tiles. For instance, Burgundy isnot a pyramid — an oft-used simplification of Burgundian appellations ‘employed in wine schools — with grand crus atthe cop, premier crus in the middle and the village wines (3, Gevrey-Chambertin) atthe base. Each grand cru vineyard (eg. Le ‘Chambertn) is an appellation of ies own (and has its own Cahier des Charges). premier cru (eg. Clos Saine Jacques) isa possible sub- heading wichin the wider Gevrey.Chambertin appellation. Confused? That's why people use the pyramid analogy ‘Section 3 covers the allowed types of wines and thei colours. This is relatively straightforward (Champagne, for instance, must be sparkling and white ot rose). It goes ‘without saying that anything outside ofthese stated parameters does not qualify your wine for the tse. A sill white wine or sparkling deep rod wine cannot call itself Champagne. ‘Section 4 defines the area and zaning of not only the vineyard in question, but also the immediate neighbouring area. he later ‘ean be important as while the grapes must ‘only come from the vineyard in question, if your winery is notin the immediate neighbourhood (and this can vary widely from region to region), it will lose the right ro use that vineyard tie, Section 5 covets the permitted grapes (ometimes broken down into principal and accessory varieties) a5 well as cher proportions within the vineyard. In Vougeot, for instance, whites can be made from Chardonnay oF Pinot Blanc while reds are principally Pinot [Noir bur up to 15 percent can be made up of (Chardonnay, Pinot Blane and/or Pinot Gris. Section 6 covers vineyard management. “This can get very granular, covering plantation density, permitted pruning and training systems (down go maximum buds per vine) and the latest poine at which pruning can take place, maximum vine and post heights, ‘maximum yield, maximum proportion of missing vines and general presentation, Other aspects such as cultural practices (.g, methods of weeding, pruning precautions, etc.) can also be outlined as well as whether oF not inrigation is permitted. Section 7 covers harvest and transport. “This is relatively sraightforward but docs give the minimum sugar levels (and potential alcoho! levels) ofthe grapes at harvest. Section 8 covers maximum yields (no small mater as pressing a white wine to hard could result in decasiicaion) and outlines when young vines are permitted their first harvest ‘under that appellation cil Section 9 covers production and winemaking, This section can vary widely in sie and focus depending on the region (Champagne, for instance, goes into great detail about press size and conformiry). By and. large, hough, th and banned equips fermentation, residual sugar, volatile acidity, cenrichmentlchaptalisation, eank capacity and ageing requirements. The section also covers ‘whether or not (and ifso, when) wines can be ttansported from location to location (he. for bocding or blending) and when said wines ean be released onto the market Seetion 10 chen goes into the geographic, ‘cultural and historical makeup ofthe appellation. ‘Section 11 covers any legislation currently in force and its current application and cutoff date. For instance, it might highligh that while plantation densiy is equired 0 be x, this does not apply co vines planted prior toa certtin date Finally, setion 12 covers labeling. For instance the words Bordeaux o Médoc ‘cannot be more than two thirds the size of Pauillae on the label of a wine bearing the latte appellation, ‘And that's what your average European PDO covers. I's abo, toa degre, the model the new Sussex PDO has followed, and the ‘evident constraints have eft some searching their heads, Are such protections/stictures necessary? Even in Europe, where global ‘warming has pushed the likes of Bordeaux ro allow new, more drought-resistant grape varieties on an experimental b debate continues. overs blending proportions a8 well as malolactc WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 35PROMOTIONAL FEATURE HAWKE'S BAY IS NEW ZEALAND'S FOOD AND WINE COUNTRY. ith mild Mediterancan climate, varied and produces ap itshould come as no surprise thar wine and dine experi abound, As the oldest and second-largest wine growing region, abound in Havke's Ba has a dedicated domestic and international while known fr its ull feaur-styl rds, Hawke's Ba also produces world-class Chardonnay and aromatic white wines. How that grows fiom the only thing region also produces an abundance of fesh product, lading New Zealand! eukivation of olives, squash az, apples, and mo Ie isthe combination ofthe food and wine tat ateracts exceptional producers and ats, peaches, nectarines, plums, igs atisans, winemakers and chefs tothe distic ar they srk quality champion provenna aed make the mot ofthe easonal bounty in their own backyard The rl ia tus sense of place wich every el and each ga "And in the land of the long lnch cwand-winning urbane Buc with so many options ro choose from, 36 WINTER 2022PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Crogsy Range Cellar Door offers a sophisticated wine 4a ‘tasting experience. CY (CRAGGY RANGE, HAVELOCK NORTH Trapossible vo go wrong with Australasia's leading winery, Craggy Range always delivers an incredible winery dining experience. There is litle beter than enjoying a glas of Craggy Range’ finest wine while looking up at che spectacular Te Mata Peak. Visi the Cellar Door fora tasting of theie Family or prestige wines; be in awe of the sheer byilance ofthe Sophia Bartel Rooms or head straight co the eworhatted Craggy Range Restaurant, where Head Chef (Casey McDonald's emphasis on quality local produce ensures you ae eating the very best that Hawke's Bay Food and Wine Country has to offer Recently listed 11th in the world by Worlds Best Vineyard awards, Craggy Range od Winery Restaurant of the Year and awarded two hats in the 2022 Cuisine Good Food Awards, {ORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 37PROMOTIONAL FEATURE (CENTRAL FIRE STATION, NAPIER ‘Cental Fite Station Bistro co-owner and executive chef Sam Clark (formerly of Clooney in Auckland) ison a culinary mission ro create simple food usin the freshest, locally grown. produce His bisto syle restaurant launched in late 2019, and itis here that he showcases the very best Hawkes Bay poe 90% of which "Dining ar the two-hateed restaurant is an exceptional experience lark crfly eet and the cleats singe whl the wine lo ‘howess etry Haws By wines, pting Selinown fivouriter longs botiue wines You neo flim love wth lousd ina lovingly tenoatd Are Deo fre sation bul, his senning moder iso slr he woof te lt Fn, cag the bell worer and gan archways fore engines Centra Fire Station Bistro serves up lake's Bayona plate CHURCH ROAD WINERY, NAPIER ‘Whether enjoying a wine and platter on the lunch in the restaurant, ot discovering the tour experience, Church Read Winery is ruse-visit for ocnophiles ‘AcChurch Road, the regions wine story it at the fore, particularly daring their prem, twochour TOM Experience. Here you can discover Church Roads iconic TOM with an intimate wine tasting within the range winery's underground museum. Be expertly guided through current and back vintage TOM wines as you explore the philosophy and character oftheir agship range, all while enjoying selectively matched savoury bites. The wine ' winemaking philosophy, combining traditional influences with innovative lar, is seen throughout their cellar door and restaurant experience too, where visitors are defly guided through wine tastings and dining experiences 38 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022PROMOTIONAL FEATURE (CLEARVIEW ESTATE WINERY, TE AWANGA, HASTINGS Sieuated on the Te Awangs coat, Clearview Estate i one of New Zealand conic coastal wineties, and a frm favourite of families thanks to its relaxed aemosphere and funky playground, Showcasing the fll ange of Clearview Estate wines, the restaurant specialises in brunch, lunch and seasonal tasting plasters, in the sun “Thais a care men reflects Hawke's Bay's diverse and productive region. Dishes are simply prepared using the finest seafood, dairy, meat and seasonal produce, and combined with olives, avocados, cers and hers from the onsite gardens “The ally fenced playground is hic with kids, while adler relish che vineyard views and coastal surrounds. 'ASKERNE WINERY, HAVELOCK NORTH, HASTINGS Ac Askerne Winery, they do things alive dierenly and i realy is working wonders. Commited to producing clegant, ie wines the unique location ofthe vineyard allows ito produce an extensive range of award-winning wines rom aromatic whites ofall hodied Bordeaux blends and Syeah. lowever, Askerne are posibly best known for thee lesser wines, which isa good thing, a dessert is an all- day afc here Launched late lst yea, Asker’ dessert tasting experience lets you sample selection of the wwinerys award-winning desert wins alongside delicious biresized descr. TF youle not aswect tooth, the winery also docs build you-own picnics that vistors can put together themscves ‘before choosing the best picnic spot among the vines. and is che perfect place fora relaxed afternoon ‘Clearview Estates Known forts wine, ood and stunning coastal locaton. MISSION ESTATE, NAPIER ‘The oles winery Nev Zealand provides a Offering legane, clase surroundings, sagiftear ving: dlicioes cabize cd wins Combined withthe stunning vineyard location Mision Restaura ia destination venue [Neste inthe Taraal hls, diners tthe Minion Exe Rearat enjoy sweeping views of Napier city andthe coat beyond. Beau by day and spectacular by night, he outdoor dining terace is drenched in summer sun wile the indoor reaurant spaces have ben cleverly designed vo provide intimate dining. With only the feses loa produce used and Mision Estate wins ready avallbe, thst a ase Hawk's Bay din experience, WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 39ey Rony ns Per eee Page 47 Other whites Loree eae Page 54 Red blends 4 Page 56 Other reds f . ore reas Page 60 Cameron's Best of 2022 (so far) - WINE POINTS SYSTEM era ear eee Canes Ce rete Cree ree ey 90 - 94 Outstanding: 3 ine of superior eee ee) eh 85- 89Very Good: a wine wi special qualities (0.5 - 4 Sta) Ceo ee ee bs EeeTASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC Blue hae backbone of the New Zealand wine sector is Sauvignon Blanc. The demand for this commodity is increasing, especially internationally, and hile this i excellent for che reputation of New Zealand wine, ie does ome with several challenges. Not che leat of which is maintaining quality, expectation of styles) and pricing Sauvignon Blane i elaively easy to ripen in mos eglons around Aotearoa and its signatare herbaceous, cirus and topical fui aromas along with piercing acidity are recognisable with most examples. At volume, however, this can begin to dilate favours and complexity, so one ofthe challenges forthe industry willbe ro maintain quality ax demand (and volume) increases. There is also an increasing demand for vegan-fendly, ‘organi, and biodynamic examples ‘Both 2020 and 2021 have been excllen yeas for Sauvignon Blanc and tasting through a numberof new-release 2022s, you should easily find quality wines at vatious price points. If there are any sub-$20 2020 let in your wine eel, my suggestion i 0 dink up. Nery al the caly-rlease 2022 wines Ihave tasted punch above cheir weight Gone well above) in terms of concentration, purity, balance and complexity Sauvignon Blanc is evolving too. notice more texture, mouthfel snd layering from les contact, skin-contact for some; use of older bates of varying izes for ferment, ageing or both for others. Unsurprisingly, Marlborough remains the largest regional producer of Sauvignon Blanc with over 295,000 ronnes crushed, fllowed by Hawke's Bay with over 12,422 tonnes, ‘Then, in decreasing order: Nelson, Gisborne, North Canterbury and the Wairarapa, WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 44TASTING NOTES SAUVIG JON BLANC ] {ith Sate Tete 6 Glory Semignon Bane 2016, ‘Marlborough Complex a and white pea bouquet with aromas of grapefruit pale and sage with lees and compeling barrel ferment and raw cashew-nut complexities. Delicious fn the palate - sil developing and synergsing, so some colar time ahead ifyou tke although i stil offers immediate rinkabilty eal drinking from 2¢ 95 Points RRP $65.00 mmariscocomnz 022 through 2028, >) Loveblock TEE No Added Sulphur Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough Complex and detaie, youthful and vibrant. Fa ‘rapetrit and fine lees, yellow apple and goosebe and a stony mineral notes Sky textures on the poate with acidity and yo nul energy offering contrat and style wating, with a ingles. Balanced, efteshing snd well made 94 Points RRP $29.99 loveblockwine.com oe of fruit. alight saline quality adds to st 2 The King’ Series A Sticky End Noble Sa Blane 2021, Marlborough ‘Avery noble bouquet with cents of honey stone fruits, pineapple and pear, ery creamy and sky on ve palate with flavours that reflet the bouguet plus a opical rt and fresh herb quality reflecting the variety. Sweet, with contrasting acy and acore of fut favours. Delicious and creamy with best crinking from day of purchase through 2027+ 94 Points RRP $31.99 she Ned Noble Sovignom lc 2021, Maco A striking pa pple tart to apc tar then brown sugar, sweet gooseberry and baked pineapple. Some light, cried herb qualities reflect the variety ad add complexity. Very sweet but decadent and luscious with contrasting acicty and fayours of swe os, tropical fruits ied hers. Lengthy and delicious wit best drinking from dayo purchase through 2027 94 Points RRP $25.99 na Marrs Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough Plush ie, faty and varietal, Aromas an flavours of asl and fruit pice. Vibrant, ity with a saline and it Navours reflect the bough lees-ike complexity Well made and ready to cof purchase and though to end of summer 2024 93 Points RRP $21.99 blackmarketcomnz fet and there's a fine 42 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC GRaminsten Sanvgnen Blane 2021, Maiborongh Detasc and pungent herbs and grapefruit. green apple and green gooseberry flesh. On the palate thew speaks inthe same loud voice wth more tropical ru flavours and lemon, The herbaceous «quality remains potent, s does t wath acy and freshness caring all. Delicious an new with great drinking from 2 193 Points RRP$24.99 {framingham.conz spe an gooseberry, “7 Leefeld Station Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough Froral and pure-fuited bouquet with scents of pear, sect lemon, res green herbs and a salty mineral complexity. ‘Gis, herbaceous ad fruity with awibrant, almost sky, asted bya fresh archaea ready to drink upon purchase and through 202: 198 Points RRP $21.99 tenture favours of » Loveblock Sauvignon Blane 2021, Marlborough Otavoues of fresh citrus, cried hers, hay an basi, with ane lees layer highlighting mineral, ctrus and peach, “There's alsa a white blossom note, then scents of ple ‘and tropical ruts, A satin texture with contrasting ait, smooth lengthy fnish and.a delicious, fresh appeal Well ‘made and ready to drink from 2022 through 2 193 Points RRP $26.99 loveblockwine.com (King’s FevourStignon Blane 202, Marlborough Afourish of ripe and tropical fruit flavours of ma Salivating crisp and fruity on the palate, reflecting the fruit favours suggested by the bouquet. Balanced, rus, Cape gooseberry, fresh heros 1 and fruit punch, well made and ready. Bes drinking from purchase and through end of summer 2024, 193 Points RRPS21.99 smariscoco.ne 1 Sag enemas ners, ) Marlborough ‘Acdassic bouquet and palate with aromas and flavours ‘of white peach, fresh green herbs, apple, bell pepper pineapple and wet stone minerality, There's a layer o lees and a touch of fut spice layering-ina whisper ‘of compleity to an already lovely expression. Crisp, salivating efreshing and just dry. Great drinking fom day (of purchase through 2024 ‘92 Points RRP $19.99 saintelaincanz bouquet with aromas of fresh green ° THE KING'S Favow WORLD OF WINE WINTER 202243TASTING NOTES CHARDONAY hat has long been regarded as che “asi” butery creamy, oak, not s0-dry and highish alcohol version of Chardonnay remains a very popular expression. One key reason why this remains is because i aversion that has inherent atibures wine drinkers lve, with aromas and favours of baking spices, ripe stone rats, a sense of sweetness and a creamy texture that our palate weleomes ex Chardonnay is changing too, and expressions fom individual producers are varied asthe soils, vineyard conditions and interpretations of syle across Aotearoa. With an average vine age of renty-ive years for many Aoscaroa producers the quality, concentration and potential (in conjunction with cxcellene harvest condivons) offers winemakers more scope ro craft syle and expression thar can find many followers ~ me included. ‘While oak and chardonnay are great friends, the demand for new barrel favours has lesened recently in favour of complexity and mouthfeel, also making fod matches easier to find too. The use of alternative Fermentation vessels such as amphorae or concrete eggs, as well as litle to no oak at all, adds nother dimension to a wine that many wine drinkers lve to taste and discuss “The opportunity for producers to reese diferent expresions of chardonnay reflecting the voce of vineyard and region i gathering ‘momencum as wine drinkers, wine ertcs and connoiscurs of the variety sek tore expressive examples. This also means that your go-to person for wine advice shoul be ready with a sound knowledge of producers and sje. Nex time you have the opportunity to atend a Chardosinay tating event, say ys ‘The syes detailed inthis section will also help you explore Chardonnay in your own ime. (44 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022TASTING NOTES CHARDONAY Sti The Fem Chardonnay 202, Marlborough ‘Avery alluring bouquet with ayers of white-feshed fruits, sweet citrus anda fnty mineral quality, sy complexity ‘Absolutely Fantastic on the palate with delicious, ‘seamless and complex favours, Mauthwatering ‘acidity ad fine wood tannins deliver a fine 3 spices, flowers an routhfel with a core rmineral quality as complesity and length, Oaks judiciously usec adding just enough complexty and Structure. An excellent example, good to drink from tday, but wl be better from 2023 through 2030+ ‘96 Points RRP $80.00 astrolabewines.comnz fruit and favour. The Askerne Reserve Chardonnay 2021, Hawke's Bay ‘Complex and new with aromas oF white stone fruits and grapetut alongside aight gunnt quality Layers of complesty come from use of oak as well fine lees adding 2 mineral and stony-earth quality ‘Weighty onthe palate with fullad richly favoured taste package. Oak ad spice weave between 2 cre cfr from cts to peach to apple and pea. Fixe fruit tannins and acidity offer foundation and contrast. ‘A delcius, satie-textured wine ready from late 2022, through 2028: 195 Points RP $34.90 askernewines.conz Astrolabe Chardonnay 2020, Marlborough A complex, sophisticated, pure, ripe and very Centicing bouquet. Azomas and flavours of apple and srapetnit, white peach and white apricot, There's a natural fruit pice quality, sea breeze scent and ‘youthful impact from the intensity and use of cok Delicious, weighty. engaging and fresh onthe pal A near ful-bodied texture, some fine tains and plenty of acidity for structure and breadth. ong finish, complex and delicous it wil cellar and age for two ta three years. Best drinking from mic 2023 through 2030+ 195 Points RRP $32.00 astrolabewines.co.nz Blank Canvas Reed Vineyard Chardonnay. 2020, Marlborough Excelent, with immediately captivating aromas of stone fruits and avec citrus, a lesy savoury spice, ‘and stony nty complexity. The oak ads layers ‘of pice and some wood smoke. The bouquet is complex, byered and enticing. On the palate, ‘of weight, icnness, power and finesse with layers of tecture and a core of fruit electing fresh and baked stone fruits, grapefruit, baked apple and baking spices of French oak Well made and ready to crink from 2022 through 2028, 195 Points RRP $45.00 blankeanvaswines.com AGRE Greywacke Chardonnay 2019, Marlborough ‘A totally captivating bouquet laced with aromas ‘of baked stone fruits and wood spices. There's 2 mineral quality that ss jst beneath scents of ‘2p and white peach, baking spices and a fine fit quality. On the palate: a wine of texture ‘and complexity, some battonage toastiness and 3 long weiahty, rsh. Complex and youthful textured and dry - a wine that wil continue to-age and develop, drinking best from 2023 through 2090. 95 Points RRP $45.00 sreywacke.com ‘Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Chardonnay 12021, Marlborough Fabulous bouquet with complesity and power 8 core of barrel spices, aw cashew nut, roasted vellov-fleshed stone fruits, story eath and natural, seductive charm. youthful wine with ‘8 mix of fresh and roasted stone fruits, new and ‘aged wood favours, tannin and acid texture, then grapefnits and spice. Ful-bodied with ‘youthful energy anda salivating mouthfeel A delicious wine that needs cele time to develop ‘and settle in, Best inking from late 2023, through 2029+ 95 Points RRP $28.00 lawsonsdryhils.co.nz ‘Mount Brown Estates Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2020, North Canterbury Fantastic bouquet with aromas of gunmetal and leesys ted ut, roasted stone fruits thul and very youthful fresh, complex and full of Navour and texture Fruit and wood favours reflect the bouquet, accentuated with chalky tannins, medium-plus acidity and toasty rust complet. Well made and ready to crn rom 2022 trough 2029. 95 Points RRP $30.00 ‘mountbrownco.nz QoWine Cardona 221, Wn Valley Fresh, fragrant and complex. Deghtully fruit with ited fragran core of minerality, and local notes, Prfecty placed use of bare! influences for complexity ‘and styl. Satin mouthfeel with a core of mineral and fut favours from pear to apple, white and yellow peach to grapefruit. Very fine tannins and a backbone of acidity. Complex and very lang. A delight. Realy to dink from 2022 through 2028. 95 Points RRP $50.00 qwineco.nz es of white Nesh fruits, WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 45TASTING NOTES CHARDONAY Scifced Winemakers Collection Barrique Fermented Chardonnay 2020, Nelson ‘Abold youthful bouquet with aromas of elderflower then white fleshed stone fruits, citrus, coasted nut and brown spices. Complex, youthful and inviting. Equally fresh {and vibrant on the palate, there's tension and poise, a lovely core of fruit then layers of fruit ‘and wood tannins, aidty and silky cream textured intensity. Best drinking from late 2022 through 2028+ 195 Points RRP $35.00 seifiedconz LORE Deg ee stony 8% Hawke's Bay Youthful vibrant and fresh with enticing complexity. Aromas of ripe nectarine and _rapefrit then sweet new-bare scents of aw sugar and sweet tobacco, Ful- bole, fut, varietal and complex on the palate with Brazil rut and peach favours. There's a clayey mineral quality and favours of crus, baked apple and \wood spices Some fine tannins anda medium: lus acid ine. Quite delicious and stil drinking ‘young so plenty of development time ahead, Best drinking from 2023 through 2029+. 194 Points RRP $42.99 dnfnewine.co.me {1 eters, Nelson Complex and youthul, varietal and enticing with Scens of fresh peach and quince, red apple and rus custard, vanila and wood smoke, Flavours fellow through to the palate seamiessy with contrasting ait, Braz ut ad burnt bute, ‘vanilla and lesy baking spice with fuller bodied mouthfeel Well made, lengthy and dry ‘distinctive exoression with or Best drinking fram 2022 through 2028+. ‘94 Points RRP $35.00 mouterehillscomnz 1] Der Wats Chardonnay 200, Martinborough -Axtractve bouquet of flowers and minerals with Some oyster shell toes and spe stone fruits “Theresa layer of oak with a raw cashew nut butter scent, Finesse and charm, Youthful fresh ‘and delicious onthe palate - dry with favours of rus and tree fruits, 3 core of minerality, 3 ouch gun nt and some new bare, Great acid ine leading to lon, salivating fish. Best drinking from now though 2028+, ‘94 Points RRP $30.00 neawaka.co.nz 1 3s Kies Bard Chardon 2008, Marlborough | ‘Aromas of toasty, roasted peach and vila, Braz nut and Rose Apple witha hint of butterscotch and toasty bare spices. Ful bodied, weighty and creamy in texture on the palate. Flavours of yellow fleshed stone fruits, _topefrut, nu, baking spice and stone, Balanced ‘well made and ready. Chardonnay fans wll warm to tis wine quickly - Ici. Best drinking from 2021 through 2025+ 193 Points RRP $28.99 marisco.comnt |] Garon & Goer Chablis ‘Saint Lau 2020 Bight fresh, mineral and crisp with aromas and flavours of apple and grapefruit lemon and pith with some peach and white flowers. A classic oyster shell mineral quality emerges asthe wine warms in the plas, Crisp and dy with no ak anda salvating acidity. Balanced and well made with a ready-to-drink windows from 2022 through 20: ‘92 Points RRP $46.99 ‘eurovintage.co.nz 15 Sind aCe 200, Pure, fresh, varietal ripe and enticing bouquet shovicasng aromas of white peach and vanil, red apple and aight toasted barel quality with some les complexity Flavours on the palate include grapefruit and apple, peach and baking spices A satin texture with contrasting ac ne ~ lovey balanced example ready for inking from day of purchase through 2026, ‘92 Points RRP $20.00 seiriedconz ‘46 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022TASTING NOTES OTHER WHITES ther whites (Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Gewistramine, new to the market white vatities) ‘Aromatic and semi-aromatic grape varieties can produce wines with power and finesse; seductive sents that can remind you of flowers, peafumes, fleshy juicy feuts and exo, spicy Savours. These wines can ‘be bone-dy through to exceedingly sweet. That means isa Ile harder to match casters tthe right wine ~ but never imposible. “The erm “aromatic” refers oa specific category of white grape varieties that contain an eta set of natural ocating compounds called terpenes. Trpenes can enhance even amplify, the spice, fruit and floral aibutes in an aromatic wine. GGewiraraminet, Muscat and Torrontes are among the most intense and exotic ofthe aromatic varices with favours ranging fom tropical fats to oes and spies ‘My sister in-law docs not like Rien, fr example and refuses wo Buy or ery i, smosly Because she thinks all Risings ate sweet. This noe true ~ some ofthe best Rislings in Aotearoa are dry ‘One ofthe most popular ofthe smsaromatic vate i Pinot Gis, in pat because iis nearly alas avalable bythe gas in restaurants for you to ty (with the der sls sometimes beter with fod). The off-dry to medium styles are well uted to shes with creamy textures such acy sh o pasta with soft proteins A quik check ofa few wine rears online had berween thirty-five and fiy-seven Pinot Gris for sale, tnd several doven avilable with pics ranging from $6.99 a over $60 bottle. ‘Gendretraine is the most inrense and exo ofthe aromatic vats with {avout of topical ris, roses and spies. Deserptors sch as lavender, talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper and even apple stude have been sed to deictibe the wine ‘Chenin Blanc is one ofthe great white grapes ofthe world. It has long been linked to the white wine ofthe Loire Valley in France and lovers of Vouvray ot Savennires vel aest to its brilliance The taste of Chenin Blanc can vary according to growing re and vintage, but Chenin will neal always display an apple character — ‘tie often baked apple. Other Savours may include quince, honey dew melon, a waxy nd wer-hall mineral, chamomile and evn ight chees-rind TF you feel advencurous, try a white blend from the Rkatsiteli and Mesvane varieties grown in Georgia (Europe) wich aromas and favours of fesh crus and pat, white peach and exotic whit spices. Or the Kis vain, also from Georgia, with favours of| pple and apicos, wild ower and honeysuckle anda natu, ley quality. WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 47TASTING NOTES OTHER WHITES | Damsin Rood Vineyard The ac Race Dry Rcting 2020, Conn Ooge Mare Betoun 2020, Sina {a bei RP S270 usta on 7) Astrolabe The Farm Dry ‘quality and light chalky soil layer vB PAR L Riesling 2020, Marlborough peer parereret fey with white ower and honeysuckle falcing in more compexty and plenty a. A silky texture with 2 core ple and white fleshed fits, a ach of citrus Just dy, complex, charming and delicious, Best drinking lemon white flowers and white flesh DOMAIN 10 | peach, On the palate, just dry with a whisper of sweetness which is hardly noticeable with the core of rus and stone frit noes, acidity from 2025 through 20% 95 Points RRP $36.00 deladoucettesr rte mineral Favours. Very so and refesing witha salivating —_ sale effect eading toa dy nish Delicious and drinkable from today with deal inking from 2024 through 2040, 95 Points Askeme Late Harvest Semillon 2019, Hawke's Bay Fantastic bouquet, floral and i © robes cone @ Coo heel ad white 2 Atrolabe Wrekin Chenin Blane andtoted renee tsi Sint, Mesoroogh ; peace aoc sco ‘aromas of apes and peas, wet ‘woo, minerals and ited fragrant floral quality. Youthful, fine and pure. On the palate: intense, youthful, «rsp and just dy, Favours miror the bouquet with baked apple an ‘and spee, brown sugar and golden syrup. Contrasting acy he palate and brings balance to @ lush and intensely flavoured wine cellent drinking from day aP sivates pearand a plush siky purchase through 2 ture with ‘backbone of acidity. A mineral ‘ areas Dose oa Amine mreeo iyer ad oplnyard degth eee ve Dau tka ya : Asker Reserve through 20405 Co OGewurstrminer 2021, Hawke's ssn ane Broo Bay Re $3200 ee. Canola erotic atl and Dstolabnines come Bs cx anntt seductive, nicely complex and fruity, i & Asiky-cream with favours of SS Pepper spice and orcha Peach and apple, some tropic favours and a clayey mineral quality. Lush and fresh flavours pint the palate with con and texture. Adelious wine ready to sting ait, thnk ram 2022 through 2028. 94 Points RRP $29.90 askemewines.conz ‘48 WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022TASTING NOTES OTHER WHITES 7Askeme Semillon 2020, Havwke's Bay Alovely. fragrant bouquet filed with on and wie peach, Lomblock Gewienraminee crectbw/ad swenylenenest | (Z) 1K 0 Serer cota Fern rl sly and secctve scents wth romas of bled ape an white peach, ed herb nd wit peppercor.Sihy text theo ‘wool and floral charm. A coarse sik texture with plenty of aciity is contrasted by the core of ruts and say mouthfeel, Some honeysuckle moments anda fine ayer of ee complexity and length Dry and long on the irish, a delicious pression perfect as an aperitif or for seafood and vege biking from now through 2032". ‘94 Points followed by Navours of white-leshed orchard fits tropical notes and cred herbs. youthful freshness with a lvely acd line and bight, fleshy texture, arian dishes. Best Balanced and well made with a lengthy fnish, Delicious and ready wo 290 from day of purchase through 2026 askenewines.co.nz 99 Points - RRP $26.99 (Pegasus Bay Riesling 2020, loveblockwine.com Son Canterbury Fresh ite peach and fleshy reer apole sents, ite onesie. As the wine opens ui ls the sents of ier anda whisper of beesvax begin to |] Tile tana Meavrali Dry White Wine 2020, Georgia Aromas and favours of fresh citrus and pear, white peach and exotic ‘emerge. Delicious onthe palate, new Se erie textured and with val anda flora note bringin comelexty. Very youthful with plenty of acidity which highlights some mineral qualities. Refeshing, salty, salivating and wll made, With foad to accompany it thisis a wine you should try, Best cnn from sweetness - sik smooth. Accity and minerality work fruit favours and gerle sweetness. Ripe new and delicous with great biking from 2022 through 2030, ‘94 Points ther as does the texture and ra sn0 2022 through 2028 pegasusbay.com 93 Points (lan Vil leks hipefwmmerohiocore! Qvevei 2019, Georgia Made with the Kis variety and wine-white-dry-tsinandalmtavrli 12:750m1 fermentedin Qvevt fa wine showcases aromas and favours of apples and apccots, wildflower ‘and honeysuckle there's acore ‘of minerality and personality with Pst hy it Pinot Noir so popular? The answer, input, comes fons exemplar wines at seduce you cn theft ef They en tapas nae of plc nota of pores (oe for if you pref a deve ofthe hogs precon on the polite the shape, form and posh ~ cen pense of hens and an acid ine theca favour, motel and complex. ‘Pinot Noirs popularity becomes ie clearer when you find chat one wine that does thi co you. Bur finding these special examples where the fun pare ofthe Pinot journey if Tasting and dissing the nuances and story behind w particular Pnocis what ata many wo the ary ened often holds them a loyal fllowee. not Noir isa challenging gape to grow ~ many winemakers and viiculurts would polly say “Bele” Tc is completely dependent upon season, weather conditions 2 flowering, and harvest windows. Then, how a winemaker manages the frit once it arrives at the winery is where the real sill comes in: how much colour and favour is extracted from the fut where the texture highlights descend onthe plates Bere The judicious use of on Forest and cooper can make all the difference when flavours of wood should not overpower the fe and when a wine wil find is seer spor on the palate through gentle winemaking and borage. Awinemaker with aheayy Pinot, losing is sense of tens in fc. Finesse and elegance come from an understanding of how hand can ver prod favour of favour and roo much wood work "The nuances of flowers and fruits messages of oil or mineral notes; sweetness, smoke and spice of oak can all give «Pinos Noir elegance with fines, charm and complexity. “Too much of any single attribute and a wine can lose ite sense of identity. I am simplifying matters a lide, bu if you consider all the impacts from weather, soil and farming to winemaking at volume, the story of Pinot Noir can be a wonderful sensory journey All thae sid, P red fruit Bavours, ne needlepoint tannins, not too much acid ‘or oak, anda lr of personality. El ot isa medium weighted wine with light 50. WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR "| ei Hal Ve ie ie, Central Otago ‘Complex and pure with more than just a varietal bouquet. Layers of scents wth sense of place and te, then aromas of crushed chery ‘and preserved roses, raspbery and a sof ‘savoury thyme note. Seamless onthe palate witha youthful core and structure from fre, needlepoint tannins and aci ine. Plush velvet ‘mouthe! with contrasting plum, chery and bluebery fruit. Qak favours and tannins ae layered throughout the the senses, salivating and adding just a touch ‘of sweetness with ight, smoky baking spices. Fantastic wine wth bes drinking from 2028 ‘through 2030+ 198 Points RRP$75.00 valwine.com ne teasing (Clos Marguerite Pinot Noir 2019, Marlborough Fantastic bougu aromas of winter and palate with very seductive ‘c8es and sweet bare spices, red berry fats, plum and an abundance of sity mineral layers. Complex and youthful. Refined ‘and elegant, distinctive and luscious on the palate. Polshed tannins and aciity form the Foundation for ed berry fits and roses to ‘weave theircharm. lovely example offering ‘excellent drinking from 2022 through 2030+ 196 Points RRP $56.00 ‘losmargueriteco.nz Greywacke Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough There's no mistaking the varietal charm, the Fed berry fut aroma and ‘youthful bouquet. Delicious on the pala 2 core of red fruit flavours, there's a savoury ‘seam accentuating some dred herb qualities and sweeter, toasty oak spice layers. Complexity layers in theough an abundance of potshed tannins anda youthful acid ine, The acicity pulls ‘everything together adding its own texture and freshness to a very lengthy ish, fantastic ‘wine best ceed for another one or two years vith best drinking from 2024 through 2034 ‘96 Points RRP $49.00 sreywacke.com y. Complex and Valli Bannockburn Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, Central Otago ‘varietal, ed berry frit scents with dak cerry and raspberry contrasting fine, savoury ‘qunltiesshoweasing wild thyme and schist. ‘Complex and youthful with sweet baking sice scents from barrel and a sky, smoky quality Delicious on the palate with an abundance Cf palshed tannins anda backbone of acidity ‘echoing the wild and rocky countryside and thyme qualities, The core fruit favours micror the bouquet. Fabulous texture and length. Best clnking from 2023 through 2033, 96 Points RRP $75.00 vallwine.com ‘alli Gibbston Vineyatd Pinot Noir 2020, Central Otago Complex and seductive bouquet with scents Of fallen leaves and dred wid herbs, roses, and cherries. Mineral, spiced with oak and a savoury note. Even better on the palate with texture and barrel spices, a gentle savoury herbs, some vanila and dusty clove s 8 leesy, nutty quality. Complex and length. CChalkytexture tannins and medium-plus the foundation wi and layers of red ies and wild flowers layer in breadth ar plex and ready to enjoy through 2030+, depth, Delicious, from 207 96 Points RRP $75.00 valliwine.com Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, Central Otago uctive, complex and enticing aroma rose and chery, autumn leaves, cried herbs and a mic of red apple skin an tart flesh, The core ofthis isthe minerality with a fine chalky stone quality. Oak scents are calm vet distinctive, Delicious on the palate with 2 ‘ine-textured mouthfeel capturing the fruit and Perfectly balanced wth the structure displaying te fut arth and oak qualities with precision. Charing omplex and lengthy with best drinking from 2023 through 2020. 96 Points RRP $85.00 valliwine.com mineral quate from the bounu Dicey Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2020, Central Otago Floral scents with notes of rose, dark cherry and hei iy. A fine, savoury, ied her ine with thyme and so “The core of fruit ives the bouquet. Quite intense and fesh onthe palate with frit avours that miror the bouquet ‘A savoury seam engages the palate too along fim tannins an acct that aye and structure, Te fish s savoury and mineral With bare! spices adging complesty without clsruatng the story of Pinot Noir. Bes inking ‘rom late 2022 through 2030 95 Points RRP $40.00 diceynz WORLD OF WINE - WINTER 2022 54