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Founding Editors:
G. M. Friedman, Brooklyn and Troy
A. Seilacher, Tübingen and Yale
Sérgio R. Dillenburg · Patrick A. Hesp
Geology
and Geomorphology
of Holocene Coastal
Barriers of Brazil
123
Dr. Sérgio R. Dillenburg Dr. Patrick A. Hesp
Universidade Federal do Louisiana State University
Rio Grande do Sul Dept. Geography & Anthropology
Instituto de Geociências Baton Rouge LA 70808
Av. Bento Gonçalves 9500 227 Howe Russell Complex
Porto Alegre-RS USA
Brazil pahesp@lsu.edu
sergio.dillenburg@ufrgs.br
For all Lecture Notes in Earth Sciences published till now please see final pages of the book
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Preface
This is the first book to cover the Holocene geology and geomorphology
of the 9,200 kilometers of the Brazilian coast. It is written for third and
fourth year undergraduates, post-graduate students, scientists and manag-
ers. It characterizes the Brazilian coast in terms of the Holocene geology,
geomorphology, oceanographic and climatic conditions, and the location,
morphology and evolution of the barrier types. Separate chapters outline
the types of barriers and coastal dynamics in each state, beginning in the
south and proceeding to the north. Some emphasis is placed on the
stretches of coast where the detailed morphology and stratigraphy of bar-
riers has been previously determined.
To date, the Brazilian coastal barriers have been largely ignored by the
international community, partly perhaps because much of the past research
has tended to concentrate on barrier islands, of which there are very few in
Brazil. In contrast, the Brazilian coastal barriers display a much wider
range of types than is generally assumed. The biggest and most spectacular
transgressive dunefield barriers in the world exist in Brazil, and dominate
the southern and northeastern coasts. Many have never been described be-
fore.
This volume provides a wealth of information on Holocene barrier
types, evolution and dynamics. It provides managers, ecologists, biologists
and botanists with much needed information on the geology, geomorphol-
ogy and dynamics of the genesis, types, functioning and ecosystems of the
Holocene barriers extending along the entire Brazilian coast.
The book has eleven chapters, written by thirty contributors. Each one is
an outstanding researcher in coastal environments, Holocene geology
and/or geomorphology. In the following, Chap. 1 provides a brief review
of coastal barrier definitions and types, and discusses the principle factors
controlling their evolution and formation. The second chapter presents a
broad-scale overview of the Brazilian coast, identifying the main factors
acting to differentiate various sectors along that coastline, and the factors
that control the large-scale development of these coastal depositional sys-
tems. The following nine chapters outline the types and evolution of bar-
riers of the southern, southeastern, northeastern, and northern coastal re-
gions of Brazil.
VI Preface
July, 2008
List of Contributors
Preface ....................................................................................................... V
Contents ................................................................................................... XI
7. Barrier and Beach Ridge Systems of the Rio de Janeiro Coast .... 225
7.1 Introduction ................................................................................. 225
7.2 Geologic Setting .......................................................................... 228
7.3 Relative Sea Level Change .......................................................... 230
7.4 Physical Forcing Functions ......................................................... 231
7.5 Beach ridge Plains ....................................................................... 232
7.6 Coastal Dunes .............................................................................. 235
7.7 Coastal Barriers ........................................................................... 235
7.7.1 Barrier Islands and Spits .................................................... 235
7.7.2 Single Transgressive Barriers ............................................ 240
7.7.3 Double Transgressive Barriers .......................................... 242
7.8 Evolution and Chronology of the Rio de Janeiro Barriers........... 244
7.9 Conclusions ................................................................................. 248
References .......................................................................................... 248
8.1 Introduction
8.2.1 Geology
Figure 8.1 presents a simplified geological map of the Bahia coastal zone.
The general framework of the coastal zone has a strong control of the geo-
logical heritage which goes back to the Early Proterozoic-Archean. The
oldest geological elements of the coastal zone are from south to north: the
Araçuaí Foldbelt (Late Proterozoic), and the São Francisco cráton (Early
Proterozoic-Archean). These two major provinces have exerted a funda-
mental control on the development of the coastal zone, during and after the
South American – Africa breakup. Cratonic areas as opposed to foldbelts
are characterized by a very thick and stable continental crust (Matos 1999,
254 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Alkmim 2004). Thus, during the continental break-up, the rifted areas are
much narrower than those developed in the foldbelt province. Thermal
subsidence after break-up is also very limited in the cratonic areas. As a
result, the continental shelf where the coastal zone intersects the foldbelt is
much wider than in the cratonic section. In fact the cratonic section is cha-
racterized by the narrowest continental shelf of the entire Brazilian conti-
nental margin. This “cratonic coast” is also one of the few stretches of the
Brazilian coast where Mesozoic rift basins outcrop, possibly reflecting li-
mited thermal subsidence since the break-up (Karner et al. 1992). These
are the Recôncavo, Camamu, and Almada basins. On the exhumed rem-
nants of these rifted basins, some of the largest bays of Brazil developed as
a result of the Postglacial Marine Transgression. These are the Todos of
Santos and the Camamu bays. A third bay, the Almada (Lagoa Encantada)
bay has been completely filled during the Holocene (Almeida 2006).
Starting in the Early Miocene and possibly extending up to the Pliocene,
an important depositional event took place along almost the entire coastal
zone of Brazil, which resulted in the deposition of the Barreiras Formation
The origin of the Barreiras Formation is still not completely understood.
Traditionally it has been interpreted as the result of deposition in alluvial
systems. More recently however, several papers have shown that in north-
ern-northeastern Brazil, deposition, at least in its lower portion, took place
in transitional coastal environments such as estuaries and tidal flats (Ros-
setti 2006 and D.F. Rossetti, personal communication). According to these
more recent interpretations most of the Barreiras Formation is the result of
a coastal onlap associated with Mid-Early Miocene high sea levels (Arai
2006).
The Barreiras Formation is present along the entire coast of Bahia, ex-
cept for that section where the Mesozoic rifts outcrop along the coast. This
might suggest that this section has possibly experienced uplift during the
Miocene or afterwards. Differential erosion between crystalline rocks of
the São Francisco craton and the sedimentary rocks of the Mesozoic rifts
produced the present day physiography of this section (Fig. 8.2), in which
the rift basins occupy low lying areas (40 m high) bordered abruptly by
Precambrian terrains (100–200 m high). These low lying areas were later
flooded during the Quaternary highstands originating the Todos os Santos,
Camamu and Almada bays.
During the Quaternary, strandplains of different dimensions and varying
evolutionary histories developed along this coastal zone, as a result of
complex interactions between sediment supply, sea-level history, coral reef
8 The Holocene Barrier Strandplains of the State of Bahia 255
The basic elements of the general atmospheric circulation along the coast
of Bahia include: (i) air masses originating in the South Atlantic high-
pressure cell and (ii) periodic advances of air masses of polar origin. Hur-
ricanes do not affect coastal processes in Bahia. The South Atlantic anti-
cyclone cell constitutes the main centre of circulation. This anticyclone
cell is located in a fairly fixed position in the South Atlantic ocean, and
undergoes only slight seasonal variations. This permanence is reflected in
the extreme constancy in speed and direction of the trade winds. During
the summer, northeasterly and easterly trade winds blow along the coast.
During the winter southeasterly winds dominate. Antarctic polar fronts in-
vade the South American continent in great anti-cyclones east of the Andes
Mountain range moving along the coast towards the equator and reaching
o
latitudes as far north as 10 S during the winter. Gale force winds have been
reported associated with these polar air masses (Bandeira et al. 1975).
A discussion of the wave generation mechanisms for the eastern coast of
Brazil in presented in Dominguez et al. (1992). Because of the extreme
constancy in the speed and direction of the trade winds, and the geographic
location of the study area, lying entirely within the trade wind belt, waves
generated by these winds strongly influence coastal processes in Bahia. N-
NE waves are somewhat present all year round. Beginning in April and ex-
tending through August, E-SE waves comprise a significant percentage on
the wave trains impinging the coast. Thus, during the fall (Apr.–May) and
the winter (Jun.–Aug.) east-southeastern waves with average heights of
1.5–2.0 m and average periods of 6 to 7 s are common. During the spring
(Sep.–Nov.) and the summer (Dec.–Feb.) north-northeastern waves with
average heights of 1.0 m and periods of 5 s or less dominate in the region.
As a result of this seasonal variation in wave regime, reversals in long-
shore sediment transport also occur seasonally, as has been shown by Fa-
rias et al. (1985) who examined seasonal beach rotation at Armação beach
in Salvador city.
Tidal range along the coast is slightly over 2 m (Lower Mesotidal) and
exhibits a small tendency to increase from south to north.
256 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Fig. 8.1 Simplified geology of the coastal zone of the State of Bahia, which ex-
tends from Mucuri (south) to Mangue Seco (north). The small rectangles indicate
the locations of studied areas
8 The Holocene Barrier Strandplains of the State of Bahia 257
Fig. 8.2 Digital elevation model (DEM) showing the differences in elevation
between the Mesozoic rifts and the Precambrian basement
258 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Bittencourt et al. (2000) using the average directions of main wave fronts,
their heights and periods, modeled the wave-refraction patterns along the
coast of Bahia, and from that deduced sandy sediment dispersion along the
coastline. They concluded that overall, the longshore transport from Mucu-
ri to Salvador is dominantly northwards, whereas from Salvador to Man-
gue Seco it is dominantly southwestwards. Integration of this regional ap-
proach with more detailed wave refraction models made available in
Dominguez (2003), Dominguez et al. (2006) and Dominguez and Corrêa-
Gomes (2006), has allowed the production of a more refined longshore se-
diment dispersal model which is shown in Fig. 8.1.
8.2.4 Climate
Climate along the coastal zone is humid. The largest annual rainfall
(>2,000 mm) is concentrated in a zone that extends from Ilhéus to Salva-
dor. North and south of that zone annual rainfall drops to a minimum of
1,400 mm.
The continental shelf from Belmonte to Mangue Seco is very narrow with
an average width of 20 km. In front of Salvador and Ilheus the shelf break
is located just 5–8 km from the shoreline. The shelf break along the entire
study area is just 60 m deep. South of Belmonte the shelf widens dramati-
cally forming the Royal Charlotte and the Abrolhos Bank as a result of
volcanic activity during the Paleocene-Eocene (Szatmari et al. 2000).
Sedimentation on the continental shelf is dominantly biogenic, particu-
larly in the middle and outer shelves. The major constituent of continental
shelf sediments is coralline algae. Siliciclastics are present only on the in-
ner shelf in close proximity with the present day shoreline. Recent studies
have shown that the middle and outer shelves are characterized by very
low rates of sedimentation, since inundation after the Last Glacial Maxi-
mum (Freire 2006). Only 3–4 m of biogenic sediments have accumulated
in these shelf areas (Freire 2006). The most important coral reefs buildups
are present in the southern and north-central coast of the State. These areas
are characterized by the existence of suitable hard substrates for reef
growth (abrasion terraces, basement and structural highs) and low sedi-
ment supply. Reef development has exerted a strong control on coastal se-
dimentation by inducing changes in coastal hydrodynamics, as discussed
below.
8 The Holocene Barrier Strandplains of the State of Bahia 259
At least two episodes of higher than present sea levels have been identified
for the last 123,000 yrs BP (Suguio et al. 1985, Dominguez et al. 1987,
Martin et al. 1987). The Penultimate Transgression (Bittencourt et al.
1979) reached a maximum around 123,000 yrs BP, when sea level was po-
sitioned around 5 to 8 ± 2 m above the present level (Martin et al. 1980;
Lambeck et al. 2002). The subsequent regressive trend culminated around
19,000 yrs BP, when sea level reached a minimum of 100–120 m below
the present level (Hanebuth et al. 2003). The most recent transgressive epi-
sode, which initiated around 19,000 yrs BP, is known as the Last Trans-
gression in Bahia (Bittencourt et al. 1979) and reached a maximum ap-
proximately 5,600 cal yrs BP when sea level stood 4–5 m above the
14
present level. This last event left several records that were dated by the C
method, allowing the construction of relative sea-level curves for the last
7,700 cal yrs BP (Suguio et al. 1985, 1988; Martin et al. 1987, 2003).
The relative sea-level curve constructed for the Salvador region is by far
the most detailed of the entire eastern-northeastern coast of Brazil. Martin
et al. (2003) have recently presented a new version of this curve incorpo-
rating corrections for the reservoir effect and calibrations for calendar ages
(Fig. 8.3).
Angulo and Lessa (1997) questioned the existence of the two high-
frequency sea-level oscillations of the Salvador curve. According to these
authors, most of the sea-level indicators used in the determination of the
two high-frequency oscillations come from mollusks and not vermetid in-
crustations, which they consider to be the best and more precise indicator.
Martin et al. (1998, 2003) however, pointed out that a sea-level curve
should not be constructed based on a single sea-level indicator but should
incorporate information from other biological, sedimentological, ar-
chaeological and morphological indicators.
Besides these two transgressive events a high sea level older than
123,000 yrs BP was recognized in the northern portion of the State of Ba-
hia by Martin et al. (1980, 1988), based on geomorphological evidence
(fossil sea cliffs). This highstand could possibly be correlated to the Bar-
rier II system of the Rio Grande do Sul coast (Villwock et al. 1986).
Integration of this sea-level history with mapping of coastal environ-
ments (Bittencourt et al. 1981; Dominguez et al. 1981, 1987; Suguio et al.
1981; Barbosa et al. 1986; Dominguez and Wanless 1991, Martin and
Dominguez 1994) has demonstrated that during rising sea level, barrier isl-
and-lagoonal-estuarine systems are the dominant mode of sedimentation.
Rivers do not reach the inner shelf but tend to construct bay head deltas in
protected environments such as estuaries. Beach or foredune ridge plains
260 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
are virtually absent. This was the dominant mode of sedimentation along
the coast of Brazil during the Last Transgression.
Fig. 8.3 Relative sea-level curve for the Salvador region (see Fig. 8.1 for location).
Modified from Martin et al. (2003)
Data obtained from a core taken in the Coroa Vermelha reef (Fig. 8.4) al-
lowed the calculation of coral reef growth rates. The island surface is about
1.5 m above mean sea level (Leão 1982). The Coroa Vermelha core
reached a total depth of 15.2 m. The top of the pre-Holocene sequence was
found at 11.2 m below present mean sea level. Coral samples collected in
different depths in relation to the present mean sea level provided ages of
7,371–7,096 cal yrs BP (–11 m), 5,728–5,485 cal yrs BP (–8.5 m) and
4,527–4,287 cal yrs BP (–2.4 m). A sample dated from the reef border
provided an age over 1,683–1,504 cal yrs BP (Leão and Kikuchi 1999).
Leão and Kikuchi (1999, 2001) and Leão et al. (2003) have recon-
structed the evolution of the Abrolhos inner reef tract in four major stages:
Stage A (initial reef establishment) – the oldest age from the Coroa
Vermelha core indicates that during the Holocene the corals started colo-
nizing the area around 7,200 cal yrs BP, after rates of sea-level rise have
significantly decreased (see Fig. 8.3). The reef growth rate in this stage
was small, around 1.5 mm/year.
262 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Stage B (rapid vertical accretion of the reefs) – this stage took place
around the maximum of the Last Transgression and it was characterized by
a rapid reef growth, with rates in the order of 5.5 mm/year. The corals
dated from the top of the Coroa Vermelha core (4,527–4,287 cal yrs BP)
indicate that by this time this reef reached the present mean sea level.
Stage C (lateral growth of the reefs) – the vertical accretion of the reefs
stopped when they reached sea level. Since that time, the reefs have had
their tops truncated and started growing sideways. The age of 1,683–1,504
cal yrs BP, obtained from the border of the reef, which is younger than the
one from the top, corroborates this statement.
Stage D (reef degradation) – this stage is marked by a decline of the reef
growth which persists to the present day, possibly resulting from the com-
bined effect of a drop in sea level and progradation that brought the shore-
line close to the reefs thus increasing turbidity.
Fig. 8.7 Caravelas strandplain. Evolutionary Stage III – Initial coastline prograda-
tion. See text for details. Modified from Andrade (2000) and Andrade et al. (2003)
By that time, two major capes, the paleo-Ponta da Baleia and the paleo-
Ponta do Catoeiro were present. This general shoreline orientation is in
conformity with present coastal processes.
Stage V: Erosional episodes (Fig. 8.10) – Beach-ridge orientations in the
northern sector of the strandplain indicate that during the Holocene, severe
episodes of shoreline erosion have occurred, generating truncations in
beach/foredune-ridge alignment.
268 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Fig. 8.9 Refraction diagrams (wave heights) for NE (A) and SE (B) waves show-
ing the blocking effects of the coral reefs. See text for details
270 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
and precipitation values in the drainage basin of that river. Major river
discharges occur during the southern hemisphere summer as a result of ad-
vection of cold fronts along the hinterland, and the southward migration of
the intertropical convergence zone (ITCZ). During the winter, the cold
fronts advance only along the coastal zone, and precipitation on the drai-
nage basin is very much reduced.
272 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Fig. 8.14 Beach-ridge sets mapped for the Jequitinhonha strandplain and former
positions of the Jequitinhonha river mouth. Modified from Dominguez (1983)
SSE waves have had their frequencies greatly reduced. Martin et al. (1984)
have called attention before, to the possible existence, during the Holo-
cene, of prolonged periods of “El Nino”-like conditions affecting the east-
ern coast of Brazil. During those periods, the northward advance of cold
fronts was blocked, resulting in a decrease in S-SE waves.
It is interesting to note that a similar increase in southerly sediment
transport has also been observed in the Caravelas plain, somewhat around
276 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
that time. However the few available radiocarbon dates preclude a better
correlation between these two events.
Fig. 8.15 Massive southward transport of sediments, beginning around 1,100 cal
yrs BP, forcing a southward migration of the Mogiguiçaba river for a distance of
approximately 10 km. This massive transport is possibly related to an increase in
the intensity of the NE-E waves. See text for details
278 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
Fig. 8.21 Aerial view of a sector of the northern littoral of the State of Bahia,
showing three sets of sandy terraces. See text for details
8.7 Discussion
Fig. 8.22 Present day coastline at the Itapicuru strandplain, showing a well-
developed dune-ridge and beach-rock (cemented upper shoreface sediments).
These features are indicative of long-term trends of shoreline retreat
did not play a major role in this infilling, contrarily to what has been em-
phasized in previous research (Martin et al. 1980, Dominguez et al. 1987,
1992). Despite these superficial similarities, in detail, the evolution of each
of the documented examples is very different and defies simplifications.
As pointed out by Phillips (2007) landscapes are circumstantial, contin-
gent results of deterministic laws operating in a specific environmental
context. The historical and place contingencies are very important to un-
derstand local evolution.
Although the presence of a major river is certainly an important factor to
induce large scale progradation of the shoreline as exemplified by the Je-
quitinhonha strandplain, it is not necessarily a limiting factor, as is the case
of the Caravelas and the Lagoa Encantada strandplains, where riverine se-
diments did not play a role at all in progradation of the shoreline. Even the
presence of a river is not a guarantee that beach/foredune ridge plains/ re-
gressive barriers will develop as exemplified by the Itapicuru strandplain
where a much larger river is present when compared to the Almada river.
Notwithstanding, the shoreline has experienced almost no progradation
during the Holocene.
Much more important than the association with a river is the local phy-
siography. In the Caravelas region, the change in orientation of the original
284 J.M.L. Dominguez et al.
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