The Weiler ladies tailor--dressmaker,

designer, cutter and fitter book. 1915

Weiler, Sigmond Georg, 1883-

Milwaukee, Wisconsin: S. G. Weiler, 1915

https://digital.library.wisc.edu/1711.dl/GA6RDA6HNUGZO8P

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domain.

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 Cay eZ
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[iwine Weiler Insetrru)e tor]
SEF GRATIS
SOE, RRM DEE | CPO Ea AER LL NE TRS OE NS

The Weiler Block

First
Prize Patents applied for in the United States, Canada and Europe. The
Awards. designing, cutting and fitting personally done by Mr. Weiler with
his own method, has unconditionally been awarded First Prize
Gold Medals, Diploma and Cup of Honor at the 1912-1913 Inter-
national Exhibitions in London, Paris, Rome, Brussels and Bar-
celona.
Safe, : :
Sure, The Weiler method will prove a great boon to Dressmakers, Ladies’
Easy. Tailors, Designers, Cutters and Fitters, regardless of practical ex-
perience or working knowledge, as it simplifies matters, making the
work safe, sure and easy.
Remark- canes
able Tailoring has been my sole occupation since a mere boy of twelve.
Results - For twelve consecutive years I have been actively associated with
Attained. leading ladies’ tailors, and, any of these concerns, as well as the
scores of satisfied clients 1 am serving in my own establishment,
will gladly testify to the remarkable results attained with ease and
accuracy by my simple method.
Weiler :
Has I am a tailor and cutter possessing a thorough knowledge of every
Unusual phase of the ladies’ tailoring profession. I have studied the most
A bility. advanced systems in tailors and’ cutters’ academies, and in my own
high class ladies’ tailoring establishment, where the lowest price is
sixty dollars and the average for suit or long top coat is seventy-five
dollars, J personally do all the designing, cutting and fitting—the
success of which is eloquently proved by hundreds of unsolicited
letters of sincere praise. Is not this evidence of unusual ability?
Tailor,
Cutter, My book and block from the standpoint of the dressmaker, the tail-
Designer, or, the cutter, the designer and fitter, must become invaluable be-
ss cause it establishes a complete understanding of each other, in a
Now Work sense, permitting All to work as One, expelling the customary
in Harmony : : ; : :
waste of time through misunderstanding, and assuring rapid, safe
and sane results.
Lightens :
the Task. Both the tailor and cutter readily assume a knowledge of design-
ing by my plain method, and, thus the world’s oldest vocation—
tailoring—is improved to a degree which positively eliminates er-
rors and lightens the task.
IN ee ee ga
[ione
LA a
Weiler Inestrruc tor|'|
j SO SER HAR EP SR ELON OPO NS

Mastered It matters not whether you are working for yourself, or employed
in a by others, or a cutter in need of designing—you may now be-
Very come accomplished in the same within a very short space of time.
pee The Cutting Block is completed with all large and small sizes and
ea you can operate it skillfully after a couple of hours’ practice.

Graduated Yo bother with system is unnecessary, because the block is gradu-

for Any ated to meet any size, however large or small, so that you need only
Size. locate the proper number for dress, coat, sleeves, waist or skirt. The
sleeves will fit into the armholes, the underskirt with the top-skirt
and shoulder with shoulder in a faultless manner.
INS en ROIs Og ad RO
[iwine Weiler Insetrru]a tor||
BEF PTLD
SEE RADE OS | I ER ENR TRE ERS

The Weiler Block

Designing | have also perfected a new designing plate in miniature size,

gs which insures a normal 36 measure. By laying this plate on a
ee sheet of paper and drawing a line around it, 72 a minute’s notice
you produce a form of Coat, Skirt or Dress, sketching for the cus-
tomer any front or back view she may desire to see. If you do not
do the sewing yourself, hand this little sketch to your tailor or
dressmaker, and he will see at a glance what is desired.

eee Everybody interested in Ladies’ Tailoring is now situated to

bo Bark quickly attain a working knowledge, and become competent to earn
Big big money. With the use of the plate, the customer’s wishes are al-
Money. most zzstantly made clear to you.

No More Regardless of whether you may have invested hundreds of dollars

Wasted to learn your present system, or how many months or years you have
Labor. studied, or the number of instruction books you have gathered to-
gether—the course you have finished or are about to finish is hard,
impractical and anything but a guarantee of exactness. If the aver-
age academic system is based on solid facts and not high sounding
theory, WHY does it require Three to Four Try-Ons? For the
very good reason that the garment does not fit, and, often, as you
may recall, cannot be made to fit after hours of wasted effort and
labor.

WhyCutters A large number of cutters today lack confidence in their cutting, as

Bo dence 5° Many garments are returned and refused, having been spoiled
through a defective system, with slim chances of being adjusted.

Turned In spite of my natural inclination, keen liking and lifelong expe-

eee rience in the ladies’ tailoring occupation, I have made numerous
ane. mistakes, due to faulty systems. However, Cutters, Tailors and
Dressmakers need no longer apply themselves to any Trouble. My
method has absolutely revolutionized the customary “slaving
against wrong principles,” to a pleasantry that warrants perfection.
INS aera pen RO eng | ean
[ire Weiler Instrracto Fal
SEF SEL LESS TER DN | Se oY

Adjusts Coats, Skirts, Sleeves, Dresses, Waists, Shirts, Aprons—for any-

Itself thing and everything pertaining to tailoring or dressmaking—a per-
oo fect pattern can be quickly and inexpensively taken from this block,
Style. in any present or future style the world over.
To purchase this book of “priceless” information is to save months
and years of nerve destroying, fruitless study. It will give you im-
mediate command of the only perfect dressmaking and ladies’ tail-
oring method in the universe. ‘The combined patterns are included
with the substantially bound book, which contains clear, logical
explanations. Every design in this volume was made from the Weil-
er Block. The entire system includes Coat, (back and front) ; Skirt,
(back and front) ; Dress and Tailored Sleeves, and the Special De-
signing Plates.

Many of the best years of the author’s life were devoted to perfect-
ing this method and the original cost of production amounted to
thousands of dollars.
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First Pri
Fust Prze
es Barcelona 1912 CupParisol 1913
Honor

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First Prize First Prize
Brussel 1912 Roma 1913

First prizes and cup of honor awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, in the In-
ternational European Exhibition, Paris, 1913; Rome, 1913; Brussels, 1912; Bar-
celona, 1912, for the designing, cutting and fitting of first class ladies’ garments.
[[IwrRe Weiler Instrxctor||
NS HINGE SP AERTS ETE OBS ASCE ON AEN SONSR NIP ERE RU Tate RR Bie TROT RNS GS BORG BURRS ME SASS, GRRE IAR, ye
B = z

7 REESE
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oe i es , AG ¢ aa oH 1 4
f (a as AGO RAL
: / Dy 3 i WS hi A E : i
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Gold Medals Gold Medals

Roma 1913 Pans 1913

q rs mA Z a? ie

Gold Medals : ee
Pans 1912 Games
London 1913

Gold Medals
Barcelona 1912

an

|
Gold Medals
Brussels 1912

Gold medals awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, 1912 and 1913 in the Inter-
national Exhibition, Paris, London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona for design-
ing, cutting and fitting of first class ladies’ garments.
 A Oe Re ET | TERE CAS UENO AE OT EE
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Diplomas awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer,

1912 and 1913 in the International Exhibition, Paris,
London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona, for designing,
cutting and fitting of first class ladies’ garments.
PN se SRI Te WG
[[ore Weiler Inwtrracea tor||
}A =e] ARICA RN MES OUR Rig ae pS ER Nr

KINGDOM OF SPAIN CITY OF BARCELONA.

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION.
Ayes e Ce : oo Hes 1,

OW \ES SAY GF big ES Fae f =

ete
any junior: be ) BS) /
eer aes
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AGP] de; esapia | BE’ Under the Patronage of the Official Corporation AUN NCU eT
on oe eee re ‘Union de Productores
de Espafia para el Fomentode
la Exportacion ot ‘pyahon Shecestitge iat

DECEMBER, 1912. —— MARCH. I9I3. oe

To be held at the UNIVERSITY OF INDUSTRY and GARDENS

Commissioner GENERAL

oe 24, HOLBORN. LONDON, E.C.

Tolerate Adres "Patnoven ees
8. G. Weiler Esq.,

248 West Water St

MILWAUKEE Wis,
U: S.-4.

Dear Sir,
I have much pleasure to inform you that I have

been told by the Juries of the INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS at

BRUSSELS and BARCELONA to express to you their congratulations

to your exceptional skill in designing, cutting and fitting

of the costumes which you sent to the Exhibitions.

It is a special pleasure for me, as I had similar

remarks made to me from the International Juries at former

Exhibitions, PARIS and LONDON, who also greatly admired your
Exhibits and remarked that your costumes are certainly the
very best at the Exhibition.

Trusting that you will be pleased to get to know

about this.
I remain,

Yours faithfully
; THE COMMISSIONER CENERAL.

Llacercici
———————
Letter from the director of the International Exhibition of London:
Cae eT en ee
pion e Wweiler INnsetrwctor)|
DRI IEC N
he REO ef ERA ARS EMBOLI Ss SEE | SET RTM ENE Ba REL SOE EOS BEE BS OR: ~

CONTENTS

How to Use the Weiler Block. Page

PrIGEKRO nes Klis ANGE) Tess 09 CCVESIe east uae states sl wey etc tcsen ek oo wl 24
Block of Coats or Waists, Tailored Sleeves and Designing Blocks...... 25
TEREST, A Eg eas ee pe aa a aa Are ae 27
Measurements for Tailors and Dress Makers ...................0... 28
How to use the same measurement on the Weiler Block .............. 29
Guthing system Ory Walste see See eco en ace i a eo SOO
The New Finished Block without Cutting System .................... 32-33
A complete Single Breasted Semi-fitted Tailored Coat ............... 34-35
Oy Tet R LCC UGS NeE Mitte ete cic ee es Dee cee deen. SOH3U,
The New Tailored Sleeve Block Without System .................... 38-39
@omplete mbun
eS leeve mi. en ishc
ee ele ee a di 2 OAL
Wiresseande Waist olecve System. .al.c. ceed ress Sols c ete. 42-43
The New Dress Sleeve Block without System ..............--.-2+.. 44-45
Vist TO re ress ESE CVEre ir Mra aces ae ieee eet ees eteen 4Ondy,
GS Ieimep SiS CCU eers es Vote ohn artete
rhe dle ccaisidimy secre s Woanine = MEO
‘(hedNew okittiblocks without System: ©. .-.6.. 50.2 os cesu +. s ec aes 50-51
Pishecd: Geir eteewey tise sae ee oe A ie ce ata 4 255

Cutting, Fitting and Tailoring Section.

Paice eco telvadcse @ArMentse teers ee A NY rela tle mtn ee ees acl DAR OD

SAMO IN ream a ete Le ie hci a waist Seu ees S7

Meirineeande demining. teen aisha oe nen Cc ites een ee 58
Dithenent Styles onGarments. ols. ci eae ot ae ele ee 59

How to Cut Different Styles of Waists, Tailored Coats, Sleeves, Skirt and Capes.

EUR INBRVV State eco re Mhy MY ade Orn Rel tare dina: Nowe ded ihn iy 0 cm wien evree 5 OWOL
Siirmeanice siinta Walston neo i sce ee eas Vas tact ween 02-05

eittedm Waist Eee eh Oe ee ete ewes t «50020

Waist with Seam from’ Shoulder to Bust Front’.....................2. 68-69
Waist Front Shoulder with Seam. Back without ................... 70-71
A Complete Tailored Coat. Hip measure 40 inches .................. 72-73
Waist rontiands Backwithwoeam era." cutee! wees yee seca or FASS
aneleront.andebanc! Back Lailored’ Coat.) sitio i.e. os tt LOTT
RI MOITE TELCO MU VENI Lseralys eet Gece v ie) ae tse sae Sawer OTL
Finished Coat, tight fitted back. Semi-fitted front .................. 80-81
Qu ee TA ETE BIT GS BESTE BRE, EEE. 2

[wre weiler Instrwctor)|

yy, PUR RES, RE
at REA Ea hs i Ie RE, BES OO ER RS BaP Ra ~

Riding: Habit:Coat. Eiip measure 40) inches’ .¢ a0 te ee ere

Raglan Style. Waist. o.:2o:s0:2 es pan ee eee ee ee OES
Raplan Style: Overcoat... hace ce a eee OOO
Instruction for Kimono Style Front and Back ..................... 88-89
Kimono Sleeve Coat, Dress or Waist, without shoulder seams.:....... 90-91
Extra: large size ‘Tailored: Coat... 3 sels
Diagram showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip, Finish Coat .................. 94-95

How to Cut Different Sleeves.

Plain. Tailored: Sleeves... 3. Sass a ee ee a

‘Tailored Sleévewith front Seam. tummed ins:c 22 ee ee Oe
Blaited Sleeves vig 8 ee ays 8 2s he Se ey ee ee ee
Raglan: Sleeve <i. sacs -se 54 webs shoe ben re we ees Sacre eat eee

How to Cut and Make Different Capes.

Cape without Shoulder seam... 0.05 2: 3. $e teers se ee

Cape with Shoulder seam... 02.4.5 12 ge acie pee ie eee
High Collar ‘Capes+ i002 icici i ee ea ee ee hg ern ee ee eat

How to Cut Different Skirts.

Skirt Back and Front... «2205 scsnbs as oh spite te me ans ee eee ee

Skirt without Side Seam. 2: 2..5..6..25 © 2dbe as ecieeye eeee e
Panel Front and Panel Back... 2... ..0020 so 2S bots eee ee
Seven piece Skirt: i coda dsevnes ones Mes te te eee et)
Plaited Skirt 5.809 s 6..Gies 5 stale 0 Slob ade Geis 2 eS Be Ree a ae ae
Riding Breeches”: 222,060. 2 fs ein as ee ee ale
Riding. Habit: Skirt: . 75 0. csa5 2s Sec ois a Se en

How to Design With the Weiler Block.

Designing Suitiand Lone Coat. 22 6.5 i. 124

Designing Dress. 20 ne i ee 125
Finished Designing: 4.0% 2 etc ee ee 126
Nn eee ae ec ea ea ee ee ie
eS e
[wre Weiter Insewetrrucct o r}'| x

ah RESERPINE EE | AEN IP ENN Ore ERR OE ERS ORE EPR A

Block of Skirt and Dress Sleeve

ea ‘3 Ye aan ls hh d i af oe vad EDA - 5 &

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The two top methods show the front and back of Le ES

skirt block which is made from 36 to 62 hip measure. ; c
Pick out the even numbers according to the hip meas- PY :
ure, connect together and make the skirt as long as de- i
sired. om:
The other method shows a dress or waist sleeve 2
block which is made from 32 to 52 inches bust measure. | ‘ B
Lay this block on any part of the paper and pick out the tt. ?
even numbers and connect together and the dress sleeve vets
is ready. Look at page 27. ‘

Page Twenty-four
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; iW | The top method shows the front and back of ceat or waist, 32 to
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Salt Wy ‘The block on the lower left side shows a perfect sleeve from 32 to
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eae Fate HA | The sleeves fit into the armholes perfectly.
ba 4: He The right side is a tailored suit that is a designing model and from
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CS The center cut shows a dress model. To be used same way as the
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nae 1 Look. page 27.
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Instructions

The Weiler Block is arranged witha size scale of 32 to 52 bust.

The Sleeves are the same.

Skirts range from 36 to 62 hip measure.

For the Coat, the center back to center front should be on an even
line with the dip of the armhole. :
Draw a straight line across your cutting paper and lay the block
thereon, so that the two straight lines under the armholes are directly
opposite each other.
Now locate the number for your width of bust and mark through
the dotted holes with your pencil point, being careful not to mark the
wrong numbers. Remove the block when you have placed all the
proper dots, and connect same.
Thus you will have finished the arrangement without that unpleas-
ant strain caused by systems, as they are complicated and uncertain.

My block enables you, with utmost ease and safety, to quickly draft
loose or tight fitted garments, Long Coats, Raglans, Dresses, Kimo-
nos, Skirts, Sleeves, Aprons or any type of Sporting Garments.
By merely devoting slight attention to my simple instructions, you
will become agreeably surprised at the remarkable results.
Should you have any style or figure which is not normal, take the
correct measurements and use as shown in instruction book on next
page,

Page Twenty-seven
Oe aT TENT OT nT ee pS
2
[iwnre .
Weiler Inwtrracto x] x|
IEC
te PER OER EEN DIS NRE IONS EER | SRO PANT BAR EE ORO SE EEN

Measurements for Tailors

It is absolutely necessary to take correct measurements. The next diagram
shows how to use the same on the block for a figure that is not normal.
COAT. 10. Around the bust.
1. Half the width across the back. 11. Around the waist.
2. From center neck to waist line, and on to entire 12. Around the hip, which is about 8 inches below the
length of coat. waist line.
3. From shoulder high to center back waist point. 13. From snug up under armhole to the waist line.
4. From center neck to the side. 14. Length of sleeve front from under armhole to end
5. From center neck over shoulder to highest bust of sleeve.
point. a
6. From the same center neck continue to length of SKIRT MEASURE.
front waist line. 1. Around the waist.
7. From same center neck to the side front. 2. Around the hip, about 8 inches below the waist.
8. From the front waist length to the highest front 3. Front length.
shoulder. ‘ 4. Back length.
9. Chest. 5. Length of right side.
\3

For Dress Maker’s \

measurement 1-2- \
5-6-9-10-11 -12- if 5 nN
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Page Twenty-eight B A Cc K FRONT

NS Fare TO Tey TERR ESD ORES SE BONERS oS A, ye
NES TRS
2 s zt
pioine Weiler Inwewtrru)ea tor||
7 SELEY as ARAN DPIC SRE NB SEE Be | ARI REN RL MR EY SEC ON ee SEPT
RR AY

This shows how to use the measurements on the block.

Follow diagrams closely.
See the fitting section.

3
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Page Twenty-nine
RC ee T TAR AER RNAI SERGE ENE MEA, GER we
Pt . ae
pion e Weiler Inswtrructo Fal
a BOS EE ES CO NS EE | LORI TNE BEL EME Oe HEP DN ‘a

Cutting System for Waists

Mr. Weiler here shows his first diagram for normal waist
from which he made larger and smaller sizes.
Draw a horizontal line across the top, and from this draw a
parallel line down the back.
From the back go forward !4 the bust measure.
On this draw a parallel line down the front.
On back line go down %, 1%, 414, 734, 15%.
The 15% is waist length.
Go in at top on back 2 inches. From this go up 34 inch.
On line 1% go in 734 inches.
On line 4% go in 634 inches.
On line 734 go in 9 inches.
From top end of front go in 3 inches, and down 3 inches,
for neck.
On front line 114 go in 2% inches.
The front length is 19 inches.
On length of waist, 1514, go in 1 inch and divide same in
half. Use proper line in accordance with the way back of coat is
to be fitted.
On front line 4% go in 8 inches.
Draw a line from 634 down to armhole depth line.
Do likewise from 8.
Now connect with the two dotted lines which cross each
other as shown on diagram.
Go up 34 inch at each end to locate the under armhole.
From waist line 1514, go in 7% inches.
From 7% go forward 1% inches.
Now go up 34 inch from each side of bottom waist line, and
connect as shown on diagram.
Look at pages 32 and 33 and see the difference between this
system cutting and the block cutting.

Page Thirty ‘
Nien ea gaa OGY Ge co ea a ee ye
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[: One Weiler Inwsetrractor|

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Page Thirty-one
QR | Highs age RO
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[piwre Weiler Inwtrracto x] et|
y BE ep OSE NES eC REN OEEER | APR AAT
BARRED OE ERD RCE BEE ‘a

cone i 5 i
The New Finished Block without Cuttting System

This diagram shows how the Weiler Block may be adjusted

for jarge or small sizes, from 32 to 52 bust measure.
To complete size of any kind of coat or waist, mark through
all the numbers which correspond with your bust measure, and
join together.

All sizes are obtained in the same way.

The instruction book tells how to make any style of coat or

waist.

Page Thirty-two
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Page Thirty-three
Re OT a t PRA REGIS EE ESE II BENG BIR ESE EH NSE gE TEE.JA

[plone Wweiler Inswtrrucea tor]

ee oe id

2 EER EE ARAN RES OCA IRIN EEE | SL NE BER RES OE CE ERE TEES ~

A Complete Single Breasted Semi Fitted Tailored Coat

This diagram shows that any style of tailored coat can easily
be made with the Weiler Block.

See pages 74, 75, 76, 77 of instruction book. Allow two

inches on front for buttons and button holes.

For double breasted coat two inches extra.

Look how the collar is designed on the neck.

Page Thirty-four
eT ON EEN
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Page Thirty-five
RO waa t TEAR EERE RIS IE RE INIT SING BTR EIE CO RAEI PEAS, -

[iwre Weiler Inswtrracto x] |

yy, PRS LER ARAN RS SECA
NRE OEE | ERT EMER ARR CON EPR eo ~

4 2
System for Sleeve.

With this Mr. Weiler made his block, from 36 down to 32,
and up to 52. It produces a perfect fitting armhole, when size
of same corresponds with bust size.

Draw a horizontal line across the top. From beginning of

this, draw a parallel line down the side.

On top line go in 9% inches, which is 14 of bust measure

plus % inch.

Divide top line in half.

Go down on same 2% inches, 314, 51% and 13%, which is

the location of elbow, now go down to 23, or any length desired
for sleeve.

Draw a straight line out from each of the above numbers, as

shown on diagram.

; Connect the % on top with line 5% on front.

On this little pointed line go up 114 inches, to about 14

inch above the 2% line.

On line 2% come back | inch from front.

On line 3% come back 34 inch and 434 inches.

This is the end of under sleeve which comes together with

end of top sleeve line 2%.

On line 1314, come backward from front 214 and 7 inches.

On bottom in front, go backward 234 inches, and on this go

up % inch.

From 234 go backward 4 inches and 5% inches.

Connect all the parts as shown on diagram.

Page Thirty-six
 OEE ARE PS SRR OE ESE ELM Rai i OES Mie RRR TG aR DENN MEL OAR GORE. ip
w Fa EIRENE

[ire weiler Inwswtrructo ||

BEF GLE E ER DD
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Page Thirty-seven
Ngee ona OG Gc ne en ee ee he ee ip
@ : at
piwire Weiler Inwswtrructo rai
ms ERS ERAN AR INS EE | REN Ie NENT PRE OE EGON IRE PEE \~

The New Tailored Sleeve Block without Cutting System.

As for the coat front and back, mark through the numbers
which correspond with the bust size. Connect all the pencil dots,
and the sleeve is ready.

Follow instructions in the book, and all kinds of sleeves may

be made to properly fit into the armhole.

Page Thirty-eight
NS FA SP EERE RE SAR CE SRS NE ISS st [PERE ERE IS RAITT LEONE OEE, GSE. we
2 - af
[wire Weiler Inwtrruct o x}
Se LEE TLE ERE SOT ADD II ILO AAR OE ER OS

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Page Thirty-nine
 a ap FE OO ee DN Pati wecPETT
e xt
pion e Weiler Inwewtrracto rai
mh ROR REN RS NOCA NBEIN GS EE | ALERT eR ENE ARR SO RE NPE T e a

Complete Finished Sleeve

‘The pointed lines show how the sleeve looks when it is ready.

Page Forty j
 <
Nee ea ss Re T TEA ay ALTER ice I PRT GE BI PERE OEY RMNSee
oR %iB
[wire Weiler Inwswtrrirccto x) |
a EGER aH REPRE RIES ASE S Ne Sic: SPEER | Sa Se a ee SY

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. Page Forty-one
IN oan eee ee D ee eon a REE ee iB

[iwine Weiler Inwswtrrcao tor||

a ERT apREA
SES SOCAN SRN SEE h LORE IP NRE EE RR ONE GRE DERE HP SP a

: #4 Re
Dress and Waist-Sleeve System.

Draw a horizontal line across the top. From this draw a

parallel line down the side.

On top line go forward 714 inches. On side line go down 5

inches.

The length is 19 inches.

Connect 71% with 5.

On this line go down from 7%, 4 inches. Go in bottom
2 inches on front.

Connect as shown on diagram.

Page Forty-two
Ns ae OT OR RR DEI Gy TR AR TTC EOE EO
2 = Fs
[: One Weiler Inwtrruactor|
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Page Forty-three
By =
pine Weiler Inwtrraa tor|| x
Y RS HUERTA
NREL Es | LIP ERE BERR ESOC EOS aT ty UR: ‘a

The New Dress Sleeve Block without

©
System.
a

On the side parallel line, the cloth including the top of

sleeve, always lays folded double, but the bottom can be made as
long or wide as the style demands.

For fancy dress or waist, always change the length and

width on sleeve bottom.

Page Forty-four ;
Rs RES EIB IE OEE IS ARE CHS ONSEN EES CES ELV A iat, ate Bie RN RO ah Sa RON ENE ALN GORE. -
[{iwine Weiler
2 =
Insewtrrue)e tor|| e

SE CARPETS RS TE RR AN CAR SE AR OTTO RNS

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Page Forty-five
Wa ee, Tag RA IAI GME NE EE ae
Pa 2
[iwre Weiler Inwswtrructo x]
NES SNe
a EEE ap UE REARS SEE | ALES TP NNT BR SOOO NE HAPS OR ‘e

Waist or Dress Sleeve

= EN

This sleeve is usually made in half or three-quarter length.

The style of this sleeve being shorter than ordinary, may be
made 1% or 2 inches larger on bottom than the block allows.
The top is stationary.
This sleeve is always cut in one piece.

In placing sleeve in armhole, the sleeve seam must go for-

ward | inch from the under armhole coat seam.

Page Forty-six ;
Qe a Taney eR ee I
2B : it
piwire Weiler Inwswtrructo rai
A, Ee ee | EIA,
BARE EVES SEO ELEN REIN NS

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Page Forty-seven
QR See Eno TERR EE RR SERPS BONES ME RASS GEE ip
Pa . a
[iwre Weiler Inwtrruct or] |
ws NS RIA eS
PEPIO aHMETRER are a ER | ERR TENT Aa REL ORR BR EO ~

Skirt System.

With this diagram, Mr. Weiler made his block in 36 to 62

hip measure.

Draw a horizontal line across the top. From this draw a

parallel line down the side.

Go down on side, 234, 3%, 7%, 11% inches, and continue to

the length of skirt.

On top go in one-half your hip measure, and from here

come backward 434 inches and connect with 3% inches.

Divide in half, and go down ¥% inch to get your regular

top line.

From 3% go in one-half your waist measure, plus 1% inch,

which equals 61% inches.

From 434 come forward one-half your waist measure, less

¥ inch, which equals 5% inches.

On line 11'4 go in one-half hip measure, plus 14 inch.

Come forward on same line from back, one-half hip meas-

ure, less 1% inch. Join both of these together.

On line 7% go forward &% inch.

Line 1114, on side seams go backward ¥% inch.

Cut out 1% inch from between the two side seam lines, but
only if skirt is made with side seam.

Connect 434 with line 11% on back.

Draw a parallel line to the desired length of skirt.

Connect all the parts as shown on diagram.

Page Forty-eight
RN era ET st FAD NOITU LO Ey
Pd e RE
pion e Wweiler Insewtrruaa tor]
Y BRE AEE AS SORES BNE OT SEB I IP ET BARREL Pe OS ON ‘a

| Hip ne 4%oe WE eS _? |
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Page Forty-nine
w Goan a a GD ee eI ie
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Inwswtrructo x]
Pe
[wre Weiler
7 BLES MERE AEANS SORES ECB NBR a SER | ARC NNT AR ORR OST IRE SONS A

ae é
The New Skirt Blocks without System

; a 3} g
z

This shows the front part of skirt in 36 to 62 hip measure.

Merely mark through the numbers which correspond with
the hip measure and join the dots together.
Make the skirt to length desired.

Page Fifty
Se Tina on eae Ta GE TTI RT
B .
[iwine Weiler Inwewtrract or}'|if
ws ESR aH ANS RS SEAN NEN OER | ALOR TP RRL BARE ON EG EOE BITES m~

The New Skirt Blocks without System

ee :

‘ 2 AN NX RN :

es AAMAS :
Va
\ \\ AIAN . :
\\ \\\ :
x :
\ i

= e ee \

ne ener er

This shows the back part of skirt, which is made in the same
way as front. Join front and back together to make any kind of
skirt with or without side seam.

Page Fifty-one
Qe ee OEE ! PAP TREE I EB ROTTS BEER ENE NE RE GO A. e

Inwewtrructor |
Re
weiler
oe
[iwre
a

yy, ELLE ep LE AEA NS PORES TN ER | LOSI THE BRE SOE CEO BAPE
BS RR AN

e metile
Finished Skirt

This shows you a complete skirt panel back, and panel

front, with or without side seam.

Four additional inches are required for any kind of seam

or plait on the back.

Page Fifty-two
nN EGE Sp ERB EVIE OEE BS ERIE SS SUES OEY ESTES 7 PEAR LR Pie TBD
GS BIBI RIE OO REARS J
Pa e xt
[wine Weiler Inwewtrruct or}'|
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Page Fifty-three
NEE) AEE
[ire Weiler Inswtrrct or|'|
BEF LER RR TR RA EN TIT HARRI AER OE TR ENS

Fitting of Ladies’,Garments.
If you do the fitting, and have the sewing done by others, when an altera-
tion is required, call the tailor into the fitting room and show him what changes
are needed. This will enable him to easily understand how to make the altera-
tions.
There is no fitter or system in the world, however expensive, that can always
guarantee perfection of fit, without a try-on. :
If a lady’s figure is not normal, it is impossible to fit her properly without
atry-on. ‘The teacher or salesman of any system, who claims it can be done,
misrepresents. : :
All of the so-called systems invariably require one or more fittings—for
a normal figure, and by taking into consideration the large number of misfits,
you can judge for yourself that the systems are not safe.
Make all the garments you can, because practice and experience will make
you a perfect fitter of any type of figure.
Most mistakes can easily be corrected if the garment is placed on the per-
son so that it hangs evenly at both sides. In this way, should the figure not be
regular, you can see which side to take in and which to let out, wherever neces-
sary.
Also follow the same plan on the shoulders, in order to see which is the cor-
rect line for any figure. Bae:
Fitting Knowledge of System. You know fitting is the principle feature
in the making of a garment. Do you not recall that often times when you have
made two suits for the same person, one would fit perfectly, while the other
proved to be a complete misfit. This has been the experience of most cutters
—and is proof positive that systems cannot be relied upon.
My Block does away with all uncertainty. It has a size scale of 32 to 52
bust, with corresponding sleeve sizes. The size scale of Skirt Block is 36 to 62
hip measure. If you wish to use the odd numbers, which are not shown on the
Block, take those numbers nearest to your bust measure, and cut your pattern
larger or smaller accordingly. Place the odd numbers between the numbers
on the block.
My Block guarantees the perfect lines. Any size and style can be made
from the same. ‘
As each person has a different figure, be sure to take the measure care-
fully, and use same as directed on pages 28 and 29 of instruction book. This
will show you how to obtain the correct size and position.
If the front is high, the measure will be more. Should the person be larg-
er or smaller than normal, this book will show you everything according to cor-
rect measures on pages 28 and 29.
Prominent, high bust, makes large front, and smaller across the back. Hol-
low front makes large back. When back is round, the front shoulder part is
shorter, the back shoulder part longer, and it is always hollow across the chest
between the two shoulder fronts.
With the correct length, width and measures, and proper attention to the
fitting, everything can be made perfectly.
Page Fifty-four
piwrne Weiler Insestrruct o r}'|
Be oe 3

ne ERENT IRA REO OEE RT ESO ERE OATES

TN ENS

Fitting of Ladies’ Garments.

If the garment has no seam on-the center back, for a person with round
back, shape it in the tailoring. Press the center back round and shrink the
same on both sides.
Hold in the back shoulder slightly more than for a normal coat.
Always baste the sleeves in for fitting, so you can see the proper elbow
and full length.
Mark the sleeve on the right place, because if it is set too far backward,
when the wearer moves her arms forward the sleeves will bind and the arm-
hole will cut, while the back will wrinkle and appear too small.
‘ If the sleeve is set in too far forward, the same trouble will occur with the
ront.
Always place the sleeve in the armhole, according to the person’s build.
Do not finish the collar for fitting, because if the shoulder needs chang-
ing there will thus be needless extra work.
Merely pin a canvas collar on the coat for fitting and shape it to the neck.
Finish your collar after the fitted canvas, and place on the neck as specified
by the marks.
Wide sailor or fancy collars are made the same way, but larger or smaller,
as the styles demand.
If the waist line is too long, you can easily alter it by raising up the back
of the shoulder. If the waist line is short, just reverse this rule.
If the coat falls away at the bottom in front, you can fix it by raising up the
front shoulder, but make the armhole deeper in same proportion, so it will not
be too high.
If armhole is too deep, it seriously affects the fit of coat, as it doesn’t permit
the person to raise her arm high enough. This alteration can be made by rais-
ing the shoulder to the necessary degree. When coat is raised at top, let down
a like amount at bottom, and bust point.
If the lapels stand out too much, do not attempt to work them in, as certain
kinds of material will not stand it.
Lapels can be made any length desired, if you have the collar in the right
location, because the set of the collar affects the length and shape of the lapel.
If the top lapel is too high, from raising too much on shoulder, cut down
the top lapel on neck portion, and put the collar on accordingly.

Skirt Fitting.
It is very important to place the skirt on the person so it hangs evenly on
both sides. This permits you to see where the figure is not normal, and take
in or let out wherever necessary on the seam. However, be careful not to al-
low the skirt to lose its lines.
Always cut the skirt length to the floor, then mark evenly all around the
bottom, at the proper distance from floor to obtain the length of skirt which
customer desires.
Waist line can be made in any height to suit you. If high waist line is
preferred, put the belt around the person’s waist, and finish the skirt onto the
same.
Page Fifty-five
DNS eae IE ESR ong Pg Fea ROO 2B
2 -
[iwnre Weiler Inwswtrru]a tor|| i
BAS GERTLER
REO j CPO A NA EER NE TR EON

Cutting
‘ 3 =

Before cutting broadcloth, velvet, plush and all fabrics that have
a nap, see that the nap is smoothed down. Velveteen should be cut
with the nap up. Material having no nap can be cut either way.

However, for striped material, place your pattern so that stripes

match perfectly on back, front, sleeve, top collar and facing. When
using silk, if you do not cut each part of coat and skirt the same way,
the finished garments will vary in shade.
To avoid trouble when working on the garments, be sure to sponge
woolen and cotton cloths thoroughly before cutting.
Also sponge thoroughly the canvas, interlining and tape.
Allow desired width for seams on shoulder, side seam, neck and
bottom.

Page Fifty-six f
Ne a Tal TES NOR DE OO EE,
[: One Weiler Inwswtrructor |
i, BEF SARL
IRE BOTS RS | CIR ARR) EN RIE ERE OER NS
‘Tailoring
Shape the coat collar straight or round, according to the ladies’
figure.

Shape the collar round for a stout figure, so that when the lady
stands erect, the coat will not wrinkle across the back. For slender
figure and long neck, make the collar perfectly straight.
For a regular tailored coat, the center back on the waist line must
be well shaped with the press iron.
All the inside seams should be stretched rather than clipped, so the
garment can easily be enlarged if necessary. For high bust figure, the
edge of waist line should be well stretched.

If the cloth will not give enough, cut the canvas on the front waist
line about 6 inches deep, and spread it about I inch, to make room for
an extra piece of canvas, which should be placed in such a way as to
cause the waist to shape in properly under the bust line.

Always set the sleeve in the back part of armhole a little short.
Hold the front sleeve on the shoulder part so it will be a little full.

Sew the canvas together exactly the same way as the cloth. Canvas
seams on front must match perfectly with top cloth seams.
Always sew the under collar by hand, because if the canvas is
stitched to the cloth by machine, the sewing thread will break while
being stretched.
Silk lining cannot be pressed while damp.
Never put the jacket lining in too snug, because the outside of coat
will show it.
Join the different parts of the coat together evenly at the waist line,
in order to effect the true balance.
The collar on the shoulder seam part should always be set in
slightly fuller than on other parts of neck.
Always set in a little full the second front at bust point, and stretch
to a like degree, the same portion on waist line.
Join the skirt seams together evenly, otherwise the skirt will
wrinkle.
If the skirt has plaits, tape them on the inside, to prevent the skirt
from flaring out.
Page Fifty-seven
Nise ea a ene OAD ENO LE EE
2B e 2
[iwre Weiler Inswtrracto x] |
SRF RATTLES TRE OTE AI OO RIN HERG LPO TON

Lining and Trimming.

To cut plain lining, lay the pattern any way excepting on the bias.

When using striped lining, see that it matches perfectly at center

back, front and sleeves.

Place plait on center back lining.

Allow plenty of lining so that if coat should be too small, the
seams, and bottom, may be let out. Use rather a little extra lining than
not enough.
Cut front canvas straight. Cut second front and bust point can-
vas on the bias. Bottom of sleeve likewise.

For under collar, cut the canvas as much bias as possible, so the
collar can be stretched round as wanted.
The under lining for coat and sleeve must be cut the way the cloth
runs.

For Skirt.

Cut the skirt placket straight, and sponge all the braid before sewing
on to the skirt.

Page Fifty-eight
AN aia Eg gO
porn e Weiler Inwewtrruacto xr] |
Be e Pd

BEF GRAPES
TOS ROA RETR | COT ESO RRR ARTES TEN ENS

Different Styles of Garments.

Dress.

Use the Weiler Block in the same way for waist and skirt, as for
any kind of dress, because it is only necessary to connect the waist and
skirt on the waist line, to make a dress.

For a one-piece Princess Dress, use the waist block, and make
the same way as any other fitted garment, in any length of dress desired.
See directions for fitted garments in the instruction book.

For a long coat, use the numbers on block which correspond with
the measurement. Make the coat from waist line down evenly all
around the bottom, and in any length desired.

Fancy Garments.
Any present or future style can be made from the Weiler Block.
If the styles change, merely follow the new style proportions, and cut
your seams and place plait or gathering accordingly.

For Kimono and Raglan instructions see pages 88, 89, 90 and 91.

Norfolk Suits.
If wanted with yoke, make as style shown. Cut the paper where
the yoke on the coat or skirt is to be, allow a seam on both ends of cloth
and sew together at the portion where the yoke comes. If strips and
belts are needed, make same two inches wide and place them where the
style indicates.
Patch pockets should be placed 10, 11 or 12 inches below the arm-
hole.

Page Fifty-nine
Se aT Een Sg fon RTS
x]
Re e Pid
[iwre Weiler Inwtrructo
7 ESS eR ETN | ALES
FP NRE A RRO CORES HEPES mien a

Plain Waist.

Every size of waist or coat made the same way, take meas-
urement from center back of neck, over the shoulder, the highest
part of bust, where you see the heavy line, and A.

We will now draw a line 2% inches in to meet letter A. :

Repeat this from B to C on waist line.

Front length B is always the same as the measurement.

The sleeve front seam for all sizes should be 2 inches for-
ward, from the under armhole seam.

From B to C is 2%4 inches.

Place an under armhole side seam on waist line 2% inches

forward, and continue the same to D % of waist measure and
plus 2 inches. f

Page Sialy
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Page Sixty-one
Nin eee Yh TEAR AEGIS ASSIS BONG BIRR NE ET NSE oR HAE /

[ine Weiler Inswtrruea tor||

@ e Be

ch PERS MEERA
ST RES AIRE SEER | LEE AN BNE FERRE SOE EOE IPE tS IR: a

Shirt and Shirt Waist.

To cut a shirt or shirtwaist, we locate on the block the size

of bust measurement, and draw a line around exactly the same as
for a coat.

At back of neck on the dot, and front of neck on the dot,

and all around the armhole, go in 2 inches, as shown on the dia-
gram.

From the waist line on the center of back, go out 2 inches

and run the line down to the desired length of garment.

For an extra large shirt, locate the dot at bottom of waist

line, then go 1% inches back from the same, and connect the un-
der armhole point with the enlarged portion, which will get the
shirt 6 inches larger.

The shirt can be buttoned on the shoulder or in the front.

Front, back and sides should all be the same length from the
waist line to the bottom.

Page Siaty-two : i
QU one a ee | I Pad ian EAD AGRE it
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LADIES SHIRT

Page Sixty-three
 TT oan
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Inwswtrructor |
am BRS EE A | ARON ENTIAL
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Apron.

For the apron, we proceed the same as for shirt. If the :

apron is to fit snugly, the waist line remains natural.

If wanted one-half form fitted, trace 1 inch in, all around

the neck and % on armhole. If wanted loose, 2 inches around
the neck and an inch on armhole.

Make the apron any length, but the top should always re-
main the same. For loose apron make larger also on back waist
line and under armhole, side seam.

Button in front or on shoulder.

To include pockets, always go down 12 inches from under

armhole and 5 inches forward from the side seams.

Page Sixty-four
RC a SOz EOE a ee I

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Page Sixty-five
Nien ona ea EEA ERE RR RNIN ITE BP DURE IE NET NA oR REA iE

[iwire Weiler Inswtrru]d tor}'|

ms REE ERRAND
ES NOC A BENG ELE | oP RN ae SERRE OE CE ERR ES OS ~

Fitted Waist.

Any kind of fitted coat or waist can be made from this

chart. When the patterns are laid out, and the lines made,
measure the bust height from center back of neck over the
shoulder to the front. Draw in a straight line from the bust
height point, then go in on this line 24 inches, now continue
on same line to the 234 inches, from which point go %4 inch
higher up.

From bottom of waist length in front, go in same distance

2% inches—as at the bust height line. Also come forward from
under armhole waist line 24 inches, and now you have 5 inches.
Take in one-half the space that remains between the first and the
last 2% inch spaces, and on the same go backward and forward
Y% inch, joining together with the top line of bust height—if the
width of waist is 24 inches, half on front as before figured, 5
inches, and 1 inch between the two notches, which together
makes 6 inches or one-half of the half waist measure.

If the width of the waist is more or less than 24 inches,

figure accordingly from the 2% inches. However, the space in
front is permanently 2'% inches, the space between always re-
mains | inch. On the back go in 3 inches from the center back
waist line, then lay up the same to under armhole side seam
line and go out until you secure the other 6, or the other one,
half of half waist measurement, between the 3 inch spaces and
the waist measure, cut out as high as you want and the waist
measure is completed.

Page Siaty-six
AN pai EY FE EDS TR OT EE
2 - Fe
[: OnKe Weiler Inwtrructor|:
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REINA EA TESTES TRS

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Page Siaty-seven
IN epFE ORGAO
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B eo
[pion] Weiler Inswtrructor|
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ws. REFRE* ePERR TREN S DORIS SECA NEI SEE | ROR ENE ARRAS EE GO SRE BT ~

Waist With Seam From Shoulder To The Bust: Point.

_ : 4 ~ .

Whenever a semi-fitted or loose coat or vest is required for

a lady having a prominent bust, same can be made without any
difficulty. Measure the bust at its highest point and go in 2%
inches. Divide the shoulder in half and join together with bust
point. Now go | inch out at either side from the middle shoul-
der line, and join the two lines together with the bust point as
shown on diagram.

In sewing these seams together see that bust portion is not

pointed, as it is preferable to have it slightly round.

From this point down to waist line the front can be made
fitted or loose.

Below bust line lay the cloth on dotted seams, or cut it out
exactly in accordance with the style.

You can place this seam to any place desired, from the neck
to bust point, or from the front under armhole line to the bust
point. Be careful, however, to replace at both sides the amount
you cut out from between the shoulders to the bust point.

Page Sixty-eight ;
QC EA aR SS Sea er Tava an RE AT ET
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[wine Weiler Inwswtrructo xr) |a
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Page Sixty-nine
 Ra ET
[lone Weiler
Pr

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Instrructor||
SEER h LORIE SAIN HRS BE RE SO EONS BAPE BS ER
zt

Waist Front Shoulder With Seam. Back Without.

: As shown in diagram on page 69, divide the shoulder in

half, and at both sides take out | inch and join together with
bust point. Replace the same at both sides as shown on dia-
gram. Go in on waist line from center front, 214 inches, the
same amount as at bust point, now go in 2!4 inches farther.
Join together with the bust in such a manner that bust will not
be pointed.

At the back go down 3 inches from shoulder point.

Divide the back on under armhole line in half. :

Go in 3 inches on the waist line. Put the 3 inches on the

under armhole waist line, then come back 14 of waist measure-
ment, and | inch. Now joint together as shown in diagram.

Page Seventy
 at
Weiler Inwswtrructo rai
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[one
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Ms LR Ca EERE AACN OER SNE Nis EEE | AEE TP TN RAL SAREE ORE GAPS PRR AY

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Page Seventy-one
 my an aT Ee OE egy ta A TT
Inwswtrracto x] |
3 = ra
[ire Weiler
&s PER RIERA
NS IERES SROC ANN NRE SEER | RT ARR OE RRS EEE ES OER a

A Complete Tailored Coat. Hip Measure 40.

I have shown on former diagram instructions for this style

of waist, and now my purpose is to give you necessary details to
‘ complete the coat.

First draw a parallel line the full length of back and the
full length of front.

From the waist line on back go down 8 inches, on the front

7 inches, and this gives you the depth of hip.

To get the center back, go out % inch from the parallel

line to 8, from the same in 3% inches to A, because the back
should be % inch larger on hip line than on waist line.

At 7 go in 2% inches, same as at top.

From A to B, 1% inches.

From B go forward 7 inches, from C also 7 inches, now

add together the 2'4 inch front, the 314 inch back and the two
sevens, making in all 20 inches, which is one-half the hip
measure.

In order to get a larger or smaller hip measure, leave the

back and front stationary. Back 3% inches. Front 2% inches.

If hip measure is to be larger or smaller than 40 inches, the

dotted lines from B to end of 7, and from C to end of 7, which
points give you the side seams, should be made wider or nar-
rower, in accordance with the hip measure. From waist line
to length of coat every seam should be made evenly long.

For collar, button and button holes, look at pages 34-35.

Page Seventy-two
PSS PRE
[wine Weiler Inwtrru)d tor] |
ah BELLS Ca ANS ORES SEEN SNe EEE | LOSER
TP REN BREE
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Page Seventy-three
 Re SE SE EO ER, Lae " PAP RSG Be RESID GSP IR EA ME ESE GETS. ye
Ped s xt
piwre Weiler Inwswtrru\]a tor] |
ws ESOS ERE
SS EU Be | STP AN BE ERR OHO EON he BAPE DS RR a

A
Waist Front and Back With Seam.
Always use the regular block and measure.

On the bust height line go in 2% inches. At bottom on

waist line the same.

Place 2% inches on under armhole side seam, as shown on

diagram, and go forward '%4 of the waist measurement, plus
2 inches. If more room is wanted for the bust, it will be pro-
vided between the notches below the bust.

Join the dotted center line at the shoulder to the bust point.
‘ Cut out | inch from each side at top of shoulder, and as per dia-
gram, replace the same on armhole and on neck.

If bust is not very large, of course, take out less. If bust is

hollow, do not take away anything, but use the diagram without
any changes. :

Shoulder at back—as with fore shoulder, divide in half and

go forward % inch, adding the amount to the armhole.

At back, go in 3 inches on waist line. Place the same 3

inches on under armhole side seam and come back % of waist
measure, plus 4 inch.

Now join all the lines together as shown on diagram.

For slender person, or loose coat, it is unnecessary to cut

out anything on back shoulder. Leave this plain, the same as
where shoulder is divided.

Page Seventy-four
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Page Seventy-five
RO ETE ot ep AS OO RT
[wre Weiler Inwswtrrucct or]
ch EEE IER IS PER COINS SEE | LOOT TEN BENE ILRI OREO Se BaD ES UR: \~

Panel Front and Panel Back Tailored Coat.

r ¥ e nN

Use the same arrangement as on diagram 75 and finish in

same manner at bottom and hip line as on diagram 73. Observe
carefully how the diagrams look. For collar and button and
button holes look at pages 34-35.

Page Seventy-six
 ey To PS TT AE TOP Y
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[oun e Weiler Inwtrructo x] |
TENS ER NS
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Page Seventy-seven
Qe Ep Y SA SEE ARR SS BIG NE OO OR RSA iB
<A .
[iwre Weiler Inswtrructo x] at|
aM EES EEA
SRS SES ee SE | IC NE Aa RR ay EES REE IT 8 PN a

A ae :
Tight Fitted Waist.

At depth of armhole line go in from center back 3 inches.

Now continue 4 inch farther. Divide the space between this
\ inch and undex armhole point in half.

At back on armhole go down 134 inches. From this con-

tinue to 234 inches.

Connect 134 and 3 with dotted line. Run a ™% inch diag-

onal line from middle of the dotted line, to secure the round
seam line, as shown on diagram.

At bottom of back on waist-line go in %4 inch, which makes

the back draw in, producing a better fit. From this point go in j
1% inches, which gives width of back. Cut out 34 inches.

Now go in 2% inches farther. Cut out % inch. Now go

in 2% inches, and you have the waist measure.

Round out each of the 2 under armhole lines 1% inch, to

make a better fit.

For a large measurement, add enough to the 2% inches to

increase the space according to the size wanted. The back
should always remain 114 inches.

Page Seventy-eight
PN FIRE Stan RSE EVE
ARSE AES RE SSE NEON ESE Tol PAP EEG DEES BIT SE BON TERETE I ONE GEES. ie
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[iwire Weiler Inswtrructo x) |
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FA ee | CE SON BR ORR ALPES OTN RNS

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Page Seventy-nine
Cyan a lf PEAR EARP RRR Sa EBON NE NOE PRE ge TA -
a
piwnre Weiler
e
Inwtrrue tor] ee|
7 PERRY eR RANI RECN Oa SEE | ARE AP SRNR A RR RG OO REE BAP OR ‘e

ies : : ~ : .
Finished
Pe
Coat, Tight Fitted Back. Semi-Fitted Front.

Same instructions apply for back and front, as on former

diagrams, excepting that a tight fitting coat should be cut in
more parts.
Go out % inch at the back hip line, to obtain the outline of
back. From this point go in 34 inch to A, which gives the back
side seam.

Secure B, by dividing the distance from A to C in half,

from B go backward 34 inch and from this point arc backward
and forward in each direction 24 inches, which gives the width
of the second side piece.

Be sure that all the lines from waist to bottom are of equal
length. The back width of hip line must always be 14 inch more
than that on waist line.

If hip measure is to be larger or smaller than 40 inches,

make the size from the 34 on second side piece at hip line, ac-
cordingly larger or smaller, instead of 2'%4 from the B-34. But
between A and C always divide the same % to get B.

For collar and button and button holes look at pages 34-35.

Page Highty
 NTE ALT ETO RIT SS OP ERT a Fee OO TE SH RAL EAR -
2 =. oe
[iwre Weiler Inwtrruncto rai
pA a | POI GEER SORES PERG STRATES ER NS

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Page Bighty-one
RN epee EEEea Og] psn eA STE EE
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he EES eA
NES SER ITI EE | LR TP ATEN BRE A MRR aH SOE OEMS HPS a

Riding Habit Coat. Hip Measure 40 inches.

The instructions for the top are similar to those already

given for a tight fitting coat.

On front waist line, go in 34 inches and from this 2 inches,

instead of 2% inches. At bottom 4 inches, and join together.
From 4 at bottom, go in 414 inches and join together with
waist line as shown in diagram.

The back width on waist line is 114 inches. On hip line it

is 134 inches, just '4 inch more, as on the waist line.

From 134YA inches 8 go out to A | inch.

Go in 5 inches from A. Go in 5 inches from C: B is lo-

cated between these two 5 inch lines. From B, arc backward
and forward 2% inches in each direction. This gives the sec-
ond side piece. Add to edge front from waist line to top 2
inches. From waist line to bottom |'% inches, for button and
button holes.

If a slit is desired in back, 134 inches of additional cloth

will be required from the waist line to bottom. All the lines
from waist to bottom must be of equal length.

Allow more cloth on hip line of riding habit than for ordi-
nary coats, as a riding habit demands more fullness at the seat.
Cut out % inch about 5 inches deep on neck. If hip is more or
less than 40 inches, make the fives accordingly more or less.

Page Bighty-two
Ninn a GY Ra CDS TOT A ET ES
Fe s
[{iwne Weiler Inwswtrructo rai Ea
aw. EEE TRI SEARS NBR
RE AERIS SOE ENS | PR EAT BRET EME SSIES BRE ge SRS Na

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Page Bighty-three
We Oe Tn ey AR REG Re A ERNIE UTES NET IOAN. SETAE, ep

[iwire Weiler Instrructor|

hs REGU EERE
REA NS PRES OCA NNN Ns ELE Ns | LR Fe RN BENE BERR
OEE GE ORE NPT SPER \~

= a é
Raglan Style Waist.

First take out on block the size desired, to comply with bust
measure. Connect back and front of line at depth of under arm-
hole with both shoulder points at armhole. On front portion
of neck go up 14 inch and in % inch. From shoulder point—
on back go down 234 inches—on front 314 inches. On back
shoulder point go up % inch.

From center of under armhole, go forward and backward

in each direction about 2% inches.

Draw a line down % inch. Now go upward 2% inches.

Go down again and draw a 14 inch line from each side of the
regular armhole line. Now connect all the numbers as shown
on diagram. You may then produce from this, any style raglan
coat or waist.

However, to cut a larger coat, instead of 14 inch allow %

inch, and instead of 1% allow 34 inch around the armhole.

If the bust is very large, take out from shoulder to the bust
point—and replace the same as per instructions for other coats.

Page Eighty-four
RN eSB OGURA? ere a Oe ERS TT OD
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[iwnre Weiler Inwtrruct or|'|
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Page Highty-five
AS a hp ata a EL
[: One Weiler Instructor |
ms EERE WRENS SRSA NE EN ERERR | IRF RS ORT RR SOHC ORE BaP E BS RR we

Raglan Style Overcoat.

: ~~

Follow same instructions as on diagram 85. S

As stated before, allow % instead of 14, and 34 instead of

¥4, around the armhole.

At back of waist line go out 11%. Join together with neck

down to desired length of coat.

On under armhole waist line, go backward 2 inches from

the front line. Also go forward 2 inches from the back, and
join these together from under armhole point to length of coat
wanted. The first line represents the back. The back line rep-
resents the front part. Add 4 inches to edge if front is to be
double breasted, for single breasted 2% inches.

About 4 inches below top of neck, cut out % inch under the
lapel as per diagram. Making collars, see the page where a
complete finished semi-fitted tailored coat is shown.

Page Bighty-six
DN PE Na OO TG ELE Pr OE TERRE BS BOLI LEBEN Oe NEET ORES RTE, wy
2 = ae
[iwre Weiler Inwewtrrue to r||
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Page Righty-seven
 INS se pa PS ESSER
GATE cg Pg oom NT
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[iownre Weiler Insetrractor|: a
ss PRE REE ANS IS II EE | LI NEN TERESI
EERE BAPE nO ea

Instructions For Kimona Style—Front and Back.

= rN 2. =H

This diagram shows how easily any kimono sleeve pattern

can be made from the Weiler Block.

Two different kimono sleeve coats are shown here. The

: top has loose armhole, and the other slightly fitted armhole.

Just follow the diagram; it is very simple, requiring abso-

lutely no system. The back and front of kimono sleeve coats
cannot be cut together. The single crossed notch represents
loose armhole. On back from armhole shoulder point go up
4 inch. From the under armhole depth line go out 13!4 inches.
On this line go up 234 inches and down 3% inches. From under
armhole point go down 1% inches and connect as shown on dia-
gram. The single crossed notch on back should come directly
under the single crossed notch on front, for which follow same
directions as for back. The front shoulder armhole point must
remain the same as on block.

The 22 inches on top sleeve is the length of sleeve, but you

can make according to your measure.

The double crossed notch slightly fitted armhole with a line

similar to back outline, square up 4 inches from the shoulder and
neck point.

From armhole shoulder point go up 1% inch, connecting

with 4. This gives the top sleeve and shoulder seam. Draw
line down to the length of sleeve measure, 261%. From same
armhole shoulder point go down ™% inch. Curve from neck
shoulder point, drawing the line through 4 down to 26% inches.
Go down 334 inches from under armhole point.

From 261% square down to 61% inches, which gives the half
sleeve width. Connect 6% and 334 under armhole point, with
a line 13 inches long.

Round the line about | inch below 334, so wearer may inore
conveniently raise her arm. Adhere to same instructions for
front. The crossed double notches are guides for properly
matching and putting together the back and front.

Single notches on front must be directly over the single

notches on back, and same rule should be applied with double
notches.

Page Eighty-eight
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[ionre Weiler Inwswtrrc\ea tor]

a RIE ap NS RR ENO ER | ARI OE Ra OC EE BAPE SO ~

; a 5 :
Kimono Sleeve Coat, Dress or Waist Without Shoulder Seams.

Put back and front shoulders together on any portions of

your drawing paper. From neck draw a straight line down on
the shoulder seam 23% inches, or length of sleeve desired.

Square 6 inches to left and 6 inches to right of 23%.

On both under armhole points, go 3% inches to left and 3%
inches to right, and connect each with the 6 inch points at both
sides, which are the sleeve bottoms, about 13 inches long
from 31%.

The 2314 inch point is somewhat longer than the 6 inch

points at either side, because the shoulder requires this extra
material.

Letter B represents back.

Letter F represents front.

Page Ninety
Re OES T Ee ee RP ee ee A
2 WW : 1 ad
[wine eiler Inswtrractor|
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Page Ninety-one
A ea EE Sse T REAR ES IE A RSS PS aRRA OR RINE UES I” oor A we
Fed © Eid
[iwre Weiler Inwswtrruct or|'|
Me EL REESE
ECAR IE EEE | LEST NRE AR SOHNE GRE EEN

Extra Large Sizes Tailored Coat.

This diagram shows that a coat of size 50 bust can be made

in the same way as any other coat.

To get more room for the bust, take out more from top of
front shoulder to bust point than for a normal size as shown
11% and 134. Always add to each side what you cut out from
shoulder to bust point.

On front waist line go in 3 inches instead of 2% inches.

Place this 3 inches on under armhole side seam line, and go

forward one-half the waist measure, plus 2 inches. Remember
this 4 is a 4 from the half waist measure.

Width of back on waist line is 3 inches. Place this on under

armhole side seam line, and come back one-half waist measure,
plus | inch. Cut out the cloth which remains between the lines.

On the back hip line go in 314 inches, or % inch more than

on waist line. On this line go back 1 inch to the line which is
to be sewed to the back seam.

At an equal distance from the front piece 3, draw a line

down from the second front piece line where the 4 and 2 are
located. The 3 on front hip line added to the 314 on back hip
line makes 614 inches.

Now figure the remainder of hip measure and divide by

2, now arc backward 4 from second front seam, and arc forward
other half from the | inch at back seam line.

The under armhole side seam is located at center where arc

lines cross. Add to edge 2% inches for single breasted coat,
31% or 4 inches for double breasted coat. For collar, buttons
and button holes see pages 34-35.

Page Ninety-two
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Page Ninety-three
 DNRe soe Ro SP, as Oe
piwre Weiler Inswtrracto xr] |
e ze

A REGUS ENS RE SEC INN SEE | LEE BREN ENE LARRY OEE GO ORE NPE S RAE a

Diagram Showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip Finished Coat.

z This diagram shows how to make an extra large coat—52

bust and 62 hip measure—by adding an extra piece at the under
armhole line.

Divide the distance from the back waist line 3, to the under
armhole side seam, by arcing forward three times.

Arc backward just one-third as much, from side seam on

under armhole. Back hip line is always 314 inches; from this go
backward '% inch, and sew together with back. From same 4,
arc forward three times the width of back hip line.

From front edge of extra piece 3%, arc back 2 inches, to

get second front under armhole seam. From this arc backward
3% inches to other edge of under armhole extra piece.

Should hip measure be larger or smaller, reduce or enlarge

the 31% and 2 portions accordingly, but the 3!4 on back hip line
always remains the same.

Collar, buttons and button holes, see pages 34-35.

Page Ninety-four
NC Gl Ta TT ae
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[iwre Weiler Inwtrructo ral
Fed

a TELE Cap AREA NS RI SR IRS OEE BR | OI RE BERETS ECE OO aS ORR a

< ¢ <

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Page Ninety-five
QU Se ‘OEE Y ic ee JA
2 .
[iene Wweiler Inswtrruct o r||a
a PES" AER RAIS DS ECA MRE EER | AES TP TEN HRN ARR OC ROS Ere

5 5 a
Plain Tailored Sleeve.

Mark through the numbers on block which are the same as

bust measure, and join together as shown on diagram.

Page Ninety-six
nN TOES
pS ETAT RIE I SARE EN ONE COO CEE WI EA ry ESTEE Bice a RN RITA BORAT MOET ENN gS HE, ie
2 . oa
[wire Weiler Inwswtrruct or}'|
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Page Ninety-seven
QO ? PAR EEG Die RRM IT SBE ON ARTE UO RANE ERAS, JA
eB = x
[ionre Weiler Inwtrru)e tor||
Y, PEAR EER ANS DRS OCA NENG ELE | API PANE Aa Oe EIS RE SE ie ~

: - =
Tailored Sleeve With Front Seam Turned In.

Allow 34 inch on front sleeve seam, from the regular block

on front line.

Take same amount away from similar portion on under

sleeve. Stretch the top sleeve well on the front seam at elbow
portion, and at the same time shape the under sleeve in like pro-
portion. This regulates the seam, causing it to always turn in
properly. Also, for this reason under sleeve should contain a
little more cloth at top and bottom.

Make the elbow and sleeve lengths according to your meas-

urements. Place the sleeve front seams in 2!4 inches forward
from under armhole coat seam.

All sizes of sleeves are made in the same manner.

Page Ninety-eight
PN a a SY dag LT TT ET
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Inseswtrructo x] ad|
y, EEE pM AER NSS SRA Ne INT a EET | oF NET Ba RG OEE SS GSES RR SE eA ~

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Page Ninety-nine
ee | ee
2 *
[wre Wwe i1iler Inwtrructo x] at|
y REPU REN SRS SECA IRIN ELT RS 4 RTP NRE BERR
SO CEE ORE aD tS IR a

Pleated Sleeve.

This diagram shows you how you can make a very full
sleeve and a pleated top sleeve.

Draw a straight line through middle of top sleeve. Draw

a straight line out from end of top sleeve.

For a gathered sleeve, go up | inch and out 1% inches from

end of top sleeve.

For a pleated top sleeve, go up twice as much and connect

as per diagram.

For turned in sleeve seam, use same directions as shown in

diagram No. 99.

Page One Hundred

 ee Ee Toa
me :
[one Weiler Inweswtrructo xr} x|
% EELS ca EERNS PORES SCN ERENT En | re

Page One Hundred One

NS BCA ERR BEE PORIRUA RENE OY ESE LS ! ee a ee a ee wy
% e at
[pion e Weiler Inwewtrraoa tor)
ms PRES eS
PR AN IT SEE i LEO Te ANE Ba RE SOM
ORE HEP na ~

Raglan Sleeve.
ce

The front seam may, be made similar to No. 97, or with

turned in seam like No. 99.

From front sleeve point go down 2% inches to A. In back

go down 334 to B. Connect A with B, and divide the line in
half. Locate 34 on under sleeve. From this portion, which is
about 5% inches below center dot between A and B, draw a
straight line across under sleeve and divide in half. Repeat this
performance at bottom of under sleeve. Now you have the
center of top sleeve seams.

On top of upper sleeve go in 5 inches. From this go in

1 inch and from here go in 34 inch.

Draw a line from A through 5 to a degree 7 inches be-

yond 5. Draw a line from B through | to a degree 7 inches
beyond 1. Add a 3% width on each of both ends at 7. This will
finish the width on neck. On the under sleeve end go down
¥Y inch. From here go down % inch. Now connect ™%, 5, 7
and 3g. Connect %, 34, 7 and 3%. This rounds out sufficient
room for the shoulders.

The two opposite crosses on end of each shoulder portion

will show the correct location for the shoulder ends.

At both sides, go down 5 inches below the 34 at top 7. On

the front go out 214 inches C from the shoulder seam. On the
back from the shoulder seam go out 234 D. From end of top
sleeve above B, go 1% inch higher, and % inch out from the 4.

Connect 3%, 234 D and % with B 334. Go up 2 inches on

top end of front sleeve. Connect 3% at 7 with 214 C and 2, which
is 2 inches higher from front sleeve point.

All sizes of raglan sleeves are made in the same way. Ar-
range the elbow and length according to your measurements.
The length from end of shoulder to 7 make according to meas-
urements.

Page One Hundred Two

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piwre weiler Inwtrructo ||st
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Page One Hundred Three

Wie ae Ce eg PEA RED ERT BN TESS RENIN NG ME ORR oP AE, ep
od e Pi
[piwre Weiler Inwtrract o r|'|
A PERE AERA ANS PRES SE INS SE j ARI Ne AEE RRR OEONES BPRS OUR a

Cape Without Shoulder Seam.

Place the back and front shoulder together on any part of

cutting paper. Draw any style cape or collar, and make as long
as you want it.

The side shoulder seam should be made 2 inches longer than

front and back, in accordance to shoulder.

If to be made with buttons and button holes, leave two ad-

ditional inches on front.

Page One Hundred Four

NS ERE pRB BENE ENE AS AI NAHE SCS ROO CESS t SEAR LG LED NIT SE BIG BTR IE UE SORE, DELETE. JA

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Weiler Insetrructor| if
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Page One Hundred Five

Re ETE OE wae Y PEAR EERIE ES RAL ROAR NEE TOSSA ote TE Ww
2 :
[iwire Weiler Inswtrructo x] a
wi SELES AEE NR
A Se NEE | EO ANCE Ba ES REE A 8 OR: NY

Cape With Shoulder Seam.

Lay the shoulders together; however, the front must be on

a straight line according to the nap or stripe of cloth.

Front about 29 inches long. Back 2 inches longer.

From the neck through the shoulder, the side length is the
same as the front, 29 inches.

When the back and front shoulders are laid together, draw
center back line on a level with the front line.

On the shoulder line, draw a straight line for side seam

down to 29 inch. From this point, arc backward and forward
6 inches in each direction.

From these points, draw two lines to be joined at shoulder

end where the armhole end shows. As a guide to properly space
these lines to end of shoulder, at a degree about 2 inches below
shoulder armhole and a width of 4 inch on each side.

For buttons and button holes, 114 inches should be allowed.

Page One Hundred Six

NO OL RE ET oa T PE EERE ET RNID SERED EIEN OEM, EEE, we

2
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Page One Hundred Seven

AC ee Sl I
pione Weiler Inwswtrraca tor}'|
2a o Fad

ch REGU ERE REA ARS SROC A IRENE EER | LR Pete Aa RRR SOE EEG OED REE IE 8 ‘a

High Collar Cape.

Put the front and back shoulder together exactly of equal height and width,
so that the lines will both be the same.
Divide the rounded neck portion in half. Go 1% inches to left and right
from the center in each direction. From same center point draw up 3% inches,
and go out 2 inches at each side of this point.
Divide portion from end of bottom to end of neck into three parts, and con-
nect same as on diagram.
Cut front and back part portions, after the finished center part, as shown on
diagram. Sew the three pieces together in a manner to cause the proper flare
at the top. For buttons and button holes allow 1% or 2 inches on front.

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Page One Hundred Light

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Page One Hundred Nine

 a | ee ce ee yw
2 - Ps
[piwrne Weiler Inestrructor|
hs PRE ERLE
RES ICANT SNE ELERR | hI IRE TORR SOE NEE ORE HAPS ORR: ~

Skirt Back and Front.

A shows how the skirt front and back appears, after proper
numbers are marked through the block.

Make skirt according to your measures and desired length.

The two crossed notches is where the two parts of skirt come
together.

B. Select and mark through on block the numbers as per

your hip measure. The skirt front and back and the waist line
always remain the same on the block.

My block is adjustable according to the hip measure, as the

accurate waist measure cannot always be procured. The same
hip measurement is often required to be used with several dif-
ferent waist measurements.

If waist measure be same proportion as on block, make no

changes. If waist measure be larger or smaller than on block,
enlarge or reduce accordingly on front and back, from waist line
to hip line. Hip line always remains the same.

For a high fitted waist skirt, extend and enlarge the waist
accordingly.

Page One Hundred Ten

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Page One Hundred Eleven

Se eee | TAR ERG DE RSG LT SE BOTT EH OEE, GPG AE. ie

[ione Weiler Inwwetrructoso x]

Pad e ae

ah RES eR ANS RS ROCA IROL ELT | oR Fa ERR ong SO EG SORES MST ES UN ~

Skirt Without Side Seam.

For seamless back and front, cut on the straight center front
and center back line, at the folded edge of cloth.

For skirt without side seam, put the two crossed notches to-
gether as shown on diagram. In this manner skirt can also be
made with a seam in center back only.

To get the skirt wider at bottom than block permits, square

down from waist line over hip line to any width bottom, also
any length.

Page One Hundred Twelve

Xs ANE Bn RR OO BSI SAREE EGS NESE PY ESE Tal A i Ge OTB BN II SS BOS TREN ORE GREER, ZB
Be
plone Weiler Inwswtrracto x]
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ch BRE AERA
IPS OCA NDEI SEE | LEIP EN BARE OCT EG ORE HEPES ORS: a

Vait

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Page One Hundred Thirteen

Nien, Ona ne Eo hp PA AER GT ENT VARIN TR ENE OER, SERBIA, we
ne e
[one Weiler Inwtrracto x)"
KE

mh ERR aR AER ASAT NOLIN | i ESI SARS SENS SEEN ERR

Panel Front and Panel Back.

Use the block in same way as for other skirts.

For panel front, go in 4 inches on top front waist line. Go

in 5 inches on same line on skirt bottom. Join these together.

For panel back do likewise, but change the 4 inches to 314

inches, and the 5 inches to 414 inches, because the back panel is
always made smaller than front panel.

If to be made with pleats, start same 12 or [4 inches above

the bottom. 4 inches of additional cloth is required for each
pleat.

If panel back is not wanted, front remains the same. Put °

a seam on center back and allow 4 inches at each side for pleat.

If wanted without seam in center back, cut the entire back

in one piece and make the seam at the side.

To get the correct waist measurement on panel front and

panel back skirt, first cut out 14 inch from the end of front piece
panel seam. Then add the difference from the 4 inch front
panel to side seam, and from the 3% inch back panel, do the
same way.

Page One Hundred Fourteen

 Ne
[win
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Instructor]
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Page One Hundred Fifteen

 aT ENT Sg Dar eA AE
BB eo ze
pine weiiler Inwewtrruct or|'|
y Re ee | LA NARA ERRAND TENS OOO

Seven Piece Skirt.

Lay the two crossed notches together on hip line and allow
skirt to run as per dotted lines on diagram.

To get the depth of hip line, go down 7 inches from front,

and 8 inches from back of waist line. On the front waist line go
in 2% inches, now cut out % inch. On hip line 7, go in 234
inches. Draw a line from 2% through 234 to desired length.

On back waist line go in 234 inches. On hip line 8, go in 3

inches. From 234 cut out | inch. From center of same draw a
line through 3 to desired length.

Divide in half the distance between the 1 inch cut out at

back, and the 14 inch at front.

As an example, suppose this waist measured 22 inches. Take

one-half the waist measure, which is 11 inches. Now go in 3
inches from the % inch cut-out on front panel. Also 3 inches
from the | inch cut-out on back panel.

Add together front panel 21% and back panel 234, with the
two 3 inch spaces on waist line, which give you the 11 inches,
or one-half the waist measurement.

When the waist measures more or less than 22 inches, the

two 3 inch portions on the waist line should be enlarged or re-
duced accordingly. The front and back panels always remain
the same.

Cut away all which remains between the two 3 inch por-
tions, to get the side seam line.

For the bottom side seam, also divide in half the distance
between front and back panel seam, and connect as shown on
diagram. Skirt may be made as long as desired.

Back pleat requires 4 inches. Skirt may be fastened at front,

back or side. Leave 3 inches for facing.

Page One Hundred Sixteen

ws Ga TL TY PA EEG BELT RN IT GE BETTE IEE ORT, GEES J
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Page One Hundred Seventeen

A ee BSE SEE OS A dts I OR ET
2 . it
[iwre Weiler Insewtrractor |
Y, BRAS eR ARNIS ORS ISR S Sapren arc, SERS | oR ET a RE eR OURO RE Sat ns SOS: Na

Pleated Skirt.

These instructions will come in handy, as the styles are fre-

quently changing.
Connect the two crosses, allowing the side lines to run as
shown on diagram No. 117. Draw a line on front, back and
side according to your length of skirt.

On the waist line, go in 2 inches on front. On hip line 7,

go in 2% inches. Go in 334 inches on back of waist line. On
hip line 8, go in 4% inches.

Divide the top waist line between inside end of 334 and front
end of waist line 2, into as many pieces as you desire to make the
skirt. From each one of these evenly divided portions take away ;
an equal amount of cloth, in order to get your proper size of
waist.

To get the side seam, divide the space from front to back
in half at the bottom.

Divide the bottom evenly into same number of pieces as at

top waist line. Now connect the waist line and bottom as shown
on diagram. Allow 4 inches for pleat on back.

Page One Hundred Fighteen

Cea ea EET say FE CLEAR TINT ELT EE ae

[iwnre Wweiler Inwtrructo rai

ne eo

ig LF IDE
NERS I TOE ORIEN OE | PIER
SCORES SHEA REISE LETS RNS

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Page One Hundred Nineteen

PN aa Y TEA aE OI IR RST RNSIES BON BIR AG NE RE gE AE. -
a
ge
[ioe Weiler Inwtrruea toxr|'|
ERA
NS IS
A, PEO PER IOC SEN IN SEER | LORI RN TNE EEG ONG ERE HEP ~

Riding Breeches.
From X square in. Also square down from X to desired length of breeches.

To get No. 12, go in one-half waist measure, less 1 inch.

From 12 go down 1% inches to B, and continue the same straight line down
to same length as side line X. From X go in 5 inches.

Connect 5 with B 1%4 to get the top part of waist line. From 12 go back
2% inches. From 2% go up 2% D.

From side X go in 2 inches. From 2 go up to Cl.

Connect C | and 2% D. This gives you waist line on under trousers. ‘To
get your waist size, measure from A to B, and from C forward add one-half of
what remains, and from D backward add the other half.

Cut out what is left between C and D as shown on diagram.

From top side X go down 12 inches to E. This is the measure taken from
waist to angle of seat while lady is sitting in a chair.

On 12 E go in 1% inch. Draw a line in from 12 E through 0.

From dot which connects 12 E and 12, go out 5 inches, and up 5 inches.

Join the end of each 5 together with a line, and divide the same in half,
which gives the 31%4 on diagram. On the line which goes up 5 inches, go out 1%
inches. Now connect B1%, 3% and §.

From 12 E go down 4 inches. From this 4 draw a line in 15% inches.

From this 151% go out 4 inches. Connect with a straight line 4 and 2% D.
From D 2% to 4, connect with a little round dot line as shown on diagram.

On your length go in 41%4 F. Connect this 4% with 4 at side line, as shown

on diagram. From F 4% go in 6% inches to get the width of bottom of under
breeches. Connect 6% to 4 X as shown on diagram.
From F 41% go in 10 inches for the bottom top of breeches, which is al-
ways about 4 inches larger than bottom of under breeches.
From 10 go up 134. Join 134 to F 41%4. Now join the same 134 with 5, o,
through 15%.
FOR CUFFS, draw on any part of your cutting paper, a straight line 18%4
inches across or same length as width of bottom of breeches. It requires 10
inches for bottom of top breeches. It requires 614 inches for bottom of under
breeches and 2 inches for buttons and button holes. At side go down 1% inches.
Go in 2 inches on bottom. On the other side go down | inch. Go in 1%
inches and connect as shown on diagram. Join the cuffs to the bottom of breeches
so that all the parts match perfectly.
Cuffs can be made any desired width, whether 4, 6, 8 or 10 inches,

Page One Hundred Twenty

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Page One Hundred Twenty One
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as 4 17) °
Riding Habit Skirt.
Waist measure 26; hip measure 45; length 42. From 16% go through 34 and 634. From 634
If measures are larger or smaller than these pro- 0 through 34 and connect with A. :
portions, change the hip and waist measures ac- On line 17% go in 734, 8%, 22.
cordingly. ao Cut out portion between 734 and 814.
11% on underskirt 1, is the depth of hip line. Ends of darts C, 22 and 23 will come together.
1134 is depth of hip line on top skirt 2. From front straight line on 25 go in 3% and
From these lines, skirts can be made larger or 23% A.
smalier, as may be desired. To get width of skirt bottom, go in 314 and
In order to get your waist measure, reduce or about 28 inches.
enlarge size of darts accordingly. On 31% go up to 6 and from 6 go out 4.
The arrows show in which direction the nap of On 28 go up 114. Now match and join all the
material should run. ‘Lhe arrows in the extra parts carefully together as shown in diagram.
piece D on the front skirt also show in which Top Parts of Riding Habit Skirt No. 2.
direction the nap of material should run. Again draw a straight line across top.
To join the left side of underskirt and top skirt Also draw a parallel line down from sleeves and
together properly, first cut out and sew part C go down 3, 5, 614, 10, 1134, 1334, 1514, 17%,
together on left side skirt, then connect A with A. 2314, 29, ik
On part B of left side 1 is shown two buttons. On top line go in 2514, 2914.
On top skirt 2 part B is shown 2 button holes. On line 3 go in 2434, 4314.
These indicate the proper iocation for same. Join together 2514, 291%, 4314 as shown on
On 1 and 2, hooks and eyes, clasps and buttons diagram. ‘This line gives you the opening on the
and button holes can be made on extra pieces D. extra piece D.
Left side No. 1 wili require 114 inches of addi- On line 5 go in 634, 2314, 4114. Join this with
tional cloth. _ 25%, 2434, 23% to get part of the waist line on
The four bottom buttons should always remain extra piece D.
closed. “They may even be sewed together, so that On line 6%4 go in 6, 10, 1344, 17%, 2134, 26,
leit opening at top represents the placket, or part 4034. :
pier oe laos The pockets are al- Giese, orden cinch On (0 olan
mays ie we \ Pi - 1 ch Boe de inch. Now join together for part of the waist line.
The cloth always cuts single, and with face side On 13% go down % inch. On 17% go down
up. Sew together from end to end, extra piece D Lege) Nowmconnect with 21g) for part“ofithe Watse
on top, and extra piece D on left side 1. poe ee P
Number 1. Draw a straight line across the top, als: aa ‘ ay
and from front end of same draw a parallel line On line 10 go in 47, 107, 1134, 26, 29/4, 4014,
down to a depth of 45% inches. On this front ace 1134 go in 4, 1034,1134, 29, 3134, 41, 4914
line go down 1 inch, 3 inches, + inches, 834 inches, 5034. 74 ee tity Sige) G23. Zaire)
ec inches, 1334 inches, 16%4, 1714 inches, 25 Oi line 1334 oi 394, 1084, 1034, 3154, 32,
Beets : : oF 37, 4234, 4534, 48, 5034.
Go in on line 1, 9 inches and 1134 inches. Go On 4534 go down 134 inch and connect with
up 14 on 9. ; _ 4234, 1%, 48, 4914, 5034, as shown on diagram.
Connect 914 with 1134, which makes a part of Also connect 4314, 4114, 401%, 4014, 41, 37, to
the waist line. On line 3 go in 8, 12 and 16 inches. get the end of the extra piece.
This gives you the width cut out between 12 and On short line 151% go in 334 and 10, which is
16. On line + go in 734, 1134, 1434 and 21¥%. the end of darts.
Connect 16 to 2114, which also gives a part of On 17% go in 334 and 3634, which shows loca-
the waist line. tion of knee where extra piece D should be placed.
On line 834 go in 5%, 11, 22. The position of On 23% go in 334. On 29 go in 244.
the 5% shows location of placket, or place where NOW MEASURE length on left side of Un-
skirt closes. oe - e :
No. 11 shows the ends of darts. art A. From 21% to bottom 174 make the
re : same length as top skirt.
No. 22 is 1 inch less than one-third of hip meas- Now Qian: Part Av waich will messieeven: line.
ek. ; 4) 634 to same length as No. 1, line A.
On line 1114, go in 4%, 10, 15, 22%. On bottom go in % inch. From the front
Number 10 shows the seam line. straight line %4, go down 5%.
No. 15 shows the ends of C darts. On 5% go in 53 inches for width of skirt.
On line 1334 go in 2%, 91%, 1734, 23. Now join 53 and 5034 together with a straight
No. 1734 shows the seam on C darts, line.
No. 23 shows ends of darts. Connect all the lines as shown on diagram.

Page One Hundred Twenty Two

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Page One Hundred TwentyThree

 Designing Suits and Long Coats.
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Ho. 4g the same, ready to use
— 9555 P76 without any system
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Page One Hundred Twenty Four
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Lay up this little block on any part of the paper. Draw a line around the
end, and make as many different styles as you wish.
You know one cannot accomplish anything without a little practice, so do
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Page One Hundred Twenty Five
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 Tr
Weiler
515
he Weiler ladies tailor- wh
dressmaker, designer, cutter ,1915
fitter book.
| Hn