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01_697580-ffirs.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page i

Budapest
day day BY
™

1st Edition

by Robert Smyth

A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication

02_697580-ftoc.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page ii

Contents
15 Favorite Moments 1
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 5
The Best in One Day 6
The Best in Two Days 12
The Best in Three Days 16

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 21

The Best Art Nouveau 22
The Best Baths 26
Turkish Traces 30
The Best Coffee Houses 34
Budapest with Kids 38
Revolutionary Budapest 40
Communist Budapest—Behind
the Iron Curtain 44

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 49

Belváros 50
The Jewish Quarter 54
The Watertown (Víziváros) 58
The Castle District 60

4 The Best Shopping 65

Shopping Best Bets 66
Budapest Shopping A to Z 71

5 The Best of the Outdoors 81

City Park 82
Buda Hills 86
Margaret Island 88

6 The Best Dining 91

Dining Best Bets 92
Budapest Dining A to Z 98
02_697580-ftoc.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page iii

7 The Best Nightlife 109

Nightlife Best Bets 110
Budapest Nightlife A to Z 116

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 125

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 126
Arts & Entertainment A to Z 130

9 The Best Lodging 135

Lodging Best Bets 136
Budapest Lodging A to Z 140

10 The Best Day Trips &

Excursions 145
The Danube Bend 146
A Wine Country Detour 148
Lake Balaton 152
Pécs 154
Eger 156

The Savvy Traveler 159

Before You Go 160
Getting There 163
Getting Around 163
Fast Facts 164
Budapest: A Brief History 168
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 169
Toll-free Numbers and Websites 173

Index 174
03_697580-flast.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page iv

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03_697580-flast.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page v

A Note from the Editorial Director

Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then
expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are
different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then
they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient
way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by
time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with
a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Hoping to tour the best in Habsburg and art nouveau ‘szecesszio’

architecture as well as see what traces the communists and Turks
left behind? Looking to taste your way through Budapest’s burgeon-
ing restaurant scene, sample Hungary’s fine wines and hang out at
the city’s hippest nightspots? Whatever your interest or schedule,
the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do
we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we
also help you access those special moments that locals get to expe-
rience—those ‘finds’ that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one
complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and
restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the
wildest nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally
visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who
say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t
recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions
from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your com-
ments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and we’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion

you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director

Frommer’s Travel Guides
03_697580-flast.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page vi

About the Author

Robert Smyth is a Budapest-based British journalist who hails from the
River Mersey directly across from Liverpool. He has been living in Budapest
for around 15 years during which time he’s seen certain aspects of the city
change beyond recognition, but can still find enough old world and quirky
charm to keep him there. He holds a degree in Economics from the UK,
which he followed up with an MBA at Budapest’s former Karl Marx Univer-
sity only to find that writing holds more appeal than the world of business.
He has written print and online guides respectively for the Blue Guides and
Whatsonwhen; he also writes columns on wine tasting for the local English-
language press and is Business New Europe’s correspondent for Hungary.
When not writing about traveling or wine, he likes to travel and taste wine.

Acknowledgments
For my partner Ágnes Molnár, our son Alex, my mother Sylvia and late
father Robert Snr.

I’d like to give a big thanks to the Molnár family for their ongoing support
throughout, photographer Bianca Otero and the Frommer’s UK editorial
team, the former with whom it was a pleasure to work with once again and
the latter for the first time. Many thanks to all of you who have accompa-
nied me on the great adventure that has been Budapest during the last
15 years. From drinking with me in the dingiest of wine bars to devouring
goose liver in the finest restaurants, you’re too many to mention but you
know who you are.

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or
call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, edi-
tors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of read-
ers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-
rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are
rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a= icon to point out
the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars or
restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a
shaded box marked with a coffee cup–shaped bullet P .

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
03_697580-flast.qxp 2/5/09 11:37 PM Page vii

Frommers.com
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our
website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more
than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant
access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates,
and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through
our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

A Note on Prices
In the ‘Take a Break’ and ‘Best Bets’ sections of this book, we have used a
system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the
price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree (main meal) at a
restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Cost Hotels Restaurants

$ under $100 under $10
$$ $100–$200 $10–$20
$$$ $200–$300 $20–$30
$$$$ $300–$400 $30–$40
$$$$$ over $400 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Budapest, Day by Day, 1st Edition

Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
04_697580-prechap01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page viii
04_697580-prechap01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page 1

15 Favorite
Moments
04_697580-prechap01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page 2

2
15 Favorite Moments
15 Favorite Moments
SZÉPVÖLGYI H 13 1 Great Market Hall

Fra
ÚT
2 Gyul Baba utca

nk
el L
3 Széchenyi Baths

e ó út
Szeréna ú
t
4 Budapest’s Thermal Baths
Zsigmond
tér Margitsziget 5 View of Pest from Buda Palace
. Árpád Fejedelem útja 6 View from Margaret Island
au
olt Hajós Alfréd 7 Buda Palace
Sar

Császár Nemzeti
gyógyfürdő sportuszoda 8 Rudás Baths
10 9 Statue Park
y u.

10 Budapest’s Kert “Garden” Bars

lőheg

Apostol u.

Lukács 11 Opera House

Szem

gyógyfürdő
MARGIT 12 Museum Káveház
Gül Baba
2 HÍD 6
türbeje 13 Sziget Festival (Hajógyárisziget)
Ró H
zsa
he
gy Margit Margit körút Margit 14 Castle District
u . tér híd
Budai alsó rakpart

Jászai 15 Jewish District

Mari tér
anube)

u.
rakpart
.
álint u

NYUGATI Nyugati zky

Balaton PÁLYAUDVAR pályaudvar anic
u.
Duna (D

Király dm
Balassi B
Pesti alsó

t M .
örú gyógyfürdő Po iu
tk nd
Fő ú t

n u. LIPOTVAROS Szo
i

Ir é
rg

Cs
yi
Varsán
Ma

en ös u
Eö
Néprajzi

ge
t
Bajcsy Zsilinszky út

ry
Csalogány u.
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Te Jóka
Országház Múzeum

u.
réz i u
Kossuth
.
Honvéd u.

B
kö .
Toldy Ferenc atthyány u.
rú
u. H M BATTHYÁNY Lajos tér
t
Báthory u.
Na

TÉR KOSSUTH
gy

M 3
VÍZIVÁROS
m

LAJOS TÉR
ez
Hold u.

OKTOGON M
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Bem rakpart

Szabadság
Széchenyi ra

VÁ tér Liszt
Operaház
Ferenc
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Halászbástya ARANY
14 M 11
u.

JÁNOS UTCA tér

Mátyás s u. OPERA M
Arany Jáno
kpart

templom Szt. István . Ernst

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isz Disz Széchenyi tér ZSILINSZKY ÚT ály
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ak Erzsébet DEÁK 15
örú Ádám tér .
t tér M FERENC TÉR yi u
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Kár
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t u. VÖRÖSMARTY M
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 04_697580-prechap01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page 3

15 Favorite Moments
B udapest is a destination packed with impressive sights,
including myriad buildings from the last great expansion phase
of the Habsburg Empire, but many of my favorite moments are spent
exploring the nooks and crannies that lie between the great edifices.
From bathing in atmospheric thermal baths, drinking unique wines in
funky bars in disused townhouse courtyards to exploring the city’s
Communist past, Budapest has many magic moments to savor.

1 Great Market Hall. I never get 4 Relaxing in the waters at any

bored of taking the number 2 tram one of Budapest’s classic thermal
winding past Parliament, impressive baths, switching between steaming
waterfront buildings and down the hot and ice-cold pools, sauna, and
river with the Castle District and Gel- steam and feeling as good as new.
lért Hill directly opposite on the way It’s the ideal way to clear the cob-
to buy ‘Hungaricums’ at the Great webs of the city’s nightlife excesses.
Market Hall. See p 17. See p 26.
2 Gyül Baba utca. Being trans- 5 View of Pest from Buda
u.
gati zky ported back to Turkish Budapest Palace. Gazing down in amazement
udvar anic
dm . when climbing up the steep and nar- at buzzing Pest from the relative
Po iu
nd row Gyul Baba utca, named after the tranquility—depending on how
Szo
Cs

dervish who brought the rose to many tourists are accompanying

en ös u
Eö

ge
tv

Buda. Pay your respects at his tomb.

ry

you—of the Buda Palace across the

eré ai

u.
z k u.

See p 31. river. It’s best in the morning as the

ör
út

3 Széchenyi Baths. Taking conti- city rolls into work opposite or lit up
KTOGON at night when the city folk start to
nental Europe’s oldest underground
Liszt play. See p 61.
z
Ferenc that shunts under swish Andrássy út
tér then soaking up the atmosphere at 6 Standing in the middle of
Ernst the neo-Baroque Széchenyi baths. the River Danube on Margaret
Múzeum See p 13 & 27. Island and looking downstream to
u. Klauzál
tér Relaxing in the neo-Baroque Széchenyi baths.
u.
nyi
selé
.
bu

s
We
Do

Nagy
nagóga t
czi ú
Rákó
Múze

ces Magyar
um k

om Nemzeti
Múzeum
örút

ÁLVIN
TÉR

rút
Rád

kö
a
y u.

Vásárcsarnok
Lóny
a
yu
.
Kö
zra
ktá
ru
.
04_697580-prechap01.qxp 2/5/09
4
15 Favorite Moments
The plush surroundings at the Opera
House.
Parliament on one side and the Cas-
tle District on the other. Great for
taking time out from the bustling
city and enjoying a bit of green
relief. See p 88.
7 Buda Palace. For a touch of
refined hedonism, I enjoy mingling
with the country’s leading wine
makers and drinking their fine wines
in the splendor of Buda’s Royal
Palace—the best way to enjoy the
castle. See p 61.
8 Basking in the central pool at
the Rudas Baths with the sunlight
beaming in through the cupola. See
p 27.
11:38 PM Page 4
9 Contemplating the pillars of
Communist society that once
imposed themselves across the
city but are now confined to the
Statue Park, part of the Memento
Park. I find the replica of Stalin’s
boots, left behind when his statue
was torn down at Felvonulási tér
(Hungary’s answer to Red Square),
particularly significant. See p 46.
0 Budapest’s Kert ‘Garden’
Bars. Feeling downright decadent—
and very glad to live in Hungary
after the winter is all but a
memory—at one of the city’s
Kert ‘Garden’ summer bars.
See p 121.
! Drinking bubbly on the bal-
cony of the Opera House during a
break after marveling at the plush
surroundings and wondering how
the main chandelier can possibly
stay up. See p 8.
@ The tranquility of dawn and
the power of the city’s fin-de-siè-
cle architecture from the terrace
of the Museum Káveház after a
long night out. There I love having
one last Unicum and some pastry as
the city starts to wake up.
# Sipping a beer while taking a
ferry down the Danube to rock till
I drop at the Sziget Festival, and
then hopping back on the ferry well
after sunrise. See p 161.
$ Exploring the old cobbled nar-
row streets of the Castle District
between Táncsics Mihály utca and
Tóth Árpád sétány that are off the
beaten track. See p 60.
% Feeling the buzz and ambi-
ence of the Jewish District, which
despite having seen a lot of adver-
sity is still hanging on as buildings
are bulldozed all around. See
p 54.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page 5

1 The Best
Full-Day Tours
 6
The Best Full-Day Tours

Rip
MARGIT HÍD Rad 1
1 Heroes Square

p
nót

l-R
Hősök tere

Mu
M i Mik

.
ón

nk
2 Millennium Underground Margit lós
HŐSÖK

á
a

erd
Margit Margit körút u.

cs
M Műcsarnok

iu
.

iná
híd Kat TERE

za u
tér

Ba
Opera House ona

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3

nd
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jza

k
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híd
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ly

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zsa

u.

Szi
Bem icz

yB

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Szt. n

ny
Gy

d rás ibáb

ei
Bem József tér Istv
St. Stephen’s Basilica ma BAJZA An él
05_697580-ch01.qxp

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u.
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anube)
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gyógyfürdő M

Vö
Chain Bridge

Falk M
7 Kodály

Budai alsó
Honvéd PÁLYAUDVAR TEREZVÁROS Kodály Zoltán

rös
Körönd or

Isa

Balassi B
tér

Pesti alsó
ma
8 The Castle District . KODÁLY

be
Emlémúzeum ti fas
u

rty
M

Duna (D
lla
LIPOTVAROS di KÖRÖND sl ig e

u.
n

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ro
2/5/09

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Baj

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tvö

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za

Országház y u. UTCA

Fazekas u.
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su
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u.

.
MOSZKVA

Gyorkocsi u.

Fiá

út
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u.
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th
re u.

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.
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11:38 PM

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The Best in One Day

au
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Mátyás
b

Tó Corvin
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r u.

Att
nos u.
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Já Bélyeg-
r u.

il
th templom an

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tér Ar Szt. István 4 M OPERA

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Page 6

PÁLYAUDVAR
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Ak zál u

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pályaudvar tér 7 u. ZSILINSZKY oll

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 05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:38 PM Page 7

The Best in One Day

H ere, I’m taking you on an action-packed tour that will
leave you in awe of Budapest’s architectural magnificence and
magnitude. Particularly noteworthy is the architecture of the late
19th and early 20th centuries, when Hungary had finally found
peace and prosperity. START: Take the M1 Millennium Underground to
Hósök tere.

1 ★★★ = Heroes Square Kossuth. Built in 1896 to celebrate a

(Hósök tere). There’s no better millennium of Magyar presence,
u. LUJZA TÉR

place to start getting your head nowadays Heroes Square is a popu-

around the turbulent history of Hun- lar place with skateboarders—obliv-
gary than Heroes Square. The key ious to the significance of their
ny

protagonists are strikingly intro- country’s heroes—and with right-

há
t
czi ú
Do

duced as a series of imposing stat- wingers who use it as a backdrop

Rákó

ues. The central column is guarded for rallies. @ 30 min. Hósök tere at
by the seven Magyar tribe leaders crossing of Andrássy út and Dózsa
. iu

zsinagóga
ény
Nagy

who, in 896AD, stormed into the György út. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.
ss e l

Carpathian basin, comprising pres-

We

Do
2 ★★ = Millennium Under-
ent-day Hungary and beyond. A
u.

ground. Take a ride on continental

ach

statue of Árpád leads these seven

mb

Europe’s oldest metro, which

út

Önkormányzat

heathen horsemen, and they appear

kör

opened in 1896 to coincide with the

Fővárosi
oly

to be kept in check by Archangel

Kár

BELVÁROS

1,000th anniversary of Magyar pres-

Gabriel, who presides over them
ence in Hungary. Get on at the
from the top of the central column.
TÉR

Hósök tere stop and be whisked, just

.
cu

The founding fathers are flanked by

en

under street level, directly down the

Fer

heroes including Szent (Saint)

ák

elegant Andrássy út (boulevard)—

De

István, who converted Hungary to

VÖRÖSMARTY
TÉR

r t which I recommend you walk down

kpa Christianity on Christmas Day in the
i alsó
ra on Day 2 (p 14, bullet 4). Get off at
Pest year 1000AD, and all-conquering
Oktogon to see one of Budapest’s
Kings Béla IV and Mátyás Corvinus,
several centers where Andrássy út
lot palota Magyar Nemzeti

as well as perennial thorns in Habs-

lánchíd

meets the Nagy körút (the Great

burg Austria’s side like Rákóczi and
Galéria

The central column in Heroes Square is guarded by seven Magyar tribe leaders.
t Budapesti
Történeti Múzeum
Budavári

t
aú

Pa
aú
ttil

A
t u. ú
Krisztina Alag
u.

tér

Alkotás u.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09
8
The Best Full-Day Tours
Take a ride on continental Europe’s oldest metro.
Boulevard), or stay on one more
stop to Opera. After London’s under-
ground system, this is the next old-
est in the world and the stations in
particular retain the fin-de-siècle
feel. @ 15 min. Entrance at end of
Andrássy út at crossing of Andrássy
út and Dózsa György út; on right-
hand side of Andrássy út if looking
from Heroes Square. First metro
4:36am, last 11:20pm. www.bkv.hu/
metro/metro1.html. Single journey
ticket Ft 270. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.
The Opera House.
11:39 PM Page 8
3 ★★★ Opera House. The Mik-
lós Ybl-designed Opera House pro-
vides the sumptuous veneer to
classy Andrássy út. If you can, I sug-
gest you look now but come back
and experience the Opera House in
all its glory by catching a perform-
ance. Be warned that the super-
steep cheap seats are not for
sufferers of vertigo. The neo-Renais-
sance style of the exterior is all
semi-circular arches and columns,
and is symmetrically topped off by
statues of idols of Hungarian opera,
while statues of the two Hungarian
musical greats, Liszt and Bartok,
flank the main entrance. Step inside
and the style changes dramatically
to neo-classical with the walls and
ceiling adorned by lavish works
from leading Hungarian artists of
the day, including Gyula Benczúr
and Bertalan Székely. Exclusive Hun-
garian participation was deemed
crucial in establishing the home of
Hungarian opera, although the
scary but magnificent-looking gold-
plated, three-tonne chandelier was
imported from Germany. @ 15 min,
45 min if you take the tour, but check
ahead as tours may be cancelled
due to rehearsals. Andrássy út 22.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09
y 153-0170 for tickets, 332-8197 for
tours. www.opera.hu. Ft 2,600 (dis-
count Ft 1,400). Tours at 3pm and
4pm daily, performances vary.
Metro: M1 to Opera.
4 ★★ Callas. This, the former
ticket office of the neighboring
Opera, which can be viewed
through the large arched windows,
has been superbly spruced up by
the noted British designer David
Collins in an engaging blend of fin-
de-siècle and Art Deco. While Callas
is a serious dining venue with a
decent sushi bar, it also does great
Hungarian and international break-
fasts, homemade pastries and
cakes, as well as sandwiches.
Andrássy út 20. y 1/354-0954. $$.
5 ★★★ St. Stephen’s Basilica.
Building this Budapest landmark
proved a job too far for defining Hun-
garian architects József Hild and Mik-
lós Ybl, who both died during the
prolonged 54-year construction. The
project literally hit rock bottom when
the dome collapsed in 1868, a year
St. Stephen’s Basilica.
11:39 PM Page 9
The Best in One Day
after Hild’s death. Architect József
Kauser was called in and dragged
Budapest’s biggest church over the
finishing line in 1905. A massive
restoration project was completed in
2003 and the gleaming marble is the
result of the application of 200kg of
beeswax. Mathematically minded
Hungarians love dealing in numbers
and, like the Parliament’s dome, Szent
István’s stands 96m/315ft high, as a
tribute to the Magyar settlement of
Hungary in 896. Had they arrived a
few years earlier, perhaps the roof
wouldn’t have fallen in! The almost
1,000-year-old withered hand of St.
Stephen, Hungary’s first King, is dis-
played in the Szent Jobb Chapel.
Another great Hungarian hero Ferenc
Puskás, the talisman of the Magical
Magyars and Real Madrid goal
machine, was laid to rest here in
2006. An elevator is on hand to whisk
you up to near the top for sweeping
views of Buda and Pest. @ 1 hr.
Szent István tér 33. y 1/317-2859.
www.basilica.hu. Free Admission to
Basilica, tower Ft 500, Treasury Ft
400. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun
10am–4pm. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-
Zsilinszky út. M3 to Arany János utca.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 10

10
The Best Full-Day Tours

The dome in architect Imre Steindl’s Paliament.

6 ★★★ Parliament. Architect
Imre Steindl’s mostly neo-Gothic
extravaganza dominates Pest’s
waterfront and bucks the Gothic
trend with the 96m/315ft-high dome
at its center. While it was once the
biggest Parliament in the world
when it opened for business in 1896,
the building has lost none of its opu-
lence. The exceedingly long corri-
dors of power, the grandiose
gold-plated interior and red-carpeted
staircases do nothing to instill any
form of collective unity between the
polarized politicians. While much like
any Parliament, should you happen
to enter the chamber after a debate,
to which the opposition actually
shows up, you can almost feel the
steam rising as you enter. Look out
for the Hungarian crown, a gift from
the Pope to King (now Saint) István
(Stephen) in the year 1000 to thank
him for signing up Hungary to
Catholicism. Watch out for protes-
tors outside calling for the current
Prime Minister’s head. @ 1 hr for
tour, 15 min viewing from outside,
enquire ahead via internet as Parlia-
ment is closed when in session &
turn up 10 min before the tour
begins. Kossuth tér 1–3. y 1/
441-4000. www.mkogy.hu. Tour free
for EU citizens, other nationalities Ft
2,640 (students Ft 1,320). Buy tickets
at gate X. English tours at 10am,

Off the Beaten Track

While Budapest is blessed with many outstanding sights, I
encourage you to step off the beaten path as and when the mood
takes you. Budapest is visually impressive in every direction both devi-
ating from and all along the main route of this particular tour, which fea-
tures the not-to-be-missed element of the Hungarian capital. The
magic of Budapest can also be found in tiny details such as the gar-
goyles or decorative motifs that adorn the plethora of striking late
18th- and early 20th-century buildings and hidden squares. I have writ-
ten this guide with that in mind but I suggest you always take a little
time to look up and around as you piece together the Budapest jigsaw.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 11

11

The Best in One Day

12am, and 2pm daily. Metro: M2 to
Kossuth Lajos tér.
7 ★★★ = Chain Bridge.
This, the pick of Budapest’s varied
bridges, isn’t just an architectural
marvel but is the first permanent
bridge that linked Buda with Pest,
setting in motion their eventual uni-
fication. It’s also still the best and
most scenic way of traversing the
Danube to get from Parliament and
Pest’s old town to the Castle Dis-
trict. The brainchild of István
Funicular in the Castle District.
Széchenyi, an anglophile Hungarian
Count who sought to bring rural
Hungary into the modern age, he both lit up dramatically. @ 20 min.
employed two designers to build Connects Roosevelt tér with Clark
the ornate bridge, each with the Adám tér. Bus 16/105 or Tram 2.
name of Clark: William, an English- 8 ★★★ The Castle District.
man, and Adam, a Scot. The Chain Bombed, burnt, battered, and
Bridge opened in 1849, during rebuilt many times throughout the
Hungary’s War of Independence with centuries, the Royal Palace and St.
Austria and fortunately survived an Matthias Church dramatically por-
immediate botched attempt to blow tray Hungary’s trials and tribula-
it up, something that the more effi- tions. I suggest you wander the
cient Germans managed when district at your leisure to soak up
retreating from occupying the city the history of the place and return
in 1945. It was soon rebuilt and later for a more in-depth tour. (See
reopened on its centenary in the p 60 for a complete tour of this his-
original style. Come back at night torically rich district.) @ 2 hr. Bus 16
when it and the Royal Palace are to Dísz tér.

The Chain Bridge.

05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 12

12
The Best Full-Day Tours
The Best in Two Days
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 05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 13

13

The Best in Two Days

A fter a hard day of major sightseeing on Day 1, take the
plunge and relax in one of Budapest’s world-renowned thermal
baths, while still admiring its architectural beauty, then get out and
échenyi
rdő about again to uncover some of the unique buildings that reflect the
y
án country’s varied and troubled past. START: Take the M1 or ‘Millennium
Underground’ to Széchenyi Fürdó.
rosliget

1 ★★★ = Széchenyi Fürdó

Petőfi
Csarnok
Baths. The therapeutic waters of
this neo-Baroque bathing bonanza
will revitalize tired joints and set you
up for a fulfilling day. That’s provid-
ing you don’t spend all your time
being slow cooked in the hot pools,
which will leave you seriously sleepy.
Alternate between hot and cold
pools, saunas, and steam rooms and
út

take some time out in the medium-

temperature pools or just chill out
TVÁROS on a deckchair. The most luxurious
pool is the outdoor semi-circular
Cse

one, from which steam dramatically

rhá
Mu

tu
rán

rises in the cold of winter as locals

.
yi u
du

play chess. The whirly pool is great

.

u. for kids. @ 2 hr. Come early to avoid

ay t
ly ú the crowds, especially in summer.
öko
Th Állatkerti körút 11. y 1/363-3210. Ft
Keleti 2,400 with locker, Ft 2,800 with cabin
yaudvar
Vajdahunyad Castle.
(partial refunds for finishing within
Kerepesi út
2 hr, 3 hr). 6am–10pm daily. Metro:
Take a dip in the therapeutic Széchenyi
M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó.
Fürdó Baths.
2 ★ = Vajdahunyad Castle.
Looking at it now, it’s hard to believe
that this fairly authentic-looking folly
t

was once made out of cardboard

and dates back barely a century.
Vajdahunyad Castle went up as a
temporary structure as part of the
Magyar millennium celebrations in
1896, depicting the various Hungar-
ian architectural styles over the cen-
turies. By 1908, Vajdahunyad had
been transformed into a collection of
stone replicas representing treas-
ured creations from right across the
Magyar realm. Particularly prominent
are the ramparts facing the lake from
Vajdahunyad Castle and Sighi@oara’s
clocktower, both in present-day
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM
14
The Best Full-Day Tours
Romania. @ 30 min. Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere/Széchenyi Fürdó.
3 ★★ Fine Arts Museum
(Szépmüvészeti Múzeum). The
mighty Habsburgs who once ruled
as far as Spain and the Netherlands
acquired an astonishing collection of
impressive art works, many of which
found their way here. A tour de force
in European art from the 13th to
the late 18th centuries, lovers of
Madrid’s Prado gallery will see simi-
larities with this collection, which is
also particularly strong in Spanish
masters, with El Greco, Velázquez,
Murillo, Ribera, Cano, Zurbarán and
Goya all represented. El Greco’s
Annunciation, painted in the late 16th
century, is set to heavenly clouds and
bright lights (it has a twin in the Prado
set to an architectural background),
while Velázquez’s early work Peas-
ants Around a Table, dated around
1619, magically preserves the time-
honored tradition of getting stuck
into conversation over a few drinks.
@ 1 ⁄ –2 hr. Come early when major
1
2 munists both favored this location on
temporary exhibitions are running.
Dózsa György út 41. Overlooking
Heroes Square. y 1/469-7100.
www.szepmuveszeti.hu. Ft 1,200.
Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Metro: M1
Hósök tere.
The cutting edge museum at Terror House.
Page 14
4 Walk up Andrássy út. You
are more than likely to have explored
portions of this, the grandest of
Budapest’s boulevards on Day 1
when checking out the Opera House,
but further examination is rewarding.
Walking from Heroes Square (p 7,
bullet 1) the first stretch is lined
with luxurious villas, including Kogart,
an arts center and restaurant. Fur-
ther up, Andrássy út is traversed by
Kodály körönd, a striking square of
faded but ornately painted town
houses. @ 30 min.
5 Lukács Cukrázda. Grab a cof-
fee and a cake or snack at this taste-
fully restored coffee house that
excels in freshly made cakes and
pastries and is more laid back than
most, being away from the madding
crowd at Andrássy út 70. $.
6 ★★★ Terror House. It’s funny
how both the Fascists and the Com-
classy Andrássy út to do their worst.
An address that seems to be cursed,
this visually impressive museum
caused controversy with its highly
politicized opening in 2002. Seen by
many as an affront to the re-spun
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09
The Great Synagogue.
Hungarian Socialist Party, which
once ruled Hungary with an iron fist
but has changed beyond recogni-
tion, on behalf of their archrivals
Fidesz, it was even sponsored by the
then Fidesz Prime Minister Victor
Orbán. Cynics’ claims are backed up
by the fleeting coverage of Fascist
Hungary and the much denser cov-
erage of the red terror. However, the
fascist Hungarian Arrow Cross Party
ran the country for only a year, com-
ing into power in 1944, but what a
gruesome year that was, with the
previously protected Jewish popula-
tion being shipped off in droves to
concentration camps. Politics aside,
from the Russian tank that greets
you; to the pictures of victims and
their jailors; the industrial and dark
classical soundtrack; film footage
and interviews; genuine exhibits
including Hungarian Nazi Arrow
Cross uniforms; and the trip to the
cells and gallows, I can’t help but
feel indignation. @ 1 hr. Andrássy út
60. y 1/374-2600. www.houseof
terror.hu. Ft 1,500. Tues–Fri 10am–
6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Metro:
M1 to Vörösmarty utca.
7 ★★ Great Synagogue. With
its onion domes, Moorish and Byzan-
tine influences, Budapest’s great
11:39 PM Page 15
15
The Best in Two Days
synagogue not only pioneered a
new style of Jewish architecture, it
also spawned the father of modern
Zionism who was born here, Tivadar
Herzl (p 55, bullet 1). @ 15 min.
Dohány utca 2. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
8 ★★★ = Applied Arts
Museum. You might have encoun-
tered this remarkable-looking Art
Nouveau masterpiece by Ödön Lech-
ner, Budapest’s answer to Gaudí, if
you took the road in from the air-
port. Lechner, who also worked on
the building’s plans with secessionist
sidekick Gyula Pártos, created a Hun-
garian take on the Art Nouveau
movement, adding Hungarian folk
touches and emphasizing certain
eastern influences on Hungary.
Accordingly, traces of architectural
styles from as far afield as India can
be detected, and the bright green
and gold Zsolnay tiles that adorn the
roof and dome are more Oriental
than European. For a tour of the inte-
rior go to the dedicated Special
Interest Art Nouveau Tour (see p 25,
bullet @). @ 1–11⁄2 hr. Üllói út
33–37. y 1/456-5100. www.imm.hu.
Combined ticket, including temporary
exhibitions, Ft 2,400. Tues–Sun 10am–
6pm. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút.
The impressive entrance to the Applied
Arts Museum.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 16

16
The Best Full-Day Tours
The Best in Three Days
Széchenyi Ho
lánchíd
József Attila
u. u. lló
ály u.
Eötvös Kir
tér József Erzsébet
nádor tér tér Ru
DEÁK mb

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7 Gellért Baths 0 u. 0.25 km
 05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 17

17

The Best in Three Days

A fter a lot of pacing the streets in Days 1 and 2, here we
start with a coffee at one of Budapest’s most luxurious coffee
houses, followed by a spot of shopping, taking in everything from
Ho
u. ll óu designer boutiques, folk art shops, and food markets. This tour also
.
gives you the option of ending the day with a swim and a thermal
um
ba bathe to soothe the joints after scaling the dizzy heights of Gellért
ch
u. Hill. START: M1 to Vörösmarty tér or Tram 2 to Vigadó tér and walk for
two minutes in the opposite direction of the river.
.
bu
Do

Nagy
zsinagóga international cities. Keep an eye out
1 ★ Café Gerbaud. Try morning
on the side streets for high-end
coffee and cake at one of the plush-
designers. Souvenir shops also
ÁROS est of the city’s illustrious coffee
abound, though with steep price
ASTORIA houses. Your biggest decision here
tags, but if you are into embroi-
Lajo
s u. will be to work out where to sit to
dered tablecloths and folk art, then
take it all in. This is not the place I
you have come to the right place
s would choose to start the day every
Mag

m (see p 77). The shopping street con-

day—the ornate interior can be a
yar u

tinues on the other side of Szabad-

mi bit over the top—but I find it taste-
.

ár Petőfi
sajtó út, where the vibe is less
ful enough in small doses to be an
Irodalmi frenetic. @ 1 hr. Walk through the
Múzeum ideal treat. Coffee culture is about
underpass that connects the two
not only reading papers and devour-
sides of Váci utca. From Vörösmarty
ing Gerbaud’s renowned Esterházy
tér to Vámház körút. Metro: M1 to
Kirá

and Dobos cakes, but legend has it

u.

Vörösmarty tér (starting point).

erb

lyi P

that young men indicated their

Sz

ál u.

availability to well-heeled ladies of 3 ★★ Great Market Hall. You

u. pleasure by tipping an excessive may feel like you’re walking through
tya
Bás an Impressionist painting when the
amount of sugar into their coffee.
. sunlight shines into this beautifully
óu In summer, if the wealth of chande-
rút
kö liers, marble tables, fine wood pan- restored king of neighborhood
áz
mh
Vá eling, and stucco ceilings gets a
bit much, take to the terrace and sit Café Gerbaud.
Vásárcsarnok out on Vörösmarty tér. @ 45 min.
Vörösmarty tér 7. y 1/429-9020.
Csarnok 9am–9pm. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty
só

tér
rak

tér.
pa
rt

2 ★★ = Váci utca. Even

those who are not shopaholics can
easily take in this relatively short
shopping street and surrounding
area. Starting from Vörösmarty tér,
which often has something going on
and hosts a Christmas market, you’ll
find most big international fashion
brands from Zara and Mango to
Jackpot and H&M. However, most of
them offer a somewhat modest
selection in comparison to other
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09
18
The Best Full-Day Tours
Tinned paprika displayed in the Great
Market Hall.
markets. However, it’s far from a
museum piece; many locals come
here to shop for fresh food and it’s
bustling with life and color. The
array of meat on sale shows just
how thrifty Hungarians are, as they
consider every part of the animal
fair game for the pot. The carp and
The Gellért Hotel.
11:39 PM Page 18
catfish crammed in tanks on fish
‘death row’ downstairs are an
uncomfortable sight for some, but
hey, at least they’re fresh. There are
plenty of foodstuffs like paprika,
salami, and goose liver to take
home, and upstairs look out for folk-
lore and handicrafts hidden among
the mountains of tourist goods.
There are plenty of nibbles to be
eaten upstairs. @ 30 min–1 hr.
Vámház körút 1–3. y 1/366-3300.
Mon 6am–5pm, Tues–Fri 6am–6pm,
Sat 6am–3pm. Metro: M3 to Kálvin
tér. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fövám tér.
4 Walk across Szabadság
Bridge. Buda and Pest are
seamlessly connected by this bright
green piece of intricate ironwork
that joins the Pest’s Great Market
Hall and its neighbor the Budapest
University of Economics (formerly
the Karl Marx University) with the
Gellért Hotel and the dramatic Gel-
lért Hill of Buda. It was opened by
Emperor Franz Joseph in 1896, who
actually knocked the last rivet into
it. @ 10 min. Starts where Pest’s
Vámház körút meets the Danube.
Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin tér.
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 19

19
5 ★★★ = Gellért Hill. This

The Best in Three Days

Szent Gellért was reportedly rolled
imposing hill that towers over the down the hill in 1046 to his death by
Pest waterfront of the Danube has revolting pagans. The Austrians then
been used to good effect to suppress built a Citadel from which to lord it
forces for change. Italian missionary over the Magyars (see p 19).

Gellért Hill Semmelweis

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szt ila ú
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rv a

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To find the Gellért Statue K walk Hungarian Revolution of 1848, built,

upstream towards the Erzsebet replete with cannons galore, atop
Bridge where you will see the steps the hill pointing at the Hungarians
leading up. Gellért, who participated below. There wasn’t much use for it
in spreading the gospel in 11th- after they patched up their differ-
century Hungary on King Stephen’s ences in 1867, although German
request, met his end being tumbled occupying forces utilized it in World
down the hill (that was subsequently War II. The three-level bunker inside
named after him) in a barrel filled the Citadel has waxworks and photos
with nails—possibly in one of those chronicling the Siege of Budapest.
bum deals whereby your faith sup- Close by and at the peak of the hill,
posedly will save you. Ultimately, Budapest’s very own statue of lib-
Christianity won through with Gellért erty, the Freedom Statue M, ironi-
canonized in 1083. The Gellért Statue cally went up in 1947 as a tribute to
captures the saint preaching defi- the Soviet forces that liberated the
antly but precariously on the edge of city from the Nazis. Featuring a
the hill. It dates back to 1904 and is woman proffering the palm branch of
the work of Hungarian sculptor Gyula triumph and not overtly Soviet-look-
Jankovits (1865–1920). Follow the ing, it survived the cull of Communist
path up and you reach the Citadel L statues from the capital. @ 1–2 hr.
that the Austrians, smarting from the
05_697580-ch01.qxp 2/5/09
20
The Best Full-Day Tours
Relax in style at the Gellért thermal baths.
6 Cave Church. On the way
down, just before reaching the Gel-
lért Hotel and Baths, check out this
spooky church whose eerie pas-
sages dig deep into the hill. Don’t
be alarmed if a priest appears from
nowhere! @ 15 min.
7 ★★★ Gellért Baths. After
another hard day of pounding the
streets, the Art Nouveau architecture
of the Gellért thermal baths allows
you to relax in style but also to see
something special. Inside, the central
pool is surrounded by Romanesque
columns and lions spitting out water,
and just for a moment you might
expect Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra to
dive in alongside you. At the end of
the pool, the male and female ther-
mal facilities are to the right and
left respectively. This is where
things start to get really colorful
and heated, and I’m not just talking
11:39 PM Page 20
about the design or decoration, nor
the saunas and steam rooms. You
can keep your bathing costume on,
though many locals like to let it all
hang out and dispense with their
modesty cloths, although the author-
ities are said to be cracking down on
that sort of thing. The plunge pool is
so icy you feel the chill right through
your bones, but the thaw of the
warm pools is always close at hand.
While the waters are supposed to
sort out arthritis, blood circulation,
and the spine, I say just enjoy
them and come out feeling squeaky
clean and purified. In summer, be
sure to check out the outdoor pools
and garden, which is a bit more
suited to kids who can enjoy the arti-
ficial waves in the main outdoor pool.
@ 2 hr. Kelenhegyi út 4. y 466-
6166. Ft 3,100. 6am–7pm. Tram:
47/49/18/19 to Szent Gellért tér.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 21

2 The Best Special-

Interest Tours
 22
The Best Special-Interest Tours
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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 23

23

The Best Art Nouveau

B udapest is blessed with many buildings constructed using
a unique take on the Art Nouveau movement. Known as
szecesszió, it has its own figurehead in Ödön Lechner (1845–1914),
Hungary’s equivalent to Gaudí. Much of this tour can be managed on
y út

foot, which is a great way to see lesser known but still impressive
parts of the city you might not normally encounter. START: M2 to
Stadionoak.

1 = ★★ Geological Insti- elaborate entrance, which features

tute (Földtani Intézet). Ödön towers, sculptured elephants, and
Lechner incorporates geological ele- gruesome gorillas. Like Balás Villa,
Kerepesi út
pályaudvar

ments such as fossils into his usual the Zoo is next to City Park and you
Keleti

folk influences in the eye-catching can see plenty from the outside.
purple and yellow façade. Should @ 15 min. Állatkerti körút 6. Metro:
you arrive on a non-visitation day, a M1 to Széchenyi fürdó.
Baross

PÁLYAUDVAR
tér

look at the entrance hallway will

5 ★ Kölcsey Ferenc Gimnáz-
KELETI

give you an idea of the expressive

ium. After seeing such an ornate
interior. There’s a small Lechner
y u plébániatemplom

zoo, I totally envy Budapest’s kids.

Szt. Erzsébet-

exhibition between floors. @ 30

Just a few minutes’ walk away, find
t

min. Stefánia út 14. y 1/251-0999.

czi ú

the kind of epic and ornate school

www.mafi.hu. Ft 250. 10am–4pm
Rákó

I’d love to have gone to. However,

. Thurs, Sat & Sun. Metro: M2 to
au I’m reliably informed by a Hungarian
rsf
.

Há u. Stadionoak.
án

zát friend who attended it that it didn’t

h

Os
Do

2 Zala Villa. A short walk from look like this until it was renovated
út the Geological Institute, this castle- after we both left school in the late
kör
et like structure, noteworthy for the 1980s. @ 15 min. Munkácsy Mihály
elaborate sculptured motifs of utca 26. www.kolcsey-bp.hu.
u.
.
iu

a
ácf human figures that drape over the
y
lén

Ak
sse
Klauzál

wavy arched window, now houses The elaborate entrance to the Zoo.
tér

We

.
the Libyan Embassy and can be eas-
Do
bu ily viewed from the street. @ 10
Új Színház

min. Stefánia út 111 (corner of Ajtósi

Dürer sor).
ZSILINSZKY ÚT

3 ★★ Balás Villa. You may have

FERENC TÉR
BAJCSY

heard of buildings resembling elabo-

An

DEÁK

rate wedding cakes before, but this

Ödön Lechner-designed building,
Erzsébet
István

u.

with its various tones of brown, is

tér

tér
József Attila

er 6. u. more of a chocolate cake—and

Zrínyi u.

thanks to its angles, a Gothic one at

that. It looks out onto the City Park,
houses the Braille Institute, and
Roosevelt
Széchenyi tér

is a short walk from the Zala Villa.

@ 10 min. Hermina út 47.
lánchíd

4 ★ Zoo (Állatkert). Hungarian

Art Nouveau often draws on Indian
and Oriental elements. Examples
Fő út of this can be seen at the Zoo’s
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM
24
6 ★★ Dob utca School. I’d
The Best Special-Interest Tours
have no trouble sending my kids to
this school. I like the clever and sub-
tle use of brown and blue paintwork
that keeps the building subdued
enough to be used as a seat of edu-
cation but still complements the
building’s wavy and wobbly Art Nou-
veau aspect. The school’s coat of
arms, murals of kids playing hide
and seek, and marching soldiers
provide the perfect finish. Dob utca
85. www.dobsuli.hu. Tram: 4/6 to
Király utca.
7 Ferenc Liszt Music Acad-
emy. The parallels with Barcelona
and modernismo don’t end with
Gaudí and Lechner. Aside from the
muscular sculptures holding up a
seated statue of the man himself,
and some handy ironwork, much
like Barcelona’s famed Palau de la
Musica, the real beauty of the Fer-
enc Liszt Music Academy lies on the
inside in its awesome auditorium,
which doesn’t just look but sounds
good too. I suggest you get along to
one of the Academy’s great value
concerts (see Arts & Entertainment
p 132) or peek inside during term
time. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. www.lfze.hu.
Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
8 ★ Új Szinhaz. Béla Lajta’s
compact and somewhat understated
The Art Nouveau Bedó Ház.
Page 24
‘New Theater’ building both fits in
and stands out on this narrow side
street that runs adjacent to majestic
Andrássy. Opened as the Parisiana
nightclub in 1909, its charm lies in
the domineering sculptured mon-
keys and the gold and blue organ
pipe-like trimmings at the top.
Paulay Ede utca 35. Metro: M1 to
Opera.
9 ★★★ National Savings
Treasury. Tucked away off the
main drag, the front façade is an
engaging restrained mix of wavy
lines, light colors, Hungarian folk
motifs, and Islamic pillars, if such a
funky combo can be restrained. Nat-
urally, the bees making honey
means money in Lechner-speak.
However, the real drama comes with
the roof, whereby Lechner deployed
the wares of iconic Hungarian
ceramics’ manufacturer Zsolnay to a
more daring end than usual. Here
the gentle curves of the façade give
way to more stark angles in an eye-
catching yellow and green-layered
finish. Opened in 1886 as the Royal
Hungarian Postal Savings Bank, it
now serves as the National Savings
Treasury. Although it is closed to the
public, you can step in the door for
a peek of the interior. @ 15 min.
Hold utca 4. Metro: M3 to Arany
János utca.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
The Museum of Applied Arts.
0 ★★ Bedó Ház. The Art Nou-
veau Bedó Ház takes the interactive
museum concept a step further.
Although the objets d’art are inani-
mate—Art Nouveau furniture, beds,
love chairs, and the like—you can
actually sit on or stretch out on
them should you desire. The
museum stops short of letting you
take the exhibits home, but have a
word with them and they’ll put you
in touch with a carpenter who pro-
duces replicas. The downstairs café
is a good alternative to the pricey
Gresham (see p 104). Honvéd utca 3.
y 1/269-4622. www.magyar
szecessziohaza.hu. Ft 600. Mon–Sat
10am–5pm. Metro: M2 to Kossuth
Lajos tér.
! Gresham Kávéház. This suave
coffee house-cum-bistro is housed
on the ground floor of the stun-
ningly restored Art Nouveau Four
Seasons Gresham Palace hotel (see
hotels p 142) and does a noted
deluxe burger from sirloin, exquisite
sandwiches, and salads. Roosevelt
tér 5–6. y 1/268-5100. $$$.
11:39 PM Page 25
25
The Best Art Nouveau
@ = Museum of Applied
Arts. I’ve already introduced you to
the exterior of this museum in the
Best in Two Days tour (see p 15,
bullet 8). As you walk through the
ornate entrance, sadly the color
gives way to a whitewashed interior.
In 1920, the wishes of conservative
critics were met and the daring
design of the interior was painted
over. This shouldn’t discourage you
from entering as, fortunately, they
couldn’t destroy the essence of the
place. The twisty curling shapes,
wobbly staircases, and the immense
conservatory remain true to their
original design. Among the perma-
nent Art Nouveau exhibits look out
for the Frigyes Spiegel-designed Art
Nouveau Tall Case Clock and lots of
groovy defining furniture.
# ★★★ Gellért Baths. While
much of the Gellért Hotel was
bombed to rubble in World War II,
the side that houses the baths
escaped the worst and remains
close to its original Art Nouveau
splendor (see p 20, bullet 7 and
p 27, bullet 1).
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 26

26
The Best Special-Interest Tours
The Best Baths
Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti 6 0 1/4 mi
7
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stol u

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ás u

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y u.
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réz i u
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7 Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda gyógyfürdő 1
 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:39 PM Page 27

27

The Best Baths

B udapest’s thermal baths and lidos have both helped me
through many an icy winter and cooled me down in the heat of
summer. Each has its own character, while the thermal water itself is
prescribed for treating joint problems and arthritis, among other
conditions. For a full list of the medical benefits according to each
specific water source, go to www.spasbudapest.com. START: Tram:
út

ó u.
Váci

18/19/47/49. Bus: 7 to Gellért tér.

u.
LEHEL
TÉR
y u.
Lehel
tér 1 = ★★★ Gellért Gyó- but be warned it gets really busy on
gyfürdó és Uszoda. Although hot summer days. Go early like the
Fe

Hungarians do, or consider taking

rd íd

not the best place to come for a

iná
h
nd

Westend good swim, the Gellért offers out- an evening dip. It’s at its best in win-
út

ter with snow on the ground and

i

City Center standing single-sex thermal bathing,

Vác

with the men’s side the most lavish. you’re all snug and warm in the out-
Nyugati
yu
.
The cold plunge pool is so icy that door thermal pool (p 13, bullet 1).
ályaudvar iczk
m an you can feel your own bones, while Állatkerti körút 11. y 1/363-3210.
d
Po the faded grandeur makes the gar- www.szechenyibath.com. Admission
.
iu
nd den a top place to take it seriously Ft 2,400 (Ft 2,000 if you leave within
Szo
easy in the warmer months (p 20, 2 hr). Daily 6am–10pm. Some pools
Te Jóka
réz i u

bullet 7). Kelenhegyi út 4. y 1/ and services are only available till

kö .
rú
t

466-6166. www.gellertbath.com. 4pm & 6pm & are closed on Sat–Sun.

Admission Ft 2,800 to Ft 3,100 (with Metro: M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó.
ym

Jókai
cabin rental), Ft 400 refund if you
ez

tér 3 ★★★ Rudas Gyógyfürdó és

őu
.

leave within 2 hr. 6am–7pm week-

Uszoda. Plunge into the turquoise
.

.
peraház eu days; 6am–5pm Sat–Sun (Apr 30–
water, which is given an extra depth
Ed
OPERA Sept 30). Tram: 18/19/47/49. Bus: 7
of beauty by the beams of light that
út ulay u. to Gellért tér.
Pa ály
penetrate through the holes in the
Kir
2 = ★★★ Széchenyi Gyó- domed ceiling. Surrounded by stone
gyfürdó és Uszoda. A magnifi- pillars, you can splash back in time.
ZKY ÚT
cent neo-Baroque bathing complex, Relax in the main central pool and
um
.

then dip in and out of the corner

bu

ba
ch
Do

u. Neo-baroque bathing at Széchenyi. pools of varying temperatures.

örú Nagy There’s a really cold plunge pool
t zsinagóga
t around the corner on the way to the
OS ASTORIA changing rooms. A welcome feature
of the Rudas is the ward-like lying
down room and I heartily recom-
Múze

rences
mplom mend a snooze after the extremes
um k

almi your body’s just been through. Skip

örút

eum
it and you might need an early
KÁLVIN night. The main bathing chamber
TÉR
features a large central pool and it is
áln

Kálvin
é

tér
rút
u.

kö
also open to women. Döbrentei tér
á z
mh 9. y 1/356-1322. Swimming pool
Vá
m 6am–6pm. Steam 6am–8pm. Steam
Vásárcsarnok
Csarnok for men Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri; for
tér women Tues; for both sexes in swim-
ming suits Sat, Sun. Ft 2,200 for the
steam (Ft 400 refund if you leave
within 2 hr), Ft 1,200 (locker), Ft
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM
28
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Beams of light penetrate through the
ceiling at Rudas Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda.
1,500 (cabin), Ft 1,000 (kids & pen-
sioners) for the swimming pool.
Tram: 18/19 to Döbrentei tér. Bus:
5/7/8/86.
4 ★★ Király Gyógyfürdó.
Under Socialism, the Turkish domed
‘King’ was a tolerated meeting point
for gay men, including certain mem-
bers of the ruling élite. This carried
Lukács Gyógyfürdö.
Page 28
on post-1989 and I’ve heard this
place referred to as ‘The Queen’. It
was so steamy in here that appar-
ently most Budapest heterosexuals
have been once, but now, or so I’m
told, overtly sexual behavior is no
longer tolerated. Smaller than the
Rudas, it also takes you back a long
way in time. Fó utca 84. y 1/202-
368. Women Mon, Wed, Fri 7am–6pm.
Men 7am–6pm. Men Tues, Thurs, Sat
9am–8pm. Ft 2,300 for over 3 hr;
Ft 1,300 within 2 hr. Metro: M2 to
Batthyány tér.
5 ★ Lukács Gyógyfürdó. You
see many regulars here where it’s
less touristy and has a mixed
bathing option. I like to do a few
lengths of one of the rather shortish
open-air swimming pools before
rewarding myself with the wonders
of the interior. You can normally get
a lane in the shorter of the two but
it is cold, while in the longer pool
you’ll be competing for space with
the leisurely swimmers. There’s also
a thermal pool with a fun whirlpool
for tobogganing with your body. As
the whirlpool switches off, people
head for the water massage. I love
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
Enjoy the holiday camp atmosphere at Palatinus Strandfürdó.
lying back, relaxing, as the water
surges up to the blurry sound of
people’s voices. In summer, climb
the stairs to the spacious sun ter-
race that looks out onto leafy Buda.
Bikini tops come off here regardless
of age, but is by no means obliga-
tory. Inside, the large pool is for tak-
ing it easy. Don’t stay too long in the
hot pool, tempting as it is, beauti-
fully tucked into its own chamber.
Brave the steam room, plop straight
into the cold plunge pool immedi-
ately next to it, and feel purged of
all impurities momentarily. It’s nice
to sit on a bench in the garden and
let your pulse return to normal after-
wards. Frankel Leó utca 25–29.
y 1/326-1695. Mon–Fri, Sun 6am–
7pm; Sat 6am–5pm. Ft 1,900/1,700
for over 3 hr with cabin/locker;
Ft 1,500/1,300 for within 2 hr with
cabin/locker. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd
Budai hídfó/18 to Lukács Gyógyfürdó.
6 = ★★★ Palatinus Strand-
fürdó. Located on Margaret Island,
Palatinus Strandfürdó has a holiday
camp atmosphere that you can
check into every day in summer.
There’s a wide range of pools of
varying temperatures and a long
11:40 PM Page 29
29
The Best Baths
one for proper swimming, plenty
of grass to camp out on, and loads
of food stalls and bars. There’s
even fruit stands. Margit Sziget.
y 1/340-4505. Go early on very hot
days, at weekends, or in school holi-
days. Daily 9am–7pm May 1–Aug 31.
Ft 2,200 with cabin, Ft 1,800 with
locker for all day on weekdays; Ft
2,400 with cabin, Ft 2,000 with
locker for all day at weekends.
Cheaper tickets available for shorter
times. Bus: 26 to Palatinus strand.
7 ★ Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti
Sportuszoda. Good for a proper
swim with its Olympic-sized pool
and several others, but also an
excellent place to catch some rays.
It held the European Swimming
Championships in 2006 and has
been extended accordingly. The
outdoor pools are warm enough for
swimming in winter but you can also
swim inside. The big pool is some-
times devoted to training but you
can usually find somewhere to
swim. Margit Sziget. y 1/340-4946.
Mon–Fri 6am–5pm, Sat–Sun 6am–
6pm May–Sep. Mon–Fri 6am–4pm,
Sat–Sun 6am–6pm Oct–Apr. Bus: 26
to Hajós Alfréd uszoda.
 30
The Best Special-Interest Tours
t

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Page 30

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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 31

31

Turkish Traces
S o often associated with ruling with an iron fist during their
140-year occupation, we start our tour on a street named after
Gül Baba, a Turkish fighter, preacher, poet, and influential consort of
f u.

Suleiman the Magnificent. He even introduced the rose to ‘Budin’

Józse
Rákóczi

before falling in the successful invasion of the Castle in 1541. Most of

tér

körút these attractions are located within close proximity to each other.
Gutenburg

START: Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd, Budai hídfó.

tér

Mária u.
Magyar Nemzeti

1 ★★ Gül Baba utca. I find this

u.

with introducing the rose to Buda

r
ándo

a remarkable oasis of tranquility and the plush surrounding neigh-

Múzeum

yi u.
S

borhood is known as Rózsadomb,

Bródy

even though it’s so close to Margit

n u. körút, the noisy Buda thoroughfare. literally ‘Rose Hill’. @ 1⁄2 hr. Mecset
Petőfi Irodalmi

This steep and narrow cobbled utca 14/Türbe tér 1. y 1/326-0062.

ELTE

t
körú Ottomanesque street could be Ft 500. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Bus:
Múzeum

ze u m straight out of a hilly Istanbul neigh- 91/191 to Apostol utca. Tram: 4/6 to
borhood. The preserved wooden Margit híd, Budai hídfó.
bay window at number 30
(unmarked) is directly opposite a
3= Három Testvér. The
Ady Endre
Emlékhaz

very modern but tasteful take on

‘Three Brothers’ is a chain of fast
TERE

wooden paneling opposite at num-

út

food Turkish joints dotted around

tó

ber 23. @ 15 min. Tram: 4/6 to Mar-

Saj

the city, and this branch fits nicely in

bad

git híd, Budai hídfó.

with the bustle of the food market
Sza
Belvárosi
plébániatemplom

2★ = Gül Baba tomb. Hardly above. It has cushions to stretch out

Erzsébet

among the most frequented of sights on and carpets to add to the color.
híd
d

these days, this was once the center Ground floor of Fény utca piac.
of Islamic life in Buda. Gül Baba’s Lövóház utca 12. y 1/345-4125. $.
t
par pristinely restored mausoleum, which
rak
lsó
ai a you can enter to take a peek at the
Bud út 4 ★ Walk up Ostrom utca
tila
At colorfully decorated tomb and sur-
(Siege Street). Now suitably refu-
út Tabáni
plébániatemplom

rounding grounds, is a rare survivor

Rác
gyógyfürdő

eled, I recommend conquering the

from a period of history that has been
hill that is ‘Siege Street’. You’ll be
u.

all but wiped from Buda’s visage.

Ke zt
na út

following in the footsteps of the

s
kör

e
yalja út

This Bektashi dervish is credited

r
z ti

zső TABÁN

eg

Statue of Gül Baba.

H
u.

u.
ris
De

Tig
Naphegy

u.

rék
tér

De
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 32

32
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Have a Bath
On your way down from the Castle District, you can wind down
this tour early and take the weight off your feet with a bathe at the
once Turkish Rudas baths or Király baths (see entries in Best Baths,
p 26). The core of these stunning baths is identical in structure to
bathhouses in Turkey, with the exception that the Turks don’t bathe
in the water as it’s considered unhygienic and instead sweat on slabs.
These baths have long been converted to pools, but the old atmos-
phere is retained. Also look out for the disused mushroom-domed
former bathhouse opposite the Lukács baths (see p 28, bullet 5).

Christian international alliance as killed, bringing 145 years of Turkish

they headed toward the Vienna Gate
where they overpowered the Turks.
Look out for Turkish soldier figures
carved into the Castle wall. @ 10
min. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér.
Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér/Moszkva tér.
5 ★★ Bécsi kapu tér. Here the
Hungarians finally overpowered the
Turks to re-enter and reclaim the
Castle in 1686. Ironically, after being
rebuilt in the years after the libera-
tion of Buda, the gate was taken
down in 1896, the year of Hun-
gary’s millennium. The particular
Vienna Gate (Bécsi kapu) that
stands here today dates back to
just 1936. As you pass under the
gate look for the memorial dedi-
cated to those who fell, not just
Hungarians but also other
European forces. @ 15
min. Bus: Várbusz 16/16A-
116 to Bécsi Kapu ter.
6 Memorial of the
last Pasha. It takes a bit of
finding but it’s there; a
Muslim shrine in a typical
design within the bound-
aries of the Castle District,
albeit a little tucked away
from the busiest parts. Near
this spot in 1686, Abdurrah-
man was defeated and
Memorial of the last Pasha.
rule of Buda to an end. He is appar-
ently held in a certain amount of
esteem according to the inscription
that refers to him as both a hero and
an enemy. @ 10 min. Close to the
intersection of Anjou bástya and
Országház utca, down the steps from
the latter. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Bécsi
kapu tér.
7 Turkish Head at 24 Tánc-
sics Mihály utca. Almost blend-
ing in with the light-colored
stone-work, and right above
the Louis XVI doorway of
number 24, is the
engraved head of an
unknown but noble and
powerful-looking Turk.
Look inside at the remains
of the original Gothic
sedilla arches,
which likely pre-
date the Turkish
influence in
Budapest. @ 10
min. Bus: 16/16A/116
to Bécsi kapu tér.
8 ★★ National
Gallery. I enjoy the
dramatic paintings of
Magyar battles with
the Turks, particularly
Benczúr Gyula’s enor-
mous canvas The
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
Turkish head at 24 Táncsics Mihály utca.
Recapture of Buda Castle 1686. It
makes you think about the history
of the spot you are standing on,
even if it was painted a couple of
centuries later. (See p 131.) @ 1 hr.
Szent György tér 2 (housed in
Royal Palace). Bus: 16/16A-116 to
Szentháromság tér.
9 ★★ Inner City Parish
Church. Cross the Chain Bridge
(p 11, bullet 7) and walk down-
stream, or take Erzsébet hid (bridge
to go directly to the Inner City Parish
Church. It was the only Christian
church fully tolerated by the Turks
Inner Parish Church.
11:40 PM Page 33
33
Turkish Traces
and perhaps has something to do
with it being fitted out with a pray-
ing niche pointing toward Mecca.
You can still see it to the right of the
main altar. The surrounding restored
Islamic paintwork contrasts sharply
with the other more austere half that
was destroyed in World War II. @ 15
min. Március 15 tér. y 1/318-3108.
Tram: 2 to Március 15 tér.
0 = ★★ National Museum.
Highlights include the one remain-
ing of a set of three-of-a-kind Turkish
leather cloaks in Room 6, the rest of
which were lost in a fire at Istanbul’s
Topkapi Palace. Also of note is the
Ottoman art with military arms used
by the Turks and the Christian army
in Room 8. @ 45 min. Múzeum körút
14–16. y 1/338-2122. www.hnm.hu.
Closed Mon. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér.
! ★ Gül Baba Szeráj. You
couldn’t have a Turkish tour without
carpets or at least a chance to have
them rolled out temptingly for tea.
Unlike Istanbul, they’ll only start
throwing the carpets down if you’re
interested in the first place. Serves
a selection of plates such as ham,
cheese, olives, or hummus and
decent wine and beer, too. Paulay
Ede utca 55. No phone. $.
 34
The Best Special-Interest Tours
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The Best Coffee Houses
Page 34

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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 35

35

The Best Coffee Houses

B udapest is legendary for its coffee house (kávéház) cul-
ture and for the most part it’s an integral part of the locals’
lifestyle rather than a cliché to attract tourist dollars. Look out for the
cukrászda, basically cake shops, some of which are very cute. I don’t
Rákóczi tér

suggest following this tour rigidly, rather drop in to one of these cof-
fee houses as and when you’re passing.
Gutenburg
tér

1 ★★ New York Kávéház. The Esterházy and Dobos cakes in town.

former hangout of cash-strapped (p 17, bullet 1.)
writers, poets, and future Hollywood 3 ★ Múvész. Simple but elegant
u.
Múzeum
Nemzeti

legends back in the fin-de-siècle days.

Magyar

and old-fashioned in a welcoming

n u. These days, however, fledgling and
way with its arched windows, low-
Petőfi Irodalmi

hard-up film school contemporaries

t hanging chandeliers, and stripy wall-
körú of the likes of Hungarian-born movie
paper, Múvész is just the place to
Múzeum

eu m mogul Alexander Korda are scared

drop into for a coffee and a cake.
off by the corporate prices. There’s
The action also spills out onto the
no such thing as a preferential writ-
terrace on classy Andrássy út in
ers’ menu these days. Before it
summer, although the high ceilings
closed for restoration in the late
Ady Endre
Emlékhaz

keep it nice and cool inside. Handy

TERE

1990s it had a real faded grandeur

út

for the Opera House. Andrássy út

tó

feel, but it’s been immaculately

Saj

29. y 1/352-1337. Daily 9am–12pm.

bad

restored in its neo-Baroque splen-

Metro: M1 to Opera.
a

dor. Certainly worth a peek but not

Belvárosi
plébániatemplom
S z

everyone’s cup of tea as it’s almost 4 ★★★ Centrál Kávéház.

Erzsébet

Another famous institution from

híd

overwhelming with a few too many

cherubs for my liking, I prefer some- Budapest’s heyday that was popular
t thing a bit less ethereal. For a real with city hacks. The salons of the
par
rak coffee house are named after the
lsó splash in your wallet check out
ai a
Bud út the Deep Water restaurant in the newspaper titles patrons edited and
tila
At no doubt part worked out of. Central
basement. Erzsébet körút 9–11.
t Tabáni
plébániatemplom

y 1/886-6111. Daily 9am–12pm. is a bastion of old-world charm and

Rác
gyógyfürdő

Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. service without overdoing the glitz.

Tastefully renovated in 1999, it has
t
örú

2 ★★★ Gerbaud. Neo-Baroque

yalja út
ak

high ceilings, arched windows, and

tin

bonanza plus some of the best

all the comfort you need. Centrál is
z TABÁN

Heg

Coffee and cake at Múvész.

.
.u ső u

u.
ris
De

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06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
36
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Old world charm at Centrál Kávéház.
also great for croissants and has an
extensive coffee and wine list. More
than a coffee house, it’s also a serious
dining venue that narrowly missed
out on my list of top restaurants.
Károly Mihály utca 9. y 1/266-2110.
www.centralkavehaz.hu. Daily 7am–
12pm. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere.
5 ★★★ Astoria. Now called the
Mirror Café & Restaurant, this place
is faded 1920s grandeur personified,
with plenty of chandeliers, pillars,
and red velvet. It’s far from gloomy
now they’ve opened the curtains
and with reasonably priced café
lattes, it’s just the kind of place I like
to relax in. Nicely air-conditioned in
summer and also quite popular as a
restaurant. Kossuth Lajos utca
Relax with a good view of the Danube at Dunapark.
11:40 PM Page 36
19–21. y 1/889-6002. Daily
7am–11pm. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
6 ★ Café Alibi. A petite modern
take on the grand coffee house of
old that borrows something of a
French bistro feel and is one of my
favorites. Located in the quaint Uni-
versity District, Alibi gives you an
excuse to take time to chill out.
Food is available all day. Egyetem tér
4. y 1/317-4209. www.cafealibi.hu.
Mon–Sat 8am–9pm, Thurs–Fri
8am–10pm, Sat 9am–9pm, Sun
9am–5pm. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér.
7 ★★★ Gerlóczy Kávéház.
Look out through the high arched
windows from this excellent bistro-
cum-coffee house onto a charming
small square named after the first
mayor of Budapest, Károly Kamer-
mayer. The interior is simple and
tasteful with a long marble-topped
bar and a relaxed Parisian feel. With
its free WiFi, many make this their
office. In the warmer weather the
action spills out right onto the traf-
fic-free square. I also rate this place
for a full meal (p 100). Gerlóczy utca
1. y 1/501-4000. www.gerloczy.hu.
Daily 7am–11pm. Metro: M1/M2/M3
to Deák tér.
8 ★ Fröhlich Cukrászda. The
place to come for flavorsome flódni
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
Angelica.
(a triple whammy of apple, poppy
seeds, and walnuts, encased in
crispy pastry) which is Hungary’s
contribution to Jewish confec-
tionery. Kosher Fröhlich is nothing
plush to look at but has been home
baking since 1953 and has a real
neighborhood café feel. Dob utca
22. y 1/267-2851. Mon–Thurs
9am–8pm, Fri 7:30am–6pm, Sun
10am–4pm. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
9 ★ Dunapark. Part modern,
part 1930s, Dunapark is housed in a
Bauhaus housing block and has
plenty of cool Art Deco touches. Big
windows provide views to the
Danube and the attractive Szent
István Park, while the cakes are
exquisitely and temptingly pre-
sented as you walk in. Less on dis-
play is the card room, tucked away
upstairs. Increasingly a serious din-
ing establishment. Pozsonyi utca 38.
y 1/786-1009. www.dunapark
kavehaz.hu. Mon–Fri 8am–12pm, Sat
10am–12pm, Sun 10am–10pm.
Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér.
0 Angelica. With its view of
Batthyány tér and across to Parlia-
ment, this is a very special and
relaxing place to sit outside in sum-
mer. Unfortunately, the eclectic neo-
Baroque and 1970s retro décor has
been replaced by something much
more sterile, although you can
11:40 PM Page 37
37
The Best Coffee Houses
still use your imagination to
picture the interior chambers as
a one-time crypt. Batthyány tér 7.
y 1/201-0668. Daily 10am–10pm.
Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér.
! ★★★ Ruszwurm
Cukrászda. This bijou and cozy
cake joint with low-arched walls
dates back to 1827 and retains
plenty of old Baroque charm despite
its location in the tourist epicenter
of Budapest. It looks a bit like a
medieval chemist’s but, behind the
curtain, confectionery from classic
recipes by Hungarian cake guru Illés
Tóth is being concocted. Cream pas-
tries, Tirol strudels, buttered dough,
and many more are presented entic-
ingly above the charming wooden
counter—it’s easy just to point to
the ones you want. For something
savory try the scone-like pogácsa.
Szentháromság utca 7. y 1/375-
5284. www.ruszwurm.hu. Daily
9am–8pm, closes 7pm off season.
16/16A/116 to Szentháromság tér.
@ ★★ Auguszt Cukrászda. Run
by the same family for five genera-
tions, this cute confectionery shop
now has three branches. It is famous
for the E80, a coffee, cream, marzi-
pan, and chocolate cream cake
combo. Fény utca 8. y 1/316-3817.
www.augusztcukraszda.hu. Metro:
M2 to Moszkva tér.
 38
The Best Special-Interest Tours
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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 39

39

Budapest with Kids

A side from the green areas of City Park and Margaret
Island featured in Best of the Outdoors (p 81), Budapest has a
number of other outstanding children’s attractions, ranging from
u. good old-fashioned fun to the modern and interactive. START: M1 to
u.
zál Vörösmarty utca.

Do
1 ★★ Bábszí nház (Puppet
Theater). Traditional fairy tales and
acclaimed modern adaptations of
ZSILINSZKY ÚT

ballet, opera, and pantomime clas-

sics are performed here. Look out
FERENC TÉR

for The Wooden Prince from local

DEÁK

legend Béla Bartók. Andrássy út 69.

y 1/322-5051. Ft 500–Ft 2,700
Erzsébet

depending on the performance.

u.

tér
József Attila

Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty utca.

VÖRÖSMARTY
TÉR

2 ★★★ Palace of Wonders

Mérle

(Csodák Palotája). Inside, inter-

active exhibitions keep the children
tér

entertained and absorbed, but also

teach them scientific principles with-
Széchenyi
lánchíd

out them even realizing it. It’s part

of the Millenáris arts complex, and Take a packed lunch aboard the
children’s train.
the outdoors part is great for relax-
Ádám tér

art
Clark

ing with the kids. @ 1 hr. Millenáris,

Budavári

which youngsters, or ‘pioneers’ as

palota

Building D. Fény utca 20–22.

they were referred to, were handed
p

y 1/336-4044. www.millenaris.hu.
Várszínház

Ft 1,090, Ft 890. Mon–Sun 10am– the responsibility of running this rail-

Disz
tér

5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed way that snakes through the scenic
Buda Hills. A packed lunch is a good
.

for renewal for two weeks from late

Krisztina Alagút u

Aug. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. idea. @ 1 hr. See p 87, bullet 2.

Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. Fogaskerekú (Cog Wheel Railway) to
.
ru

Széchenyi hegy.
tér
ule

3 ★ Children’s Railway (Gyer-

Pa

mekvasút). A bizarre but cute 4 ★★★ Railway Museum

t

(Vasúttörténeti Park). Drive a

örú

u.

hangover from the former system in

e
k

ád
na

steam engine, operate a hand

óT
zti

s
s zk
ri

iu
Kosc Traditional fairy tales at Bábszi nház.
wagon, or ride on a horse-pulled
tram at Europe’s first interactive rail-
Alkotás u. way museum, which is home to
Hungary’s 50-strong operation
steam fleet. A vintage diesel shuttle
runs to the museum from Nyugati
Station 3 Apr–24 Oct. @ 2 hr.
y 06/70-313-4957. Family ticket Ft
u.
1,900. Closed Mon & Dec 19–Mar 14.
rinc Interactive rides by appointment
h Lő
Tót
i út

only Mar 15–Apr 1 & Nov 2–Dec 18.

egy

Apr 3–Oct 24 10am–6pm, otherwise

ánh
Orb

10am–3am. Bus: 30 to Rokolya utca.

Tram: 14 to Rokolya utca.
 40
The Best Special-Interest Tours
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Page 40

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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 41

41

Revolutionary Budapest
S tart at Bem tér (Square), the meeting point of protestors
on October 23, 1956 from where the 1956 revolution against
the Soviet-backed government and Soviet meddling was initiated.
t Partially successful demonstrations in Poland, a traditional ally, in
iú
me
Fi u June 1956 against Soviet influence made people believe change
could come to Hungary. Bem himself was a Polish general who fought
Köztársaság

with Hungary against Austria in the 1848–9 Revolution. START: Tram: 4

tér

or 6 to Margit híd, Budai hídfó. Bus: 86 to Bem József tér.

zi c

u.
Rákó

r é dj

1 Bem Statue, Bem József ‘goulash Communism’. @ 15 min.

B e ze

u. tér. Last time I passed by this leg- Bem tér. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér.
u. endary square to take a peek at the Tram: 4 or 6 to Margit híd, Budai
zát
u. LUJZA TÉR
BLAHA

statue of this swashbuckling Pole, hídfó. Bus: 86 to Bem József tér.

who fought with the Hungarians
2 ★★★ Kossuth Lajos tér/Par-
D Blaha
Lujza tér

against the ruling Austrians in 1848,

liament. After the meeting of minds
ny

there was just myself and a home-

ohá

in front of the Bem Statue in 1956,

. less guy. But don’t let that put you
ió fa u the crowd that was growing in size
g yD off—this is the spot where the spark
Na and revolutionary fervor marched
u. that triggered the 1956 Revolution
czy
.

Kazin
yi u

on to Parliament now demanding

was ignited. Rewind to October 23,
lén

u. change. The bullet holes in the walls

sse

Síp
1956: in the wake of a promisingly
e

zsinagóga

.
W

bu of the Agricultural Ministry (p 51,

g g
Nagy

Do tolerated rebellion in Poland, groups

u.

bullet 3) opposite testify to the

of protestors, starting with students
u.

point where a peaceful demonstra-

ch

and soon spreading to the masses,

ba

tion turned violent as Russian tanks

Kir Rum

met here to stand united against

and troops fired into the crowd after
á

kör oly

hardcore Communist rule. The Hun-

út
Kár

being shot at from the roof of the

garian Revolution was ultimately ill-
Ministry. @ 30 min. Kossuth Lajos tér.
fated but nevertheless saw many
DEÁK
FERENC TÉR

Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér.

Hungarians escape the tyranny. It
.
Bécsi u also led to a gradual softening of the
regime through reforms which saw
the implementation of so-called
3 = Imre Nagy Bridge
Statue. Imre Nagy was Hungary’s ill-
fated hero of the 1956 Revolution, a

Hungary’s ill-fated hero Imre Nagy.

06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM
42
The Best Special-Interest Tours
reform-minded Communist Party
politician and former leader who
sought a new, less strict brand of
Socialism for Hungary. He is captured
here looking back at Parliament as if
thinking about what might have been
had the West backed his country in its
revolution against Soviet-backed rule.
@ 15 min. Vértanúk tere. Corner of
Báthory utca, Nádor utca and Vécsey
utca. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér.
4 ★★ Radio Building. After
things turned nasty at Parliament,
the battle was on for control of the
airwaves. There may not be many
battle scars to see except for a
bombed-out wall from the original
Radio Building, but I like to wander
the streets of this atmospheric neigh-
borhood behind the National
Museum and soak up the past. Look
out for the beautifully restored
palaces either side of the Radio
Building’s modern entrance. @ 15
min. Bródy Sándor utca 5–7. Metro:
M2 to Astoria or M3 to Kálvin tér.
5 ★ Corvin Mozi. This cinema
complex, with its key
strategic position next to
Pest entry and exit thor-
oughfare Üllói út, was the
site of intense fighting
against the Soviets.
You won’t find any
rubble, mortar
marks, or bullet
holes here, how-
ever, as Corvin has
been restored to its for-
mer glory and function,
although you will find a
statue of a boy with a rifle
that pays tribute to those
who fell in the name of the
Revolution. @ 15 min.
Corvin köz 1. (Close to corner
of József körút and Üllói út.)
y 1/459-5050. Metro: M3 to
Ferenc körút. Tram: 4/6 to
Ferenc korut.
Page 42
6 Blaha Lujza tér. After being
pulled down with only his boots
remaining in place, the Stalin statue
was dragged here and smashed up.
The square bears the marks of the
Communist period. It is also a popu-
lar choice for violent protests, but
also for partying. The roof of Social-
ist superstore Corvin is given over to
a fabulous expansive rooftop bar in
summer. @ 30 min. Blaha Lujza tér.
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér.
7 Lanzhou. The Chinese poured
into Budapest to study and work in
the former system. This restaurant
may look real simple, but plenty of
Chinese are among the patrons and
the food is very authentic. A bowl of
chicken and noodle soup appears in
no time and really tides you over to
a bigger meal later. Luther utca 1/b.
y 1/314-1080. $.
8 ★ Köztársaság tér. A short
walk from Blaha Lujza tér, this is the
site where revolutionaries commit-
ted brutal executions of the wrong
people. At the Communist Party
headquarters at number 26 on
October 30, 1956 an angry crowd
turned on surrendering army
officials who they thought
were members of the
despised secret police. The
Socialist Party headquarters
was controversially housed
here until recently. Köztár-
saság tér 26.
9 ★ Serbian Embassy.
Imre Nagy (see bullet 3), who
led Hungary’s uprising against
the Soviet Union in 1956,
sought refuge here at the
Yugoslavian Embassy
overlooking Heroes
Square (p 7, bullet 1).
Statue of a boy soldier
at Corvin Mozi.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09
Stalin’s boots at Blaha Lujza tér.
The country really managed to pur-
sue its own path of market-oriented
Socialism, keeping clear of the
restraints imposed by the Soviet
control organ of the Warsaw Pact.
Yugoslav Socialism could have pro-
vided an economic and political
model something akin to what Imre
Nagy, himself a reform-minded
Socialist, might have envisaged for
Hungary. Thus, the then Yugoslavian
Embassy seemed a safe haven for
Nagy as the Revolution became a
crushed rebellion. Indeed it was safe
until he left when he was seized
by Soviet agents, and then shipped
off to eventual but certain death,
despite assurances to the contrary
by his successor János Kádár. Often
seen as a pawn of Soviet wishes,
Kádár is nevertheless credited with
reforming the economy along free-
market lines, thus making Hungary
the so-called happiest barrack in the
Communist camp. Opposite at
11:40 PM Page 43
43
Revolutionary Budapest
Heroes Square, in 1989, with the
winds of change in the air, Nagy was
laid to rest once more with full state
honors in front of a huge crowd.
Kádár, who relinquished the leader-
ship due to ill health and a struggling
economy in 1988, passed away just
weeks later on July 6, ironically on
the same day as Nagy was acquitted
of treason by the Supreme Court.
Dózsa György út 92/b. Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere.
0 Felvonulási tér. The Hungar-
ian Communist equivalent of
Moscow’s Red Square is now noth-
ing more than a handy parking spot.
However, this is where the annual
show parade of Communist might
took place, while Party dignitaries
watched on from a podium over
which a statue of Stalin stood. For a
replica of the podium, replete with
Stalin’s boots, head to Memento
Park (p 46, bullet 1). Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere. Next to Heroes Square.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 44

44
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Communist Budapest—Behind
the Iron Curtain
Boly
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 06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 45

45

Behind the Iron Curtain

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uu

György tér
.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 46

46
The Best Special-Interest Tours
A side from ugly Soviet-era buildings next to fin-de-siècle
masterpieces, traces of the past regime are not immediately
apparent so this tour requires a bit of traveling. Most of the Commu-
nist statues were dragged off to Memento Park on the outskirts of
Budapest, which is where we start our tour. START: Bus: 150 from
Kosztolányi Dezsó tér to Memento Park.

1 ★★★ Memento Statue at Memento Park.

Park (includes Statue
Park). Hungarians are
reflective about their history.
Instead of destroying all traces of
the past, the despised statues
Park toward sun-
of the former regime were
set, when you can best
dragged here to stare at each
feel their menace and
other. You’re greeted by
collective might bear-
an imposing statue of
ing down on you.
Lenin and a funky
Cubist one of the @ 1 hr. Corner of
Balatoni út and
Communist Manifesto authors Marx
Szabadkai utca.
and Engels as you enter the Park.
My favorite has to be the Herculean
y 1/424-7500.
www.mementopark.hu. Ft 1,500.
worker figure of the Republic of
Daily 10am–dusk. Bus: 150 from
Councils Monument (statue no. 33)
Kosztolányi Dezsó tér to Memento
in full flight, sprinting for the Com-
Park (25 min). Dedicated bus: Ft
munist cause. The statues still get
3,950 including return trip via direct
the emotions going and it’s easy to
bus from Deák tér (bus departs 11am
get indignant at the statue com-
all year, plus 3pm in July & Aug).
memorating Soviet/Hungarian coop-
eration whereby a worker shakes 2 ★★★ House of Terror. A
hands with a beefy Soviet soldier cutting-edge museum detailing the
(statue no. 4), almost visually sug- horrors of oppressive regimes that
gesting don’t mess with me and occurred on this site. See p 14,
you’ll be fine. I especially like the bullet 6.

The Soviet War Memorial.

06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 47

47

Behind the Iron Curtain

Óbuda—Traces of ‘Old Buda’
Behind the Socialist Façade
Communist town planners really took to consigning Óbuda’s
one-time beauty to the history books; however, nearby pockets of
charm thankfully remain. Baroque Fó tér has survived intact and still
looks striking despite the ugliness of huge tower blocks bearing
down on it. In addition to cute old houses, Roman ruins are also spat-
tered around the ‘prefab paradise’. The Amphitheater off Pacsir-
tamezó (Intersection of Viador utca) is said to have been as big as the
Coliseum, while the densest collection of Roman ruins can be found
at Acquincum. Hercules Villa (Meggyfa utca 21) was closed due to
‘technical problems’ at the time of writing, but the impressive mytho-
logical floor mosaics could be viewed with a minimum group of six by
calling y 1/430 1-1081. The museum itself is very retro and blends in
well with the Socialist-era housing blocks of the area.

3 ★ Soviet War Memorial.

This war memorial is a notable sur- 4 ★★ Marxim. Communist-
themed pizzeria and pub with
vivor of the purge of the Socialist-
barbed wire and chicken wire sepa-
era statues that found their way
rating the booths, decked out with
to Memento Park. Controversial,
plenty of Socialist-period memora-
thanks to the Soviet ‘liberators’
bilia. The pizza is chunky American
who overstayed their welcome by
rather than Soviet. Feel free to write
more than 40 years, the memorial
your messages on the walls. Kis
still stands proud, although unsur-
Rókus utca 23. y 1/316-0231. $.
prisingly there is a movement
underway to tear it down. The
wounds of Soviet influence are still Communist-themed bar Marxim.
raw and it was severely vandalized
during the anti-government riots
of 2006 and is now ring-fenced.
Interestingly, the final touches to
its refurbishment were applied
when Socialist Prime Minister Ferenc
Gyurcsány was in Moscow. The
memorial is directly opposite the US
Embassy, where Cardinal Mindszenty
sought refuge in 1956 as the Soviets
extinguished the fire of the uprising.
He stayed for 15 years in a big finger-
up to the suppression of the church.
@ 10 min. Szabadság tér. No phone.
Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér or M3
to Bajcsy-Zsilinsky út.
06_697580-ch02.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM
48
The Best Special-Interest Tours
Moszkva Tér.
5 Moszkva tér. Moszkva tér is a
charming old square surrounded by
dramatic buildings, such as the cas-
tle-like Post Office admin building.
The masterpiece of the square, how-
ever, is the surge of Socialist-Realism
that emerges from the middle square
in the form of the space age under-
ground station. ‘Moscow Square’ is a
busy and bustling meeting point and
transport hub—the kind of place
where people come to sign up for a
day’s illegal work—and therefore is
subject to regular police raids. The
escalator to the underground
descends from such a height it can
make you dizzy. @ 15 min. Moszkva
tér. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér.
6 ★★ Children’s Railway. A
cute hangover of the previous politi-
cal system, the Children’s Railway
was run by the Communist ‘pioneer’
youth movement that delivered
organizational skills and an under-
standing of responsibility to future
Party members (p 87, bullet 2).
@ 1 hr. Fogaskerekú (Cog Wheel
Railway) to Széchenyi hegy.
7 ★★ Prefab housing over-
looking Flórián tér, Óbuda. A
bizarre sight that bears the architec-
tural stamp of two contrasting
empires: Roman and Soviet. The
prefab housing block is among the
city’s drabbest and is supposedly
Eastern Europe’s longest connected
Page 48
estate—but no one is shouting this
from the rooftop. It’s a far cry from
what’s left of the classical columns
that make up the ruins of a Roman
settlement in the square it over-
looks. Tucked under the flyover
you’ll find the remains of Roman
baths. @ 30 min. HÉV to Árpád híd.
8 ★ PECSA. This Socialist-era
music venue replete with a funky
exterior is still going strong and you
can see some big names here, both
on the indoor and outdoor stage.
On weekend mornings it’s the place
to buy Socialist bric-à-brac (see Best
Shopping p 65). Zichy Mihály utca.
y 1/363-3730. Metro: M1 to
Széchenyi fürdó. Map p 70.
9 ★★ = Sporting hero stat-
ues. I’ve always found these stat-
ues of Socialist sporting titans
inspiring. They almost seem to tran-
scend political ideology, although
sport was used to express sup-
posed superiority of the political
left. Nevertheless, they stand as
tributes to an impressive sporting
past. Now used as a backdrop for
concerts and events, you can nor-
mally get in to see them. The stat-
ues are part of the Ferenc Puskás
stadium, which has many interest-
ing Socialist design elements.
@ 30 min. Ifjúság út 1–3. 100m on
right from entrance. Free Admission.
Metro: M2 to Stadionak.
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 49

3 The Best
Neighborhood Walks
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:40 PM Page 50

50
The Best Neighborhood Walks
Belváros
Olimpia 1 Museum of Ethnography
0 1/4 mi
park 2 Parliament
0 0.25 km Stollár Nyugati 3 Agricultural Ministry
Béla u. tér
4 Bridge Statue of Imre Nagy
LIPOTVAROS 5 Szabadság tér
start Szalay u. 6 Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok
here Néprajzi
1 7 National Savings Treasury
Múzeum y u.
Alkotmán
8 Hungarian National Bank
Honvéd u.

Országház 2
re u.
3
Kálmán Im 9 Szent István Basilica and tér
u.

Bajcsy Zsilinszky út
Báth ory 10 Roosevelt tér
KOSSUTH M
Hold u.

LAJOS TÉR 4 11 Vörösmarty tér

Vadász u.

Ha
12

jós
Waterfront
Garibaldi u. 5

u.
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6 13 Ferenciek tere
Zoltán u. Szabadság
Széchenyi rakp

tér 14 University Church

7
re u. 8
Steindl Im Bank u. ARANY
M JÁNOS
Akadémia

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 07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 51

51

Belváros
Y ou won’t be able to miss the size and extravagance of
Hungary’s neo-Gothic Parliament that looks built for a super-
power—which in fact Hungary was when it was completed in 1904.
However, this is just the start of epic central Pest and on this tour
you’ll see other landmark buildings from Budapest’s heyday. Despite
the distinct air of faded grandeur, much of this neighborhood’s his-
tory lies nearer to the present. START: Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos
tér/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca.

1 Museum of Ethnography. territory and around the same in

This impressive neo-classical build- population, but the Parliament is still
ing helps counterbalance the power there to be savored in all its glory.
of the Parliament opposite and is sit- See p 10, bullet 6.
uated in yet another beautiful 3 = Agricultural Ministry.
Budapest square. On the inside, its
I always make a beeline for the
permanent exhibitions help give a
arches of the Agricultural Ministry
perspective on the maverick Mag-
and walk along the covered passage
yars. @ 15 min–1 hr (depending on
watched by the busts of notable
Ernst whether you visit the exhibition).
úzeum Magyar agriculturalists. Look out for
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. www.neprajz.
the marked bullet holes from the
hu. Admission Ft 800. 10am–6pm.
Kis

1956 uprising-cum-revolution against

Dió

Closed Mon. Metro: M2 to Kossuth

the Soviets. Kossuth Lajos tér 11.
fa u

Lajos tér/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca.

.

Klauzál
tér 4 = Bridge Statue of Imre
2 ★★★ Parliament. Sprawling Nagy. Hungary’s ill-fated leader is
lektrotechnikai in size and style, Hungary’s giant
Múzeum captured here in a moving forlorn
u.

Parliament building signifies Hun-

pose (p 41, bullet 3). Vértanúk
i u. gary’s pre-Trianon might. The Tri-
ény tere. Corner of Báthory utca, Nádor
Kazin

e ssel anon Treaty of 1920 might have

utca & Vécsey utca.
czy
Síp

seen Hungary lose two-thirds of its

u.

5 ★ = Szabadság tér. I like

u.

Imre Nagy looks over to the parliament to grab a coffee at Café Farger at
i út
Rá k óc z building. Zoltán utca 18, sit outside and con-
ORIA
template this grand and spacious
Puskin

square’s contradictions. The contro-

u.

versial Soviet War Memorial pays

thanks to the Soviet forces for liber-
almi Magyar ating Hungary from the Nazis,
Nemzeti
Múzeum though ironically they then effec-
h tively stayed for more than 40 years.
m u. The memorial faces the old Cold
Múzeu
KÁLVIN War foe in the form of the American
TÉR
lvin Embassy, which was severely van-
ér
dalized in the 2006 riots for its
Rád

association with the Socialist-led

ay u

government. The then Prime Minis-

.

u. ter, Ferenc Gyurcsány, was caught

Erkel
on tape at a supposed closed party
rnok convention admitting that his gov-
ernment had screwed it up and
done nothing for the country. In
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09
52
The Best Neighborhood Walks
Bees making honey on the façade of the National Savings Treasury.
tandem, in perhaps the most drastic
action of the 2006 anti-government
insurrection, the building that
houses the Hungarian State Televi-
sion (MTV) was stormed by right-
wing protestors and curious
members of the onlooking crowd.
The vast structure was built by
Ignác Alpár, also of National Bank
fame, and once housed the stock
exchange. Szabadság tér.
6 Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok.
Head to the far end of this inner-city
food market for a Hungarian version
of fish ‘n’ chips, next to which
there’s a hole-in-the-wall eatery
serving hearty Hungarian classics.
Also, stalls selling deep-fried
dough (lángos), sausages galore,
and cheap Chinese. Hold utca.
y 1/332-3976. 6:30am–5pm Mon,
6:30am–6pm Tues–Fri, 6:30am–2pm
Sat. Closed Sun.
7 ★★★ National Savings Trea-
sury. The depictions of bees making
honey, symbolizing moneymaking,
can be seen on the exterior walls of
this Art Nouveau masterpiece from
Ödön Lechner, Hungary’s answer to
Gaudí. (See p 15, bullet 8.)
11:41 PM Page 52
8 Hungarian National Bank.
Like the epic Parliament building,
the stature of Hungary’s Central
Bank is reflected in the size and
drama of the building. The building
was originally constructed as the
headquarters for the Budapest net-
work of the Austro-Hungarian Bank
in 1905. An eclectic and empower-
ing palatial structure, it was
designed by the financial institution
architect supremo Ignác Alpár and
stands in contrast to the slick, mod-
ern Bank Center, opposite it, that
went up some 90 years later.
Szabadság tér 8–9.
9 ★★★ Szent István Basilica
and tér. My first memory of Saint
Stephen’s Basilica (p 9, bullet 5) is
from the early 1990s when it was a
neglected, blackened structure—a
far cry from its gleaming condition
now. The square itself is also looking
good these days and appears to
have been hand-polished. Szent
István tér.
0 ★★ Roosevelt tér. Compris-
ing the opulent Academy of Sci-
ences, on the left-hand side as you
face Pest from the number 2 tram
stop, and the stunningly restored
Art Nouveau Four Seasons Gresham
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09
Palace hotel opposite, the new
office building between them has
enhanced the square no end. The
southern side, however, is the realm
of the big hotels built to Socialist-
Realist specifications. Roosevelt tér.
! ★ Vörösmarty tér. One of the
many mini-centers of Pest that is
looking considerably better and
more like an old town square now
that a tasteful modern structure
(parallel with the Danube, on the
side closest to the river) has
replaced the former Socialist-era
monstrosity. Toward Christmas an
ever-improving Christmas market
pops up on the square where shop-
pers keep the cold off by imbibing
mulled wine (forralt bor). Vörös-
marty tér.
@ ★ = Walk the water-
front. Pretty Vigádo tér is named
after the arch-windowed and pil-
lared concert hall.
# ★★★ Ferenciek tere. This
square is notable for Pest’s very
own twin towers, the ornate Habs-
burg-period, neo-Renaissance
Klondit and Matilda. They lie directly
opposite each other, either side of
the busy Szabadsajtó út, and form
Locals rest on the steps at Vörösmarty tér.
11:41 PM Page 53
53
Belváros
Szent István Basilica.
an impressive exit gate from Pest
over Erzsébet Bridge. The view look-
ing between the buildings to the
more modern bridge and to Gellért
Hill is striking. Párizsi udvar (at Fer-
enciek tere 10–11/Petófi Sándor
utca 2–8) is a grandiose forerunner
of the modern shopping mall, and
seems to be lifted straight from
turn-of-the-century Paris. It was built
on the eve of World War I during the
last phase of Budapest’s epic Aus-
tro-Hungarian construction frenzy.
This under-utilized shopping arcade
is finished in polished dark colors
that resemble the interior of a
cathedral and is topped off by
intricate and sumptuously colored
glasswork.
$ ★★ University Church. A
Baroque beauty tucked away in this
less frequented but atmospheric
corner of District V. Famous Hungar-
ian saints and mythical Magyars fea-
ture in the side chapels while fading
Baroque brushwork makes this the
kind of church I like. Ask the friendly
gentleman—who is eager to try out
his English—if you can see the clois-
ter. @ 15 min. Free admission.
Egyetem ter.
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54
The Best Neighborhood Walks
The Jewish Quarter
M OKTOGON
0 1/4 mi
.
au

Te
0 0.25 km ófi

réz
Sz

k
örú
Liszt
út
u.

t
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rás ály
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gy

kö
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m
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tés
Múzeum

z u.
.
yu
va
Ré út
sy

Csá
ás
dr

nyi
An .
Sz

eu

u.
ék

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ula
Mi

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u
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u.

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ándo
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1 Great Synagogue Bródy
örút

2 Rumbach utca Synagogue Petőfi Irodalmi

Pollack

Múzeum
3 Madách Imre tér
Magyar Nemzeti
Mihály

4 Gozsdu Udvár
Múzeum
5 Kazinczy utca Synagogue
tér

6 Cari Mama Pizzeria Kec m u.

s kem Múzeu
7 Klauzál tér eti Kálvin
u.
tér
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55

The Jewish Quarter

B udapest is home to Central and Eastern Europe’s largest
Jewish community and this neighborhood in District VII is its
core. While you’re more than likely to visit one of its hip nightspots, it
.
is well worth looking and nibbling around in the daytime when it’s
au
ó fi steeped in atmosphere. Magnificent synagogues surrounded by
Sz
crumbling buildings are the norm and it’s not hard to imagine that
r út

u.
ály this was once a ghetto. START: M2 to Astoria then walk a couple of
Kir
minutes to the Great Synagogue at Dohány utca 2 on the corner of
Erz
séb

Wesselényi utca.
et
kö
rú t
Ker

1 ★★★ Great Synagogue. revolutionary form influenced syna-

tés
z

gogue design internationally. How-

u.

Somewhat tucked away off the main

drag, the Great Synagogue has been
beautifully restored and reopened in
1995. It also houses the Hungarian
Jewish Museum. For me the real
Ak
ever, it’s not just the architecture of
this Neolog house of worship that
changed the course of history:
Tivadar Herzl, the father of modern
Zionism, who sought the establish-

drama of the building, which is the

ác fa

world’s second largest synagogue ment of a Jewish country in the Mid-

u.

after New York’s, is in the Moorish
and Byzantine exterior. Some Gothic
touches, like the arched windows
and trefoil ledge, are also apparent,
Kla
dle East, was born within its grounds
in 1860. A central part of the ghetto in
World War II, the back courtyard has a
cemetery where a couple of thousand

although the interior is suitably lavish. Jews, who perished in atrocious con-
uz
ál

ditions, are buried. The leaves of Imre

u.

The twin onion-domed towers crown

Varga’s moving metallic weeping wil-
Ny

hnikai the building’s oldest part, designed

ár u

by Viennese Ludwig Förster, while low contain names of those who died
.
Na

in the holocaust. @ 1 hr. Go early at

gy

the wing that houses the museum to

Dió

the left side was added in 1931. 10am on weekdays before crowds in
fa u
.

After its consecration in 1859, the summer. Dohány utca 2 (corner of

The Great Synagogue and Hungarian Jewish Museum.

Vas u
.
.

or u .

u.
úzeum
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM
56
The Best Neighborhood Walks
The stunning tunnel-like courtyard Gozsdu Udvar.
Wesselényi utca). Admission Ft 1,600.
Metro: M2 to Astoria.
2 Rumbach utca Synagogue.
A symbol of compromise between
squabbling factions of the local Jew-
ish community, Viennese Otto Wag-
ner built the so-called ‘status quo’
synagogue in 1872 using bright
Moorish colors and topping the
structure with a pair of classic
mosque-like towers. Although it no
longer functions as a synagogue,
visitors are sometimes allowed in to
Rambach utca Synagogue can sometimes
be entered for a small fee.
Page 56
view the colorful turquoise-domi-
nated interior for a small fee. Rum-
bach utca.
3 Arch between buildings at
Madách Imre tér. The huge arch-
way that connects the towering
bright red-brick townhouses that
look out onto the central boulevard
of Károly körút was to have been the
entry point to a new grand boule-
vard that would have graced Jewish
Budapest. However, the tragic
events of World War II put paid to
that idea. The view back through
the archway to Gellért Hill is spec-
tacular, but the boulevard peters
out quickly when a modern banking
center crosses its path. Madách
Imre tér.
4 ★★★ Gozsdu Udvar. Con-
tinue down Rumbach utca and walk
up Király utca to number 13. This
stunning tunnel-like courtyard net-
work, which has been used in
numerous films, connects the
upcoming and trendy Király utca
with the still ghetto-like Dob utca.
Now it’s gone a bit upmarket (the
idea is to turn it into a shopping
arcade) compared to its state of
decayed beauty of just a few years
back, when it was home to just one
solitary obstinate tenant who resis-
ted the developers. The developers
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57

The Jewish Quarter

Best of the Rest of Jewish Budapest
The functioning synagogue at Frankel Leó út 49 is a bizarre sight.
Passing many times from the Danube side, onto which the back juts
between two large townhouses, I thought it was simply bricked up.
However, from the Frankel Leó side there’s a fully functioning syna-
gogue amazingly tucked inside a courtyard. The main Budapest Jew-
ish cemetery at Kozma utca 3 in District X (y 1/262-4687) contains
some stunning Art Nouveau tombs, especially that of the Schmidl
family, which is the work of Hungary’s secessionist Kings Lechner and
Lajta who used Zsolnay ceramics in the design. The Holocaust Memo-
rial Center at Páva utca 39 in District IX (y 1/455-3333) charts the
tragic path from deprivation of rights to genocide for local Jews and
Roma. Another chilling reminder of many of the local Jewish popula-
tion’s terrible fate comes from the permanent ‘Shoes on the Danube
Promenade’ memorial, a few hundred yards from Parliament in the
direction of the Chain Bridge. This 40m/130ft row of sculpted iron
shoes, created in 2005 by Gyula Pauer and Can Togay, stands as a
memorial to victims of Hungary’s Nazi party, the Arrow Cross, who in
1944 and 1945 shot Jews after making them take off their shoes. They
then fell straight into the river.

got their way, of course, but, fortu-

nately, much of the old atmosphere
remains. So far only one bar, Konczi
Kert, near the Király utca entrance,
is open (summer 2008). Enter from
Király utca 13 or Dob utca 16.
www.gozsduudvar.hu.
5 Kazinczy utca Synagogue.
I just love how the Art Nouveau
movement influenced the design of
the city’s synagogues. The Kazinczy
Synagogue boasts an awesome Art
Nouveau façade, half hidden down
this narrow street, which is all the
more remarkable when you think
that this was commissioned by
orthodox traditionalists. @ 30 min.
Kazinczy utca 29–31.10am–3:30pm
Mon–Thurs, 10am–12:30pm Fri &
Sun. Admission Ft 800.
6 ★★ Cari Mama Pizzeria.
Quick and crispy Kosher pizza, sand-
wiches, salads, fried eggs, and
pastries, although the latter tend to
have sold out by midday. The smoked
salmon ‘Smokey’ pizza is my, and
many other people’s, favorite. Kaz-
inczy utca 28. y 1/342-0231. $.
7 = Klauzál tér. This big,
ambient square has seen a lot in its
history. The ironwork doorway into
the indoor market hall retains some
pre-war charm, although there’s a
lack of market stalls with the space
mainly taken up by a supermarket.
For atmosphere head a few doors
down to the Kádár Étkezde (p 100)
for a late lunch (closes 4:30pm). For-
get retro, this is the genuine article
with pictures of past celebrities,
soda siphons to dilute raspberry
cordial (málna szörp), and patch-
work tablecloths. You still pay the
man on the door on the way out for
what you’ve had. Klauzál tér.
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 58

58
The Best Neighborhood Walks
The Watertown (Víziváros)
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 07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 59

59

The Watertown (Viziváros)

I love wandering this gem-packed small area wedged between
the Castle District and the Danube, especially at the weekend
when all’s peaceful. The main sights are down toward the river but I
also recommend climbing the steep picturesque streets, particularly
Ponty utca (Carp Street) that starts down on Fó utca. START: M2 to
Batthyány tér.

1 ★★★ Batthyány tér. Strik- 4 ★ Corvin tér. Here you’ll find

ingly situated directly opposite Par-
liament (see p 10, bullet 6), which
effectively makes up the fourth cor-
Országház ner of the square despite being on
the other side of the Danube,
Batthyány tér is a haven of Baroque
beauty in this busy part of Buda.
The Baroque attractions include St.
Anne’s church and a number of col-
Pesti alsó rakpart
another haven of Baroque buildings
clustered either side of the square,
as well as the eclectic-looking turn-
of-the-century Budai Vigadó at
number 8, which is home to the
Hungarian National Folk Ensemble.
It’s worth peeking inside for the Art
Nouveau interior decoration, and
grand staircases. I find the square at

orful houses, including one sunk its best on weekends when the traf-
below street level. Sip a coffee in fic is sparse.
the famous Café Angelica (p 37,
bullet 0) and you’ll be sitting in the
church’s former crypt. The impres- 5 Corvin Kávézö. Bijou café
right on pretty Corvin tér that
sive market hall is a more recent
enables you to refuel while admiring
addition. Batthyány tér.
the Baroque houses or the view up
to Castle Hill. $.
2 Nagyi Palacsintázója. Fast
food Hungarian style with sweet
The bustling Batthyány tér.
and savory pancakes, plus salads
and filled jacket potatoes.
Batthyány tér 5. $.

3 Budai alsó rakpart and the

Chain Bridge. Stroll along next to
chenyi
nchíd the tree-lined tramline overlooking
the Danube to the Chain Bridge.
Budapest’s most famous bridge fea-
tures two arched neo-classical but-
tresses that rise high above the
water. Often compared to a pair of
imperious ‘silent’ lions, they were
sculpted by János Marschalkó who
curiously didn’t give them tongues.
There’s also plenty of both solid and
intricate ironwork hanging from the
buttresses. See p 11, bullet 7.
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 60

60
The Best Neighborhood Walks
The Castle District

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.

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1 Royal Palace 7 András Hadik’s Equestrian Statue

2 Miró Café 8 Cave Hospital and Bunker
3 St. Matthias Church 9 Magdalene Tower
4 Equestrian Statue of King István 10 Táncsics Mihály utca and Tóth Árpád sétány
5 Fisherman’s Bastion 11 Bécsi kapu tér
6 Ruszwurm Cukrászda
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61

The Castle District

T he opulence of the repeatedly razed and rebuilt Royal
Palace and St. Matthias Church dramatically portrays Hun-
gary’s trials and tribulations. They are, however, just the beginning of
this historic and richly bequeathed district. Being Budapest’s most
tourist-infested area I recommend an early start, but it’s also great at
night. START: Bus 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. There is also the Sikló (funicu-
HYÁNY
lar) for Ft 800 to the Castle gate from Clark Ádám tér below the Castle,
a which is quite a bit more expensive than the bus.
m

1 ★★★ Royal Palace. The an ornamental gate, help put much

Duna (Danub

imposing and multi-faceted Royal of the Budapest jigsaw into place.

Palace may have become a Royal The main attraction on the inside of
Residence in the 14th century but it the Royal Palace is the National
dates back further to the 13th-cen- Gallery (p 131). In the outer court-
e)

tury Mongol invasion of Hungary. yard, Alajos Stróbl’s King Matthias’s

The Palace took a serious battering Fountain dates back to 1904 and fits
dai alsó

when the Turks were evicted in perfectly in the niche in the Palace
1686, and the first attempts at wall. The ramparts are much older,
rakpart

rebuilding it were much more aus-
tere than the opulence you see
today. Its grand design was literally
made fit for a King—Austria’s Franz
Josef I—by leading local architects
Széchenyii
Clark lánchíd after the Austro-Hungarian Compro-
dám tér mise of 1867. If you alight from the
Budavári funicular right next to the entrance
Sikló
you’re greeted by a statue of the
mythical Magyar bird the Turul,
which looks like it’s about to fly
Magyar
Nemzeti away from all the tourists. The
Galéria
sweeping views down the Danube
Budapesti and over to Pest from the Castle
Történeti
Gardens, which you enter through
Múzeum
and the stretch south of Szent
György tér dates back to Sigismund
of Luxembourg’s rule in the early
15th century. @ 1–2 hr. 16/16A/116
to Dísz tér.
2 Miró Café. This necessarily
colorful tribute to Catalan Surrealist
artist Joan Miró is a fun contrast to
the almost overpowering architec-
ture of the Castle District. Known for
its ice cream, breakfast and light
lunch is also served. Úri utca 30.
At Dísz tér. y 1/201-5573. $$.

. The imposing and multi-faceted Royal Palace.

u.
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09
62
The Best Neighborhood Walks
Ornate altar in St. Matthias Church.
3 ★★★ St. Matthias Church.
Just a stone’s throw away from the
Fisherman’s Bastion lies the mainly
neo-Gothic St. Matthias Church
(Mátyás Templom), which is topped
off by an extraordinarily multi-colored
tiled roof. While King Matthias Corvi-
nus didn’t build the church from
scratch, he did extend and repair the
then 200-year-old Gothic structure in
the 15th century. He also made
good use of it, having two of his
three marriages there. Charles
Robert was the first to be crowned
here in 1308, while Charles IV was the
last in 1916 and indeed the last
Habsburg Monarch. In
preparing for the millen-
nium celebrations in
1896, Frigyes Schulek
hacked away some of
the 15th-century addi-
tions in a rather impres-
sive bid to restore the
church’s original look. 19th-
century artists Károly Lotz
and Bertalan Székely bring
Hungarian legends and his-
tory to life inside. I love
the calm and soft
tones of the inte-
rior, which is also
one of the few
places where the
11:41 PM Page 62
din of tourist chatter dies down, and
the color of the roof gives something
modern (well, it was cutting edge in
1896) to the neo-Gothic visage.
@ 30 min. Szentháromság tér 2.
y 1/489-0716. Admission Ft 700.
Free to pray. Bus 16/16A/116 to
Dísz tér.
4 Equestrian Statue of King
István. Popping up right between
Matthias Church and the Fisher-
man’s Bastion, Hungary’s first
monarch reminds everyone who’s
boss in Hungary’s story. He even
stole King Matthias’s thunder by
putting the first church up here
in 1015. The statue itself is the
work of master sculptor Alajos
Stróbl, but the altarpiece on
which the statue rests is from
Frigyes Schulek’s design,
hence the smooth integra-
tion with its two surround-
ing sights.
5 ★★★ = Fisher-
man’s Bastion. The
seven Disney-like mini
towers might look cus-
tom-built for Snow
White’s troupe, but
the fact that there
Equestrian statue
of King István.
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09
are seven refers rather to the seven
leaders of the Magyar tribes who
galloped in to claim Hungary in 896
AD. This fairytale blend of neo-
Gothic and neo-Romanesque, con-
jured up by Frigyes Schulek, affords
stunning views over to Parliament
and sprawling Pest. The steps that
run down beside it were poorly
guarded when the invading Turks
piled in to seize the Castle.
@ 30 min. Admission Ft 400 to enter
the towers but you can explore the
lower parts for free.
6 = ★★★ Ruszwurm
Cukrászda. Refuel over coffee with
a green marzipan-topped Mátyás
cake at this cute and cozy, still fam-
ily-run Budapest institution (p 37,
bullet !). Szentháromság utca 7.
y 1/375-5284. $–$$.
7 András Hadik’s Equestrian
Statue. Quite why it is that stu-
dents from the nearby Engineering
University consider it good luck
before exams to rub the big brassy
The fairytale towers of the Fisherman’s
Bastion.
11:41 PM Page 63
63
The Castle District
Statue of András Hadik and his lucky
horse.
testicles of this Huszár’s horse is
anybody’s guess, but it’s one of the
few remaining activities that’s free in
the Castle District. Hadik incidentally
was a Slovak who rose to the high
rank of commander in the Austrian
army serving in the Seven Years
War, even taking Berlin and serving
as the protector of Buda Castle.
8 = Cave Hospital and
Bunker. The fascinating subter-
ranean complex of 2,000 sq m/6,560
sq ft runs underneath the Castle and
served as a World War II hospital
and Cold War nuclear shelter. Lovas
út 4c. Admission Ft 3,000.
10am–6pm, closed Mon.
9 = Magdalene Tower. This
large 13th-century Franciscan church
was almost consigned to the history
books by allied bombing in World
War II, but the tower and a Gothic
vaulted window obstinately rise out
of the ghostly ruins thanks to recon-
struction completed in 1997. In the
early days of the Ottoman occupa-
tion, the Turks allowed Christians to
use the church, bringing both Protes-
tants and Catholics to worship here,
but in different parts of the church,
07_697580-ch03.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 64

64
The Best Neighborhood Walks
of course. Later it was converted into
a mosque, returning to its former
use after the Turks were expelled.
Kapisztrán tér.
0 ★★★ Explore the old cob-
bled streets between Tánc-
sics Mihály utca and Tóth
Árpád sétány. These streets,
slightly away from the madding
tourist crowd, hold more fascination
for me than the more famous sights.
Here, you realize that the Castle Dis-
trict isn’t just a museum-piece and
that people do actually live in these
cute houses, many of which date
back to the 19th and 18th centuries,
some earlier. On Táncsics Mihály Great views from the Castle District.
utca, which was once part of the
Jewish quarter, look out for the elab- 1936 (see p 32, bullet 5). At the
orate courtyard of former Eródy square’s center, the fountain, which
mansion at number 7, which is now features a girl protecting a sacred
home to the Music History Institute. light, is a tribute to writer Ferenc
Steeped in history itself, Beethoven Kazinczy and his efforts to develop
once stayed here. On the same the Hungarian language in the 18th
street, you can see houses that century when its usage was far from
have been built on the original universal. Foreigners who are strug-
medieval foundations, such as num- gling with this seemingly impenetra-
ber 10 with its upper niche contain- ble language at least have someone
ing a vase and shell. Fortuna utca to blame. Kazinczy didn’t have an
features charming neo-classical and easy time of it though and was
Baroque houses, while the triangle sentenced to death for his role as a
of houses on Országház utca at Jacobin along with the movement’s
numbers 20, 22 and 5, directly leader Ignác Martinovics, priest of
opposite, feature a Gothic ledge the Magdalene Church. Like the
with arch, a fabulous bay window, Hungarian language, but unlike Mar-
and a stunning gate, respectively. At tinovics, Kazinczy survived. It seems
32 Úri utca, check out at the partly fitting that the domineering National
preserved Gothic sedilia next to Archives building, with its colorfully
the gate. Tóth Árpád sétány skirts tiled Zsolnay roof, overlooks the
around the perimeter of the inner square. Substantially less imposing
Castle District and is great for a walk is the tiny Lutheran church on the
with a view. opposite side of the square. Noted
! ★★ Bécsi kapu tér. The Greek and Roman guru József
Grigely once lived at 7 Bécsi kapu
‘Vienna Gate’ is where the Hungari-
tér, which accounts for the relief fea-
ans finally overpowered the Turks to
turing Pallas Athena and Classical
re-enter and reclaim the Castle in
authors including the likes of Virgil
1686, though the Vienna Gate that
and Socrates. Bécsi kapu tér.
stands here today dates back to just
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 65

4 The Best Shopping

08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 66

66
The Best Shopping
Shopping Best Bets

u.
ras

u.

ede
Ga
Best American Mall Best Food Market

úl
Ny

Ezr
Experience ★★★ Great Market Hall, Vámház
★★ Arena Plaza, Kerepesi út 9 körút 1–3 (p 77)

.
su
(p 78) and ★★ Westend City Cen-

mo
Best Funky Gifts

Sza
ter, Váci út 1–3 (p 78)
★★ Szupernova, Irányi utca 20
Best Art Auction House (p 73) and ★★ Repüló Tehén, Hajós
Cs
ab
a
★★★ Kieselbach, Szent István utca (p 77)
körút 5 (p 71) and ★★★ Virág
Best Handmade Shoes

Vá r
Judit Mú-terem, Falk Miksa utca 30
★★ Vass Shoes, Harris köz 2 (p 76)
(p 72)

Rá
th
Best Hats

Gy
Best Bejing-style Market

őrg
★★ V50 Design Art Studio, Váci u.

y
Experience c u. PÁL
utca 50 (p 73) rin
★ Józsefvárosi Piac, Kóbányai út Lő

h
Best Hungarian Designer

Tót
21–23 (p 76)
★★★ Katti Zoób, Szent István körút Nagy
Best Ceramics
17 (p 73)
★★★ Herend, József Nádor tér 11
(p 73) and ★★★ Zsolnay, Váci utca Best Jewelry

t
nti ú
19–21 (p 73) ★★★ Wladis Galéria és Múterem, Királyh

é
örm
Ug
Falk Miksa utca 13 (p 75) oc
Best for Firewater

sz
sa

Bö
u
★ Magyar Pálinka Háza (House of Best Retro Magyar Sneakers
o rn
Hungarian Pálinka), Rákóczi út 17 ★ Tisza Cipó, Károly körút 1 (p 76) alt
áb
(p 80) and ★★ Zwack Shop, Kiss János
Best Salami MOM
Soroksári út (p 80)
★★ Pick Márkaáruház, Kossuth Csörsz u.
Best Flea Market Lajos tér 9 (p 79)

u.
Gesztenyé

Siraly
★★★ Ecseri Piac, Nagykörösi út Jag kert
Best Wine Shop elló
156 (p 76) út
★★ Bortársaság, Batthyány utca 59 K
Fürj
or Szent István tér 3 (p 80) u .

Handmade footwear at Vass Shoes.

08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 67

67

Shopping Best Bets

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08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 68

68
The Best Shopping
Central Pest Shopping
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69

Shopping Best Bets

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08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 70

70
The Best Shopping
Outer Pest Shopping
Arena Plaza 1 M HŐSÖK TERE 7
Post Office
Ecseri Piac 2 Műcsarnok Közlekedési
Városliget Múzeum M Metro Station
Fakopáncs 3
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 08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 71

71

Budapest Shopping A to Z
Art & Antiques
★★★ Boulevard és Brezsnyev
CENTRAL PEST Cutting-edge paint-
ings and objets d’art at reasonable
prices from fledgling artists with
VANMEZŐ innovative exhibitions opposite.
. Also sells vintage posters. Király
ru
do
An utca 39. (Temporary exhibitions:
m sey
Se Király utca 46.) y 0630/944-5778.
Országos www.bbgaleria.hu. No credit cards.
Földtani
Múzeum Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Tram:
4/6 to Király utca. Map p 68.
Puskás
renc Stadion ★★ Ernst Gallery CENTRAL PEST
Charming gallery dealing in en vogue
gy út Magyar ‘neglected’ local artists; decorative
Sportmúzeum
m and applied arts, plus Baroque,
Biedermeier, Art Nouveau and Art
Deco furniture. Irányi utca 27 (corner
of Cukor utca). y 1/266-4016 or
Aszt
Budapest Shopping A to Z
★ Inda Gallery CENTRAL PEST
Located on arty Király utca but hid-
den away on the second floor of a
townhouse, Inda offers paintings,
installations, and sculptures from a
talented younger generation. Király
utca 34 2/4 (corner of Székely Mihály
utca). y 1/413-1960. www.inda
galeria.hu. MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3
to Deák tér. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
Map p 68.
★★★ Kieselbach Gallery and
Auction House CENTRAL PEST
This prestigious auction house,
which marks the start of Pest’s
gallery-rich Falk Miksa utca, holds the
world record for the auction of a
Hungarian painting at $1.42 million
for a Csontváry, who Picasso referred

1/266-4017. www.ernstgaleria.hu. to as the other great painter of the

alos

AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek 20th century. It also holds exhibi-

Sánd

tere. Map p 68. tions. Szent István körút 5 (corner of

or ú
t

Ernst Gallery for Art Deco furniture and other treasures.

algótarja
ni u.

bányai
út

Golg
ota
u .
da
P ét e
r u.
Lajo
s u.
An
ta l u.
u.

t
örú
ám
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s Ká
yve
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lanetárium
NÉPLIGET
Üllő
i út
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 72

72
The Best Shopping
Falk Miksa utca). y 1/269-3148 or
1/269-3149. www.kieselbach.hu.
AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai
Mari tér. Map p 68.
★★ Nagyházi Galéria CENTRAL
PEST Prominent auction house
offering everything from paintings
and sculpture to furniture, carpets,
objets d’art, jewelry, folk art, and
antiquities. Balaton utca 8 (corner of
Falk Miksa utca). y 1/475-6000 or
1/475-2090. www.nagyhazi.hu. AE,
DC, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari
tér. Map p 68.
★ Pintér Antik CENTRAL PEST
Huge selection of antiques, tradi- Treehugger Dan’s Bookstore & Café.
tional and modern paintings, chan-
deliers, clocks, and sculpture for ★ Treehugger Dan’s Book-
sale that is spread over 1,800 sq store & Café CENTRAL PEST
m/5,900 sq ft. Regular auctions. Falk Choose a used paperback with a
Miksa utca 10 (corner of Markó cup of Fairtrade coffee. Regular
utca). y 1/311-3030. www.pinter readings hosted. Csengery utca 48.
antik.hu. MC,V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai y 1/322-0774. www.treehugger.hu.
Mari tér. Map p 68. No credit cards. Metro: M1 to
Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon.
★★★ Virág Judit Mú-terem
(Branches: Lázár utca 6, Sütó utca 2.)
Gallery and Auction House
Map p 68.
CENTRAL PEST 19th- and 20th-
century Hungarian paintings from
big names in local art, including Ceramics
Munkácsy, Csontváry, and Rippl- ★ Haas és Czjzek CENTRAL PEST
Rónai, along with Art Nouveau Look out for Hollóháza with its funky
ceramics from Zsolnay for sale and Four Seasons design featuring a
auction. Falk Miksa utca 30. woman’s face in each season, as
y 1/312-2071. www.mu-terem.hu. well as plates from Alföldi (that
MC, V. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tér. serve many restaurants) plus
Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Herend and Zsolnay. Bajcsy Zsilin-
Map p 68. szky út 23 (corner of Zichy Jenó
utca). y 1/311-4094. AE, MC, V.
Cards. Metro: M3 to Arany János
Books (English Language)
utca. Map p 68.
★ Bestsellers CENTRAL PEST
Although Bestsellers has plenty of ★★★ Herend CENTRAL PEST
healthy competition these days, its From tasteful and intricate traditional
multi-genre selection of new English items to light and breezy, Herend’s
language books is hard to beat. Also legendary porcelain is always classy,
great for newspapers and magazines. and Queen Victoria was among its
Október 6. utca 11. y 1/312-1295. fans. A national treasure, albeit a
www.bestsellers.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. pricey one. József Nádor tér 11. y 1/
Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. 317-2622. www.herend.com. AE, DC,
Map p 68. MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér.
(Branch: Andrássy út 17.) Map p 68.
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09
Herend Village Pottery BUDA
More cute and colorful, easy-going
country-style designs from Hun-
gary’s renowned ceramics pro-
ducer—still handmade—without
breaking the bank. Bem rakpart 37
(between Vitéz utca and Csalogány
utca). y 1/356-7899. www.herend
majolika.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M2
to Batthyány tér. Map p 67.
★★★ Zsolnay CENTRAL PEST
Zsolnay’s colorful and super-
durable pyrogranite tiles adorn
the roofs of some of Budapest’s
most spectacular buildings. Its iri-
descent eosin technology also
makes unique ceramics. Váci
utca 19–21 (corner of Párizsi
utca). y 1/266-6305. MC, V.
Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere.
Map p 68.
Design
★ Forma Bolt CEN-
TRAL PEST You never
know when a plastic
duck or frog-shaped
bottle opener will come in
handy. Come here for these
and other wacky items.
Unique ceramics
Ferenciek tere 4. y 1/266-
from Zsolnay.
5053. www.forma.co.hu. MC,
V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek
tere. Map p 68.
★★ Gepetto CENTRAL PEST
International award- winning, sleek
minimalist interior design from sofas
and shelves to kitchen furniture and
lamps . Also some objects like the
award-winning egg holder, should
you wish to add a unique touch of
authentic contemporary Budapest
design to your home. Katona József
utca 15. y 1/270-0107. www.
gepetto.hu. No credit cards. Metro:
M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyu-
gati pu. Map p 68.
★★ Szupernova CENTRAL PEST
Fun and colorful contemporary and
retro interior design objects from
11:41 PM Page 73
73
Budapest Shopping A to Z
Hungarian and international design-
ers. Look out for the groovy tin
robots, plastic rabbits, and golden
ducks. Downstairs from Eclectick.
Irányi utca 20. y 0620/828-9327.
www.szupernova.hu. MC, V. Metro:
M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Fashion—Hats
★★ V50 Design Art Studio
CENTRAL PEST Not quite as dar-
ing as Philip Treacy, but Valéria
Fazekas’s designer hats are
wearable yet guaranteed to
turn heads. Look out for her
city-themed collection. Váci
utca 50. y 1/ 3375-320. No
credit cards. Metro: M3 to Fer-
enciek tere. (Branch: Belgrád
rakpart 16.) Map p 68.
Fashion—Hungar-
ian Designers
★★ Eclectick
CENTRAL PEST Funky,
cool but playful clothes
and accessories from
Eclectick, plus other Hun-
garian labels like Aqua-
nauta, Camou, Heart and
Roll, Red Aster, PUCC, and
Kriszta Marosi. Irányi utca
20 (corner of Károlyi Mihály
utca). y 1/266-3341. www.eclectick.
MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere.
Map p 68.
Herczeg CENTRAL PEST With a
bit of a rock ‘n’ roll feel and a touch
of metrosexuality to it, Zoltán Her-
czeg’s checked and torn trousers,
sleeveless shirts, and printed T-shirts
are for guys who want to turn heads.
Teréz körút 35. y 0620/973-0443.
No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Nyu-
gati pu. M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to
Oktogon. Map p 68.
★★★ Katti Zoób CENTRAL PEST
Internationally acclaimed Katti Zoób
creates flowing and classy feminine
designs from top Italian fabrics, as
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM
74
The Best Shopping
well as distinctive jewelry and acces-
sories using Zsolnay ceramics. Lacy
and embroidered fine details appear
in her haute couture range. Szent
István körút 17. y 1/312-1865.
www.kattizoob.hu. MC, V. Metro: M3
to Nyugati pu. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai
Mari tér. Map p 68.
Látomás CENTRAL PEST Upcom-
ing designers like Kati Nádasdi,
Zuppa, Lollypopp, and Balkán Tangó
at bargain prices, although you might
find yourself wading through some
garish items before finding a gem.
Dohány utca 16–18. y 1/266-5052.
www.latomas.hu. MC, V. Metro: M2
to Astoria. Tram: 47/49. Map p 68.
★ Naray Tamas CENTRAL PEST
All that glitters is not gold in this
Francophile designer Tamás Náray’s
chichi showroom in the Ybl Palace.
Perhaps not using the best fabric
expected of a famous designer
you might just stumble upon the
dress of your life. Károlyi Mihály
utca 12. y 1/266-2473. www.naray
company.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3
to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
★ Retrock Deluxe CENTRAL PEST
A turn-of-the-century salon turned
into a madhouse of crazy works by
young Hungarian designers. Brand
Colorful Hungarian design at Eclectick.
Page 74
names like Nanushka, Use Unused,
Tamara Barnuff, Je Suiss Belle,
Anh Tuan. Henszlman Imre utca 1.
y 0630/556-2814. No credit cards.
Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map
p 68.
★★ Sine Nomine CENTRAL PEST
A shop showcasing talented young
Hungarian designers exuding as
much taste as the feminine dresses,
beautiful knitwear, and accessories.
Andrássy út 57 (between Eötvös and
Csengery utca). y 0620/959-9444.
MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér
or Oktogon. Map p 68.
★★ Vasseva CENTRAL PEST A
cute little shop on a side street off
Liszt Ferenc tér selling Éva Vass’s
creations and interior décor items.
Original ideas are combined with
interesting materials, and the result
is wearable clothes but with the
edge you would expect from a cos-
tume designer, stylist, and artist.
Paulay Ede utca 67. y 1/342-8159.
No credit cards. Metro: M1 to Okto-
gon. Tram: 4/6. Map p 68.
Fashion—International
Designers
★★ Byblos—Fashion Street
CENTRAL PEST Film producer
Andy Vajna opened this exclusive
600 sq m/1,970 sq ft shop in 2007
selling Byblos, Byblos Blu, and some
Rocco Barocco clothes and acces-
sories. Deák Ferenc utca 17 (corner
of Bécsi utca). y 1/337-1908. AE,
MC,V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér.
Map p 68.
Designer Outlet BUDA Quality
never goes out of fashion even if it’s
a few seasons behind. Two hundred
new items arrive every Thursday
from the likes of Ralph Lauren,
DKNY, Roberto Cavalli, and Mark
Jacobs at approaching bargain
prices. Lövóház utca 12 (Fény utca
Piac). y 1/345-4133. AE, M, V.
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09
Drop by Iguana for Secondhand clothes
and accessories.
Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6
to Széna tér. Map p 67.
★★★ Heaven Store CENTRAL
PEST The first high-flying multi-
brand store in Budapest offering
personal appointments and a good
selection of brands including
Patrizia Pepe, Replay, Chloé, G-Star
Raw, and Stella McCartney among
others. Fehérhajó utca 12–14.
y 1/266-8335. www.heavenstore.
hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3
to Deák tér. Map p 68.
★★ Louis Vuitton CENTRAL PEST
Just a few steps away from the
opera house this exclusive shop
offers a stunning collection of bags
and suitcases for those who know
the difference between a real
and a fake LV bag. Andrássy út 24.
y 1/373-0487. AE, DC, MC, V.
Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 68.
★★★ Principe Divat Szalon
CENTRAL PEST A good selection
of the latest collection of luxury
brands such as Dolce & Gabbana,
John Galliano, Just Cavalli, and Ferre.
Plus, if you’re lucky, you might find
11:41 PM Page 75
75
Budapest Shopping A to Z
something on sale. Váci utca 50
(corner of Nyári Pál utca). y 1/318-
1119. www.principe.hu. AE, M, V.
Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map
p 68.
Fashion—Jewelry
★★ Varga Design CENTRAL PEST
Handmade jewelry based on Miklós
Varga’s patented approach to imi-
tate the image of sun reflecting on
dewdrops collecting on a cobweb.
Like a spider’s web, each item is
unique. Haris Köz 6. y 1/318-4089.
www.vargadesign.hu. AE, DC, MC, V.
Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map
p 68.
★★★ Wladis Galéria és
Múterem CENTRAL PEST Peter
Vladimir’s original jewelry reflects
traditional and ancient designs.
Chunky but classy sculpted pieces
made from quality silver with rings
starting from around Ft 20,000,
necklaces about Ft 30,000. Falk
Miksa utca 13 (corner of Balaton
utca). y 1/354-0834. www.wladis
galeria.hu. MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to
Jászai Mari tér. Map p 68.
Fashion—Secondhand
Ciánkáli OUTER BUDA The
largest stock of retro vintage
clothes is quite a way from down-
town but you’re sure to find some-
thing that will still set contemporary
pulses racing. Repülótéri út 6. 8/D.
y 0630/456-7018. www.majomke
trec.hu. MC, V. Tram: 41 to
Repülótér. Map p 67.
Iguana CENTRAL PEST If it’s a
Jesus or Elvis T-shirt you’re missing,
pop in to Iguana. Mainly second-
hand clothes, shoes, and retro
accessories for sale. Krúdy Gyula
utca 9. y 1/317-1627. www.iguana
retro.hu. No credit cards. Metro: M3
to Kálvin tér. Tram: 4/6. (Branch:
Tompa utca 1. y 1/215-3475.)
Map p 70.
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09
76
The Best Shopping
Fashion—Shoes
★★ Bizanc Boutique CENTRAL
PEST The best assortment of the
season’s designer shoes for men and
women from Jimmy Choo, John Rich-
mond, Moschino, Anna Sui, Giuseppe
Zanotti, GML, and more, with hand-
bags to match. Fur and leather coats,
too. Váci utca 9. y 1/317-8368. AE,
MC, V . Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér.
M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 68.
★ Tisza Cipó CENTRAL PEST
Retro sneakers with the trademark
‘T’ on each design from Hungary’s
very own casual shoemaker. Also,
look out for funky tops and jackets.
There’s another store in the West-
end shopping mall (see p 78).
Károly körút 1 (corner of Rákóczi út).
y 1/266-3055. www.tiszacipo.hu.
AE, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
Tram: 47/49 to Astoria. Map p 68.
★★ Vass Shoes CENTRAL PEST
Handmade shoes that fit perfectly,
boast amazing quality of material
and precise craftsmanship. László
Vass has managed to turn the old
traditional shoemaking profession
into a modern business. Harris köz
2. y 1/318-2375. www.vass-cipo.hu.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Feren-
ciek tere. Map p 68.
Bric-a-brac at Ecseri Piac flea market.
11:41 PM Page 76
Flea Markets
★★★ Ecseri Piac OUTER PEST
Remarkable flea market packed with
some quality antiques and no end of
Socialist-era bric-à-brac. Paintings,
furniture, soda siphons, rocking
horses, Zsolnay ceramics, old
motorbikes, even antique BMW bub-
ble cars: it’s all there. Bargaining
expected. Nagykörösi út 156.
y 1/348-3200. Bus: 54 to Alvinc
utca. Map p 70.
★ Józsefvárosi Piac OUTER PEST
While the bottom is likely to fall out
of the jeans you buy quicker than it
takes you to walk around this
sprawling Chinese market, it feels
pretty close to being in China. Good
Chinese food. Kóbányai út 21–23.
y 1/313-8890. Tram: 28 to Orczy
tér. Map p 70.
★ PECSA Flea Market OUTER
PEST With the abundance of fake
brands, chunky transistor radios,
Russian dolls, medals, and so on, I
feel momentarily transported back
to pre-1989 Budapest when I visit
this market. Open mornings at the
weekend. Zichy Mihály utca.
y 1/363-3730. Metro: M1 to
Széchenyi fürdó. Map p 70.
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09
Flowers
★★ Arioso CENTRAL PEST
Creative arrangements verging on
designer, and just the ticket if you’ve
been invited to dinner. Much more
than flowers, Arioso is also an inte-
rior designer. Király utca 9. y 1/266-
3555. www.arioso.hu. Closed first 3
weeks of Aug. AE, MC, V.
Metro: M1/M2/M3 to
Deák tér. Map p 68.
Folk Art
★ Folkart Cen-
trum CENTRAL
PEST Folk art
products includ-
ing embroidered
tablecloths, painted
dolls, and ceramics
for those who don’t want
to haggle in return for guar- Folkart Centrum.
anteed quality from serious
artisans. Váci utca 58. y 1/
318-4697. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3
to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Katalin Hampel CENTRAL PEST
Hungarian and European folk cos-
tumes adapted ‘for the modern
woman’, although some outfits, as
well as the menswear, are more the
preserve of period ballgoers. Királyi
Pál utca 11. y 0620/597-0893. No
credit cards. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér.
Map p 68.
Food Markets
★ Bio Market BUDA Taste just
how fresh Hungarian fruit and veg
can be at this Saturday morning
organic produce extravaganza that
runs from 6am to noon or 1pm
should there be enough shoppers.
The fruit juices are sublime. Csörsz
utca 18. y 1/214-7005. No credit
cards. Tram: 61 to Csörsz utca.
Map p 67.
★ Fény utca piac BUDA Made
from 1970s-style iron and girders,
11:41 PM Page 77
77
Budapest Shopping A to Z
this neighborhood market lacks the
fin-de-siècle charm of some of its
peers, but makes up for it in the
range of Hungarian agricultural pro-
duce. For fine cheese, hams, and
salami head to the top level.
Lövóház utca 12. y 1/345-4101.
Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6
to Széna tér. Map p 67.
★★★ Great Mar-
ket Hall CENTRAL
PEST Aside
from the archi-
tecture (see
p 17, bullet 3)
this is a great
place to pick up
‘Hungaricums’ like
powdered paprika,
tubes of paprika
paste, tins of chestnut
puree, and goose liver.
Plenty of painted folk art
and tablecloths, too. Vámház körút
1–3. y 1/366-3300. Credit cards not
widely used. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fóvám
tér. Map p 68.
Funky Gifts
★★ Repüló Tehén (Flying
Cow) CENTRAL PEST The ‘Flying
Cow’ is jammed with zany gifts from
seriously cool pink grinning Bud-
dhas to Geisha ashtrays, funky
fridge magnets, Playboy bottle
openers, and cheeky ‘naked’ mugs.
Hajós utca 19. y 0620/204-5574.
www.repulotehen.hu. MC, V. Metro:
M1 to Opera. (Branch: Mammut
Shopping Mall.) Map p 68.
★ Volt Bolt CENTRAL PEST
Cool T-shirts and accessories from
the organizers of the Sziget Festival,
Budapest’s mega music festival,
many of which relate to the Sziget
or other festivals. Klauzál tér 14
(corner of Akácfa utca). y 0620/
385-0827. www.voltbolt.hu. MC, V.
Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Map p 68.
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09
78
The Best Shopping
Malls
★★ = Arena Plaza OUTER
PEST Just when Budapest seemed
to reach saturation point with mega
malls, along came Arena Plaza with
more space and brands than any-
body else, plus the first IMAX cin-
ema in Hungary, replete with VIP
booths. Kerepesi út 9. y 1/880-
7000. www.arenaplaza.hu. Metro:
M2 to Keleti Pu or Stadionok.
Map p 70.
★ = Mammut BUDA Divided
into two main parts: Mammut 1 and
2, Mammut, i.e. mammoth, never
gets too overwhelming in propor-
tions and is more easy-going than
Westend (see below) but still packed
with shops. The roof level of Mam-
mut 2 is home to a Gold’s Gym.
Lövóház utca 2–6. y 1/345-8020.
www.mammut.hu. Metro: M2 to
Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér.
Map p 67.
★★ = MOM Park BUDA Spa-
cious and modern mall, home to the
only Budapest branch of high-end
children’s clothes specialist Jacadi,
gourmet food shops, popular
Italian restaurant Dallello, and the
Bavarian Paulaner Brauhaus beer
hall (see p 119). Alkotás utca 53.
y 1/487-5500. www.mompark.hu.
Tram: 61 to MOM Park. Map p 67.
Fresh Hungarian fruit at the Bio Market.
11:41 PM Page 78
★★ = Westend City Center
CENTRAL PEST You could be
fooled into thinking you’re in a big
American mall here—that is until
sub-standard Hungarian service
reminds you you’re in Hungary. Busy
and popular with a huge number of
Hungarian and international brands
to choose from. Váci út 1–3.
y 1/238-7777. www.westend.hu.
Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6
to Nyugati pu. Map p 68.
Music
★★ Wave CENTRAL PEST Run by
an affable music lover, who I often
run into at gigs, Wave is stacked
with Hungarian and international
alternative, indie, dance, ethno, and
jazz CDs, DVDs, and LPs that are
hard to find elsewhere. Révay utca
4. y 1/331-0781. No credit cards.
Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Map
p 68.
Perfumes
★★ Le Parfum CENTRAL PEST
Custom-made fragrances from the
philosophical and talented French-
educated perfumer Zsolt Zólyomi.
Also, limited edition high-end per-
fumes from the likes of Burberry,
Bottega Veneta, and Clive Christian.
Cukor utca 1. y 0630/470-0248. No
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79

Jewish gifts and art at Judaica Galéria.
credit cards. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek
tere. Map p 68.
Religious
Ecclesia CENTRAL PEST Next to
a pretty Franciscan church, this is
the place to come for religious
objects and hand-painted religious
icons from Hungary and further
east. Ferenciek tere 7. y 1/317-
3061. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek
tere. Map p 68.
★★ Judaica Galéria CENTRAL
PEST Teddy bears wearing kippas
(skullcaps), Dead Sea beauty treat-
ments, and recipe books feature
among the eclectic Jewish gift
items. It also serves as a serious
Jewish arts gallery and auction
house. Wesselényi utca 13. y 1/
267-8502. MC, V. Metro: M2 to
Astoria. Map p 68.
Budapest Shopping A to Z
back home. Also good for Magyar
specialties. Impressive wine
selection. Balassi Bálint utca 7.
y 1/373-0028. www.culinaris.hu.
AE, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai
Mari tér. Branches: Hunyadi tér 3 &
Perc utca 8. Map p 68.
★★ Pick Márkaáruház CENTRAL
PEST Although you’ll see Pick’s
definitive téliszalámi ‘winter’ salami
all over town, this shop stocks many
other delicious Pick salamis, some
spicy others smooth, and other
meat products. Cafeteria upstairs.
Kossuth Lajos tér 9. y 1/331-7783.
No credit cards. Metro: M2 to
Kossuth Lajos tér. Tram: 2 to Kossuth
Lajos tér. Map p 68.
★ T. Nagy Tamás Cheese
Shop CENTRAL PEST Outstanding
ensemble of Hungarian and interna-
tional cheeses, particularly French.
Although Hungary is less renowned
for cheese, look out for the excel-
lent local goat cheese. Gerlóczy utca
3. y 1/317-4268. MC, V. Metro:
M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 68.
Culinaris for international foodstuffs.

Specialty Foods
★★ Culinaris CENTRAL PEST
Packed out with hungry expats rel-
ishing the range of international
foodstuffs that they take for granted
08_697580-ch04.qxp 2/5/09 11:41 PM Page 80

80
The Best Shopping
Toys Pálinka fruit brandy bottles.
★★★ Fakopáncs
CENTRAL PEST Cre- 1/341-0646. www.bork
ative Hungarian-made ereskedes.hu. MC, V. Metro:
wooden toys to make M2 to Astoria. Tram: 47/49 to
kids think beyond the Astoria. Map p 68.
realm of the X-box
★ Magyar Pálinka
and Barbie doll.
Háza (House of
Excellent for gifts
Hungarian Pálinka)
and with a flaw-
CENTRAL PEST Com-
less safety record,
prehensive collection of
too. József körút
Hungary’s fruit brandy
50. y 1/333-
known as Pálinka, now
1866. www.
an EU-protected name.
fakopancs.com.
Pálinka ranges from the
No credit cards.
seriously fiery to the soft
Tram: 4 or 6 to
and fruity. Rákóczi út 17.
Baross utca. (Branches
inc. Baross utca 46.) Map
y 1/338-4219. MC, V. Metro: M2 to
Blaha Lujza tér. Map p 68.
p 70.
★ Monarchia CENTRAL PEST
★★ Kétmackó Játékgaléria
Monarchia sells its own range of
CENTRAL PEST Old-fashioned pup-
wines made in Eger by the talented
pets and dolls, wooden toys, and
winemaker Tamás Pók that are
game-themed paintings are on sale
exported to the US. Also represents
along with skill-enhancing activity
Hungarian and boutique interna-
and board games at the ‘Two Bears
tional wineries. Kinizsi utca 30–36.
Toy Gallery’. Magyar utca 18.
y 1/456-9898. www.monarchia
y 1/266-0928. www.ketmacko.hu. borok.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to
No credit cards. Metro: M2 to
Ferenc körút. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc
Astoria. Map p 68.
körút. Map p 70.

Wine & Spirits Présház CENTRAL PEST A wine

★★ Bortársaság (Wine Soci- shop on touristy Váci utca would
normally make me wary, but this is a
ety) BUDA Strong selection of
good one, selling a wide range of
Hungarian wines from most Hungar-
Hungarian wines plus some vintages
ian regions with knowledgeable staff
of top labels, long since sold out
on hand. Other branches include
elsewhere. Váci utca 10. y 1/266-
one opposite St. Stephen’s Basilica
1100. www.preshaz.hu. MC, V.
at Szent István tér 3. Batthyány
Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Map
utca 59. y 1/212-2569. www.
p 68.
bortarsasag.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro:
M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6 to ★★ Zwack Shop OUTER PEST
Széna tér. Map p 67. Zwack makes the ubiquitous bitter
★★ In Vino Veritas CENTRAL Hungarian liqueur Unicum that you’ll
either love or hate. I prefer the deli-
PEST More old-fashioned looking
ciously fruity Nemes Pálinka (fruit
than the slick Bortársaság (see
brandy) range and its boutique wine
above), Veritas also represents an
range. Soroksári út 26. y 1/476-
impressive batch of quality-driven
2383. www.zwack.hu. AE, MC, V.
Hungarian winemakers. Dohány
Tram: 2 to Haller utca. Map p 70.
utca 58–62. y 1/341-3174 or
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 81

5 The Best of the

Outdoors
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 82

82
The Best of the Outdoors
City Park

.
nc u

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0 1/4 mi
6 Vajdahunyad Castle Moat
7 Time Wheel 0 0.25 km
 09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 83

83

City Park
T his oasis of green is flanked by a multitude of old-fash-
ioned attractions including a circus, a zoo, and an amusement
park that features Europe’s longest wooden rollercoaster that will
remind Western travelers of the more innocent time they grew up in.
START: M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó. All the points of interest are served by
the Széchenyi Fürdó metro station but everything is also accessible
from the Heroes Square (Hósök tere) metro station.

u.
zs ár
ldi
Bo
r vát u.
Ho ai
ro z sm
Do
MEXIKÓI ÚT
Me
xik
ó
iú
t
kö

Fra
rút

nc
ia
út

edési
um

The old-style Vidámpark.

Ilk
au
.
1 ★★★ = Circus. Lions, körút 12/a. y 1/343-8300. www.
tigers, and bears, and elephants, maciva.hu. Admission Ft 1,200–
Já
vo

too. However, this 120-year-old Ft 2,400. Performances Wed–Sun

ru
Ste

.
fán

Budapest institution seeks to (excluding Sep). More performances

ia
út

at weekends.
yG

embrace the age of animal rights

éz
au

with an increasing reliance on its tal- 2 ★★★ = Vidámpark

.

ented human performers. Three dif- (Amusement Park). Passing by, it

ó ferent troupes feature classic circus looks a sorry excuse for an amuse-
út

performances from clowns, acro-

oly

ment park but step in and you’re

ök
Józ

bats, trapeze artists, and tightrope

Th

transported back to a charming,

se
f u.

walkers. @ 1 hr 30 min. Állatkerti old-fashioned world of well-kept and

Kisstadion

zei út

Classic Courtyards—Behind the

Dó z
City’s Grand Façades
sa Gyö
rgy út
As you’re walking around the downtown do look out for open
doorways of the magnificent buildings and have a peek in. Each of
Budapest’s stunning Habsburg-era townhouses, and there are many,
tell their own story on the inside where they really come to life. If you
get stuck, there’s always a button to press that lets you out.
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 84

84
The Best of the Outdoors
Hidden City Squares
While peace and quiet is harder to find in Pest than it is in leafy
Buda, you don’t have to trek out to City Park or Margaret Island to
experience what is known as ‘park life’ as a secluded spot is often
never more than a few corners away. The cute park at Honvéd tér
with its trimmed lawn and neat flowerbeds is tucked away close to
the busy Pest thoroughfare of Szent István körút but is totally peace-
ful, bar the sounds of kids playing. There’s also concrete ping-pong
tables with iron nets that may be an unglamorous hangover from
Communism but they can stand all weather and make for a good
game. You’ll run into English speakers here and also on the play-
grounds of Szabadság tér. Although Szabadság tér, literally Free-
dom Square, may be synonymous with the violence after the riots of
2006 (see p 47, bullet 3) and repression in the form of the Soviet
War Memorial, this big open space, surrounded by colossal build-
ings that serve to block out the bustle, is a superbly relaxing place
and you can contemplate the awesome aspect of the city’s bigger-
than-thou architecture. Still on the Pest side, Károly kert also belies
its central location close to hectic Astoria, transcending metropoli-
tan modernity and transporting you back to Budapest’s early 20th-
century heyday. Step through the wrought-iron gate and feel at the
center of a living bastion of old-world charm.

restored attractions. Among the playgrounds for younger infants

star attractions is the centegenarian
wooden merry-go-round, which
churns out swirlingly authentic
Wurlitzer music—you have to ride
the horses to keep the old girl mov-
ing. Budapest’s ‘Happy Park’ boasts
the longest wooden rollercoaster in
Europe, which is nice to ride com-
pared with more modern ver-
sions. The laser dodgems
show that the park is not
entirely stuck in the past.
Go-karting costs an extra
Ft 600 a go. Take tod-
dlers of 3 and under
to the mini amuse-
ment park that’s
attached.
You’ll find
within the City Park. It also has an
interesting pay-according-to-height
entry policy. @ 2–3 hr. Állatkerti
körút 14–16. y 1/363-8310. www.
vidampark.hu. Ft 3,900 for people
over 140cm, 100cm–140cm Ft 2,900,
free for under 100cm. Daily Jun &
Aug 10am–8pm, May–Sep 11am–
7pm, mid-Mar–Oct 12am–6pm.
Closed early Nov–mid-Mar.
3 ★★★ =
Városligeti Mújég-
pálya (City Park Ice
Rink). As the chill of
winter hits, the fairy-
tale atmosphere of
the ice rink, with
a pavilion on
one side and the

Monkey about at the zoo.

09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 85

85

City Park
Rowing on Vajdahunyad Castle Moat.

Vajdahunyad Castle (p 13, bullet 2)

on the other, keeps the locals coming 5 Városligeti Sörsátor. An old-
fashioned beer tent bang in the
to the City Park. Gliding along the
right place, in the middle of the
ice—or, if you’re anything like me,
park, just when you need it. Ideal
falling over—is quite an experience
for a sausage (kolbász), pretzels
with the Castle looming above. No
(perec), or the savory scone known
need to worry about global warm-
as pogácsa. For a more Boho set-
ing here, just remember to wrap up
ting head to Kertem (see p 123).
well. @ 2 hr. Olof Palme sétány 5.
Városligeti Sétány. y 1/363-1904. $.
y 1/364-0013. www.mujegpalya.hu.
Ft 700 per session weekdays, Ft 970
on weekends. Mon–Fri 9am–1pm,
6 = Row in the Vajdahun-
4pm–8pm. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.
yad Castle Moat. It may be a
4 = ★★ Állatkert (Zoo). folly and an eclectic mix of Hungar-
The first time I came here in the ian architectural styles across the
1990s I felt indignant when I saw the ages, but the Vajdahunyad Castle
cramped conditions and the sorry- sure makes an attractive backdrop
looking, stir-crazy elephants. How- for a spot of easy rowing. Pick up a
ever, credit where credit’s due, this boat opposite the Castle entrance.
place has become much more ani- @ 30 min–1 hr. No phone. Ft 700
mal-friendly and is a nice place to 1
⁄2 hr, Ft 1,300 1 hr.
bring the family to monkey about.
7 = Idókerék (Time
I’m fascinated with the big rock that
Wheel). Unveiled as Hungary
looks just like the one out of Spiel-
entered a new epoch in joining the
berg’s Close Encounters and the
EU on May 1, 2004, public interest in
domain of gorillas and orangutans.
this, one of the world’s largest hour-
Kids will also love the petting zoo.
glasses, has dwindled. However, this
The Art Nouveau entrance, with its
clock isn’t built for short-term hype.
Oriental and Indian aspects and fine
It doesn’t actually tell the time but it
animal carvings and sculptures, is a
is an impressive fusion of ancient
suitably impressive teaser for what’s
techniques and state-of-the-art tech-
inside. @ 2 hr. Állatkerti körút 6–12.
nology that’s built to last the rav-
y 1/273-4900. www.zoobudapest. ages of time. Behind the Múcsarnok.
com. Admission Ft 1,690. 9am–7pm
in summer. 9am–6pm in winter.
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 86

86
The Best of the Outdoors
Buda Hills

Sz
ALSÓ-KECSKE-HEGY

épv
397m

Hűv

ölg
VADASKERTI-HEGY yi ú
t

ösvölg
371m SZÉPVÖLGY
HŰVÖSVÖLGY KECSKE-HEGY
N ag VÁ. HŰVÖSVÖLGY
ykov 384m
ácsi
út yi út NYÉK
t LÁTÓ-HEGY
d or ú 376m
Kon
HÁRSHEGY VÁ.
LIPÓTMEZŐ
NAGY-HÁRS-HEGY VASKAPU-HEGY
454m 299m CSATÁRKA
Törö
Országos Pszichiátriai k
Bartók Béla vész ú
és Neurológiai Intézet t
SZÉPJUHÁSZNÉ VÁ. Emlékház
Hű
vö Ferenc-hegyi-
barlang
KURUCLES
s vö
lg
Szé
yi Bim
he bó
út
rú út
t
JÁNOS-HEGY Bu d
527m akesz PASARÉT

Pa
i út SZÉPILONA

sar
.

éti
3

u
n

út
Áro
ú Sz or
t

4 Zugligeti Sza
G áb
rva Vir
ilá
JÁNOS- sG á
g
VIRÁNYOS ábo nyos
yi
HEGY VÁ.
E
rzs
rú út
t
eb
Jánosheg ú

et

ZUGLIGET
fa s

Kútvölgy
i út Kútvölgyi út
or
VÁROSMAJOR
KÚTVÖLGY Szt. János VÁ
yi

2 t Korház
Alkony út

1
ERDEI ISKOLA SZT.
VIRÁGVÖLGY VÁ. ESZE ORGONÁS JÁNOS
TAMAS Zso
GYÖNGYVIRÁG ÚT KÓRHÁZ
Nor ISKOLA lna
MEREDEK-CSÚCS maf u.
402m aú
t
NORMAFA V. M.
VÁROSKÚT u.
Eötv Diana
ó s út ORBÁNHEGY
r u.

CSILLEBÉRC VÁ. SVÁBHEGY

Hangya u.

Fode

MŰVÉSZ ÚT
Mikl út

SZÉCHENYI-HEGY VÁ.
ós

SZÉCHENYI-
HEGY VÁ.
e
heg
Pin

T
oly
u.

u. MÁRTONHEGY
ty

nk
rök

Ko
Bü

CSILLEBÉRC
Denev

út
ér út

i
lgy

BUDAÖRSI-HEGY
tvö

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Hé

Ed
Néme

vi
v

Ir h temető
irá

ás u Illé
gú

. s út
t

Cog Wheel Railway Irh

ás
Children’s Railway áro 0 750 yards
k
Chairlift 0 750 m

1 Cog Wheel Railway 3 János-hegy

2 Children’s Railway 4 Libegő

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87

Buda Hills
B udapest is hardly a small city and has a population of
around 2 million. However, I love the fact that you get up to
the fresh air of the hills within minutes. This ‘best of the hills’ route
SKE-HEGY
provides a sampler but I encourage you to jump off wherever the
7m mood takes you. START: Tram 56 to Városmajor to connect with the
PVÖLGY Cog Wheel Railway to start your ascent.

1 = Ride the Fogaskerekú Socialist Prime Minister, Ferenc

(Cog Wheel Railway). The route
to the Buda Hills is gradual but the
ÁRKA feeling of being dragged up at an
angle as the city starts to give way to
ész
út more and more green certainly sets
nc-hegyi- the tone. Take the cog to Széchenyi
barlang
hegy where you can connect with
the Children’s Railway (bullet 2) by
t
walking along Golfpálya utca. Tram:
SARÉT 56 to Városmajor. The service now
. runs under the number 60 according
u
Gyurcsány. Today children still run
the show, although like in the past,
I’m relieved to know that adults actu-
ally drive the trains and do the signal-
ing. However, I do find it reassuring
how seriously these kids take their
jobs. It’s a great way of traversing the
Buda Hills and I recommend you just
jump off wherever takes your fancy;
otherwise continue to János hegy. Be
warned, don’t mess with these kids,

n
r Áro to the Budapest Public Transport they’re stricter than adults—who
bo
Gá Company. Runs from 5am–11:10pm. knows what they’ll do if you don’t
buy a ticket. A steam engine runs at
2 = ★★★ Gyermekvasút
weekends (p 39, bullet 3). @ 17 min
et

(Children’s Railway). There’s

fa s
or

VÁROSMAJOR to János hegy. Széchenyi hegy. Ft 450

os VÁ nothing like running a railway for
one way.
áz instilling discipline and that was the
SZT. philosophy behind the founding of 3 = ★★ János-hegy.
NÁS JÁNOS
KÓRHÁZ this narrow gauge railway, once run Budapest’s highest point is topped
au by pioneers, a kind of Communist off by the Erzsébet lookout tower.
.
youth initiative. Included among the It’s the work of that man Schulek
ranks of the pioneers is the current again, he of Fisherman’s Bastion
HEGY (p 62) fame and renovator of St.
r u.

Ride the Cog Wheel Railway. Matthias (p 62), and you’ll certainly
Fode

see his signatory dreaminess here.

@ 30 min.
4 ★★ Libegó. Hang on and be
u.

Y
rök

whisked down 262m/860ft from

Bü

János hegy through the forest by

út

this clunky but cool chairlift.

i
lgy
tvö

ti Although it’s not specifically a ski

Néme

lift, crafty locals will take their skis

up to the top on it when there’s
snow. Alternatively, you could also
ascend this way to reach János hegy
from the terminus at Zugligeti út 97.
@ 15 min. y 1/391-0352. Ft 500
one way. Bus: 155 to Zugligeti út.
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 88

88
The Best of the Outdoors
Margaret Island
H ÁRPÁD HÍD
0 1/4 mi

0 0.25 km
Árpád
Post Office híd

tja
elem ú
H HÉV Station

part
P erc u
.
Boat Pier

lsó rak
ejed
u.

ád f
os

ai a
Laj

Árp Kenélőkút 8

Bud
Pacsirtamezo u.

. Tím
Tímár u ár u
. 7 Japánkert
H TÍMÁR UTCA
Viador u. Danubius Health Spa
Resort Margitsziget 4
Római Katonai
s u.

Amifiteátrum
Lajo

ny
útja

étá

Premontrei
ds

templom
lem

art

re
akp
Bokor u.

Alf
jede

j ós
só r

Víztorony 6
d fe

Domonkos
Ha
ai al

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Á rp á

Bud

romjai

.u
Palatinus
4

fürdő
Csemete u.

strand-fürdő

Nép
Révé
sz u.
.
Lajos u

H SZÉPVÖLGYI
ÚT

Margitsziget
útja

Dráv
e)
art

a u.
Bud jedelem

anub
akp

Ferences
só r

templom romjai Tisza

a (D

at u.

u.
d fe
ai al

Karp
Dun
Árpá

Vág
u.

Tata
Bess j u.
enye
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i u.
art
rakp

út
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onyi

Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti

4 sportuszoda Gog
ti

Pozs

ol u.
Pes

u.
Gyula
at u.

u.

Ipoly
ónia

u.
Karp

edűs
Pann
Hajós Alfred s

Heg

3
Újlaki ra

1 Sziget Klub
étány

Centenariumi
2
emlékmű
kpart

2 Centenary Monument
3 Musical Fountain
a rt

4 Bathing
rakp

1
yi ú

5 Abbey Ruins
esti

son
Újp

.
at u

6 Watertower
Poz

MARGIT
H Kat
Karp

HÍD o na J 7 Japanese Garden

Margit ózs
ef u
híd Jászai . 8 Musical Well
Mari tér
 09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 89

89

Margaret Island
L eafy Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is a haven for morning
runners and midnight lovers. Located minutes from the down-
town in the middle of the mighty Danube between Buda and Pest,
locals come to escape the traffic and bustle of the city. It has also
become an increasingly good place to party, now that an array of
fun summer outdoor venues have sprung up. What would saintly
Princess Margit (Margaret)—given to God by her father, Béla IV, for
sparing his country from the Mongols—make of all the hedonism on
her hallowed island? While people flock here in summer, I find it much
more tranquil and idyllic in the winter months, especially when fresh
snow falls. START: Tram 4/6 to Margitsziget or take bus 26 which stops
at several points on the island and you can hop on and off as you wish.

1 ★★ Sziget Klub. Entering

from the central Margit híd, after
about 100m on the left you come to
my favorite tennis club. It may say
‘Only for Members’, but if they have
a court free you’ll get a game; sadly
it’s the only remaining tennis club
.u
fürdő

on the island. There’s also a plunge

Nép

pool in which to soak tired bones

Révé
sz u. after a hard game. Recently reno-
vated from its former high-end
Socialist retro look, the clubhouse
Dráv now has more of a lounge room
a u.
feel. Either way, it’s still a lovely
Tisza place to play tennis and also has a Locals lazing around the Musical Fountain.
at u.

u.
new summer terrace bar that
Karp

Vág
u . opened in summer 2008 (see Best when it marked a hundred years
Nightlife, p 123). y 0620/420-7333. since Budapest became one entity.
Tata
esse
nyei
u.
j u. Bring your own rackets. 3 = Musical Fountain. A bit
2 Centenary Monument. Carry further on you’ll come to the curi-
on straight and you’ll be greeted by ous spectacle of the musical foun-
the twisty Centenary Monument tain, which really requires no
u.
u.

whose intertwining symbolism repre- explanation other than it spurts out

Gyula
.
nia u

sents the fusion of Buda and Pest. It classical music intermittently. The
edűs
annó

has stood on this spot since 1972 spray carried by the breeze on to
Heg

Hajógyári-sziget
‘Boatyard Island’ is the next island upriver from Margaret Island
and has big green open spaces that are given over to the Sziget Fes-
tival for one week each year (see p 161). It’s also home to some of
the capital’s glitziest nightclubs (see Nightlife p 109). For golf enthu-
siasts, there’s also a driving range.
09_697580-ch05.qxp 2/5/09 11:42 PM Page 90

90
The Best of the Outdoors
A River Runs Through It—
the River Danube
The banks of the mighty but murky Danube tend to be domi-
nated by roads, but the stretch on the Pest side just north of the
Chain Bridge to Margaret Bridge makes for a pleasant stroll, as does
the whole of Margaret Island. Boat trips are a good way of viewing
the city from another perspective and there are a number of boat
operators offering tours from Vigadó tér on the Pest bank.

your boiling frame is a godsend in structure. The watertower is not cur-

the heat of summer for cooling off. rently open but a drink at the theater
bar directly underneath is a good
4 = ★★★ Bathing. Walk to
way to appreciate it. The bar is the
the Buda side from the fountain and
most laidback theater bar I know
you’ll find the Hajós Alfréd Uszoda
and one for which flip flops are
swimming complex (see p 29),
highly appropriate. @ 10 min.
which hosted a recent European
Swimming Championship. Further 7 = Japanese Garden. This
upstream, also facing the Buda side, cute cranny provides a nice diver-
is the altogether more relaxed holi- sion for kids who can spot varied
day camp-like Palatinus (see p 29). species of fish, turtles, and frogs to
For more pampered but indoor ther- the trickling sound of the waterfall.
mal bathing head to the Danubuis @ 15–30 min.
Health Spa Resort Margitsziget
8 = Musical Well. The last
close to Árpád híd. (6:30am–9:30pm
time I checked this little well out,
daily. Admission Ft 6,500 (week-
it was actually talking but hang
days), Ft 7,700 (weekend).)
around until music starts pumping
5 = ★ Abbey Ruins. The out. @ 15 min.
foundations of the 13th-century St.
Margaret’s Abbey are located roughly The watertower dating back to 1911.
on the middle of the island, Pest side.
While there’s been some obvious
mortaring going on and some mod-
ern additions, it is still a nice place to
contemplate the past. About another
100m further on, in an upstream
direction, there’s a replica functioning
church. @ 15 min.
6 ★★ Watertower. The water-
tower stands as a beacon of Hun-
gary’s industrial prowess at its time
of construction in 1911. Designer
and Budapest Engineering University
Professor Szilárd Zielinski managed
to add a few Art Nouveau touches
to the striking 57m/187ft-high
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 91

6 The Best Dining

10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 92

92
The Best Dining
Dining Best Bets
Best Balkan Best Italian
★ Kafana Grill Restaurant $–$$ ★★★ Fausto’s Étterem $$$$
Sörház utca 4 (p 105) Székely Mihály utca 2 (p 104); ★★★
Páva $$$$ Four Seasons Gresham
Best Bistro
Palace Roosevelt tér 5–6
★★ Café Kör $$ Sas utca 1 (p 99)
Best Pizza
Best Burger
★★ Il Terzo Cerchio $$ Dohány
★★★ Gresham Kávéház $$$ Four
utca 40 (p 104); ★★ Trattoria
Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel
Toscana $$ Belgrád rakpart 13
Roosevelt tér 5-6 (p 104); ★ Ballet- Kád
(p 108) ár u
cipó Hajós utca 14 $ (p 103) .
p
Best Retro NYUGATI
Best Burrito PÁLYAUDVAR
★★★ Kádár $ Klauzál tér 10 (p 100); Nyugati
★ Arriba Taqueria $ Teréz körút 25 tér
★ Menza Liszt Ferenc tér 2 (p 102)
(p 103)
Best Solet (Jewish Bean Stew)
Best Bargain Gourmet
★★ Fülemüle $$ Kófaragó utca 5

Bajcsy Zsilinszky út
★★★ Csalagány 26 $ Csalogány
(p 99)

Vadász u.
utca 26 (p 99)
Best Sushi
Best Celebrity Chef Meal

Ha
★★ Fuji $$$–$$$$ Csatárka utca 54

jós
★★★ Matteo $$$ Pasaréti út 100

u.
(p 104); ★★ Okuyama no Sushi $$$ ARANY
(p 102)

h
Zic
Kolosy tér 5–6 (p 106) JÁNOS UTCA
Ó
Best Cheap ‘n’ Cheerful
Best Wine Restaurant
Goulash Szt. István
★★★ Klassz $$ Andrássy út 41 Bazílíka
★ Pozsonyi kisvendégló $ Radnóti
(p 101) dr
Miklós utca 38 (p 102) An
BAJCS
Best Chinese Retro styling at Menza. ZSILIN
★★ Momotaro Ramen $$ DEÁK
Széchenyi utca 16 (p 106) FERENC TÉR Kir

Kár
Best Courtyard Dining oly
★★ Fészek $–$$ Kertész utca 36 Fővárosi
(p 99) Önkormány
BELVÁRO
Best Curry
FERENCIEK
★ Indigo $$ Jókai utca 13 (p 105); TERE
Kos
★ Taj Mahal $$ Szondi utca 40 (p 108)
Ferences
Best Danube Dining templom
★★ Spoon $$$ Moored opposite
ry P ál
Hotel Intercontinental (p 107) Nyá
Mo

V
lna Belgr

Vác
ru

Best Fin de Siècle Hungarian

i u.
.

Sze
Gourmet
ád

templo
rak

★★★ Vadrózsa $$$$ Pentelei Mol-

pa
rt

nár utca 5 (p 102)

Vás
Best Fusion
Szabadság
★★ Baraka $$$ Andrássy Hotel híd
MaMaison Andrássy út 111 (p 103)
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 93

93

Dining Best Bets

Outer Pest Dining
Bagolyvár 1 Állatkert

Bu
lc
sú
Baraka 2 . .

Dé
lu u
Városliget

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he lcs

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úu
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örg
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y
u.

út
pl-
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Ró
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nd

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na
Haxen Király 7 tere
Szo HŐSÖK

iu
Fe

nk
.

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rd

y u TERE

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iná

Millennium da Pippo 8

sy
va Műcsarnok

Ba
nd
nd

Mi
Szé

jza
Le út

há
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kel

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dm BAJZA An 2
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ok
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ív

u.

pályaudvar
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NYUGATI
M 9
PÁLYAUDVAR TEREZVÁROS Kodály Zoltán or
fas
Ró

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tér slig
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ma

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iu
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u.
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Szo iu
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u. ani
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mj
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rté

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fa

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ácf l u.

plébániatemplom
u.

Szö
et k
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au

M ZSILINSZKY ÚT h KELETI
uz

Klauzál
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vet
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ség

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fa

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FERENC TÉR Kir á czi ú

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10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 94

94
The Best Dining
Central Pest Dining
Arigato 1

art
rakp
Arriba Taqueria 2 41

esti

u.
MARGIT

.
la u
Artesano Spanyol Étterem és Tapas Bár 3 B

ia
út
Újp
HÍD

nón
13

Gyu
Balletcipő 4 H 26

Pan

s
.
Margit

Tátr Emő u

grád
edű
yi
Biarritz 5 híd

son

Heg

Vise
án
Poz

a u.
Bock Bistro 6 Jászai 34

Holl
Kat
ona

Budai alsó rakpart

Café Bouchon 7 Mari tér Sz Józ
t. Is sef
tvá u.
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rút

u.
Kád

rakpart

iksa u.
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Cyrano 9

u.
ár u

anube)
.

Honvéd
Fausto’s Étterem 10

Falk M
Balassi
Pesti alsó
NYUGAT
Fausto’s Osteria 11 PÁLYAUDVAR

Duna (D
Markó Honvéd Stollár Nyug
Fészek 12 u. tér Béla u. tér
5
Firkász 13
Szalay u.
Gerlóczy Kávéház 14
Néprajzi
y
Goa 15 Múzeum Alkotmán
Kossuth u.
Govinda Vegetáriánus Étterem 16 Országház Lajos

Honvéd u.
H BATTHYÁNY tér

Bajcsy Zsilinszky út
Gresham Kávéház 17 Báthory u.
M TÉR
Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen 18 KOSSUTH M Vértanúk
LAJOS TÉR tér

Vadász u.

Ha
Hold u.
Iguana Bar & Grill 19
Garibaldi u. 19
Il Terzo Cerchio 20
Zoltán u.
Bem rakpart

Szabadság
i rakpart

Nádor u.
Indigo 21 re tér
Steindl Im
Kádár Étkezde 22

Z
u. 33 ARANY
Szécheny
Akadémia

JÁNOS U.
Kafana Grill Restaurant 23
s u.
Károlyi Étterem-Káveház 24 Arany Jáno
Október 6.

8 Szt. István
Nádor u.
u.

Két Szerecsen Kávéház 25 Magyar 16 Bazílíka

Tudományos 30
Kiskakukk 26 Akadémia
Zrínyi u. 45
u.
Fő út

Kispipa 27 Roosevelt BA
tér
17 Mérleg u. ZSI
Klassz 28 Széchenyi
u.
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38
Bécsi u.

Ádám tér tér Erzsébet

József tér DEÁK
Lou-Lou 30 nádor tér FERE
M! 31 VÖRÖSMARTY Deák
44 TÉR M Ferenc tér
Menza 32 Vörösmarty
Pest

Budavári tér
Momotaro Ramen 33 palota Vigadó 9 Fővárosi
i alsó

tér Önkormányz
Mosselen 34
rakp

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Oceán Bar & Grill 35

tőf

40
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Okay Italia 36 At alja u

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tila .
ru
u.

Pampas Argentine Steak House 37 út Petőfi 35

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szt tér
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Pata Negra 39
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Peppers! Mediterranean Grill 40 Keresz Március

tila

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t

Pozsonyi kisvendéglő 41 gyógyfürdő ry P

híd Nyá
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 10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 95

95

Dining Best Bets

Csa LEHEL TÉR M
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10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
98
The Best Dining
Budapest Dining A to Z
Hungarian
★★ Alabárdos BUDA HUNGARIAN
Gourmet heaven in a Gothic setting
with unique takes on Hungarian cui-
sine from only the best in local fresh
ingredients. Országház utca 2. y 1/
356-0851. Entrees Ft 3,300–Ft 6,500.
AE, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Fri. Lunch &
dinner Sat. Bus: 16/16A1/116 to Szen-
tháromság tér. Map p 96.
★★ Arcade Bistro BUDA HUN-
GARIAN/CONTINENTAL Stylishly
modern sister of Pest’s Café Kör
(see p 99), ups the gourmet stakes
with delicacies like Mangalica pork
with dried tomato risotto. Kiss János
Altábornagy utca 38. y 1/225-1696.
Entrees Ft 2,490–Ft 4,470. MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Tram:
59/61 to Csörsz utca. Map p 96.
Bagolyvár OUTER PEST HUNGAR-
IAN Run by some 20 women, the
‘Owl’s Castle’ does Magyar cuisine,
in an early 20th-century setting,
as a Hungarian mom makes it. This
sister of gourmet Gundel (p 100) is
housed in a mock Transylvanian cas-
tle. Állatkerti út 2. y 1/468-3110.
Classic Hungarian served up at Biarritz.
11:43 PM Page 98
Ft 1,500–Ft 4,000. AE, DC, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere. Map p 93.
Biarritz CENTRAL PEST HUNGAR-
IAN/INTERNATIONAL A few steps
away from Parliament, this stylish
eatery does classic Hungarian and
continental dishes well, but excels in
merging the two. Nice summer ter-
race. Kossuth Lajos tér 18 (entrance
on Balassi Bálint utca). y 1/311-
4413. Entrees Ft 2,950–Ft 5,450. AE,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2
to Szalay utca. Map p 94.
★ Bock Bistro CENTRAL PEST
HUNGARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN
Luxury Latin look with tasty tapas
and succulent meat, doubling as a
shop for Villány producer József
Bock’s wines. Corinthia Grand
Hotel Royal, Erzsébet körút 43–49.
y 1/321-0340. Entrees Ft 3,100–Ft
5,100. MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon;
tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94.
Borbíróság OUTER PEST HUNGAR-
IAN With 60 wines available by the
glass, the ‘Court of Wines’ is ideal
for sampling local wines alongside
quality fusion-free Hungarian dishes.
Csarnok tér 5. y 1/219-0902.
Entrees Ft 2,250–Ft 4,250. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Metro: M3
to Kálvin tér. Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin
tér. Map p 93.
★ Café Bouchon CENTRAL PEST
HUNGARIAN/FRENCH Welcoming
bistro with Art Nouveau influences
in the décor and new takes on
Hungarian cuisine and continental
favorites. Zichy Jenó utca 33.
y 1/353-4094. Entrees Ft 2,100–Ft
4,690. No credit cards. Lunch & din-
ner Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon,
M3 to Nyugati pu. Map p 94.
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
Try Villány producer József Bock’s wine at
the Bock Bistro.
★★ Café Kör CENTRAL PEST HUN-
GARIAN/CONTINENTAL Buzzing
bistro and although it’s a bit
cramped, plenty of bums on seats
ensures ever-consistent Hungarian
and continental fare. Sas utca 17.
y 1/311-0053. Entrees Ft 1,870–Ft
4,190. No credit cards. Lunch & din-
ner Mon–Sat. Metro: M3 to Arany
János utca. Map p 94.
★★★ Csalagány 26 BUDA HUN-
GARIAN/CONTINENTAL Remark-
able value lunch menu makes this
plain-looking bistro a good bet,
although it’s more expensive in the
evening. Dishes are prepared using
only fresh seasonal ingredients.
Café Kör.
11:43 PM Page 99
99
Budapest Dining A to Z
Csalogány utca 26. y 1/201-7892.
Entrees Ft 1,400–Ft 4,000. MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Tues–Fri, dinner only
Sat; closed 20 Jul–5 Aug. Metro: M2
to Batthyány tér. Map p 96.
★★ = Fészek CENTRAL PEST
HUNGARIAN This artists’ club, with
its cloistered courtyard, is steeped in
atmosphere. Excellent sztrapacska
(flour and potato dumplings with
bacon and ewe cheese). Kertész utca
36. y 1/322-6043. Entrees Ft
1,500–Ft 2,300. No credit cards.
Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 4/6 to
Király utca. Map p 94.
★ Firkász CENTRAL PEST HUNGAR-
IAN Fine cuts are prepared from
refined recipes at Firkász. Old news-
paper articles are pasted to the walls
and a piano player enhances the old-
world atmosphere in the evening.
Tátra utca 18. y 1/450-1119.
Entrees Ft 1,490–Ft 4,900. MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to
Jászai Mari tér. Map p 94.
★★ Fülemüle OUTER PEST HUN-
GARIAN/JEWISH ‘The Nightingale’
serves a non-kosher blend of Hun-
garian and Jewish cuisine that pre-
dates modern fusion trends in a
warm family setting. Kófaragó utca
5. y 1/266-7947. Entrees Ft
1,900–Ft 4,700. MC, V. Lunch &
dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Blaha
Lujza tér. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha Lujza
tér. Map p 93.
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM
100
The Best Dining
★★★ Gerlóczy Kávéház
CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN CONTI-
NENTAL Lovely Parisian-style café
serving homemade pastry for break-
fast and creative lunch and dinner
offerings with some nice twists. Ger-
lóczy utca 1. y 1/235-0953. Entrees
Ft 1,890–Ft 3,900. AE, MC, V. Break-
fast, lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/
M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 94.
★★ Gundel OUTER PEST HUNGAR-
IAN A feast of the finest china,
tablecloths, artworks, and splendor
entice you before you even get to
the food. Gundel has been moving
into the present serving Hungarian
cuisine in a lighter but still expres-
sive way via better use of seasonal
ingredients. If you don’t feel like
dressing up, Gundel’s 1894 Wine
Cellar is more subterranean. Állatk-
erti út 2. y 1/468-4040. Entrees Ft
3,900–Ft 10,620. AE, DC, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere. Map p 93.
Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen CEN-
TRAL PEST HUNGARIAN KOSHER
Hungarian classics, like the simple
but crispy and succulent Kosher
chicken fried in breadcrumbs, are
served in this atmospheric, no-frills
1970s-style dining room. Roast
duck, beef goulash, and stuffed
Old world charm at Firkász.
Page 100
cabbage also feature. Dob utca 35.
y 1/342-1072. Entrees Ft 1,500–Ft
1,800. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
daily. Map p 94.
★★ Haxen Király OUTER PEST
HUNGARIAN/BAVARIAN Pine-
paneling and wooden furnishings
galore welcome carnivores with
generous portions of quality goose
liver, goose leg, wild boar, and pork
knuckle. Király utca 100. y 1/351-
6793. Entrees Ft 2,500–Ft 3,500. AE,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:
M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 93.
★ Kacsa Vendégló BUDA HUN-
GARIAN Hungary is known for its
delectable duck, old-fashioned hos-
pitality and, once upon a time, for
quality service. You get all this
and more at ‘Duck’. Fó utca 75.
y 1/201-9992. Entrees Ft 3,600–Ft
5,600. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
daily. Metro: M2 to Battyhány tér.
Map p 96.
★★★ Kádár Étkezde CENTRAL
PEST HUNGARIAN/JEWISH Non-
Kosher, Jewish-like crispy goose leg
with red cabbage served in a real
retro setting where guests often
share tables. The solet bean stew
and matzo ball soup are on the
menu Saturdays only. Klauzál tér 10.
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
Seasonal Hungarian dishes at Gundel.
y 1/321-3622. Entrees Ft 750–
Ft 1,800. No credit cards. Lunch
Tues–Sat. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
Map p 94.
★ Károlyi Étterem-Kávéház
CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/
MEDITERRANEAN Good value
restaurant-cum-coffee house in the
grand Károlyi Palace featuring a
restored Biedermeier interior and a
sublime courtyard. Károlyi Mihály
utca 16. y 1/328-0240. Entrees Ft
1,250–Ft 3,250. AE, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek-
tere or Kálvin tér. Map p 94.
★★★ Kisbuda Gyöngye BUDA
HUNGARIAN High-end Hungarian
with continental and Mediterranean
twists like goose liver risotto
served in a charming early 20th-
century setting that’s well worth the
trek out to Óbuda. Kenyeres u. 34.
y 1/368-9227. Entrees Ft 1,800–Ft
4,200. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Mon–Sat. Tram: 17 to Nagyszombat
utca. Map p 96.
★★ Kiskakukk CENTRAL PEST
HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Arches
and heavy wood depict the original
‘Little Cuckoo’ restaurant, which
dates back to 1913. Delicacies
11:43 PM Page 101
101
Budapest Dining A to Z
include goose liver cream soup.
Pozsonyi út 12. y 1/450-0829.
Entrees Ft 2,000–Ft 3,000. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to
Jászai Mari tér. Map p 94.
★ Kispipa CENTRAL PEST HUN-
GARIAN Traditional Hungarian and
old-world continental dishes with
lots of game on the menu. Expect a
refined pre-war vibe and enjoy the
piano player after 7pm. Akácfa utca
38. y 1/342-2587 or 1/342-3969.
Entrees Ft 980–Ft 5,560. AE, DC, MC,
V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényi
utca. Map p 94.
★★★ Klassz CENTRAL PEST
HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Foie
gras risottos, lamb knuckle, and
Mangalica pig steak feature at this
creative and hip minimalist-designed
wine restaurant. No bookings so
turn up early. Andrássy út 41. No
phone. Entrees Ft 1,490–Ft 2,890.
AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat;
lunch only Sun. Metro: M1 to Opera.
Map p 94.
★★ Kóleves CENTRAL PEST HUN-
GARIAN Hearty Hungarian meat
dishes plus Jewish, international, and
veggie options are available here at
Vegetarian options available at the hip
Kóleves.
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
102
The Best Dining
Magyar recipes and a top wine list at
Maligán Borétterem.
the cool and slightly alternative
‘Stone soup’. Kazinczy utca 35/Dob
utca 26 corner. y 1/322-1011.
Entrees Ft 1,280–Ft 3,680. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/
M3 to Deák tér. Map p 94.
★ Maligán Borétterem BUDA
HUNGARIAN This classy cellar
eatery is one of a number of ‘wine
restaurants’ but this one also
comes up with the culinary goods
via creative and subtle new-style
Magyar recipes. Real gems among
the extensive wine list, and tasting
measures also served. Lajos utca 38.
y 1/240-9010. Entrees Ft 2,900–
Ft 3,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner Tues–Sat Bus: 86/160/260 to
Kolosy tér. Map p 96.
★★★ = Matteo BUDA HUN-
GARIAN Subtle but expressive
flavors in a Bauhaus setting from TV
chef Péter Buday who mixes with
diners as he works out which Mag-
yar Med concoction they might like.
Pasaréti út 100. y 1/392-7531.
Entrees Ft 1,600–Ft 5,900. MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 56 to
Pasaréti tér (last stop). Map p 96.
★ Menza CENTRAL PEST HUNGAR-
IAN Popular spot for unpretentious
11:43 PM Page 102
Hungarian fare on fashionable Liszt
Ferenc tér. The fun retro kitsch
décor is based on the ubiquitous
Socialist-era canteen. Liszt Ferenc
tér 2. y 1/413-1482. Entrees Ft
1,490–Ft 3,490. AE, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.
Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94.
★ Pozsonyi kisvendégló CEN-
TRAL PEST HUNGARIAN People
queue up patiently for reassuringly
old-fashioned, cheap, and cheerful
Hungarian classics. Grab a beer as
you wait or nip in early. Radnóti Mik-
lós utca 38 (corner of Pozsonyi út).
y 1/329-2911. Entrees Ft 800–Ft
1,900. No credit cards. Tram: 2/4/6 to
Jászai Mari tér. Map p 94.
★★★ Vadrózsa BUDA HUNGAR-
IAN Fine dining turn-of-the-cen-
tury style, in a Baroque villa circled
by a plush garden. Goose liver, gor-
geous-looking cuts of meat, game,
and fish will be paraded enticingly
before you. Pentelei Molnár utca 15.
y 1/326-5817. Entrees Ft 4,400–Ft
5,980. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner daily. Bus: 11/91 to Vend
utca. Map p 96.
International Cuisines
★ Arany Kaviár BUDA RUSSIAN
The best in Beluga, Sevruga, and
Iranian caviar, blinis and pickled fish,
plus posh Stroganoff in a retro
Romanov setting. Ostrom utca 19.
y 1/201-6737 or 1/225-7370.
Entrees Ft 3,500–Ft 9,500. AE, DC,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:
M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6 to
Moszkva tér. Map p 96.
★ Arigato CENTRAL PEST JAPAN-
ESE This threadbare Japanese-run
joint is popular for the highly
authentic, regularly changing and
healthy-looking meat, rice, noodle,
and veg combos, plus sushi. Ó utca
3. y 1/353-3549. Ft 1,850–Ft 5,000.
AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
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103

Budapest Dining A to Z
Mon–Sat. Metro: M3 to Arany János antique-laden, bijou setting. Frankel
utca. Map p 94. Leó u. 12. y 1/316-3970. Entrees Ft
1,000–Ft 2,000. Breakfast, lunch &
★ Arriba Taqueria CENTRAL
dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Battyhány
PEST MEXICAN Freshly steamed
tér. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd Budai
tacos, quesadillas, and burritos with
hídfó. Map p 96.
juicy steak, chorizo, carnitas, and
fresh condiments galore. Colorful Carne di Hall BUDA BELGIAN/
murals. Teréz körút 25. y 1/374- INTERNATIONAL Croquette de
0057. Entrees Ft 1,200–Ft 1,600. crevettes, from fresh juicy shrimps,
AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner and melt-in-the-mouth steak tartare
Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. feature at this attractive Buda
Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94. waterfront eatery. Bem rakpart 20.
★★ Artesano Spanyol y 1/201-8137. Entrees Ft 3,000–
Ft 5,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Étterem és Tapas Bár CENTRAL
daily. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér.
PEST SPANISH Refined Spanish
Map p 96.
regional dishes and fine tapas in a
fashionable setting straight from Chez Daniel OUTER PEST FRENCH
‘new Spain’. Cheap lunch menu Walk out if the owner-chef is asleep
on weekdays. Ó utca 24–26. on the bar, but when he’s on song
y 1/688-1696. Entrees Ft 1,800–Ft this is nouveau French cuisine par-
3,200. MC, V. Lunch & dinner excellence. Lovely courtyard in sum-
Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. mer. Szív utca 32. y 1/302-4039.
Map p 94. Entrees Ft 2,000–Ft 5,000. AE, DC,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:
★ Balletcipó CENTRAL PEST
M1 to Kodály körönd. Map p 93.
INTERNATIONAL This gastro pub’s
eclectic menu somehow works, ★ Cyrano CENTRAL PEST INTER-
especially the Philly Cheese Steak NATIONAL Pricey but consistently
sandwich. Spills out onto a shabby creative restaurant offering new
chic pedestrian street in summer. fresh-ingredient fuelled takes on old
Hajós utca 14 (corner of Ó utca).
y 1/269-3114. Entrees Ft 1,580–Ft Mexican fare at Arriba Taqueria.
2,950. No credit cards. Lunch & din-
ner daily. Metro: M1 to Opera or M3
to Arany János utca. Map p 94.
★★★ Baraka OUTER PEST FUSION
Dark, sleek and minimalist, Baraka
fits well into the Bauhaus Andrássy
Hotel (see p 140) and sets the fusion
standards with ambitious-sounding
but delicious concoctions. MaMai-
son Andrássy Hotel. Andrássy út
111. y 1/483-1355. Entrees Ft
2,900–Ft 6,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch
& dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Bajza
utca. Map p 93.

Café Gusto BUDA ITALIAN

Exquisite Italianate salads and
starters, cold pastas, and sumptu-
ous Tiramisu served in an intimate,
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
104
The Best Dining
Try Fuji for great sushi lunch boxes.
favorites. Kristóf tér 7–8. y 1/226-
3096. Entrees Ft 3,690–4790. AE,
MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner
daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér.
Map p 94.
★★★ Fausto’s Étterem CEN-
TRAL PEST ITALIAN Exquisite Ital-
ian traditional cuisine enhanced by
subtle wider-world touches and
flawless ingredients. Classy minimal-
ist décor. Székely Mihály utca 2.
y 1/877-6210. Entrees Ft 2,200–Ft
6,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Mon–Fri; dinner only Sat. Metro: M1
to Opera. Map p 94.
★★★ Fausto’s Osteria CENTRAL
PEST ITALIAN Fausto’s traditional
take on Italian cuisine is informal but
gets the ingredients just right. Like
its sibling Fausto’s Etterem, it also
received a recommended tag from
Michelin in 2007. Dohány utca 5.
y 1/269-6806. Entrees Ft 1,850–
Ft 4,600. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Mon–Sat. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
Map p 94.
11:43 PM Page 104
★★ Fuji =
BUDA JAPANESE
Sushi is rolled before watchful cus-
tomers in a highly authentic setting.
Great lunch boxes include sashimi,
tempura, and grilled fish. Csatárka
utca 54 (corner of Zöldlomb utca &
Zödkert utca). y 1/325-7111.
Entrees Ft 3,500–Ft 9,800. AE, DC,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Bus: 29
to Zöldkert út. Map p 96.
Goa CENTRAL PEST ASIAN INTER-
NATIONAL The chichi generic
Asian décor works as a backdrop to
the refined pan-Asian specialties,
including sushi, plus pasta dishes,
excellent salads, and ciabatta
sandwiches. Andrássy út 8.
y 1/302-2570. Entrees Ft 1,500–Ft
2,500. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
daily. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
út. Map p 94.
Govinda Vegetáriánus
Étterem CENTRAL PEST INDIAN
Great value vegetarian Indian food
from the Krishnas in this funky cel-
lar. Wash it all down with the spicy
homemade soft drinks. Vigyázó Fer-
enc utca 4. y 1/269-1625. Entrees
Ft 1,550–Ft 1,850 (menus). No credit
cards. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat.
Metro: M3 to Arany János utca.
Map p 94.
★★★ Gresham Kávéház
CENTRAL PEST CONTINENTAL/
GOURMET ITALIAN At Gresham
you’ll find fine continental and now
also Hungarian cuisine with sublime
international touches and a view to
the Chain Bridge. A suave coffee
house-cum-bistro inside an Art Nou-
veau landmark. Four Seasons Gre-
sham Palace Hotel, Roosvevelt tér
5–6. y 1/268-5100. Entrees Ft
3,600–Ft 5,800. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch
& dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Vörös-
marty tér. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér.
Map p 94.
★★ Il Terzo Cerchio CENTRAL
PEST ITALIAN A strong Italian
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 105

105

Budapest Dining A to Z
contingent frequents this upmarket pub. Sörház utca 4. y 1/266-2274.
trattoria whose house pizza is a Entrees Ft 1,400– Ft 3,900. No credit
tasty assortment of tomato, buffalo cards. Dinner daily. Metro: M3 to
mozzarella, Parma ham, and ruccola Ferenciek tere. Tram: 2 to Fóvám tér.
(arugula/rocket). Dohány utca 40. Map p 94.
y 1/354-0788. Entrees Ft 1,550–Ft ★★ Két Szerecsen Kávéház
5,500. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.
CENTRAL PEST MEDITERRANEAN
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Map
Med-influenced cuisine and décor,
p 94.
with subtle Magyar and international
Iguana Bar & Grill CENTRAL touches. The ‘Two Saracens’ is also
PEST TEX-MEX The American good for tapas or just a drink. Nice
expat crowd pile in for Tex-Mex that terrace. Nagymezó utca 14. y 1/343-
approaches the quality from back 1984. Entrees Ft 2,160–Ft 3,990. DC,
home. Enjoy the potent margaritas MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:
and a guaranteed lively Cantina M1 to Opera. Map p 94.
atmosphere. Zoltán utca 16.
★★★ Lou-Lou CENTRAL PEST
y 1/301-0215. Entrees Ft 1,890–Ft INTERNATIONAL Lovely and con-
3,990. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
sistent creative fusion of Hungarian
daily. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tér.
and French cuisine, with subtle
Map p 94.
touches coming from further afield.
★ Indigo CENTRAL PEST INDIAN Sleek décor. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4.
A fine Indian all-rounder with an y 1/312-4505. Entrees Ft 4,400–Ft
impressive range of classic Indian 10,900. AE, V, MC, AE. Lunch & din-
dishes, but particularly excelling in ner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat. Metro:
lamb curries. The comfy chic décor M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. Map p 94.
makes this a place to linger. Jókai
★ M! CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/
utca 13. y 1/428-2187. Entrees Ft
HUNGARIAN No-nonsense bijou
2,000–Ft 3,000. Lunch & dinner daily.
bistro that lets the creative and daily
Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to
changing menu do the talking. Well
Oktogon. Map p 94.
worth visiting again now that Fran-
★★ Jardin de Paris BUDA cophile founder Miklós Sulyok is
FRENCH Authentic foie gras, lamb,
and hanger (onglet) steak can be Lou Lou offers a fusion of Hungarian and
savored in this beautiful Baroque French cuisine.
house. In the summer months it’s
lovely to dine in the garden. Ask for
the excellent complimentary shred-
ded duck pâté rillettes should it fail
to arrive. Fó utca 20. y 1/201-0047.
Entrees Ft 1,500–Ft 5,200. AE, DC,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro:
M2 to Batthyány tér. Map p 96.
★ Kafana Grill Restaurant
CENTRAL PEST SERBIAN/
INTERNATIONAL The cool rustic
décor with funky urban paintings is
the perfect setting to enjoy succu-
lent Serbian ground meat specialties
5evapci5i and pljeskavica. Also a
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM
106
The Best Dining
back. Kertész utca 48. y 1/342-
8991. Entrees Ft 1,400–Ft 2,800. No
credit cards. Dinner daily. Metro: M1
to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
Map p 94.
Millennium da Pippo OUTER
PEST ITALIAN Resembling a
station of the Millennium Under-
ground that zips under the same
street, the food is reassuringly rustic
and good quality. Andrássy út 76
(corner of Rózsa utca). y 1/374-
0880. Entrees Ft 1,300–Ft 4,050. MC,
V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Vörösmárty utca. Map p 93.
★★ Momotaro Ramen CENTRAL
PEST ASIAN The excellent ramen
noodle soup washed down by the
free tea may suffice, but tasty
Szechuan mains delight. Széchenyi
utca 16. y 1/269-3802. Entrees
under Ft 800. No credit cards.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to
Kossuth tér. Tram: 2 to Kossuth tér.
Map p 94.
Mosselen CENTRAL PEST BELGIAN/
CONTINENTAL The imagination
behind the names of dishes like ‘The
Favorite of the Leuven Professors’
(duck steak) also goes into the cre-
ative Belgian-influenced fare. Eight
Belgian beers on draft. Pannónia
utca 14 (corner of Katona József
utca). y 1/452-0535. Entrees Ft
1,800–Ft 4,890. AE, V, MC. Lunch &
dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai
Mari tér. Map p 94.
Nusantara BUDA INDONESIAN
Fine attention to detail both in terms
of the high-quality Indonesian from
native chefs featuring regional spe-
cialties starting with Lumpia (Javan
spring rolls) and the sleek softly lit
décor. Városmajor utca 88. y 1/201-
1478. Entrees Ft 2,390–Ft 3,790. MC,
V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 56 to
Szent János Kórház. Map p 96.
★★ Oceán Bar & Grill CENTRAL
PEST SEAFOOD Creative cooking is
Page 106
on the menu here, but I prefer to
ask what’s fresh in and have it
grilled. Nautical touches and the
mighty Danube outside are con-
ducive for an ocean feast. The
adjoining Deli does take-out fish ‘n’
chips. Petófi tér 3. y 1/266-1826.
Entrees Ft 2,300–Ft 9,750. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Vörösmarty tér. Tram: 2 to Vigadó
tér. Map p 94.
Okay Italia CENTRAL PEST
ITALIAN This Pest trattoria packs
them in with well-priced classics and
mini-skirted waitresses. If it’s full, its
identically named twin is nearby at
Nyugati tér 6. Szent István körút 20.
y 1/349-229. Entrees Ft 1,450–Ft
3,650. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
daily. Metro: M3 to Nyugatipu. Tram:
2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Map p 94.
★★ Okuyama no Sushi BUDA
JAPANESE Stellar sushi is rolled
from ocean delights by the intricate
Japanese hand of Tokyo-trained chef
Sachi Okuyama in this no-nonsense
cellar joint. Cooked options, too.
Kolosy tér 5–6. y 1/250-8256.
Entrees Ft 1,200–Ft 5,000. No credit
cards. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun.
Bus: 6/60/86 to Kolosy tér.
★ Pampas Argentine Steak
House CENTRAL PEST STEAK
Stylish blood red décor and juicy
steaks from quality imported Argen-
tine Angus cuts, T-bone from the
UK, plus Japanese Kobe. Vámház
körút 6. y 1/411-1750. Entrees Ft
2,600–Ft 14,900. MC, V. Lunch & din-
ner daily. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér.
Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin tér. Map p 94.
★★ = Paris-Budapest Café
CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/HUNGARIAN
Enjoyable nouvelle French cuisine,
plus a lighter, refreshing take on
Hungarian staples. It’s sleek with an
open kitchen and views to the Chain
Bridge. Sofitel Budapest; Roosevelt
tér 2. y 1/235-5600. Entrees Ft
4,000–Ft 6,600. AE, DC, MC, V.
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to
Kossuth tér. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér.
Map p 94.
Pata Negra CENTRAL PEST
SPANISH Traditional, tasty tapas
with many of the ingredients like
jamon and manchego sheep’s
cheese imported from Spain.
Almost authentic tiled interior plus
seats outside next to a church.
Kálvin tér 8. y 1/215-5616. Entrees
Ft 850–Ft 2,200. No credit cards.
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M3 to
Kálvin. Map p 94.
★★ = Peppers! Mediter-
ranean Grill CENTRAL PEST
MEDITERRANEAN Delicious
Mediterranean-style dishes from local
ingredients plus imported salumi to
be enjoyed in a stylish setting.
Budapest Marriott Hotel; Apáczai
Csere János utca 4. y 1/737-7377.
Entrees Ft 1,400–Ft 5,900. AC, DC, MC,
V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Metro:
M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Map p 94.
★★ Remíz BUDA HUNGARIAN/
CONTINENTAL Remíz has a classy
casual atmosphere. The front room
features a raised alcove that resem-
bles the front of a tram. In summer,
Fab fusion at Segal.
11:43 PM Page 107
107
Budapest Dining A to Z
tasty spare ribs are grilled up in
the lovely garden. y 1/275-1396.
Entrees Ft 1,500–Ft 3,000. Budakeszi
út 5. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
daily. Tram: 17. Bus: 22 to Szépilona.
Map p 96.
★★ Ristorante Krizia CENTRAL
PEST ITALIAN A charming and
hardly discovered slice of Italy
where a savvy touch is applied to
traditional Italian cuisine, making
poor man’s food a rich experience.
Mozsár utca 12. y 1/331-8711.
Entrees Ft 2,680–Ft 8,500. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Metro: M1
to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon.
Map p 94.
★ Segal CENTRAL PEST FUSION
Fab fusion from the chef of the origi-
nal Baraka (p 103), who is now in his
own place showing daring simplicity
and a philosophy of which ingredi-
ents to combine, and which not.
Óutca 43-49. y 1/328-0774. Entrees
Ft 3,200–Ft 5,500. AE, DC, MC, V. Din-
ner only Mon–Sat. Metro: M2 to
Astoria. Map p 94.
★★ Spoon DANUBE PEST SIDE
INTERNATIONAL Spoon is the pick
of the flotilla of boat restaurants,
10_697580-ch06.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 108

108
The Best Dining
although the classy cuisine itself
warrants a visit regardless of the
inspiring Buda views and cool decor.
Ocean fresh fish and seafood, and
quality meat feature strongly.
Opposite Hotel Intercontinental.
y 1/411-0933. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch
& dinner. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty
tér. Map p 94.
★ Taj Mahal OUTER PEST INDIAN
Highly consistent traditional and
authentic curry house specializing in
Karahi, Balti, Handi, and Tandoori
dishes. Cricket games are screened.
Szondi utca 40. y 1/301-0447.
Entrees Ft 1,000–Ft 3,000. AE, MC, V.
Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. Metro: M1
to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati
pu. Map p 93. Spoon.

Tom George Restaurant &

cuisine to be relished in this rustic
Café CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/
restaurant with authentic wooden
INTERNATIONAL A trendy but reli-
beams and red bricks. Fabulous
ably creative gourmet menu consist-
carpaccio (marinated raw beef),
ing of Hungarian, continental, Asian
fresh pasta, brick oven-baked piz-
(including Thai curries), and sushi,
zas, seafood galore, and tasty
all to a high level. Október 6. utca 8.
T-bone are among my favorites. In
y 1/266-3525. Entrees Ft 2,800–Ft summer enjoy the tranquil river view
7,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
from the terrace. Belgrád rakpart
daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér.
13. y 1/327-0045. Entrees Ft 2,390–
Map p 94.
Ft 5,250. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
★★ Trattoria Toscana CENTRAL daily. Tram: 2 to Március 15. tér.
PEST ITALIAN Refined Tuscan Map p 94.

Trattoria Toscana.
11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 109

7 The Best Nightlife

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110
The Best Nightlife
Nightlife Best Bets
Áld
ás u
Best Al Fresco Bar Best Glitzy Dance Club .

Esz
★★★ Holdudvar, Margaret Island ★★★ Dokk, Hajógyárisziget 122

te ru
.
(p 123) (p 124)

Best Boho Bar Best Intimate Night Club

★★ Kiadó Kocsma, Jókai tér 3 ★★★ Fészek Club, Kertész utca 36 Bimbó út

(p 118) and ★★★ Sark, Klauzál tér (p 124) and ★★★ Piaf, Nagymezó
Keleti Ká
14 (p 120) utca 25 (p 124) roly u
Kis .
Ró
k
Best Comic Strip Décor Best Lesbian Hospitality Millenáris us u.
Park
★★ Szóda, Wesselényi utca 18 ★★ Café Eklektika, Nagymezó utca

Lö
vő
(p 120) 30 (p 124)

há
zu
.
Mamm
Best Courtyard Bar Best Martini MOSZKVA
★★★ Mumus, Dob utca 18 (p 123) ★★★ Gresham Bar, Four Seasons TÉR

ú t
Gresham Palace Hotel, Roosevelt tér ány

ező
Best Dive Bar Bat
thy

Vérm
5–6 (p 117)
Mátravidéki Borozó, Corvin tér 1
(p 121) Best Place to Drink with the Hadtörténeti
Locals Múzeum

Krisztina körút
Best Garage Bar
★ Wichmann, Kazinczy utca 55
★★ Kuplung, Király utca 46 (p 118)
(p 120)
Best Gay Club DÉLI
Best Place to Show off under PÁLYAUDVAR
★★★ CoXx Men’s, Dohány utca 38
the Stars Déli Vérmez
(p 124)
★★★ Bed Beach, Hajógyárisziget pályaudvar
ris

K
(p 121) z
Alfresco drinking at Holdudvar.

Kosc
Alkotás u.
Best Place to Watch English

ius
zk
óT
Premier League Soccer á
★★ Caledonian Scottish Pub,
Mozsár utca 9 (p 116)

Best Retro Bar

★★ Bambi Presszó, Frankel Leó Avar
utca 2–4 (p 116)
u.

Best Rooftop Terrace MOM

Park Tálto
út

★★★ Corvintetó, Corvin Áruház,

ori

Csörs
Gy

Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (p 122)

Alkotás u.

Cs
p
Best Something for Everyone
Hegyal
Nightspot
★★ Club Inside/Buddha Ot
Beach/Retro Beach, Közraktár utca
9–11 (p 124)

Best Thirty-something Boho

Hangout
★★★ Ellátó, Klauzál tér 2 (p 117)
11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 111

111

Nightlife Best Bets

Buda Nightlife
Áld Andante 1
ás u Boly 5
. ai Lukács

Apostol u.
u. Bambi Presszó 2
Esz

gyógyfürdő
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.

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Millenáris us u. Paulaner Brauhaus 9
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Park Romkert 10

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.

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11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 112

112
The Best Nightlife
Pest Nightlife
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 11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 113

113

Nightlife Best Bets

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11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 114

114
The Best Nightlife
Islands Nightlife
Kór
Bed Beach 1 ház

lós u.
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s u.
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 11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 115

115

Nightlife Best Bets

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11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09 11:43 PM Page 116

116
The Best Nightlife
Budapest Nightlife A to Z
Bars & Pubs y 1/210-0885. Tram: 4/6 to Rákóczi
★★ Bambi Presszó BUDA tér. Map p 112.
Named after a Socialist-period bev-
★★ Caledonian Scottish Pub
erage, Bambi Presszó has original
PEST Draught Scottish bitter (or
swinging Socialist sixties decor with
‘heavy’ as it’s known in Scotland),
red PVC and old guys playing domi-
Belhaven Best flows freely in this
nos, plus a great terrace. Go early as
cozy football-oriented gastropub
it closes around 9pm. Frankel Leó
that’s noted for its all-day Scottish
utca 2–4 (corner of Bem József utca).
breakfast. It also has a Scottish gift
y 1/212-3171. Tram: 4/6 to Budai shop should you get stuck watching
hídfó. Map p 111.
the soccer and be needing a pres-
★ Bar Ladino PEST Shabby cool ent to make amends. Mozsár utca 9.
bar-cum-eatery with funky brown y 1/311-7611. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.
wallpaper where old dudes playing Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
cards in the afternoon give way to a
Captain Cook PEST While sup-
thirty-something crowd. A good
posedly an English pub, in this
place to meet up before taking on
respect it’s far from authentic, being
the bars of Jewish District VII. Dob
decked out in whatever memorabilia
utca 53. y 0630/874-3733. www.
the owners could find. Nonetheless,
ladino.hu. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.
this bar is hard to leave due to its
Map p 112.
intimate nooks and crannies, a cool
Barokko Club & Lounge PEST terrace in summer, and terrific
Three-level all-in-one cocktail lounge draught beer. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út
bar, club, and restaurant, plus a ter- 19/a. y 1/269-3136. Metro: M3 to
race onto the Pest party square of Arany János utca. Map p 112.
Liszt Ferenc tér. DJ parties down-
Castro Bisztró PEST The origi-
stairs. Liszt Ferenc tér 5. y 1/322-
nal Castro that lit up the trendy bar
0700. www.barokko.hu. Metro: M1
to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon.
Nordic minimalism at Buena Vista.
Map p 112.
★ Buena Vista PEST Trendy but
classy with slick Nordic minimalist
design, linseed oiled floors,
mahogany tables, and a wide selec-
tion of drinks. Restaurant upstairs
and great terrace right on fashion-
able Liszt Ferenc tér. Liszt Ferenc tér
4–5. y 1/344-6303. Metro: M1 to
Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map
p 112.
★ Café Csiga PEST Cool Boho
hangout with an intimate bar area
at home on the corner of an atmos-
pheric square. A good place to
hang out at any time of day and
food is also served. Vásár utca 2.
11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09
Fat Mo’s speak-easy style.
strip of Ráday utca with its alterna-
tive vibe was a real favorite of mine,
but the poster-laden new venue still
comes up with the goods. The
downside of its popularity is that the
wonky wooden tables are often
occupied. Decent Serbian food is on
hand for sustenance. Madách tér 3.
y 1/215-0184. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to
Deák tér. Map p 112.
Déryné BUDA This converted
coffeehouse close to the Castle Dis-
trict, a favorite hangout of generally
discerning and well-to-do thirty
and ups, is a tasteful mix of trendy
lounge room, cocktail and wine bar
sections and also has a bistro, high
end restaurant and breakfast joint
all under one roof. Krisztina tér 3.
y 1/255-1407. Tram 18-56. Bus 105
to Krisztina tér. Map p 111.
★★★ Ellátó PEST Attracting a
slightly older arty crowd, ‘the bringer’
delivers a lively and sometimes a tan-
gibly flirty atmosphere. Stand around
the bar and sip draught Staropramen,
or decent wines by the glass, or retire
to the seats in the backroom. Also
features internationally influenced
bar food. Klauzál tér 2. No phone.
Metro: M1 to Opera. Tram: 4/6 to
Király utca. Map p 112.
11:43 PM Page 117
117
Budapest Nightlife A to Z
Fat Mo’s PEST A fun speak-easy
style joint, it has a long bar and inti-
mate dance floor. Fat Mo’s is for
those who want to avoid the big
club experience but still want to get
down and boogie. Nyáry Pál utca
11. y 1/267-3199. Metro: M3 to Fer-
enciek tere or Kálvin tér. Map p 112.
★★★ Gresham Bar PEST Try
the magical martinis in this pricey
but classy cocktail bar, which adds
grasshopper motives and an
alabaster ceiling to Art Nouveau sur-
roundings. Four Seasons Gresham
Palace Hotel, Roosevelt tér 5–6.
y 1/268-5100. Metro: M1 to Vörös-
marty tér. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér.
Map p 112.
Helvécia Sörözó PEST Atmos-
pheric cellar pub but one that’s
clean, fun, and without the alcohol-
inflicted grime so common in similar
venues. Lots of 70s rock posters and
music memorabilia, plus a pool table.
Eötvös utca 23/b. y 1/332-0207.
Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
★ Incognito PEST Long-estab-
lished favorite in über trendy Liszt
Ferenc Square with more character
than most. A fitting jazz soundtrack
goes with the more discerning
crowd but there’s still a flirty edge.
Liszt Ferenc tér 3. y 1/342-1471.
Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to
Oktogon. Map p 112.
★★★ Instant PEST This new kid
on the alternative block is already
drawing in hordes with its unique
look and layout. Join the crowd in
the covered courtyard or explore
the nooks and crannies upstairs
where you’ll find several bars each
with their own vibe. Look out for the
dentist’s chair. Nagymezö utca 38.
Metro: M1 to Opera. Tram: 4/6 to
Oktogon. Map p 112.
Irish Cat PEST A steamy week-
end atmosphere warms up winter
nights as dancing breaks out around
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The Best Nightlife
Old memorabilia adorns the walls at Lánchid Sörözó.
the bar fueled by an enthusiastic
mixed age and nationality crowd.
Guinness and food also served.
Múzeum körút 41. y 1/266-4085.
Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. Map p 112.
★ Jelen PEST The ‘Boys Don’t
Cry’ poster by The Cure at the
entrance of Jelen welcomes those
looking to relive their student days.
Serbian and Hungarian food is
served. Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (corner
of Márkus Emília utca and Stáhly
utca). y 0626/344-3155. Metro:
M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram: 4/6.
Map p 112.
★ Katapult Café & Pub PEST
Fun and colorful bar with DJ
evenings, live music or just a Nir-
vana soundtrack. The terrace looks
immediately out to the stunning
Great Synagogue directly over the
road. Dohány utca 1. y 1/266-7226.
Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112.
★★ Kiadó Kocsma PEST Cool
hangout with an arty intellectual
library booth-like setting downstairs
and a bright street-level café
upstairs. Decent pub grub, Magyar
style. Jókai tér 3. y 1/331-1955.
Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to
Oktogon. Map p 112.
★★ Kuplung PEST The ‘Clutch’
is a grungy underground Boho
11:43 PM Page 118
hangout that was once a garage and
still looks like one except for the
very long bar, seats, and tables.
Football tables and a ping-pong
table are on hand for those up
to the challenge. Király utca 46.
y 0630/986-8856. Metro: M1 to
Opera. Map p 112.
Lánchíd Sörözó BUDA A great
place for a beer after a hard day’s
Buda sightseeing. Simple and unpre-
tentious, and decked out in old
memorabilia, the welcome is a
warm one. This was my favorite
watering hole when I worked close
by. Fó utca 4. y 1/214-3144. Tram:
19 to to Clark Ádám tér. Bus: 86/105
to Clark Ádám tér. Map p 111.
★ Museum Cukrászda PEST
A busy cake and coffee shop by day,
and by night a favorite of assorted
revelers who come to sober up on
solids—but often keep on drinking
until the sun comes up. Cute terrace
that’s nice for seeing in the new day.
Múzeum körút 10. y 1/452-0888.
Metro: M2 to Astoria.
★★ Negro PEST Dark and sultry
chichi lounge room/cocktail bar with
a summer terrace leading onto the
stunning basilica-dominated Szent
István tér. The bar is actually located
in the square’s only ugly building,
meaning you see the square at
11_697580-ch07.qxp 2/5/09
its best. Szent István tér 11. y 1/
302-0136. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilin-
szky út. Map p 112.
Noiret PEST Pool and darts cellar
with a party vibe and a jukebox
pumping out greatest hits sound-
tracks. It also has a single snooker
table and a separate non-smoking
pool area. Dessewffy utca 8–10 (cor-
ner of Hajos utca). y 1/331-6103.
Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Map
p 112.
Old Man’s Music Pub PEST
Good late on for a last drink and a
free dance to old classics, or for
local rock gigs. The mature female
clientele make this music pub just as
much the ‘Old Girl’s’ as the ‘Old
Man’s’. Akácfa utca 13. y 1/322-
7645. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér.
Tram: 4/6. Map p 112.
★★ Oscar Café BUDA A city
slickers-oriented Buda bar that’s
known for top cocktails, good wine,
and draught beer, which pardons
the now-dated Hollywood theme
that, fortunately, is hidden with the
dim lighting. Ostrom utca 14.
y 1/212-8017. Metro: M2 to
Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6. Map p 111.
★ Paris Texas PEST An old
favorite on the trendy Ráday utca
party strip, whose venues often lack
substance over style. Here, how-
ever, the pictures on the wall of
Museum Cukrászda.
11:44 PM Page 119
119
Budapest Nightlife A to Z
friendly faces are welcoming as you
settle down for a drink in this real
pub atmosphere. The seats outside
are pleasant too. Ráday utca 22.
y 1/218-0570. Metro: M3 to Kálvin
tér. Tram: 47/49. Map p 112.
★ Paulaner Brauhaus BUDA A
huge German gastro beer hall with
beer brewed on site, and the fact it’s
in a shopping mall hardly detracts
from the experience. Wheat beer is
búzasör in Hungarian, but the staff
will understand German ‘weißbier’.
Top floor of MOM Park, Alkotás utca
53. y 1/224-2020. Tram: 61 to
Csörsz utca. Map p 111.
★ Pótkulcs PEST Set behind a
nondescript gate, the ‘Spare Key’ is
easy to miss but difficult to leave.
Tavern-like on one side by the bar,
Pótkulcs becomes a grungy cellar on
the other. Popular with the student
and young alternative crowd, it also
serves plenty of veggie pub grub.
Csengery utca 65/B. y 1/269-1050.
Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6
to Nyugati pu. Map p 112.
★★ Sandokan Lisboa PEST
The colorfully tiled interior and
decaying townhouses on this pedes-
trian street, onto which the action
spills in summer, conjure up the city
of Lisbon. There may be no Por-
tuguese beer but the thirst-quench-
ing draught Spanish San Miguel is
close enough. Hajós utca 23 (corner
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120
The Best Nightlife
of Ó utca). y 1/302-7002. Metro:
M1 to Opera. Map p 112.
★★★ Sark PEST I’ve dropped
into the cool ‘Corner Bar’ many
times to meet up with friends before
embarking on a tour of District VII
nightspots only to spend the whole
evening there. Chat up upstairs, chill
out in the gallery or groove to music
down in the basement. Usually
attracts an alternative/student
crowd. Klauzál tér 14. y 1/328-0753.
Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Map p 112.
★ Sirály PEST A twisty staircase
connects this three-level arty venue
that’s everything from a buzzing bar-
cum-coffee house, to a concert and
theater venue, internet hotspot, exhi-
bition space, and occasional cinema.
Király utca 50. y 0620/957-2291.
Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Map p 112.
★★ Sixtus PEST Tiny bar with a
big personality, it’s a longtime home
to boho expats and likeminded arty
Hungarians. Slightly cliquey at first
sight, but everyone’s your friend
when the drinks start to flow. Nagy
Diófa utca 26–28. y 1/413-6722.
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram:
4/6 to Wesselényi utca. Map p 112.
★★★ Szimplakert PEST The
great survivor of temporary
nightspots that sprung up in derelict
Admire the Manga wallpaper at Szóda.
Page 120
buildings has made this, its second
location, its permanent home.
Shabby cool and expanding, with
free WiFi it seems to be many peo-
ple’s unofficial office. Kazinczy utca
14. No phone. Metro: M2 to Blaha
Lujza Astoria. Bus: 7 to Uránia. Map
p 112.
★★ Szóda PEST The alternative
ambience here is provided by a back-
drop of Japanese Manga comic strip
wallpaper, retro red plastic seats,
and soda siphons, attracting a young
arty crowd. There’s a fun dance floor
downstairs in fall and winter. Wes-
selényi utca 18. y 0670/389-6463.
Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényi utca. Metro:
M2 to Astoria. Map p 112.
★★ Vittula PEST Grungy hip cel-
lar bar frequented by a friendly and
up-for-it mixed nationality clientele.
The alternative rock soundtrack is
supplemented by occasional DJs. Ask
at the bar about Vittula’s art gallery.
Kertész utca 4. No phone. Metro: M2
to Blaha Lujza tér. Map p 112.
★ Wichmann PEST Classic
smoky drinking den in a lovely old
house that, along with the long
wooden tables and bar, give it an
old-world tavern feel. Cheap wine,
beer, and spirits are consumed by
the eclectic crowd with remarkable
speed. Kazinczy utca 55. y 1/322-
6174. Tram: 4 or 6 to Király utca.
Map p 112.
Wine Bars
★★ Andante BUDA Serious
wine bar in an elegant riverside
building next to the Chain Bridge
offering an extensive selection of
Hungarian wines with cold dishes to
match. Founders include winemaker
Zsolt Tiffán and the pop star Ákos.
Bem rakpart 2. y 1/457-0807.
Closed Sun & Mon. Metro: M2 to
Batthány tér. Map p 111.
Egri Borozó PEST Unpretentious
wine cellar with Flintstone furniture
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Budapest Nightlife A to Z
selling barrels of cheap and cheerful
vino in green ceramic jugs and
mugs. Not sure if it’s the quantity or
quality that gives the next-day
headache—but that’s a small price
to pay. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 72.
y 1/302-1724. Metro: M3 to Nyu-
gati pu. or Arany János utca. Tram:
4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 112.

Grinzingi PEST Rough-and-ready

wine bar with a great atmosphere
where five different types of wine
from the Mátra region flow in a
scary quantity. The chairs are
chunky and fixed to the floor so
nobody falls off. Veres Pálné utca
10. y 1/317-4624. Metro: M3 to Fer- Find an extensive selection of Hungarian
enciek tere. Map p 112. wines at Andante.

★★ L’enoteca PEST Cute Ital-

that swallows up people from all
ianate wine bar with a wide selec-
walks of life heading home from
tion of quality Hungarian and Italian
work. You certainly won’t find the
wines available by the glass and bot-
finest examples of the sumptuously
tle, plus cheese, hams, and salumis.
sweet Tokaji Aszú here (see p 150)
Great views to Buda from the street
but you will find a great wine cellar
terrace. Belgrád rakpart 13. y 1/486-
atmosphere and some hearty bites.
1665. Tram: 2 to Március 15. tér.
Falk Miksa utca 32. y 1/269-3143.
Map p 112.
Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Map
Mátravidéki Borozó BUDA p 112.
Hardened local drinkers occupy the
front bar area downing the cheap
Summer Bars/Venues
but quaffable wine from the Mátra.
★★★ Bed Beach HAJÓ-
The lady of the house keeps the
GYÁRISZIGET Whiter than white
place in tip-top condition and the
décor, the ideal backdrop for hot
cool rustic back room is very pleas-
hedonistic nights to hardcore dance
ant. Corvin tér 1. y 1/214-4020.
music on Budapest’s glitzy nightlife
Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. Map
island. The place to be seen but not
p 111.
for a quiet drink. Hajógyárisziget.
★ Tokaji Borozó PEST Descend y 0630/436-4400. Suburban train:
the steps into this crypt-like setting HÉV to Filatorigát. Map p 114.

Garden Party
The hot summer bars and venues are usually open May to Sep-
tember but sometimes open later due to bad weather. Many come
and go but the once listed are expected to be open in 2009 and
beyond.
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122
The Best Nightlife
★★ Cafe del Rio BUDA Dress in
your summer coolest and sip expen-
sive cocktails at this fancy outdoor
venue that pumps out dance music
to a backdrop of palm trees and
undeniably beautiful girls. Goldmann
György tér 1. y 0630/297-2158.
www.rio.hu. No cover Mon–Thur.
Ft 1,000 cover Fri–Sat after 11pm.
Tram: 4/6 to Petófi híd budai hídfó.
Map p 111.
ChaChaCha Kert MARGARET
ISLAND Sandwiched between ten-
nis courts and a sports stadium, this
outdoor venue goes from a relaxed
place to take an early evening drink
to groove central as everyone takes
to the al fresco dance floor (on hot
summer nights from Wednesday to
Saturday). After summer the action
moves indoors and underground to
a cool cellar labyrinth at Bajcsy
Zsilinszky út 63, close to Nuygati
Station. Tram: 4/ 6 to Margitsziget.
Bus: 26 to Szigeti bejáró. Map p 114.
Copacabana Party MARGARET
ISLAND Copacabana hosts regular
gigs at its pleasant riverside spot.
Take your drinks to the northern tip
of the island and hang off like Di
Caprio and Winslet in the movie
Titanic. Margitsziget (entrance
Trendy nightspot Holdudvar.
Page 122
from island under Árpád bridge).
y 1/239-1509. Bus: 26 to Zenélókút.
Map p 114.
★★★ Corvintetó PEST Set atop
a Socialist-era shopping complex,
Corvin is a cool spot on steamy
summer nights. The rooftop is open
summers only but the Bohemian
warehouse-type hangout is worth
checking out any time of year.
(You’ll need to climb several flights
of stairs.) Corvin Áruház; Blaha Lujza
tér 1–2 (entrance from Somogyi Béla
utca). y 0620/772-2984. Metro: M2
to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha
Lujza tér.
★★ Dürer kert PEST Drink and
think in this cool, less-frequented
courtyard of the Arts University.
Tree stumps, colorful lights plus DJs
and gigs at weekends with a fun
interior maze of extreme retro
rooms that are also open winters.
Ajtósi Dürer sor 19–21. y 1/789-
4444. Trolley bus: 74 to Ajtósi Dürer
sor. Map p 112.
★★ Fecske BUDA Relaxing and
airy rooftop location with cushioned
sofas overlooking the Komjádi swim-
ming pool. The aquatic theme
continues with views down the
Danube and sun beds. Food served.
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Budapest Nightlife A to Z
Árpád fejedelem útja 8. y 1/326-
0714. Bus: 6/60/86 to Császár-
Komjádi Uszoda. Map p 111.
★★★ Holdudvar MARGARET
ISLAND Converted from a famous
casino, this trendy nightspot suc-
cessfully marries old-world charm
with modern touches. The garden
bars are surrounded by trees, plus
there’s a gallery, dance floor, and a
restaurant. y 1/236-0155. Tram: 4/6
to Margitsziget. Bus: 26 to Hajós
Alfréd Uszoda. Map p 114.
★★ Kertem PEST The extremely
laid back ‘My Garden’ feels like Mumus.
everyone’s garden. Old vinyl discs
decorate the bar, while the sleeves
Danube at night, but the toilets
of incredibly schmaltzy looking
aren’t that idyllic. Kids’ play area.
singers line the route to the toilets.
Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Map
Christmas lights add funky color
p 114.
after dark. Olof Palme sétány 3.
Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Map p 112. Sziget Klub Terasz MARGARET
ISLAND Overlooking my favorite
★★★ Mumus PEST After a four-
tennis courts (p 89) and perched
year absence, Mumus returned in
above the Danube this is an enjoy-
2008 with its unique brand of alter-
able place for a quiet drink without
native art and decor that has
grunge or glamour. Margitsziget
been applied to this once derelict
(approx. 100m on left entering island
Jewish District townhouse. Colorful
from Margaret Bridge). y 0670/
entrance, installations, and a gallery
531-2955. Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget.
next to the toilet. Dob utca 18.
Map p 114.
No phone. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
Map p 112. Zöld Pardon BUDA Festival-like
atmosphere attracting an up-for-it
★★ Romkert BUDA Dramatically
student crowd. Varied attractions
situated between the river and the
include a lake bar you paddle up to,
foot of Gellért Hill, in the garden
a pálinka (fruit brandy) house, a
under the beautiful Turkish dome of
games and dance area plus loads of
the Rudás baths. There’s always a
live music. Southern side of Gold-
steady flow of cocktails and the
mann György tér. Tram: 4/6 to Petófi
music scene is set for a serious al
híd, Budai hídfó. Map p 111.
fresco party. Döbrentei tér 9 (Garden
of the Rudas Baths). Tram: 18/19 to
Döbrentei tér. Map p 111. Clubs
★★ B7 PEST Big booming
★ = Sark Kert MARGARET ‘rhythm and bling’ dance club in
ISLAND Next to the Danube bank
the heart of central Pest providing
on Margaret Island, this laidback,
glitzy nightlife action without having
slightly grungy and bamboo-laden
to trek out to the big clubs of
setting is ideal for a quiet drink and
Hajogyári Sziget. Nagymezó utca
a chat under the sun or stars. The
48–48. y 1/269-0573. www.b7.hu.
light shines enticingly off the
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The Best Nightlife
Admission varies. Open Wed–Sat.
Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera.
Map p 112.
★★ Club Inside/Buddha
Beach/Retro Beach PEST Pest
waterfront and riverside warehouses
converted and devoted to good
times. House, techno, and disco, plus
old classics are churned out. In sum-
mer, the party moves to retro-style
Buddha Beach and Retro Beach.
Közraktár utca 9–11. y 1/210-4872.
www.clubinside.hu. Entry to Club
Inside Ft 1,500 for men, women free.
Open Fri, Sat. Free entry to Buddha
Beach/Retro Beach, open every day
May–Sep. Tram: 2 to Közraktár utca.
Map p 112.
★★★ Dokk HAJÓGYÁRISZIGET
Über trendy club with top dance DJs
in a spacious converted warehouse
on Hajogyári Sziget (Boatyard
Island). The sight of so many beauti-
ful girls under one roof gets the
men’s pulses racing. The action
moves outdoors to Dock Beach in
summer. Hajógyárisziget 122.
y 0630/535-2747. Entry varies.
Dokk Beach free entry. Suburban
train: HÉV to Filatorigát. Map p 114.
★★★ Fészek Club PEST Amaz-
ing bijou artists’ cellar club with a
risqué atmosphere and borderline
bordello decoration. However, you
never know what you’re going to
get here—it ranges from seriously
arty one night to gangster bling the
next. Kertész utca 36. y 1/342-
6549. Free–Ft 300 cover. Tram: 4/6 to
Kiraly utca. Map p 112.
★★★ Piaf PEST This Budapest
classic rocks through till dawn with
Page 124
Parisian-style sleaze upstairs and a
greatest hits soundtrack down-
stairs. The slightly mature crowd
should know better but can’t resist
coming back. Ring the bell to get in.
Nagymezó utca 25. y 1/312-3823.
www.piafklub.hu. Ft 800 cover,
including one drink. Metro: M1 to
Oktogon or Opera. Tram: 4/6 to
Oktogon. Map p 112.
Gay & Lesbian
★★ Café Eklektika PEST The
same old lovely lesbian hospitality
as its like-named predecessor now
comes in a more mature location
and under a stucco ceiling. A great
hangout any time of day. Nagymezó
utca 30. y 1/266-1266. www.
eklektika.hu. Metro: M1 to Oktogon
or Opera. Map p 112.
★★ Capella PEST This Pest
three-level waterfront hotspot is a
bit too mixed for some as many
straights pile in for the midnight drag
show. Nevertheless, a lively crowd
twists the night away to dance and
disco in camped-up surroundings.
Belgrád rakpart 23. y 1/318-6231.
wwww.capella.hu. Admission varies.
Wed–Sat. Tram: 2 to Március 15 tér.
Map p 112.
★★★ CoXx Men’s Club PEST
Hidden gents’ club with themed
nights including macho, military
cruising, and a ‘bear club’.
Tastefully done but quite hardcore.
Dohány utca 38. y 1/344-4884.
www.coxx.hu. Ft 1,000 admission.
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér.
Map p 112.
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8 The Best Arts &

Entertainment
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The Best Arts & Entertainment
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Best Art Nouveau Auditorium Best Independent and Gay .

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te ru
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127

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12_697580-ch08.qxp 2/5/09 11:44 PM
130
The Best Arts & Entertainment
Arts & Entertainment A to Z
Art Galleries & Museums
★★★ Applied Arts Museum
PEST Porcelain once owned by the
Tsars, Habsburgs, and a bizarre
singing saint from Madrid star
among Art Nouveau objets indus-
triels. The museum also features
many temporary exhibitions and is a
good place to take kids who can join
interactive educational searches
(see p 115, bullet 8). Üllói út 33–37.
Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. Map
p 128.
Ernst Museum PEST Temporary
exhibition space that’s run by the
Múcsarnok, which focuses on ‘the-
matic solo and group exhibitions
that reflect on the social and urban
environment’. Anything from local to
Mexican artists can be exhibited.
Nagymezó utca 8. y 1/460-7000.
www.mucsarnok.hu. Tickets Ft 1,200.
Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 128.
★★★ Fine Arts Museum PEST
An outstanding collection of Span-
ish masters (see p 14, bullet 3)
plus other greats including Raphael,
Titian, Tiepolo, Brueghel the Elder,
Van Dyck, Jordaens, Rembrandt,
Reynolds, Constable, and the
Mai Manó Gallery, home to the Hungarian Foundation of Photography.
Page 130
part-Hungarian Dürer whose father
hailed from Hungary. @ 11⁄2–2 hr.
Come early when major temporary
exhibitions are running. Dózsa
György út 41. Overlooking Heroes
Square. y 1/469 7100. www.
szepmuveszeti.hu. Ft 1,200. Tues–
Sun 10am–5:30pm. Metro: M1 to
Hósök tere.
★ Ludwig Museum PEST
Lichtenstein, Warhol, and a Picasso
matador carousing with a naked
woman feature among contempo-
rary Magyar artists and their works.
Palace of Arts, Komor Marcell utca
1. y 1/555-3444. www.ludwig
museum.hu. Free for permanent
collection. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi
Kulturális Központ. Map p 128.
Mai Manó Gallery PEST
Photographer Manó Mai is the man
behind this suitably arty 1894 build-
ing. Home to the Hungarian Founda-
tion of Photography, it hosts varied
local and international photo exhibi-
tions. Chic adjoining bar. Nagymezó
utca 20. y 1/473-2666. www.
maimano.hu. Tickets Ft 700. Metro:
M1 to Opera. Map p 128.
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131

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

From Station to Station
An argument has ensued over the gleaming frescoes that adorn
the main waiting room at Keleti, Budapest’s neo-Baroque Eastern
train station. Dating back to 1884, but immaculately restored in
2008, much of the rest of the station, which is palatial in design and
dramatic in dimension, is pretty run down. Step into the interna-
tional ticket office to see the contrast or check the outside of the
building. The centerpiece features mythological figures sitting on a
rail car and pulled by angels down the tracks. It is flanked by further
elaborate paintings depicting the pillars of economy. Eiffel’s Nyugati
Station is an epic glass and iron structure that commuters barely
notice as they pile into Pest on their way to work. One of the side
buildings is home to a remarkably grand McDonalds. Otherwise,
nightclubs take up this prime space. For an excellent view from up
above, climb the stairs of the Skala shopping center opposite. In
2008 a roof-top bar was operating.

★★ Múcsarnok PEST Behind It’s so diverse that nothing would

the striking exterior of this neo-
Renaissance building lies a top exhi-
bition space, which holds up to six
major local and international con-
temporary visual art exhibitions
annually. Hósök tere. y 1/460-7014.
www.mucsarnok.hu. Tickets Ft 1,200.
Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Map p 128.
★★★ National Gallery BUDA
Look out for works by the darkly tal-
ented Mihály Munkácsy, the com-
pletely unique Tivadar Csontváry,
who Picasso once referred to as the
other great artist of the 20th century,
and Hungary’s very own Impression-
ist Rippl-Rónai. Buda Palace, Build-
ings A, B, C, D. Szent György tér 2.
www.mng.hu. y 0620/439-7420.
Tickets Ft 800. Bus: 16/16A/116 to
Dísz tér. Map p 127.
Arts Centers
★★★ = Millenáris BUDA
Über cool converted industrial
complex packed with urban art,
installations, and holds film
festivals, concerts and DJ nights.
surprise me. Nice outdoor area
for kids. Kis Rókus utca 16–20.
y 1/336-4000. www.millenaris.hu.
Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Moszkva
tér. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. Map
p 127.
Palace of Arts (Múvészetek
Palotája) PEST This high-tech
and chic art house is the center-
piece of the new ‘Millennium City
Center’ with the Ludwig Gallery,
Béla Bartók National Concert Hall,
and Festival Theater among its
attractions. Komor Marcell utca 1.
y 1/555-3001. Tram: 2 to Millenni-
umi Kulturális Központ. Map p 128.
★★★ Trafó House of Contem-
porary Arts PEST This hotbed
of cutting-edge expression plays
host to a variety of local and inter-
national performance arts, many of
which are accessible for non-Hun-
garian speakers. Liliom utca 41.
y 1/215-1600. www.trafo.hu. Tick-
ets vary. Metro: M2 to Ferenc Körút.
Map p 128.
12_697580-ch08.qxp 2/5/09 11:44 PM
132
The Best Arts & Entertainment
★★ VAM Design Center PEST
Impressive new arts center that
hosted the internationally renowned
Bodies exhibition in 2008. Its revolv-
ing exhibitions by local artists are
dramatically displayed around the
covered courtyard of this former
townhouse as well as in the side
rooms that were once apartments.
The pictures can be bought. Király
utca 26. y 1/666-3141. www.vam
design.hu. Tickets vary, courtyard
exhibitions free. Tram: 4/6 to Király
utca. Map p 128.
Classical Music Venues
★★ Béla Bartók National
Concert Hall PEST Home to the
Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra
led by the world-famous pianist
Zoltán Kocsis, this state-of-the-art
venue has the same dimensions
as a Gothic cathedral and the
acoustics to match. Palace of Arts,
Komor Marcell utca 1. y 1/555-
3300. Tickets vary. Tram: 2 to
Millenniumi Kulturális Központ.
Map p 128.
Erkel Színház PEST Socialist-
realist from the outside, but pleas-
ing acoustics from the inside.
Although I once saw Nick Cave and
the Bad Seeds here, it’s used mainly
to share Budapest’s opera and bal-
let burden with the Opera House
and Thalia Theater. Köztársaság tér
VAM Design Center.
Page 132
30. y 1/333-0540. www.opera.hu.
Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Blaha
Luiza tér. Map p 128.
★★★ Ferenc Liszt Music
Academy (Liszt Ferenc
Zeneakadémia) PEST Facing
funding cuts, this 130-year-old edu-
cation institution is paying for itself
by putting on more of its own con-
certs, featuring the cream of Hun-
garian talent. Regular performances
are held in the awesome Art Nou-
veau auditorium. An experience not
to be missed. See p 24, bullet 7.
Liszt Ferenc tér 8. y 1/342-0179.
Tickets vary. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.
Tram: 4/6 Oktogon. Map p 128.
★★★ Matthias Church
(Mátyás Templom) BUDA
Heavenly surroundings and
acoustics make for an outstanding
classical music experience. The kind
of place that is built to handle all that
Handel’s Messiah can throw at it.
Szentháromság tér 2. y 1/355-5657.
www.matyastemplom.hu. Tickets
vary. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Szen-
tháromság tér. Map p 127.
★★ Nádor Terem PEST The inti-
mate bijou Art Nouveau Nádor Hall,
hidden away in the Institute of the
Blind, is a prime venue for strings,
chamber music, and virtuoso per-
formances. Ajtósi Dürer sor 39.
y 1/ 344-7072. Closed Jul & Aug.
12_697580-ch08.qxp 2/5/09 11:44 PM Page 133

133

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

Tickets on sale before performance,
price varies. Metro: M1 to Mexikói
út. Map p 128.
★★ Óbudai Társakör ÓBUDA
The Franz Liszt Chamber Orchestra,
Budapest Strings, and Auer String
Quartet are regulars at this wonder-
fully restored enclave of ‘Old Buda’,
sadly a gatecrasher these days in
the realm of high rises. ‘Music in
the Garden’ in summer. Kiskorona
utca 7. y 1/250-0288. www.obudai
tarsaskor.hu. Tickets vary. Suburban
train: HÉV to Árpád híd. Map p 127.
★★★ Opera House PEST At the
cutting edge when it was opened by
Franz Joseph I in 1884, both in
terms of design and functionality,
the Opera House is desperate to
replace the creaking East German
stage and concrete pit to restore
the once-outstanding acoustics.
She still looks beautiful though,
and the great-value opera and ballet
is a must. (See p 8, bullet 3.)
Andrássy út 22. y 153-0170 for
tickets. www.opera.hu. Metro: M1 to
Opera.
Dance
★★ National Dance Theatre
BUDA Ballet, folk, modern, and
contemporary dance on tap in this
handsome theater, itself very much
part of the beauty of the Castle Dis-
trict. Színház utca 1–3. y 1/201-
4407. www.dancetheatre.hu. Tickets
vary. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér.
Map p 127.
Live Music
★★★ A38 Ship RIVER DANUBE
Local and international acts, includ-
ing names as big as John Cale on
this very hip Ukrainian ship. Indus-
trial cool bar in the engine room
and swanky restaurant top deck.
Moored next to Petófi híd (Petófi
Bridge). y 1/464-3940. www.
a38.hu. Tickets vary. Closed Sun.
Tram: 4/6 to Petófi híd, budai hídfó.
Map p 127.
Budapest Arena PEST The mul-
tipurpose Papp László Budapest
Sport Arena, to give this huge
spaceship-like building its full name,
replaced an older venue that burnt
down, and sadly wasn’t in place to

Movie Marvels
While the shopping mall cinemas are comfy and kitted out with
state-of-the-art movie technology—Arena Plaza (see p 78) even has
a VIP area—Budapest is also home to some cool art-house cinemas
and handsome old relics from the golden age of cinema. Múvész
(Teréz körút 30. y 1/332-6726) screens a wide range of mainly less-
commercial films, new and not so new. Örökmozgó (Erzsébet körút
39. y 1/342-2167) and Cirko-geyzir (Balassi Bálint utca 15–17. y 1/
269-1915) are seriously offbeat while the Moorish-influenced Uránia
(Rákóczi út 21. y 1/486-3413) has been restored to its fin-de-siècle
splendor and has viewing boxes that make for a special experience.
Both the mall and arthouse types of mozi (cinema) show plenty of
films in English. The weekly Budapest Sun has cinema listings and
English language portal Xpatloop.com has a search function.
12_697580-ch08.qxp 2/5/09 11:44 PM Page 134

134
The Best Arts & Entertainment
host the likes of Guns ‘n’ Roses in Tickets vary. Tram: 47 to Kalotaszeg
their heyday. However, there are utca. Map p 127.
plenty of their present-day comtem- ★★ Giero PEST Tiny cellar place
poraries: fellow stadium rockers
where Gypsy Jazz musicians meet
Coldplay made it here in fall 2008.
up to jam and hang out. Electric
y 1/422-2600. www.budapest atmosphere and decent rustic cook-
arena.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to
ing. Free, but a few tips get them to
Stadionok. Map p 128.
really go for it. Paulay Ede utca 56.
★ Columbus Jazz Club DANUBE Free entry. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.
This is the place to tap into the local Map p 128.
jazz scene. Prices for drinks, how- ★★★ Gödör PEST Weird, won-
ever, are high on this slightly cheap-
derful, and varied program of con-
looking floating jazz venue, but the
certs sees all the beats from across
music makes up for it. Permanently
the globe sounding in this stylish
moored close to Vigadó tér. y 1/
subterranean setting under Erszebet
266-9013. Tickets vary. Tram: 2 to
tér. Local gypsy greats Romano
Vigadó tér. Map p 128.
Drom are a feature. Nice outdoor
Filter Klub PEST Absolutely no bit. Erzsébet tér. y 0620/201-3868.
filtering of the end product goes on www.godorklub.hu. Tickets vary,
in this raw hard rock hangout. often no cover charge. Metro:
Plenty of young punk bands strut M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 128.
their stuff for free, especially on
PECSA PEST This retro kitsch
school nights. Almássy utca 1.
venue attracts the likes of big less-
y 0630/921-4212. Free entry. commercial stars like Morrissey and
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram:
Nick Cave. (See p 48, bullet 8.)
4/6 to Wesselényii utca or Blaha
Lujza tér. Map p 128. ★★★ Trafó Bár Tangó PEST
The cellar club of the truly progres-
★★★ Fonó Budai Zeneház
sive Trafó unsurprisingly pulls in
BUDA Top Hungarian and Transyl-
many budding alternative bands,
vanian folk acts on Wednesdays,
plus the likes of legendary Creation
with powerful and unrestrained
Records founder Alan McGee who
Csángó, a folk style from a Hungar-
has a residency here with his Death
ian minority hailing from deepest
Disco. Liliom utca 41. y 1/456-
Romania and Moldavia. Gypsy
2053. www.trafo.hu. Tickets vary.
dance classes, too. Sztregova utca
Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. Tram: 4/6
3. y 1/206-5300. www.fono.hu.
to Ferenc körút. Map p 128.

The multi-purpose Budapest Arena.

13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09 11:45 PM Page 135

9 The Best Lodging

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136
The Best Lodging
Lodging Best Bets
Áld
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Best Art Deco Hotel .

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te ru
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$$–$$$$ Andrassy út 111 (p 140)
Best Art Nouveau Hotel
Bimbó út
★★★ Four Seasons Hotel
Gresham Palace Budapest Keleti Ká
roly u
$$$$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 5–6 Kis
Ró
(p 142) ku
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Park
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Lö
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há
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Best Boutique Hotel

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utca 19–21 (p 143) Vérmez

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Csere János utca 4 (Map p 144);
Best Restored Old Favorites
★★★ Four Seasons Hotel
★★★ Boscolo New York Palace
Gresham Palace Budapest
$$–$$$$$ Erzsébet 9–11 (p 140); Avar
$$$$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 5–6
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út

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ori

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Best Spa Hotels

Alkotás u.

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★Uhu Villa, Kesely utca 1 (p 144)
Margitsziget $$ Margitsziget Hegya
(Margaret Island) (p 141); ★ Danubius Best When Money is No Ot
Health Spa Resort Helia $$ Kárpát Object
utca 62–64 (p 141); ★ Ramada Plaza ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gresham
$$–$$$$$ Árpád fejedelem útja 94 Palace Budapest $$$$–$$$$$
(p 144) Roosevelt tér 5–6 (p 142)
13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09 11:45 PM Page 137

137

Lodging Best Bets

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Lodging Best Bets

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FERENC
M KÖRÚT
Futó u.

Iparművészeti
. Múzeum Tömő u. Medosz 17
si u
Nagy

Üllő
niz i út NH Hotel 18
ENCVÁROS Tızo
ltó Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya 19
Bakáts u.
tér Klinikák Zara Boutique Hotel 20
13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09 11:45 PM
140
The Best Lodging
Budapest Lodging A to Z
★★ Andrássy Hotel MaMai-
son PEST Stylish Art Deco hotel
with all the mod cons and designer
furniture to match. Close to Heroes
Square and houses fusion cuisine
benchmark Baraka (see p 103).
Andrássy út 111. y 1/462-2100.
www.andrassyhotel.com. 70 units.
Doubles 105–395
. Breakfast 20
.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Bajza
utca or H_sök tere. Map p 138.
★ Atrium Fashion Hotel PEST
‘Fashion hotel’ with a striking
central atrium and minimalist bijou
rooms. The neighborhood is not
the most salubrious but it is lively
and central. Csokonai utca 14.
y 1/299-0777. www.atriumhotel
budapest.com. 57 units. Doubles
108–135
w/breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Metro: M3 to Blaha Lujza tér.
Map p 138.
★ Art’otel BUDA Chic with a
lovely Buda riverside setting plus
easy access to the Castle District
and Pest, and great views to the
Chain Bridge and Parliament. Art by
Donald Sultan. Bem rakpart 16–19.
y 1/487-9487. www.artotel.hu.
164 units. Doubles 198–318

The sumptuous Boscolo New York Palace.
Page 140
w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro:
M3 to Batthány tér. Map p 137.
= Beatrix Panzió BUDA
Clean and simple with a bit of a 70s
retro hangover, Beatrix has a relax-
ing homely atmosphere. Self-cater-
ing ‘Mediterranean’ apartments are
also available. Széher út 3. y 1/275-
0550. www.beatrixhotel.hu. 22 units.
Doubles 60–100
w/breakfast. No
credit cards. Tram: 18/56 to Kelemen
László utca. Map p 137.
★ Best Western Hotel Art
PEST Tucked away in a charming
and laidback narrow street just a
step away from the action, the Art
Deco columns recall this building’s
arty past while the modern rooms
are spotless. Király Pál utca 12.
y 1/266-2170. www.bwhotelart.hu.
32 units. Doubles 90–180
w/break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to
Kálvin tér. Map p 138.
★★★ Boscolo New York
Palace PEST Seriously sumptu-
ous from the moment you walk in
to the modern but classically influ-
enced Italianate lobby. Also houses
the legendary New York Coffee
13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09
House (see p 35). Erzsébet körút
9–11. y 1/886-6111. www.
boscolohotels.com. 107 units.
Doubles 169–509
w/breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 Blaha
Lujza tér. Map p 138.
★ Carlton Budapest CASTLE
DISTRICT Great location on a steep
quiet street at the foot of the Castle
District close to the Danube and
Chain Bridge. Immaculate but small-
ish rooms. Apor Péter utca 3.
y 1/224-0999. www.carltonhotel.hu.
95 units. Doubles 85–110
w/break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M2 to
Batthány tér. Map p 137.
Citadella Hotel BUDA Basic
hotel with five-star views over the
river to most of Pest and much of
Buda from where the Austrian occu-
piers used to keep watch over the
Magyars below. Citadella sétány.
y 1/466-5794. www.citadella.hu.
12 units. Doubles 46–51
without
breakfast. Breakfast 5
. Bus: 27 to
Búsuló Juhász (Citadella). Map p 137.
City Panzió Ring PEST Clean,
comfortable, reasonably priced, and
on major Pest thoroughfare close to
Margaret Island. A bit noisy overlook-
ing the street but brighter than the
facing courtyard. Szent István körút
22. y 1/340-5450 or 1/340-4884.
www.taverna.hu. 39 units. Doubles
76
w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro:
M2 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to
Nyugati pu. Map p 138.
★★★ Corinthia Grand Royal
Hotel PEST Behind the beautifully
restored Habsburg period façade
lies a seriously swish interior that
brilliantly combines the best of old
and new. The swanky rooms, awe-
some atrium, grand ballroom, and
spa facilities are a treat. Erzsébet
körút 43–49. y 1/479-4000. www.
corinthia.hu. www.corinthiahotels.
com. 414 units. Doubles 155
with-
out breakfast/350
w/breakfast.
11:45 PM Page 141
141
Budapest Lodging A to Z
Old world charm at Danubius Hotel Astoria.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Okto-
gon. Map p 138.
★★ Danubius Grand Hotel
Margitsziget MARGARET ISLAND
This handsome old-world riverside
building is handily connected to
the spa and sporting facilities
of its sportier-looking Margaret
Island twin by tunnel. Margitsziget.
y 1/889-4752. www.danubius
group.com/grandhotel. 164 units.
Doubles 137–180
w/breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 26 to Szállodák
(Hotels). Map p 138.
★ Danubius Health Spa
Resort Helia PEST A particularly
good option for business travelers
and conference planners where, after
a long day, guests can take advan-
tage of the spa and wellness facilities.
Kárpát utca 62–64. y 1/889-5800.
www.danubiusgroup.com/helia. 262
units. Doubles 104–214
w/break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to
Dózsa György út. Map p 138.
★★ Danubius Health Spa
Resort Margitsziget MARGARET
ISLAND Outstanding spa utilizing
leafy Margaret Island’s three ther-
mal springs and top wellness facili-
ties with classically furnished rooms
13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09
142
The Best Lodging
Elegant décor at Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe.
in this now not so modern hotel.
Margitsziget. y 1/889-4700. www.
danubiushotels.com/margitsziget.
267 units. Doubles 118–178
with-
out breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 26
to Szállodák (Hotels). Map p 138.
★★ Danubius Hotel Astoria
PEST Bastion of old-world charm in
a very central location. Clean and
comfortable with plenty of marble,
elaborate carpets, crystal chande-
liers, myriad mirrors, and stained-
glass windows. Kossuth Lajos utca
19–21. y 1/889-6000. www.
danubiusgroup.com/astoria. 135
units. Doubles 90–214
w/breakfast.
AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Astoria.
Map p 138.
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
Budapest.
11:45 PM Page 142
★★ Danubius Hotel Gellért
BUDA If you don’t demand mod-
ern luxuries like air conditioning and
free WiFi but value a unique lived-in
atmosphere then this could be your
place. Seriously eclectic. Szent
Gellért tér 1. y 1/889-5501. www.
danubiusgroup.com/gellert. 234
units. Doubles 70–240
. AE, DC, MC,
V. Tram: 18, 19, 47, 49 to Szent
Gellért tér. Map p 137.
Easy Hotel PEST Bargain prices
for clean, albeit orange, rooms in
downtown Pest. Book online in the
same way as budget air tickets
whereby the cheaper rooms sell
out first. Good choice for stag/
hen weekends. Eötvös utca 25/a.
www.easyhotel.com. 59 units.
Doubles 29– 50
without breakfast.
Pay over the internet with all major
credit cards. Tram: 4 or 6 to Okto-
gon. Map p 138.
★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gre-
sham Palace Budapest PEST
Looking right onto the splendor of
the Chain Bridge and with its stun-
ningly restored Art Nouveau interior
and rooms, outstanding service,
breakfasts and spa, this is the place
to splash out. The rooms keep an
elegant but not over-stated Art
Nouveau style. Roosevelt tér 5–6.
y 268 6000. www.fourseasons.
com/budapest. Doubles 290–410

w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 2
13_697580-ch09.qxp 2/5/09
to Roosevelt tér. Bus: 16 to Roo-
sevelt tér. Map p 138.
★★ Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe
PEST Immaculate rooms elegantly
furnished and true to the style of
this charming 1892 building, which
also houses the excellent Gerlóczy
coffee house. It overlooks a charm-
ing and less discovered square. Ger-
lóczy utca 1. y 1/501-4000. www.
gerloczy.hu/roomsdelux/. 15 units.
Doubles 85
without breakfast.
Breakfast 10
. AE, MC, V. Metro:
M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 138.
★ Hotel Astra BUDA Spacious
rooms with antique furniture in a
restored 300-year-old house. Spot-
lessly clean and comfortable, with
an atmosphere that many guests
say makes them feel at home. Vám
utca 6. y 1/214-1906. www.hotel
astra.hu. 12 units. Doubles 99–112
.
No credit cards. Metro: M2 to
Batthyány tér. Map p 137.
★ Hotel Panda BUDA Clean,
spacious, and colorful after a recent
renovation, this Socialist-era hotel
overlooks Bauhaus Pasaréti tér and
has a forward-thinking policy of
employing disabled people. Spa
facilities. Pasaréti út 133. y 1/394-
1932. www.budapesthotelpanda.hu.
29 units. Doubles 70–100
w/break-
fast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 5 to Pasaréti tér.
Map p 137.
★★ Kempinski Hotel Corvinus
PEST The King of Budapest’s luxury
Luxurious suite at the Lánchid 19 design
hotel.
11:45 PM Page 143
143
Budapest Lodging A to Z
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus.
hotels, until the Gresham Four
Seasons and Corinthia Grand Royal
came along to challenge its crown.
Although starting to look a bit dated
you can find some competitive prices
by booking ahead. Nice spa facilities.
Erzsébet tér 7–8. y 1/429 3777.
www.kempinski-budapest.com. 366
units. Doubles 129–299
without
breakfast, AE, DC, MC, V. Metro:
M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 138.
★★★ Lánchíd 19 BUDA Seri-
ously chic designer hotel with close
attention paid to detail and each
room decorated with its own unique
arty touches. Splash out on a suite,
lie in the bath, and watch the Danube
flow by. Lánchíd utca 19–21. y 1/419-
1900. www.lanchid19hotel.hu. 48
units. Doubles 162–240
. MC, V. Tram:
19 to Clark Ádám tér. Map p 137.
★★ Le Méridien Budapest PEST
A deceptive river vista on its website
taken in Buda aside, this classy and
central hotel is big boutique rather
than big chain and has a top French
restaurant, Le Bourbon. Erzsébet
tér 9–10. y 1/429-5500. www.le
meridien-budapest.com. 218 units.
Doubles from 239
. Breakfast 25
.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1, M2, M3 to
Deák tér. Map p 138.
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144
The Best Lodging
★★ Marriott PEST Recently
renovated from top to bottom
with rooms kitted out with the
mega-comfy Marriott Revive Bed-
ding and views over the river to the
Buda Palace to die for. Drink Bling
deluxe water in the AQVA Lounge
Bar. Apáczai Csere János utca 4.
y 1/486 5000. www.marriott.com.
364 units. 119–225
, excluding taxes
and breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro:
M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Tram: 2 to
Vigadó tér. Map p 138.

Medosz PEST The building could

be considered a Socialist period
monstrosity but it’s ideally located
in downtown Pest, well priced,
clean and comfortable, and just the
place for someone looking to sleep
behind the original ‘iron curtain’.
Surrounded by Pest nightlife.
Jókai tér 9. y 1/374-3000. www.
medoszhotel.hu. 67 units. Doubles
49–65
w/breakfast. MC, V. Metro:
M1 to Okogon. Tram: 4/6 to Okto-
gon. Map p 138.
★★ NH Hotel PEST Stylish and
exceedingly modern hotel tastefully
tucked away behind the Vígszínház,
the oldest theater in Budapest.
Great breakfast. Vígszínház utca 3.
y 1/814-0000. www.nh-hotels.com.
Doubles 99–196
without breakfast.
AE, DC, V, MC. Metro: M2 Nuygati.
Map p 138.
★ Ramada Plaza ÓBUDA
Luxury choice for business or pleas-
ure on the banks of the Danube in
Óbuda over the water from Mar-
garet Island. Excellent thermal and
wellness facilities on the site where
the Romans once bathed. Árpád
fejedelem útja 94. y 1/436-4100.
182 units. 120–2,000
w/breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V . Suburban railway:
HÉV to Árpád híd. Map p 137.
★★ Sofitel Budapest Maria
Dorottya PEST While new owner
Accor couldn’t change the Socialist-
era exterior, the French hotel group
Uhu Villa offers a quiet retreat within the
city limits.
has transformed the interior with
expertly applied modern touches
including a funky airplane in the
striking lobby. Top Danube views.
Roosevelt tér 2. y 1/2661234.
www.sofitel.com. 350 units.
94–350
double, 2,500
suite,
excluding taxes and breakfast. AE,
DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty
tér. Map p 138.
★ Uhu Villa BUDA Cozy, friendly,
and tastefully decorated with its
own swimming pool, Uhu offers
peace and quiet within the city lim-
its. Most love it but a few gripe
about its hilltop location, 10 minutes
on foot from the nearest tram stop.
Kesely utca 1/a. y 1/275-1002.
www.uhuvilla.hu. 12 units. Rooms
from 49
. AE, MC, V. Tram: 18/56 to
Akadémia. Map p 138.
★★ Zara Boutique Hotel Mini-
malism nicely executed with no
expense spared on furnishings, Zara
is a cool option in this enjoyable part
of downtown Pest. Só utca 6.
y 1/357-6170. www.zarahotels.
com. 74 units. Doubles 105–230

w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to
Kálvin tér. Map p 138.
14_697580-ch10.qxp 2/5/09 11:45 PM Page 145

10 The Best Day Trips

& Excursions
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The Best Day Trips & Excursions
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12 Árpá
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Page 146

10 Piliscsév
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147

The Danube Bend

O ne of the prettiest stretches of the entire length of the
Danube is blessed with three towns steeped in history, each of
which I describe here. You could, at a push, see all three in one day,
but a more manageable approach might involve Szentendre on one
day and Visegrád and Esztergom together on another. From Szen-
tendre it’s 22km/13.5 miles by road to Visegrad from where it’s
another 24km/15 miles to Esztergom. START: Batthány tér to take HÉV
suburban train to Szentendre; or Árpád híd bus station in Pest for
Visegrád; or Pest’s Nuygati station for Esztergom.

1 ★★★ Szentendre. Of all the Danube is a must and a look at the

easy short hops from Budapest, Belgrade Orthodox Church, with
Dunakeszi

Szentendre packs in the most his- its adjoining Serbian Orthodox

tory and color. The town is well on
the tourist radar and attracts large
numbers of visitors on a yearly basis.
The inhabitants of Szentendre are
well used to this, however; indeed,
foreigners were flocking here cen-
turies before the age of mass
Budakalász
Museum, is a poignant reminder of
Hungary’s neighbors’ influence on
the town. @ 1⁄2–1 day. Szentendre
Tourist Information Office, Dumtsa J.
utca 22. y 26/317-965. www.
szentendre.extra.hu. Last stop on
HÉV suburban train that starts at

tourism, especially the Serbs who Batthány tér (approx. 40 min).

settled in the town en masse in the
2 ★★★ Visegrád. The smallest
17th century. I like walking around
town in Hungary is towered over by
the beautiful cobbled Baroque main
Pomáz

an imposing medieval citadel, which

streets that run off the main square
along with the lower castle was orig-
and then losing the tourist hordes
inally built by Béla IV in the 13th
by exploring the steep, narrow
century to keep out the Mongols.
streets. Also, a walk along the
Csobánka

The Royal Palace dates from the

14th century when Charles Robert
The colourful town of Szentendre.
of Anjou moved the Royal Court
here. @ 3–4 hr. www.visegrad.hu.
Pilisvörösvar

Bus: from Szentendre or Árpád híd

bus station in Pest.
3 ★★★ Esztergom. Though the
center of the Hungarian Catholic
Church, Esztergom has a remark-
Piliscsaba

able number of bars, and in this

easy-going riverside border town,
like most frontier posts, there’s no
ci ú
t shortage of opportunities to have
s

fun. The biggest church in Hungary

Be

is situated on St. Thomas Hill, oppo-

site what must be one of Hungary’s
smallest. Climb up the hill and stare
over to Slovakia or walk over the
bridge and enjoy some fine Slova-
kian draught beer. @ 3–4 hr. Bus:
from Visegrád. Train: direct from
Pest’s Nyugati station.
 148
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
0 50 mi
UKRAINE
0 50 km
SLOVAKIA
7
Tokaj
Miskolc
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a
Tisz
1
Eger
AUSTRIA
Györ
2/5/09

4 Tatabánya Debrecen
BUDAPEST
2

Du
6 Szolnok
Veszprém
HUNGARY
11:45 PM

na (Danube)
3 Lake Kecskemét ROMANIA
Zalaegerszeg Balaton
Békéscsaba
1 Eger
SLOVENIA
A Wine Country Detour

2 Etyek
Page 148

Drava
Kaposvar Szekszárd 3 Lake Balaton
5 4 Pannonhalma
Pécs 5 Szekszárd
CROATIA 6 Somló
8 7 Tokaj
Wine Region SERBIA
8 Villány
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149

A Wine Country Detour

H ungary’s wines are one of its best-kept secrets and its
wine regions are an engaging blend of rustic charm and state-
of-the-art new wineries. You can increasingly turn up at wineries
without invitation, but it’s probably still best to call them beforehand.
While you can reach anywhere in Hungary and get back the same
day, it is worth staying over at most of its wine regions, especially
since Hungary has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy and a car is the
most convenient mode of transport. START: All regions can also be
reached by train or bus (check www.elvira.hu and www.volanbusz.hu
respectively for timetables).

1 ★★★ Eger. The region famous www.monarchiawinery.com) even

for the generally lowly reputed
mass-market Bull’s Blood now has
Bikavér Superior, a more refined,
limited-yield version of the classic
blend, as its flagship. The increas-
ingly sophisticated Central Euro-
pean indigenous grape Kékfrankos
forms the backbone of most Bikavér,
but don’t expect blockbusting full-
SERBIA
lets you blend your own Bikavér.
140km/87 miles east of Budapest on
E71/M3, taking E71/M3 then exit 114
and road 33.
2 Etyek. Etyek makes for a nice
excursion in itself but its crispy
whites are all the more reason to
make the short 30km trip from

Budapest for. Up on Öreg hegy,

bodied reds, as the beauty of Eger
Etyeki Kúria (y 0630/9225-261)
reds is their balance and finesse.
has mastered reductive fruity style
With the climate comparable to Bur-
Pinot Gris but also look out for its
gundy, it is no wonder that Pinot
rustically elegant Királyleányka and
Noir features seriously. Also, a good
delicious Sauvignon Blanc. It has
region for whites––Monarchia winery
also pioneered red wine in the
(Verószala u. 66, y 0670/452-2626,

Wine growing around Lake Balaton.

Pécs
CROATIA
14_697580-ch10.qxp 2/5/09 11:45 PM
150
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
region with its Pinot Noir that won
the Best Pinot gong at 2008’s Pan-
non National Wine Contest.
30km/18.65 miles west of Budapest
on E60/M1, exiting at Biatorbágy.
3 Lake Balaton. The shores and
environs of the ‘Hungarian Sea’
present the Hungarian wine world in
microcosm. The black volcanic basalt
‘organ pipes’ that rise up at Badac-
sony set the tone for the area’s pre-
dominantly white mineral-infused
wines. Szeremley wines put Badac-
sony on the path to renown and
there is an excellent restaurant with
sweeping views of the lake. Saint
Orbán Wine House Restaurant at
Kisfaludy S. utca 5 in Badacsony.
y 87/431-382. www.szeremley.com.
M7 to Balaton.
4 Pannonhalma. Near the
town of Gyór, the Benedictine
Monastery of Pannonhalma (Pan-
nonhalma, Vár 1, y 96/570-171,
www.apatsagipinceszet.hu) is situ-
ated strikingly above a quant village.
The UNESCO-listed monastery is
well worth visiting in its own right
and has its own state-of-the-art
gravity-fed winery making very
promising Tramini, Riesling, Pinot
Noir, and a blockbusting fruit bomb
of a red called Infusio. 133km/82.5
miles west of Budapest on E60/
M1–82.
5 ★★ Szekszárd. Rapidly
emerging from the big red shadow
cast by Villány, Szekszárd is also
doing well in international competi-
tions with Bordeaux blends. The red
Kadarka grape is a local specialty
and can make delicious light but
spicy reds. One of its finest propo-
nents is the upcoming Bodri cellar
(Vitéz utca 1, y 0620/440-6666,
www.bodribor.hu), whose wines are
all good value in a region where the
Page 150
prices of some of the best-known
wines have become inflated. Unlike
in Villány, wineries are far apart.
180km/112 miles south of Budapest.
Take E73.
6 ★★★ Somló. Hungary’s small-
est wine region is known for its fiery
and spicy white wine. Even Britain’s
Queen Victoria loved it, especially
when she heard about the propen-
sity for women who imbibed wines
made from Somló grape Juhfark
(Sheep Tail) to mother male off-
spring. Sometimes, however, the
wines are just too rough and acidic
with too much mineral power. I sug-
gest visiting the Kreinbacher winery
(y 88/506-212), which has suc-
ceeded in making more polished,
better balanced and fruitier wines
that still have plenty of Somló.
164km/102 miles west of Budapest.
Take E71 / M7 until exit 64 and con-
nect with the E66 / 8 and head in the
direction of and then past Veszprém
to Somlóvásárhely where you will
see Somló Hill.
7 ★★★ Tokaj. Tokaj has the
world’s oldest wine classification
system and its sumptuous elixirs
were once the favorites of European
royalty. Sun King Louis XIV dubbed
Tokaji Aszú the ‘King of Wines, and
the Wine of Kings’. However, it’s the
winemaking that’s happening now
that makes this region so special.
Hungary’s one undeniably world-
class region is blessed with its posi-
tion at the confluence of the Bodrog
and Tisza rivers. The mist that rises
here enables ‘noble rot’ that con-
centrates the sweetness of wine.
The region is also privileged with
unique volcanic soils and a distinct
portfolio of grapes in the form of
Furmint and Hárslevelú. Since the
fall of Communism, investment has
piled in from those who know just
14_697580-ch10.qxp 2/5/09
how good this terroir is. The prob-
lem for Tokaj now is that sweet wine
isn’t the flavor of modern times. Yet
the taste of one of these sublime
elixirs, when made in the modern
style, emphasizes freshness and
sumptuous acidity, rather than overt
sweetness. Also, less intense late-
harvest styles and bone dry Fur-
mints are gaining ground. Disznókó
(at Mezózombor, the Mád-Tarcal
junction of the 37 road, y 47/569-
410, www.disznoko.hu) is one of the
easiest to visit, and one of the best,
as well as the first you’ll encounter
coming in from Budapest. Tokaj
town is 233km/144.8 miles north-
east of Budapest. Take E71/M3—
E71–E71/M30—E71/3 and take
junction 37 to enter the region.
8 ★★★ Villány. Attila Gere
whose blockbusting Bordeaux-style
reds helped put Hungary’s leading
red wine region in the spotlight,
both at home and to a certain
Villány, Hungary’s leading red wine region.
11:45 PM Page 151
151
A Wine Country Detour
extent abroad, has a large modern
winery and visitor center at Erkel
Ferenc utca 2/A, y 72 492-839,
www.gere.hu plus a cozy guest-
house in the village center at Diófás
tér 4, y 72 492-195. As it’s a sign
of the investment flowing into Vil-
lány that the Wunderlich winery
(opposite the Gere winery) wouldn’t
look out of place in California—
thankfully the winemaker is capable
of making wines to match the grand
ambition. While Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot are good here, it’s the
lesser-known Bordeaux varietal
Cabernet Franc that seems most
at home and capable of unique
expression. Local grape Portugieser
makes enjoyable easy-drinking reds.
Most of Villány’s wineries can be
accessed on foot, on and around
the high street. 234km/145.5 miles
south of Budapest. Take the same
direction as Szekszárd, passing it
and later taking road 57.
 152
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
Veszprém
0 8 mi Úrkút Papkeszi
72
Padragkút Szabadság Küngös
0 8 km Nemesvámos Puszta
Halimba Kövesgyüpuszta Balatonalmádi
71 Road Number Balatonakarattya
73
14_697580-ch10.qxp

Nyirád Ocs
Nagyvázsony Lovas
Balatonvilágos
Kapolcs 1 Balatonfüred 7
Ódörögd
2/5/09

Sóstó
Lake Balaton

Dörgicse M7
Uzsa 84 Hegyesd 4
71 2 Tihány Siófok

Tapolca Szentbékkálla Balatonakali Balatonszabadi

Zánka
Töreki 65
11:45 PM

Raposka Káptalantóti Balatonföldyár

Rezi Balaton Ságvár
Nemesgulács Révfülöp
Nemesvita
Badacsonytomaj Balatonszemes Som
71 7 Kereki Lulla
Badacsony Nagyberény
3 Keszthely Balatonboglár
Page 152

Pusztaszemes
Fonyód Bótapuszta Bábonymegyer
71 Szölöskislak
1 Balatonfüred
Kapoly
Somogytúr 2 Tihany
Balatonmáriafürdö
M7 Csisztapuszta Karád 3 Keszthely
7
Lengyeltóti 4 Siófok
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153

Lake Balaton
T he oft dubbed ‘Hungarian Sea’ is circled by a range of var-
ied attractions and is much more than a place to go sailing with
the in crowd or bask on its banks. These contrasting towns will give
you an essence of Balaton and are best enjoyed over a few days
touring. START: The east tip of Balaton and all of these destinations can
be reached in as little as an hour by car from Budapest on the M7
highway and most places here can be reached within two hours but
allow extra time in peak periods. Trains depart regularly from Budapest’s
Déli station (for an interactive timetable go to www.elvira.hu).

1 ★★ Balatonfüred. The 2 ★★★ Tihany. This pretty penin-

Kapoly

biggest resort town on the northern
shore has an elegant old-world-cum-
best-of-Communism feel, at least in
parts, which is surviving well along-
side the modern hotel develop-
ments. I enjoy walking around the
Karád
sula town is just 4km/2.5 miles from
Balatonfüred. The narrowest point
of the lake is topped off by the epic
twin-towered Benedictine Abbey
that hangs dramatically over the
lake. It features an eerie crypt

waterfront, stopping for some deep-
fried fish. The water is deeper here
on the northern side and better
suited to serious swimming. Bala-
tonfüred Tourist Information Office,
Kisfaludy utca 1. y 87/580-480.
Somogytúr
where you can read the engravings
on the tomb of András, Hungary’s
very first King of that name, buried
here in 1060. He also founded the
still-functioning Abbey. Tihany
Tourist Information Office, Kossuth

www.balatonfured.hu. utca 20. y 87/448-804. www.

tihany.hu.
Lengyeltóti

Lake Balaton.
3 ★★★ Keszthely. A rare pearl
of Baroque beauty after countless
repetitive resorts, Keszthely is home
to the Festetics Palace. The abode
of charitable counts, they built a
hospital and the world’s first agricul-
Csisztapuszta

tural university, the latter now being

part of the University of Pannonia.
Keszthely Tourist Information Office,
Kossuth utca 28. y 83/314-144.
www.keszthely.hu.
4 Siófok. This is the undisputed
party capital of Balaton, but it also
has some pleasant beaches away
from the action. The southern side
has a very shallow shelf around
Balatonmáriafürdö

waist height, which makes the water

warm. Accessible from Budapest by
Inter City trains it takes around two
hours and much less by car if you
drive as fast as a Hungarian. Siófok
Tourist Information Office, Víztorony
(Water Tower). y 84/315-355.
www.siofoktourism.com.
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154
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
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155

Pécs
P écs is often touted as the Hungarian town with a mellow
Mediterranean vibe, but you can also feel an influence from
the Eastern Mediterranean Muslim world. All that’s missing really is
the sea. A day trip to this joint European City of Culture (2010) can
be enjoyed on foot with all the attractions within close proximity to
each other, except for the TV Tower. START: Train from Déli pályaudvar
(Southern train station), Budapest then head to Széchenyi tér.

1 = ★★★ Széchenyi tér. underground burial chambers fea-

This sloping and striking old town tures lavish murals depicting Christ-
ian themes and memorial chapels
István u.

central square displays in its archi-

tecture some of the most significant
periods in the city’s history. The
u. Church of Saint Mary in Turkish
times was the Mosque of Pasha Gazi
Kasim and still has a praying niche
toward Mecca. Below it there’s a
novelde u.
Baroque holy statue, plus Baroque
buildings all around, and a remark-
e u. able Art Nouveau Zsolnay fountain.
gy
Me @ 45 min. Széchenyi tér.
2 ★★★ Early Christian Ceme-
tery. A short walk away, this
Maria u. UNESCO-listed series of 4th-century
The town Hall on Széchenyi tér.
tcájá
above ground. @ 45 min. Szent
István tér.
3 ★★ Pécs Cathedral. Impres-
sive neo-Romanesque cathedral
with four spires and elaborate fres-
coes from local and international
artists throughout. @ 45 min. Dóm
tér. y 72/513-030.
4 ★★★ Csontváry Museum.
Csontváry is my favorite of Hungar-
ian artists, particularly for his origi-
nality and ability to breathe new
life into tired themes. This compre-
hensive collection of his works is
housed in a lovely museum. @ 1 hr.
Janus Pannonius utca 11. y 72/
310-554.
5 ★★ Zsolnay Museum. The
tiles that adorn many of Budapest’s
finest buildings like St. Matthias
Church (see p 62) and the Applied
Arts Museum (see p 15) hail from
Pécs. If you’re a fan then don’t miss

the collection at this museum.

@ 45 min. Káptalan utca 2. y 72/
514-040.
Bajcsy Z

6 ★ TV Tower. Hike up the

silinszky

537m-high Misina peak and take the

lift up to the 75m lookout tower
u.

that stands on top of it for breath-

taking views. Its glass-walled café
will transport you back to a 1970s
spy movie. @ 2 hr. Misina tetó.
y 72/336-900. Ft 600. Open
9am–9/10pm in season.
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156
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
Eger
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157

Eger
E ger, together with its castle, is an iconic symbol of Hun-
garian defiance when the ‘Stars of Eger’ successfully repelled
a mammoth Turkish force in 1552, after Budapest fell in the 1540s.
Although the Turks took the town 44 years later in 1596 eventually,
when the Ottomans were safely dispatched back to Istanbul after 91
u. years in 1687, Eger rebuilt itself at the height of the Baroque period
más
ki Ta
Boly and the result is stunning, making for a sensational walking tour. All
. of the sights on this tour, except the Egerszalók thermal bathing
yu
v olg
sey complex, are within close proximity of each other. For more informa-
Vec
Gárdon

tion contact the Eger Tourist Information Office at Bajcsy-Zsilinsky

utca 9, y (06) 36/517-715. START: Train from Keleti pályaudvar (East-
yi Géza

ern railway station), Budapest then head to Eger Castle.

Bástya u.

1 = ★★★ Eger Castle.
According to legend, the brave
defenders of Eger Castle were
fuelled by Bulls Blood, Eger’s red
ózsa wine, during the five-week siege in
Me
the River Eger and has the Castle ris-
ing above it. However, as with so
many squares in Hungary, a Social-
ist-era monstrosity steps in to spoil
the party. In this case it’s more of a

gy tér 1552. Consisting of just 2,000 Mag- Baroque ball, and the impostor
kcs
ey

yars, and led by István Dobó, they comes in the form of the mini shop-
Alm

Is tván. u.

gy held off Ottoman forces 40 times ping center opposite the handsome
a

ar
u.
their size. The Turks apparently dual-spired Minorita Church. @ 45
thought the heroic Hungarians were min. Dobó tér.
imbibing the real blood of bulls. The
3 ★★ Minaret. This minaret is a
effects of the wine wore off by 1596
pointy reminder of Eger’s Ottoman
as Eger Castle fell, and so ensued a
occupation. It was once one of
91-year period of Ottoman rule.
many but is the only one to have
Meet the stars of the battle in the
survived, albeit with no mosque
István Dobó Museum within the
anc

attached, and as such is the north-

sics

Castle grounds. You’ll also find the

ernmost surviving monument from
Mih

tomb of Géza Gárdony, the author of

ály

the Turkish invasion. Scale the twist-

sét

The Stars of Eger, also known as the

ing staircase of 100 steps for
ány

‘Eclipse of the Crescent Moon’,

panoramic views of the town.
which depicts the events of 1552, as
well as a dungeon. @ 1 hr. y 36/ @ 45 min. Knézich utca 1. Admis-
agy u
. sion Ft 200. Open from Apr 1 to
312-450. Admission Ft 1,200 inc.
Oct 31, Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
museum, Ft 600 excluding museum.
Every day 8am–8pm May 1 to Aug 31, 4 = ★★ Eger Cathedral.
closing 7pm in Sep, Mar and earlier Seat of Eger’s bishopric and the sec-
in off-season (5pm Nov 1–Feb 28). ond biggest church in Hungary, this
József Hild-designed, neo-classical
2 = ★★ Dobó tér. To this day
cathedral (1836) is notable for the
Eger is a remarkably well-preserved
army of Christian statues towering
tour de force in Baroque architec-
above the columns at the entrance
ture. This is particularly evident in
and its three cupolas. It’s home
and around this central square that
to the biggest church organ in
is divided in two by the trickle that is
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The Best Day Trips & Excursions

Eger.

Hungary, whose magnificent and modern bathing complex is home to

earth-shattering tones can be heard 17 indoor and outdoor pools. The
at regular summer concerts or dur- resort is built around the incredible
ing services. @ 45 min. natural feature of a white limestone
and travertine hill that rises dramati-
5 = ★★★ Eger’s Thermal
cally out of Hungary’s green north-
Baths. A vast bathing complex
ern uplands. Egerszalók. Forrás út 4.
where you can spend long summer
days without getting in the least bit
y 36/688-500. www.egerszalok
furdo.hu. Admission Ft 1,200 for 3 hr
bored. Everything’s there from a
(deposit Ft 2,400). 10am–6pm Mon–
50m/164ft swimming pool to ther-
Thurs. 10am–8pm Fri–Sun. Lido open
mal pools that work against arthritis
every evening until 1am in summer.
and rheumatism. There’s even a
Buses heading to Verpelét and
thermal pond with a waterfall that
you can take a plunge in, as well as
pools, a ‘Wellness House’, a water
Gyöngyös stop in Egerszalók.
•
Eger Cathedral.
castle and slides for the kids plus
restaurant and cocktail bar. The
complex is also open for evening
bathing every Thursday, Friday, and
Saturday from 7pm to 11pm. Petófi
tér 2. Entrance from the Arch-
bishop’s Garden—throughout the
year, entrance from Petófi tér in
summer. y 36/314-142. www.eger
termal.hu. Admission Ft 1,250.
8:30am–7pm May 1–Sep 30. 9am–
7pm Oct 1–Apr 30.
6 = Egerszalók Thermal
Resort. Just 6km/3.7 miles outside
Eger at Egerszalók, this wonderful
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The
Savvy Traveler
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160
The Savvy Traveler
Before You Go
Government Tourist Offices
For the US: Hungarian National
Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Avenue,
Suite 7107, New York, NY 10118,
y: 212/695-1221, www.goto
hungary.com.
For the UK and Ireland: No
walk-in service but interested par-
ties are served via the website
www.gotohungary.co.uk and a 24-
hour English-language hotline on
00800 36 000 000, with calls free
from the UK.
Travelers from Canada and Aus-
tralia are not served directly but can
make enquiries through www.goto
hungary.com or through Hungarian
embassies.
The Best Time to Go
Budapest’s peak season runs from
May to September, but with July and
August often verging on the oppres-
sively hot. The city does, however,
have a wealth of baths that are a
godsend when temperatures soar.
May, June, and early September are
usually ideal temperature-wise.
August is a major vacation month so
be prepared to find a fair number of
restaurants, bars, and shops shut.
Budapest is a good all-year destina-
tion and despite its cold winters
there are plenty of indoor activities,
plus outdoor novelties like skating
and shopping at a Christmas market.
Hotel prices are significantly cheaper
in the off-season and the city is less
overrun with tourists, making a
strong case for an off-peak visit.
Festivals & Special Events
SPRING. The Budapest Spring Fes-
tival, a bevy of high culture includ-
ing opera, classical, chamber music,
dance, jazz, theater, and crossover,
takes place during the last two
weeks of March. It has featured
many prominent international
11:46 PM Page 160
guests as well as the cream of local
talent. Contact: www.btf.hu. On the
last weekend of the Spring Festival,
the offbeat Budapest Fringe Festi-
val is described by its organizers as
one big talent show, with everything
from punk bands to acrobats and
belly dancers. The hip arts melting
pot of Millenáris is among the main
venues (p 131). Contact: Bernadett
Gárdos (y 1/486-3326), gardos@
budapestfringe.com.
Film fanatics get square-eyed at
the Titanic Film Festival, which
runs for 10 days at the end of March
or the beginning of April and shows
many Hungarian and international
films, often ahead of their release
dates. It runs simultaneously in the
magnificent Art Nouveau-influenced
Uránia and the arthouse cinemas of
Toldi, Vörösmarty, and the Örök-
mozgó Film Museum. Contact:
Balázs Vízer (y 0620/551-4927]),
film@titanicfilmfest.hu.
SUMMER. On the summer solstice,
June 27 in 2009, Múzeumok Éjsza-
kája (Night of the Museums) allows
culture vultures to visit many of the
city’s museums until 2am at seriously
discounted prices (e.g. Ft 1,200 in
2007), while special buses are laid on
by the Budapest transport company,
BKV, to whisk participants between
the museums. Tickets can be pur-
chased at museums and some BKV
ticket booths. Contact: www.
muzeumokejszakaja.hu.
Although the main concert sea-
son runs from late September to
early June, the Budafest Summer
Festival sees the classical concerts,
opera, and ballet continue through-
out July at Szent István Basilica,
the Hilton Dominican Court, and on
Margaret Island, with Klezmer and
folk music also included. Contact:
y 1/332-4816, viparts@viparts.hu.
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On weekends in the second half
of June to the second half of August,
look out for ‘Summer on the Chain
Bridge’, with stages on both sides of
the bridge, and plenty of craftspeo-
ple exhibiting their wares on and
around the bridge (which is closed to
traffic). Lots of festival bites to eat are
available, including the classic Tran-
sylvanian hollow whirly pastry known
as kalács, which you can witness
being made.
Hungary’s answer to the UK’s
Glastonbury and America’s Lolla-
palooza, the Sziget Festival takes
place for just under a week in mid-
August on an island (Hajógyári-
sziget) within the city limits, so
there’s no need to camp out. Tickets
for the 6-day event cost Ft 37,500
and Ft 30,000 respectively for camp-
ing and non-camping tickets, and Ft
8,000 per day (at the time of writ-
ing). The festival has featured many
big names from The Cure, Iggy Pop,
The Killers to Iron Maiden and
underground international acts and
leading world music performers, as
well as many local artists, even Hari
Krishna bands. There are many
other typical festival attractions
such as bungee jumping and abseil-
ing. You can take a ferry from down-
town Pest right into the action. A
record 385,000 visitors attended
the 2008 event. Contact:
info@sziget.hu.
On St. Stephen’s Day on August
20, hordes of Hungarians take to the
Danube banks between Margaret
Bridge and Szabadság Bridge to
watch a stunning firework display.
FALL. During the first week of Sep-
tember, the Jewish Summer Festi-
val sees a variety of concerts,
including those by Israeli pop stars,
at key venues in the Jewish district
with the stunning Great Synagogue,
also known as Dohány utca Syna-
gogue, at the center. Contact: y 1/
343-0420. www.jewishfestival.hu.
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161
Before You Go
Just about anyone who is anyone
in the world of Hungarian wine puts
in an appearance at the Budapest
International Wine Festival
that occupies the Buda Palace’s
grounds from Wednesday to Sunday
around the middle of September.
Contact: y 1/203-8507, www.
aborfesztival.hu.
In October things get seriously
abstract during the Budapest
Autumn Festival with lots of cut-
ting-edge performance art, modern
dance, offbeat exhibitions, and all
that jazz. Contact: Festival director
Zsófia Zimányi. y 1/486-3300.
info@festivalcity.hu; http://bof.hu.
On All Saint’s Day, November 1,
Hungarians visit cemeteries to pay
their respects to departed relatives.
More beautiful than macabre, ceme-
teries are lit up with candles and
Kerepesi Cemetery, also known as
Fiumei Úti Sírkert, at Fiumei út 16 in
District VIII is the most spectacular.
WINTER. Christmas is a quiet family
affair with the main celebration on
the evening of December 24, while
everyone comes out to party for the
New Year, some even starting
before noon on New Year’s Eve at
the races at Kincsem Park (60km
from Budapest).
The Weather
Hungary has a continental climate
with hot summers and cold winters
where temperatures often linger
below freezing point. Summers are
hot and long, occasionally uncom-
fortable, with temperatures often
hitting the high 80–90F/30C as early
as mid-June and sometimes staying
there until mid-September. The
changeover to cooler temperatures
at the end of September or October
can leave people wondering what’s
happened to fall, and vice versa to
spring in May. However, like many
other countries in the world these
days, precise temperatures are
increasingly difficult to predict as
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The Savvy Traveler
AVERAGE TEMPERATURES
JAN FEB
Daily Temp. (°C) -1 1 6
Daily Temp. (°F) 30 38
JULY AUG
Daily Temp. (°C) 21 21
Daily Temp. (°F) 70 70
Source: www.topbudapest.org
the effects of climate change take
hold. An extremely mild Mediter-
ranean-type winter can be followed
by a typically cold one
Useful Websites
• www.budapestinfo.hu is
Budapest’s official tourism web-
site and includes information on
events, key sights, and the city’s
baths.
• www.festivalcity.hu contains
detailed information on the
Spring, Autumn, Fringe, and
Summer on the Chain Bridge
festivals.
• www.budapest.com is the
city’s travel and commercial por-
tal and has a hotel booking
search engine that gives instant
confirmation.
• www.elvira.hu is an interactive
train timetable that’s accessible
in English.
• www.bkv.hu provides detailed
information on the city’s public
transport system.
• www.xpatloop.com,
expatshungary.com & www.
caboodle.hu are English-
language sites that provide lots
of practical information concern-
ing life in Hungary. The latter’s
sister gastronomic site www.
chew.hu contains detailed infor-
mation on Hungary’s cuisine and
the culinary scene.
11:46 PM Page 162
MAR APR MAY JUNE
11 16 19
43 52 61 66
SEPT OCT NOV DEC
16 11 5 1
61 52 41 38
• www.bbj.hu, www.budapest
times.hu & www.budapest
sun.com are the main English-
language newspapers and also
come in print form.
Cell Phones
If your phone has GSM capability,
then your mobile will work in
Budapest. Roaming rates within the
European Union have been cut dras-
tically by regulators, making it much
cheaper to use your phone in Hun-
gary. Check with your operator
before you leave. www.apartments
inbudapest.com rents out mobile
phones for 39
per booking, not
per day, with 80 free outgoing local
minutes.
Car Rentals
With public transport still connect-
ing the four corners of the city with
relative ease, it is unlikely that you
will need to rent a car. A rented car
does come in handy though if you’re
looking to make excursions beyond
the city limits. Prices are generally
cheaper if you book online before
you arrive in Budapest. Fox
Autorent (www.fox-autorent.com)
is a renowned local independent
rental firm, while the likes of AVIS
(www.avis.com) and HERTZ
(www.hertz.com) have offices at the
airport and across the city.
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Getting There
By Plane
Budapest has one major airport,
Ferihegy, which is located 15km/9.3
miles from downtown and divided
into Terminal 1 and 2, with the latter
subsequently split into Terminal 2A
and 2B. Terminal 1 is mainly used by
budget operators. The 200E bus
connects both terminals and runs to
Kóbánya-Kispest metro station
where you can catch a metro to the
downtown. Zóna Taxi (y 1/365-
5555, www.zonataxi.eu) operates a
reliable taxi service for Ft 3,600 to
Ft 4,400 one way, the price depend-
ing on which of their zones your
final destination lies in. Purchase
taxi vouchers at the designated
Zóna booths that you’ll find directly
outside the terminals. The Airport
Shuttle (y 1/296-8555, www.
airportshuttle.hu) mini bus service
also runs from both terminals and
the booking desks are located close
to arrivals. A single ticket costs Ft
2,990 and a return is Ft 4,990. Book
your return route no later than 24
hours before departure to ensure
getting a return seat. Allow plenty
of time for this option as other peo-
ple are also being taken to their
hotels and lodgings. On the return
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Budapest’s public transport system
efficiently links all corners of the city
and its coverage is dense. It may be
getting a bit creaky and dated, as it
hasn’t changed radically since the
1970s when it was considered a
benchmark of Socialist planning,
although newer buses and trams
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163
Getting Around
leg they pick you up at your accom-
modation.
By Car
All major Hungarian roads lead to
Budapest and a car provides a use-
ful way of getting to the Hungarian
capital, although once in the city the
driver will have the busy traffic and
aggressive drivers to contend with.
Try to enter or exit the city outside
of rush hour (7am to 9pm and
4:30pm to 6:30pm) and you’ll cut
significant time off your journey.
By Train
Budapest has three main stations,
which are named after the directions
they originally served and to some
extent still do. As well as Eastern des-
tinations Keleti (Eastern) also handles
most trains to Prague and Vienna.
The other two are Nuygati (Western)
and Déli (Southern), with trains from
the latter going to Lake Balaton as
well as Ljubljana and Zagreb.
By Bus
Budapest’s new modern bus station
is slightly out of the center at
Népliget but it is connected to the
metro system. Eurolines arrives and
departs from here.
are being rolled out continuously.
All parts of the city are covered in
detail, whether it be by metro, tram,
trolley-bus, or bus. Single tickets (Ft
290) or a book of 10 for Ft 2,600 can
usually be bought at booths next to
the bus stop or station, but it’s
advisable to stock up. Specific ticket
kiosks at metro stations sell a wide
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The Savvy Traveler
range of tickets and passes. Validate
tickets at the top of the escalators
before you get on the metro and as
you get on trams and buses. One-
day, three-day and seven-day travel-
cards that provide unlimited travel
cost Ft 1,500, Ft 3,700 and Ft 4,400
respectively, although you need to
provide a passport-sized photo for
the latter. There is also the option of
buying a family ticket for Ft 2,100.
This will give 48 hours unlimited
travel for 1 or 2 adults with 1 to 7
children between the ages of 6
and 14.
On Foot
Much of the center can be covered
on foot and this is also the best way
of seeing beyond the city’s key
sights, which is where much of
Budapest’s charm lies. On foot you
can appreciate the scale of the
early 20th-century building phenom-
enon that gave Budapest its defin-
ing look.
Fast Facts
APARTMENT RENTALS Dunahouse
(www.dunahouse.hu) offers many
apartments for rent (and sale) and
has a huge network of offices across
the city. IBUSZ (www.ibusz.hu) has a
private accommodation service at
Ferenciek tere 10 (y 1/485-2767),
which provides a homely alternative
to staying in a hotel as well as short-
term rentals. Www.budarpads.com
has shorter as well as long-term
rentals.
ATMS/CASHPOINTS The easiest and
most recommendable way to get
cash in Budapest is to gain direct
access to your account via one of
the plethora of ATMs that offer
MAESTRO, VISA and MASTERCARD
and are now on most downtown
streets. Although banks charge a
11:46 PM Page 164
By Taxi
Taxis are abundant and are usually
cheaper when you call one as
opposed to flagging them down.
However, the operators of many taxi
firms don’t speak English. Rates vary
between operators but these three
listed companies provide very com-
petitive rates: City Taxi (y 1/211-
1111), Tele5Taxi (y 1/555-5555),
FÓTaxi (y 1/222-2222).
By Car
Hungarians love to drive and usually
aggressively at that. Consequently,
with the roads so busy and the
actions of the local driver unpre-
dictable, driving around the center
can be a headache to say the least
and is only for those who love the
thrill of city driving in a new environ-
ment. Parking spaces are often hard
to come by. Parking tickets are
required in many central zones and
are bought from coin-operated
machines.
fee per withdrawal, it still remains
the safest and best option as trans-
actions are carried out according to
a generally favorable wholesale
exchange rate. At larger banks you
can step in off the street to use the
bank machines and security cam-
eras are operated.
BABYSITTING Babysitter Training
and Agency Center www.babaklub.
com has a babysitter and au pair
search function and uses only quali-
fied babysitters, many of whom
speak English. You can also use
the search function for babysitters
who speak English. The renowned
Korompay Family Day Care at Men-
esi út 19 in District 11 (y 1/466-
5740 or 0630/921-7820) also works
in the English language and is run by
former kindergarten teachers.
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BANKING HOURS Most banks are
open from Monday to Friday from
8am to 4pm, although some larger
branches of major banks stay open
until 5:30pm. Shops and hotels
often cash travelers checks but at
inferior rates to banks.
B&BS Local sites www.budapest
hotels.com, www.justbookit.hu and
the internationally popular www.
tripadvisor.com provide online
booking services for a wide range
of Budapest hotels and often offer
discounts compared to the regular
prices you get when approaching a
hotel direct. Tourist information por-
tal www.budapest.com also has a
hotel search and booking function.
BIKE RENTALS Budapestbike (www.
budapestbike.hu) at Wesselényi utca
18 in District VII rents new Gepida
Alboins for Ft 3,000 per day and
tandems for Ft 5,000 per day with
longer and shorter rentals also avail-
able. This enterprising company
also arranges baths and pub tours.
BUSINESS HOURS Shops tend to be
open from 10am to 6pm, although
many stay open until 8pm in shop-
ping malls.
CAR RENTALS Fox Autorent has
offices at the airport, plus the Inter-
continental and NH Hotels. See Car
Rentals earlier in this chapter on
p 162.
CUSTOMS Non-EU citizens over
the age of 16 can bring in 250ml eau
de cologne and 50g perfume, 200
cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250g
tobacco, or a combination of these,
up to 250g, while citizens from EU
countries can bring in 800 ciga-
rettes and much larger quantities of
alcohol.
Non-EU citizens are allowed to
enter with 1 litre of distilled alcohol
and 2 litres of wine, while EU citi-
zens are permitted to carry 90 litres
of wine and 110 litres of beer into
Hungary.
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165
Fast Facts
The same numbers apply when
departing Hungary.
DENTISTS (see Emergencies, below).
DINING Eating out in Budapest is
generally a casual affair with no
jacket required except for a few
exclusive restaurants (you should
enquire when making a booking).
ELECTRICITY Like the rest of conti-
nental Europe, Hungary uses two-
pin plugs and the 230V current.
Adapters can be bought in electrical
stores such as Media Markt.
EMBASSIES The Australian Embassy
is at Királyhágó tér 8–9, District 12,
y 1/457 9777; the Embassy of
Canada at Ganz utca 12–14, District
2, y 1/392-3360; the UK Embassy
at Harmincad utca 6, District 5,
y 1/266 2888; Ireland’s Embassy at
Gránit Torony in the Bank Center at
Szabadság tér 7–9 y 1/302-9600;
and the US Embassy at Szabadság
tér 12, y 1/475 4400.
EMERGENCIES SOS Dental Service
at Király uta 14 in District VI,
y 1/267-9602 and Stomatologia at
Szentkirályi utca 40 in District VIII,
y 1/317-6600 offers around-the-
clock dental treatment. Dial 104 for
an ambulance.
EVENT LISTINGS www.funzine.hu
has up-to-date information about
cultural events, and look out for the
print version free in hotels.
FAMILY TRAVEL The Budapest card
is valid for one adult and one child
up to 14 years of age costing Ft
6,500 and Ft 8,000 for 48 and 72
hours. It provides free travel and
many sightseeing benefits, including
free entry to numerous popular
sights (see Passes).
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS www.
budapest.gayguide.net provides
detailed information on accommo-
dation, cruising, restaurants,
saunas, events, etc.
Note: 2008’s Gay Pride march was
subject to vicious attacks from far
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The Savvy Traveler
right factions and as such it is uncer-
tain whether it will continue in 2009.
Despite this a lively gay scene has
started to develop, although unsur-
prisingly many people in Hungary still
choose to stay in the closet.
INSURANCE It is advisable to
arrange travel insurance before
departing your home country,
although local private medical fees
are reasonably priced. With its high
standards for a low cost, Hungary is
a serious health tourism destination,
especially for dental care. For EU cit-
izens emergency treatment is free
on presenting a European Health
Insurance Card (EHIC).
INTERNET ACCESS Internet cafes are
increasingly common and you are
likely to see them around downtown.
Fougou at Wesselényi utca 57 in Dis-
trict VII (fougou.uw.hu, y 1/787-
4888) also does photocopying, print-
ing, faxing, and scanning, from 7am
to 2am. Www.hotspotter.hu,
although in Hungarian, shows all
wireless internet hotspots on a map
with those marked in blue represent-
ing those that are free—click on the
flag and the address comes up.
LIMOS Www.limohungary.com and
www.onelimo.com handle suitably
flash fleets.
LOST PROPERTY If your luggage is
lost on arrival make a claim at the
airport immediately. Police stations
handle lost property. Check which
district your items were lost or
stolen in and go to that district’s
police station, although not much
ends up returned.
MONEY Hungary uses the Forint (Ft
or HUF). The exchange rate varies
and at the time of writing $1 was
worth Ft 181.5. Hungary is far from
a cashless society and the use of
credit cards is slowly catching on.
ORIENTATION TOURS City-Circle
Sightseeing (y 1/327-6690, www.
eurama.eu) runs a hop on/hop off
11:46 PM Page 166
city tour commencing every hour
from the Chain Bridge and Hotel
Intercontinental. Tickets cost Ft
4,500 and are valid for 24 hours.
Budapest vision (y 0630/
9222-111 or 0670/617-4010,
www.barbiebus.hu) operates 2-hr
bus tours for Ft 4,000, 3-hr for Ft
6,000 and a hop on/hop off service
for Ft 4,000, the latter including a 1-
hr boat tour. Children up to 11 years
old can ride for free. The meeting
points are next to Deák tér in front of
the Hotel Le Meridien or next to the
entrance of Deák tér in front of the
Evangelical Church on Erzsébet tér.
Cityrama (y 1/302-4382, www.
cityrama.hu) runs a wide variety of
tours in Budapest and beyond.
PASSES The Budapest Card costs
Ft 6,500 and Ft 8,000 for 48 and 72
hours respectively. It’s valid for one
adult and one child up to 14 years of
age and offers: unlimited travel on
public transport; free or discounted
entry to 60 museums and to several
sights; reduced price tickets for cul-
tural and folklore programs; dis-
counts in restaurants, spas, and on
car rental; travel accident insurance;
and other benefits. It is available in
250 tourist and transport outlets
across the city.
PASSPORTS Passports are issued
by the relevant embassy who
should also be contacted immedi-
ately in the case of lost or stolen
passports. You are also required to
report the incident to local police
and request a a police report.
PHARMACIES Pharmacies are plen-
tiful in Budapest and the one at
Teréz körút 41 (y 1/311-4439) is
open around the clock and charges
a small fee for an after-hours service.
SAFETY Budapest feels remarkably
safe at night compared to Western
cities of a similar size, although iso-
lated incidents do occur. Be wary of
taxi drivers as even those of rep-
utable firms have been known to rip
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off foreigners. Refuse to take a cab
ride should they neglect to run the
meter. Pickpockets can be a prob-
lem on public transport.
SENIOR TRAVELERS Foreign senior
citizens are entitled to the same free
public transport right as Hungarians.
SMOKING Many Hungarians smoke
and Westerners are often shocked
at how smoky many bars can be.
Restaurants are required to have a
non-smoking area and increasingly
most do.
STAYING HEALTHY Ticks (kullancs)
populate woodland areas in parts of
Hungary, including the Buda Hills to
some extent, and pose a threat in
the form of Tick brain-inflaming
Borne Encephalitis (TBE) and Lyme
Disease. Cover up well in wooded
areas and check for the little blood
suckers later, especially behind your
hair line. They can be twisted out
with tweezers, but go straight to a
doctor if the insect doesn’t come
out in one piece. Mosquitoes can be
a pest in summer but don’t carry
malaria in Hungary. Insect repellent
can deter both.
TAXES VAT (Value Added Tax) is
known as ÁFA in Hungary and is
charged and included on most goods
and services at a rate of 20 per cent.
VAT can be reclaimed at the airport
on the purchase of goods.
TELEPHONES Cards can be bought
at kiosks, while a few can be oper-
ated by coins of Ft 10, Ft 20, Ft 50,
and Ft 100, although sometimes the
coin slots are blocked by fraudsters.
The prefix for Budapest is 1, fol-
lowed by a seven-digit number, but
you drop the prefix when calling
within the city. When calling
Budapest from abroad, it is neces-
sary to dial the country code for
Hungary followed by the prefix and
seven-digit number. When calling a
Hungarian number beyond the capi-
tal, use the 06 prefix.
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167
Fast Facts
Mobile phones have more than
100 per cent penetration among the
population and to dial a mobile you
start with 06, followed by the prefix
of one of the three providers: T-
Mobile (30), Pannon (20), and Voda-
fone (70), which is subsequently
followed by a seven-digit number. To
call a Hungarian mobile from abroad,
you start with the country code fol-
lowed by the mobile provider’s pre-
fix and then the number.
TICKETS Central ticket offices sup-
ply tickets for the full gamut of con-
certs and performances. Jegymester
(Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 31, y 1/302-
4433, www.jegymester.hu), Ticket
Express (Andrássy út 18, y 0630/
303-0999), Ticket Express Jókai utca
(Jókai utca 40, y 1/353-0692), and
Vigadó Ticket Service (Vörösmarty
tér 1, y 1/317-6417).
TIPPING Adding between 10 and
15 per cent to restaurant and bar
bills is the norm (be careful to check
service hasn’t already been added),
but also for trips to hairdressers,
beauticians, etc.
TOILETS Public toilets are not in
great supply but can be found at the
key transport hubs. You have to pay
a small fee to use them, usually
around Ft 100. Dropping into hotels
discretely is often the best option.
TOURIST OFFICES The main tourist
office is at Március 15 tér 7 (y 1/266-
0479) with branches around town,
such as Sütó utca 2 in District V next
to Deák tér metro station and at all
airport terminals.
TOURIST TRAPS Beware of service
already being added to restaurant
bills in some restaurants. If it is you
needn’t tip extra unless you were
especially pleased with the service.
Service charges are often mentioned
on menus in English, but if not look
out for the word kiszolgalás.
Avoid getting into unmarked
taxis as they can really overcharge,
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The Savvy Traveler
and there have even been problems
reported with reputable companies.
Make sure the meter is running
when you start your journey. The
taxi driver will understand the word
meter, if not the Hungarian word is
óra—if you have problem rolling
your Rs simply point.
The US Embassy carries a black list
of rip-off joints to be avoided at all
costs at: http://hungary.usembassy.
gov/tourist_advisory.html.
Budapest: A Brief History
106 Roman Aquincum, now part of
Budapest, becomes the center of
lower Pannonia.
896 Seven Magyar tribes ride in to
capture the Carpathian basin,
including the territory known
today as Hungary.
955 The Magyars are defeated at
Augsburg, marking the end of
their initial expansion into West-
ern Europe.
1000 King István (Stephen) adopts
Christianity leading to the
Pope recognizing Hungary as
a country.
1361 Buda becomes the capital of
Hungary.
1541–1686 Turkish occupation.
1848 Ultimately unsuccessful Revo-
lution against Habsburg rule.
1849 The Chain Bridge becomes the
first permanent bridge between
Buda and Pest.
1967 Reconciliation with Austria
sees period of joint rule.
11:46 PM Page 168
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Budapest is gradually waking up to
the needs of disabled travelers but
has a long way to go before it is on a
par with Western countries. Getting
on and off public transport can be a
challenge, although the 4/6 trams
that operate on the most important
route can be accessed by wheel-
chairs as well as newer buses.
VAT See taxes.
1873 Buda and Pest merge to
become one city.
1920 The post-WW1 Treaty of Tri-
anon sees Hungary lose some
two-thirds of its territory.
1956 Revolution against Soviet-
backed dictatorship sees the
streets of Budapest become a
battlefield with the Soviets
returning to suppress the short
period of freedom.
1970S Free-market reforms see Hun-
gary become the ‘happiest
barracks in the [Warsaw Pact]
camp’.
1989 A velvet revolution ensues
after Hungary plays a major role
in helping East Germans escape
to the West.
2004 Hungary enters the EU on
May 1.
2006 Riots ensue after a speech by
Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsány
at a closed party is leaked, in
which he says his party screwed
up their term of office.
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Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Useful Phrases & Menu Terms
Useful Words & Phrases
ENGLISH HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION
Hello Jó napot! (form.)/ Your-nopot/
Szia! (inf.) See-ya/
Good morning Jó reggelt! Your-reggelt
Good afternoon Jó napot! Your-nopot
Good evening Jó estét! Your-eshtate
How are you? Hogy vagy? Hodge-vodge
Fine, thanks Jól, köszönöm! Jol. cusunum
Thank you Köszönöm! Cusumum
Good-bye Viszontlátásra!(form.)/ Visontlatasra
Szia!(inf.)
Good night Jó éjszakát! Yo ace-okat
Yes Igen Igen
No Nem Nem
Excuse me Elnézést Elnayzayst
Sorry Bocsánat Botch-arnot
Do you speak English? Beszél angolul? Besale ongolule
Can you help me? Tudna segíteni? Tude-na shegyteni
Do you have...? Van...? Von
How much is it? Mennyibe kerül? Men-yeeiber kerule
When? Mikor? Me-kore (me-core)
What? Mi? Me
Give me Kérek Kay-wreck
Where is...? Hol van? Hol-von
the station az állomás oz arllomash
a post office egy posta edge powsta
a bank egy bank edge bonk
a hotel egy szálloda edge sarl-odar
a restaurant egy étterem edge ate-erem
a pharmacy egy gyógyszertár george-sertar
the toilet a WC a vey-say
To the right Jobbra yobb-ro/a
To the left Balra bolra
Straight ahead Egyenesen edge-en-eshen
I don’t understand Nem értem nem airtem
What time is it? Mennyi az idó? Men-yee oz idur
I would like... Szeretnék... Seret-nayke
...to eat enni any—but
emphasize and
pronounce the
double n
...a room for one night egy szobát egy edge sobat edge
éjszakára ace-aka-ro
...a taxi egy taxit edge taxeet
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The Savvy Traveler
ENGLISH HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION
When? Mikor? Me-kore (me-core)
Yesterday Tegnap Teg-nop
Today Ma Mo
Tomorrow Holnap Hol-nop
Breakfast Reggeli Regg-ily
Lunch Ebéd Ebade
Dinner Vacsora Votch-ore-a

Numbers
NUMBER HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION
1 egy edge
2 kettó kett-ure
3 három har-um
4 négy naydge
5 öt urt
6 hat hot
7 hét hate
8 nyolc knee-olce
9 kilenc kee-lenc
10 tíz (dyehth) tease
11 tizenegy tease-en-edge
12 tizenkettó tease-en-kett-ure
13 tizenhárom tease-en-har-um
14 tizennégy tease-en-naydge
15 tizenöt tease-en-urt
16 tizenhat tease-en-hot
17 tizenhét tease-en-hate
18 tizennyolc tease-en-knee-olce
19 tizenkilenc tease-en-kee-lenc
20 húsz huwse
30 harminc har-mince
40 negyven nedge-ven
50 ötven urt-ven
60 hatvan hot-von
70 hetven het-ven
80 nyolcvan knee-olce-von
90 kilencven kee-lenc-ven
100 száz saz
1000 ezer ez-air
2000 kétezer kate-ez-air
3000 háromezer har-um ez-air

Hungarian Menu
Most restauarants now have English-language menus but this list is useful in
the more basic places, and for translating the daily specials list which is
often Hungarian only.
HUNGARIAN ENGLISH
Reggeli Breakfast
Ebéd Lunch
Vacsora Dinner
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Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

HUNGARIAN ENGLISH
Kenyér Bread
Vaj Butter
Méz Honey
Dzsem Jam
Sajt Cheese
Sonka Ham
Kolbász Sausage
Tojás Egg
Só Salt
Bors Peppers
Cukor Sugar
Tej Milk
Olaj Oil
Ecet Vinegar
Víz Water
Ásványíz Mineral water
Bor Wine
Száraz Dry
Édes Sweet
Fehér White
Vörös Red
Sör Beer
Pálinka Fruit brandy
Husok Meats
Bárány Lamb
Csirke Chicken
Kacsa Duck
Liba Goose
Marha Beef
Nyúl Rabbit
Pulyka Turkey
Szarvas Venison
Borjú Veal
Comb Leg
Mell Breast
Máj Liver
Sonka Ham
Hal Fish
Harcsa Catfish
Kagyló Mussles
Lazac Salmon
Pisztráng Trout
Rák Crab, prawn
Ponty Carp
Tonhal Tuna
Burgonya Potatoes
Hasábburgonya French fries
Rízs Rice
Tészta Pasta
Zöldség Vegetables
Gomba Mushroom
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The Savvy Traveler
HUNGARIAN ENGLISH
Karfiol Cauliflower
Kukorica Maize
Lencse Lentils
Sárgarépa Carrot
Spárga Asparagus
Spenót Spinach
Hal Fish
Zöldbab Green beans
Borsó Peas
Saláta Lettuce
Uborka Cucumber
Paradicsom Tomato
Alma Apple
Dinnye Melon
Eper Strawberry
Narancs Orange
Ószibarack Peach
Sárgabarack Apricot
Szilva Plum
Dió Walnut
Gesztenye Chestnut
Málna Raspberry
Gulyásleves Goulash soup
Bableves Bean soup
Halászlé Fish soup
Töltött káposzta Stuffed cabbage
Hortobágyi palacsinta Pancake with minced meat
Somlói galuska Sponge cake with chocolate sauce, nuts, raisins
and cream
Pörkölt Stew
Harcsapaprikás Catfish paprika with dumplings or pasta
Gundel palacsinta Pancake with walnut, chocolate sauce and cream
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173

Toll-free Numbers & Websites

Toll-free Numbers &
Websites
AER LINGUS BRITISH AIRWAYS NORTHWEST AIRLINES
y 800/474-7424 in the U.S y 800/247-9297 in y 800/225-2525
y 01/886-8844 in Ireland the U.S. www.nwa.com
www.aerlingus.com y 0870/850-9-850 in QANTAS
AIR CANADA Britain y 800/227-4500 in
y 888/247-2262 www.british-airways.com the U.S.
www.aircanada.ca CONTINENTAL AIRLINES y 612/131313 in
AIR FRANCE y 800/525-0280 Australia
y 800/237-2747 in www.continental.com www.qantas.com
the U.S. DELTA AIR LINES SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES
y 0820-820-820 in France y 800/221-1212 y 800/221-2350 in
www.airfrance.com www.delta.com the U.S.
AIR NEW ZEALAND EASYJET y 0070/727-727 in
y 800/262-1234 or -2468 No U.S. number Sweden
in the U.S. www.easyjet.com y 70/10-20-00 in Denmark
y 800/663-5494 in IBERIA y 358/(0)20-386-000 in
Canada y 800/772-4642 in Finland
y 0800/737-000 in the U.S. y 815/200-400 in Norway
New Zealand y 902/400-500 in Spain www.scandinavian.net
www.airnewzealand.com www.iberia.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL
ALITALIA ICELANDAIR AIRLINES
y 800/223-5730 in y 800/223-5500 in y 877/359-7947 in
the U.S. the U.S. the U.S.
y 8488-65641 in Italy y 354/50-50-100 in y 0848/85-2000 in
www.alitalia.it Iceland Switzerland
AMERICAN AIRLINES www.icelandair.is www.swiss.com
y 800/433-7300 KLM UNITED AIRLINES
www.aa.com y 800/374-7747 in y 800/241-6522
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES the U.S. www.united.com
y 800/843-0002 in y 020/4-747-747 in the US AIRWAYS
the U.S. Netherlands y 800/428-4322
y 43/(0)5-1789 in Austria www.klm.nl www.usairways.com
www.aua.com LUFTHANSA VIRGIN ATLANTIC
BMI y 800/645-3880 in AIRWAYS
No U.S. number the U.S. y 800/862-8621 in
y 0870/6070-222 in y 49/(0)-180-5-838426 continental U.S.
Britain in Germany y 0870/380-2007 in
www.flybmi.com www.lufthansa.com Britain
www.virgin-atlantic.com
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174
Index
Csontváry Museum, 155 Attila Gere winery, 151

Index
See also Accommoda-
Ernst Museum, 130
Ferenc Liszt Music
Academy, 24
August Cukrászda, 37

Fine Arts Museum, 14,
tions and Restaurant
130
indexes, below. Kieselbach Gallery and
Auction House,
A 71–72
A38 Ship (music venue), 126, Ludwig Museum, 130
133 Mai Manó Gallery, 130
Academy of Sciences, 52 Millenáris, 131
Agricultural Ministry, 41, 51 Mücsarnok, 131
airports, 163 Mumus, 123
Állatkert (zoo), 23, 85 National Gallery, 32–33,
All Saint’s Day, 161 131
American Embassy, 51 Opera House, 8–9
Amphitheater, 47 Pécs Cathedral, 155
amusement park (Vidám- University Church, 53
park), 83, 84 VAM Design Center, 132
Andrássy utca, 14 Virág Judit Mü-terem
animal attractions, 23, 83, 85 Gallery and Auction
antiques, 71–72 House, 72
apartment rentals, 140, 164 Art Nouveau, 22–25
Applied Arts Museum, 130 Állatkert, 85
architecture. See also Art Balás Villa, 23
Nouveau Bedó Ház, 25
Batthyány tér, 59 Budai Vigadó, 59
Chain Bridge, 11, 59 Dob utca School, 24
Corvin tér, 59 Ferenc Liszt Music
Dobó tér, 157 Academy, 24
Fisherman’s Bastion, Four Seasons Gresham
62–63 Palace, 52
Fó tér, 47 Gellért Baths, 25
Great Market Hall, 77 Geological Institute, 23
Great Synagogue, 15, 55 Kazinczy utca Syna-
Hungarian National gogue, 57
Bank, 52 Kölcsey Ferenc Gimnáz-
Keleti Station, 131 ium, 23
Keszthely, 153 Museum of Applied
Matilda towers, 53 Arts, 15
Moszkva tér, 48 National Savings Trea-
Nyugati Station, 131 sury, 24, 52
Opera House, 8–9 Roosevelt tér, 52–53
Parliament, 10–11, 51 Új Szinhaz, 24
Pécs Cathedral, 155 Watertower, 90
Royal Palace, 3, 61 Zala Villa, 23
St. Matthias Church, 62 Zoo, 23
Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó arts and entertainment,
és Uszoda, 27 126–134
Széchenyi tér, 155 arts centers, 131–132
University Church, 53 best bets, 126
Vajdahunyad Castle, cinema, 133
13–14 classical music,
Arena Plaza, 78, 133 132–133
Árpád, 7 dance, 133
Arrow Cross Party, 15, 57 galleries and museums,
art galleries and museums, 130, 131
66, 71–72, 77, 130, 131 live music, 133, 134
Applied Arts Museum, maps, 127–129
130 ATMs, 164
B
B7 (club), 123–124
Bábszi nház (puppet
theater), 39
babysitting, 164
Badacsony, 150
Balás Villa, 23
Balatonfüred, 153
ballet, 133
Bank Center, 52
banking hours, 165
bars, 116–120, 147. See also
summer bars; wine bars
baths, 3, 13, 20, 25–29, 32,
90, 158
Batthyány tér, 59
B&Bs, 165
beach (Siófok), 153
Bécsi kapu tér, 32, 64
Bed Beach (club), 110,
121–122
Bedó Ház, 25
Belgrade Orthodox Church,
147
Belváros, 50–53
Benedictine Abbey, Tihany,
153
Benedictine Monastery of
Pannonhalma, 150
bike rentals, 165
Bio Market, 77
Blaha Lujaz tér, 42
boating, 85
Boatyard Island, 89
books in English, 72
Braille Institute, 23
Budafest Summer Festival,
160
Buda Hills, 86–87
Budai alsó rakpart, 59
Budai Vigadó, 59
Buda Palace. See Royal
Palace
Budapest
favorite moments in,
2–4
history of, 168
off the beaten track, 10
Budapest Autumn Festival,
161
Budapest Card, 165, 166
Budapest Fringe Festival,
160
Budapest International Wine
Festival, 161
Budapest Spring Festival,
160
Buddha Beach, 110, 124
buses, 149, 163
16_697580-bindex.qxp
C D
Caledonian Scottish Pub,
110, 116
Capella (club), 124
carpets, Turkish, 33
car rentals, 162, 163, 165
Cashpoints, 164
Castle District, 3, 4, 11, 32,
60–64
Castle Gardens, 61
castles and palaces
Eger Castle, 157
Festetics Palace, 153
Royal Palace
(Budapest), 61
Royal Palace (Visegrád),
147
Vajdahunyad Castle,
13–14
Cave Church, 20
Cave Hospital and
Bunker, 63
cell phones, 162
cemetery at Korma utca, 57
Centenary Monument, 89
ceramics, 66, 72–73
ChaChaCha Kert (club), 122
Chain Bridge, 11, 59
chair lift, 87
Charles IV, King, 62
child care, 164
children’s activities. See kids,
activities for
Children’s Railway, 39, 48, 87
Christmas, 53, 161
churches. See religious sites
Church of Saint Mary, 155
cinema, 78, 133
Circus, 83
Cirko-geyzir (cinema), 126,
133
Citadel (Citadella), 19, 20
City Park, 82–85
classical music, 132–133
climate, 161–162
Club Inside, 110, 124
clubs, 123–124
coffee houses, 34–37
Cog Wheel Railway, 87
Columbus Jazz Club, 126,
134
Communist Budapest, 39,
42–48, 51–52, 87
Corvin Mozi, 42
Corvin tér, 59
courtyards, 83
CoXx Men’s Club, 110, 124
Csodák Palotája, 39
Csontváry, Tivadar, 131, 155
Csontváry Museum, 155
currency, 166
customs, 165
2/5/09 11:46 PM
dance, 133
Danube bend, 146–147
Danube River, 90
Danubius Health Spa
Resort, 90
day trips and excursions,
146–158
Danube bend, 146–147
Eger, 156–158
Lake Balaton, 152–153
Pécs, 154–155
wine country, 148–151
Déli Station, 163
dentists, 165
design objects, 73
dining. See also Restaurant
Index
best bets, 92
dress code for, 165
Hungarian cuisine,
98–102
Hungarian menu terms,
171–172
international cuisine,
102–108
maps, 93–97
disabilities, travelers with,
168
Disznókó winery, 151
Dobó tér, 157
Dob utca School, 24
Dokk (club), 110, 124
driving, 163, 164
E three days, 16–20
Early Christian Cemetery, 155
Ecseri Piac, 76
Eger, 149, 156–158
Eger Castle, 157
Eger Cathedral, 157–158
Egerszalók Thermal Resort,
158
electricity, 165
embassies, 165
emergency services, 165
English-language books, 72
Erkel Szinház, 132
Ernst Museum, 130
Eródy mansion, 64
Erzsébet Bridge, 53
Erzsébet lookout tower, 87
Esztergom, 147
Etyek, 149–150
Etyeki Kúria, 149–150
event listings, 133, 165
exchange rate, 166
F
fashion, 66, 73–75
Felvonulási tér, 4, 43
Page 175
175
Index
Fény utca piac, 77
Ferenciek tere, 53
Ferenc Liszt Music Academy,
24, 126, 132
Ferenc Puskás stadium, 48
Festetics Palace, 153
festivals, 160–161
Festival Theater, 131
Fészek Club, 110, 124
Fidesz, 15
Filter Klub (music venue),
134
Fine Arts Museum, 14, 126,
130
Fisherman’s Bastion, 61–63
flea markets, 76
Flórián tér, 48
flowers, 77
Fogaskerekü, 87
Földtani Intézet, 23
folk art, 17, 77
Fonó Budai Zeneház (music
venue), 126, 134
food, specialty, 17–18, 36–37,
52, 63, 66, 77, 79, 119
Fó tér, 47
Frankel Leó utca
Synagogue, 57
Franz Joseph I, 18, 61, 133
Freedom Square, 84
Freedom Statue, 19
Fröhlich Cukrászda, 36–37
full-day tours, 6–20
one day, 6–11
two days, 12–15
G
gardens
Castle Gardens, 61
Gellért Baths, 27
Japanese Garden, 90
Lukács Gyógyfürdó, 29
gay and lesbian travelers,
28, 124, 165–166
Gellért Baths, 20, 25, 27
Gellért Hill, 3, 18–20
Geological Institute, 23
Giero (music venue), 134
gifts, 66, 77
Gödör (music venue),
126, 134
go-karting, 84
golf, 89
Gozsdu Udvar, 56, 57
Great Market Hall, 3,
17–18, 77
Great Synagogue, 15,
55–56, 161
Gül Baba tomb, 31
Gyermekvasút, 39, 87
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176
Index
Gypsy music and dance, 134 István, King. See Saint Millennium Under-
Gyurcsány, Ferenc, 51, 87, Stephen I ground, 7–8
168 István Dobó Museum, 157 MOM Park, 78
Museum of Applied
H J Arts, 15, 25
Hajógyári sziget, 89, 161 János-hegy, 87 Musical Fountain, 89, 90
Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Japanese Garden, 90 Musical Well, 90
Sportuszoda, 29, 90 jewelry, 66, 75 National Museum, 33
hats, 66, 73 Jewish Budapest, 4, 14–15, Palatinus Strandfürdó,
Hercules Villa, 47 36–37, 54–57, 79, 161 29, 90
Herend, 72–73 Józsefvárosi Piac, 76 St. Margaret’s
Heroes Square, 7, 14, 42, 43 Abbey, 90
Herzl, Tivadar, 15, 55 Szabadság tér, 51–52
K Széchenyi Fürdó
Hilton Dominican Court, 160 Károly kert, 84
historical sites, 47. See also Baths, 13
Katapult Café & Pub, 118
Communist Budapest; Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó
Kazinczy utca Synagogue, 57
Revolutionary Budapest és Uszoda, 27
Keleti Station, 131, 163
Castle District, 11 Széchenyi tér, 155
Kerepesi Cemetery, 161
Cave Hospital and tour for, 38–39
Keszthely, 153
Bunker, 63 traveling with, 165
kids, activities for
Vienna Gate, 64 Vajdahunyad Castle,
Agricultural Ministry, 51
history of Budapest, 168 13–14, 85
Állatkert, 85
Holocaust Memorial Városligeti Müjégpálya,
Applied Arts Museum,
Center, 57 84–85
130
Honvéd tér, 84 Vidámpark, 83, 84
Arena Plaza, 78
Hósök tere, 7 Vigádo tér, 53
Cave Hospital and
hotels. See Accommoda- Watertower, 90
Bunker, 63
tions Index Westend City Center, 78
Chain Bridge, 11
House of Terror, 46 Kieselbach Gallery and Auc-
Children’s Railway, 39, 48
Hungarian Foundation of tion House, 71–72
Circus, 83
Photography, 130 Kincsem Park, 161
Dobó tér, 157
Hungarian Jewish King Matthia’s Fountain, 61
Eger Castle, 157
Museum, 55 Király Gyógyfürdó, 28, 32
Eger Cathedral,
Hungarian language, Klauzál tér, 57
157–158
169–172 Kogart, 14
Egerszalók Thermal
dining, 170–172 Kölcsey Ferenc
Resort, 158
numbers, 170 Gimnázium, 23
Ferenc Puskás
useful phrases, Kossuth Lajos tér, 41
stadium, 48
169–170 Köztársaság tér, 42
Fisherman’s Bastion,
Hungarian National Bank, 52 Kreinbacher winery, 150
62–63
Hungarian National Folk Fogaskerekü, 87
Ensemble, 59 Gellért Baths, 27 L
Hungarian Philharmonic Gellért Hill, 20 Lake Balaton, 150, 152–153
Orchestra, 132 Geological Institute, 23 last Pasha, memorial of, 32
Hungarian Revolution, Gül Baba tomb, 31 Lechner, Ödön, 15, 23,
19, 41, 168 Gyermekvasút, 87 24, 52
Hungarian Socialist Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Libegó, 87
Party, 15 Sportuszoda, 90 Libyan Embassy, 23
Hungarian State Heroes Square, 7 limos, 166
Television, 52 Idókerék, 85 live music, 133, 134
Imre Nagy Bridge lodging. See also Accommo-
I statue, 41–42, 51 dations Index
ice skating, 84–85 János-hegy, 87 best bets, 136
Idókerék, 85 Japanese Garden, 90 maps, 137–139
IMAX cinema, 78 Klauzál tér, 57 lost property, 166
Imre Nagy Bridge statue, Magdalene Tower, Ludwig Museum, 126, 130,
41–42, 51 63–64 131
Inner City Parish Church, 33 Mammut, 78 Lukács Cukrázda, 14
insurance, 166 Millenáris, 131 Lukács Gyógyfürdó,
internet, 166 28–29, 32
16_697580-bindex.qxp
M Railway Museum, 39
Madách Imre tér arch, 56
Magdalene Tower, 63–64
Mai Manó Gallery, 130
malls, 66, 78
Margaret Island, 3–4, 29,
88–90
markets, 66
Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok,
52
Bio Market, 77
Christmas, 17
Ecseri Piac, 76
Fény utca piac, 77
flea, 66, 76
food, 66, 77
Great Market Hall,
17–18, 77
Józsefvárosi Piac, 76
PESCA, 48, 76
Vörösmarty tér, 53
Matilda towers, 53
Matthias Corvinus, King,
7, 62
Mátyás Templom, 11, 62,
126, 132
Memento Park, 4, 43, 46
Millenáris, 131
Millennium City Center, 131
Millennium Underground,
7–8
Minaret, 157
Minorita Church, 157
mobile phones, 162, 167
Monarchia winery, 149
money, 166
Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kasim,
155
Moszkva tér, 48
Mücsarnok, 131
Mumus, 110, 123
Munkácsy, Mihály, 131
Museum Cukrászda, 119
Museum Kávéház, 4
Museum of Applied Arts,
15, 25
Museum of Ethnography, 51
museums. See also art gal-
leries and museums
Bedó Ház, 25
Geological Institute, 23
House of Terror, 46
Hungarian Jewish
Museum, 55
István Dobó Museum,
157
Museum of Applied
Arts, 15, 25
Museum of Ethnogra-
phy, 51
National Museum, 33
Palace of Wonders, 39
2/5/09 11:46 PM
Serbian Orthodox
Museums, 147
Terror House, 14–15
Zsolnay Museum, 155
music
classical, 132–133
stores, 78
venues, 118, 121–123,
133, 134, 158, 160
Musical Fountain, 89, 90
Musical Well, 90
Music History Institute, 64
Múvész (cinema), 133
Múvész (coffee house), 35
Múvészetek Palotája, 131
Múzeumok Éjszakája, 160
N palaces
Nádor Terem, 132–133
Nagy, Imre, 41–43, 51
National Archives building, 64
National Dance Theater, 133
National Gallery, 32–33, 61,
126, 131
National Museum, 33
National Savings Treasury,
24, 52
neighborhood walks, 50–64
Belváros, 50–53
Castle District, 60–64
Jewish quarter, 54–57
Watertown (Víziváros),
58–59
New Theater, 24
New Year’s Eve, 161
nightlife, 110–124
bars and pubs, 116–120
best bets, 110
clubs, 123–124
gay clubs, 124
maps, 111–115
summer bars and ven-
ues, 121–123
wine bars, 120–121
Night of the Museums, 160
Nyugati Station, 131, 163
O religious objects, 79
Óbuda, 47
Óbudai Társakör, 133
Old Buda, 47
Old Man’s Music Pub, 118
open spaces
Blaha Lujaz tér, 42
Heroes Square, 7
Honvéd tér, 84
Japanese Garden, 90
Károly kert, 84
Margaret Island, 89
Memento Park, 46
Page 177
177
Index
Palace of Wonders, 39
Szabadság tér, 84
Opera House, 4, 8–9, 126,
133
Orbán, Victor, 15
Örökmozgó (cinema), 133,
160
Ostrom utca, 31, 32
outdoor activities, 82–90
Buda Hills, 86–87
City Park, 82–85
Margaret Island, 88–90
outdoor safety, 167
P
Palace of Arts, 131
Palace of Wonders, 39
palaces. See castles and
Palatinus Strandfürdó, 29, 90
Palau de la Musica, 24
Pálinka (liqueur), 80
Pannonhalma, 150
Papp Lásló Budapest Sport
Arena, 133–134
Párizsi udvar, 53
Parliament, 3, 10–11, 41, 51
Pártos, Gyula, 15
passes, 166
passports, 166
Pauer, Gyula, 57
Pécs, 154–155
Pécs Cathedral, 155
perfume, 78–79
PESCA, 48, 76, 134
pharmacies, 166
Piaf (club), 110, 124
playgrounds, 84, 123, 131
Pók, Tamás, 80
Post Office building, 48
public transportation,
163–164
pubs, 116–120
Puppet Theater, 39
R
Radio Building, 42
Railway Museum, 39
religious sites
Belgrade Orthodox
Church, 147
Benedictine Abbey,
Tihany, 153
Benedictine Monastery
of Pannonhalma, 150
Cave Church, 20
Church of Saint Mary,
155
Eger Cathedral,
157–158
16_697580-bindex.qxp 2/5/09
178
Index
religious sites (cont.)
Frankel Leó út Syna-
gogue, 57
Great Synagogue,
15, 55–56
Gül Baba tomb, 31
Inner City Parish
Church, 33
Kazinczy utca Syna-
gogue, 57
Magdalene Tower,
63–64
Pécs Cathedral, 155
Rumbach utca Syna-
gogue, 56
St. Anne’s Church, 59
St. Margaret’s
Abbey, 90
St. Matthias Church, 62
St. Stephen’s Basilica
(Szent István Basil-
ica), 9, 52
University Church, 53
Retro Beach, 110, 124
Revolutionary Budapest,
40–43, 51
Rippl-Róna, József, 131
Roman ruins, 47, 48
Roosevelt tér, 52–53
Rose Hill, 31
Royal Palace (Budapest),
3, 4, 11, 61, 161
Royal Palace (Visegrád), 147
Rózsadomb, 31
Rudas Gyógyfürdó és
Uszoda, 4, 27–28, 32
Rumbach utca Synagogue, 56
Ruszwurm Cukrászda, 37, 63
S Statue Park, 4, 46
safety, 166–167, 167
St. Anne’s Church, 59
St. Margaret’s Abbey, 90
St. Matthias Church, 11, 62,
126, 132
St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent
István Basilica), 9, 52, 160
St. Stephen’s Day, 161
Saint Stephen I (Szent
István), 7, 10, 62, 168
Schulek, Frigyes, 62, 63, 87
secondhand stores, 75, 76
senior travelers, 167
Serbian Embassy, 42–43
Serbian Orthodox Museums,
147
shoes, 66, 76
“Shoes on the Danube Prom-
enade” memorial, 57
shopping, 66–80
antiques, 71–72
art, 71–72, 77
11:46 PM Page 178
best bets, 66 Széchenyi tér, 155
ceramics, 72–73 Szekszárd, 150
fashion, 73–75 Szentendre, 147
folk art, 77 Szent Gellért, 19, 20
food, 77, 79 Szent István. See Saint
Great Market Hall, Stephen I
17–18 Szent István Basilica. See
jewelry, 75 St. Stephen’s Basilica
maps, 67–70 Szent István tér, 52
perfumes, 78–79 Szent Jobb Chapel, 9
on Váci utca, 17 Szépmüvészeti Múzeum, 14
wine and spirits, 80 Szeremley, 150
Siege Street, 31, 32 Sziget Festival, 4, 89, 161
Sighi@oara’s clocktower, Sziget Klub, 89, 123
13–14
Siófok, 153 T
skiing, 87 Táncsis Mihály utca, 64
smoking, 167 taxes, 167
Socialism, 43 taxis, 164, 167–168
Socialist Party head- telephones, 167, 173
quarters, 42 tennis, 89
Somló, 150 Terror House, 14–15
Soviet War Memorial, tickets, 167
47, 51, 84 ticks, 167
spas, 141–142, 144. See also Tihany, 153
baths Time Wheel, 85
special events, 160–161 tipping, 167
special interest tours, 22–48 Tirol strudels, 37
Art Nouveau, 22–25 Titanic Film Festival, 160
baths, 26–29 toilets, 167
coffee houses, 34–37 Tokaj, 150
Communist Budapest, Toldi (cinema), 160
44–48 Tóth Árpád sétány, 64
for kids, 38–39 tourist offices, 160, 167
revolutionary Budapest, tourist traps, 167–168
40–43 tours, guided, 90, 166
Turkish traces, 30–33 toys, 80
spirits, 66, 80 Trafó Bár Tangó (music
sports, 48, 87, 89 venue), 134
Trafó House of Contempo-
Stephen I, King. See Saint rary Arts, 126, 131
Stephen I trains, 163
Suleiman the Magnificent, 31 Children’s Railway,
summer bars, 4, 121–123 39, 48
Summer on the Chain Fogaskerekü, 87
Bridge, 161 Gyermekvasút, 87
swimming, 153 Railway Museum, 39
Eger’s Thermal Baths, trams, 59
158 transportation, public,
Gellért Baths, 20 163–164
Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Treaty of Trianon, 168
Sportuszoda, 29, 90 Turkish baths, 32
Lukács Gyógyfürdó, 28 Turkish traces, 30–33
Palatinus Strand-
fürdó, 29
in Siófok, 153
U
Új Szinhaz, 24
Szabadság Bridge, 18
UNESCO sites, 150, 155
Szabadság tér, 51–52
Unicum (liqueur), 80
Széchenyi Fürdó Baths, 3, 13
University Church, 53
Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó és
Uránia (cinema), 133, 160
Uszoda, 27
16_697580-bindex.qxp 2/5/09 11:46 PM Page 179

179

Index
V Zsolnay Museum, 155 Astoria, 36
Váci utca, 17 Zsolnay tiles, 15, 24, 57, 64, Bagolyvár, 98
Vajdahunyad Castle, 155 Balletcipó, 92, 103
13–14, 85 Baraka, 92, 103, 140
VAM Design Center, 132 Accommodations Bar Ladino, 116
Városligeti Müjégpálya, Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok, 52
Index Biarritz, 98
84–85 Andrássy Hotel MaMaison,
Vasúttörténeti Park, 39 Bock Bistro, 98
136, 140
Vidámpark (amusement Borbiróság, 98
Art’otel, 140
park), 83, 84 Buena Vista, 116
Atrium Fashion Hotel, 140
Vienna Gate, 32, 64 Café Alibi, 36
Beatrix Panzió, 140
views Café Bouchon, 98
Best Western Hotel Art, 140
Angelica, 37 Café Csiga, 116
Boscolo New York Palace,
Balás Villa, 23 Café Farger, 51
136, 140–141
in Castle District, 64 Café Gerbaud, 17, 35
Carlton Budapest, 141
Chain Bridge, 11, 59 Café Gusto, 103
Citadella Hotel, 136, 141
Children’s Railway, 39 Café Kör, 92, 99
City Panzió Ring, 141
Corvin Kávézö, 59 Callas, 9
Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel,
Dobó tér, 157 Cari Mama Pizzeria, 57
136, 141
in Esztergom, 147 Carne di Hall, 103
Danubius Grand Hotel
Ferenciek tere, 53 Castro Bisztró, 116–117
Margitsziget, 141
Fisherman’s Bastion, 63 Centrál Kávéház, 35–36
Danubius Health Spa Resort
Fogaskerekü, 87 Chez Daniel, 103
Helia, 136, 141
János-hegy, 87 Corvin Kávézö, 59
Danubius Health Spa Resort
Libegó, 87 Csalagány 26, 92, 99
Margitsziget, 136,
Madách Imre tér, 56 Cyrano, 103–104
141–142
from Margaret Island, Deep Water, 35
Danubius Hotel Astoria,
3–4 Déryné, 117
136, 142
Minaret, 157 Dunapark, 37
Danubius Hotel Gellért,
Royal Palace, 61 Fausto’s Étterem, 92, 104
136, 142
St. Stephen’s Basilica, 9 Fausto’s Osteria, 104
Easy Hotel, 142
TV Tower, 155 Fészek, 92, 99
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham
Vigádo tér, 53 Firkász, 99
Palace Budapest, 136,
Villány, 151 Fuji, 92, 104
142–143
Virág Judit Mü-terem Gallery Fülemüle, 92, 99
Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe, 143
and Auction House, 72 Gerlóczy Kávéház, 36, 100,
Hotel Astra, 143
Visegrád, 147 143
Hotel Panda, 143
Víziváros, 58–59 Goa, 104
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus,
Vörösmarty (cinema), 160 Govinda Vegetáriánus
143
Vörösmarty tér, 53 Étterem, 104
Lánchid 19, 136, 143
Gresham Kávéház, 25, 92,
Le Méridien Budapest, 143
W 104
Marriott, 136, 144
walking around, 164 Gül Baba Szeráj, 33
Medosz, 136, 144
in Castle District, 64 Gundel, 100
NH Hotel, 144
Danube River, 90 Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen, 100
Ramada Plaza, 136, 144
Szentendre, 147 Három Testvér, 31
Sofitel Budapest Maria
waterpark, 158 Haxen Király, 100
Dorottya, 136, 144
Watertower, 90 Holdudvar, 123
Uhu Villa, 136, 144
Watertown, 58–59 Iguana Bar & Grill, 105
Zara Boutique Hotel,
weather, 161–162 Il Terzo Cerchio, 92, 104–105
136, 144
websites, useful, 162, 173 Indigo, 92, 105
wine, 66, 80 Jardin de Paris, 105
Restaurant Index Jelen (bar), 118
wine bars, 120–121 Albárdos, 98
wine country, 148–151 Kacsa Vendégló, 100
Angelica, 37, 59 Kádár Étkezde, 57, 92,
Wunderlich winery, 151 Arany Kaviár, 102 100–101
Arcade Bistro, 98 Kafana Grill Restaurant,
Z Arigato, 102–103 92, 105
Zala Villa, 23 Arriba Taqueria, 92, 103 Károlyi Étterem-Kávéház,
Zoo, 23, 85 Artesano Spanyol Étterem és 101
Zsolnay (store), 73 Tapas Bár, 103 Két Szerecsen Kávéház, 105
16_697580-bindex.qxp 2/5/09 11:46 PM Page 180

180
Index
Kisbuda Gyöngye, 101 Momotaro Ramen, 92, 106 Pick Márkaáruház, 79
Kiskakukk, 101 Mosselen, 106 Pozsonyi Kisvendégló,
Kispipa, 101 Museum Cukrászda, 119 92, 102
Klassz, 92, 101 Múvész, 35 Remíz, 107
Kóleves, 101–102 Nagyi Palacsintázója, 59 Ristorante Krizia, 107
Lanzhou, 42 New York Kávéház, 35, 141 Ruszwurm Cukrászda, 37, 63
Le Bourbon, 143 Nusantara, 106 Segal, 107
Lou-Lou, 105 Oceán Bar & Grill, 106 Sirály, 120
Lukács Cukrászda, 14 Okay Italia, 106 Spoon, 92, 107–108
M!, 105–106 Okuyama no Sushi, 92, 106 Taj Mahal, 92, 108
Maligán Borétterem, 102 Pampas Argentine Steak Three Brothers, 31
Marxism, 47 House, 106 Tom George Restaurant &
Matteo, 92, 102 Paris-Budapest Café, Café, 108
Menza, 92, 102 106–107 Trattoria Toscana, 92, 108
Millennium da Pippo, 106 Pata Negra, 107 TV Tower, 155
Miró Café, 61 Peppers! Mediterranean Vadrózsa, 92, 102
Mirror Café & Restaurant, 36 Grill, 107 Városligeti Sörsátor, 85
16_697580-bindex.qxp 2/5/09 11:46 PM Page 181

181

Photo Credits
Photo Credits
Front Matter Credits: i: © Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi/PCL; © Glenys Hart/Fotolibra; © Shutterstock.

All images: © Bianca Otero with the following exceptions:

© Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest: p 143 top.

© Uhu Villa: p 144.

Courtesy of Alamy: p 49 (© Kevin Foy).

Courtesy of The Four Seasons Hotel, Gresham Palace Budapest: p 142 bottom.

Courtesy of Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe: p 142 top.

Courtesy of Lánchid 19 Design Hotel: p 143 bottom.

Courtesy of PCL: p 11 bottom (© Adrian Pope); p 18 both, p 160 (© Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi);
p 155 (© Stephen L Saks).

Source: © Budapest Gyogyfürdói ZRT: p 3, p 13 bottom, p 27, p 28 bottom.

Many thanks to the hotels and venues featured that kindly provided the photographer with
images.
16_697580-bindex.qxp 2/5/09 11:46 PM Page 182

182
Notes
Notes
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