Al
THE ATTRACTIONS OF THE CAPITAL
The two Song
pial, Kaifeng and Hangchow, were not merely administrative
centers; they were also flourishing commercial ties. Both were located at centers
of communication—Kaifeng at the juncture ofthe Yellow River and the Bian
Canal, Hangzhou midway between the Yaige’ and the seacoast, atthe other end
(of the canal. In these two cites, with their concentration of people and wealth, a
distinctly urban style of life evolved. Numerous amenities, including a great oa.
riety in food, entertainment, and luzury goods, were available fo city resident
The division of labor reached a very high levl, eth mary workers engaged i
igh
ecilied enterpris
Below isa description ofthe city of Hangzhou written in 1235. At that time
the city encompassed seven to eight square miles.
MARKETS
During the morning hours, merkets extend from
Teanguiliy Gate of the palace all the way ro the
north and south sides of the New Boulevard, Here
wwe find pearl, jade, talismans, exotic plants and
fruits, seasonal catches from these, wild game-—
al the rarities of che world seem to be gathered
here. The food and commodity markers at the
Heavenly-View Gate, River Market Place, Cen
tral Square, Ba Creek, che end of Superior Lane,
Tent Place, and Universal Peace Bridge ace all
crowded and ful of taf
Inche evening, withthe exception of the square
in front of che palace, che markets are as busy as
during the day. The most attractive one is at Cen
trol Square, where all sors of exquisite afacts,
les and activites (Irs impovsbl for me to give
Temple and the Noble Ladies’ Quareers were lo
‘ated at Central Square, opposite the preset in
penal dye and bleach works. Once, after
performing the state sacrifice, Emperor Xinovong
fr. 1162-1189] stopped to see the lantern ds
plays. We save the rows of imperial attendants in
front ofthe curtain ofthe emperor's carriage, and
the piles of cath thae they spent to buy food. They
also gave our cash and gits liberally ro che on-
Tookets, some of whom were fortunate enough ¢o
sgetreal gold or silver pieces
‘Whenever there isan imperial procession or &
iious parade, the carcages form spectacular,
1g wall the tip of one touching that of another
‘On thelocin front ofthe wall ofthe city build
ing, there are always various toting troupes pee
forming, and this usually attracts a large crowd
‘The same kind of activity i seen in almost any
vacant lor, including tase at che meat marker of
the Great Common, the herb marker at Charcoal
Bridge the book marke arthe Orange Grove, the
vegetable market on the eas side of the city, and
the rice marker on the north sige. There are many
moe interesting markets, such as che candy
‘erat the Five Buildings, bot Leannor name them
all
I
(COMMERCIAL ESTABLISMENTS
Various busineses are designated by the word
“company,” which ia taxation category imposed
by the government and is used forall businesses
dealing in commodities, regardless oftheir size.
Even physicians and fortunetllers are included,
(Other teades sometimes also borrow the word
company’ for thet own use, such as liquor com
pany_and food company. Some businesses are
Called “gatherings” such as a flower gathering
fruit gathering, drid-fish gathering... Artisans
sometimes call their businesses “workshops,
such az comb workshop, belt workshop, gol:
‘and-silver plating workshop. There are some usi-
nesscs that use unusual names for example, shops
Gealing in the “seven treasures” (gold, silver,
pearl amber, et.) may cal ehemselves curio com:
The Atatonf the Capital 179
panies, whereas a bathhouse may be designated &
fragrancwater company.
In general, che capital atracts the greatest v2
rieey of goods and has the best eaftsmen, For in-
stance, the lower company at Superior Lane docs
4 truly excellent job of lower arrangement, and
its caps hairpins, and collars are unsurpassed in
craftsmanship. Some of che most famous special:
ties ofthe capita ae che sweet-bean soup atthe
Miscellaneous Marke, te pickled dates ofthe Ge
family, the thick soup of the Guang family at Sv
perior Lan, the fruit at che Great Commons mar
ketplace, the cooked meats in front of Eternal
Mercy Temple, Sister Song's fis broth at Penny
Pond Gare, the juicy lings at Flowing Gold Gate,
the “lamb rice” of the Zhi family at Cenceal
Square, the boots of the Peng family, the fine
clothing of the Xuan family st Southern Com:
‘mons, the sticky rice pastey ofthe Zhang family,
the flutes made by Gu the Fourth, and the Qiu
familys Tatar whistles ac the Great Commons
WINE SHOPS
Among the variovs kinds of wine shops che ta
and-fod shops sell not only wine, but also var
‘ou foods o go with it. However, to get seasonal
delicacies noe avaiable in chese shops, one should
0 10 the inns, for they also have a menu from
Which one can eke selections. The pastry-anc:
‘wine shops sell pastries with duckling and goose
Flings, various Exings of pig tripe intestines and
blood, fish fst and spawns but they are eather ex
pensive. The mansion-stle inns are either deco
aed in the same way as officals’ mansions or are
scully remodeled from such mansions. The
{garden-style inns are often located inthe suburbs,
though some are also situeted in town. Theie dec
‘oration is usually sn imitation of a stadio-garden
combination. Among other kinds of wine shops
fate the straight ones thac do na sll food. There
fre also che small retail wine shops which sell
house wine as well as wine from other sores. In
stead ofthe comimon emblem—a painted branch-
ing ewig used by all other winchouses they have1801 The Song and Yoon Dynatic
Santo fs td cna avsngs To godin
ing in suc a plc i called “hing he cup
Ineanng that person drinks only one cup #8
therfore othe mon espenableplace anda un
(or polite company
‘Te "usuriane nae have posites siding
indhem, andthe wine chambers ar equipped with
beds. At the gate of sch a inn, on cop ofthe red
gardenia ane, there i amay a cover made of
Bamboo leaves Rain or shin this cover aivaye
present serving as adem Inher nthe
Einhonly keep the pss company Ifa gust has
Other ithe, he has co go tothe gis pace
“The emblems of wine shops area branching
sig painted red crimson coring with faces oF
red'and gold tones, ands gardenia lancer. Tes
id that this convention stared with he vst of
Emperor Guo (ofthe Five Dynasties} 0 the Pat
Jou winehouse in Bing
“The wine chambers af wsualy mame. I the
building has several store, they ay be din
sited bythe term "mountain *Thus here may
inountain et. These "mouneine” are Bure
heights indiesting the capacity for wine. Fr his
reason, when You goto ane shop, can rom
fing spt you only intend co over a ew
rinks and vo stay fora shor time. you donot
onder roo many drinks, you can sit downs a
‘hearen designated a bles facing te door end
the seer"
Aer you ae sated he waiter wl bring you
a fewsampledclcais He wil hen ask you what
ou would keto have and inva quantiy. Ont
nerds wl he ring you your onde. Teepe
‘who ae unfamiliar with this custom often star
Caring these samples aod tnake themes he
laughingstock of the day
The expenses incurred on visiting an inn can
vary widely. Ifyou order food, but no drinks, is
called “having the lowly soup-and-staf” and is
quic inexpensive. f your order of wine and food
{alls within the range of 100-5000 cash, it icalled
a small order. However, if you ask for female
company, then itis most likely tha the gel wil
‘order the most expensive delicacies. You are well
advised ro appear shrewd and experienced, so as
‘not to be robbed. One tric, for instance, in or.
dering wines isto give a lange order, of say, ton
bottles, but open them one by one In theend, you
will probably have used only five or six botles of
the best. You can then return the rest.
[RESTAURANTS
Most restaurants here are operated by people
from the old capita, like the lamb sice shops
‘which also serve wine. There isan art to ordering
clishes: if you wish to fill yourself quickly, then
you should first order the heavy items (such as
beam soup ib-and-rce, sticky-rice ete} and then
the light ones (Such as fied gizzards, tripe, and
kidneys); if you prefer to enjoy the good taste of
the foods before you fill yourself, chen order the
light dishes fist and the heavy ones ast.
The so-called southern seve is @ misnomer.
“These restaurants were orginally established in
the old capital to serve southerners who were not
used eo the nosthern diet. Now thar they ae inthe
South, the term southern style Becomes mislead-
Jing. At any sate, noodles and seafood are the spe-