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MY ACCOUNT
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This training plan is a 3-day-per-week plan that features two 4-week blocks of training. For sake of simplicity, we will call phase 1 the Strength
phase and phase 2 the Power phase, although both phases feature a mixture of both. This plan differs from previous versions in both the
volume of training and in the tools we use. There is a greater emphasis on skill development on slightly-below-limit problems here, and a big
emphasis on dynamic effort strength.

The aim of this plan is to improve overall bouldering performance. Just like the other cycled programs, his can then be translated to route
climbing by adding a conditioning phase after completion of this program. If you simply want to be stronger for bouldering, you can do this
plan for 8 weeks, followed by a 2-4 week bouldering performance phase where you’d simply try to send hard problems and let training simmer
for a little while.

Weekly Time Commitment: 

Strength Phase: 3 training days, one low volume, one medium volume, and one high volume. This translates to around 45, 90, and 120
minutes.
Power Phase:  2 training days, 75-115 minutes per session, plus 1-2 boulder performance days.

Each of the 4 weeks follows a similar total time and session format. The progress comes by pursuing more volume of hard boulders and
higher speeds in the weight room. 

Strength Phase
The strength phase features 3 days of training. Each session features some general strength work and then some targeted finger strength
work. Ideally, you would do 4 weeks of 3 days per week. However, if you miss a day or two, simply extend the cycle a bit, until you can complete
all 12 sessions. The weekly cycle features a medium, then high volume, then low volume day. This is a critical distinction for most of us, as we
tend to fall to medium-intensity and medium volume sessions every training day for weeks on end. If you can harness the discipline to “wave”
the volumes, you will see results beyond anything you’ve experienced before.

If you elect to boulder on the weekends (though I recommend keeping it to a minimum this 4-weeks), the medium day on Monday won’t crush
you. Likewise, the easy Friday session will keep you fresh for Saturday.

Resistance Training: Perform the first three exercises as a circuit for the prescribed sets and reps, followed by the following three exercises for
the same sets and reps. Rest as needed between exercises. The goal is to move the same weight faster as the phase progresses, not just get
tired. Think of being as explosive as possible with each rep, even if it doesn’t seem like you’re actually faster. If you do see slowing speed in
pull-ups or with a barbell, the loads are too heavy and should be pulled back.

Monday Wednesday Friday

Pull-Up (https://youtu.be/ZZgo9HiMqfc) 3 sets of 3 reps 5 sets of 3 reps 2 sets of 3 reps

Lever (https://youtu.be/cx4GLRW2EEQ) 3 sets of 3 reps 5 sets of 3 reps 2 sets of 3 reps

3 sets of 3 reps 5 sets of 3 reps 2 sets of 10 reps per side (@

Rack Step-Up (https://youtu.be/w3AGrfw-WyA)
per side  per side bodyweight only)

3 sets of 3 reps 5 sets of 3 reps

1-Arm Overhead Press (https://youtu.be/9zn4BBrFrIo) 2 sets of 3 reps per side
per side per side

Ab Wheel Roll-Out (https://youtu.be/s9KRdWIsyCg) (slow

3 sets of 10 reps 5 sets of 10 reps 1 set of 10 reps
pace on this one)
 Kettlebell Swing (https://youtu.be/HIxoZwFWqjU) 3 sets of 15 reps 5 sets of 15 reps 1 set of 15 reps

Hangboard:

Monday Wednesday Friday

2 rounds of: 3 rounds of:  1 round of: 

4 Finger, Large Edge (https://youtu.be/gY6AwopLSJc) 6 x 7:3 6 x 7:13 4 x 10:10

3 Finger Pocket (1st 3 fingers (https://youtu.be/6vKECvjlf_M) 6 x 7:3 6 x 7:13 4 x 10:10

Pinch** (https://youtu.be/uAqjRGz2qTc) 6 x 7:3 6 x 7:13 4 x 10:10

4 Finger, Small Edge (https://youtu.be/gkNKSjSYw_w) 6 x 7:3 6 x 7:13 4 x 10:10

*rest 2 minutes between exercises and 4 minutes between rounds

** Pinch can be done single arm with a block or 2-handed.

Bouldering: 

Yes, you can boulder. No, you shouldn’t be trying to send your hardest-ever. Bouldering should be skill-focused this month and ideally would
see you focused on anti-style problems and cleaning up movement errors rather than chasing grades. Work in the “hard” bouldering zone,
between your flash grade and limit grades. Climb for no more than 45-60 minutes after warm-up. 

Power Phase
The second 4 weeks will find you focusing more on explosive movements (that can’t be done slowly), doing more bouldering, and only logging
2 days per week training with 1-2 performance bouldering days. 

Instead of cycling between medium, hard, and easy days, we’ll be ejecting the easy day altogether and replacing it with a Friday recovery day.
You can stick to the Monday-Wednesday schedule, or might be happier switching to a Tuesday-Thursday, with a bouldering day on the
weekend. I caution you against thinking you can do more - of course you can...we all can. Performance, though, is what we are training for, not
tiredness. If you start to lose “snap” or feel fatigued coming into a session, REST. Power is the goal.

Resistance Training: Perform the first three exercises as a circuit for the prescribed sets and reps, followed by the following three exercises for
the same sets and reps. Rest as needed between exercises.

Tuesday Thursday Saturday

Trap Bar Deadlift (https://youtu.be/62yrfl2sh88) 3 sets of 3 5 sets of 3 -

Box Jump (https://youtu.be/OJ526FxlA6I) 3 sets of 6 5 sets of 6 -

Frog Stretch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLfrrZGLJ8Y) 3 sets of 60-90 seconds 5 sets of 60-90 seconds -

Inverted Row (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI) 3 sets of 8 5 sets of 8 -

Ball Slam (https://youtu.be/7n580XgsJLs) 3 sets of 8 5 sets of 8 -

Superband Latissimus Traction (https://youtu.be/oeqYdflSWyc) 3 sets of 60-90 seconds 5 sets of 60-90 seconds -

Campus Board:

Tuesday Thursday Saturday

 2 rounds of: 3 rounds of: 

Ladders - Large Rungs (https://youtu.be/3k5KG03NU_A) 5 hits per hand 5 hits per hand -

Foot-On Doubles (https://youtu.be/pJ6HhH8oZwI) 3 3 -

Bouldering: 

Tuesday Thursday Saturday

Limit-Level Boulder Attempts (https://youtu.be/sMbs1NurW64) - - 45-60 minutes

Hard Bouldering ( Onsight level to OS +2)  (https://youtu.be/R_kfVnL7NhI) 30 minutes 45 minutes -

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