*# DIRECTIONS * = Fon usee THE ~ WHITE SEV«NG MACHINE - ' a eS ke __ —— ITS ATTSEHMENTS. MANUFACTUFED BY THE WHITE SEWING MACHINE Go. Cleveland, \, U.S. nSS Ga set FG CaTO THE JOBBER AND EXPORT TRADE For large job! or for the export trade, where orders are for one iyadred or more 1m. ines at a time, we ship securely and compactly boxed, so that in transportation charges a large saving is obtained Tn this manner of shipping, us before stated, ad the work is carefully in- spected ; the heads ot the machines Lave each been tested in sewing, and are boxed by themselves, whilst ie stands are taken apart and shipped in as small and cor-puct shape as possible. Consequently, for the information of this claus. of trade, we submit and call attention to our first illustration—Tre Sranp—and explanation as how to set it up properly. In the first place, remove the nuts 68-68 and cones 69-69 from the treadle rod 72 and slide the treadle 71 on the rod with a cone on each side of the treadle. The stud and cones upon which the balance wheel revolves are’ firmly secured to the right hand leg. Remove the end cone by loosen- ing the small set screw and unscrew the outside cone. Place the balance wheel in position as shown in illustration, page 2 , then replace the ond cone and turn if up until the balance wheel revolves easily and steadily. ‘Tighten the set screw to keep it in place, (be careful not to get too tight or too loose); next attach pitman No. @5 to balance-wheel, then the dress-guard to right hand leg No. 64. Having thus put together thes@ disconnected parts, it is an easy matter for a beginner to determine their relative positions by reference to the cut. 60 represents the brace. The left hand and the right hand legs are connected to the brace by screws as shown in cut. 55 represents a wooden pin in table for machme to rest on when turned back for oiling ; this pin is taken out of the table and packed with the stand when it is shipped in boxes. To have the machine run extraordinary light the greatest care must be exercised in setting up \« stund work. “EH must be true and in line. i Sie Be sure that you have the wood work placed upon th that the helt does not rub against if, and als> eo that it dose wet nee against the balance-wheel of the machine. Tf the stand resis upon the floor in an uneven manner, and the floor is level, it is evident that the stand is not properly set up ; in which case loosen the screws and nuts and place the stand ‘in its proper position, and gradually tighten its connections. Place the Rubber Head Tacks in inarked places in the front the table before you connect the machine ea by its ica ie To prevent noise, no part of the machine should touch the wood work, but the machine head should rest entirely upon the Rubber Hoad Tacks and Hinge Rubbers, 3INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE WHITE SEWING MACHINE THE BEST IN THE WORLD, MANUFACTURED BY THE WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, CLEVELAND, O., U. S. A. oe At a very large expense, we hive had the White Sewing Machine explicitly illustrated, and within-the following pages we submit these illustrations with such explanations as will enable anyone, with ht'e or no experience, to readily understand, and satisfactorily work vhe machine, Al we ash is that you will carefully read and follow these directions, and you can confidently rest assured that you will sind yourself the possessor of the best Sewing Lachine in the World. Before the machine leaves our factory, it has undergone a minute inspection, and every~mectisnical defect corrected; it has eon thoroughly tested as to its perfect ‘sewing qualities, and found satis- factory in every respect. It is » matter of fact, that any and all machinery will become worn sooner or later by constant use, and while the wear in the “ Wurre” will be imperceptible for many years, we have so constructed our machine, that any ‘“‘lost motion” can be taken up in a few moments, and the parts kept in their proper position for an indefinite length of time. Operators are cautioned not to attempt to adjust the machine, unless its sewing qualities are impaired, and not then unless they are penfzctly Samiliar with its principles and mechanism. Any unskilled person attempting to adjust or repair any machine will often do greater injury than years of ordinary wear could produce. ApeTHE TREADLE MOVEMENT. ‘WE CLAIM AN IMPORTANT IMPROVEMENT IN TREADLES, BY ALLOWING ‘ROOMY ” SPACE FOR THE FEET 80 THAT THE OPERATOR IS NOT “CRAMPED Up” BY THE USE OF BOTH FEET. Physicians will acknowledge the advan- tages of this improvement, and tell you that nearly all the diseases con- tracted by seamstresses and working girls in the use of the sewing machine arises from the cramped position in which they have been compelled heretofore to sit and place their feet upon so little space, and from the fact that the majority of sewing machines run too heavy. ‘These Objections are Removed in the White Sewing Machine, ‘The treadle movement should be thoroughly learned, so that the ‘operator can readily revolve the balance wheel by means of the treadle with either foot. Remove tho belt from the balance wheel and place your feet on the treadle directly over the treadle rod, then take hold of the balance wheel and turn it toward you, allowing the feet to move freely with the motion thus commenced, and continue this motion by an alternate pressure of the heel and toe until a regular and easy motion is obtained. Do not attempt to learn anything else until you are proficient im the use of the treadle, so that you mp start it and stop it without ever turning it in the wrong direction. TO OPERATE THE MACHINE, 1 Having become perfectly familiar with the treadle movement, now replace the belt and connect the fly wheel of the machine with the _ balance wheel of the stand; raise the presser foot with the lever, re- move the slide over the shuttle and take out the shuttle: then start the fiy wheel of the machine towards you and continue the motion-thtus im parted, with the feet, as per instructions given above. After becoming expertly proficient-in this motion and without the shuttle in or the machine threaded, place a piece of cloth between the feed and the presser foot ; let the presser foot down upon it and operate the machine in this way until you are accustomed to guiding the material in whatever direction you might desire. Norz.—Do not run the machine with the presser foot down on the: feed and no cloth between the two. Do not pull the-cloth to or from you in such a manner as to bend the needle. : Do not undertake to do practical sewing, but practice upon strips of cloth until you can produce a regular motion of the machine and guide the work as you wish. aeTOS Bie HE NEED tes Raise the needle barto its highest point; loosen the thumb screw and press it to the left to permit the shank of the nzedle to pass up between the clamp and needle bar as far as it will go—flat side to the right—the needle being flattened on one side so it will set itself perfectly, then fasten securely by tightening thumb-screw. The needle, when descending, should pass central in the needle hole from front to rear, but a little nearer to the right than to the left + of the hole, as it prevents the needle from glancing into the race and being caught by the shuttle; if properly set, the point of the shuttle should enter the largest part of the loop formed with the thread, NEEDLES AND THREAD TO BE USED. ‘The most important consideration is to buy and use perfect needles —not bent, nor blunt points. Wx PARTICULARLY REQUEST OUR DEALERS AND THEIR CUSTOMERS TO BUY THEIR NEEDLES AND OIL FROM Us. The size of the needle should conform to the size of the thread,, and both be suitable to the material sewed. Use as fine a needle as will permit the thread to pass freely through the eye. A No. 1 needle may be used for all kinds of ordinary family sew- ing, where thread from numbers 50 to 80 is used; there is seldom a necessity of using a coarser cottux than No. 80, because every stitch made hy a sewing machine is just double as strong as one made by hand. In general sewing use the same size of thread above and below. ‘The following index will show the size of needle, thread and silk to be used. Corton. Twist. NEEDLE, 150 to 300 000 00 90 to 150 00 i 70 to 90 “0 0 50 to 70 A&B 1 30 to 50 Cc 2 20 to 30 D 38 Sto 20 E&F For Leather, use a twist pointed needle. Starring strromes AND PREAING THREAD is an unheard comp ain’ when the genuine ‘‘Wurre” needle is used. Tha market is full of needles of an inferior quality—made to sell cheap—and as an inducement for every owner of a Warrn to use it satifactorily, (which can only be dono by the use of a good needle) we will mail one dozen needles, wwith postage prepaid, on receipt of 40 cents.4 eh TRANSPARENT VIEW OF MACHINE HEAD. Do not use these numbers to-ordér extra parts’ from. See pages 12 andér3 for order list.ap ee es TO FILL THE BOBBIN WITH THREAD. You have the great advantage of our Automatic Bobbin Winder a feature that no other machine possesses. Figure 28 represents the Automatic Bobbin Winder, which is fastened firmly to the arm of the machine. Place the spool of thread on spool standard No. 1 and fasten the end of the thread between the end of the bobbin and the bobbin winder shaft, and put the other end of the bobbin in the bobbin winder; then turn the bobbin winder, adjusting screw until the bobbin winder pulley (rubber) shall come against the fly-wheel. Wind the thread a few turns around the bobbin; then pass the thread up and over the small pulley on the curved shaft at top of winder ; then down and through the slot at the bottom of bobbin winder frame; steady the thread with the hand, and the bobbin will wind itself automatically as smooth as a spool of silk. Should the thread change direction at any time when filling the bobbin, pay no attention to it, except to see that the curved shaft is tree from dirt or thickened oil, and in the next layer it will regulate itself all right. THREAD. Do not use poor thread. You must not expect to make a nice, smooth stitch with cheap, uneven thread. Clark's or Willimantic six cord spool cotton is the best, azd we will fill all orders for it promptly, by mail or express, on receipt of price, viz: 60 cents per dozen spoois, KEEP THE MACHINE WELL OILED. If the machine is dirty or gwinmed up with poor oil, clean it off by the use of spirits of turpentine or kerosene, then wipe dry and apply fine sperm oil in the places indicated by the word od in the illustration on page 2 Keep the inside working parts thoroughly oiled. In addition to the oil holes, the upper part of the machine should be carefully oiled on the feedle-bar and slot in face on side from you; also the bearings of the bobbin: winder should be kept constantly oiled. To oil the under si ip the belt off the balance-wheel and turn the machine back on its hinges, and oil all the places indicated by the numbers 19, 20, 22, 44, on page 7. =s Use only the best quality of sperm oil, and whenever you oil the machine, work it a little to disturb the oil, and then, after standing a few moments, take a soft cloth and clean the superfluous oil from the japanned parts of the machine, also from the needle bar. The shuttle race is provided with a cup filled with waste. Keep this waste slightly moistened with oil. which will keep the shuttle and its race lubricated all that is necessary. THE IRON STAND. Oil should be distributed frequently upon the treadle-rod cones at 69 and upon the balance-wheel cones on ends of stud No. 63; and upon the pitman connections at 62 and 66. (See page 2).TO THREAD THE MACHINE. Place the spool of thread on the spool standard No. 2, pass the thread under the pin and back of check spring washer No. 8, thence twice around the tension No. 9 to\ithe right; thence up and through slot in end of take-up No. 6, thence through slot in chd of needle bar to the eye of the needle from left to right, drawing two or three inches of thread through. = 3 PIE TENSION. The tension on the upper thread is controlled by the tension 9, shown on face of machine; by turning it to the right tightens the tension on upper thread, by turning it to the left loosens it. If a tight tension is desired both upper and under threads must neces- sarily be tight. If the upper thread isiight and the drawn to the top thus, If the lower thread is too tight, it will be drawn straight on the bottom of the goods In sewing all cotton and fine linen goods, avoid a tight tension as much as possible to prevent fullness after having been washed. When you desire the goods to look alike on both sides and be, elastic, balance the tension; thus, See that pieces of thread or dirt do not get into the groove in tension wheel causing thread to slip in groove. The tension wheel should turn when in use. lower thread loose, the upper thtead Wit~-be——~Take the shuttle in the Teft han drop the bobbin into the shuttle and holding the same in position shown in illustration, take end of thread in the right hand; pass thread through slot and under front side of shuttle spring to po- sition No. 2. Then draw thread down and over shuttle spring, thence back under shuttle spring, and, holding thread taut by pressure of left fore-finger upon end of bobbin, tighten thread by ‘drawing straight toward heel of shuttle until the thread passes under lip in shuttle eS to the position as shown at figure 3\ ‘The shuttle is then ready for use. \ TO REMOVE -THE SHUTTLE. & n.the front shuttle-slide to take ie shuttle from the machine. Do not undertake mE (qetext shuttle slide partly pulled out. TO CHANGE THE LENGTH OF STITCH. No. 12, page 7, represents the Stirc Recutator, which will be appreciated at sight, as the most\gimple and complete device of the kind ever placed upon a sewing machine. The ae is located at the right end of machine in front of arm, The round dial to turn the machine back for is marked wit scsle running from to 9, fepresenting the limits of the stitch; No. o ‘being’ thie Shortést and No. g the longest. To regulate the length of stitch, place your finger on the rough surface of the regulator and move it to the No. a-sired, from you to lengthen and towards you to shorten the stitch. By this mean%sthe same dength of SH®# can always be duplicated, thus obviating the necessity of experimental trials, as is the cas? with other machines. The length of stitch should be governed by the size of the thread ; the coarser the thread the longer the stitch. THE VIBRATOR. No. 27, page 9, represents the Vibrator thumb-screw, which regulates the Vibrator in face plate. To put Vibrator in gear loosen thumbscrew and drop it to its lowest point and tighten screw again. If full vibration of pressure is desired, let the point of needle down o2goods and put “vibrator in gear,”” as above directed. If only a partial vibration of presser is desired, let point of needle go down ¢hrough goods and put ‘ vibrator in gear,” as above directed. =oTO COMMENCE WORK. In threading the needle and shuttle respectively, you should leave an end of thread about two inches in length to each. Hold the end of the upper thread loosely in the left hand, and with the right hand gent y revolve the fly-wheel until the needle passes to its lowest point and returns, when if it is set properly, a loop will be formed through which the shuttle will pass, and, as the needle ascends, it will draw up the lower or shuttle thread. Now see that the shuttle slides are both closed over the shuttle, and the machine is ready for practical operation. TO REMOVE THE WORK. Stop the machine with the needle at its highest point; raise the presser-foot. With the right hand take hold of the tension releaser back of tension nut and pull towards you, which slackens the upper thread; then take hold of your work with your left hand and pull it directly from you, keeping the top thread in the slot of the presser-foot, which will prevent bending the needle. Cut the threads close to the cloth, which will leave the ends projecting from needle and shuttle pre- paratory to commencing work again. EXPLANATION OF DIFFICULTIES. THAT SOMETIMES OCGUR WITH BEGINNERS. Af the upper thread breaks, it may be caused by the needle not being properly set, or the machine ‘not threaded correctly, or the upper tension too tight, or the thread uneven and the needle too small for it, or the needle eye too sharp, or the presser-foot attached to the machine so that the needle rubs it in passing. Uf the under thread breaks, it may be caused by the shuttle being improperly threaded, or too much tension upon it, or by the bobbin being wound too full so that the thread slips over the ends of the bobbin in the shuttle, or by the thread being caught in the shuttle slides. If the needle breaks, it is more than likely your own fault, caused by pulling the goods to or from you in such a manner that the needle strikes the throat-plate and is bound to break. The needle may;how- éver, break in trying to sew extraordinary heavy seams when the pressure on the presser-foot is not Heavy enough. To create more pressure upon the goods turn the presser-bar nut on top of presser-bar to the right ; to decrease the pressure turn it to the left. If the machine skips stitches, the needle is either bent or not in right position. Uf the stitches are not even, it may be caused by the presser-foot not resting evenly upon the fabric sewed, or by the feed not being high enough, or by the stitch being too short, or by pulling the cloth, or by using too fine a needle with too coarse or uneven thread. NOTICE, The leather band should always be tight enough not to slip. If it slips, or does not force the needle through thick goods, cut off a very short piece and readjust the ends. The belt should not be so tight as to prevent an easy motion of the machine. ST x210 ant 12 213 214 25 216 27 2s 219 21 22 23 224 235 BSE 8 ‘Take-up serew for needle bar bushing. Serew to adjust npper and lower end Plate set screw to 228. Serew to fasten heart cam to needle bar and to fasten 301 to arm. Serew to fasten stitch indicator washer and to fasten tension check spring and to fasten 340 Presser foot, hemmer and bralder sereW..ssmn Serew to fasten gib on inside of face. Serew to fasten food spring to bed and feed hook to feed bar and feed bracket to bed and shuttle eaerler to lever and leather tofeed bar ‘Take-up screw on bearing to feed arbor and to lower end and middle bearing of eccentric ‘connection and to fasten 294 in elbow lever and to take up bearing on lower end of pitman... i ‘Take-up screw for upper end of 202 Serew to fasten centre to elbow lever and to fasten stud in treadle and to fasten eone on treadle rod, and to fasten 230 in treadle Dalanee wheel... Serew to festen face plate to arm. Serew to fasten arm to bed plate, and to fasten ress guard and brace to leg of table Serew to fasten socket in arm.. Spool standard.. Set serew to shuttle lever cone and to 268 Serew to needle plate and to fasten feed to feed Dar. Serew to fasten clutch to upper arbor and to fasten ball in upper end of pitman.. Lateh in 2i7 Spring in 217. Pin in 217. Serew to fasten 217 to treadle balance wheel, ‘Treadle rod nut.. Stand castor. Pin in 223, Serew to fasten swing drawer to table... ‘Screw to fasten hinge to table. Balanco wheel stud, with back ¢O00..c.r Front cone for 227. Ball in treadte balance wheel. Socket for 22 ‘Stud in treadlo. ‘Treadle Cone. Quilter... Serew to fasten quilter. Cluteh spring... Cluteh late... Clute Iateh serew. Presser foot. Hemmer and feller. Braider .. Heart cata Heart rolle Heart roller stud. Gauge i; Gauge sore. nc Bing Screw to fasien hiage to bed. Hinge rubber, Elbow lever. Centre for 249. ‘Washer on ball of 349 Socket for 250... Crank on rear end of feed arbor. 022 | ag 03 02 Upper arbor FG regular i Stitch Jadientor Screw ta fasten 361 t0 50, Waster to go on 259 before 381. Suteh indicator washer. rescer bar Preaser sprit Dresser serew.. Presser ber guide. Presver bar ifter Vibrator thumb serew. Vibrator lever Needle verew Shuttle ue lever Shuttle tever cove, Screw im end of 23 ‘akerup sezew for shale Kecentrie serew.. Take-up stud ‘Take-up spring fh Washer o0 298. Wise fo aati pg. Feed. Feed bar Feed hook! Feed spring. Feel bracket eed par tet Feed te block, Ecubher heased tack ‘Tension stud Large cloth washer ‘Teusion wheel. E Suna cloth wastied Steel tension washer. ‘Tension release Tension coll spring. ‘Tenson nat. nek spring Check spring wa Shilo pl Bowe Bobbin’ winder rubber Robbin winder main eeitre Kobbin winder spring centre Bobbin winder pulley Babbin wi Bobbin winder spring. Bobbin winder pu pin. Bobbin winder Fads ba Tadlus bar roller Keautius bar aerew ring on S24 Head's got Screw to adjust bobbin winder to wie On GSR OSTHSHGEFEGRNERESERSLELRA SATS ERAS TCERERSSEARRBRUSEAEE Kear shuttle slide Needle plate, 33) Front shuttle slide. ‘Thread nunber plata.” : 3i1 Washer for all places ot mentioned... SESHEGS RG LISLLEEES SEE OEE EES Special Notice —Always order parts by these Numbers, and send Gash with orders for parts, aes d { 4Hig. 25, DIRECTIONS FOR USINA THE ATTACHMENTS. HEMMING. Raise the needle to its highest point, remove the presser foot and in its place attach the horaner. Insert the edge of the cloth, folded up, into the mouth vf the hemmer as represented at 2 in fig. 15, then with <8 pin_or thread in the fold draw the edge of the cloth far enough through the hemmer so that the needle will ener the cloth at its extreme edge then proceed to sew, keeping the tenet as it feeds through. FELLING. ‘The hemmer is also the feller. Sew together two pieces of cloth “with the under edge projecting between } and } inch beyond the upper edge ; then trim the edges if necessary and open the work flat, wrong side up, and fold down the wider edge, toward the left, over the narrow edge, and then pass the folded edge into the feller the same as ordinary bemming. Hig. 15 represents an operator in the act of completing a fell. —u—HEMMING AND SEWING |. ~LACE-ONE OPERATION. Our hemmer and feller wis! Dyaccompanies each machine, is now made with a slot—6. (See Figs, 4 and 15). Tn this slot place the edge of the lace and sew it on at “same time as in ordinary hemming. HEMMING, SEWING ON LACE ' 4D INSERTING BIAS TRIMMING AT HEAD OF THE HE! LL IN ONE OPERATION. Cnt a narrow piece of bias trimming out of colored goods (see 4 ta Fig. 14). Puss the bias trimmin ymto the tube near thers the first hemmer; then place the edge gf ;he Ince m slot GS cuitter auide 1 to be hemmed into ths nvuth of the? ad eepadt and then proced to sew, keeping the « By’ Keoping the guide in a line through, and at the same time holdin It will require a little patience and ex made in squares or sections and proficient in this work, but as 1t mies or diamonds the seams should ming, and has come 9 into general machines. WIDE HEM: Any width hem can be made with the fabrics hy simply folding the goods the de passing the edge through as in narrow herSSSETESw RT BRAUNNG. Bemove the presser foot anci attiyzh the braider to the presser bar. The Visrator must be adjusteai (sce page 10), at such a height that every downward movement of the neville will cause the braider foot to raise just enough to allow the qoodsts) pass freely under it. ee TE torn to be braided snoulgefirst be stamped or drawn on writ- ie proweed tom A get the braid into the braider, rel end of the brirdtkvough the slot on ‘The hemmer is also the feller, throng the hole 2 in tie front of the with the under edge projecting betd back of the needle; then place the edge ; then trim the edges if necesel proceed to sew, guiding the cloth side up, and fold down the wider eae braid with the left hand to keep it edge, and then pass the folded edg ~~ : Sa wrator @ novice can do better braiding, Hig. 15 represents an oper). pig. cisn ewpert oan do on any other, ed to the cloth. ¢ mente. CT tee’ Fig. 3. QUILTING. : The uur ts furnished with each machine without extra charge. Pass the quilter through hole 2 in presser bar, adjust the quilter guide to the right of the needle according to the desired space between seams, and high enough to allow the goods to pass freely under if, and then fasten the quilter securely by screw 3. : In start to quilt use the onter edge of the cloth for the first guide, or else crease the cloth on the right and let the quilter guide 1 follow the crease ; quilt the remainder by keeping the guide in a line and over the seam last stitched. Norice.—Large quilts should be made in squares or sections and then sewed together. In quilting squares or diamonds the seams should bbe on an equal bias. aeES a pa: = i EDGE BRAIDING. A special attachment of our own make and patent: adapted only for the “White.” RETAIL PRICE, $1.00. To adjust the braider for the size braid to be used, loosen the screw holding the adjustable piece C, pass the braid through the-hole A, then drop piece C and fasten with the screw, so that the braid will pass through freely. This can be done best before attaching to the presser bar. Now remove the presser foot and attach the braider to the presser bar. The Visxator must be adjusted (see page 10), at such a height that every downward movement of the needle will cause the braider foot to raise just enough to allow the goods to pass freely under it. To put the braid into the braider, first raise the foot, then pass the end of braid through the hole A on the braider and draw it under the foot and back of the needle; then place the stamped pattern under the braider and proceed to sew, guiding the cloth with the right hand and holding the braid with the left to keep it from twisting. Should the braid lay flat, loosen the screw that holds the braider on the presser bar, and move the braider a little to the left, the sewing will then come nearer the edge of braid, and bring it up edge wise on the pattern. By the assistance of the vibrator a novice can do better braiding, and more of it, on the White, than an expert can do on auy other machine without suck an attachment. 1WELT-CORDING, Remove the regular presser foot that accompanies each machine and attach the plated presser foot that accompanies the set of “ White” attachments ; fasten the ATTACHMENT HOLDER 4 to the face plate by the gange-screw and then place the welt corder 3 in the holder by sliding it behind and securing it firmly with screw 2; then take ordinary dress cord and pass the end of it through the hole S in coRDER caRRmeR and back through the folder ; then cut a narrow piece of bias trimming, as represented by 7, and pass it into the folder so as to surround and cover the corder ; then take the two pieces of cloth between which the welt cord is to be stitched, as shown in cut by 6 and 8, allowing the piece 6 to pass under the attachment and to be next to the feed of the machine, whilst the piece 8 must pass over the welt corder and he neat to and under the presser foot; lower the presser foot and then proceed to sew, guiding the edges of 6 and 8 pieces together snd the result will be as shown at 9. By using the pieces 6, 7, and § out of different colors, it makes a very handsome piece of trimming. igFig. &. TUGCKING, Attach the tucker to the machine by means of the gauge screw. Set the guide 2 (sce fig. 8) as fur from the needle as yau want the tucie tm width, and then fasten the tucker firmly to the machine by turning ange screw to the right; then loosen little screw or nut 1 (see fig. 8) and move the creaser 6 exactly tarice as far from the needle to the left as the guide 2 is to the right ; then fasten little screw 1. This adjustment will make tucks wédhout any space between them. ff space between tucks is desired, move ‘the creaser 6 as much forther from the needle to the left as the space desired. Connect the tucker-arm or wire 3 to the needle by hook 4. To Commence Tucktna:—Fold the cloth for the first tuck and place it under the creaser bar and presser foot with the folded edge agaist the guide 2, lower the presser foot and sew as usual, keeping the edge of the goods close against the guide 9. ‘The creaser 6 marks the cloth as it passes over the creasing blade , after the first tuck is completed, fold the cloth by the mark made by the ereaser and place again as before. Continue this operation until the garment has the required number of tucks. ‘THE ABOVE DIRECTIONS HAVE REFERENCE TO THE JOHNSON ‘Tucker, ‘WHICH, HOWEVER, ARE SUBSTANTIALLY THE SAME FOR THE ** Goopricu.” - 2 —Fig. 1 RUFFLING OR GATHERING. The Jounson Rurrier is an extra attachment. Rerar Price $2. RUFFLING. Remove the presser foot and attach the rufiler in its place with screw 2, first connecting lever arm gem the needle screw 3. Adjust so that the needle will pass down through needle hole in its centre, Fig. 20 represents common or plain ruffling ; 8 isa strip of material (cotton or muslin most generally used) which is placed under /eeder 7 and far enough back under the presser foot so the feed of the machine will eatch the goods; nowlower the foot and proceed to operate the machine as in ordinary sewing. ‘To make the ruffle ov gather fuller, move lever 6 to the right. To make ruffle or gather not Frll, move lever 6 to the tft. RUFFLING BETWEEN TWO BANDS. Insert the edge of the piece to be gathered or ruffled under and next to feeder 7+ place one band mezt fo and ever the feed of the machine, or, in other words, under the piece toe gathered; then place the edge of the other band over and above feeder 7. Let down the foot and sew as usual, being careful to hold the bands straight and smooth, with the rule in their proper position. RUFFLING AND SEWING ON. Place the piece £0 de gathered or ruffled under the feeder 7, and the piece or garment to which the gather or ruffle isto be stitched must be placed next fo the feed of the machine, or under the piece to be gathered, Then sew as in plain ruffling, holding the lower piece slightly, so ## will not be puckered. RUFFLING IN SCALLOPS. Attach the ruffler the same as for gathering, as before explained. Push ratchet lever 610 the right make avery full gather. Have stitch a litle shorter than ordinary, Use Lonsdale cambric if the trimming is being made for white garments that are tobe washed. Itcan be made of other materials and in colors, and in this manner, either straight or scalloped, forms a beautiful trimming for children’s dresses, ladies’ underwear, &c., &c, ‘Cut the Lonsdale eambric or othet material in strips about am incit wide, and across the goods; fold the strip in the center and press the folded edge down smooth, Pass the folded material, with folded edge to the left, under the feed 7, and proceed to sew, While sewing, move the gonds to the right and left alternately, ‘enough to make the scallops as deep as desired. The scallops can be made uniform in Zengtk by counting the ‘same number of stitches between each alternate moyement to the right and left. ‘This pleated trimming can he made either straight or in scallops and sewed on to the goods or garments desired to be trimmed in one operation, by placing the goods the same as in gathering and sewing on. 31inorder. Noe “Ratchet le Separator screw ie i iH hi iH Li! i i 1 rt ever dd good work whe weit Te'fastens the dee’ shable se ny Peet tor isin position over over the ‘anger of Tn) any kind of Never attach the Rufller to the machine until the slide the feed, or the other teparator is attached ase tig a good plan wo place a taed oF feed before‘you aetach the vier, other: ‘ojuring the points of the crimper. roa ‘he points of the erimper are kept very sharp, Gee lly in rufllinrg calico. " Micah ods to be ruffled increased pressure om resser-bar is necessary, tura the presser-bar sere all the iown, “Oilthe rufiier where you see any bearings, that is, at || This is the proper placs || the moving points 1as_ commonly been | ston ti ble. he teeth, fine points o ‘To place a rule on a garment: remove the slide separator and attach the other separator to the left of the needle by serew §. ¢ for this separator, and not to the right a3 done. By its being'to th left your ruffle | atthe right under the arm of the machine and the garment to the mall rafling, ‘except putting a ruffle on at some distance from the edic,) uge the slide separator. It is most convenient hasall the guides fr use ia al sorts of rutting ‘On ll soe goon any degree of fulness can be had by a very short movement Sfthe entipes and then make loag or shore sdkches foe desea of ness. ‘You must not rum the cloth entirely out of the rufler, and zu the crimp teeth onto the steel separator, fe will destroy the ‘which you must preserve In order todo good Wilds tbat debate Brawied wih a piping eee Tier eens area eee eres ee cele se eee second wa ec aay $5, pangs, Toe Rare ests ate ill an NG (| Boe os yulnhatcany frac ofthe operator. The ope separ tor, To ploce piping oF folded edge tand, draw the slide Separator’ back band are plac the rufile Inte convenience, and when piping and the separator back to place again id-proceed to sev, Don’t forget to remove the separator from the rufller, and use only the slide separator, for all work except as above stated, You. | cam place the work easier. Do not make one move ofthe crimper | on thes cei separator unless there is cloth or a card between them. More ruffiers ave destroyed by this carelessnees than by all other wsescombined. TT you expect to do good work, keep your Ins toils were Ox of order. fall -vifles andl down for scant ruffles, PayeeBINDING SCALLOPS. ‘This BrxpeR is an extra attachment, an:t belongs to our new set, called the “ White sttachments, which consists of a Welt-Corder, Binder, Dress-Trimmer, and @ Fold Maker. Reram Price or Ser, $1.00. BINDING, Attach the irregular-sided presser foot to the machine, Fasten the attachment holder 6 to the face plate with gauge screw and then place the binder 2 in the holder by sliding it behind the clamp 1,and securing it firmly with screw 3; then pass the binding material into the mouth of the binder with the edges of the binding under the lips, and carry the binding far enough back so the needle will catch it; then place the gar- ment or goods to be bound, in the binder, between the binding material ; then let down the presser foot and proceed to sew, holding the goods as in fig, 2 close up to the needle and binder. BINDING SCALLOPS. In binding scallops, after binding around the curve ot che scallop, stop the machine with the needle in the goods and then 101d the elbow or the angle of the following scallop so as to form as nearly as possible a straight linc, and then continue the binding, being particular to hold the goods being bound a little firmer than the binding, which will prevent its being drawn. LBFOLD MAKING, Attach the fold maker 4 behind clamp 3 with screw 2. Cuts piece of bias trimming about three-fourths of an inch in width and. pase it into the mouth of the folder go the needle will catch it then place the dress or garment to be trimmed under the folder and presser foot, and then proceed to sew. The folder can be moved to the right or left so that the stitch will appear in the center of the fold, or upon either side of the center, or edge, as may be desired. With this attachment the Freon fold can easily be made. The Fouv-Maxer is an extra attichment and belongs to the “White” set of attachments, which consists of a Binder, Fold-Maker, Dress Trommer, and Welt Corder. Reram. Price o: Sz, $).00. eeFig. 3. This Dress Trimmer is an extra attechinent, and belongs tu our new set, called, the “White”? attachments, which consist of a Welt-Cordcr, Binder, Dress-Titmmer end 6 Fold-Maker. Rerau, Price or Ser $1.00. DRESS TRIMMING. © Fasten the dress trimmer into the holder in the same manner as the binder. For bias binding or dress trimming, goods of any descrip- tion can be used. Cut the binding about three-quarters of an inch in width. To make a “‘showy” trimming, use two pieces of different colors, as represented by 8 and 9 in fig. 8. Pass those bias strips through the folders 5 and 7; then place the goods or garment to be trimmed under the dress trimmer and next to the feed of the machine, and proceed to sew. ‘With this attachment, a single fold can be attached as trimming to one piece of goods ; or a single fold can be inserted between two pieces of goods ; or two folds of different colors, can be inserted between two pieces of goods of different colors, all in one operation, as represented in fig. 8. —%3— EE ee- HEM STITCHER. A special attachment of our own make and patent ; adapted onty for the “White!” Rerau Price, $1.00. First remove the presser foot of the machine ana place the hem stitcher on presser bar same as presser foot, so needle will enter hole in center of lower bar of attachment. Use strips of linen, lawn or muslin lengthwise of the goods, of about 1} inches in width, creased in center, for guide in stitching. Place one piece of cloth between the feed and lower bar of attachment, the other over the lower bar and beneath the foot of attachment ; the ordinary tension is used for a medium space in the hem stitch ; to increase the space, loosen tension ; to diminish space, tighten tension. To make two or more rows, add.the same size strip to feed and the lower one half of the hemstitching already made, and continue n same manner if more rows are desired. —26—COAT BINDING. This Brxper és an extra attach- ment. Rurart Price, 50 cents. . Remove the presser foot and attach > the binder in its piace Insert the bind- > ing as shown in cut fig. 5, so that the stitching will show on the extreme right edge; then place the edge of the coat \ or vest to be sound under the binder j_\ \ and even with the binding and proceed MPR MEMEIGS 45 sow. Nearly all tailors bind fine clothing by hand ; thatis they seam down one edge and fold the binding over the edge, and then blind stitch it, Wirnt THIS ATTACHMENT THE BINDING CAN BE SEWED ON ANY DISTANCE FROM THE EDGE OF THE GARMENT WITHOUT BASTING. Iv WILL MORE THAN PAY FOR ITSELF IN BINDING ONE COAT BY THR ‘TIME SAVED. TO BIND A GARMENT WITHOUT SHOWING STITCHES. Attach face plate binder (see ent page 28) high enough to let the goods pass under freely. Insert the binding as usual, and then place the garment newt to the feed of the machine with the edge re- quired to be bound to the left; proceed to sew, and then fold back the edge, which will cover tho stitches TO PUT ON DRESS-BRAID AND SEW ON FACING WITHOUT : SHOWING STITCHES, {nsert the braid in binder the same as for ordinary binding ; then place the edge of the skirt neat to the, feed of the machine, with the edge to be bound to the g/t; then pass the edge of the facing into the binder 8o that it will be stitched over tho skirt, being careful to keep the facing én the binder, and the garment or skirt far enough under the binder to make a good strong seam ; then fold back the facing and binding as in sewing by hand. A GARMENT MAY BE BOUND AND LACE SEWED ON Aq ONE OPERATION. Place the edge of the lace in the binder with the garment; after binding as in ordinary work, turn or fold the binding bick and edge. stitch the same so as to leave lace on the edge. This is a very nice way of putting on narrow bias pieces without basting either edge. —27— aDirections for Using the White Embroiderer, First remove the presser-foot of the machine and put the Embroiderer in its place. Adjust the Embroiderer so that the needle will not touch the looper when the machine is in motion. . Place the wire thread guide, No. 2, on presser-screw, as shown in cut. Put the tension device, (which is partly shown on lower end of spool No. 1,) inside the Embroidery spool and put it on the back spool standard. ‘The thread for the machine needle should be put on the middle standard and the ma- chine threaded up in the usual way. The Embroiderer thread is first put through thread guide No. 2, then down back of the arm, then through hole No. 3 and 4 from front to back, then through hole No. 5 from the back side. To thread the looper turn the machine slowly until the needle is part way down and until the looper turns about half way over, then thread through small hole No. 6, from right to left, and hole No. 7 from left to right. The tension of Embroidery thread is regulated by pressing the spool No. x up or down on the tension device, and but very little is ever needed. ‘The Embroiderer should not be allowed to get dry or it will catch and not work ; care should be taken in oiling, however, not to use too much. —28—TO ADJUST AND THREAD THE ARRASENE EMBROIDERY ATTACHMENT. First remove the presser foot from machine, raise presser bar and place the attachment as high on the bar as it will go. Have the attach- mont set so the needle will pass direcily in center oi opening of foot of attachment. Thread the embroiderer eyelet with any kind of embroidery ma- terial, passing the material threaded back and under the foot of the attachment so as to allow the stitch of the machine to fasten the material. The vibrator should be used for the convenience of the operster when using the attachment.The above illustrations are of special attachments for the Warr Sewine ‘Muon as follows RETAIL PRICES. ‘ A—Etching plate. . $ .60 1 B—Etching foot... 40 1—Roller presser for leather worl 2.00 2—Special manufacturing foot. 60 3—Special foot for gioctwork 50 4—Special foot for glove work. 50 INSTRUCTIONS, ‘The Biching plate A, is used by removing the front slide of the machine and placing it in its place which, you will observe will cover the feed, which is essential | in Btching, so that operators may move the work in any direction. Etching foot B is used also In doing this kind of work, and should take the place of the regular presser foot. After you have placed the Etching toot and plate in correct positions, the ~ material apon which the Etehing is to be done should be placed in an Embroidery hoop firmly—pattern should be clearly stamped, then proceed to sew, following pattern closely In form and color, Eteing is the straplest of all fancy Sewing Machine work, but taste, practice and patiern are needed. Keep your work firmly in the Embroidery hoop, work carefuily, keeping a uniform stitch, which is regula- ted eolely by the movement of the hands. +