SUR——————
Europe's latter-day gladiators congregated in Portugal this sun
huff and pulf their way chrough Euro 2004, the 12th quadrennial
European soccer championships. Sporting spectacles have become the
‘modern equivalent of Roman circuses in popular imagination, but
beyond the dramas on the pitch, perhaps the most remarkable
achievement ofthis footballing fee décé, was that ic was staged in,
Portugal, one of the continent's more impoverished countries. Asa
major sporting event (in soccer terms, second only to the World Cup).
Euro 2004 presented considerable logistical and financial challenges,
‘exacerbated by increased fears of terrorism, Nonetheless, from Braga
in the noreh to Faro in che southern tip of the Algarve, eight cites,
played host to the international soccer circus and its stellar performers,
In preparation forthe championships, the Portuguese authorities
embarked on an ambitious programme of stadium building and
infrastructure improvements. Seven new stadiums were constructed
and three others renovated ata cost of around 550 million euros
(G370 million). quarter of this came from the state, withthe balance
raised by local municipalities and che clubs themselves, who will profic
in the long term from new grounds and improved facilities. Though
there was some inevitable scepticism about the benefits of spending
SPORTS SPECTACLE
Carved into a mountainsi
le, Braga’s
new stadium is a radical reinvention of
the sports amphitheatre.
FOOTBALL STADIUM,
BRAGA, PORTUGAL
ARCHITEC
EDUARDO SOUTO DE MOURA
such vast sums in this way, the official rationale is that the tournament
will have the effect of boosting tourism, already one of Portugal's most
lucrative industries, and that better transport links and new hotels will
help to sustain its long-term growth,
Sporting fiestas are now rezarded as 2 powerful impetus for urban
and economic development, but their legacies ean be mixed. The most
successful example in recene times was the Barcelona Olympics of 1992
(AR August 1992), which kick-starteda selsmic city-wide regeneration
that stil continues today: but the 2002 World Cup in japan and South
Korea (AR October 200!) produced a surfeit of expensive stadiums,
some of which are now hardly used, as neither country hasa strong
footballing culture. In Portugal, which does, ambitions are more
realistic, with all 10 tournament stadiums being tenanted by existing
clubs, the majority of which are in the country’s Premier League.
‘The new stadiums (all by Portuguese architects) are a mixed bag,
with le variation on the generic stadium type of object building in
the landscape that has persisted since Roman times as che
conventional model forthe gladiatorial/sports amphitheatre, Th
stunning exception isthe new Braga stadium, where Eduardo Souto de
Moura radically re-envisages the amphitheatrical form asa tent duginca a mountainside, in which the man-made artifact simultaneously
becomes part of and emerges from the natural landscape.
In another departure from the familar stadium form, Souto de
Moura dispenses with seating behind the goals, craditionally the haunts
ofthe more riotous, dle-haré supporters attracted by tribal
camaraderie and cheaper seat prices. In Latin countr
‘often the setting of elaborately staged expressions of club devotion,
but the views are generally the worst in the ground. Eliminating the
‘unvass perhaps an over-optimistic speculation on the social decline
of tribalism, but Souto de Moura regards it as simple expedient chat
reflects both football's evolving culeure and the increasingly exacting,
demands ofthe paying public. His elegantly economical solution of wo
long grandstands, each seating 15,000 spectators in two overlapping
tiers, is intended to provide optimum viewing conditions. Football
‘today is entertainment, ust ike cinema, theatre and television, he
szserts, ‘Today, no one would be willing to watch a piece by Peter
Handke from behind che goal with continuous zoom shets.”
Since the ewelfth century, the historic, northern city of Brags has
been Portugal's eccleslastic eapital and the seat ofthe country's
renbishops. Religion and its various festivals still playa strong part in
civic life ~on 2 wooded slope to the east ofthe city is the famous
bracoque Escadaria of Bom Jesus, a monumental, processional staircase
winding up to pilgrimage church chat attracts large festive erowds
‘throughout the year. On hillside to the north, Souto de Moura's
stadium dominates the surrounding landscape with an equally baroque
theatricality, forming a new object of secular veneration,
However, che stadium is more than just anew home for the local
football veam, itis also the focus of a new urban park planned around
the slopes of Monte Castro and along the course of the river Cavado.
Here the northern edge of the ety peters out into bucolic countryside,
‘andthe municipality has big plans to develop a park for sports and
recreation, A swimming pool and sports hall are in the pipeline, as are
‘extensive new landscaping and infrastructure, Souto de Moura's shrine
to soccer is just the firs sep.
the curvas are
FOOTBALL STADIUM,
BRAGA, PORTUGAL
EDUARDO SOUTO DE MOURA
Initially, a site lower down the hilland nearer the river was earmarked
for the stadium, but the potential risk of flooding during construction
(the Minho region has one ofthe wercest climates in Europe) was
considered too great. Moving the building up the hillside presenced a
different challenge in the creation of a huge rockclined amphitheatre
that cradles the new stadium ina craggy, primeval embrace. Ina
‘geotechnical feat of Herculean proportions, one milion cubic metres
‘of granite were blasted out ofthe hillside and then crushed to make
the aggregate used inthe stadium's concrete structure, s0 the building
literally grew out of the ste
‘The carving and shaping ofthe hillside was achieved by a succession
cof small, precise explosions to form a 30m-high cefe in the rock chat
frames the south-east end of the stadium, Studded by 2 series of
steel pins to prevent landslides, the granite cliff looms over the pitch:
the mute drama of manipulated geology replacing the more usual
human animation. Its an unequivocally powerful tableau ~ the bald
bare rock face is barely a couple of metres from the playing surface —
butt also posits the slightly surreal spectacle of offtarget shots
rieocheting unpredictably off the granite. At the eppesite end,
undulating banks of earth landscaped with grass and trees meld the
structure more gently into the landscape, emphasising its strong
topographic character.
‘This intimate relationship between the man-made and nature hat
{echoes of the ruins of Delphi and other Classical Greek sites, and
Souto de Moura's explorations of these prompted reflections on
architecture exposed by excavation. Approached from the main
‘external plaza on the north-east side, che stadium resembles a modern
archaeological relic poised in an excavated landscape. The two
‘grandstands frame the pitch in symmetrical tiers of seating, but are
expressed in quite different ways. The south-west stand is dug into the
hillside co create a Piranesian undererofe of stir, lits and concourses
set against a backdrop of living rock. Light is drawn down into the
bowels ofthis Stygian labyrinth through a series of vertical shafts that
extend upwards to a plateau-like terrace wedged into the hillside at
inipinyers nein enn