Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Background[edit]
Outfits from Highland Rape, Autumn/Winter 1995–96, presented at Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
McQueen family tartan[14][15]
Runway show[edit]
[This] collection is . . . romantic but melancholic and austere at the same time. It was gentle but you could still feel the bite of
cold, the nip of the ice on the end of your nose. . . . With bustles and nipped waists, I was interested in the idea that there are no
constraints on the silhouette. I wanted to exaggerate a woman's form, almost along the lines of a classical statue.
Alexander McQueen, Another Magazine, Autumn/Winter 2006[1]
Show[edit]
Audience members entered the space through a large glass pyramid.[31] Seats were arranged around
a square stage of rough wood, reminiscent of the wooden stage in his collection No.
13 (Spring/Summer 1999). Another glass pyramid was placed in the centre of the square, leaving a
catwalk in which the models walked counter-clockwise.[31][61] In contrast to Highland Rape, when the
models staggered or stalked angrily down the runway, the models in Widows moved in a stoic,
upright manner which Gleason described as "the attitude of warrior princesses".[31][45]
Widows of Culloden comprised fifty-one ensembles across three broad phases, each look worn by a
different model.[61][56] The show opened with dresses, sweaters, and tailored suits in tweeds, Aran
knits, and brocades of muted neutral shades.[27][29][56][62] The next phase comprised dark-coloured outfits
with a focus on tartan and black leather, followed by a series of black evening gowns sometimes
taken as mourning dresses.[17][41][62][63] The final looks were a set of lighter-coloured gowns, some of
which were worn with frock coats.[62][64] The show closed with a Pepper's ghost illusion within the glass
pyramid, featuring a life-sized projection of Kate Moss, an English model and friend of McQueen's,
wearing a billowing chiffon dress.[20] It was the first fashion show to employ this kind of illusory effect.
[65]
After the illusion ended, as a curtain call, all the models walked the runway in a parade to
the Donna Summer song "Last Dance" (1978), followed by McQueen.[56][66]
Significant ensembles[edit]
The show opened with Ukrainian model Snejana Onopka wearing a tweed suit with a fur collar,
cream shirt with ruffled front, and tan-coloured leather boots. The look was styled with the "Bird's
Nest" headdress, made from a pair of mallard duck wings surrounding a silver bird's nest with blue
eggs made from quartz Swarovski crystals, speckled to look like duck eggs.[35][56][67] The nest and eggs
were created by British jeweller Shaun Leane, while the headpiece was made by Treacy; both of
whom were long-time McQueen collaborators.[45][67]
Look 12 was a full-length dress covered entirely in pheasant feathers. Its long torso and flared lower
portion reference the style of gowns from the 1890s.[1][56] Researcher Kate Bethune described the
unique construction of the dress: "each of the feathers has been individually hand-stitched onto a
length of ribbon, and then these lengths of ribbon have been stitched onto a net ground".[68] Jess
Cartner-Morley of The Guardian called it "meticulously engineered" and likened it to a full-length
dress made of razor clam shells from Voss (Spring/Summer 2001).[37] Fashion theorist Jonathan
Faiers wrote that the lavish use of game bird feathers evoked Scotland's transformation into a
"sports arena for absentee English landlords" in the late Victorian era.[50]
Look 14 was a blouse and midi skirt ensemble of a light material, printed with a collage of realistic
images of birds, moths, and skulls. It was paired with a tan fur coat that matched the skirt's hemline,
and a wide belt of dark leather at the waist.[56][69] According to textile curators Clarissa M. Esguerra
and Michaela Hansen, the print represented "the collection's themes of nature, metamorphosis,
and memento mori".[69]
Look 33 was a one-shouldered tartan dress with tulle underskirt, styled with an undershirt of sheer
fabric with rose designs in black, creating an illusion of arm and chest tattoos.[20][56] The model's waist
was cinched by a large belt in dark leather with a Celtic buckle.[20] Roses paired with plaid was a
combination used on some Jacobite clothing.[70] On the runway, it was styled with the "Bird Skull"
headpiece, which featured black feathers and a silver-case eagle skull set with dark Swarovski
crystals.[67]
Brazilian model Raquel Zimmermann wore Look 47, one of the collection's most-discussed
ensembles, a full-length ivory gown in silk tulle and lace with an antlered headdress.[1] The flowers
from the lace were individually cut and hand-sewn to the tulle.[71] The dress ended in a fishtail hem
with a tumble of lace ruffles set on the bias; Watt noted a similarity to dresses in the paintings of
French artist James Tissot.[26][62] For the headpiece, a £2,000 piece of hand-embroidered lace was
draped over and pierced by a pair of translucent white Perspex antlers to form a veil.[72][71] The gown
was based in part on the wedding dress of Sarah Burton, a designer with McQueen's label. Some
sources refer to it as a wedding dress, but it has also been called the Widow's Weeds, after the
Victorian term for women's mourning clothing.[72][73][74] McQueen previously employed a similar
headpiece using antlers and black lace in Dante (Autumn/Winter 1996), which reappeared in his
2004 retrospective show Black.[24][75][76]
Look 48 was a flowing gown in off-white chiffon, worn by Australian model Gemma Ward, with
butterflies placed in the hair as accessories.[56] Both Judith Watt and fashion journalist Dana
Thomas described it as an evolution of the oyster dress, from Irere (Spring/Summer 2003), inspired
by Galliano's shellfish dress.[51][77] Cartner-Morley connected the use of butterflies to the final
showpiece of Voss, in which artist Michelle Olley was "besieged by giant moths".[37]
Reception[edit]
English model Kate Moss, 2005
Contemporary reviews were highly positive.[42] McQueen received a standing ovation at the runway
show, a rarity in fashion.[37][78][79] Reviewers particularly noted McQueen's tailoring as one of the show's
strongest features.[18][23][47] The illusionism of Kate Moss dress was regarded as the highlight of the
runway show.[17][25][80] Women's Wear Daily named Widows one of their top ten collections for the Fall
2006 season.[81] It had the highest pageviews at Style.com for any major collection that season, with
1.7 million.[82] Robert Polet, then chairman of Gucci Group, the parent company for McQueen's label,
reportedly cried "bravo!" upon seeing it and ran backstage to congratulate McQueen.[78][83] Elizabeth
McMeekin of The Glasgow Herald suggested the collection had helped drive a trend for Scottish-
inspired fashion that season.[27]
Many reviews noted that the collection was both artistic and commercially viable.[18][23][47] McQueen did
not always achieve this balance – his designs were notorious for being unwearable – so critics felt
this was a positive development for his brand.[32][84][85] According to Jonathan Akeroyd, then CEO of the
Alexander McQueen brand, the looks chosen for the runway "represented about half of what was
available" for sale from the collection.[78] Akeroyd reported that sales were strong for the collection
and credited the theatrical runway show for driving brand awareness.[78] Writing in the International
Herald Tribune, fashion journalist Suzy Menkes concurred, calling the collection's eveningwear "a
brand image-maker".[86] Several of the evening gowns were suitable for ordering as custom bridal
gowns.[18]
Writing for Vogue, Sarah Mower called it a "timely reconfirmation of McQueen's unique powers as a
showman-designer".[56] For The Daily Telegraph, Hilary Alexander said that it "restored the true spirit
of the romantic renegade to the catwalk".[62] Lisa Armstrong at The Times wrote that "almost every
item was a showstopper but also eminently wearable", although she called the Moss illusion
"unspeakably cheesy".[47] According to Susannah Frankel at The Independent, the show was "a
return to the unbridled spectacle and raw power with which he made his name", citing its
"juxtaposition of fragility and strength, masculinity and femininity".[32]
The collection is viewed favourably in retrospect. In a 2011 interview with Vogue, Sarah Burton, who
succeeded McQueen as the label's head after he died in 2010, described Widows as one of his most
iconic collections.[72] In 2012, Judith Watt called the sculptural aspects of some designs close to the
"purist cutting of Cristóbal Balenciaga", a Spanish designer known for technical precision and unique
silhouettes.[87][88] Dana Thomas said that Widows represented a "Best of McQueen in the 1990s" in
her 2015 book Gods and Kings, writing that many ensembles appeared to be revisions of
McQueen's own earlier designs.[24] British fashion curator Claire Wilcox described Widows in 2016 as
a "masterly, romantic collection".[17] Edinburgh-based journalists Caroline Young and Ann Martin
wrote that the collection's slim-fit tailored tartan suits "presented the designer's refined craftsmanship
at its very best".[30] Speaking in 2020, author Vixy Rae said "it had a focus of extreme technicality
matched with richness of imagery with ideas taken directly from Scottish costume".[4]
Analysis[edit]
Autobiography and historicism[edit]
McQueen's work was highly autobiographical: he incorporated elements of his memories, feelings,
and personal fixations into his designs and runway shows.[89][90] Widows, with its emotional focus on
both McQueen's and Scotland's history, is generally regarded as one of his most autobiographical
collections.[32][91][92] Deborah Bell, a professor of costume design, cited curator Andrew Bolton in noting
that the "romantic version of historic narrative" from Highland Rape and Widows was "profoundly
autobiographical" for McQueen, and suggests this is the reason that it was so impactful.[93] Fashion
theorists Paul Jobling, Philippa Nesbitt, and Angelene Wong called the collection "a personal
reckoning with [McQueen's] own past", particularly his relationships with his mother, sister, and
Isabella Blow.[94] Women's Wear Daily noted that "the clothes seemed perfectly to describe
McQueen's own eccentric point of view".[18]
Historical references are a major component of The Widows of Culloden, resulting in critical
discussion over whether the collection is modernist or historicist. Cultural theorist Monika Seidl
discussed Widows as a collection in the vein of Romanticism, a 19th century movement which
emphasised emotion and glorification of the past.[95] She cites it as an example of fashion that "self-
confidently plays around with time when fragments from the past are blatantly and visibly reactivated
as the new look of the moment".[96] Cathy Horyn of The New York Times argues that McQueen was
"a storyteller", which positioned him as anti-modernist.[97] She criticised the historical elements
in Widows as an unnecessary obstacle between McQueen and his designs.[97] Historian Jack Gann
argued that, in effect, it was both: the modern and historical elements combined to show that
"perception of our place in time is simultaneously of multiple eras".[98]
Costume curator Lilia Destin noted that the collection subverted typical historical narratives by
decentring warriors in favour of their widows, and wrote that it "awards their ghosts a sense of
transhistorical agency through memory".[99] Jobling, Nesbitt, and Wong argued that McQueen's
description of Widows as more "triumphant" than Highland Rape actually indicates that the widows
are celebrating, not mourning, the deaths of their husbands.[100] Historian Timothy Campbell wrote
about Highland Rape and Widows in the coda to his 2016 book Historical Style, describing them as
counter-arguments to the notion that traumatic events in history must be experienced only in a state
of grief. In Campbell's words, "McQueen suggests, Culloden must first be resurrected or remade as
something other than tragedy in order to be historically impactful".[101]
Gothic elements[edit]
See also: Illusion of Kate Moss § Analysis
Critics have described The Widows of Culloden as an exploration of Gothic literary tropes through
fashion, and some have compared it to specific works of classic literature.[104] Gothic fiction, as an
offshoot of Romantic literature, emphasises feelings of the sublime and the melancholy, but is set
apart by its focus on fear and death.[105][106] It is distinguished from other supernatural genres by its
focus on the present as a state inevitably haunted by the past: literally, in the form of ghosts, as well
as metaphorically, through memories and secrets.[106][107][108]
In McCaffrey's view, Widows exemplified melancholy – in the Gothic sense of "tensions between
beauty and heartache" – through its visual staging.[31] The stoic performance of the models
represented a dignified grief that he likened to "visions of gothic heroines stalking the candle-lit
corridors of an ancient castle".[31] McCaffrey called the illusion of Kate Moss an example of highly
staged melancholy, with every element contributing to the audience's emotional involvement.[31] Kate
Bethune presented a similar analysis, noting that the collection's sense of melancholy was
"consolidated in its memorable finale".[20] For Faiers, the models, and especially the Moss illusion,
represented "the ghosts of the past unable to contend with the march of fashionable progress".[7] The
Bird's Nest headdress and the Bird Skull headpiece from Looks 1 and 33 respectively have been
discussed as a set which represents the cycle of life and death, and the fragility of beauty.[67]
Discussing McQueen's proclivity for the gothic more generally, the professor of literature Catherine
Spooner highlighted his fascination with dark aspects of history. She noted that in several of his
most historical collections, including Highland Rape, Widows, and In Memory of Elizabeth Howe,
Salem, 1692 (Autumn/Winter 2007), the "distressed fabric; screen-printed photographs; fragments of
historical dress disassembled and reordered" reflect the disturbing aspects of history he drew on for
inspiration.[104] Author Chloe Fox wrote that McQueen had "mined the refined sense of an aristocratic
past" to produce the collection.[42] Literature professor Fiona Robertson found that McQueen's
Scottish collections and the historical novels of Scottish writer Walter Scott epitomised the Scottish
style of gothic by focusing on the country's "broken and self-alienated national history".[109]
The mood of Widows may be read as part of a shift towards darkness and melancholy as an
aesthetic in fashion, which some authors have argued was a response to global turmoil and
increased nihilism following the turn of the century.[86][110][111] Art historian Bonnie English noted that
McQueen was one of a number of major designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Yohji
Yamamoto, and Marc Jacobs, who produced sombre collections for the Fall/Winter 2006 season.
[112]
In a 2019 New York Times essay discussing the cultural archetype of the melancholy woman,
writer Leslie Jamison described Highland Rape and Widows as emblematic of an "aesthetic of
suffering" in fashion.[113]
White gowns[edit]
Miss Havisham from Dickens' Great Expectations
The lace gown with veiled antlers – the Widow's Weeds – has provoked significant critical response,
much of which focused on the theatrical and animalistic effect created by the headdress.
[114]
McQueen later said that the look "worked because it looks like she's rammed the piece of lace
with her antlers".[1] Lisa Skogh wrote that the veil over the antlers suggested a "dramatic bridal
crown".[115] Watt described it as "creating a phantasmagorical hybrid beast-woman".[26] Author Sarah
Heaton noted that the antlers "insist on the feminine relationship to the land, nature, and psyche".[116]
Both the antlered gown and the chiffon gown worn by Moss have been analysed as wedding
dresses. From this perspective, the antlered gown has been read as especially ambiguous: the veil
can be seen as entrapping, protecting, or concealing the bride who wears it.[71] It has drawn
comparisons to the wedding dress obsessively worn by the spinster Miss Havisham in the
novel Great Expectations (1861).[117][118]
Heaton, whose work focuses on the intersection between fashion and literature, described these two
long white dresses as "revisionist" wedding gowns that evoke the Gothic to subvert its limitations.
[73]
In her view, the lace veil uplifted on the antlers of McQueen's ensemble is reminiscent of Miss
Havisham's wedding veil, but where Miss Havisham's veil is shroud-like and grotesque, the veil of
McQueen's design "suggests the strength of femininity".[119] The illusion of Moss, on the other hand,
evokes the Gothic trope of the barefoot "mad woman"; normally this figure would be confined to an
attic or asylum, but again McQueen subverts the expectation by displaying her to the public, making
her ephemeral and uncontained.[119]
Cultural theorist Monika Seidl considered the same pair of gowns from a more critical perspective in
2009, arguing that they framed their wearers "as trophy and ... as victim".[120] For Seidl, far from
presenting feminine strength, the antlers in combination with the gamekeepers' clothing referenced
earlier in the show evoked an image of the bride as a hunting trophy.[120] She viewed the Moss illusion
as presenting a contained "Wiedergänger" or vengeful spirit.[120] However, she described both
dresses as persuasive in the way they "destabilise the notion of a bride".[120]
Other analyses[edit]
The look of the feathered outfits has been compared to the Harpy, a bird-woman from Greek mythology.
Post-humanist theorist Justyna Stępień argued that McQueen's use of unusual silhouettes and
structures, particularly in Widows and Plato's Atlantis (Spring/Summer 2010), provoked an emotional
reaction in the audience and forced them to reconsider their perception of the human body.[91]
Analysing McQueen's tendency to incorporate and reinterpret styles from various cultures, Esguerra
and Hansen compared the use of Highland dress in Widows to the interpretation of Islamic
dress in Eye (Spring/Summer 2000). They found that Widows succeeded because of McQueen's
connection to Scottish culture, enabling him to present a collection with a strong narrative. In
contrast, they felt that Eye suffered from a lack of personal knowledge, and came across
as insensitive to the diversity of Islamic culture.[121]
In an analysis of fashion as a performative intersection of sex and gender, Paul Jobling, Philippa
Nesbitt, and Angelene Wong examined Widows as a "poetic text" relating to McQueen's identity as a
gay man, and his ideal of feminine empowerment through fashion.[92] They examined McQueen's use
of feathers as a subversion and expansion of typical gender roles which see men as predators and
women as prey. In their analysis, the models resemble bird-women in mythology, such as the
Greek Harpy and the Russian Gamayun, who are beautiful yet dangerous threats to "phallocentric
male power".[92] McQueen's use of animal motifs thus allows women to explore different types of
femininity and female power, without being constrained to any particular binary.[122] They further
argue that McQueen's combination of "masculine" tartan with "feminine" fabrics like lace is another
subversion of the gender binary, allowing the widows to step into a liberated role following the
deaths of their husbands.[100]
Writer Cassandra Atherton described using several McQueen collections, including Widows, in a
university-level creative writing course to teach a connection between poetry and fashion,
particularly how one can inspire the other.[123] Literature professor Mary Beth Tegan described
using Highland Rape and Widows together in 2021 as a teaching aid to engage university students
in the short story "The Highland Widow" by Walter Scott (1827).[124] She found that the "affective
glamour of Gothic tale and fashion spectacle ... roused my students' interest and sustained their
reflections" about both the story and the fashion.[125]
Legacy[edit]
Discussing being fitted for the dress by McQueen: "He had these gorgeous hands. And he just worked. And he was quiet and
unthinkably shy, didn't look in your eyes much, didn't want to, wasn't interested in engaging; it wasn't important for me to be his
friend. You know, he was very concerned about his work."
Sarah Jessica Parker, speaking to Savage Beauty curator Andrew Bolton, undated.[1]
Actress Sarah Jessica Parker attended the opening of the 2006 AngloMania: Tradition and
Transgression in British Fashion exhibition at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met)
wearing a version of Look 33 from Widows, the one-shouldered tartan dress. McQueen
accompanied her wearing a matching tartan great kilt.[1][34] Elizabeth McMeekin called it a "chic,
tremendously of the-moment" choice.[27]
Dresses from Widows have appeared in magazine photoshoots and editorials. Gemma Ward wore
Look 33 for an editorial fashion shoot in the July 2006 issue of Harper's Bazaar, styled with the
Spitfire headpiece from Look 44.[56][126] Moss wore the original dress from the illusion on the cover of
the May 2011 issue of Harper's Bazaar UK.[127][128] Look 47, The Widow's Weeds, and Look 48, the
chiffon dress with butterfly accessories, appeared in "Dark Angel", a 2015 retrospective editorial of
McQueen's work in British Vogue by fashion photographer Tim Walker.[129]
Fashion collector Jennifer Zuiker auctioned her McQueen collection in 2020, including at least two
pieces from Widows. A tartan dress, Look 30 from the runway show, sold for a reported $9,375, and
a floral ballgown, Look 50, sold for a reported $68,750.[130][131][132]
The Met owns the original Look 33 tartan dress ensemble with the sheer undershirt, as well as Look
30, another tartan dress.[133][134] The Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A) in London owns a variant
of the Kate Moss dress.[135] The National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) in Australia owns 14 ensembles
and mockups from Widows, including Look 33 and Look 50.[136][137][138] The majority of these were gifted
by philanthropist Krystyna Campbell-Pretty in 2016 as part of a larger collection.[139]
Museum exhibitions[edit]
Several ensembles from Widows – at least five tartan looks, the pheasant feather dress, and the
Widow's Weeds – appeared in Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, a retrospective exhibition of
McQueen's designs shown in 2011 at The Met and in 2015 at the V&A.[1][140][141] The Kate Moss illusion
made an appearance at both versions of the exhibition. In the original presentation at the Met, the
illusion was recreated in miniature, but in the V&A restaging, it was presented in full size in its own
room.[b][143][144] The NGV displayed the collection donated by Campbell-Pretty in 2019 as the Krystyna
Campbell-Pretty Fashion Gift. The exhibition included items from several McQueen collections,
including Widows.[139]
Items from the collection appeared in the 2022 exhibition Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos,
Muse, first shown at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and later in expanded form at the
National Gallery of Victoria.[145][146][147] Widows was placed in the Fashioned Narratives section of the
exhibition, which highlighted collections focused on stories, both original and historical.[148]
Mind, Mythos, Muse compared one sleeveless dress with high-necked ruff and gold beading from
the Widows collection to the ruffed and embroidered outfit worn by King Louis XIII of France in the
painting Portrait of Louis XIII, King of France as a Boy by Flemish painter Frans Pourbus II (c. 1616).
[145]
Two tartan ensembles from the runway show were compared to a 1780 portrait of Hugh
Montgomerie, 12th Earl of Eglinton by John Singleton Copley. During the time the portrait was
painted, the wearing of tartan in Scotland was prohibited, except for soldiers and veterans, by
the Dress Act of 1746. In Copley's painting, Montgomerie, wearing tartan, poses triumphantly over
defeated Cherokee warriors. In reality, Montgomerie was not present at the battle being depicted,
which occurred during the Anglo-Cherokee War in 1760; nor was it a British victory. The exhibition
presents the Widows outfits as a counterpoint to the colonialist narrative in the portrait.[149]
Notes[edit]
1. ^ The song, called "Lee's Sarabande: Dealing for the Sarabande", went unreleased until it was used
in the 2018 documentary film McQueen.[57][58][59]
2. ^ In a review of the exhibition, media theorist Johannes Birringer refers to the hologram as "scaled
down, in a small dark room", but other sources state that it was full-size compared to the miniature
version presented at the Metropolitan Museum.[142]