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Garcia Rojas

Antonio Garcia Rojas

Trishia Briones

English 1302-261

March 2023

Analyzing Western and Eastern Fashion Trends Throughout History

Introduction:

Since the start of civilization, fashion has been used to represent many different things,

but more importantly, it’s a part of the human identity. By simply looking at the drastic

differences in fashion ranging from each culture to each, noticing how their fashion ties back to

their culture is a beautiful thing that should be appreciated. One of the most intriguing aspects of

fashion is the way in which it is influenced by trends and traditions, both within a particular

region and across the globe. In this research analysis essay, the connections, agreements, and

disagreements of the research in the field of western and eastern fashion trends will be explored.

Fashion is something that traces back centuries, and it can be acknowledged that clothing is

something that roots itself in our culture, ideologies, sense of belonging, and many other aspects.

This demonstrates how garments are one of the many ways we express ourselves in a personal

level.

Culture Influencing Fashion:

One of the key topics that emerge is how cultural trends shape fashion. According to the

study by Edward W. Newton, et al. (2000), there is a strong correlation between cultural
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traditions and the evolution of fashion. In their article, they argue that “Beaton struck a fine

balance between conservatism and extravagance of the time in which he lived. Lacroix draws

inspirations from flea markets to the markets in Provence, from Jacques-Henri Lartigue's

paintings and photographs to scenes from Banana Split. Other sources include the circus, the

music hall, and the amphitheatre (Mauries 1996).” (Edward W. Newton, et al. 226). In this

fragment, the researchers present multiple examples, specifically from Europe, that demonstrate

just how many designers draw inspiration from the world around them, and how the range of

inspiration seems endless. This sentiment is echoed by the study conducted by Kyselova,

Shandrenko, and Shcherbak (2021), who explore the influence of stage images of rock musicians

on the formation of modern trends in clothing design. The authors argue that “fashion is not only

a reflection of social changes but also a driving force behind them” (Kyselova et al. 271). Even

though this example comes from the effect of rock musicians on clothing trends, it still remains

true that anything culturally significant can further help people at expressing themselves through

means such as music and clothing. This has been shown by even the earliest of civilizations.

According to the article by Steele and Roces (2022), fashion has never been a European or Euro-

American topic. Inside their article, Steele argues that “fashion is not simply a European, Euro-

American phenomenon or a Western phenomenon. It’s quite clear that there are examples of

fashion in nonwestern cultures that go back as far as 8th century Heian Japan.” (Steele and

Roces. 19). When talking about clothing, even America’s oldest civilizations like the native

Americans had an extremely diverse range of customs and rituals that required different

garments. These customs are beautifully shared across the globe spanning since the start of

civilization.
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The Difference Between the Western and Eastern Hemisphere:

However, while there is a clear connection between fashion and cultural trends, there are

also significant differences between western and eastern fashion trends. Again, the study by

George W. Newton, et al (2000) explores these differences, highlighting the unique cultural and

societal factors that shape fashion trends in each region. According to the authors, “Japanese

design and fashion have concentrated on refining, not changing, what existed already. Japanese

designers have never worked on the same basis as Western designers, and do not have an endless

appetite for change in the Western sense.” (George W. Newton, et al. 240-241) As argued by

Newton, western fashion is characterized by individualism, consumerism, and an emphasis on

personal expression that’s always constantly changing, while Japanese fashion usually gives

more emphasis on values, tradition, and modesty.

The Eastern Influences:

Despite these differences, Eastern and Western fashion have had many influences in each

other, especially regarding the 20th century and onwards. There have been significant impacts on

both Eastern and Western fashion achieved through one another. In “The Japanese Revolution in

Paris Fashion” Kawamura mentions how the Japanese innovated Paris fashion in the 1980s by

introducing new techniques, materials, and designs (91). The focus on minimalism, asymmetry,

and innovative fabrics were particularly noteworthy, and these elements are still evident in

contemporary fashion. This is just a small example of how designers can achieve new looks and

innovations just by working with each other, mixing customs and traditions is a big part of the
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modern world. Part of this cross-learning has already been achieved by those working in fashion,

especially since everyone has been inspired by something, no matter how small. In “Japanese

Fashion: A Cultural History”, Slade notes that Japanese fashion designers also played a

significant role in promoting a new type of beauty, one that valued androgyny, deconstructed

forms, and unconventional beauty standards (549). This emphasis on breaking traditional gender

norms has been embraced by many designers in the West, resulting in a blending of cultural

styles and help humanity to progress and break harmful gender roles. In addition, Kawamura’s

book "Fashioning Japanese Subcultures," discusses how many of the Japanese subcultures have

reached the west, for example, she mentions that one of these subcultures stands for

"childishness, innocence, vulnerability, and femininity" (Kawamura 52). And mentions how an

example of this reaching the West is the cartoon and characters of ‘Hello Kitty’.

The Western Influences:

One of the most notable and influential examples of western fashion influencing the east

is the Japanese designer, Issey Miyake. As mentioned by George W. Newton, et al. “Issey

Miyake was the first Japanese designer to establish an avant-garde, Western hybrid form of

fashion at an international level.” (George W. Newton, et al. 232) Miyake, as mentioned by

Newton, et al., is a designer that looked to create a new fashion genre that isn’t neither eastern

nor western (233). By grabbing traditional Japanese worker’s clothes and usual attires, such as

the kimono, he transforms and creates new compositions using European methods such as

pleating and other inspirations coming from western art waves like cubism and futurism (235).

Another great example is the influence of rock music in America and how it created trends
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worldwide. According to Kyselova, et al., rock musicians have a profound impact on clothing

design, with many designers looking to them for inspiration (271). Furthermore, the concept of

the rock star as a fashion icon has been explored extensively, with David Bowie being a

particularly notable example (Mendes 546). Through the wave of rock, styles like grunge

emerged, they influenced the east and made the popularity of rock rise including the punk

aesthetics. As the world advances, there are many places looking to show these influences, as

Garcia-Rada mentions, "The Palais Galliera is now a modern and dynamic museum that

combines the best of traditional curatorial practices with the latest digital technologies.” (Mathey

García-Rada 185). Acknowledging how both sides influence each other, specifically in fashion,

can help at noticing it in the real world through other aspects besides clothing.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, this research analysis essay has explored the connections and differences

between the field of western and eastern fashion trends. Key issues and subtopics that emerge

from the sources we have collected, such as the influences of American or British rock and

Japanese animation create aesthetics highlighting the similarities and differences between the

two regions while also being joined together through many ways. While cultural traditions play a

significant role in shaping fashion trends, the modern world’s ease of communication and

information exchange facilitate the creation of new waves and inspirations in fashion. With this,

it can be seen just how impressive and expensive the history of clothing is. Through research,

one of the missions of this essay is to help people notice the subtle influences we see every day

that come from other cultures, while also helping others appreciate human ingenuity and
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creation. Like Breward states, "Fashion is, and always has been, an active part of how people

construct their identities and communicate their cultural values and aspirations." (Breward 36)
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Works Cited

Sau Chuen Joe Au, G. Taylor, E. W. Newton. "East and West Think Differently: The
European and Japanese Fashion." Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process &
the Fashion Industry, vol. 2, no. 2, 2010, pp. 221-238,
https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/eb022592/full/html.

This scholarly article compares European and Japanese fashion from a cultural
perspective. The authors argue that the differences in aesthetics and design philosophy are rooted
in cultural values and worldviews. They explore the historical and contemporary contexts that
have shaped each region's fashion industry. The article also discusses the implications of these
differences for international fashion collaborations and the future of the fashion industry. This
source will be useful for anyone interested in cross-cultural design, global fashion markets, or the
impact of cultural differences on creative industries.

Roces, Mina and Steele, Valerie. "Fashion Is Changing All the Time, Everywhere". A
Brief Overview of the Field of Fashion and Dress Studies." Fashion Theory: The Journal of
Dress, Body & Culture, vol. 53, no. 1, 2022, pp. 15-24,
https://hasp.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/journals/iqas/article/view/18158

In this article, Roces and Steele provide a comprehensive overview regarding the field of
fashion and dress studies. They discuss the historical development of fashion, the various
theoretical perspectives that inform the field, and the key issues and debates that have emerged.
They also highlight the interdisciplinary nature of fashion and dress studies, writing insights
from anthropology, sociology, history, and cultural studies. Overall, this article serves as an
excellent introduction to the field of dress studies and provides a valuable resource for scholars
interested in this area.

Mathey García-Rada, Sandra. "A History of Fashion, Collecting & Exhibiting at the
Palais Galliera." Dress, vol. 48, no. 2, 2022, pp. 181-185.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/03612112.2022.2081387.

In this chapter, Sandra Mathey García-Rada provides an overview of the history of the
Palais Galliera, which is the fashion museum of the City of Paris. She explains how the
museum's collections were initially formed in the early 20th century, and how it has since
become a leading institution for the study and display of fashion. The author also discusses some
of the major exhibitions that have been held at the Palais Galliera over the years, including
shows on the works of designers such as Balenciaga, Jeanne Lanvin, and Madeleine Vionnet.
She also discusses some of the challenges faced by the museum, such as limited space for
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exhibitions and the need to balance historical accuracy with contemporary relevance. Overall,
this chapter provides a useful introduction to the Palais Galliera and its role in the world of
fashion and museum studies. The author's clear and engaging writing style makes this a valuable
resource for anyone interested in the history of fashion exhibitions.

Kyselova, Kateryna, Olha Shandrenko, and Alina Shcherbak. "Stage Images of Rock
Musicians and Their Influence on the Formation of Modern Trends in Clothing Design."
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, vol. 39, no. 3, 2021, pp. 271-284.

This article discusses the impact of stage images of rock musicians on modern trends in
clothing design. The authors explore the history of rock music and how it has influenced fashion,
particularly in the areas of punk, grunge, and glam rock. The authors argue that the visual
aesthetic of rock music, which includes leather jackets, studded belts, ripped jeans, and band t-
shirts has had a lasting impact on fashion and continues to influence clothing design today.

Mendes, L.P. "The Rock Star as Fashion Icon: A Case Study of David Bowie's Style."
Popular Music and Society, vol. 38, no. 5, 2015, pp. 546-560.

This article focuses on David Bowie's influence on fashion and style. The author
examines Bowie's early career as a rock musician and how his stage images, including his iconic
Ziggy Stardust persona, influenced fashion trends of the time. The author argues that Bowie's
unique style and willingness to experiment with gender norms paved the way for new trends in
fashion and continue to inspire designers today.

Slade, Toby. Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History. Berg Publishers, 2009, pp. 549-552.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.2752/175174110X12792058834211

This book examines Japanese fashion from the 16th century to the 1990s. The authors
analyze the historical and cultural influences on Japanese fashion, including the impact of
Western fashion, the role of the kimono, and the emergence of avant-garde fashion. The book
includes a chapter on the fashion trends in Japan during the 1990s, including the rise of street
fashion and the popularity of "Harajuku style."

Kawamura, Yuniya. The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion. Berg Publishers, 1993,
pp. 91-150. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.2752/136270404778051771

This book examines the influence of Japanese fashion designers on the global fashion
industry, particularly in Paris. The author analyzes the ways in which Japanese designers have
challenged and transformed traditional fashion norms, including the use of asymmetry, layering,
and new materials. The book includes a chapter on Japanese fashion trends in the 1990s,
including the emergence of street fashion and the influence of Japanese designers on the global
fashion scene.
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Downey, Lynn. "Blue Denim by the Bay: The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives." The Public
Historian, vol. 35, no. 1, 2013, pp. 62-83.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/174963009x419782

In this article, Downey provides a detailed account of the Levi Strauss & Co. Archives,
which contain historical documents, photographs, and artifacts that illustrate the company's 160-
year history. Downey describes the collection's organization and scope, including its emphasis on
corporate history, employee relations, and product development. She also discusses how the
archives have been used for research and outreach, highlighting examples of exhibitions and
publications that draw on the collection.

Breward, Christopher. "Cultures, Identities, Histories: Fashioning a Cultural Approach to

Dress." In Fashion Studies: Research Methods, Sites, and Practices, edited by Heike Jenss, 35-
46. New York: Routledge, 2016.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270498779476127

In this chapter, Breward argues for the importance of a cultural approach to

understanding dress and fashion, which recognizes the complex ways in which clothing and style
are connected to issues of identity, representation, and power. He explores the ways in which
fashion can be seen as a cultural practice, and how it can be studied through a range of
disciplinary lenses, including anthropology, sociology, and history. Breward emphasizes the
need for interdisciplinary collaboration in fashion and suggests that a cultural approach can help
to address important questions about fashion's role in shaping social, political, and economic
structures.

Kawamura, Yuniya. “Fashioning Japanese Subcultures.” London, Berg Publishers, 2012.

https://web.s.ebscohost.com/ehost/detail/detail?vid=0&sid=44dfa055-d634-46df-a665-
6629c55c6e88%40redis&bdata=JkF1dGhUeXBlPXNzbyZhdXRodHlwZT1zc28mY3VzdGlkPX
M5NjA5NTM3JnNjb3BlPXNpdGU%3d#AN=611863&db=e000xna

In this book, Kawamura provides an overview of the development and evolution of

various subcultures in Japan, including the Harajuku Street fashion, Lolita fashion, and cosplay.
She explores the ways in which these subcultures challenge conventional norms of dress and
identity, and the role of fashion in the construction of new forms of cultural expression.
Kawamura also examines the ways in which subcultures are influenced by and interact with
broader social, economic, and political contexts, and how they can serve as a form of resistance
against dominant cultural values.
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