Rock climbing around the Batu Caves Cliffs

Some of the most pleasant rock climbing in Malaysia is to be found around the Batu Caves area on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. The
cliffs here are very accessible and cosmopolitan with their approaches through kampungs; the sounds of life echoing up the cliffs as you
climb and the ever present ‘calls to prayer’ giving an indication of passing time. There is a wide variety of styles from overhangs to
walls/faces and slabs. Given the cliffs’ accessibility and popularity, you’ll often be climbing with a wide range of people and abilities, so
it’s frequently possible to have a top rope on a route at the limits of your ability/bravery if you ask politely.

To try and keep up to date and put the information out for all to find and make use of, here are the latest versions of topos. Enjoy!

There are several multi-pitch scattered through out the cliffs here. Please be careful when doing these route so you don’t drop rocks,
branches, or gear onto the people below. If you stand below the routes, wear a helmet and be aware that there might be climbers (and
monkeys) above you, so be vigilant for objects falling out of the sky.

The rock is limestone but within the cliffs you will notice tufas, flow stones, infilled caves etc. which all give variety to the different cliffs
as well as within a cliff. The lower parts of most of the cliffs tend to have cracks, flakes and edges; higher up, the rock is frequently a
smoother and more compact limestone that becomes water-worn with pockets and flakes towards the top of the route/ cliff. While the
rock is generally good, loose rocks can be found. Routes which aren’t climbed often soon become covered in vegetation and require
cleaning. Do this carefully with regard to people below you.

The belays at the top of most routes are two bolts that are usually linked by a chain with maillons or abseil/lower-off rings. IF YOU ARE
TOP ROPING A ROUTE, PASS THE ROPE THROUGH YOUR OWN QUICKDRAWS; the continual sawing of the rope through the lower-off
rings at the belays wears them out and risks killing people! Put the quickdraws in at the start of your climbing day and remove them
when you have finished, for everyone’s safety and enjoyment. Several routes still use slings with maillons on them as lower off points.
These degrade very quickly in the Malaysian sunshine and rain. If in doubt, leave a karabiner and lower from that rather than risk your
life using the old slings.

This guidebook is produced with the co-operation of Climb Malaysia team who’ve allowed the reproduction of their crag drawings and
topos from their now-out-of-print book “Climb Malaysia”. This new guide is freely available to encourage people to explore a bit beyond
the normal routes. Most of the routes here are sports routes relying on bolt protection so please make a donation to the Malaysian
Bolt Fund—www.malaysianboltingfund.com. Creating and maintaining the routes is expensive —up to 1000 MYR for a properly
equipped route with lower offs, which cost around 150-200 MYR. If you’ve enjoyed a day’s climbing please put something back to the
local climbing community by making a donation.

This guidebook is a guidebook not an instruction manual on how to climb.

Users of this guidebook should recognise and accept that climbing is a dangerous activity that
carries the risk of personal injury or death. When climbing or watching, people should be aware
of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. This guidebook only provides
information on the routes on the cliffs around the Klang Valley. It is not an instruction manual on
any aspect of climbing; neither does it provide any guarantee that the bolts, threads or any other
in-situ protection are safe and will hold a fall. Several routes are protected by threaded slings or
rope; given the local climate these quickly loose their strength, so if you start up one of these
routes be prepared to place your own threads to back up the in-situ or even better replace the in-
situ slings with some new ones. If you don’t want to use the in-situ gear, then learn how to place
and use your own gear. The author and other contributors will not be held responsible for any
This is the only piece of instruction—how to
injury or death to persons using this guidebook. Routes change, rocks work loose, bolts rust and
fail, threads wear out, lower off methods and points change. If you don’t like the look of the gear, set up a top rope anchor. The chains
don’t do the route; come back another day and either replace the gear or are prepared to use through the bolts have been removed for
your own. The indoors experience is no school or substitute for the outdoors! clarity.

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 The Batu Caves area cliffs

KURA KURA
Red Rocks Damai
RED ROCKS
DAMAI
White Wall
WHITE WALL
Kura Kura
Nyamuk NYAMUK
VOLLEY BALL COURT
NANYANG
ROADSHOW WALL
Volley Ball
Court COMIC WALL

Nanyang
Comic Wall &
Roadshow Wall
Publicity Wall

Access to the cliffs using Waze or Google Maps.

Note - many of the cliffs require access through the narrow kampong streets and lanes. In order to maintain
good relations with the locals, please park sensibly and thoughtfully; they need access, we can walk a bit to fol-
low our past-time.
Kura Kura—Park just beyond Kondomonium Semarak
Red Rocks, Damai, White Wall— Parking at Gua Extreme Damai. For White Wall walk through the kampong
Nyamuk—Parking in the industrial area of Jalan TIB3/1,2 or 3; then walk down Lorong Melati.
Please don’t drive down this road.
Volley Ball Court—Parking on Lorong Siantang 3 or better in the vicinity of Jalan TIB 1/4 and then walk
Nanyang—Parking on Jalan SM5 and walk over the bridge
Roadshow Wall, Comic Wall, Publicity Wall — Parking Jalan SM1 and walk through/ round the temple complex.

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 KURA KURA
This recently developed cliff lies on the north west side of the Batu Caves area. Be warned—it’s a bit of a hike to the foot of the cliff
(similar to Bukit Takun). If using Waze put in Kondomonium Semarak , not Jalan Raintree Utama else you’ll end up on the wrong
side of the rail track. Parking can be found anywhere along Jalan Raintree Utama outside Kondomonium Semarak. Follow the dirt
track past a container, watching for the dogs, until you reach a fence and locked gate. Scramble over the rocks at the right side end
of the fence and then follow trail, that initially hugs the base of the cliff above. The trail is marked by occasional red painted squares
on suitable rocks. Follow these to the foot of the route. There are two fixed ropes over steep sections, the last ends just below the
gearing up point. It takes about 20-30mins from the road to the base of the cliff. The base of the cliff is very clean—please keep it
there—take your rubbish away and don’t leave partially burn egg boxes or mossie coils here.

P P

The approach to Kura Kura—overview
The start of the trail to The end of the fence. Pass this using the You have arrived.
Kura Kura. Pass the pile of rocks at its end and then follow the
container on the left, trail upwards along the side of the cliff
watch out for the dogs! passing a series of red paint marks on the
rocks. If in doubt back track to the last red
mark and have a good look around for the

KURA KURA ROUTES

3 4
2 7
5

Fixed rope round corner

above steep craggy broken
1 ground

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 Pass the Corona 6a Looking up PTSBee 7a+ The start of Kura Kura P1 6b

KURA KURA ROUTES

At present, the route to do at here is the euphonious named route Kura Kura. From the flat area at the foot of the cliff traverse right round a corner (old fixed rope) to
gain a second, small flat area. Kura Kura heads straight up the line of bolts in a corner system to the right of an interesting set of tufas and holes leading up the cliff. A
long and interesting traverse left across the orange and white stiped wall then ensues (two pitches) which gives access to the final corner/chimney system. The forth
pitch is sustained, then the final (5th) pitch can be climbed in two different ways - the easier and original heads right and climbs a corner (6a) - a bit vegetated but still
good climbing. The alternative and newer final pitch climbs straight through a steep roof apparently on jugs apart from the crux near the top at around 7a.

Descent is by abseiling pitches 5 and 4 to the belay at the end of the traverse (P3) , then straight to the ground— a 70m rope will get you down from the
end of P3, anything shorter will see you in mid air unless you have 2 ropes.
All the other routes are single pitch and can be done on a 60m or 70m rope.

1 Nasal probe for reentry 6c Length & No of bolts ?

2 Never Try, Never Know 4c Length & No of bolts ?

3 Project Grade uncertain

4 Pass the Corona 6a 20m 8 bolts

5b
5a
5 Hobbit Hole 5c+ 20m 8 bolts

6 PTSBee 7a+ 30m 11 bolts

4

7 Kura Kura

P1 6b 30m 12 bolts 3

P2 6c+ 12m 5 bolts

35m abseil to
P3 5c+ 18m 7 bolts the ground!! 2

1
P4 6c+ 15m 6 bolts

P5a 6a 13m 5 bolts

70m rope needed
P5b 7a+ 18m 7 bolts Photo provided by Ian Teh www.ianteh.com

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 DAMAI AND RED ROCKS
Damai must be one of the most climber friendly cliffs around to start climbing on. A short walk in, pagodas to store your gear or provide
a seated viewing spot and shelter under from the rain or sun and a wide variety of routes in terms of styles and also grades. Conse-
quently the place is very popular with guided groups trying climbing for the day or people taking their first steps into climbing outdoors.
The makan shops are close by as well.
Red Rocks lies to the right of Damai, a short walk away. At present it’s vegetated, overgrown and rather neglected in favour of Damai
and other cliffs. Perhaps with some attention the routes might come back into favour again.
Damai is split into several sections. The Central Sector which faces you as you walk in, is the most popular part and where most begin-
ners and guided groups go; the reddish coloured wall lying to the left of an obvious water hole is the Left Sector with the Far Left cliff a
bit further round the corner. The Cave and Right Sector is in the area with several large trees which provide shade and an alternative
place to climb in the late morning—early afternoon, out of the sun depending on season. All the areas have a red all weather rubber
particle pavement around the base of the cliff, though this does get very slippery when wet. Use a rope bag or tarp to keep you and
your gear clean. As Damai is popular with guided groups, especially at the weekends, be tolerant of these people—they are there for
their enjoyment and first outdoor routes; we were all beginners once. If your route is occupied, go and do another route; or ask if you
wish to lead or use the preplaced ropes to top rope the route.

GETTING THERE

If you’re driving or using Grab or other Ride Shares, search for "Gua Damai Extreme Park". This will bring you right to the crag, next to
the office where you pay 5rm (local and resident), 10rm (foreigner); you can also hire gear and buy water. For food —just walk back to
the main road where there are several food shops. Using normal metered taxis can be harder as they’re not likely to know where
'Kampung Wira Melayu' is, and may try to drop you at the Batu Caves temple which is diametrically opposite where you want to be, and
is quite a distance to walk (or get another taxi). There are several hotels in the area for people who want to stay close to the cliffs.

THE DAMAI SECTORS

The three principle sectors are Damai Left, Damai Main and Damai Right. Damai Left is split into Damai Far left and Left—these lie to the
left of the kiosk and drain and the routes are all single pitch though some require a 70m rope. Damai Main contains a variety of multi
pitch routes (Damai Main multipitch) as well as numerous single pitch routes Damai Main Left single pitches and Damai Main Right sin-
gle pitches. The right area is split with Damai Right Cave and multi pitch, Damai Right single pitch and Damai Far Right.

The multi-pitch routes are scattered through Damai; please be careful when doing these route so you don’t drop rocks, branches or
gear onto the people below. If you stand below the routes, wear a helmet and be aware that there might be climbers (and monkeys)
above you, so be vigilant for objects falling out of the sky. The belays at the top of most routes are two bolts usually linked by a chain
with maillons or abseil/lower off rings. IF YOU ARE TOP ROPING ROUTES USE YOUR OWN QUICKDRAWS for top roping. The continual
sawing of the rope through the rings wears them out. Put your quickdraws in at the start of your day and remove them when you are
finished for everyone’s safety and enjoyment. Know how to set up and clean a lower off point. See earlier for the cost to equip a route
or replace a lower off.

Red Rocks Far Right

Right Single Far Left

Pitches

Right Cave &

Left
Multi Pitches

Centre Right Centre Left

Centre
Single Pitches Single Pitches
Multi Pitches

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 RED ROCKS
This is the prominent red wall to the right of the main Damai cliffs. Access is by a path from the football field to
the cliff passing by a dirt bike track. The cliff has fallen out of favour in recent years and so the bolts should be
treated with care. The cliff is shaded for most of the day.
The wall is generally overhanging but the numerous large stalactites hanging down the walls reduce the difficulty
of many routes. The reddish limestone is softer than the more usual white limestone and consequently the foot-
holds become polished quickly. The routes are all bolted but the lower off points need re-equipping (and proba-
bly the bolts as well). A 60m rope is sufficient for all the routes.
Thanks to Climb Malaysia for permission to reproduce the cliff topo and route details.

The routes have not been checked for the state of the in situ gear.

Route Number Route Name

RR1 Blood Brothers 6b+ 13m 6bolts

6b 7b 6b 7a 6b 5c
RR2 Tomodachi 6b 14m 6 bolts 6b

Return of the Spotted Owl 6a

6 8
RR3 20m 8 bolts, 2 threads 6b+ 6a 5c
Two finishes at the same grade 7
5 9 10
Topo reproduced with 1
2 3
RR4 Owl Face 5c 15m Trad gear permission from Climb 4
Malaysia
RR5 Sweet Child of Mine 6b 20m 9 bolts

RR6 Nacho Cheese 7b 20m 9 bolts

RR7 Yen’s Route 6b 23m 9 bolts

RR8 Cool Ranch 7b 20m 9 bolts

RR9 The first Temptation 20m 6b 9 bolts

RR10 Atlantis 5c 18m Trad gear

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 DAMAI

Damai – Far Left Wall Copyright G Scott

6B
6C 5C+
6B+

5C

L1
6B
L2
5C+
L3

L4 L5

L6 L7

Route Number Route Name Note – Single PITCH ROUTES IN WHITE. The
first bolt on each route is painted red.
L1 Unknown 1 6b 23m 8bolts

L2 Nyamuk Aedes 6c 24m 8 bolts

Bolts and lower offs are expensive to
replace.
L3 Unknown 2 6b+ 24m 9 bolts 2 threads

L4 Aker Molek 5c 15m 6 bolts Please top rope through YOUR QUICK-
DRAWS, not the lower off rings.
L5 Muji 5c+ 14m 7 bolts

L6 Puteri 5c+ 9m 3 bolts

L7 Puteri Variant 6b 9m 3 bolts

Notes —

The threads on Unknown 2 (L3) are in a poor state and need replacing. Until this happens take and place your own.

An un-named route Penyamun? is shown on the Lunar Topos to lie to the right of L3. However no bolts or lower off

point have been seen to confirm this route. The route is not shown on any other topos.

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 Damai – Far Left Wall Copyright G Scott

6A

6B

6A+ M1

6A L17a
6A+
6A
6B
6A 6A
6B
6A

L18 L19
L7 L8 L9 L16 L17
L10 L15
L11 L12 L13 L14

Route Number Route Name Route Number Route Name Notes —

Puteri Variant 6b Meslin Jaya (?) 6a+
L7 L14 The vegetation changes with season over
9m 3 bolts 30m 14 bolts
Unknown 3 6a+ Singing Wall 6a this part of Damai.
L8 L15
26m 10 bolts 32m 14 bolts
There is considerable confusion and disa-
Unknown 4 6a Aciaci Buka Pintu 6a+
L9 L16 greement over the names of the routes in
24m 10 bolts 30m 14 bolts
Sunday (?) 6a 3 Brothers 6b this sector. The routes are well established,
L10 L17
28m 11 bolts 28m 14 bolts with the first bolt being painted red and
Unknown 7 6a Jah love climbing 6a the grades generally not in dispute. Howev-
L11 L18
25m 11 bolt 32m 14 bolts
er different on/offline guides give different
Basejumper (?) 6b Water on the Rocks 6a+
L12 L19 names to the routes they show; not all the
32m 12 bolts 25m 11 bolts
TQ Doyok (?) 6a+ Sasau 5c+,6a+ guides show the same routes, routes follow
L13 M1
33m 12 bolts P1 5c+ 25m different lines and their location varies.

Brothers love climbing, 6a+ 32m 14 bolts—

climbs the groove line directly, starting up

3 Brothers and finishing up Jah Love

Climbing (L17a).

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 Damai – Main Wall , all routes Copyright
G Scott

C4a

C9

M20a

M17
C19

M1 M25
M14 M15 M16 M18 M20 M21
M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M8 M10 M11 M12 M13 M22 M23 M24

Route Route
Route Name Route Name Note – Multi pitch routes in
Number Number
COLOUR, Single pitch routes
M1 Sasau 5c+,6a+
in WHITE. The first bolt on
M13 Monkey Line 5c, 5c, 5c*
each route is painted red.
M2 TJ 6a, 6a+ M14 Ghana Power 5c

M3 Ichineesanghait 5c, 6b M15 Lead Man 5c Route M20a is the belay for
top roping Monsoon
M4 Up Step 5c M16 Lightning Grip ** 6b

M4A Unknown 6b/b+? M17 Golly Gully 5c Bolts and lower offs are
M5 Sweet Maria 5c, 6a+ M18 Rainman 6a expensive to replace.
M6 Duckula 5c M19 Thunder 6a
Please top rope through
M7 Permaisuri 5c M20 Monsoon 6a+, 6b, 6a
YOUR QUICKDRAWS,
M8 Redemption Song 5c, 6a+, 6b M21 Bad News 6a, 6c?
not the lower off rings.
M9 The Bank Robber 5c, 5c, 5c M22 KL Connection 5c, 6c?

M10 Granular Spindrift 5c M23 Virgin Climb 6a

M11 Good Onion 5c, 6a, 6b M24 Crack X 6a, 6c

M12 Reservoir Doggin‘ 5c+ M25 Dry Season 6c, 6b, 6c, 6c+, project

Multi pitch routes in red with grades for each pitch;

single pitch routes in black with grade.
Monkey Line requires trad gear—cams, nuts and threads

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 Copyright
Damai – Main Wall , multi pitch routes G Scott

C9

M1 M25
M2 M3 M5 M8 M11 M13 M20 M21 M24

Route Number Route Name Route Number Route Name Note – Multi pitch routes in COLOUR, Single
Good Onion pitch routes in WHITE. The first bolt on each
Sasau
P1 25m 5c 8 bolts 2 threads route is painted red.
M1 P1 5c+ 22m 10 bolts M11
P2 28m 6a 10 bolts
P2 6a+ 25m 9 bolts
P3 20m 6b 8 bolts
Monkey Line Bolts and lower offs are
TJ P1 25m 5c
expensive to replace.
P1 6a 28m 12 bolts P2 20m 5c
M2 M13
P2 6a+ 25m 12 bolts P3 20m5c
This route needs cams, nuts
and threads
Please top rope through YOUR QUICK-
Ichineesanghait DRAWS, not the lower off rings.
Monsoon
P1 5c 28m 13 bolts
P1 25m 6a+ 11 bolts
M3 P2 6b 25m 12 bolts M20
P2 25m 6b 10 bolts There is little evidence for a second pitch for
Note better to belay/abseil
P3 18m 6a 6 bolts KL Connection. The bolts for the second pitch-
off Route 4a

Sweet Maria Bad News

es of Bad News and Crack X can be seen run-
M5 P1 22m 5c 10 bolts M21 P1 28m 6a 12 bolts ning up the cliff, with nothing in between.
P2 25m 6a 9 bolts P2 25m 6c? 10 bolts

Redemption Song The bolts on the second pitch of Crack X are

P1 26m 5c 11 bolts
M8
P2 27m 6a+ 9 bolts
P3 20m 6b 6 bolts
The Bank Robber
P1 26m 5c 11 bolts
M9 P2 27m 5c 6 bolts, 4 threads,
2 cams (BD 0.4 & 1)
P3 20m 2 bolts 3 threads
Crack X poor quality and in a bad state.
M24 P1 20m 6a 7 bolts
P2 25m 6c 10 bolts
The Bank Robber and Monkey Line require
Dry Season
nuts, threads and cams for protection. The
P1 25m 6c 10 bolts
P2 5m 6b 2 bolts
threads are not in-situ as they deteriorate
M25 P3 15m 6c 7 bolts quickly and also to maintain a spirit of adven-
ture in a sanitised climbing world.
P4 15m 6c+ 7 bolts
P5 15m 6c+ 7 bolts

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 Damai – Main Wall LEFT, single pitch routes
6A+ 6A+ Copyright
6B
6A+ 6A+ 6A+
5C
6A G Scott

6A

5C

5C

5C 5C

5C 5C
5C

5C

5C
5C

M1 M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M10 M11 M12

M8

Route Number Route Name Route Number Route Name Route Number Route Name
The Bank Robber
Sasau Unknown
P1 20m 5c 9 bolts
M1 P1 22m 5c+ M4A 28m 6b/b+? M9
(same as Redemption
10 bolts 12 bolts
Song)
TJ Sweet Maria
Granular Spindrift
M2 P1 28m 6a M5 P1 22m 5c M10
16m 5c 6 bolts
12 bolts 10 bolts
Ichineesanghait Good Onion
Duckula
M3 P1 28m 5c M6 M11 P1 25m 5c 9 bolts, 2
28m 5c 11 bolts
13 bolts Threads
Up Step
Permaisuri 5c Reservoir Doggin‘
M4 30m 5c M7 M12
P1 26m 5c 11 bolts 10m 5c+ 3 bolts
12 bolts
Redemption Song
M8
P1 20m 5c 9 bolts

Note – Multi pitch routes in COLOUR, Single pitch routes in WHITE. The first bolt on each route is painted red.

Bolts and lower offs are expensive to replace. Please top rope through YOUR QUICKDRAWS, not
the lower off rings.

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 Damai – Main Wall RIGHT, single pitch routes

M20*
6C

6B 6A

6A
6A+

6A
6A

5C+

5C 5C 5C
5C

5C
5C

M12
M13
M14
M15 M16 M17 M18 M19 M20 M21 M22 M23 M24 M25

Route Route Note – Multi pitch routes in COL-

Route Name Route Name
Number Number OUR, Single pitch routes in WHITE.
The first bolt on each route is
Reservoir Doggin‘ Rainman
M12 M18 painted red.
10m 5c 3 bolts 16m 6a 6 bolts
Monkey Line
Thunder Bolts and lower offs are ex-
M13 P1 5c 25m M19
15m 6a 5 bolts pensive to replace.
Trad climbing
Monsoon **
Ghana Power
P1 6a+ 28m 10 bolts Please top rope through
M14 10m 5c M20*
Belay on right for
3 bolts 1 thread YOUR QUICKDRAWS, not
single pitch
Lead Man Bad News the lower off rings.
M15 M21
12m 5c 5 bolts P1 6a 28m 12 bolts
Lightning Grip ** KL Connection
M16 M22
25m 6b 14 bolts P1 5c 10m 7 bolts
Golly Gully
Virgin Climb
M17 18m 5c 5 bolts 1 M23
15m 6a 7 bolts
thread
Rainman Crack X *
M18 M24
16m 6a 6 bolts P1 6a 20m 7 bolts
Thunder Dry Season*
M19 M25
15m 6a 5 bolts P1 6c 25m 7 bolts
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 Damai – Right Wall , Cave and multi pitch

C6 ? ?
C5

C7
C2
R19
R17 R18

C4

R5
M25
C3 R15
Copyright
R11
C1 R10 G Scott

Route Number Route Approach-

For the Cave routes (C1—7) — Obtain
the key to the gate for the yellow stairs
Dry Season* 70m
M25 P1 25m 6c 10 bolts, P2 5m 6b 2 bolts, P3 15m 6c 7 bolts leading to the big cave at the entrance
P4 15m 6c+ 7 bolts, P5 (Project) 10m 6 bolts kiosk.

Routes off the middle ledge can be ac-

C1 No name 26m 6b+? ? Bolts ? Threads cessed by doing R5 or routes R10-12
C2 No name 15m 6c 6 bolts Route uncertain and extending the pitch to the chains
on the ledge.
C3 Roof Deception 14m 6c+ 7 bolts Route uncertain
Be careful on the approach, in the cave
c4
Enter the Dragon 15m 7c 14 bolts and at the base of the upper climbs, as
The roof up on the right side of the cave up the staircase. the ground can be slippery and sandy.
Be aware of people below, as any loose
Un named 25m 6c+, 6c rock you break off may hit them.
C5
P1 20m 6c+ 10 bolts 2 threads P2 5m? 6c 2 bolts?
NOTE – many of these routes aren’t
C6 X Foot 20m 6b 6 bolts climbed frequently; there are still loose
rocks and vegetation on the upper
C7 No name 25m? 6b/6b+? ? bolts pitches which can and do regularly fall
Bengali Pewai 90m off. Please be careful when climbing to
R4 P1 25m 5c+ 12 bolts, P2 20m 6c 12 bolts, P3 15m 5c 5bolts NOT to drop rocks (or gear). If standing
P4 20m 5c+/6a 8 bolts at the base be aware of people climbing
above you and WEAR A HELMET.
R17 Badmington Grip—details unknown
It is possible to combine one of lower
R18 Details unknown the single pitch routes with a route off
the ledge system that runs across the
R19 Badmington Grip Righthand details unknown cliff to the right of R4. However many
of the details of the upper routes are
limited and not fully known. The
routes might not be fully bolted.

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Damai – Right Wall, Left

Route Num-
Route Name
ber
Unknown 1 5c+
R1
8m 4 bolts
Unknown 2 5c
R2
8m 4 bolts
5C 5C+ Unknown 3 5c
5C+ R3
R10 18m 7 bolts
5C Unknown 4 5c
R4
5C 18m 7 bolts
R9
Bengali Pewai
R5 5c+, 6c, 6a, 5c
90m 4 pitches
6A Unknown 5 6a+
R6
6A+ 8m 3 bolts
Unknown 6 6a
R7
R1 8m 3 bolts
R2 Unknown 7 5b
R8
10m 3bolts
5B R9
Anchor 6a
R3 15m 5 bolts
Unknown 8 5c+
R10
15m 5 bolts
Unknown 9 6a
R11
R4 28m 10 bolts
R5 R6
Copyright G Scott R7 R8 Unknown 10 5c
R12
22m 8 bolts
Unknown 11 6a+
Damai – Right Wall , Centre R13 25m 10 bolts 2 threads
(poor state)
Kek Lapis 6b
27m 12 bolts
R14
Long quickdraws useful low
down to reduce rope drag

It is possible to extend Routes 11, 13 and 14

onto the ledge above and climb the routes
above. However the state of these upper
routes in terms of bolts and rock quality has
NOT been assessed and the routes off the
upper ledge may be in progress—please
check with the people making these routes.

Note – Multi pitch routes in COLOUR, Single

pitch routes in WHITE. The first bolt on
each route is painted red.

Bolts and lower offs are expensive

to replace.

Please top rope through YOUR

QUICKDRAWS, not the lower off
rings.
M5
R7

Copyright G Scott R8 R9 R10 R11 R12 R13 R14

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 Damai – Right Wall , Right Route
Route Name
Number

Kek Lapis 6b
27m 12 bolts
R14 Long quickdraws useful
low down to reduce rope
drag

Shorty Don’t Care 5c+

R15
7m 3 bolts

Go Ayan Go Sayang 5c+

R16
8m 4 bolts

R17 Mono 6c 8m 2 bolts

R18 Unknown 6c 6m 3 bolts

Pisau/ Graffiti Wall 6c

R19
6m 3 bolts

There is reputed to be a trad

climb further right of R19, but
despite searching little evidence
of this can be found – very
thick vegetation

Note – single PITCH ROUTES IN WHITE.

The first bolt on each route is painted red.
R19
R14 R15 R16 R17 R18 Copyright G Scott
Bolts and lower offs are
expensive to replace.

If top roping these routes, please

use YOUR QUICKDRAWS, not the
lower off rings for top roping

PLEASE MAKE A DONATION TO the

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 Damai—All Routes Tick list
Route Number Route Name Done Route Number Route Name Done

L1 Unknown 1 6b M18 Rainman 6a

L2 Nyamuk Aedes 6c M19 Thunder 6a
L3 Unknown 2 6b+ M20 Monsoon ** 6a+, 6b, 6a
L4 Aker Molek 5c M21 Bad News 6a
L5 Muji 5c+ M22 KL Connection 5c, 6c?
L6 Puteri 5c+ M23 Virgin Climb 6a
L7 Puteri Variant 6b M24 Crack X * 6a, 6c

L8 Unknown 3 6a+ M25 Dry Season* 6c, 6b, 6c, 6c+, 6c+

L9 Unknown 4 6a C1 No name 6b+?

L10 Sunday (?) 6a C2 No name 6c
L11 Unknown 7 6a C3 Roof Deception 6c+
L12 Basejumper (?) 6b C4 Enter the Dragon7c
L13 TQ Doyok (?) 6a+ C5 Un named 6c+, 6c
L14 Meslin Jaya (?) 6a+ C6 X Foot 6b
L15 Singing Wall 6a C7 No name 6b/6b+?
L16 Aciaci Buka Pintu 6a+ R5 Bengali Pewai 5c+, 6c, 5c+,5c+/6a
L17 3 Brothers 6b R20 Badmington Grip—??
L18 Jah love climbing 6a R21 Unknown - ??
L19 Water on the Rocks 6a+ R22 Badmington Grip Righthan

M1 Sasau 5c+,6a+ R1 Unknown 1 5c+

M2 TJ 6a, 6a+ R2 Unknown 2 5c

M3 Ichineesanghait 5c, 6b R3 Unknown 3 5c

M4 Up Step 5c R4 Unknown 4 5c

M4A Unknown 6b/b+? R5 Bengali Pewai 5c+, 6c, 5c+,5c+/6a

M5 Sweet Maria 5c, 6a+ R6 Unknown 5 6a+

M6 Duckula 5c R7 Unknown 6 6a

M7 Permaisuri 5c R8 Unknown 7 5b

M8 Redemption Song 5c, 6a+, 6b R9 Anchor 6a

M9 The Bank Robber 5c, 5c, 5c R10 Unknown 8 5c+

M10 Granular Spindrift 5c R11 Unknown 9 6a

M11 Good Onion 5c, 6a, 6b R12 Unknown 10 5c

M12 Reservoir Doggin‘ 10m 5c R13 Unknown 11 6a+

R14 Kek Lapis 6b
M13 Monkey Line 5c/6a, 5c, 5c
R15 Shorty Don’t Care 5c+
M14 Ghana Power 10m 5c
R16 Go Ayan Go Sayang 5c+
M15 Lead Man 5c
R17 Mono 6c
M16 Lightning Grip ** 25m 6b R18 Unknown 6c
M17 Golly Gully 18m 5c R19 Pisau/ Graffiti Wall 6c

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 Damai—All Routes Graded List
Route Route Route name Done OS, F,
Route name Done OS, F, Grade
Grade Number (first pitch only) RP, PP, HD
Number (first pitch only) RP, PP, HD
L8 Unknown 3
5B R8 Unknown 7
L13 TQ Doyok (?)
L4 Aker Molek

M4 Up Step L14 Meslin Jaya (?)

M6 Duckula L16 Aciaci Buka Pintu

6a+
M7 Permaisuri L19 Water on the Rocks
M10 Granular Spindrift
M20 Monsoon **
M12 Reservoir Doggin‘
R6 Unknown 5
M14 Ghana Power
R13 Unknown 11
M15 Lead Man
L1 Unknown 1
M17 Golly Gully
L7 Puteri Variant
M3 Ichineesanghait
5c
L12 Basejumper (?)
M5 Sweet Maria

M8 Redemption Song 6b L17 3 Brothers

M16 Lightning Grip

M9 The Bank Robber
C6 X Foot
M11 Good Onion
R14 Kek Lapis
M22 KL Connection
M4A Unknown
R2 Unknown 2

R3 Unknown 3 C7 No name
6b+
R4 Unknown 4 L3 Unknown 2

R12 Unknown 10 C1 No name

L5 Muji
L2 Nyamuk Aedes
L6 Puteri
M25 Dry Season
M1 Sasau
C2 No name
R1 Unknown 1
6c
5c+ R10 Unknown 8 R17 Mono

R15 Shorty Don’t Care R18 Unknown

R16 Go Ayan Go Sayang R19 Pisau/ Graffiti Wall

R5 Bengali Pewai C3 Roof Deception

6c+
C5 Un named
5c/6a M13 Monkey Line

L9 Unknown 4 7c C4 Enter the Dragon

L10 Sunday (?) R20 Badmington Grip

L11 Unknown 7 No R21 Unknown
L15 Singing Wall
Grade
L18 Jah love climbing R22 Badmington Grip Right Hand

M18 Rainman

M19 Thunder The grades are by consensus i.e. what’s been published before and for
6a
M21 Bad News an on sight attempt.
M23 Virgin Climb
OS—on sight; F—flash; RP— red point; PP— pink point; HD—hang
M2 TJ
dog.
M24 Crack X *

R7 Unknown 6 No attempt has been made to rank the routes within each grade.
R7 Anchor
There’s endless debate whether one 6b is harder than another 6b!
R11 Unknown 9
Also one person’s 6b+ might be another’s 6c especially if one route’s

on sighted and the other is pink pointed!

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 WHITE WALL—TO COME

The obvious wall of very white compact limestone! Climbing is generally face climbing with occasional cracks and tufas. Large trees
around the base keep the foot of the cliff shaded but higher up you can get a good suntan if you climb in the morning.

ACCESS—Please park at the Gua Damai car park to avoid annoying the locals in the kampong under the cliff – the streets are narrow
and parking limited.

From the Gua Damai car park walk towards White Wall initially along grass and then a increasingly better defined trail, which crosses a
drainage stream, and becomes a road. At the T junction turn right and follow the road, turning right at the official building. A trail
leads into the jungle and then steeply up to the cliff—see map below.

The routes are described left, where you arrive , to right. There are a couple of multi pitch routes and also a couple of pitches which
involve trad climbing.

Parking at
Gua Damai

White Wall

Cliff and route photos to come

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 12 9

10

5c
7a 6b
trad 6b
7a 7a+ trad

12
14
10 5c+

6c
6a+
6b
15
7a 6b
7a 22
5c 6a
6a
6c 7a
6b 6b
6b
6b
21
6 7 8 20
4 5 9 16 17 19
3 13 18
2
1 11
Topo reproduced with permission from Climb Malaysia

W1 Aimless 5c 20m 5 bolts

W2 Rainbow Connection 6a 20m 5 bolts
W3 Lockdown Madness 6b 20m 11 bolts
W4 Diana In Memory 6c 21m 8 bolts
W5 First July 6b 23m 9 bolts
W6 Opium War 6a 22m 9 bolts
W7 Kick a Cloud P1 6b 23m 9 bolts; P2 6b 10m 5 bolts Need 70m rope to do in 1 pitch
W8 Kavadi 7a 24m 9 bolts
W9 Chili Padi P1 7a 20m 9 bolts; P2 7a 15m 6 bolts
W10 Chili Padi left 7a 15m 6 bolts Left hand finish to Chili Padi
W11 Tahi Ayam 7a 18m 7 bolts Climbs the wall, the tufa and then the smooth
wall above
W12 Spicy Shit 7b 32m 12 bolts Extension of Tahi Ayam into second pitch of
Chili Padi to finish on big ledge
W13 Fake Meat 6b 15m 3 bolts Belay on the big ledge
W14 Premordial Soup 7a+ 30m 10 bolts Extension of Fake Meat to the left
W15 Nov’61 6c 20m 8 bolts Extension of Fake Meat to the right
W16 Hisap Gam 7c? Open project
W17 Classic Route P1 6b 15m 11 bolts; P2 6b 15m trad gear Second pitch needs trad gear and is rarely done
W18 Kiyoshi Delight 6b 20m 8 bolts
W19 La Face Cachee de White Wall 6c 28m 11 bolts
W20 Name of the Woman 6a+ 15m 8 bolts
W21 Enter the Dragon Remake P1 6a+ 15m 6 bolts; P2 5c+ 5m 2
bolts; P3 5c 10m 4 bolts
W22 Nasa’s Family 6b 20m Trad

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