INNOVATION FOR CREATING SUSTAINABLE

LIFESTYLE BRANDS: A CASE STUDY

Kunal Mankodi
1
Amrut Mody School of Management, Ahmedabad University

ABSTRACT
The Indian consumer has evolved since 1991, when multinationals entered India, offering products
and services which were not available earlier. He now has a large number of options to choose from
and globalisation has aided the cultural movement due to which the western lifestyles, products and
services are demanded by a typical upper middle class young consumer. He looks beyond product
utility, to seek intangibles like style statement associated with the product. But can a service become a
lifestyle statement? Can companies think of sustainable innovative business models? This paper
attempts to answer these questions with the example of an Indian Company called Kaya Skin Clinic, a
leading lifestyle brand in the professional skin care segment. The aim of the paper is to develop a
conceptual model and illustrate with example the role and relevance of innovation in creating niche,
urbane, and yet sustainable business. Kaya Skin Clinic has been able to create a whole new market
segment of scientific approach driven skincare solutions. What was once a supplementary service
offered by traditional beauty salons, has now become a thriving business model. Armed with a robust
proprietary Information and Technology architecture that facilitates Customer Relationship
Management, Loyalty and Referral Marketing, Kaya has created a lifestyle brand from what was once
a basic service. (Here - Lifestyle brands create a certain degree of style statement for consumers).
The case study shows that developing innovative business model by industry convergence, backed by
creation of entry barriers can give sustainable competitive advantage to firms and develop consumer
lifestyles.

Keywords: Industry Convergence, Innovation, Sustainability, Consumer Lifestyle, Skin Care

1 INTRODUCTION

The Indian consumer has evolved since 1991, when multinationals entered India, offering products and
services which were not available earlier. He now has a large number of options to choose from and
globalisation has aided the cultural movement due to which the western lifestyles, products and
services are demanded by a typical upper middle class young consumer. He looks beyond product
utility, to seek intangibles like style statement associated with the product. Socio-cultural,
psychographic and geo-demographic reasons have lead to this altered lifestyle (Joseph and Singh
2013) [1]. An average Indian today is younger, with a higher disposable income and a dispensation to
spend on sophisticated products and services which reflect his current lifestyle or the style he aspires
for than an Indian consumer a decade and half ago. (ASA & Associates, 2013) [2]. Wellness industry
is one the sectors which has witnessed a substantial positive impact of rising consumerism in India. As
per FICCI report by PWC, (2011) [3] report, „Riding the Growth Wave: Wellness‟, the overall size of
the wellness market in India stands at INR 490 bn and wellness services alone comprise 40% of this
market leading to the entry of a large number of domestic and international players in the market who
are trying novel and innovative methods to target customers offering a value proposition along with a
branded lifestyle which leads to dual satisfaction. The report further asserts that the future of the
wellness industry in India looks even more promising as the industry will grow at a CAGR of 20% to
reach INR 875 billion. Consumers and their needs will continue to evolve, driving the transition from
remedial care to a more holistic view on preventive care.

A domestic Indian company, Marico Industries, has been an early entrant into the wellness market in
India has been offering beauty and wellness services under the brand name of Kaya Skin Clinic and
the current paper attempts to study the innovative practice adopted by Kaya Skin Clinic to tap the

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potential growth opportunities offered by the market .

2 THEORETICAL BACKGROUND

2.1 The Contemporary Indian Consumer:

Changes in Indian economic policies have resulted in cataclysmic alterations in the lifestyle of an
average Indian, primarily in the consumption choices and patterns. Rising urbanization, increasing
number of women joining the workforce, higher disposable income and lucrative credit options
available has offered to the market young consumers today who are prepared to pay for an „extra
buck‟ for an experience which is the most intangible aspect of a „service‟. A few aspects which service
providers need to keep in mind are the following: Ambience in which services are offered; Service
term and offerings made; Busy Lifestyle of the New Age Generation; Financially independent Self
Conscious Woman and the „Made for You‟ approach.

2.1.1 Ambience in which service is offered: Powe, (2006) [4] indicated that lifestyle service
providers of the current times need to be very particular about the non-tangible consumptions. The
display or arrangement understood as the physical environment of the service area is a critical factor in
deciding how satisfied a consumer would be with the service offered and therefore impacting the
sustainability of the service (Bitner, 1992) [5]. The music, lighting, odour, sophistication and courtesy
expressed by the service staff impacts the consumers consumption and satisfaction from the service
(Baker, et.al, 2002) [6].

2.1.2 Service Term and Offerings Made: Most customers look at long term service agreement where
the service price and term is bundled in such a way that he can use uninterrupted long service without
having to invest too much into maintaining the service. The average Indian customer is price sensitive
and looks out for service options in the market before consuming a service. Therefore service
providers need to consciously watch out for various factors like service duration offered, maintenance
efforts needed for uninterrupted services, customer involvement in and finally the competitive prices
(The Marketing Association of Australia and New Zealand) [7]

2.1.3 Busy Lifestyle of the New Age Generation: Indian consumers are growingly getting busy and
involved in their jobs. There is a mass movement of workers to the cities where they lack any social
support system for care and consultation and therefore there is a dramatic rise in the services offered in
the cities. The busy life style brings along additional income but repercussions on health and therefore
an average urbane middle class Indian consumer is oriented towards consuming non-essential, lifestyle
oriented products and services.

2.1.4 Financially independent Self Conscious Woman: The population of working women has
increased and today over 26% of the working population are women (PWC) [8] leading to an addition
in the number of women who are financially independent and enjoy the confidence and freedom to
spend their earnings in consuming products and services which satiate their need to better leading a
happy self contended life. Sustainable development of services is only possible when women are
financially independent and manage to take decisions on their own (Eyben et al., 2008) [9]. A few
services which have witnessed an immediate and direct growth due to additional number of financially
independent women in the population are beauty and wellness sector; hospitality and day care services
and fashion industry.

2.1.5 Made for You: Papathanassiou (2004) [10] clearly stated that there is an increasing demand for
customized products and services which exactly fits the customers‟ needs. Contemporary customer is
highly conscious of his needs and expectations and therefore draws higher satisfaction from products
and services which are tailor-made to his needs. De Koning, Does, & Bisgaard, (2008) [11] reported
that competing services often use customization and individualization as a tool to tap a bigger market
share. Therefore services need to be become conscious of the fact that enhanced flexibility in design
and offering and a prompt response time are two basic essentials for their long-term sustainability in
the market Piller & Müller, (2004) [12].

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Apart from the consumer perspective there stand a few macro factors which impact the sustainability
quotient of an organization. A strategically designed organization keeps the following aspects in mind
while designing its internal and external structures.

2.2 Industry Convergence

Usually industries can be distinguished from each other based on variety of product and service
offerings which are catering to different markets, through the nature of firm and non-firm
organizations, through their knowledge and learning processes, etc. These differences imply a distinct
industry specific innovation system Caroll et al. (2000) [13]. At times of convergence, differences
between these industries in terms of the above characteristics begin to blur.
Although the concept of industry convergence has been predominantly used for analytical applications
in the areas of computing, communications and consumer electronics, it can be a lot more pervasive.
Prahlad (1998) [14] cited developments in the personal care products such as body lotions and
„cosmeceuticals‟, which have incorporated pharmaceutical technologies and processes in New Product
Development including clinical trials. Not much of literature is available to throw light on how the
concept of industry convergence is used in the services sector. The aim of this paper is to identify one
such firm which did it in the area of wellness industry.

2.2.1 Industry Convergence by Looking Across Alternative Industries

Kim and Mauborgne (2005) [15] in their path-breaking work on Blue Ocean Strategy, highlighted the
traditional way in which firms compete in search of sustained, profitable growth. Invariably, firms
fight for competitive advantage, battle for market share dominance which is usually led by price war
and hence in the process, struggle for differentiation. The authors argue in favour of “value
innovation” – creating powerful leaps in value for both:- the firm and its buyers, rendering concept of
rivals obsolete and unleashing new demand. In their seminal work, they have proposed a six path
framework which firms can take to ideate and actualise the idea of value innovation product. One such
path is: “Looking Across Alternative Industries” through which, firms can create an innovative
business model / product by looking across seemingly non-related industries by picking upon the
product-market attributes of both these industries and create a new one.

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2.3 Sustainability of Competitive Advantage
Ghemawat (1986) [16] argued that sustainable advantages can be categorised in terms of size in the
targeted market, and superior access to resources or customers. These advantages are not exclusive.
They can interact and the more they do, it creates a stronger base of competitive advantage.

2.3.1 Benefits of Size

Size advantages exist because markets are finite. If a business can commit to being large, competitors
may resign themselves to remaining smaller. What holds them back is the fear that if they matched the
leader‟s size, supply might exceed demand by enough to make the market unprofitable for everyone.
First-movers have to be especially wary of environmental changes that can erode the value of their
early investments. Such advantages have three possible bases: scale, experience, and scope.
Scope economies are derived from activities in interrelated markets. If they are strong, a sustainable
advantage in one market can be used to build sustainability in another. The term „scope economies‟
isn‟t just a newfangled name for synergy; it actually defines the conditions under which synergy
works. To achieve economies of scope, a company must be able to share resources across markets,
while making sure that the cost of those resources remains largely fixed. Only then can economies be
put into effect by spreading assets over a greater number of markets.

2.3.2 Access Advantages

Preferred access to resources or customers can award a business a sustainable advantage that is
independent of size. The advantage persists because competitors are held back by an investment
asymmetry: they would suffer a penalty if they tried to imitate the leader.

3 RESEARCH AIM AND METHODOLOGY

The research followed development of a case study from the insights gathered from primary and
secondary sources with an objective to look at how an Indian company has used innovative business
model in the services sector which has led to creating a sustainable lifestyle brand in the nascent
Indian Wellness (Skincare) Sector.

The research was exploratory in nature seeking to elicit top management‟s perspective on the strategic
rationale of entering the wellness sector and then to analyse the theoretical conceptions which back the
practitioner‟s perspectives. An in-depth interview was conducted after a discussion guide was
developed. The telephonic interview was conducted at a time of ease and convenience which was
fixed through a prior appointment with the-then CEO of Kaya, Mr. Ajay Pahwa (November 2009 to
April 2013). The interview lasted over 80 minutes with a break after about 50 minutes which the
respondent asked for. Respondent was encouraged to talk as much, or as little as he wished, only
probing to seek clarification and to explore in detail their comments. The responses were recorded and
then transcribed.

Within the context of the aim of the study, the author noted patterns and a theme to the inputs, drawing
linkages with literature. To extend the sustainability perspective study further, financial data of 5 years
was used to gauge the financial performance of the firm and then compared with financial
performance of Marico Ltd. (Financial year 2007-08 to 2012-13).

4 CASE STUDY: KAYA SKIN CLINIC

4.1 Introduction:
Marico Limited is one of India's leading consumer products & services companies operating in the
beauty and wellness space. Currently present in 25 countries across emerging markets of Asia and
Africa, Marico has nurtured multiple brands in the categories of hair care, skin care, health foods, male
grooming, and fabric care. Charting an annual turnover of Rs. 46 billion (Financial year 2012-2013)
across their portfolio, Marico's sustainable growth story rests on an ecosystem that promotes
innovation and value creation.

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4.2 Genesis of Kaya – An Innovative Approach of the Owners
Marico has always been an innvation-centric company. In 2002, a New York-based company asked
the CMD, Harsh Mariwala if he would be interested in selling laser hair removal machines, he saw a
business idea around the concept. After conducting extensive research, Marico identified an unmet
need for non-invasive Cosmetic Dermatology services in India. The Marico team travelled to the US
and UK scouting for international trends and best practices and came across a host of standalone shops
offering advisory services as well as solutions. Until then, consumerism of wellness products wasn‟t
thought of and the little bit of skin care service provided was only to the extent of basic supplementary
services such as facials, clean-up etc. provided by existing salons for males and females. In case
consumers had any skin related issue, the only source of avenue was getting the services rendered by
professional dermatologists. This prompted the company to set up Kaya, a range of skincare clinics.
The company decided to bring in a scientific approach by roping in dermatologists who first tested the
skin and then recommended a service. This highlights the „Looking Across Alternative Industries‟
approach for industry convergence. Hence, this way, the company started a prototype clinic in the
Marico Head Office in Mumbai.

4.3 The Kaya Experience:

“To transform in a sustainable manner, the lives of all those we touch, by nurturing and empowering
them to maximize their true potential.” (Annual Report 2009-10) [17]. This philosophy at Kaya is
governed by the single value of placing the customer first at all times. Kaya is all about personal
confidence through expert skin care which seamlessly blends looking good with feeling good about
our inner and outer selves at all times leading to highly customised and personalised services most
suited for Indian skin provided in a state of the art clinic ensuring that the first intangible of services,
„Ambience‟ is offered to the consumers. The customer centric approach is practiced across all service
points - services by the staff, the consultation by the dermatologists, service by the skin practitioners
or even the Kaya drink. Customers get personalised expert skin care administered with warmth at all
the touch points.

The company has identified three core differentiators – an in-house dermatologist, Offerings in the
form of personalized skin treatments, research based products and services which suit the Indian skin
type and weather which Kaya communicates effectively through various mediums. Its
communications strategy targets a typical modern day financially independent Indian woman who
looks after herself in a refined way. Kaya targets high end customers in socio-economic class A with
age group of 18-60 years across metros and mini metros in the country. The objective is to provide
result oriented, personalized, non surgical skin care solutions in a serene zen-like environment. (AR
2009-10). [18]

4.4 Growth:
Kaya has been growing and has increased its reach to 81 clinics across the country, in the metro as
well tier 2 cities. They also have 14 clinics in the Middle East and 2 clinics in Bangladesh in Dhaka. In
May 2010, Kaya acquired the aesthetics business of the Singapore based Derma Rx Asia Pacific Pte.
Ltd. (Derma Rx). During the course of this journey, Kaya now has over 600,000 customers which has
constantly risen over a period of time indicating sustainability which us backed by innovative
practices.

Kaya Skin Clinic was launched in December 2002 when there was no other organized player in the
market. The skin care market was dominated by individual dermatologists who provided limited
offerings with rudimentary technology. Kaya has revolutionalized wellness market in India, it has also
provided credibility and trust to the industry with specific reference to cosmetic dermatology leading
to an emergence of regional brands with a few clinics and individual doctors offering similar services.
However, no one has the scale or the range of technology and services that Kaya offers. The chain has
increased its focus on specialized service categories like laser hair removal, pigmentation, anti-ageing
and acne treatments, which has led to the average bill size increasing to Rs. 14,000 currently compared
with Rs. 12,000 a year ago indicating sustainable growth. The contribution of these specialized
skincare services to overall business has grown to 61% from 50%. The organization still offers regular

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healthy skin care services with average ticket size of Rs. 5,000 - 6,000 and it likewise has a reach of
administrations beginning from Rs. 2,000. (www.livemint.com) [19]

4.5 Competitive Advantage and Sustainability:

Kaya is operating in a large market space which is defined as non-invasive cosmetic dermatology.
Business models continue to evolve and even today a significant part of this industry is unorganized.
According to Mr. Ajay Pahwa, ex-CEO Kaya, sustaining its competitive advantage is possible
through:

1. Economies of Scale:
 A national brand that enjoys over 80% plus brand awareness, built on the back of national
mass media, digital and social media
 A robust proprietary IT architecture that facilitates CRM, Loyalty and Referral Marketing
 State-of-the-art technology – often exclusive to Kaya in India
 Products- Manufacturing, distribution and retail of proprietary range of products

2. Services/ Solutions Differentiation:

 Customer Knowledge: Knowledge from the 600,000+ strong existing customer base,
technology and CRM
 Service + Products Solutions approach to Skincare
 Continued focus on providing customized and efficacious skin care solutions comprising
services and products
 Introducing new technology and services in the country after extensive research and
customization to Indian skin type
 Maintaining the highest level of safety standards
 High quality customer experience
 Access to highly efficacious international products through Derma-Rx & technology partners
around the world
 Exclusivity agreements with international technology companies
 Dermatologist Expertise: Ability to attract & engage Dermatologists to expand business model
across geographies
 Innovation: Ability to partner in technological innovations

3. Business Sustainability through Corporate Parenting

Marico, which generated consolidated revenues of Rs 4,000 crore for the year ended March 31,
2012, had various brands that straddled categories such as hair oil, deodorant, edible oil, fabric care
and male grooming besides the Kaya skin care business.
What lingers as an issue of concern and worry for Kaya are the heavy over heads which cannot be
covered through penetration into limited markets of metros and tier 2 cities. The reported losses as
mentioned below in Table 1 (Financials for Kaya Limited), have been covered up to keep the brand
sustainable by corporate parenting of Marico Ltd., the FMCG major which has registered growing
profits over the same period, as mentioned below in Table 2 (Financials for Marico Ltd.)

Table 1: Revenues and Net Profit / Loss for Kaya Limited

Particulars Year
(in Rs. million) 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13
Sales 810.4 1183.7 1261.4 1080.2 1417.4 1436.6
Profit / (Loss) (31.9) (56.8) (307.9) (720.5) (750) (1047.5)
(Source: Company Annual Reports)

Table 2: Revenues and Net Profit / Loss for Marico Ltd.

Particulars Year
(in Rs. million) 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13
Sales 19050 23880 26610 31350 39800 45960
Profit / (Loss) 1690 1890 2320 2860 3170 3960
(Source: Company Annual Reports)

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4.6 Restructuring and the Way Forward
Marico Ltd. restructured its businesses into two entities – one housing its fast moving consumer goods
(FMCG) unit while spinning out the beauty and wellness business under a separate firm Marico Kaya
Enterprises Ltd (MaKE) through a vertical demerger to give a fresh impetus to the potent but „yet-to-
be-profitable‟ retail business.
The changes are a part of a restructuring exercise which began with the demerger of Kaya into a
wholly-owned subsidiary of Marico Ltd. The demerger was a strategic essential move by the parent
company as it saw a huge potential in the beauty and wellness services market which was estimated
at Rs. 11,500 crore in 2013. The industry grew at a compounded annual growth rate of 15-20%. Yet
many businesses in the sector find it difficult to turn profitable because of challenges such as high
rentals, utility and staff costs, which keep margins under pressure (PricewaterhouseCoopers).
“The skin care solution was a different business for us. We did go through the learning curve and the
insight we got was that we ramped up too fast. There is always a challenge in terms of competition
from smaller players with no overhead costs,‟‟ explained Mr. Mariwala (Chatterjee, P.) [20]. Analysts
believe that the decision to demerge will lead to greater focus on the skin care business by a different
team with a new entrepreneurial way of running the business. This may yield better results and also
provide an option of remerging, once this business becomes profitable.

4.6.1 More Focus on Products

In spite of Kaya‟s top-line growing, the same stores sales growth had slowed down to single digits
because the initial monetary commitment which a customer needs to make is high but Kaya is now
planning smaller stores with focus more on products than services leading to focussed marketing and
customer repeat with a long term commitment to enjoy Kaya services.
With the concept of Kaya Skin Bars being planned in cities of Delhi and Bangalore, these would stock
products rather than offer skin care services. The Kaya range is also being offered at counters in
Lifestyle stores. The Kaya brand would be adding 18 new skin care products and increasing the
number of stock keeping units to 54 with its extended Derma Rx range, which is a premium one,
leading to higher margins. The focus on product sales has led to higher footfall through a shift from
„cure‟ to „prevention and cure‟ positioning reflecting a proactive business strategy aimed at
independent women who are driven by logic and reason with limited access to suggestions and
opinions by others.

5 SCOPE AND CONCLUSION:

Through industry convergence, Kaya Skin Clinic developed an innovative business model in the
Indian Wellness Industry in the skin care market for women in such a way that going to a Kaya Skin
Clinic is a fashion as it has created a lifestyle statement. The business model of the company
comprises of offering skin care solutions to its customers who are largely financially independent
women capable of taking decisions and focussed on the „self‟. The service revenue includes packaged
services for which the consideration is collected upfront towards services to be availed by the
customers over a period of time ensuring a long term service agreement and commitment. These
advances are non-refundable and hence are designed to constitute revenue at some point of time in the
future. With strategic parenting from Marico, the company is in a position to sustain its advantage as
the pioneer in this field.

Sustainability of their advantage, despite of negative financial performance till date, can be attributed
to the corporate parenting available with the firm in the form of Marico Ltd. Now that the company
has been spun off as a separate entity, it remains to be seen whether the restructured company with
ideally an entrepreneurial approach can sustain financially become self-sustainable.

There is further scope for research to gauge whether a pure-play new entrant through industry
convergence can come up with a sustainable innovation which can create and change lifestyle trends
of consumers around in India and around the world.

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