QUICK REFERENCE DATA .. . CHAPTER ONE GENERAL INFORMATION . . . ‘Manual organization "Notes, cautions and warnings ‘Torque specifications Engine opeaton CHAPTER TWO TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES. ....... Safety frst Basic hand tools. ‘Test equipment. CHAPTER THREE TROUBLESHOOTING. . . Service precautions —1998 model year engines Safety precautions (Operating requirements Test and repair equipment Wiring hamesses Staring system Battery charging system Electrical accessories. Warning systems Ignition system. Capacitor discharge ignition (CD) troubleshooting. - CD4 ignition system troubleshooting (V4 cross flow models). Contents 1 1 2 2 2 u 4 35 36 2 a6 59 65 6 im 8 6 Lubricants. Gasket sealant Galvanic corrosion, Protection from galvanic corrosion. Propellers. (CDA ignition system troubleshooting (130 ip V4 loop charged models) (0182000 ignition system troubleshooting (60° Vand V6 (loop-charged) models) (CD6 ignition system troubleshooting (200 and 2259)... ‘CBB ignition system troubleshooting {250 and 300 hp V8 models) Key and neutral start switch . Fuel system .. Engine temperature end overheating Engine. ® 93 tos 7 BI 23 BsCHAPTER FOUR LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP . 148 “Lubrication 148 157 Storage. pooennee 184) 157 Complete submersion 155 Aaticorrosion maintenance 156 (CHAPTER FIVE ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS . teeeeeeeees 168 Engine timing and synchronization. cee 168 130 bp (1995) ... te 219 Required equipment 2 168 130 hp (1996) and 200,225, 250 65 jet, 80 jet (1995-1997) and 85-115 hp ‘and 300 hp (1995 and 1996). coe 182 (0° V4 eross flow models) 169 130, 200,225 and 250 hp (1997 and 1998) <0... 185 80 jet (1998), 108 jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp (60° V4 and V6 models) us CHAPTER SIX FUEL SYSTEM ... 7 Fuel pump S en 2s Carburetors 2 198 Fuel module and vapor separator | “Top feed carburetor (V4 cross flow models)... 201 (60° V4 and V6 models). 216 Minlon carburetors Aatisiphon devices... 219 (V4 and V6 loop charged models)... =. 205 Foeltank...... : Electric fuel primer pump (V8 models). 223 Fuel line and primer ball 220 Electric fuel primer solenoid .. eens aig (CHAPTER SEVEN IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. Service precautions—1998 model year engines. Battery Battery charging system Fuse o cout breaker lect staring system Neutral safety switch Flywheel service CHAPTER EIGHT POWER HEAD.........+45 Service considerations. Evinrude/Jobnson model identification, 279 Power head break 2 281 Service precautions 98 model yur egie. 281 Service recommendations... 2 281 Lubricants, seslans and adhesives ©... 2.20.2, 282. Sealing sufioes..2....eeseseeesccssesessecees 283) Fasteners and torque ei Ct 83) Igition systems. . CD ignition (90° V4 cross-flow models). (0152000 ignition sytem (60° V4 and V6 models)... 260 (CD4, CD6 and CDS ignition (00° V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged models) 264 Electrical connector service... 269CHAPTER NINE LOWER GEARCASE AND ser DRIVE UNITS . Gearcase identification . 378 Gearcase removalfinstalltion Gearease operation... seeseyctseressessees 31D ‘Water pump . Gear ratio... DINE sees 380 Geareasediassembiyheassembly. High aliude operation -- TY 380 ‘Gearcase cleaning and inspection é ‘Counterrotation gearcases GGearcese pressure and vacuum test... 44 vin engine applications)....-.2+2e+eeeeeees 38L Pinion gear shimming ..... ni 44s Service precautions... +++ 382 Shift shaft height adjustment. : 48 Corrosion control. 209) Jet drive models. 448 Gearease lubrication - + 384 Jet pump unit adjustments and maintenance 449 Neutral tar adjustment (let handle models)... 385 ‘et pump unit service . 455 Stutlever deen agusimest 385 Drive shaft and bearing housing DI 4s7 ropeller...---.2+++ : : 385 Water intake housing liner... ..2.2 0.00 462 ‘Trim ab adjustment. arate 386, CHAPTER TEN ‘TRIM AND TILT SYSTEMS ««---- eee seeee 465 ‘Manual tit-assisteylinder . Power tim an tt system Power trim and tit systems : clectrical troubleshooting cee 489 Power tim and tit hydraulic woubleshooting. 478 lectric motor testing : sol Power trim and tlt system service 2 508 (CHAPTER ELEVEN OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS. . . Pee ee sees 530 "VRO? ol injection (all models except 88, 90, 112 and 115 special models) su CHAPTER TWELVE WIRING DIAGRAMSQuick Reference Data ENGINE FAMILY IDENTIFICATION Cylinder configuration/ Model (induction type) 5 jet ‘90° V4 (crosstlow) 99.6 (1682), £80 et (1995-1997 [EO-Eu), 90° V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1832) a 20 et (1998 (EC) 60° V4 (loop-charged) 105.4 (1727) Ree 85 BackTtoller 90° V4 (ross-tlow) 98.6 (1832) 8, 90, 112 and 118 Special 90° V4 (cross-flow) 98 (1832) 90 and 115 hp (1995-1096 [E0-ED))* 90° V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632) ‘90 and 115 hp (1996-1998 [EO-EC))* 60° V4 loop-charged) 108.4 (1727) 150 np and 105 et 60° V6 loop-charged) 158.0 (2589) 178hp 158.0 (2589), 130 hp +220 (2000), 200 and 228 hp {0° V6 (loop-charged) 183.0 (3000) . 280 and 300 np {90° Ve loop-charged) 246.0 (4000) “Ninety and 115 hp models were produced in both 60° and 80° versions in 1985 and 1996. COMMON ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS ‘System Specification | Fuel Recommended fuel 87 (or higher) pump posted octane (AKI), ‘containing no alcohol or oxygenates Minimum requirements £87 (or higher) pump posted octane (AKY), containing no ‘more than 10% ethanol or 5% methanol i Recommended fuel additives 244 Fuel Conditioner . ‘OM Carbon Guars on Recommended oll Evinrude/Johnson TCW,2-stroke outboard oll Minimum requirements NUMA approved TOW, 2-stroke outboard ol Fuel tool ratio ‘Non-oil injected models During breakin 2511 Aer Break! ost il injected models During break-in sot After break-in Not applicable Gear lubricant ‘OMC Ultra HPF Gear Lube or equivalent Battery (minimum ratings) Va models 485 marine cranking Amps (MCA) 360 cold cranking Amps (CCA) 90 minutes reserve capacity (or 80 Ampere-hour rating) Ve.anéve models 1620 marine cranking Amps (MCA) '500 cold cranking Amps (CCA) 90 minutes reserve capacity {(0r 60 Ampere-hour rating)RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS, SEALANTS AND ADHESIVES Part No. ‘Lubrieanis ONC Ultra HPF geer lube (eater stock itm) OMG Power trim ‘and steering fluid 174997 OMC EPiwhee! bearing grease (dealer stock item) ‘OMC Moly tubo 1175356 ‘OMC Triple guard greaso (dealer stock tem) ‘OMC Needle bearing ‘assembly grease a7e642 ‘OMC Starter pinion (bendix) lubricant 337016 ‘OME DPL light-duty penetrating lubricant min ‘OMG 6in-1 heavy-duty ponetrating lubricant 77159 ONC Anti-corrosion spray mir fant 259753 ‘ONC Gasket sealing compound ‘508235 ‘MC Black neoprene dip ‘909570 ‘MC Pipe sealant with Tefton 10038 324073 506852 0078s ‘OMG Type M adhesive ‘Scotch grip 1300 achesive OMe Locauie primer (OMG HT400 adhesive (high strength and temperature) (OMG Ultra Lock threadiocking adhesive {high strenath) (OMC Nt Loek tresdtocking adhesive (rneaium strength) ‘OMG Screw Lock treadlocking adhesive {tow strength) Miscellaneous ‘OMC Engine dogreaser ‘OMG Electrical (deloctr) grease Heot sink compound {thermal oint compound) (OMG Gel Seal and gaskot remover (aerosol) (OMe Gel Seal ana ‘gasket remover (quid) RECOMMENDED CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS‘ ‘Model ‘Standard? ‘Alternate 190° Va cross-flow) ‘aLs2c Lee ‘90° V4((oop-charged) au7eve Liv 60° Vaand V6 ‘au7eve au77ica 90: VéandV3 ‘au7eve curries 7. Gap all conventional gap spark plugs to 0.030 in. (0.76 mm). 21 QL6V (eurace gap) may be used for special operating conditions. Consult an ONC dealer. [3 QL77JC4 must be used on oll-injected models.GEARCASE GEAR RATIO AND APPROXIMATE LUBRICANT CAPACITY Outboard model Gear ratio Lubricant capacity V4 models 90° (cross-charged) 2 26 02 (769 mi) ‘90° (loop-cherged) 225 : 38.02.(876 mi) 60° (loop-charged) ‘Long shaft (20 In.) models aa Y 26 07.(768 mi) Extradong shaft (5 In.) models z 33002.(976 mi) ‘ve models Standard ratlo 99 0z.(976 mi) High-alttude ratio 33 02 (976 mi) 8 models: 71 0. (2089 mi) (85-105 Jet models NA TEST WHEEL (PROPELLER) RECOMMENDATIONS ‘Standard rotation Counter-rotation Mode! OME part No. OME part No. 85-115 hp (90-4)! "1995 models 382061 11996-1998 (ED-EC) 2861 90hp ova)? ‘Long shaft (20 In.) 32861 Extredong shaft (25 in) 367308 118 np (60°V4) ‘Long shatt (20 in.) 382861 a Extradong ‘hat (25 In.) ‘387908 = s30hnp 387388 398873 450 hp 387388 398873 475hnp 387988 398673 200 and 225 hp 436080 1436081 or 398574 20 and 300 hp ‘396277 308674 {5-105 jet models NA NA 1. Cross-flow models, Includes the 65 BackTollor, 68-115 Speciale and the 60 and 115 hp models. 2. Loop-charged models. STANDARD FASTENERS Nem ata 1725 28-40 40-45 60.05 736-163 2aa274 380-407 67STANDARD TORQUE VALUES—METRIC FASTENERS ‘Screw oF nut size n-th, Nm Ms 1522 1725 Ma 2438 27-44 Ms 36-60 41-68 M6 84-105 95-120 ‘Me (Taptite) 108-132 122149 Ma 160-204 203-23.0 Mio 35.3380 maz . 475 maa 2 813Chapter One General Information This detailed, comprehensive manual con- tains complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of pho- tos and drawings guide you through every step- by-step procedure. Troubleshooting, tune-up, maintenance and repair are not difficult if you know what tools and equipment to use and what to do. Anyone not afraid to get their hands dirty, of average intelligence and with some mechanical ability, can perform most of the procedures in this book. See Chapter Two for more information on tools and techniques. ‘A shop manual is a reference. You want to be able to find information fast. Clymer books are designed with you in mind. All chapters are thumb tabbed and important items are indexed at the end of the book. All procedures, tables, photos, etc., in this manual assume that the reader may be working on the machine or using this manual for the first time. Keep this book handy in your tool box. It will help you to better understand how your machine runs, lower repair and maintenance costs and generally increase your enjoyment of your ma- rine equipment. MANUAL ORGANIZATION ‘This chapter provides general information useful to marine owners and mechanics. Chapter Two discusses the tools and tech- niques for preventive maintenance, trou- bleshooting and repair. Chapter Three describes typical equipment problems and provides logical troubleshooting procedures. Following chapters describe specific systems, providing disassembly, repair, assembly and ad- justment procedures in simple step-by-step form. Specifications concerning a specific sys- tem are included at the end of the appropriate chapter. |OTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS ‘The terms NOTE, CAUTION and WARN- ING have specific meanings in this manual. A NOTE provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregard ing a NOTE could cause inconvenience, but would not cause damage or personal injury.ACAUTION emphasizes areas where equip- ‘ment damage could result. Disregarding a CAU- TION could cause permanent mechanical damage; however, personal injury is unlikely. ‘A WARNING emphasizes areas where per- sonal injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are 10 be taken seriously. In some cases, serious injury or death has resulted from disregarding similar wamings. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Torque specifications throughout this manual are given in foot-pounds (ft-Ib.) and either New- ton meters (Nm) or meter-kilograms (mkg). Newton meters are being adopted in place of meter-kilograms in accordance with the Interna- tional Modernized Metric System. Existing torque wrenches calibrated in meter-kilograms can be used by performing a simple conversion: ‘move the decimal point one place to the right. For example, 4.7 mkg =47 Nam. This conversion is accurate enough for mechanics’ use even though the exact mathematical conversion is 3.5 mkg = 34.3 Nem. ENGINE OPERATION All marine engines, whether 2- or 4-stroke, gasoline or diesel, operate on the Otto cycle of intake, compression, power and exhaust phases. 4-stroke Cycle A 4-stroke engine requires two crankshaft revolutions (4 strokes of the piston) to complete the Onto cycle. Figure 1 shows gasoline 4-stroke engine operation. Figure 2 shows diesel 4-stroke engine operation, CHAPTER ONE 2-stroke Cycle A 2-stroke engine requires only 1 crankshaft revolution (2 strokes of the piston) to complete the Otto cycle. Figure 3 shows gasoline 2-stroke engine operation. Although diesel 2-strokes ex- ist, they are not commonly used in light marine applications. FASTENERS ‘The material and design of the various fasten- ers used on marine equipment are not arrived at by chance or accident. Fastener design deter- mines the type of tool required to work with the fastener. Fastener material is carefully selected to decrease the possibility of physical failure or corrosion. See Galvanic Corrosion in this chap- ter for more information on marine materials. Threads Nuts, bolts and screws are manufactured in a wide range of thread patterns. To join a nut and bolt, the diameter of the bolt and the diameter of the hole in the nut must be the same. It is just as important that the threads on both be properly matched. The best way to determine if the threads on two fasteners are matched is to tum the nut on the bolt (or the bolt into the threaded hole in a piece of equipment) with fingers only. Be sure both pieces are clean. If much force is required, check the thread condition on each fastener. If the thread condition is good but the fasteners jam, the threads are not compatible. Four important specifications describe every thread: a. Diameter. b. Threads per inch, c. Thread pattern, 4. Thread direction. Figure 4 shows the first two specifications. ‘Thread pattem is more subile, Italian and BritishGENERAL INFORMATION GQ) a {As the piston travels downward, the exhaust ‘valve is closed and the Intake valve opens, allowing the new air-tuo! ‘mixture trom the ‘carburetor to be drawn into the cylinder. When the piston reaches the bottom ofits travel (BDC), the Intake valve closes ‘and remains closed for the next 1 1/2 revolutions of the erankshat. 4-STROKE GASOLINE OPERATING PRINCIPLES When the piston almost reaches BDC, the exhaust Yalve opens and remains ‘open unt the piston is neat TDC. The upward ‘avel ofthe piston forces the exhaust gases out of, eylinder. After piston has reached TOC, {he exhaust valve clot land the eycle starts al over again.CHAPTER ONE As the pieton travels ‘downward, the exhaust valve ie closed and the Intake valve opens, allowing ir to be drawn Into the eyinder. When tho platon roaches the ‘bottom of its travel (BDC), ‘tho intake valve closes ‘and remains closed for the noxt 1 7/2 revolutions of the crankshaft. 4-STROKE DIESEL OPERATING PRINCIPLES: piston the exhaust valve closes fand the cycle starts all ‘over again.GENERAL INFORMATION 4a te paton vee While the crankshatt fownward, uncovers. continues to rotate, the the exhaust port (A) piston moves upward, genes eve te covering the transter (6) eee i see, charge, which has been = ‘the new air-fuel mixture Senior, aac 5; crankcase, enters the ‘ylinger through the transter port (@). Since this charge enters under pressure, it also helps to ‘push out the exhaust ‘gases. low-pressure area in the crankease atthe same. time. As the piston continues to travel, It Uncovers the intake port (©), Atesh ar-tuel ‘charge from the ceerburetor(D) Is drawn Ito the erankcase ‘through the intake port 2-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLESstandards exist, but the most commonly used by marine equipment manufacturers are American standard and metric standard. The threads are cut differently as shown in Figure 5. Most threads are cut so that the fastener must be tured clockwise to tighten it. These are called right-hand threads. Some fasteners have left- hand threads; they must be turned counterclock- wise to be tightened. Left-hand threads are used in locations where normal rotation of the equip- ment would tend to loosen a right-hand threaded fastener, Machine Screws ‘There are many different types of machine screws. Figure 6 shows a number of screw heads requiring different types of turning tools (see Chapter Two for detailed information), Heads CHAPTER ONE are also designed to protrude above the metal (round) or to be slightly recessed in the metal (flat) (Figure 7), Bolts Commonly called bolts, the technical name for these fasteners is cap screw. They are nor- mally described by diameter, threads per inch and length. For example, 1/4-20 x 1 indicates a bolt 1/4 in. in diameter with 20 threads per inch, 1 in. long. The measurement across two flats on the head of the bolt indicates the proper wrench size to be used. Nuts Nuts are manufactured in a variety of types and sizes. Most are hexagonal (6-sided) and fitGENERAL INFORMATION on bolts, screws and studs with the same diame- ter and threads per inch. Figure 8 shows several types of nuts. The common nut is usually used with a lockwasher. Self-locking nuts have a nylon insert that pre- vents the nut from loosening; no lockwasher is required, Wing nuts are designed for fast re- moval by hand. Wing nuts are used for conven ience in non-critical locations. To indicate the size of a nut, manufacturers specify the diameter of the opening and the threads per inch. This is similar to bolt specifi- cation, but without the length dimension. The measurement across two flats on the nut indi- cates the proper wrench size to be used. Washers There are two basic types of washers: flat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are sim- ple discs with a hole to fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are designed to prevent a fastener from working loose due to vibration, expansion and contraction. Figure 9 shows several types of lockwashers. Note that flat washers are often used between a lockwasher and a fastener to provide a smooth bearing surface. This allows the fastener to be tumed easily with a tool Cotter Pins Cotter pins (Figure 10) are used to secure special kinds of fasteners, The threaded stud ‘fe‘must have a hole in it; the nut or nut lock piece has projections that the cotter pin fits between. This type of nut is called a “Castellated nut.” Cotter pins should not be reused after removal. ‘Snap Rings ‘Snap rings can be of an internal or external design. They are used to retain items on shafts (external type) or within tubes (internal type). Snap rings can be reused if they are not distorted uring removal. In some applications, snap rings of varying thickness can be selected to control the end play of parts assemblies. LUBRICANTS Periodic lubrication ensures long service life for any type of equipment. It is especially impor- tant to marine equipment because it is exposed to salt or brackish water and other harsh environ- ments, The type of lubricant used is just as im- portant as the lubrication service itself; although, in an emergency, the wrong type of lubricant is. better than none at all. The following paragraphs describe the types of lubricants most often used ‘on marine equipment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer’s recommendations for lubricant types. Generally, all liquid lubricants are called “oil.” ‘They may be mineral-based (including petro- Jeum bases), natural-based (vegetable and ani- mal bases), synthetic-based or emulsions (mixtures). “Grease” is an oil which is thickened with a metallic “soap.” The resulting material is then usually enhanced with anticorrosion, anti- oxidant and extreme pressure (EP) additives. Grease is often classified by the type of thickener added; lithium and calcium soap are commonly used. 4-stroke Engine Oil Oil for 4-stroke engines is graded by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and the So- CHAPTER ONE ciety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several categories. Oil containers display these ratings on the top or label (Figure 11). API oil grade is indicated by letters, oils for ‘gasoline engines are identified by an'“S” and oils for diesel engines are identified by a “C.” Most modern gasoline engines require SF or SG graded oil. Automotive and marine diese! en- gines use CC or CD graded oi Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thick- ness, or resistance to flow. The SAE uses num- bers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low numbers and thick oils have high numbers. A “W” after the number indicates thatthe viscosity testing was done at low temperature to simulate cold weather operation, Engine oils fall into the 5W-20W and 20-50 range. Multi-grade oils (for example, 10W-40) are less viscous (thinner) at low temperatures and ‘more viscous (thicker) at high temperatures, This allows the oil to perform efficiently across a wide range of engine operating temperatures.GENERAL INFORMATION 2-stroke Engine Oil Lubrication for a 2-stroke engine is provided by oill mixed with the incoming fuel-air mixture. Some of the oil mist settles out in the crankcase, lubricating the crankshaft and lower end of the connecting rods. The rest of the oil enters the combustion chamber to lubricate the piston, rings and cylinder wall. This oil is then burned along with the fuel-air mixture during the com- bustion proce: Engine oil must have several special qualities to work well in a 2-stroke engine. It must mix easily and stay in suspension in gasoline. When burned, it can’t leave behind excessive deposits. It must also be able to withstand the high tem- peratures associated with 2-stroke engines. ‘The National Marine Manufacturer’s Associa- tion (NMMA) has set standards for oil used in 2-stroke, water-cooled engines. This is the NMMA TC-W (two-cycle, water-cooled) grade (Figure 12). The oil's performance in the follow- ing areas is evaluated: a, Lubrication (prevention of wear and scuff- ing). b. Spark plug fouling, c. Preignition. 4. Piston ring sticking. €. Piston varnish Jeneral engine condition (including depos- its). Exhaust port blockage. Rust prevention. i, Mixing ability with gasoline. Inaddition to oil grade, manufacturers specify the ratio of gasoline to oil required during break- in and normal engine operation. Gear Oil Gear lubricants are assigned SAE viscosity numbers under the same system as 4-stroke en- gine oil, Gear lubricant falls into the SAE 72-25010 range (Figure 13). Some gear lubricants are multi-grade; for example, SAE 85W-90. Three types of marine gear lubricant are gen- erally available: SAE 90 hypoid gear lubricant is designed for older manual-shift units; Type C gear lubricant contains additives designed for electric shift mechanisms; High viscosity gear lubricant is a heavier oil designed to stand the shock loading of high-performance engines or units subjected to severe duty use. Always use a gear lubricant of the type specified by the unit’s manufacturer, Grease Greases are graded by the National Lubricat- ing Grease Institute (NLGD. Greases are graded by number according to the consistency of the grease; these ratings range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the most solid, A typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2 (Figure 14). For specific applications, equipment manufac- turers may require grease with an additive such as molybdenum disulfide (MOS?), GASKET SEALANT Gasket sealant is used instead of pre-formed gaskets on some applications, or as a gasket dressing on others. Two types of gasket sealant are commonly used: room temperature vulcan- izing (RTV) and anaerobic. Because these two materials have different sealing properties, they cannot be used interchangeably. RTY Sealant This is a silicone gel supplied in tubes (Figure 18), Moisture in the air causes RTV to cure. Always place the cap on the tube as soon as possible when using RTV. RTV has a shelf life of one year and will not cure properly when the shelf life has expired. Check the expiration date CHAPTER ONEGENERAL INFORMATION ‘on RTV tubes before using and keep partially used tubes tightly sealed. RTV sealant can gen- cerally fill gaps up to 1/4 in, (6.3 mm) and works well on slightly flexible surfaces. Applying RTV Sealant Clean alll gasket residue from mating surfaces. Surfaces should be clean and free of oil and dirt. Remove all RTV gasket material from blind attaching holes because it can create a “hydrau- lic” effect and affect bolt torque. Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) thick. Circle all mounting holes unless otherwise specified. Torque mating parts within 10 minutes afier application. u Anaerobic Sealant This is a gel supplied in tubes (Figure 16). It cures only in the absence of air, as when squeezed tightly between two machined mat- ing surfaces. For this reason, it will not spoil if the cap is left off the tube. It should not be used if one mating surface is flexible. Anaero- bic sealant is able to fill gaps up to 0,030 in, (0.8 mm) and generally works best on rigid, machined flanges or surfaces. Applying Anaerobic Sealant Clean all gasket residue from mating sur- faces. Surfaces must be clean and free of oil and dirt. Remove all gasket material from blind ching holes, as it can cause a “hy- draulic” effect and affect bolt torque. Apply anaerobic sealant in a 1 mm or less (0.04 in.) bead to one sealing surface. Circle all mounting holes. Torque mating parts within 15 minutes after application. GALVANIC CORROSION A chemical reaction occurs whenever two different types of metal are joined by an elec- trical conductor and immersed in an electro- lyte. Electrons transfer from one metal to the other through the electrolyte and return through the conductor. | ‘The hardware on a boat is made of many different types of metal. The boat hull acts as a conductor between the metals. Even if the hull is wooden or fiberglass, the slightest film of water (electrolyte) within the hull provides conductivity. This combination creates a good environment for electron flow (Figure 17), Unfortunately, this clectron flow results in gal- vanie corrosion of the metal involved, causing ‘one of the metals to be corroded or eaten away12 CHAPTER ONE by the process. The amount of electron flow (and, therefore, the amount of corrosion) de- pends on several factors: a, The types of metal involved. b. The efficiency of the conductor. ¢. The strength of the electrolyte. Metals ‘The chemical composition of the metals used in marine equipment has a significant effect on the amount and speed of galvanic corrosion. Certain metals are more resistant to corrosion than others, These electrically negative metals are commonly called “noble;” they act as the cathode in any reaction. Metals that are more subject to corrosion are electrically positive; they act as the anode in a reaction. The more noble metals include titanium, 18-8 stainless steel and nickel. Less noble metals include zinc, aluminum and magnesium, Galvanic corrosion becomes more severe as the difference in electri cal potential between the two metals increases. In some cases, galvanic corrosion can occur within a single piece of metal, Common brass is a mixture of zine and copper, and, when im- mersed in an electrolyte, the zinc portion of the ‘mixture will corrode away as reaction occurs between the zinc and the copper particles. Conductors The hull of the boat often acts as the conductor between different types of metal. Marine equip- ‘ment, such as an outboard motor or stem drive unit, can also act as the conductor. Large masses. of metal, firmly connected together, are more efficient conductors than water. Rubber mount- ings and vinyl-based paint can act as insulators between pieces of metal.GENERAL INFORMATION 13 Electrolyte ‘The water in which a boat operates acts as the electrolyte for the galvanic corrosion process. The better a conductor the electrolyte is, the more severe and rapid the corrosion. Cold, clean freshwater is the poorest electro- lyte, As water temperature increases, its conduc tivity increases, Pollutants will increase conductivity; brackish or saltwater is also an efficient electrolyte. This is one of the reasons that most manufacturers recommend a fresh water flush for marine equipment after operation in saltwater, polluted or brackish water. PROTECTION FROM GALVANIC CORROSION Because of the environment in which marine equipment must operate, itis practically impos- sible to totally prevent galvanic corrosion. There are several ways by which the process can be slowed. After taking these precautions, the next step is to “fool” the process into occurring only where you want it to occur. This is the role of sacrificial anodes and impressed current sys~ tems. Slowing Corrosion Some simple precautions can help reduce the amount of corrosion taking place outside the hull, These are not a substitute for the corrosion protection methods discussed under Sacrificial Anodes and Impressed Current Systems in this chapter, but they can help these protection meth- ods do their job. Use fasteners of a metal more noble than the part they are fastening. If corrosion occurs, the larger equipment will suffer but the fastener will be protected. Because fasteners are usually very small in comparison to the equipment being fastened, the equipment can survive the loss of material. If the fastener were to corrode instead of the equipment, major problems could arise. Keep all painted surfaces in good condition, If paint is scraped off and bare metal exposed, corrosion will rapidly increase. Use a vinyl- or plastic-based paint, which acts as an electrical insulator. Be careful when using metal-based antifoul- ing paints. These should not be applied to metal parts of the boat, outboard motor or stern drive unit or they will actually react with the equip- ‘ment, causing corrosion between the equipment and the layer of paint. Organic-based paints are available for use on metal surfaces. Where a corrosion protection device is used, remember that it must be immersed in the elec- trolyte along with the rest of the boat to have any effect. If you raise the power unit out of the water when the boat is docked, any anodes on the power unit will be removed from the corrosion cycle and will not protect the rest of the equi ‘ment that is stil immersed. Also, such corrosion protection devices must not be painted because this would insulate them from the corrosion process. Any change in the boat's equipment, such as the installation of a new stainless steel propeller, will change the electrical potential and could cause increased corrosion. Keep in mind that ‘when you add new equipment or change materi- als, you should review your corrosion protection system {o be sure it is up to the job. Sacrificial Anodes ‘Anodes are usually made of zinc, a far from noble metal. Sacrificial anodes are specially de- signed to do nothing but corrode, Properly fas- tening such pieces to the boat will cause them to act as the anode in any galvanic reaction that ‘occurs; any other metal present will act as the cathode and will not be damaged.14 Anodes must be used properly to be effective. Simply fastening pieces of zinc to your boat in random locations won't do the job. You must determine how much anode surface area is required to adequately protect the equip- ment’s surface area. A good starting point is provided by Military Specification MIL-A- 818001, which states that one square inch of new anode will protect either: a, 800 square inches of freshly painted steel b. 250 square inches of bare steel or bare aluminum alloy. ©. 100square inches of copper or copperalloy. This rule is fora boat at rest. When underway, ‘more anode area is required to protect the same equipment surface area, The anode must be fastened so that it has good electrical contact with the metal to be protected, If possible, the anode can be attached directly to the other metal. If that is not possible, the entire network of metal parts in the boat should be electrically bonded together so that all pieces are protected. Good quality anodes have inserts of some other metal around the fastener holes. Otherwise, the anode could erode away around the fastener. The anode can then become loose or even fall off, removing all protection Another Military Specification (MIL-A- 18001) defines the type of alloy preferred that will corrode at a uniform rate without forming a crust that could reduce its efficiency after a time. Impressed Current Systems An impressed current system can be installed on any boat that has a battery. The system con- sists of an anode, a control box and a sensor. The anode in this system is coated with a very noble ‘metal, such as platinum, so that it is almost corrosion-free and will last indefinitely. The sen- sor, under the boat's waterline, monitors the po- tential for corrosion. When it senses that CHAPTER ON! corrosion could be occurring, it transmits this information to the control box. ‘The control box connects the boat’s battery to the anode. When the sensor signals the need, the control box applies positive battery voltage to the anode. Current from the battery flows from the anode to all other metal parts of the boat, no matter how noble or non-noble these parts may be. This battery current takes the place of any galvanic current flow, Only a very small amount of battery current is needed to counteract galvanic corrosion. Manu- facturers estimate that it would take two or three ‘months of constant use to drain a typical marine battery, assuming the battery is never recharged. An impressed current system is more expen- sive to install than simple anodes but, consider- ing its low maintenance requirements and the excellent protection it provides, the long-term cost may actually be lower. PROPELLERS ‘The propeller is the final link between the boat’s drive system and the water. A perfectly (x)GENERAL INFORMATION 15 maintained engine and hull are useless if the propeller is the wrong type or has been allowed to deteriorate, Although propeller selection for a specific situation is beyond the scope of this book, the following information on propeller construction and design will allow youto discuss the subject intelligently with your marine dealer. How a Propeller Works ‘As the curved blades of a propeller rotate through the water, a high-pressure area is created on one side of the blade and a low-pressure area exists on the other side of the blade (Figure 18). ‘The propeller moves toward the low-pressure area, carrying the boat with it. Propeller Parts Although a propeller may be a one-piece unit, it is made up of several different parts (Figure 19). Variations in the design of these parts make different propellers suitable for different jobs. ‘The blade tip is the point on the blade farthest from the center of the propeller hub. The blade tip separates the leading edge from the trailing edge. ‘The leading edge is the edge of the blade nearest to the boat. During normal rotation, this is the area of the blade that first cuts through the water. ‘The trailing edge is the edge of the blade farthest from the boat. ‘The blade face is the surface of the blade that faces away from the boat. During normal rota~ tion, high pressure exists on this side of the blade. ‘The blade back is the surface of the blade that faces toward the boat. During normal rotation, low pressure exists on this side of the blade, The cup is a small curve or lip on the trailing edge of the blade. ‘The hub is the central portion of the propeller. It connects the blades to the propeller shaft (part of the boat’s drive system). On some drive sys- tems, engine exhaust is routed through the hub; in this case, the hub is made up of an outer and an inner portion, connected by ribs. ‘The diffuser ring is used on through-hub ex- haust models to prevent exhaust gases from en- tering the blade area. ‘Traling edge16 CHAPTER ONE Propeller Design Changes in length, angle, thickness and mate- rial of propeller parts make different propellers suitable for different situations. Diameter Propeller diameter is the distance from the center of the hub to the blade tip, multiplied by 2. That is, it is the diameter of the circle formed by the blade tips during propeller rotation (Fig- ure 20). Pitch and rake Propeller pitch and rake describe the place- ment of the blade in relation to the hub (Figure 21). 20.GENERAL INFORMATION Pitch is expressed by the theoretical distance that the propeller would travel in one revolution. In A, Figure 22, the propeller would travel 10 inches in one revolution. In B, Figure 22, the propeller would travel 20 inches in one revolu- tion. This distance is only theoretical; during ictual operation, the propeller achieves about 80% of its rated travel. Propeller blades can be constructed with con- stant pitch (Figure 23) or progressive pitch (Fig- 17 ure 24). Progressive pitch starts low at the lead- ing edge and increases toward to trailing edge. The propeller pitch specification is the average of the pitch across the entire blade Blade rake is specified in degrees and is meas- ured along a line from the center of the hub to the blade tip. A blade that is perpendicular to the hub (A, Figure 25) has 0° of rake. A blade that is angled from perpendicular (B, Figure 25) has a rake expressed by its difference from perpen-18 dicular: Most propellers have rakes ranging from 0-209, Blade thickness Blade thickness is not uniform at all points along the blade. For efficiency, blades should be as thin as possible at all points while retaining enough strength to move the boat. Blades tend to be thicker where they meet the hub and thinner at the blade tip (Figure 26). This is to support the heavier loads at the hub section of the blade. This thickness is dependent on the strength of the material used, ‘When cut along a line from the leading edge to the trailing edge in the central portion of the blade (Figure 27), the propeller blade resembles an airplane wing. The blade face, where high pressure exists during normal rotation, is almost flat. The blade back, where low pressure exists during normal rotation, is curved, with the thin- nest portions at the edges and the thickest portion at the center, Propellers that run only partially submerged, as in racing applications, may have a wedge- shaped cross-section (Figure 28). The leading edge is very thin; the blade thickness increases toward the trailing edge, where it is the thickest. If a propeller such as this is run totally sub- merged, it is very inefficient. Number of blades ‘The number of blades used on a propeller is a compromise between efficiency and vibration. A ‘one-blade propeller would be the most efficient, but it would also create high levels of vibration. As blades are added, efficiency decreases, but so do vibration levels. Most propellers have three blades, representing the most practical trade-off between efficiency and vibration. Material Propeller materials are chosen for strength, corrosion resistance and economy. Stainless steel, aluminum and bronze are the most com- monly used materials. Bronze is quite strong but CHAPTER ONEGENERAL INFORMATION 19 ratherexpensive. Stainless steel is more common than bronze because of its combination of strength and lower cost. Aluminum alloys are the least expensive but usually lack the strength of steel. Plastic propellers may be used in some low horsepower applications Direction of rotation Propellers are made for both right-hand and lefi-hand rotation although right-hand is the most commonly used. When seen from behind the boat in forward motion, a right-hand propel- ler turns clockwise and a left-hand propeller tums counterclockwise. Off the boat, you can tell the difference by observing the angle of the blades (Figure 29). A right-hand propeller’s blades slant from the upper leftto the lowerright; alleft-hand propeller’s blades are the opposite. Cav yn and Ventilation Cavitation and ventilation are not inter- changeable terms; they refer totwo distinct prob- Jems encountered during propeller operation. To understand cavitation, you must first: un- derstand the relationship between pressure and the boiling point of water. Atsea level, water will boil at 212° F. As pressure increases, such as within an engine’s closed cooling system, the boiling point of water increases—it will boil at some temperature higher than 212° F. The oppo- site is also true. As pressure decreases, water Will boil at a temperature lower than 212° F. If pres- sure drops low enough, water will boil at typical ambient temperatures of 50-60° F We haye said that, during normal propeller operation, low-pressure exists on the blade back Normally, the pressure does not drop low enough for boiling to occur. However, poor blade design20 or selection, or blade damage can cause an un- usual pressure drop on a small area of the blade jure 30). Boiling can occur in this small area. As the water boils, air bubbles form. As the boiling water passes to a higher pressure area of the blade, the boiling stops and the bubbles col- lapse. The collapsing bubbles release enough energy to erode the surface of the blade. This entire process of pressure drop, boiling and bubble collapse is called “cavitation.” The damage caused by the collapsing bubbles is called a “cavi- tation bum.” Itis important to remember that cav tation is caused by a decrease in pressure, not an increase in temperature. ‘Ventilation is not as complex a process as cavi- tation. Ventilation refers to air entering the blade area, either from above the surface of the water or from a through-hub exhaust system. As the blades ‘meet the air, the propeller momentarily over-revs, losing most of its thrust. An added complication is thats the propellerover-revs, pressure on the blade back decreases and massive cavitation can occur, Most pieces of marine equipment have a plate above the propeller area designed to keep surface CHAPTER ONE air from entering the blade area (Figure 31). This plate is correctly called an “antiventitation plate,” although you will often see it called an “anticavitation plate.” Through hub exhaust sys- tems also have specially designed hubs to keep exhaust gases from entering the blade area,Chapter Two Tools and Techniques This chapter describes the common tools re- quired for marine equipment repairs and trou- bleshooting. Techniques that will make your work easier and more effective are also de- scribed. Some of the procedures in this book require special skills or expertise; in some cases, you are better off entrusting the job to a dealer or qualified specialist. SAFETY FIRST Professional mechanics can work for years and never suffer a serious injury. If you follow a few rules of common sense and safety, you too can enjoy many safe hours servicing your marine equipment. If you ignore these rules, you can hurt yourself or damage the equipment. 1, Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. 2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammable liquids, such as cleaning solvent. If you are working in your home garage, remember that your home gas appliances have pilot lights. 3. Never smoke or use a torch in an area where batteries are being charged. Highly explosive hydrogen gas is formed during the charging process, 4. Use the proper size wrenches to avoid damage to fasteners and injury to yourself. 5. When loosening a tight or stuck fastener, think of what would happen if the wrench should slip. Protect yourself accordingly. 6. Keep your work area clean, uncluttered and well lighted. 7. Wear safety goggles during all operations involving drilling, grinding or the use of a cold chisel. 8. Never use worn tools. 9. Keep a Coast Guard approved fire extin- guisher handy. Be sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires. BASIC HAND TOOLS ‘A number of tools are required to maintain marine equipment. You may already have some of these tools for home or car repairs. There are also tools made especially for marine equipment repairs; these you will have to purchase. In any case, a wide variety of quality tools will make repairs easier and more effective, Keep your tools clean and in a tool box. Keep them organized with the sockets and related22 drives together, the open end and box wrenches together, etc, After using a tool, wipe off dirt and grease with a clean cloth and place the tool in its correct place. The following tools are required to perform virtually any repair job, Each tool is described and the recommended size given for starting a tool collection. Additional tools and some dupli- cations may be added as you become more fa- miliar with the equipment, You may need all standard U.S. size tools, all metric size tools or a mixture of both. Screwdrivers ‘The screwdriver is a very basic tool, but if used improperly, it will do more damage than g00d. The slot on a screw has a definite dimen- sion and shape. screwdriver must be selected to conform with that shape. Use a small screw- driver for small screws and a large one for large screws or the screw head will be damaged. ‘Two types of screwdriver are commonly re- quired: a common (flat-blade) screwdriver (Fig- ure 1) and Phillips screwdrivers (Figure 2). ‘Screwdrivers are available in sets, which often include an assortment of common and Phillips blades. If you buy them individually, buy at least the following: a, Common screwdriver—5/16 x 6 in. blade. b. Common screwdriver—3/8 x 12 in, blade Cc. Phillips screwdriver—size 2 tip, 6 in. blade. Use screwdrivers only for driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling. Do not try to remove a Phillips or Allen head serew with acommon screwdriver; you can dam- ‘age the head so that the proper tool will be unable to remove it, Keep screwdrivers in the proper condition and they will last longer and perform better. Always keep the tip of a common screwdriver in good condition. Figure 3 shows how to grind the tip 10 the proper shape if it becomes damaged. Note the parallel sides of the tip. CHAPTER TWO Pliers Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are useful for cutting, bending and crimp- ing. They should never be used to cut hardened objects or to turn bolts or nuts, Figure 4 shows several types of pliers, Each type of pliers has a specialized function. General purpose pliers are used mainly for hold- ing things and for bending. Locking pliers are used as pliers or to hold objects very tightly, like avise, Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend small objects. Adjustable or slip-joint pliers canTOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 23 ‘CORRECT WAY TO GRIND BLADE ® be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects; the jaws remain parallel to grip around objects such as pipe or tubing. There are many more types of pliers. The ones described here are the most commonly used. Box and Open-end Wrenches Box and open-end wrenches are available in sets or separately in a variety of sizes. See Figure 5 and Figure 6. The number stamped near the end refers to the distance between two parallel flats on the hex head bolt or nut Box wrenches are usually superior to open- end wrenches, An open-end wrench grips the nut on only two flats. Unless it fits well, it may slip and round off the points on the nut. The box wrench grips all 6 flats. Both 6-point and 12- point openings on box wrenches are available. The 6-point gives superior holding power; the 12-point allows a shorter swing. connect ‘TAPER24 Combination wrenches, which are open on ‘one side and boxed on the other, are also avail- able. Both ends are the same size, Adjustable Wrenches An adjustable wrench can be adjusted to fit nearly any nut or bolt head. See Figure 7. How- ever, it can loosen and slip, causing damage to the nut and maybe to your knuckles. Use an adjustable wrench only when other wrenches are not available. Adjustable wrenches come in sizes ranging from 4-18 in. overall. A 6 or 8 in, wrench is recommended as an all-purpose wrench. Socket Wrenches ‘This type is undoubtedly the fastest, safest and ‘most convenient to use. See Figure 8. Sockets, which attach to a suitable handle, are available with 6-point or 12-point openings and use 1/4, 3/8 and 3/4 inch drives. The drive size indicates CHAPTER TWOTOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 25 the size of the square hole that mates with the ratchet of flex handle. ‘Torque Wrench A torque wrench (Figure 9) is used with a socket to measure how tight a nut or bolt is installed, They come in a wide price range and with either 3/8 or 1/2 in, square drive. The drive size indicates the size of the square drive that ‘mates with the socket. Purchase one that meas- ures up to 150 ft.-Ib. (203 Nem). + Impact Driver This tool (Figure 10) makes removal of tight fasteners easy and eliminates damage to bolts and screw slots. Impact drivers and interchange- able bits are available at most large hardware and auto parts stores. Cirelip Pliers irclip pliers (sometimes referred to as snap- ring pliers) are necessary to remove circlips. See Figure 11. Circlip pliers usually come with sev- eral different size tips; many designs can be switched from internal type to external type. Hammers ‘The correct hammer is necessary for repairs. Use only a hammer with a face (or head) of rubber or plastic or the soft-faced type that is filled with buckshot (Figure 12). These are sometimes necessary in engine tear-downs. Neyer use a metal-faced hammer as severe dam- age will result in most cases. You can always produce the same amount of force with a soft- faced hammer,26 Feeler Gauge This tool has either flat or wire measuring gauges (Figure 13), Wire gauges are used to ‘measure spark plug gap; flat gauges are used for all other measurements. A non-magnetic (brass) ‘gauge may be specified when working around magnetized parts, Other Special Tools Some procedures require special tools; these are identified in the appropriate chapter. Unless otherwise specified, the part number used in this book to identify a special tool is the marine equipment manufacturer's part number. Special tools can usually be purchased through your marine equipment dealer. Some can be made locally by a machinist, often at a much lower price. You may find certain special tools at tool rental dealers. Don’t use makeshift tools if you can’t locate the correct special tool; ‘you will probably cause more damage than good. TEST EQUIPMENT ‘Multimeter ‘This instrument (Figure 14) is invaluable for electrical system troubleshooting and service. It combines a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and an am- meter into one unit, $0 it is often called a VOM. ‘Two types of multimeter are available, analog and digital. Analog meters have a moving needle with marked bands indicating the volt, ohm and ‘amperage scales. The digital meter (DVOM) is ideally suited for troubleshooting because it is easy to read, more accurate than analog, contains internal overload protection, is. auto-ranging (analog meters must be recalibrated each time the scale is changed) and has automatic polarity compensation, CHAPTER TWO.‘POOLS AND TECHNIQUI 27 Strobe iming Light This instrument is necessary for dynamic tun- ing (setting ignition timing while the engine is running). By flashing light atthe precise instant the spark plug fires, the position of the timing mark can be seen. The flashing light makes a moving mark appear to stand still opposite a stationary mark Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types to powerful xenon strobe lights. See Figure 15. A light with an inductive pickup is best because it eliminates any possible damage 1 ignition wiring ‘Tachometer/Dwell Meter portable tachometer is necessary for tuning, See Figure 16. Ignition timing and carburetor adjustments must be performed at the specified idle speed. The best instrument for this purpose is one with a low range of 0-1000 or 0-2000 rpm and a high range of 0-6000 rpm, Extended range (0-6000 or 0-8000 rpm) instruments lack accu- racy at lower speeds. The instrument should be capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm on the low range. A dwell meter is often combined with a ta- chometer. Dwell meters are used with breaker point ignition systems to measure the amount of ime the points remain closed during engine operation. ‘Compression Gauge This tool (Figure 17) measures the amount of pressure present in the engine's combustion chamber during the compression stroke, This indicates general engine condition. Compression readings can be interpreted along with vacuum gauge readings to pinpoint specific engine me- chanical problems. The easiest type to use has serew-in adapters that fit into the spark plug holes. Press-in rubber- tipped types are also available.28 Vacuum Gauge The vacuum gauge (Figure 18) measures the intake manifold vacuum created by the engine’s intake stroke, Manifold and valve problems (on 4-stroke engines) can be identified by interpret- ing the readings. When combined with compres- sion gauge readings, other engine problems can be diagnosed. Some vacuum gauges can also be used as fuel pressure gauges to trace fuel system problems, Hydrometer Battery electrolyte specific gravity is meas- ured witha hydrometer (Figure 19), The specific gravity of the electrolyte indicates the battery’: state of charge. The best type has autom: temperature compensation; otherwise, you must calculate the compensation yourself, Precision Measuring Tools Various tools are needed to make precision measurements. A dial indicator (Figure 20), for example, is used to determine run-out of rotating parts and end play of parts assemblies. A dial indicator can also be used to precisely measure piston position in relation to top dead center, some engines require this measurement for igni- tion timing adjustment, Vernier calipers (Figure 21) and micrometers (Figure 22) are other precision measuring tools used to determine the size of parts (such as piston diameter). Precision measuring equipment must be stored, handled and used carefully or it will not remain accurate, SERVICE HINTS Most of the service procedures covered in this manual are straightforward and can be per- formed by anyone reasonably handy with tools. CHAPTER TWO.TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 29 It is suggested, however, that you consider your own skills and toolbox carefully before attempt- ing any operation involving major disassembly of the engine or gearcase, Some operations, for example, require the use of a press. It would be wiser to have these per- formed by a shop equipped for such work, rather than trying to do the job yourself with makeshift equipment. Other procedures require precise measurements. Unless you have the skills and equipment required, it would be better to have a Preparation for Disassembly Repairs go much faster and easier if the equip- ment is clean before you begin work. There are special cleaners, such as Gunk or Bel-Ray De- geaser, for washing the engine and related parts, Just spray or brush on the cleaning solution, let it stand, then rinse away with a garden hose, Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning sol- Vent as you remove them, WARNING Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvent. Keep a Coast Guard approved fire extinguisher rated for gasoline fires, handy in any ‘Much of the labor charged forrepairs made by dealers is for the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective unit. It is fre- quently possible to perform the preliminary op- erations yourself and then take the defective unit in to the dealer for repair, If you decide to tackle the job yourself, read the entire section in this manual that pertains to it, making sure you have identified the proper one. Study the illustrations and text until you have a good idea of what is involved in complet- ing the job satisfactorily. If special tools or re- placement parts are required, make arrangements to get them before you start. It is frustrating and time-consuming to get partly into a job and then be unable to complete it. Disassembly Precautions During disassembly of parts, keep a few gen- eral precautions in mind, Force is rarely needed to get things apart. If parts are a tight fit, such as0 a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool de- signed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver to pry apart parts with machined surfaces (such as cylinder heads and crankeases). You will mar the surfaces and end up with leaks, Make diagrams (or take an instant picture) wherever similar-appearing parts are found. For example, head and crankcase bolts are often not the same length. You may think you can remem- ber where everything came from, but mistakes are costly. There is also the possibility you may be sidetracked and not return to work for days or even weeks, In the interval, carefully laid out parts may have been disturbed. Cover all openings after removing parts to keep small parts, dirt or other contamination from entering Tag all similar internal parts for location and direction. All internal components should be re- installed in the same location and direction from which removed. Record the number and thick- ness of any shims as they are removed. Small Parts, such as bolts, can be identified by placing them in plastic sandwich bags. Seal and label them with masking tape, Wiring should be tagged with masking tape and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do not rely on memory alone. Protect finished surfaces from physical dam- age or corrosion. Keep gasoline off painted sur- faces. Assembly Precautions No parts, except those assembled with a press fit, require unusual force during assembly. If a part is hard to remove or install, find out why before proceeding. When assembling two parts, start all fasteners, then tighten evenly in an alternating or crossing pattern if no specific tightening sequence is given. When assembling parts, be sure all shims and washers are installed exactly as they came out. CHAPTER TWO Whenever a rotating part butts against a sta- tionary part, look for a shim or washer. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition of the old ones. Unless otherwise specified, a thin Heavy grease can be used to hold small parts in place if they tend to fall out during assembly. However, keep grease and oil away from electri- cal components. High spots may be sanded off a piston with sandpaper, but fine emery cloth and oil will do a much more professional job. Carbon can be removed from the cylinder head, the piston crown and the exhaust port with a dull screwdriver. Do not scratch either surface. Wipe off the surface with a clean cloth when finished, The carburetor is best cleaned by disassem- bling it and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rub- ber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to clean out jets and air passages; they are easily damaged. Use compressed air to blow out the carburetor after the float has been removed. Take your time and do the job right. Do not forget that the break-in procedure on a newly rebuilt engine is the same as that of a new one. Use the break-in oil recommendations and fol- low other instructions given in your owner’s manual. SPECIAL TIPS Because of the extreme demands placed on marine equipment, several points should be kept in mind when performing service and repair. The following items are general suggestions that may improve the overall life of the machine and help avoid costly failures. 1. Unless otherwise specified, use a locking compound, such as Loctite Threadlocker, on all bolts and nuts, even if they are secured with lockwashers. Be sure to use the specified gradeTOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 31 of thread locking compound. A screw or bolt lost from an engine cover or bearing retainer could easily cause serious and expensive damage be- fore its loss is noticed. ‘When applying thread locking compound, use ‘a small amount. If too much is used, it can work its way down the threads and stick parts together that were not meant to be stuck together. Keep a tube of thread locking compound in your tool box; when used properly, it is cheap insurance. 2. Use a hammer-driven impact tool to remove and install screws and bolts. These tools help prevent the rounding off of bolt heads and screw slots and ensure a tight installation, 3. When straightening the fold-over type lock- washer, use a wide-blade chisel, such as an old and dull wood chisel. Such a tool provides a better purchase on the folded tab, making straightening easier. 4, When installing the fold-over type lock- washer, always use a new washer if possible, If a new washer is not available, always fold over a part of the washer that has not been previously folded. Reusing the same fold may cause the washer to break, resulting in the loss of its lock- ing ability and a loose piece of metal adrift in the engine. ‘When folding the washer, start the fold with a screwdriver and finish it with a pair of pliers. If a punch is used to make the fold, the fold may be too sharp, thereby increasing the chances of the ‘washer breaking under stre ‘These washers are relatively inexpensive and it is suggested that you keep several of each size in your tool box for repairs. ‘5. When replacing missing or broken fasteners (bolts, nuts and screws), always use authorized replacement parts. They are specially hardened for each application. The wrong 50-cent bolt could easily cause serious and expensive dam- age. 6. When installing gaskets, always use author- ized replacement gaskets without sealer, unless designated. Many gaskets are designed to swell when they come in contact with oil. Gasket sealer will prevent the gaskets from swelling as intended and can result in oil leaks. Authorized replacement gaskets are cut from material of the precise thickness needed. Installation of a too thick or too thin gasket in a critical area could cause equipment damage. MECHANIC’S TECHNIQUES Removing Frozen Fasteners ‘When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed, several methods may be used to loosen it. First, apply penetrating oil, such as Liquid Wrench or WD-40 (available at any hardware or auto sup- ply store). Apply it liberally and allow it pene- trate for 10-5 minutes. Tap the fastener several times with a small hammer; do not hit it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrat- ing oil if necessary. For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as described, then insert a screwdriver in the slot and tap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. ‘This loosens the rust so the screw can be re- moved in the normal way. If the screw head is too chewed up to use a screwdriver, grip the head with locking pliers and twist the screw out. Avoid applying heat unless specifically in- structed because it may melt, warp or remove the temper from parts. Remedying Stripped Threads Occasionally, threads are stripped through carelessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be cleaned up by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for extemal threads on bolts) through threads. See Figure 23.32 Removing Broken Screws or Bolts When the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several methods are available for removing the remaining portion. Ifa large portion of the remainder projects out, try gripping it with vise-grip pliers. If the pro- Jecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench een AS CHAPTER TWO or cut a slot in itto fit a screwdriver. See Figure 24, If the head breaks off flush, use a screw ex- tractor, To do this, centerpunch the remaining Portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in the screw and tap the extractor into the hole. Back the screw out with a wrench on the extrac- tor. See Figure 25,Chapter Three Troubleshooting ‘Troubleshooting isthe simple process of testing individ- ual systems for the purpose of quickly isolating good systems from defective or non-functional system(s). When ‘system is identified as defective, roubléshooting contin- tues with testing of the individual components from the suspect system. It is very important to perform only one test procedure at a time; otherwise, it will be difficult, if not impossible, to determine the condition of each individ- ual component. Occasionally a component in a system cannot be tested separately. In this case, other components are tested and climinated until the suspect component is identified as, defective by the process of elimination. The most impor- tant rules of troubleshooting are to test systems before ‘components and to be methodical. Haphazardly jumping from one system or component to another may eventually solve the problem, but time and effort will be wasted, Use the various system diagrams provided in this manual 10 ‘dentfy all components in a system. Test each component in a rational order to determine which component has caused the system's failure, ‘The troubleshooting process generally begins when an ‘unusual symptom (decrease in performance or unsatisfac- tory operating characteristic) is noticed. The next step isto define the symptom as accurately as possible. Key points to consider are: 1. Did the problem occur suddenly or gradually? 2. Is there a specific engine speed or load at which the problem occurs? 3. Does the weather (extreme hot or cold) or engine tem- perature affect the symptom? 4. Has any service work been recently performed? 5. Has the unit recently come out of storage? 6. Has the fuel supplier or fuel grade been recently changed? 7. Is the manufacturer's recommended oil being used? 8. Have any accessories been added to the boat or engine? Once the symptom is adequately defined, attempt t0 duplicate the problem. Check the easy, simple areas first ‘such as failure to prime the fuel system, attach the safety lanyard or an incorrect starting procedure, Before beginning any troubleshooting procedure, per- form a thorough visual inspection of the unit. Pay special attention to the condition of the battery cable connections {atthe battery and the outboard motor, all electrical har- ress connectors and terminals, fuel quantity, quality and supply, indications of engine overheat, evidence of leaks (uel, oil and water) and mechanical integrity (loose fi teners, cracked or broken castings). Learning to recognize visual defects is a skill that comes from self-discipline and patience. Take your time and look closely. Use your hands to touch, feel and wiggle components, Be realistic about your capabilities, especially when ‘working from a home garage or driveway. Service depart- ‘ments tend to charge heavily to reassemble an engine that ‘comes into the shop in several boxes, while some will refuse to take on such a job, Proper lubrication, maintenance and engine tune-up as described in Chapter Four will reduce the necessity for troubleshooting. However, because of the harsh and de- ‘manding environment in which the outboard motor oper-34 CHAPTER THREE ates, roubleshooting at some point in the motor’s service- able life is inevitable. ‘This chapter concentrates on the actual troubleshooting procedure. Once the defective component is identified, refer to the appropriate chapter for removal and replace- ‘ment procedures. Refer to the Quick Reference Data sec- tion at the front of the manual for tables containing ‘common engine specifications, standard torque values, and spark plug recommendations ‘Tables 1-4 list recommended test equipment and tools, ‘wire color codes and battery cable recommendations. Ta- bles 5-8 cover typical symptoms and solutions for the starting, charging, ignition and fuel systems. Tables 9-15 list specifications (or identify) the starting, charging and ‘ignition systems. Tables 1-16 are located at the end ofthis chapter. SERVICE PRECAUTIONS— 1998 MODEL YEAR ENGINES ‘The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) certifies emission output for all 1998 (EC) models. Certified mod- els have an EPA certification plate mounted near the model ‘identification plate on the engine midsection. Refer to Model Identification in Chapter Bight for illus- ‘rations and additional information on the certification plate All repairs or service procedures must be performed exactly as specified to ensure the engine will continue to ‘comply with EPA requirements. For the same reason, all replacement parts must meet or exceed the manufacturer's specifications If in doubt as to whether a repair or service procedure will adversely affect the engine’s ability to maintain EPA compliance, contact an Evinrude or Johnson dealership before beginning the repair or procedure. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ‘Wear approved eye protection at all times (Figure 1), especially when machinery isin operation and when using ‘abammer, Wear approved ear protection during all running tests and in the presence of noisy machinery. Keep loose clothing tucked in and long hair tied back and secured. Refer to Safety First in Chapter Two for additional safety Buidelines. ‘When making or breaking any electrical connection, always disconnect the negative battery cable. When per- forming tests that require cranking the engine without starting, disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starts and sparks. Securely cap or plug all disconnected fuel lines to pre- vent fuel discharge when the motor is cranked or the primer bulb is squeezed, ‘Thoroughly read all manufacturer's instructions and. safety sheets for test equipment and special tools being used, Do not substitute parts unless you know they meet or exceed the manufacturer's specifications. Never run an outboard motor without an adequate water supply. Never run an outboard motor at wide-open throttle ‘without an adequate load. Do not exceed 3000 rpm in neutral (no load). Safely performing on-water tests requires two people. (One person must operate the boat while the other monitors ‘the gauges or fest instruments. All personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times. It is not acceptable to lean over the transom while the boat is under way. Use ‘extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seating area. ‘Test Wheels (Propellers) ‘OMC recommends using the specified test wheel (pro- pellet) for procedures that require running the engine under load. An illustration of atypical test wheel is located in Chapter Five. The correct test wheel will suitably load the engine while producing a minimal amount of thrust. Use a test wheel in an adequately sized test tank, with the boat on a trailer backed into the water or with the boat launched and tied to a dock. ‘Test wheels are available from OMC Genuine Parts and. are listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the front Of this manual. The test whee! is also used to determine ‘whether or not the engine is producing its rated power. A ‘minimum speed testis listed for each engine in the Quick Reference Data Section. If the engine can reach or exceed the specified minimum test speed with the specified test ‘wheel installed, the engine is producing its rated power.TROUBLESHOOTING 35 ‘The gearcase must be submerged in water to at least its ‘normal operating, depth and the gearcase must be shifted into FORWARD gear for this test A suitable test propeller can also be made by modifying (tuming down) the diameter of a standard low pitch alumi- ‘num propeller until the recommended wide-open throttle speed can be obtained with the motor (and boat) on a trailer, backed into the water. Be careful when tying the boat to a dock as considerable thrust is developed by this (ype of test propeller. Some docks may not be able to withstand the load. Propeller repair stations can provide the modification service. Normally, approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of the blade @ surface is removed. However, itis far beter to remove too litle, than too much. It may take several ties to achieve the correct ful throttle speed, but once achieved, no further ‘modifications are required. Many propeller repair stations will have experience with this type of modification and ‘may be able to recommend a starting point. ‘Test wheels and/or propellers allow simple tracking of engine performance. The full throttle test speed of an engine fitted with the correct test wheel or correctly modi- fied propeller can be tracked from season to season. It is ‘not unusual for a new or rebuilt engine to show a slight increase in test propeller speed as complete break-in is achieved. The engine will generally hold this speed over the normal service life ofthe engine. As the engine begins to wear out, the test wheel (propeller) speed will show @ gradual decrease that deteriorates to a marked or drastic ‘decrease, asthe point of engine failure is reached. OPERATING REQUIREMENTS Al two-stroke engines require three basic conditions to run properly: The correct air and fuel mixture from the ‘carburetor, crankcase and combustion chamber compres- sion, and adequate spark delivered to the spark plug at the correct time. When troubleshooting it is helpful toremem- ber: fuel, compression and spark (Figure 2). If any ofthese are lacking the motor will not run. First, verify the me- chanical integrity ofthe engine by performing a compres- sion test (Chapter Four). Once compression is verified, test the ignition system with an air gap spark tester and then finally focus your attention on the fuel system. Trou- bleshooting in this order will provide the quickest results. Ifthe motor has been sitting for any length of time and, refuses to start, check the condition of the battery first to ‘make sure itis adequately charged, then inspect the battery cable connections at the battery and the engine. Examine the fuel delivery system. This includes the fuel tank, fuel ‘pump, fuel lines, fuel filters and carburetor(s). Rust or corrosion may have formed in the tank, restricting fuel flow. Gasoline deposits may have gummed up carburetor Jets and air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency after standing for long periods. Condensation may con- taminate the fuel with water. Connect a portable tank containing fresh fuel mix to help isolate the problem, Do ‘not drain the old gasoline unless you are sure it is at fault Always dispose of old gasoline in accordance with EPA regulations.36 Starting Difficulties Occasionally, an outboard motor willbe plagued by hard starting and generally poor performance (especially at low speeds) for which there seems to be no good cause. If fuel and ignition systems test satisfactorily and a compression test indicates that the combustion chamber components (Pistons, rings, cylinder walls and head gaskets) are ‘g00d condition, the crankcase sealing should be tested. ‘What has not been tested is crankcase sealing. A two-cy- cle engine cannot function unless the crankcase is ade- quately sealed. As the piston travels downward, the crankcase must pressurize and push the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber as te intake ports are uncov- cred. Conversely, as the piston travels upward, the crank- {case must create a vacuum to pull the air/fuel mixture into the crankcase from the carburetor in preparation for the next cycle. Refer to Chapter Two for operational diagrams of a typical two-stroke engine. Leakage in the crankcase cause the air/fuel charge to Teak into the atmosphere under crankcase compression. During the intake stroke, crankcase leakage will cause ait from the atmosphere to be drawn into the crankcase, dilut- ing the air/fuel charge. The net result is inadequate fuel in the combustion chamber. On multiple cylinder engines, ‘each crankcase must be sealed from all other erankcases. Internal leakage will allow the air/fuel charge to leak to another cylinder’s crankcase, rather than travel to the cor- rect combustion chamber. ‘The function of the lower piston ring on most two-stroke engines is to seal the crankcase. It is difficult to test this ring. Compression tests typically test the upper (compres- sion) ring, not the lower ring. A classic symptom of lower ing failure is the inability to idle atthe recommended idle speed. The engine will run fine at higher speeds, but will slowly stall when idle is attempted Extemal crankcase leakage can be identified with a visual inspection for fuel residue leaking from the crank- ‘case parting lines, upper and lower crankshaft seal, reed. valves and intake manifolds, Pressure leaking out of the crankcase can be quickly identified with a soap and water solution. Air leaking into the crankcase can be found by applying oil to the suspected sealing area; the oil will be drawn into the crankcase at the point of the leak. Internal leakage is difficult to identify. If there are fit- ‘tings on each crankcase for fuel pumps, primers or recir- culation systems, a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge can be attached. As the engine is cranked, a repeating pres- sure/vacuum cycle must be observed on the gauge. The pressure reading must be substantially higher than the vacuum reading. All cylinders must read basically the CHAPTER THREE ‘same. If this is not possible, the engine must be disassem- bled and internally inspected. ‘TEST AND REPAIR EQUIPMENT Voltage Voltage isthe pressure in an electrical circuit. The more Pressure, the more work that can be done. Voltage can be Visualized as water pressure in a garden hose. The more pressure, the further the water can be sprayed, Water can be present in the hose, but without pressure, you cannot ‘accomplish anything. Ifthe water pressure is too high, the hhose will burst. When voltage is excessive, it wil leak past the insulation and arc to ground, Voltage is always meas- lured with a voltmeter ina simple parallel connection, The connection of a voltmeter directly to the negative and positive terminals of a battery is an example of a parallel ‘connection (Figure 3). Nothing has to be disconnected to ‘make a parallel connection, Just as a water pressure gauge simply has a tap into a hose or pipe, a voltmeter is an electrical pressure gauge that taps into the electrical circuit. DC Voltage DC voltage is direct current voltage, meaning that the electricity always flows in one direction only. All circuits associated with the battery are DC circuits.TROUBLESHOOTING 37 AC Voltage AC voltage is alternating current, which means thatthe ccurrent flows in one direction momentarily and then switches to the opposite direction. The frequency at which AC voltage changes direction is referred to as hertz. Household wiring is 115 volts AC and typically 60 hertz (the average value of electrical pressure is 115 volts and the electricity changes direction 60 times per second). In typical outboard motor applications, the charging system's stator output is AC voltage. In larger, inboard powered applications, AC voltage is typically created by adedicated AC generator (genset) that powers high load devices such as air-conditioning and appliances. Shore power is also AC voltage. Standard AC voltmeters take an average reading of the fluctuating voltage signal. RMS (root mean square) ‘AC voltmeters use a different mathematical formula to come up with a value of the voltage signal. RMS meters must only be used where specified, since the difference in readings between a standard AC meter and a RMS AC meter is significant. Peak Voltage ‘This typeof measurement of AC voltage takes the abso Jute peak or highest value of the fluctuating AC voltage signal. Peak readings are substantially higher than standard or RMS AC values and are typically used when testing ‘marine CD (capacitor discharge) ignition systems. Other ‘manufacturers may refer to this as a DVA voltage reading. DVA stands for direct voltage adaptor, which is used to adapt a standard AC multimeter to measure peak AC volt- age. Failure to use a meter with a peak (DVA) scale can cause. ‘2004 ignition components to be incorrectly diagnosed as ‘bad. OMC specifically recommends one of the following. peak voltage meters: the Stevens Instruments CD-77 (Fig- ture 4) or the Mercotronic 781. If any other meter is used, it must provide equivalent readings to these meters. Amperes Amperes (amps) ae referred to as current. Currents the actual flow of electricity ina circuit. Curent can be visu- alized as water flowing from a garden hose. There can be pressure in the hose, but if we do not let it flow, no work can be done. The higher the flow of current the more work that can be done. However, when too much current flows through a wire, the wire will overheat and melt. Melted wires are caused by excessive current, not excessive volt- age. ‘Amps are measured with an ammeter in a simple series connection. The connection of an ammeter requires the disconnection ofa circuit and the splicing ofthe ammeter into the circuit. Just as a water flow-meter must have the water flow through it in order to measure the flow, an ammeter isan electrical flow-meter that must have al of the current flow through it. Always use an ammeter that can read higher than the anticipated current flow. Always connect the red lead ofthe ammeter to where the electricity is coming from (electrical source) and the black lead of the ammeter to where the electricity is going (electrical load) See Figure 5.38 Many digital multimeters use inductive or clamp-on_ ammeter probes (Figure 6). These probes read the mag- netic field strength created from current flowing through a wire. No electrical connection is required, simply slip the probe over the lead. A simple form of ammeter is the direct reading inductive ammeter (Figure 7). These meters directly read the mag- netic field strength created from current flowing through a ‘wire. No electrical connection is required; simply slip the ‘meter over the lead so that the lead is located in the channel ‘or groove located on the rear of the meter. Watts ‘Watts (W) are the measurement units for power in an electrical circuit. Watts rate the ability t0 do electrical work. The easiest formula for calculating wats isto take the system voltage times the amps flowing (12-volt system ‘times 10 amp alternator = 120 watt maximum load). You can easly reverse-calculate amp load by dividing watts by voltage. For example, a 12-watt radio (divided by 12-volt system voltage) uses 1 amp of current. When calculating oad on a charging system, remember that you cannot carry ‘more load than the system is rated for or the battery will ‘constantly discharge. ‘Ohms ‘Ohms (4) are the measurement units for resistance in an electrical circuit. Resistance will cause a reduction in ‘current flow and a reduction (or drop) in voltage. Visual- ized as a kink in a garden hose, which would cause less ‘water (current) to flow, it would also cause less pressure (volts) to be available downstream from the kink. ‘Ohms are measured with ohmmeters that are self-pow- cred. Ohmimeters send a small amount of electricity into a circuit and measure how hard they have to push to return the electricity to the meter. An ohmmeter mustonly be used fon a circuit or component that is isolated (disconnected from any other circuit ot component) and has no voltage present. Ohmmeters are technically connected in series, For additional information on measuring ohms, refer to Ohmmeter guidelines located later in this chapter ‘Voltage Drop Test Since resistance causes voltage to drop, resistance can ‘be measured on an active circuit with a voltmeter. This is the voltage drop test. Basically, a voltage drop test meas- ures the difference in voltage from the beginning of the tested circuit to the end of the tested circuit, while the CHAPTER THREE circuit is being operated. Ifthe circuit has no resistance, there will be no voltage drop (the meter will read zero volts). The more resistance the circuit has, the higher the voltmeter reading wil be. Generally, voltage drop readings of one or more volts are considered unsatisfactory. The chief advantage to the voltage drop test over a resistance test is that the circuit is tested during operation. It is important to remember that a zero reading on a voltage drop test is good, while a battery voltage reading would signify an open circuit. ‘The voltage drop test provides an excellent means of testing solenoids (relays), battery cables and high current electrical leads (both positive and negative). As with the ‘ammeter, always connect the red lead of the voltmeter to ‘where the electricity is coming from (source) and the black lead of the voltmeter to where the electricity is going (load), ‘Multipliers ‘When using an analog multimeter to measure ohms, the seale choices will typically be labeled R x 1, Rx 10, Rx 100 and so on. These are resistance scale multipliers. R x 100 means to multiply the meter reading by 100. If theTROUBLESHOOTING needle indicated a reading of 75 ohms while set to the R x 100 scale, the actual resistance reading would be 75 x 100 ‘or 7500 ohms. It is important to note and remember the scale multiplier when using an analog ohmmeter, Other multipliers commonly used for volts, ohms and amps scales are: mega (M), kilo- (k), milli- (m) and ricro-(%). Mega (M) is a 1,000,000 multiplier, 75 mega- ‘ohms (or 75 M-ohms) is 75 million ohms. Kilo (k) is a 1,000 multiplier, 75 kilo-volts (or 75 k-volts) is 75 thou- sand volts. Milli (m) is a 0.001 multiplier, 75 milli-volts (or 75 m-volts) is 0.075 volts or 75 thousandths of a volt Micro (4) is a 0.000001 multiplies, 75 micro-amps (or 75 ‘%-amps) is 0.000075 amps or 75 millionths of an amp. 39 Diodes Diodes are one-way check valves for electricity. A series of diodes used to change AC current to DC current iscalled a rectifier. Single diodes used to prevent reverse flow of electricity are typically called blocking diodes. Diodes can be tested with an analog meter set to any ohmmeter scale ‘other than low or with a digital multimeter set tothe diode test scale, A diode tested with an analog ohmmeter will indicate a relatively low reading in one polarity and a relatively high reading in the opposite polarity. A diode tested with a digital multimeter will read a voltage drop of, approximately 0.4-0.9 volts in one polarity and an open circuit in the opposite polarity Analog Multimeter ‘A recommended analog multimeter isthe Electro-Spe- cialties model No. 530, also available from Quicksilver parts and accessories (Mercury or Mariner Dealer) as part No, 91-99750 (Figure 8). This economical meter features ‘AC and DC volts, DVA (Peak volts), 10 amp DC ammeter and four ohmmeter ranges. When using this meter to read peak volts (DVA) on OMC (Evinrude/Johnson) ignition systems, it may be necessary to reverse the leads polarity to obtain satisfactory readings. ‘When using an anslog meter to read ohms, the meter must be calibrated (zeroed) each time the scale orange is changed. Normally the ohmmeter leads are connected for calibration; however, some meters require thatthe leads not be touching for calibration wien using the Tow ohms scale. Always follow the manufacturer’ instructions for calibration ‘When checking for a short to ground, calibrate on the highest scale available, When checking diodes, calibrate fon the RX 10 scale or higher. If the ohmmeter is $6 equipped, never use its low scale to testa diode or short to ‘ground. When checking fr a specific ohm value, calibrate the obmmeter on a scale that allows reading the specifica- tion as near the middle of the meter movement as possible. Analog meters allow easy visual identification of erratic or ‘uctuating readings. Digital Multimeter ‘The digital multimeter is rapidly gaining popularity in the marine industry after many years of acceptance in the automotive industry. Digital displays are easy and clear to read. Most digital meters are auto-ranging, which means ‘that they automatically shift to the scale most appropriate for displaying the value being read, However, be careful to40 read the scale correctly, Refer to Multipliers located pre- viously in this chapter. Fluctuating readings can be frustrating to read as the display will change several times a second. Quality digital ‘multimeters typically have a bar graph located below the digital number display. The bar graph allows easy interpre- {ation of fluctuating readings, similar to an analog meter. ‘The scale range and multiplier (if applicable) will be displayed alongside the actual reading. Most quality digital meters have a special diode test scale that measures the voltage drop of the diode, instead fits resistance. Do not attempt to use the digital multime- ter’s ohms scale to test diodes, as the readings will be inconsistent. The digital multimeter is protected by inter- nal fuses that are usually uncommon sizes. Buy several spate fuses atthe time of purchase. Adapters are available for temperature readings, induc- tive ammeter readings and many other functions, Figure 9 shows a digital multimeter ina protective case with several adapters. ‘Ohmmeter Guidelines When using an analog or digital multimeter to measure ‘ohms, itis important to understand two electrical condi- tions: 1. Continuity—Indicated by a 0 (zero) or very low (near ero) reading. Continuity means that electricity can flow and is best visualized asa solid wire. This condition is also referred to as a closed circuit. 2. No continuity—Indicated by an infinity (ce) oF very high (near infinity) reading. No continuity means that electricity cannot flow and is best visualized as a wire broken in two. This condition is also referred to as an open circuit, Resistance (Ohmmeter) Tests ‘The resistance values are based on tests performed at room temperature. Actual resistance readings obtained during testing will generally be slightly higher if checked ‘on hot components and lower if checked on very cold ‘components. In addition, resistance readings may vary ‘depending on the manufacturer of the ohmmeter. There- fore, use discretion when failing any component that is only slightly out of specification. Many ohmmeters have difficulty reading less than 1 ohm accurately. If this isthe ‘case, specifications of less than 1 ohm generally appear as, avery low (continuity) reading. CHAPTER THREE Test Light ‘The test light is a useful tool for simple troubleshooting, A test light must not be used on electronic circuits, such as ‘modern ignition and fuel injection circuits. The current ‘draw of the test lamp can damage delicate electronic cir- cuits. A test light must also not be used where specific voltage values are being sought. Before beginning any troubleshooting with atest lamp, Connect the test lamp directly to the battery and observe the brightness of the bulb. You must reference the rest of your readings against ths test. If the bulb does not glow asTROUBLESHOOTIN' 41 brightly as when it was hooked directly to the battery, a problem is indicated, ‘A test lamp can be used to check ground circuits by connecting the test lamp lead directly to the positive (+) battery terminal. When the test lamp probe is connected to a good ground circuit, the light will glow brightly. Electrical Repairs ‘Check all electrical connections for corrosion, mechan cal damage, heat damage and loose connections. Clean and repair all connections as necessary. All wire splices or ‘connector repairs must be made with waterproof marine grade connectors and heat shrink tubing. The OMC Genu- ine Parts dealer catalog lists heat shrink connectors and Doeat shrink tubing for making waterproof wire splices (repairs) on engine and boat hamesses, and for making waterproof connections when adding accessories or mak- ‘ng other repsis. Marine and industrial suppliers are add tional sources for quality electrical repair equipment. Four distinct types of connectors are used on engines covered in this manual. Refer to Chapter Seven for com- plete connector service. 1, Bullet connectors—The bullet connector (Figure 10) is a common connector used widely in the industry. The bullet connectors used on Evinrude/Johnson engines use vinyl sleeves with several internal sealing ribs to seal the sleeve tothe lead as tightly as possible. Replacement male and female connectors, and their appropriate sleeves are listed in the manufacturer's parts catalog. The connectors are crimped in place with a pair of standard crimping pliers. Make sure the correct vinyl sleeve (male or female) is installed over the lead before crimping the connector in place. 2, Amphenol connectors—Amphenol connectors have been widely used on Evinrude/Fohnson engines since 1978. Identify amphenol connectors by their round, dark rubber connector bodies. Often a wire locking clip (or wire bail) is used to keep the connector from vibrating apart. A disconnected Amphenol connector and its wire bail are shown in Figure 11 CAUTION Always lubricate Amphenol connectors with isopropyl alcohol when connecting/discon- necting the bodies and/or replacing pins. The water resistant molded seals in the bod- ies will be damaged ifno lubricant is used. 3. Deutsch connectors—OMC began using Deutsch con- nectors (Figure 12) when the Modular Wiring System (MWS) was introduced on remote control models beg! ning with the 1996 model year. The modular wiring har- ness is designed to allow flexible, uncomplicated rigging with exceptional durability. These connectors are consid- ered totally waterproof when correctly installed and serv- iced. Deutsch style connectors are easily identified by their hard plastic bodies, orange locking wedges and orange silicone elastomer seals. An external locking tab prevents the connectors from vibrating apart and must be manually released before the connectors can be separated. Each terminal pins locked into the connector body with its own individual internal locking tab. ‘CAUTION Always lubricate the seals of Deutsch con- rectors with OMC Electrical Grease when reconnecting the bodies and/or replacing the pins. Ifthe locking wedge is removed, fill the ‘connector body cavity (for the wedge) with OMC Electrical Grease to within 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of the wedge-to-connector body ‘mating surface.a 4, Packard connectors—While the Packard connector (Figure 13, typical) is used extensively in the automotive industry, its use is somewhat limited on Evinrude/Johnson engines. This connector is only used to connect an engine hharness directly o an electrical or ignition component and is not used to connect a harness to another harness. CAUTION Always lubricate the seals of Packard con- rectors with OMC Electrical Grease when reconnecting the bodies or replacing the in(s), body or seals. ‘There are two styles of Packard connector used on the 660° V4 and V6 engines covered in this manual. The first style is easily identified by a flat arrangement of the terminal pins (in a straight row), the large U-shaped lock- ing tab and the three-ribbed replaceable seals (one sealing the leads to the body and the other sealing the body to the ‘component). ‘To replace the body or the lead-to-body seal, all terminal pins must be removed and cut from their leads, Unlock the pins by inserting a suitable terminal tool (from an automo- tive tool supplier) into the rear of the body after the lead-to-body seal is moved out and away from the body. Make sure the leads are routed through the new seal and/or ‘connector body before crimping new terminal pins to the leads. After crimping, pull the leads (and pins) into the ‘connector body until they lock in place. This is a Pull-1o- Lock connector. ‘The second style of Packard connector is used on the ‘ignition module of the 60° (loop-charged) V6 engines in six- and eight-pin configurations (Figure 14). This con- nector is easily identified by the two stacked rows of terminal pins (three or four each row). Each pin hasits own, {individual rear seal, while a common three-ribbed seal is used to Seal the connector body to the component. ‘To replace the body (or the lead-to-body seals), unlock the terminal pins by inserting a suitable terminal tool (such as a paper clip) into the front of the body and depressing the locking tab. Pull the pin and lead out the rear of the body. Before reinserting the pin, lead and seal into the body, be sure to bend each pin’s locking tab up slightly, to censure a positive lock. Then push each lead and pin into the body until it locks in place. This is a Push-to-Lock ‘connector. WIRING HARNESSES While many variations of wiring hamesses, switches, warning systems and controls are available, they fall into ‘one of the following general categories. CHAPTER THREE 1995 Models Prior to 1996, the engine wiring harness was connected to the remote control (boat) wiring hamess with a large, red, ten-pin rubber plug. Figure 15 shows the remote ‘control hamess end of the ten-pin plug. If the engine is ‘equipped with trim and tlt, an additional five-pin Amphe- nol connector is used for the trimtilt circuits. Bullet con- rectors are used to connect the oil tank’s low oil sending unit to the engine hamess. A dedicated safety lanyardTROUBLESHOOTING switch is mounted in the control box or in the boats dash. ‘The motor will only rum ifthe lanyard is installed. ‘This system is referred to as the Traditional Wiring Harness in this manual. Refer to Table 2 for the color ccodes used on traditional wiring hamesses. 1996-1998 Models Beginning with the 1996 model year, a new system called the Modular Wiring System (MWS) was incorpo- rated, The MWS system is designed to be used with an ‘OMC System Check engine monitoring gauge. The Sys- tem Check gauge (Figure 16) has four light emitting diodes (LEDs) that allow the operator to easily identify ‘whether: ‘SYSTEM CHECK GAUGE a, The engine is overheating (water temp). ’, The engine is not receiving oil (n0 oil). cc, The fuel supply is restricted (check engine). 4. The oil tank’s oil level is low (Low oil) Several styles of OMC tachometers are available with the System Check gauge integrated into the tachometer. If 1a System Check gauge is not used, an audible driver ‘module must be installed in its place. The module will sound the warning horn if any ofthe previously mentioned problems occur, but wll not indicate the exact cause ofthe warning signal. ‘The MWS main hamess (Figure 17) uses three Deutsch ‘connectors to connect the boat (remote control) harness to the engine hamess and a single Deutsch connector to connect the remote oil tank to the engine harness. At the remote control end, a series of Deutsch connectors is used to connect the boat hamess to the remote control (or ignition switch) harness, the warning hom, the System Check gauge (or audible driver module) and a trimtilt switch (if equipped). Ring terminals are provided for the ‘rimtilt gauge, a conventional tachometer, switched bat- tery positive (B+) and a black ground lead. Refer to Table 3 for the color codes used on the MWS harness. The safety lanyard switch is incorporated into the ignition switch and holds the switch’s plunger depressed (Figure 18); Pulling the lanyard allows the plunger to extend and rotates the switch to the OFF or STOP position. It js not necessary for the lanyard to be in- stalled in order for the motor to run. If the operator is, ejected from the boat (with the lanyard), this design allows any remaining occupants in the boat to restart the ‘engine and rescue the operator. WARNING It is the operator’s responsibility to make ‘sure the lanyard is installed on the ignition ‘switch and connected to the operator, before beginning operation. ‘The key benefits of the MWS system are: elimination of the large, red, 10-pin rubber plug and the separate safety lanyard switch, easy removal and installation of all com- ponents, fully waterproof connections and easy-to-under- stand warning signals from the System Check gauge. The main MWS harness (boat hamess) is available in different lengths to match the boat’s length. Extension and adaptor kits are available to allow the use of 1995 engines ‘on boats equipped with the MWS and System Check, and to allow the use of 1996-1998 engines on boats equipped ‘with the traditional wiring harness. Consult an OMC deal- ership for your specific application.STARTING SYSTEM Description All Evinrude and Johnson outboard motors covered in this manual are equipped with an electric start system. The starter motor is mounted vertically on the port side of the ‘power head and uses an inertia-driven bendix (pinion gear) CHAPTER THREE assembly. When battery current is supplied to the starter ‘motor by the starter solenoid, the pinion gear is thrust ‘upward (via spiral splines) to engage the flywheel’s teeth. ‘Once the engine starts, the flywheel will overrun the pinion gear and a spring will disengage the pinion gear from the flywheel. ‘Starter motors are direct drive on 90° V4 (loop-charged and cross-flow) models. See Figure 19, typical. Gear ©) (MC MODULAR WIRING SYSTEM 1. Modular wiring harness 2. Engine connectors (Deutsch) 3. Waring horn Deutsch connector 44. System check gauge Deutsch connector 5, Traditional tachometer ring termin Tiitt gauge ring terminals ‘Timi ewiteh Deutsch connector {ition switch Deutsch connectorTROUBLESHOOTING 45 reduction starters are used on 60° V4 (loop-charged) mod- cls and all V6 and V8 models. (On 60° V4 and V6 models, the reduction gear and pinion assembly (Figure 20) is mounted directly to the power head. The starter motor can be removed without removing the reduction assembly. The starter solenoid is mounted diredly to the bottom ofthe starter motor. A metal strap ae replaces the cable normally used to electrically connect the solenoid to the starter. ‘On 90° V6 and V8 models, the reduction gear and pinion assembly are an integral part of the starter motor assembly. ‘The starting system requires a fully charged battery of atleast the minimum specified capacity to provide the large ‘amount of electrical current necessary to operate the starter motor. All models incorporate an alternator to keep the battery charged during engine operation. CAUTION To prevent starter damage from overheating, do not operate the starter motor continu ‘ously for more than 10 seconds. Allow the ‘motor to cool for at least two minutes be: ‘ween attempt to start the engine. Remote control models ‘These models use an electric starting system consisting, of the battery, fuse (or circuit breaker) starter switch,CHAPTER THREE ) ‘STARTING SYSTEM COMPONENTS (REMOTE CONTROL MODELS)TROUBLESHOOTING neutral safety switch, starter solenoid, starter motor and related wiring, See Figure 21, The neutral safety switch allows starter engagement only ifthe gear shift isin the ‘NEUTRAL position. The neutral safety switch is mounted inthe remote control box. A20-amp fuse (orcircuit breaker on V8 models) is used to protect the remote control key switch circuits. The fuse (or circuit breaker) is located on the engine, between the staner solenoid and the main hhamess connector. Engaging the starter switch allows current to flow through the neutral safety switch to the starter solenoid’s coil windings, causing the solenoid contacts to close and allowing current to flow directly fromthe battery, through the solenoid and into the starter motor. Tiller handle models Since these models do not use a remote control box, a start button and ignition switch are mounted on the en- zine’s lower cowl. The major components of this starting system are very similar to the remote control models described previously, with the following exceptions: 1. There is no neutral safety switch. A mechanical linkage prevents the starter button from being depressed when the shift lever is in FORWARD or REVERSE geat. 2. An ignition switch is used in conjunction with a starter ‘button switch. The starter motor will only engage if the starter button is pushed and the ignition switch isin the ON (RUN) position. See Figure 22. 47 ‘Troubleshooting Preparation If the following procedures do not locate the problem, refer to Table 5 for additional information. Before trou- bleshooting the starting circuit, check the following ‘a The battery must be fully charged, See Chapter Seven. 'b The shift control lever must be in the NEUTRAL positon . All electrical connections must be clean and tight. ‘The battery cable connections must be secured with ‘ex nuts and corrosion resistant lock washers. Place the lockwasher between the battery terminal and the battery cable to ensure a good connection (Figure 23). The use of wing nuts is not an acceptable means ‘of securing the battery cables to the battery. 4. The wiring harness must bein good condition, with no wom or frayed insulation. The fuse (or cireuit breaker) protecting the starter switch must not be blown (open). f. The power head or gearease is not the problem (mechanical failure). CAUTION Unless otherwise noted, perform all voltage (or test light tests with the leads connected, ‘and with the terminals exposed to accommo date test lead connection. Starter Motor Turns Slowly 1. Make sure the battery is in acceptable condition and fully charged. 2, Inspect all electrical connections for looseness or cor- rosion. Clean and tighten as necessary. 3. Check for the proper size and length of battery cables. Refer to Table 4 for recommended minimum cable gauge sizes and lengths. Replace cables that are undersize or relocate the battery to shorten the distance between the battery and starter solenoid. 4A. 90° V4, V6 and V8 engines—Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental starting. Tur the flywheel clockwise by hand and check for mechanical binding. If mechanical binding is evident, remove the lower gearcase to determine ifthe binding is in the power head or the lower gearcase. If no binding is evident, continue to Step 5. 4B. 60° V4 and V6 engines—Disconnect and ground the ‘spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental start- ing. Remove all of the spark plugs and the flywheel cover. ‘Using a suitable socket installed over the timing wheel screw (at the very top of the engine), tum the engine ‘clockwise and check for mechanical binding. If mechani- ‘cal binding is evident, remove the lower gearcase to deter-48 ‘mine if the binding is in the power head or the lower gearcase, If no binding is evident, reinstall the spark plugs and continue to Step 5. 5. Perform the starting system voltage drop test as de- scribed in the next section, 6. Check the starter motor no-load current draw and no- load speed as described in this chapter, CHAPTER THREE 7. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished with the troubleshooting procedure Starting system voltage drop test Excessive resistance in the battery cables, starter sole- noid and starter cable can restrict the current flow to the @ VOLTAGE DROP TEST (POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE) VOLTAGE DROP TEST (STARTER SOLENOID)‘TROUBLESHOOTING starter, causing the starter to turn the motor slowly, Slow cranking speed causes low ignition system output and subsequent hard starting. Use the following procedure to determine if any of the cables of the starter solenoid are the source of a voltage drop. If the problem is intermittent, try gently pulling, bending and flexing the cables and connections during the test. Sudden voltmeter fluctuations indicate a poor connec- tion has been located, ‘Remember that a voltage drop test measures the differ- cence in voltage from the beginning of a circuit or compo- ‘nent (© the end of the circuit or component. If there is resistance in the circuit, the voltage at the end will be less than the voltage at the beginning. The circuit must be active to ake a voltage drop reading (in this case the starter must bbe engaged). A voltmeter reading of 0 means that no resistance is present inthe test circuit. A reading of battery voltage means thatthe circuit is completely open (battery voltage going in and nothing coming out). Refer to Figures 24-27 for this procedure. Clean, tighten, repair or replace any cable or solenoid with exces- sive voltage drop. 1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental starting. 2, Connect the positive (red) voltmeter lead tothe positive battery terminal and the negative (black) voltmeter lead to the positive solenoid terminal as shown in Figure 24. 3, Engage the electric starter and observe the meter. Ifthe ‘meter indicates more than 0.3 volts, excessive resistance is present in the positive battery cable. Clean the connections, 49 repair the terminal ends or replace the positive battery cable. CAUTION Donot connect the positive voltmeter lead in ‘Step 4 until after the engine begins cranking. The open solenoid will read battery voltage ‘and could damage a volimeter set to a very Tow voltage scale. Inaddition, disconnect the voltmeter before stopping cranking. 4. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the starter side of the solenoid as shown in Figure 25. Engage the electric starter. While the engine is cranking, touch the positive voltmeter lead to the battery positive solenoid terminal as shown in Figure 28. Note the meter reading, then remove the voltmeter lead and discontinue cranking. If the meter indicates more than 0.2 volts, the starter solenoid has excessive internal resistance and must be replaced. 5. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter side of the solenoid and the negative voltmeter lead tothe starter ‘motor terminal as shown in Figure 26. Engage the electric starter and observe the meter. If the meter indicates more than 0.2 volts, excessive resistance is detected in the starter ‘motor cable (or strap). Clean the connections, repair the terminal ends or replace the starter motor cable (or trap). 6. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the engine end of the negative battery cable and the negative voltmeter lead to the negative battery terminal as shown in Figure 27, Engage the electric starter and observe the meter. If the ‘meter indicates more than 0.3 volts, the battery negative @ VOLTAGE DROP TEST (STARTER CABLE/STRAP)50 cable has excessive resistance. Clean the connections, re- pair the terminal ends or replace the negative battery cable, 7. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished. Starter Motor Does Not Turn ‘A test light or voltmeter are both acceptable tools for troubleshooting the starter circuit, IFusing atest light, first connect the test light directly tothe battery and observe the brightness of the bulb. You must reference the rest of your readings against this test. Ifthe bulb does not glow as brightly as when it was hooked directly to the battery, a problem (excessive resistance) is indicated. fusing a voltmeter, the meter must read within 1 volt of the battery voltage when the text indicates thatthe test lamp should light. Remote control models Refer to Figure 28 for this procedure, Refer to the end of the book for wiring diagrams. On V8 models, a 20-amp cireuit breaker is used instead of the fuse shown in Figure 28, CHAPTER THREE CAUTION Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental starting during all test procedures. Make sure the shift lever isin the NEUTRAL position before proceeding. 1, Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of the battery and touch the test lamp probe to metal anywhere ‘on the engine block. The test lamp must light. Ifthe lamp does not light or is dim, the battery ground cable connec- tions are loose or corroded, or there is an open circuit in the battery ground cable. Clean and tighten the connections, ‘or replace the negative battery cable as required, 2. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground and ‘connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid input terminal (1, Figure 28). The test lamp must light. Ifthe lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable connections are loose or corroded, or there is an open circuit in the cable between the battery and the solenoid. ‘Clean and tighten connections or replace the positive bat. tery cable as required, 3. Connect the test lamp probe to the yellow/red terminal on the starter solenoid (7, Figure 28). With the ignition Switch tumed to the START position observe the test lamp. @ VOLTAGE DROP TEST (NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE) i‘TROUBLESHOOTING 1. Ifthe test lamp lights, the starter system’s switching circuits are working correctly. Proceed to Step 11, b. If the test lamp does not light, an open circuit is present in the starter system's switching circuits. Proceed to Step 4 or Step 4B as appropriate. 4A. V4 and V6 models—Proceed as follows: ‘a. Remove the 20 amp fuse and connect the test lamp probe to the input side of the fuse holder (2, Figure 28). The test amp must light Ifnot, repair or replace the red lead between the starter solenoid and the fuse holder. by Test the 20 amp fuse with an obmmeter calibrated con the RX 1 scale. The fuse must indicate continuity. 51 If there is any doubt as to the fuse’s condition, replace the fuse. ¢. Install the fuse into the fuse holder. NOTE The 20-amp circuit breaker on V8 models hhas one red lead that connects directly tothe Starter solenoid (battery positive) terminal ‘and a second red lead that connects 10 the wiring harness red/purple lead at a bullet connector very near the circuit breaker. 4B. V8 models—Disconnect the bullet connector on the ‘output side of the 20-amp circuit breaker. Connect the test STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (REMOTE CONTROL MODELS)52 lamp probe to the red lead coming from the circuit breaker. The test lamp must light. If not, depress the circuit ‘breaker’s reset button. If the test lamp still does not light, replace the circuit breaker assembly. Reconnect the bullet connector when finished. 5A. 1995 models with traditional harnesses Unplug the larg, re, 10-pin main hamess connector and connect the tes light probe tothe red/purple pin (1, Figure 29) of the engine sie ofthe connector. The test amp must ight. I not, repair or replace the red/purpe lead between the fuse holder (or the circuit breakers bullet connecter on V8 models) and the main engine harness connector 5B. 1996-1998 models with MWS harnesses—Unplug the six-pin Deutsch main hamess connector and connect the test light probe to pin No. 5 (red/purple lead ofthe engine side ofthe connector. The test lamp must light not repair ‘or replace the re/purple lead between the fuse holder (or the circuit breaker’s bullet connector [V8 models]) and the six-pin Deutsch connector. ‘A, 1995 models with traditional harmesses—Reconnect the 10-pin main harness connector and gain acess tothe rear of the ignition switch on the dash (or inthe remote control box). Connect the test lamp probe tothe ignition ‘switch terminal B (red/purple lead). See 3, Figure 28. The test amp mus light fot, repair or replace the red/purple lead between the boat side ofthe main harness connector and the ignition switch. Refer to Figure 30 for pin location on the boat side of the main hamess connector. 6B. 1996-1998 models with MWS harnesses—Reconnect. the six-pin Deutsch connector and gain access to the rear of the ignition switch on the dash (or in the remote control box). Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch CHAPTER THREE terminal B (red/purple lead). See 3, Figure 28. The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the red/purple lead between the six-pin Deutsch connector and the ignition switch. 7. Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch terminal S (4, Figure 28). With the ignition switch turned tothe START position, observe the test lamp. The test lamp ‘must light. If not, replace the ignition switch, 8. Remove the cover from the remote control box and ‘connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch side of the neutral safety switch (5, Figure 28). With the ignition switch tured to the START position, observe the test lamp. ‘The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the lead between the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch, @ 10TROUBLESHOOTING 53 9. Move the test lamp probe to the solenoid side of the neutral safety switch (6, Figure 28). With the ignition switch turned to the START position, the test lamp must light. If not, make sure the shift control is still in neutral and retest. Replace the neutral safety switch if the lamp still does not light. 10. Connect the test lamp probe tothe yellow/red terminal on the starter solenoid (7, Figure 28). With the ignition switch tumed to the START position, the test lamp must light. fnot, repair or replace the yellow/red lead between the neutral safety switch and the starter solenoid (this includes the main harness connector) 11. Connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid {terminal leading to the starter motor (8, Figure 28). With the ignition switch tured to the START position, the test lamp must light. If so, proceed to Step 14. If the test lamp does not light, proceed to Step 12. 12. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive battery terminal and connect the test lamp probe tothe small black (ground) terminal of the starter solenoid (9, Figure 28). ‘The est lamp must ight. IFnot, repair or replace the ground lead between the starter solenoid and the engine block (10, Figure 28). 13, If the test lamp does not light in Step 11, but does light in Step 12, replace the starter solenoid and retest starter system operation. 14. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground, Connect the test lamp probe to the starter motor terminal 1, Figure 28). With the ignition switch tumed to the START position, the test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the cable between the starter solenoid and the starter motor. If the test lamp lights, proceed to Step 15. 15. Remove the starter (Chapter Seven) and inspect for paint or corrosion on the mounting bolts and bosses. If paint or corrosion is found, clean the mounting bolts and bosses and reinstall the starter and test starter engagement. If the starter still will not engage, remove the starter for replacement or repair. 16. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished. Tiller handle models Refer to Figure 31 for this procedure. Refer to the end. of the book for individual model and complete system ‘wiring diagrams CAUTION Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidenial starting during ail test procedures. Make sure the shifelever isin the NEUTRAL position before proceeding. @ STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (TILLER HANDLE MODELS) Key (Ignition) switch54 CHAPTER THREE 1, Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of the battery and touch the test lamp probe to metal anywhere ‘on the engine block. The test lamp must light. If the lamp ‘does not light or is dim, the battery ground cable connec- tions are loose or corroded, or there is an open circuit in the battery ground cable. Clean and tighten the connections ‘or replace the battery cable as required, 2, Connect the test lamp lead toa good engine ground and ‘connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid input terminal (1, Figure 31). The test lamp must light. Ifthe lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable connections are loose or corroded, or there is an open in the cable between the battery and the solenoid, Clean and tighten the connections or replace the battery cable as required. 3, Connect the test lamp probe to the yellowed terminal fn the starter solenoid (6, Figure 31). Tur the ignition switch to the ON (or RUN) position and depress the starter button while observing the test lamp. 4. Ifthe test lamp lights, the starter system's switching cireuits are working correctly. Proceed to Step 10. , Ifthe test lamp does not light, an open circuit is present inthe starter system’s switching circuits. 4, Proceed as follows: a. Remove the 20 amp fuse and connect the test lamp ‘probe tothe input side of the fuse holder (2, Figure 31). The testamp must ight. Ifnot, repair or replace the red lead between the starter solenoid andthe fuse holder. ’. Test the 20 amp fuse with an ohmmeter calibrated ‘onthe Rx 1 scale. The fuse must indicate continuity . Install the fuse into the fuse holder. ‘5. Gain access tothe rear ofthe ignition switch. Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch terminal B (red/purple lead). See 3, Figure 31. The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the red/purple lead between the fuse holder and the ignition switch, This includes ‘connections at the terminal block and afour-pin Amphenol connector. 6. Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch terminal A (purple lead). See 4, Figure 31. With the ignition switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position, the test lamp must light. If not, replace the ignition switch. 7. Connect the test lamp probe tothe purple lead terminal at the terminal block (5, Figure 31). With the ignition switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position, the test lamp ‘ust light. Ifnot, repair or replace the purple lead between ‘the ignition switch and the terminal block. This includes a ‘connection ata four-pin Amphenol connector. 8. Disconnect the bullet connector in the purple lead be- tween the starter button and the terminal block. The bullet ‘connector is not shown in Figure 31. With the ignition switch tured to the ON (or RUN) position, the test lamp ‘must light. If not, repair or replace the purple ead between the terminal block and the bullet connector. 9. Connect the test lamp probe tothe yellow/red terminal fn the starter solenoid (6, Figure 31). With the ignition switch turned tothe ON (or RUN) position and the starter button depressed, the test lamp must light. If not, replace the push-button starter switch and its leads as an assembly. 10, Connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid terminal leading tothe starter motor (7, Figure 31). With the ignition switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position and the starter button depressed, the test lamp mus ight. I'so, proceed to Step 13. Ifthe test lamp does no ight, proceed to Step 11 11, Connect the test lamp lead to the positive battery terminal and connect the test lamp probe tothe small black (ground) terminal ofthe starter solenoid (8, Figure 31) ‘Thettest lamp must light. Ifnot, repair orreplace the ground lead between the starter solenoid and the engine block (9, Figure 31), 12. Ifthe test lamp does not light in Step 10, but does light in Step 11, replace the starter solenoid and retest starter system operation, 13. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground. Connect the test lamp probe to the starter motor terminal (10, Figure 31). With the ignition switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position and the starter button depressed, the test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the cable between the starter solenoid and the starter motor. Ifthe test lamp lights, proceed to Step 14 14, Remove the starter (Chapter Seven) and inspect for Paint or corrosion on the mounting bolts and bosses. If Paint or corrosion is found, clean the mounting bolts and ‘bosses and reinstall the starter and test starter engagement. If the starter still will not engage, remove the starter for replacement or repair. 15. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished Push Button Starter Switch Test (Tiller Handle Models) ‘An ohmmeter is required for this procedure. Refer to the back of the manual for wiring diagrams. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2. Disconnect the starter switch yellow/red lead from the starter solenoid (6, Figure 31) and the starter switch purple lead from the bullet connector between the terminal block and the switch, 3. Connect an ohmmeter calibrated on the R x 1 scale, between the starter switch leads, The meter must read no continuity. Replace the start bution if any other reading is noted. 4. Depress the start button. The meter must read continu- ity, Replace the start button if no continuity is noted.