LEATHER ACCESSORIES SUGGESTED MATERIAL: Feversible Garment Sides Big Sur Splits or, ‘Vogue Garment Spits NOTIONS: Cotto wrapped polyester th ‘A Tandy Corporation Go, Nove Devgan) = Sorporation Co. ve pn Fort Worth, Texas No.2 Brive punch READ GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY.LEATHER ACCESSORIES PAT; K Fort Worth, Texas READ GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY. General Instructions Leather ie not manufactured a¢ a fabric causing it to be less uniform than other sewing materials, “There are many factors which cause 2 variation in the skin or hide of an animal such os age, climatic = oneftions, the food and care given it, the searon it -| ‘rae slaughtered and the sil used In tanning Because of these conditions genuine leather will Cccasionally have flan on the skins, Ths i only AL natural and does not mean the skin inferior, Be sure to examine the skin before cutting and tay ‘your pattern in such a manner to avoid any flaw Al the lengthwise grinline markings of the pattern Pleces are parallel #0 the back bone of the animal's Skin. It is not advisable to cut pattern pleees on the crosswise grain because the lesther tends to stretch, PROCEDURE: 1.Make 2 duplicete paper pattern for all parte marked “cut two" Thi is done because leather Sanat be folded. 2. Keeping in mind that a skin’s greatest strength is down the conter, you may new ley out Your pattern pieces. The parts that wll et the hardest ‘hear should be cut from the Back bone area 3. Keep the lengthwise grainline of the pattern poralel to the back bone of the animal skin. Try to Fave equal thicknesear of leather ‘on related puts (of the finished item, 4, Attaching the pattern to the skin may be done Several ways, taping the pattern & one way: mend ing tape works very well, but just about any other {pe of tape would do. Weights may also De used 10 hold the pattern down, OF course, the pattern ‘ay alto be pinned, pine are placed im the sear allowence 5. Cut with shears, being ture to ute tong, even strokes "On heavier leather you may wish to we 3 6. Before you begin sewing, there area tow adjust ‘ments you should make on your machine. Change So) the mete, sing 2 see 1 Yor ght eather Zs mr Gp mass 1s far emer igre Toe Le FA stitch regulator should be adjusted s0 there will be seven {0 ten stitches per inch. On sheer suades a many a¢ tole stitches per inch may be desired, You" should also. use a thread which has. more elasticity and strength than normal thread. Cotton ‘wrapped polyester thresd has these characteristic: land's excellent to use on leather ia 2. Seams can be hold together with paper clipe GAN mending tape (7B) or pinned in the seam allowance. Ease the leather into the machine under the "pressure Toot slowly, being careful not to Stretch the leather. Tie the threads; do not back Etitch this will weaien the Teathor 8. Curved seams should be clipped to reduce bulk (Ga. 9. Rubber cement is now applied to the seam Allowance of al seame including curved seams teal, 10, Seams should then be pounded with 9 mallet so the Seam will lie flat. Allow this to dry, then hilt the seam up lightly. it will now lie lat with fess tension and pull 11. Pressing may be done with » warm iron. Place ‘brown paper or a press cloth between leather and Iron: Do not steam (10a) lo. 2697 OO Patterns ‘SUGGESTED MATERIAL: Foversible Garment Sides ‘Big Sur Splits or, ‘Vogue Garment Splits NoTioNs: Corton wrapped polyester thread Leather Noedle (Size 11) ‘No. Drive punch ‘No. 2 Drive punch Assembly Instructions - Outside of feather cusser ns coment here ATTACHING GUSSETS. With right sides together, join gusset at large ends (1A). Cement down seams and tap with mallet (refer to General Instructions) Take both inside straps and apply cement to entire inside area. Join together and tap with mallet (5A). Punch holes as indicated on pattern (8B). Use No. 2 Drive Punch. FACING (Ousside) INNER STRAP ATTACHING FLAP FACING TO FLAP. Apply cement to back of flap where facing will be. Apply cement to wrong side of facing. Lay facing down in place and press down, Punch holes as indicated on pattern (2A), using a No. 9 drive punch, ATTACHING BAG FRONT AND BACK TO GUSSETS. With right side of leather and bbag front together, attach by Sewing together. “Join _bag back and flap to gusset. Trim inner seam allowance as close to seam as possible, Clip outer seam allowance around curves and cement down toward gusset (3A). (3a) ATTACH INNER STRAP TO GUSSET STRAP. Cut two strips 1/8" ‘wide and 14” long. These will be used to lace inner strap to gusset straps. Bring strip through two edge holes and even up lace. Bring ‘one down through next holes and one up through second hol making a Cross Stitch (6A). Outside appearance should look like illustration (6B). Inside should look like illustration (6C). GUSSET FACING. Join large ends of gussets with right sides together. Apply cement to entire backside of gusset facing. Apply coment to entire inside of gusset on bag (bag should be inside out for this step). Align gusset seams and join gusset facing to gusset (4A). This will rein, force gusset and help give the purse body. It will also cover the raw edges of seam allowance. Punch holes with a No, 2 drive punch as indicated on pattern, CROSS STITCHING ON BAG FRONT. Cut a strip 1/4" wide and 30" tong to use for lacing on bag front. Come in through top two holes from back of flap. Even up the lace, cross aver and go down into second holes, Cross on backside and come up through third holes (7A). Cross over again and go down through fourth holes Cross over on backside and come up through last holes (78), Tie Joose ends in a knot and trim edges (7C) PLACEMENT LINE FOR FACING Bag Back & Flap (cut one) SEAM LINE CUT LINE Flap Facing: CUT ONE Gusset(cut two) Bag Front (cut one) Gusset Facing: (cut two) ‘SEAM LINE SEAM LINE CUT LINE iy, Inner Strap (cut two) Printed in USA,LEATHER ACCFort Worth, Texas __ READ GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY Leather is not manufactured at a fabri eausir to be less uniform than other sewing mat ‘There are many factors which cause a voratio the skin oF hide of an animal such as age, clint conditions, the food and care gvon it, the seas ‘wat slaughtered and the skill ured In tanning. Because of these conditions genuine leather ‘ccasionally have flaws on the skins. This is + ‘tural and does not mean the skin i inferior Be sure 10 examine the skin before cutting ane Your pattern in such a manner to avoid any fl All the lengthwise grainline markings ofthe pat pieces are paraliel fo the beck bone of the anin Ekin. Itis nat advisable to cut pattern piceos on frosswise grain because the lether tends to ste PROCEDURE: 1. Make 9 duplicate paper pe sarked “cut two" Tne 1 do annat be folded, 2. Keeping in mind that a skn’s greatest streng Gown the conter, you may now ley out pateern pieces. The parte that wll get the har tear should be cut fram the Back bone area 3. Keep the lengthwise grainline of the pat Parallel to the back bone of the animal skin. Tr,SUGGESTED MATERIAL: Reversible Garment Sides Big Sur Splits or, ‘Vogue Garment Splits NOTIONS: Cotton wrapped polyester thread Leather Needle (Size 11) Bo. ‘No.9 Drive punch No.2 Drive punch BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY. Assembly Instructio: (Wrong side) Contant here a ATTACHING GUSSETS. With right sides together, join guset at = large ends (1A). Cement down sees and tap with allt eter to on General Instruction) : Step: 7 Toke both inside straps and apply camer “a Step 2: together and top with mallet (SAL, PL om pattern (5B). Use No, 2 Drive Punch. hi sac = ase) er (Ouse) f fe finer starO O oO PLACEMENT LINE FOR FACING Flap Facing: CUT ONE(cut one) Bag Front (cut one) CUT LINE(Om } 3NdD)}ESSN+) (OM yNdD) Surowvy .ossnsy(oa) (9a) ‘oF the finished ier 4, Attaching the pattern to the skin may be d ‘sveral ways, taping the pattern i one way) ri ing tape works very well but just aout any 0 type of tape would do, Weights may also be « to hold the pattern down. Of course, the pat toy also be pinned, # pins are placed in the slowanee 5. Cut with shears, being sure 10 use long, € strokes” On heavier leather you may wish to u Kite or razor of some sort. Some seamstresses fer to trace around pattern with ball point per chalk prior to cutting 6. Before you begin sewing, there area few ad ments you should make on your machine. Cha the needle, using 2 size 11 Yor lightweight leat ‘and up t0 9 ize 14 for heavier weight lesthers, Stitch regulator should be adjusted to there wil Seven 10 ten stitches per inch. On sheer tuode many a6 twelve stitches per inch may be des You" should also. use thread which hes. me elasticity and strength than normal thread. Cot ‘wrapped polyester thread har these characteris ana'is excellent to use on leather, 7, Seams can be held together with paper © (GA), mending tape (7B) oF pinned in the se allowance. Ease the leather into the machine un the” pressure Toot slowly, being careful not stretch the leather. Tle the threads; do not be Stitch tis will wooken the leather 8, Curved seams should be clipped to reduce & Gav. 8. Rubber cement is now applied to the s¢ allowance of all seams including curved se: ‘ear. 10, Soars should then be pounded with 9 mali the seam wil ie flat, Allow this to dry. then the seam Up lightly. It wil now le fat with tension and pt 11. Pressing may be done with a warm iron. Pl bbrown paper or a pres cloth between leather ¢ non, Do not steamro her The be es, ips er ck lk —[ (za) ATTACHING FLAP FACING TO FLAP. Apply cement to back of flap where facing will be. Apply cement to wrong side of facing. Lay facing down in place and press down. Punch holes as indicated on pattern (2A), using a No. 9 drive punch, ATTACHING BAG FRONT AND BACK TO GUSSETS. With right side of leather and bag front together, attach by sewing together. "Join bag bback and flap to gusset. Trim inner seam allowance as close to seam as possible. Clip ‘outer scam allowance around Turn outer seam in toward gusset curves. and cement down pag toward gusset (3A). aside (3A) GUSSET FACING. Join large ends of gussets with right sides together. Apply coment to entire backside of gusset facing. Apply cement to entire inside of gusset on bag (bag should be inside out for this step). Align gusset seams and join gusset facing to gusset (4A). This will rein force gusset and help give the purse body. It will also cover the raw edges of seam allowance. Punch holes with a No, 2 drive punch as indicated on pattern, F oursia of Ste (6B) Step 6é ATTACH INNER STRAP TO GUSSET S wide and 14" long. These will be used tc straps. Bring strip through two edge hol cone down through next holes and one making a Cross Stitch (6A). Outside ap illustration (6B). Inside should look like i CROSS STITCHING ON BAG FRONT. 30” long to use for lacing on bag front. holes from back of flap. Even up the lac into second holes. Cross on backside ar holes (7A). Cross over again and go de Cross over on backside and come up th loose ends in a knot and trim edges (7C).TRAP. Cut two strips 1/8” lace inner strap to gusset, 2 and even up lace. Bring up through second hole, earance should look like ustration (6C) Cut a strip 1/4" wide and Come in through top two 2, cross over and go down d come up through third wn through fourth holes ‘ough last holes (78). Tie —[ CUT LINE Sindy. Printed in USA,SEAM LINE Inner Strap (cut tw: —_—_—_—— eee‘SEAM LINE 0° oo