Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ClayCraft 11 2018
ClayCraft 11 2018
6
PINCH, COIL, SLAB AND THROW Issue 11 £4.99
COIL-BUILT VESSELS
P-BY-STEP
GREAT STES IDE!
PROJECT INS
JEWELLERY
PORCELAIN PENDANTS
SLAB SLIP
BUILD CASTING
HEART ETCHED
DISHES LAMP SHADE
Issue 11
ALSO INSIDE: Smoke-firing • Throwing kitchen bowls • Anglian Potters £4.99
66 6
Issue 11 £4.99
, SLA
AND THROW
by the size and shape of the space you have, seemingly unrelated areas – like builders – to
PINCH, COIL, SLAB AND B
THROWAND THROW
S
Issue 11 £4.99
PINCH, COIL
, SLAB
BUILT VE
CO SS EL
COIL-COIL-BUILT VESSELS
IL-BU
Issue 11 £4.99
ILT VESSELS
but even the tiniest of areas can be used
GREAT STEP-BY-STEP
PROJECTS
EP INSIDE!
source timber, boards, equipment and labour.
STEP-
Y-STEP BY-ST
When you’re working, it’s important that great source of studio tips, such as hanging
PENDANTS
PORCELAIN
SLAB
BUILD
PENDANTS
everything flows, and you aren’t wasting
PORCELAIN
PENDANTS
SLIP
tools from loops, to keep them within easy
PORCELAIN CASTING
SLAB
BUILD
SLABSLIP SLIP
CASTING CASTING
BUILD
time and space by having to move around reach and preserve the pointed tips on
unnecessarily. Try to position your
HEART
DISHES ETCHED
paintbrushes. The potters we visited have
LAMP SHADE
E: Smoke-firing
ETCHED
ALSO
ETCHE
SHADE
D
• Throwing kitche
Clay Craft Cover
equipment and work in a triangle, in much
e-firing • Throw • Anglian Potters
n bowlsing kitchen bowls
£4.99
• Anglian Potte
Issue 11.indd
1
Issue 11rs
Issue 11
09/01/2018
18:30 Issue 11
£4.99
all got some great ideas that you can learn
INSIDINSIDE:
ALSOALSO Smoke-firing • Throwing kitchen bowls • Anglian Potters £4.99
001 Clay Craft
Cover Issue 11.indd
1
from too.
Our cover image this month is
Catherine Lucktaylor’s ‘Wild you’re lucky enough to have a kiln, make sure
Cornwall’, from our feature on there’s adequate ventilation and that it
Tracey Benton, who organises doesn’t pose a fire risk. Shelves and storage
pop-up clay shows. See page 78
for more details. areas are vital, and consider a lockable
cupboard if you have hazardous glaze Rachel Graham, Editor
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Issue 11 ClayCraft 3
10
34 PROJECT 3: lamp shade
Using the slip-casting and water-
etching with wax resist to make a
porcelain lamp shade
50 Confessions of a novice
Our project-blogger tackles a
teapot... with two spouts!
6 News
54 PROJECT 5: smoke-firing
10 PROJECT 1: kitchen bowl Use this simple firing technique
How to throw a classic, large to create stunning patterns
kitchen bowl for mixing or serving
58 Doug’s diary
15 Material matters There’s an imminent arrival
Alan Ault of Valentine Clays on Doug Fitch’s mind this month
explains how personalised clay
bodies are made
19 Me and My Pot
Libby Hutchence shares her work 34
20 PROJECT 2: ramekins
Step-by-step guide to creating
slab-built heart-shaped dishes
54
26 Studio set-up
Linda Bloomfield describes how
her studio is arranged for an
efficient workflow
20
29 Home studio case studies
We visit four potters’ home
studios to pick up some helpful
ideas and inspirational tips
4 ClayCraft Issue 11
44
66
60 Missed an issue?
Catch up with previous issues, 75 Events
and keep them organised with Your guide to pottery and
our handy binder ceramics events right across the
country
62 Pottery Association
Spotlight 78 Emerging Potters
Tracey Parsons reports on Paul Bailey discovers more about
Anglian Potters pop-up ceramics events in North
66 PROJECT 6: porcelain
jewellery
50 Devon
80 Courses listing
Simple to make, these pendants are Fancy signing up for a class?
easy to glaze for striking results 74 Next month Find one near you in our useful
Find out what’s in store for issue 12 free listing
73 Me and My Pot
Shaun Hall shares a piece of
stunning raku
62
29
COIL-BUILT VESSELS
Issue 11 £4.99
JEWELLERY
SLAB
BUILD
SLIP
CASTING
Issue 11 ClayCraft 5
S
other topical item you’d like our readers to know about,
WINN E R!
CRAZY
er of our
The winn
first £250 Online
Ceramics voucher
is Wendy Oldroyd,
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CATS!
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Britain's shows have become the top handmadeinbritain.co.uk The exhibition will explore a range of contemporary
the UK. The events showcase the best Millward, Phil Rogers and Yo Thom.
6 ClayCraft Issue 11
Emerging artist
call for entry
If you have you ever fancied
exhibiting internationally, then
take a look at the criteria for
Ceramics Monthly’s ‘emerging
artists’ feature scheduled for its
May issue, and why not apply?
Cottages.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 7
8 ClayCraft Issue 11
● Vitamin C: Clay and Ceramic in Contemporary Art ● Edited by Phaidon Editors, with an introduction by Clare
Lilley ● Published by Phaidon ● 02 October 2017 ● Hardback £39.95 ● 520 colour illustrations ● 304 pages
● 290 x 250mm ● ISBN: 978 071487 4609
Issue 11 ClayCraft 9
3
Dribble a little water over the wall of the clay, then, with
the wheel turning at medium speed, begin to lift the wall of
2 the bowl between the fingers and thumb of the left hand,
using the right hand to steady the clay as you lift.
Open the centre of the bowl by pressing the thumb of Keep this first lift vertical, as though forming a cylinder,
the right hand into the centre, while cupping the shape and leave a thick rim at the top rather than thinning the clay
with the rest of the hand. right through from base to tip.
Support the thumb with the fingers of the left hand as
you gently press down to within 10-15mm of the wheel
head.
Widen the base with the side of the knuckles of the
right hand, to form a wide but slightly curved surface.
Run the knuckles over the surface a couple of times to
compact the clay at the base and refine the curve.
Use the left hand to keep the wall running to centre as
you form the base.
4
Keeping the thick rim at the top of the bowl, lift the wall
again in the same way. The shape should still look like a
wide cylinder at this stage.
Remember to compress the clay at the rim with the tip of
a finger after each lift.
5
Lift the wall a third time using the side
of the knuckles of the right hand on the
outside wall and the fingers of the left hand on the inside.
Begin to curve the wall outward with this lift, closing in
slightly again as you reach the rim. Again, maintain the
thick rim. The bowl should now be the approximate shape
you want it to be, with only refining details left to complete
the shape. .
Issue 11 ClayCraft 11
6
Compress the clay at the rim with the pads of the
fingertips, to refine the shape for the final time.
1
Dampen the surface of the wheel head then position
your bowl rim down and tap to centre as described
in issue 9 - Teapot, or go to claycraft.co.uk – ‘How to’
guide.
Secure the centred bowl with wads of soft clay if it
makes you feel more secure about it staying in place.
Begin by flattening the base of the bowl with the
turning tool, working from centre to outside edge and
with the wheel turning at a slow to medium speed.
TIP: Kitchen bowls should have a wide base for
practicality.
When the base is flat, bevel the outside edge of the
7 foot slightly to neaten it so that you can develop the
final shape more clearly later.
Before the final shaping, use a rib to remove excess clay
from the outside base and the wheel head. Wipe away
excess slurry from the batt and use the tip of the rib to
create a slight undercut in the base. This will visually
‘lift’ the bowl.
Gently wipe out excess slurry from the inside of the
bowl with a sponge. Using a rib (wood or metal) with a
curved side, carefully round out the shape on the inside
of the bowl to form a pleasing curve. This action will
also remove excess slurry and compact the clay for a
good surface (important for domestic ware).
The bowl is now essentially finished. Carefully lift the
batt off the wheel head then wire off the underside of
the bowl. Leave the bowl to firm up until you can handle
it without distorting the shape, then carefully turn it
over for the base to firm up a little, ready for trimming.
12 ClayCraft Issue 11
4
When happy with the depth of the foot and the surface
2 you’ve trimmed, cut a shallow bevel on the inside of the
foot, at the same time scoring a light line at the edge of
Mark a broad foot with the tip of the turning tool, 15- the wall in the base to complete this part of the trimming
20mm from the outside edge of the base, as shown. process.
5
Next, turn an undercut on the outer edge of the foot.
This will give a good line to glaze to later, when the bowl
3 has been bisque-fired.
6
Trim the wall of the bowl down from
the undercut until the thickness of the
wall is the same throughout, the shape
pleases you, and the surface is smooth
and even.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 13 .
010-14 Project 1 Throwing Kitchen Bowls Issue 11.indd 13 09/01/2018 18:39
SKILL SCHOOL
PROJECT
ONE
7 9
When happy with the shape of the bowl, score a couple
of lines 15-20mm from the rim of the bowl, as shown, Make any more small
adjustments to the shape of
using the fine tip of the turning tool. This acts as a
the foot you feel necessary
decorative detail for the glaze to break over when fired
to complete the bowl, then
later, but is not an essential detail if you prefer to leave
turn it the right way up and
it out.
allow it to dry completely
before bisque-firing.
9
After bisque-firing, decorate the bowl with your chosen
glaze – here a simple tin white stoneware glaze has been
used for multi-purpose use, but you could make it much
more colourful if you choose.
14 ClayCraft Issue 11
MATERIAL MATTERS
The complexity of clay (L to whereby customers can discuss
recipes and how they R) Red their requirements. A specialised
are developed earthenware, recipe can then be developed, with
In the last issue, we examined raw stoneware, the aim of producing a product as
materials and how they form the white close to their request as possible.
earthenware,
basic building blocks when porcelain.
In simple terms, making a clay
developing a clay recipe. recipe is like baking a cake, which
Following on from this, there are also requires lots of different
Alan Ault of Valentine numerous formulations of ingredients to achieve, for
Clays explains recipe different clay body recipes example, either a chocolate cake or
formulation currently in the market place or a Victoria sponge. With a clay
being used by studio potters. recipe, it’s obviously far more
Generally, they have been complex and takes into account
How to develop a developed for a specific purpose, the chemical compositions of
clay body recipe such as a particular firing several different types of raw
Developing a clay body is more temperature, the plasticity materials – some of which were
complex that it initially sounds. required, or the size of the object discussed in the last issue – which
There is often the preconception that needs to be made. All of these are then mixed together.
that clay is literally just dug out of factors have to be looked at and
the ground and sold, ready to use. evaluated, to formulate the best Typical clay recipe
With most clay bodies this isn’t recipe for that particular use. examples include:
the case, and a great deal of Developing your own clay body White earthenware
chemical research and technical is often very complex and requires ● 35% China clay
development is involved in a lot of technical knowledge and ● 15% Ball clay
constructing the right type of clay testing, which is why companies ● 35% Flint
for particular uses. such as ourselves offer a service ● 15% Feldspar .
Issue 11 ClayCraft 15
Stoneware
● 35% Fireclay 1 2
● 35% Ball clay
● 20% China clay (kaolin)
● 5% Feldspar
● 5% Quartz
Porcelain
● 50% China Clay (kaolin)
● 25% Silica (quartz)
● 23% Feldspar
● 2% Bentonite
Bone China 3 4
● 50% Bone ash
● 25% China clay (kaolin)
● 25% China stone
Wet processing
This is the process when the clay
recipe ingredients are mixed
together with water in a blunger
to create a slip, which is then
passed through sieves and/or
magnets. It is then filter-pressed
(extracting the water) and pugged
(blended and de-aired) before it
can be used. This process is Wet processing: Stage 2 - a
classed as sliphouse manufacture. filter press.
16 ClayCraft Issue 11
Issue 11 ClayCraft 17
Libbi Hutchence
Issue 11 ClayCraft 19
20 ClayCraft Issue 11
1
Roll a large slab of clay
about 5mm thick (3-4mm if
using porcelain) on a sheet of
plastic using your roller guides
to ensure the clay is evenly thick.
Place the small heart template
centrally on the width of the slab,
then position the larger cutter around it, so that it sits in
the centre. Check the positioning is right, then lift away
the cutter and roll the template into the clay until it’s flush
with the surface.
2 4
Using a straight edge, carefully cut two 5-6cm strips
from the remaining slab of clay. Each strip needs to be
longer than the length of one side of the heart. Bevel the
end of each strip, using a ruler as a guide.
5 6
Place the first strip into position, and use a kidney Using a serrated kidney, score the heart’s base, and the
to mark the point at which it meets the centre of bottom edges and bevelled ends of the strips.
the top of the heart. Cut the surplus clay away at an
angle to create a bevel, as shown. Repeat with the
second strip.
22 ClayCraft Issue 11
9 11
Apply a little slip to Use a damp sponge to smooth the surface and
the inside of the base of soften any sharp edges. Take care not to over-wet the
the strips, and blend a clay. Make as many ramekins as you need, then allow
coil of soft clay in, using them to dry thoroughly before bisque-firing.
a wooden modelling
tool.
10
Using a slightly rounded corner of a rib – you can
use an old credit card and make your own, to give you
the shape you need – clean up the inside of the heart,
compressing the joint as you go.
On the outside, blend the clay down over the joint with
the base, then use a straight-edged metal rib to compress
the join and remove any excess clay. Hold it vertically and
draw it gently along the walls. Try not to distort the shape
as you go.
12
Apply red underglaze to the indented heart and
leave to dry completely before applying transparent
glaze. Allow the glaze to dry, then fire to the clay’s
recommended temperature.
Fired ramekins: Porcelain clay with underglaze
decoration and transparent glaze, fired to 1240°C in an
electric kiln.
24 ClayCraft Issue 11
S
etting up a pottery studio is
remarkably similar to
designing your kitchen
layout. You’ll need water,
power, light and heating, all arranged
within easy reach for an efficient flow
of work.
The main pieces of equipment in most
pottery studios are the wheel and the
kiln. Electric wheels need power near
by, and lighting from a window or
overhead electric lights. Electric kilns
can be run on a single-phase supply,
used in most residential properties, but Linda Bloomfield’s studio, with
industrial kilns are often run on a glass-reinforced plastic roof
and blinds on the ceiling.
three-phase electric power. Some (Photo: Henry Bloomfield)
single-phase kilns can use a normal
domestic plug, while others will require
an independent heavy-duty (50Amp) with a fused switch. Check the power of accompanying documentation, so
feed – like those used for electric requirements for your kiln with your always check with someone
cookers – which will need to be supplier, and the information will also knowledgeable before you install your
installed by a qualified electrician, be in the manual. One downside to kiln, or you could run into problems.
wiring the kiln directly into the power, buying secondhand kilns can be a lack The kiln will also need ventilation, or
26 ClayCraft Issue 11
CASE STUDY 1
Anastasia Hille
“My mother was a craft teacher, and I
remember doing a bit of pottery with
her in my early days. She died a few
years ago, but I noticed with my
painting, and anything else I was
doing, that when I was making things,
I felt close to her.
“When we first moved here, the kids
and I found some local clay. We
collected it; it was so white and perfect.
We brought it home, cleaned it up and
didn’t really know what to do with it
next. Then I enrolled in a pottery class
that came up locally, and I felt like I’d
done it before. Whether that stems from
doing it when I was little or not, I don’t
know. I took our little piece of clay into
Anastasia's wheel is in an outdoor brick alcove, which
class, and we eventually fired it. It
is protected by a sheet of heavy plastic in the winter.
cracked a bit, but it worked! .
OWN STUDIO
One of the most exciting things about the journey
to becoming a potter, whether it’s a hobby or a
career, is setting up your studio. Having your own
space and equipment frees you up to work when
you want, how you want. You are – more or less –
in control of the layout, depending on the size and
shape of the space available. You can choose when
and how to fire your kiln, and if you want to glaze in
the middle of the night, you can!
Issue 11 ClayCraft 29
CASE STUDY 3
Nikita Frew
“A few years ago I saw a wonderful
quirky teapot and wanted to make one,
but I didn’t know where to start. In
2013 I was working at a pub, and my old
art teacher came in. We got chatting,
and he told me just to come in and work
at the back of one of his classes.
“For a year, I spent a couple of hours
a week making the teapot; then I
started making outside lanterns –
Issue 11 ClayCraft 31
Issue 11 ClayCraft 33
This project uses a two-part mould taken from a vase and converted into a lamp
shade. We’ve used heart decorations, which will look lovely with the porcelain used
here, but you can choose anything you like
34 ClayCraft Issue 11
Issue 11 ClayCraft 35
5 7
Join the lines with a line of masking tape, run along Build up the clay around the model to the halfway mark.
the half-way point of the sides, as shown. If your model Make sure to level it periodically, and be careful not to
is tapered, like ours, you’ll need to support the narrow create undercuts at the edge of the model itself. It can be
end on a block of clay, to make the whole thing level. Use tricky to work around the spare, but this must be divided
a ruler to find the height of the top edge of the masking in the same way – take your time to make sure it is neat
tape, then check it’s the same at each end. and level. Make sure the clay is forming a good seal with
Pencil an arrow on the tape to show which is the top the edge of the model, to prevent plaster from dribbling
edge – it can be easy to confuse which edge of the tape is down between the two – use a wooden modelling tool to
correct. help with this.
36 ClayCraft Issue 11
15 17
When all the mixture is has been poured, agitate Turn the whole thing over and reposition the mould on
the surface with a hand to release trapped air bubbles. the board. Carefully lift the base slab clay off the model,
Alternatively, if the mould isn’t too heavy, you can slightly which should remain in place in the plaster.
lift the board it’s on and tap it back onto the work surface Wipe over the surface of the model to remove traces of
several times – this is generally easier with smaller moulds. clay and remove the tape.
16
As the plaster sets it will give 18
off heat – this is normal, so don’t
panic. Once set (this will only
take five minutes, 10 at most), Make 4-6 ‘natches’ in the plaster by rotating the end of
carefully remove the cottle boards a metal tool like an old knife or melon scoop to form little
and surform any sharp edges wells. These will locate the second half of the cast and hold
around the plaster. the two parts together properly when casting.
38 ClayCraft Issue 11
Mould makers’ 21
19 size or soft soap:
available from your Remove the cottle boards
Soap size the surface pottery supplier an and surform all sharp edges
of the plaster then wipe d around the plaster.
usually comes in a
the size back with a solidified or thick Very carefully separate the two
damp sponge. Repeat form halves of the mould (see tip for
and needs diluting
the process at least twice with stuck moulds).
boiling water, 50:5
more, and up to seven 0
soap to water
times, to prevent the two
halves of the mould from
sticking together.
20
22
Remove the spare and the model then
carefully wipe away any clay residue from the mould with a
damp cloth.
Fit the two halves together and put the mould
somewhere warm to dry out completely before using – this
can take quite a long time depending on the warmth of the
Build the cottle around the model again in the same
drying area – at least a week, but often longer. The finished
way as before and again, seal any possible escape
image shows the mould held together with sections of
routes for plaster with thin coils of clay.
inner tube from a bicycle – you’ll need something similar to
Cast the second half with the same weight of plaster
hold the mould together when slip casting.
that you used for the first half.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 39
1
Stir the casting slip thoroughly using a wooden spoon.
It will be quite thick to begin with, but will become more
fluid as you stir. It’s ready when it looks lump-free and runs
very freely from the spoon. The longer you mix, the better.
Pour some slip from the casting bucket through the sieve
into a jug.
40 ClayCraft Issue 11
3 5
Cut a hole in the base to allow for the light fitting – the
size will depend on the fitting, but remember to allow for
clay shrinkage; the hole will need to be larger than the
actual fitting. If you make it too big there are devices you
can buy from electrical stores to overcome this – they
adjust for different light openings.
Now allow the shade to dry out completely before
working on it again.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 41
8
Sponge over the seams with a damp sponge to ensure
the lamp shade is smooth all over. The water won’t affect
the surface unless you really saturate it, in which case Paint the design with wax emulsion and a fine brush,
simply allow it to dry out again before continuing. taking care to stay within the drawn lines as far as possible.
Place the cast on a board and allow it to dry out Remember – where you apply the wax will stay in relief,
completely. while unwaxed areas will be reduced when water etched.
42 ClayCraft Issue 11
44 ClayCraft Issue 11
1 Smudge the
overlap with your
fingers to blend
Begin by rolling out a large the two pieces
slab of clay to 5mm. Smooth the
surface with a rib to compress together, then
the clay. use a soft rubber
kidney to make
sure the clay is
filling the mould,
and to refine the
2 join. Use a large
kidney to smooth
over the whole
interior of the
mould.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 45 .
044-49 Project 4 Coiled Vessel.indd 45 09/01/2018 18:49
SKILL SCHOOL
PROJECT
FOUR
5 8
Carefully remove the excess clay at the rim by lying the Roll a thick coil of clay on a
side of a wooden batten flat on the edge of the mould, sheet of plastic and flatten it
drawing it towards your body in several stages as you with the palm of your hand into
work around the edge until all the clay is removed. a curve, as shown in previous
issues of ClayCraft (also available
on the ‘How to’ pages at:
claycraft.co.uk) to form a long
6 strip 5mm thick, to match the thickness of the clay in the
base section, and approximately 5cm wide.
7
Turn the clay out of the
mould, and place it upside-
down on a batt. Roll a thin coil
of soft clay and press it along
the join, as shown. Use a kidney
to blend and smooth the joint.
46 ClayCraft Issue 11
10 12
14
11
Reinforce the join on the inside of the pot with a thin
coil of soft clay. Blend it in with your finger or a wooden Repeat with a third, even smaller coil, and use a paddle
tool. to help form the desired curve to the outside of the pot. .
Issue 11 ClayCraft 47
15
Reinforce the join with a thin coil of soft clay, smooth
with a kidney and use the hair-dryer to firm up the
pot ready for the last coil. Surform the rim, to even it out,
then use a Lucy tool to smooth it.
16
18
Leave the pot to dry to leather-hard, then apply
three layers of slip to the surface of the pot with a
mop brush, allowing each coat to dry in between
applications. You can use a hair-dryer to speed this
up, but be careful to apply the heat evenly. When
the final coat is nearly leather-hard, you can start to
burnish.
The last coil will form the top opening of the pot, so roll
it into a tighter circle than the previous coils. Attach it in
the same way as the other coils, angling it in to continue
the overall shape and proportion of the pot. You can make
it a plain round opening, or flatten the sides slightly after
it’s in position, to give an attractive and interesting oval
shape.
48 ClayCraft Issue 11
I t is with extreme
excitement and more
than a little smugness
that I make the following
announcement: DUN DUN
DUUUUN – I now have a
potter’s wheel! It’s a very lovely
Shimpo Whisper T, and how
nice of Shimpo to put a T for
Tracey at the end of its name.
If, like me, you’ve been
watching auction sites for
months with an ever-sinking
heart, you’ll know that anyone
selling a potter’s wheel is
seriously in the money, even if
it’s decades old, 99% rust,
powered by a kick-wheel that’s
52 ClayCraft Issue 11
Issue 11 ClayCraft 53
PROJECT
FIVE The unpredictability of smoke firing is exciting,
with the results always coming as a surprise
54 ClayCraft Issue 11
COLOURANTS
Examples of things that can be added to the firing
Compounds
■ Copper carbonate (used here): greens, blues,
shades of reds (with salt added)
■ Cobalt carbonate: blues
■ Steel wool: blues, greys, pinks
Natural
2 ■ Banana peel: greens, greys
■ Seaweed: browns, reds, oranges, yellows
Carefully place the pot into ■ Horse/cow manure: various
the bin and sprinkle several ■ Coffee grounds: greens, browns, blues
spoonfuls of copper carbonate ■ Leaves: browns, greens
around it (or any other
colourant). Sprinkle some rock
salt into the copper mixture
but make sure it doesn’t touch
the actual body of the pot to increase the
possibility of pinks (not guaranteed though – it’s a bit
hit and miss).
4
3 Add more colourant, and top with a final layer of
shavings.
Add a ring of loosely-twisted newspaper and pour in
more shavings, until the pot is nearly covered. Leave some
of the newspaper exposed, you’ll need to light it.
Adding different types of wood shavings (hard and
soft woods) can have exciting results, as can fine sawdust
alternated with larger shavings. You can also pack the
organic materials listed above if you want to at this stage.
.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 55
7
After 24 hours the shavings should
have burned away, leaving the pot
5 sitting on a bed of ash. Be careful,
the pot might still be hot. Carefully
Light the newspaper, and allow remove the pot, and tip any ash out
to burn until the top layer of the of the inside.
shavings is alight, then put the lid
on, leaving a gap at one side to
allow the smoke to escape.
Put the lid on completely when you are sure
the sawdust is smouldering fully.
8
When cool, wipe away any excess
sawdust with a fine cloth, then apply
a layer or two of wax polish to bring
out the colours. Oddly, you can use
a soft pan scourer to buff up the
surface before a final polish, again, with a soft cloth.
6
Don’t be tempted to peek!
56 ClayCraft Issue 11
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Doug Fitch
DIARY
C hristmas will have long
passed by the time this
edition of ClayCraft hits
the shelves, but there is still a
The new
workshop roof
in the snow.
(Photo: Hannah
McAndrew)
week to go here at the time of
writing.
We have just sent our last batch
of Christmas orders out via the
courier this morning, and Hannah
has been busy cutting-out
tree-shaped clay decorations, to
send to friends and family. We
always say we’ll start these
decorations earlier, but never
manage to and the panic to get
them made and fired and in the
post, has become a seasonal
tradition. baby, but they need to be drying London called The New
Although Christmas is looming, ready for firing and dispatch Craftsman Gallery. This
our work is far from done. We still between Christmas and New Year, Christmas they asked me to make
have pots to make for a so I must force myself to get them a wassail pot for the centrepiece of
slipware exhibition in finished. one of their displays. These
Tokyo that opens in the The gallery owner wanted wassail pots are really complicated
early spring. I’m to sell my press-moulded to make, as the lid is covered in
struggling to find the square dishes. He’s had small, modelled birds, while the
motivation to do it; I them before, and they pot beneath has numerous handles,
just want to settle have proved popular in so, when raw, there’s no good pace
down with Hannah Japan, particularly the to grip them. They are difficult at
and prepare for the new ones with the slip-trailed every stage, but particularly when
bird motif. I now have an they’re dipped into the white slip.
exclusivity agreement with If the birds aren’t well enough
Goldmark Gallery for all of my attached, or tough enough, they
pressed wares, so, unfortunately, I fall off, so the paint-stripper gun
Bird won’t be able to send any. and gas torch are at the ready…
dishes. 26cm Instead, I have been making The first wassail pot sold very
diameter. squared dishes on the wheel. I’m quickly, so they asked me to make
(Photo: Shannon using a method whereby a slither another. I got a bit carried away
Tofts)
of clay is removed from either side with modelling the birds on the
of the pot, and then the sides are new one, and it just kept growing
pushed in with a board and and growing. It survived the
re-joined to the base. It’s a new challenge of slipping, but it was
technique for me and, as I am an immensely frustrating when I
impatient maker, I enjoy its unpacked the kiln earlier this week
immediacy. I have to send and discovered that the glaze
Making a conventional round dishes too, like inside the lid had run and stuck it
squared dish
on the wheel. the ones in the picture, so I’ve to the shelf, causing a hairline
(Photo: Hannah been throwing a stack of those. crack as it cooled and contracted.
McAndrew) We supply a gallery in Mayfair, Ceramics can be so unforgiving
58 ClayCraft Issue 11
ClayCraft
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3 Texturing slabs
Read about
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60 ClayCraft Issue 11
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NORFOLK’S LEADING
S
W HEEL
MAI SUPPLIER OF
NTEN
ANC
LS E POTTER’S MATERIALS,
TOO
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
MAT
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Unit 13, Alby Craft Ctr, Cromer Rd, Erpingham,
Norwich, Norfolk, NR11 7QE
07947 880163
56 High Street Burton Latimer Kettering Northants NN15 5LB
ANGLIAN POTTERS
– 35 years and still on the up
Tracey Parsons reports on this large and friendly association
Private views Newsletter movement, and has been the venue for an
If you’d like to be added to the A print newsletter is sent to Anglian Potters show for over 20 years.
Anglian Potters mailing list for members quarterly, and archives New for 2017 was an exhibition at the
an invitation to Private Views, can be found on the website. With Undercroft in Norwich. This is a very
see the link at the bottom of the plenty of pictures and 'how to' info, large space in the centre of Norwich, at
Exhibitions page on the website. as well as reports of Anglian Potters the top of the market square, and is
events, this is a really good read.
dedicated to arts events. The first
Members and Selected Members
Though they’re not necessarily Clay dumps
exhibition was a great success, and 2018’s
all professional, selected A low-cost source of clay for show will be open from March 16th to
members are all skilled ceramic members via three clay stores April 1st.
practitioners approved by a (known as ‘clay dumps’) with clay People tend to remark on the overall
selection committee that meets from Valentine Clays: one near quality, and the enormous range at the
just once a year. However, not Ipswich; one near St Neots; and one shows, says Ian Vance. There’s everything
all professional members near Norwich. from sculpture, to functional ware, to
choose to go down this route. studio pottery. You can see him talk about
As the website states: ‘you have Anglian Potters online this in more detail, and get a sneaky look
only to visit one of our open anglianpotters.org.uk at some members’ work via
exhibitions to see that high Facebook publicity page:
anglianpotters.org.uk/
quality work is produced by @AnglianPotters
everyone’. Facebook group for discussions:
anglianpottersvideo.asp, in a short
See work by AP members on the groups/AnglianPotters video filmed by local Cambridge TV
‘Members Showcase’ pages on Twitter: @AnglianPotters channel ‘That’s Cambridge’, at last year's
the website. Instagram: (anglianpotters) All Saints exhibition.
Groups of members also participate in
other shows with the organisation’s
come in for one or two days to take a turn. support. There’s RHS Hyde Hall for three
Work is displayed and replenished from days over the late May Bank Holiday
stock when items have been sold, and weekend, and a regular presence at
good care is taken of the pieces, with a Ickworth Wood Fair: the various displays
system for checking pots both in and out. and demonstrations – including raku
Each year, August sees the exhibition at firing – are very popular. In 2018, they
Cambridge’s Emmanuel College Old will again be providing support to the
Library (11th to 26th). The entrance to ‘Innovations in Ceramic Art’ show in
the college is right opposite John Lewis, Cambridge in early March. Members
making it perfect for drawing in the assist both the organisers and the potters
public. Across town, from November 10th showing their work. A number of
to December 9th, the Christmas selling members will be showing their work as
exhibition runs at All Saints’ Church on individuals, and a group working together
Jesus Lane. This is a famous building to show off Anglian Potters. With all of
decorated by the Arts and Crafts this going for them, why wouldn’t they!
66 ClayCraft Issue 11
WELLERY – NECKLACES
Jewellery can be really good fun to make, and it’s always great to create
something unique and personal, but you can guarantee that as soon as your
friends see these necklaces they’ll want you to make one for them too!
.
Issue 11 ClayCraft 67
3
1
Using a ruler cut some of the larger discs into ½ or ¾
moon shapes – a little larger than half is visually a more
Roll a large slab of porcelain on a piece of cotton balanced shape, but this is your choice.
sheet, using roller guides 2-4mm thick.
Roll the clay thicker if you want the jewellery to look
chunkier.
Remember to turn the clay regularly to ensure it rolls
evenly.
4
Cut hanging holes in the corners
of one or two of the shapes – or
centrally for smaller pendants.
Leave the remaining sections
without holes, or cut out some for
2 purely decorative purposes – in the
centre or at the bottom of a shape,
for example.
Using cookie cutters in different sizes cut out a range
of shapes from small to large – using all of the clay
from the slab that is possible.
Cut around your foam templates to make irregular
or unusual shapes.
68 ClayCraft Issue 11
9 11
12
Neaten up the joins, both front and back, with a
wooden tool, removing all excess slip in the process.
Try to keep the shape as flat as possible, but don’t
worry if the edges look a bit messy, they can be fettled
later to neaten them up for a better finish.
13
10 Thread the tube back onto the BBQ stick or a short
length of dowelling and suspend the shape between
Apply some slip to the scored edges of the tube and blocks of wood or similar to dry thoroughly in a hanging
the corresponding areas on the cut shape. position.
70 ClayCraft Issue 11
20
If you prefer, paint the glazes in selected areas rather
than dipping. This does save wasting the glaze, but be 23
sure to apply the recommended number of coats for best
results. You can fire your jewellery items several more times if
you choose. After the initial glaze firing, another special
Scrape away all glaze effect glaze was applied to the pieces shown here, fired
from the backs of the on at 999°C.
jewellery shapes. You could Even more effects could be created with lustres or
have waxed the backs enamels, but bear in mind it can get costly to fire the
before glazing, but I prefer work so many times. However, it’s great fun waiting to
this method because you see what comes out of the kiln, and the possibilities are
still have to clean up even a endless, so enjoy being creative and trying interesting
waxed surface. combinations.
Use the tip of a pin or
pointed knife to remove
excess glaze from the
holes in the shapes – failure
to do this could result in
glaze running through and
21 sticking to the kiln shelf in
firing.
23
The finished necklaces have been fitted with silver
neck bands and cord as appropriate to suit the
shapes. Silver beads have been added, but you could
make your own, using the technique for the tubes, if
you prefer.
22
Finally, wipe away all traces of glaze from the
undersides of the shapes with a damp sponge. Include the
edges and pay particular attention to the holes.
When dry, fire the shapes as you did when bisque-firing,
to your clay and glazes’ recommended temperature. The
pieces shown here were fired to 1240° in an electric kiln
with a 15-minute soak at the end of the firing.
The shapes were also fired on a thin layer of silica sand,
but if you use this you must make sure the sand doesn’t
come into contact with the glaze because it’ll stick to
it. You could use a fine dusting of alumina instead, but
the same applies regarding it sticking to the glaze, so be
careful.
72 ClayCraft Issue 11
Shaun Hall
Issue 11 ClayCraft 73
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I
n North Devon there are trade.
many small craft shows and So Tracey now runs a series of pop-up
the odd larger event at events, including Vintage & Handmade,
Christmas, but no big, Artisan Market and the hugely successful
curated event, and certainly nothing that Clay: A Festival of Ceramics.
invites artists and makers from slightly Since the inaugural ceramics event last
further afield to showcase their work and year, she has been overwhelmed by the
bring a fresh mix to the area. There was positive response from both visitors and
nothing that focused specifically on exhibitors. There was an appetite for
ceramics, which is a shame for an area well-curated, substantial events in the
whose history is steeped in the pottery area. Clay: A Festival of Ceramics returns
82 ClayCraft Issue 11