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Biqnog “we Buiyess wes pue U1) Buynedn yare J0q Uo!ss0, 21998 19 Ide0x0 |1y edAL, suoneaiioods yee wawooeyda1 ue jexowas - (s}9pou 1.9) s8U1400q pu 5188 119 Woniduseop jesoua5, “ Aiquisssees pue Buries Suds ‘enowes - ssn uc pe seg WoL c * (s18pow 19 10U) ; ~ auoweoe}das _juawa2e}des pus jerowis -s1yeysontigy “pve Buns eros - ssequosge y20us gm “* (S1=pOW 1.9 10U) 1usWi998)d81 ee “= (s}apow 49 104) wuawedeydas ue uonaedsu! ‘jenowies - s1ui0F As!90)0n 1ue\su0D _Pu® ferowes-sBulsesq pur syeys jaa ieey og Yemauas 1895 Yo - (S1apoW 45) soqni apy 1 ~ (Si9poW 19 10U) wwaweredas gs ~~" qwawane|das ue fenows - wie jeuoSeip - uo!suadsns seo ue rexoues = (s}opoU! 1) Sogn pe yous aay qwuowsoeidss pue y= 18904 10}, Feaows, « (s}@pows 1.9) Bulsds s92},enbe s294y Iwexa - (s}9POW 19) s9qm pue syeys aixy S$3J€YsaAup pue shuleeq ‘sjaaym ‘uoisuedsns aeoy Chapter 8/R juspension, wheels, bearings and driveshafts 107 Torque wrench settings: Whee! bolts = : Socket head cap screws for drive flanges .. Wheel shaft nuts (double jointed driveshafts) | Spring plate bolts (double jointed driveshafts) Diagonal arm socket head pivot screw : Shock absorber upper and lower bolts Rear wheel bearing cover bolts = ‘Axle tube retainer nuts (swing axle)... Axle shaft nut (swing axle) F ‘Axle tube/spring plate bolts and nuts (swing axle) 1 General description All the models covered by this manual, except the GT Beetle, have diagonal arm torsion bar suspension with double jointed driveshafts. The GT Beetle also has torsion ber suspen- sion, but the driveshafts (axle shafts) are jointed only at their inner ends, and run inside ri This may not be easily understandable to the layman so Perhaps a little more explanation is necessary. Refer to 3nd gearbox as a unit are fixed to the frame crost- tube with bonded rubber mountings and attached to the body at the rear with a carrier frame, On all except GT models, the driving torque is taken from the differential flanges to the wheels by short shafts having constant velocity joints at each end which provides for the {angular motion of the hub in respect to the transmission casing and, since the CV joints work on splines, makes allowance for the variation in length of the driveshaft requirement. ‘The wheels are carried on stub axles mounted on the semi- trailing arm (diagonal arm) which is able to pivot about a bearing of ‘Silentbloc’ bushes mounted in the end of the diagonal arm and turning about a fitted bolt held in a bracket attached to the ccrosstube. This determines the radius of movement of the wheel hub in the vertical plane. ‘On GT models, the inner ends of the driveshafts are located in the transmission casing in spade type universal joints. Each axle shaft runs in a tube, the outer end of which is attached to the rear suspension plate. The outer end of the tube also carries the bearing. It can be seen therefore that the shaft and wheel form a rigid unit, pivoted at the inner end. This is called the swinging axle type of ‘The axle tubes are oil filled from the transmission casing and this provides lubrication for the outer wheel bearing. Oil is retained at the outer end by a conventional seal on the shaft ‘and at the inner end by a heavy duty flexible boot which shrouds the axle tube retainer plate. The lateral location of each axle is all carried at the inner end by the axle tube 1 plate. It can be seen that the shaft outer bearing and tube ‘are all locked together so that the side thrust is therefore carried by the inner pivoting end of the tube. The spade end of the ‘axle shaft in fact floats in the side gear. The side gear lateral location is by a thrust ring and circlip. On all the models, the actual spring force is supplied by the trailing link (spring plate) and the torsion bar. The torsion bar is hheld firmly at its inner end being splined into a fixed bush. The outer end is splined into the spring plate which has a boss ‘mounted in rubber bushes. The rubber bushes are held to the end of the crosstube by a cover plate. Thus if the spring plate is moved in a vertical plane about the torsion arm it will twist the torsion arm which will in turn tend to bring the spring plate back to its original position. In fact the torsion arm is stressed in such 9 way initially that when the spring plate is bolted to the diagonal arm there is sufficient force exerted by the torsion arm to support the weight of the car and passengers and still have sufficient power to deal with the axle movement due to uneven- ‘ness in the road surface. This suspension arrangement gives a slight variation in the Is ft kgm 87 1094 1210 13 25 35 253 35 80 n 37 12 50 7 43 6 14 2 217 30 2 10 ‘camber angle of the rear wheels which assists the road holding Properties. ‘The twin leaf spring plate shown in Fig. 8.1 has now beon replaced by a singl fof stronger design. 2. Driveshatts - removal and replacement (not GT models) 1 The vehicle should be placed over a pit or on a ramp, If it Proposed only to remove the driveshaft then there is no need to Jack the wheels up. 2. The constant velocity joints are each held by six 8 m special screws. (XZN sorewa). To reriove these a special tool is required. ‘These are manufactured by "HAZET" which is @ German firm ‘obtainable through some VW agents (VW part number 990-8Lg). It is possible to remove the screws with a hexagonal allen Key if itis a snug fit. We have done this many times BUT be ‘careful. The bolts are tight (25 Ib ft/3.5 mkg) and if you break the inner serrations with the key there is a long hard time ahead. Remove the bolts and lock plates (photo). Be sure that all grease ‘and dirt has been removed before starting, wipe the Joints clean ‘again and remove the shaft bodily (photo). If you are not going to replace the joints it is as well to wrap ‘the CV joint on the shaft in a clean potythene bag. 3 Constant velocity joints - removal, inspection and replece- ‘ment (not GT models) 1. If the constant velocity joint hes noticeeble wear it must be replaced as an assembly. It is not possible to obtain individual parts for it. If the protective boot has split, and it is suspected that dirt has entered the joint, then it is possible to dismantle the Joint, clean it, and repack it with fresh grease before fitting a new boot. 2 Temove the driveshaft as described in the previous Section. 3 It is not necessary to remove the rubber boot unless it is faulty. Simply tap off the metal cover from the joint which is a press fit. Before going any further clean off the face of the joint ‘and note any forge marks on each of the components or any other features which will enable you to ensure they all face the same way again on reassembly. If none is apparent scratch some ‘marks of your own. 4 Remove the circlip from the end of the shaft. If the joint is ‘now supported by vice jaws the shaft can be tapped out. Recover the concave washer from behind the joint on the shaft. 5 Flush the joint out thoroughly, let it dry and then repack it with approximately 60 grams of Castrol MS3 Grasse, working it ‘wall in from both sides. 6 If the inner cage of the joint is dismantled or falls apart it ‘must be correctly reassembled. First fit the splined hub inside ‘the ball cage - it will only go in if two grooves are lined up (photo). 7 Then press the bolls into the cage. They should be snap fit unless the cage is worn badly (photo). 8 Place the ball and hub assembly into the outer cage so that the ‘chamfered edge of the hub splines will be in a position against the shaft shoulder when the joint is eventually replaced on the shaft (photo). This means that it has to be the right way round in the outer cage because the outer cage goes on so that the 109 Jadweg yequorsio, be eld buds et ysnq uodans ze ore/d soueroy 12 yeyseg 02 weusory 6 ‘aq ony gL soueros ogni apxy £1 wauey 91 ois auing gt (1 295} (ope Buys) 200g 15 01 poriy susuodwes uomuedens pu ijeys o1xe H9Y “7-881 2U!0f exp orU0 496q ied soujeres 1009 ap Budde Z1°e Ho s8uIe19: Burzeeq au GuIyeL GG» —_—st/0q J8UIELas BuLIeaq aun BUIACWOL yeys oy 40 pus oun sn0 dyou amp Buroeig OL LE 1yeys oyr uo 1UIOf ayp SUNDRY OLE 1yeys anup 1vones sano out ‘U1 Uo J0UseM aABUOD ay BUNTY GE _—OIU! @BeD puE Sieg ‘any eYA BURN SE 9629 u! uonas _yeys jeayr aug jo a6uey on ny Bur0e/d ‘wutof Asyo0}en 1uEsu0D gE Aa vojty ve wos Aewe bus aap aun SuPyeL G22 ‘Yawn mois deo 1yeys enup @ Buropun ez Chapter 8/ Rear suspension, wheels, bearings and drivest ‘assembly 4.11a Packing the bearing with grease Protective boot assembly can be tapped back in position on the non-shouldered side. 9 Put the concave washer oack on the shaft, concave side towards the joint (photo). 10 Put the joint back on the shaft (photo). 11 Refit the circlip (photo). In order to force the joint against the concave washer sufficiently to get the circlip in the groove, support the shaft in a vice and drive the circlip down with a suit sized socket (photo). ‘12Having repacked the joint with grease tap the boot retainer plate back on to the joint. Use a screw to line up the holes in the joint and plate (photo), 4 Rear wheel shafts and bearings - removal and replacement (not GT models) 1. Refer to Fig 8.4. Remove the nave plate from the wheel, take ‘out the split pin from the axle shaft nut and with a socket and long bar slacken the nut. This should be done before the whee! is jacked up and you may need some help as the nut is tightened to 253 ft Ibs (35 kgm). 2 Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 2. 3. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the car and remove the wheel and axle shaft nut. 4 Draw off the brake drum. 5 Remove the four screws holding the bearing cover to the arm and then take off the cover, ‘O' ring and backplate (photos). 6 Using @ soft faced mallet knock the wheel shaft out and ‘remove the inner spacer. 7 Using a tyre lever take out the inner oil seal. 8 Remove the circlip benind the oll seal and then knock out the ball bearing from the other side using a suitable drift 4.5d Removing the backplat 4.1 1b The inner spacer has a chamfered inner edge (right) 4.10 Diagonal arm with the inner ball besring in position 4.11¢ Fitting the inner spacer on the shaft 9 Remove the spacer sleeve and the inner race of the roller bearing. Drift out the outer race of the roller bearing from the 10 Begin reassembly by first driving in the ball race. Then refit the ciclip and oil seal with the lip facing inwards (photo) 11 Pack 60 grams of suitable grease (Castrol LM) into the hub bearing and onto the lip of the seal Put the inner spacer onto the shaft 40 thet the chamfered edge will marry up with the ‘adius on the shaft flange. Then drive the whee! shaft through ‘the ball bearing until the flange just touches the inner race. 12 Fit the spacer sleeve over the wheel shaft, grease the outer ‘ace ofthe roller bearing and drive i into position in the housing (photos 13 The inner race has to be fitted over the shaft next and this is, best done by using suitable length of tube. A hammer can then ‘be used to force it in (photo). T4if necessary fit @ new teal into the bearing cover and fill the double ip ofthe cover with gree. ‘15Fit a new ‘O’ ring round the bearing and install the backplate and bearing cover. Replace the bolts and tighten them to 43 lb/ft (6 kgm). Refit the outer spacer, brake drum and hub and replace ‘the slotted shaft nuts which will be finally tightened when the wheel is replaced and the car is on the ground once more (photos) 16The slotted whee! shaft nut hos to be tightened to 259 Ib ft (35.0 kgm). This needs a proper socket and an extension on the handle (photo). It should not be necessary to use a torque wrench because it will be simply & quettion of realigning the split pin holes with the castellations as before. The actual move- ment of the nut to increase the torque from, say, 160 lb ft to ‘253 Ib ft (20 kgm to 35 kgm) is very little indeed. Always refit new split pin and spread the split ends correctly (photo). 13 4.13 Driving the roller bearing on to the shaft (GT models) - removal and replacement 1. To renew an oil seal or bearing requires the rear axle shaft nut to be undone so before jacking the car up remove the hub ‘caps and take out the split pin from the castellated nut on the shaft. Using 2 36 mm socket spanner and a proper long handle attachment slacken the nut. It is advisable to have the handbrake fon also. If the wheel still turns then some additional weight will bbe needed in the back of the car to prevent the wheel slipping ‘on the ground. Slacken the road whee! bolts at the same time. 2. Jack up the car, remove the road wheel and take off the hub rut, 3. Slacken off the brake shoe adjusters as far as they will go (see Chapter 9 for details). 4 It should now be possible to draw the brake drum off the splined end of the drive shaft. If any difficulty is experienced it should be tapped with a soft mallet progressively round the edges. If this does not seem to work bolt the wheel back onto the drum again and see whether the additional grip provided enables you to pull the drum off with it. If the drum should be really tight and unmovable then it will be necessary to obtain a puller which will hook into the holes in the drum and bear on to the outer end of the axle shaft. Do not strike the drum hard around the edges or you will probably crack it. 5 Once the drum is removed the heads of four bolts which hold the bearing cover to the axle tube are revealed. This cover houses the oil seal. The brake backplate is also held by the four bolts and the whole plate assembly may be moved off the axle and hung on one side without disconnecting either the hydraulic fluid pipes or handbrake cable. The bearing cover is removed s0 that the ‘O’ ring round the bearing may be renewed at the same time as the main seal, This ‘O’ ring should be taken off now and if only the seal renewal is being done then adopt the ‘method described later in this Section. 4.16a Tightening the axle shaft nut 1 Outer spacer 2 Large ‘Oring seal 3° Small 0°ring seal 4° Bearing 5 Inner spacer 6 Axle shaft 7 Thrust washer 8 Bearing housing 9 Oildeflector disc 10. Shaft nut 11° Brake drum Fig. 8.5. Cross-section of rear bearing and hub assembly — GT models (Sec. 5) ‘241 Yeu pue GunueEWSIP UO reoypUs anissa0x2 jo aoUapIAD ou sem a10ul papinosg “Alquiosse 2)xe BJOYM 94 40 1EO})pua Ut 4unse4 pue 98/5 aq 11M 1! 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Burze0q oun 40 S]1eq JoaIs oun UdanIag UF sobe6ue ‘yoIUm J9]INd pabuoId auyy © yim $1 Bulze9q ay1 aRoW2) O1 ACan o}se0 ou, “YxoU Uys ay 440 aye BuLIEEG a4 onows! OL 9 SYeYysoaUIp pue s6uneaq ‘s}aaym ‘Uo!suadsns 1894 /g 4axdeyD Soe Chapter & Rear suspension, wheels, bearings and driveshafts 15 plastic packing piece is in good condition there is no reason why the same gaskets should not be refitted. The theoretical Clearance is 0.00 to 0.2 mm (0.000 to 0.008 inch) but at there is no satisfactory way of measuring this the only practical wey ia by moving the axle tube in all directions as far as possible. Friction should be felt but there should be no jamming or sticking at any point. 16 If the gaskets have been damaged, carefully separate them to ‘see how many there are. Each is identified by having one or two hholes punched in it indicating that it is either 0.1 or 0.2 mm (0.004 or 0.008 inch) thick. Make up a pack the same thickness and then add or subtract as required, 17 There is an additional rubber “O° ring which fits in the recess in the bearing cover inside the gaskets, This should always be renewed on reassembly. Do not fit it until the gasket thick- ‘nesses have been worked out. Then fit it after the gaskets so that ‘their edges do not get caught up on it causing possible distortion. 18 If you have some molybdenum disulphide paste available (any moly additive will be better than nothing) smeer the mating faces of the axle tube and packing to aid lubrication particularly in the early stages of re-use. In any case lubricate them well with transmission oil. Tighten the retainer plate securing nuts evenly to the specified torque. 19 When reconnecting the outer end of the axle tube to the suspension plate make sure that the two marks made before removal line up exactly. Do not forget to re-fix the bump stop bracket to the front bolt. Incidentally, the bolts should be fitted with their heads inwards (to the centre of the car). 20 Do not try to replace the rubber boot until the axle tube hhas been re-installed. It is much easier land less likely to cause strain) to fit when the axle is as near horizontal as possible. Make sure that the parts are perfectly clean and that the clips are serviceable and not overtightened. 21 Refill the transmission case with oil, 7 Axle shafts and tubes (GT models) - examination for wear 11 Under normal circumstances the weer on the inner spade fends of the axle shaft will be negligible and in any case should ‘not be greater or less than the wear that will occur in the trans- mmission unit generally. 2. To check the wear, place the end of the shaft in the side gear. First measure the gap across the end with a feoler. If it exceeds 0.20 mm (0,008 inch) then 8 new shaft, new gear or both will bbe needed 0 reduce it. 3. Next fit the fulcrum plates into the side gear and refit the shaft. Then measure the clearance between shaft and fulcrum plate, It should not exceed 0.25 mm (0.010 inch). It is possible to obtain oversize fulcrum plates in order to rectify any exces- sive clearance here, Renewal plates have grooves cut in their flat faces 0 you will be able to tell if this has already been don examination shows that the gear/shaft clearances warrant buying new parts it should be remembered that the gear and shaft are grouped by size tolerance. These tolerances are colour ‘coded and the shaft has a paint band round it, The gear hes 8 matching colour in a recess. 5 Axle shafts should, of course, be straight and with the shaft held between centres the run-out at the bearing seat should not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 inch]. As this is not the sort of ‘measurement that can be made accurately without precision holding and measuring equipment you should not need to worry ‘about checking it unless you have specific reason for thinking the shaft is bent. Shafts can be straightened - cold only - so it is best to get this done at a Volkswagen agency. 6 The splines and thread on the end of the shaft should not deteriorate unless you have had the misfortune to have the shaft ‘nut come loose for some rare reason. The best way to test the thread is with the full specified torque when the nut is re- tightened. If nothing gives then you can assume that it will serve. If the thread strips - on either nut or shaft - then you will probably need a new shaft as wel as nut, 7 Axle tubes should not deteriorate. Examine the concave bearing surface at the inner end and check that the plastic Packing is not breaking up. The wheel bearing housings have been known to get damaged in cases of extreme bearing wear or seizure with the result that a new bearing does not fit tightly. {In such cases a new housing can be fitted to the tube but once again you are advised to have this done by @ Volkswagen agent. 8 Axle tubes (GT models) - oil seal renewal 1. If an axle tube oil seal gaiter leaks oil, action must be taken without delay. Replacements are split so that they can be fitted without having to dismantle everything. 2. Drain off at leat 2 - 3 pints of the transmission oil uniess you hhave lost so much that it will not run out when the gaiter is removed. 3. Undo the clips and cut the old gaiter off. The new split gaiter will be supplied complete with screws and clips. 4 Thoroughly clean the retainer plate and axle tube where the ‘iter fits. Then coat the joining edges of the new gaiter with sealing compound and place it in position round the tube so that the joint faces towards the rear of the car. Do not put sealing ‘compound on the ends where the circular clips go. 5 Put the small screws into position with a washer under the hhead and fit the nuts with a washer also. Tighten them all up evenly but do not overtighten. If the washers appear to be squeezing into the rubber the bolts are too tight. 6 Put the two clips in position and tighten them but not so much that they squeeze and distort the gaiter. 9 Shock Absorbers - removal and replacement (all models) 1 The shock absorbers (dampers) are fastened top and bottom by bolts connecting them to the suspension support frame at the top and the diagonal arm or axle tube at the bottom. The nuts ‘at both ends are very tight so be sure the car is firmly jacked Up before undoing or tightening them {photcs) 2 When the shock sbsorber has been removed trom the car fasten the piston head in 2 vice and move the body the full length of the stroke both ways. Equal resistance should be felt each way. Small leaks may be noglected as the dumper 1 over- filled initially to take care of this, but large leaks or uneven ‘movement means that the shock absorber must be scrapped and {8 new one fitted. Repair is not possible. 10 Rear suspension - diagonal arm - removal and replacement (not GT mods 1. Refer to Fig 8.1 and 8.6. Remove the driveshaft from the wheel shaft. Wrap the CV joint in a polythene bg. Remove the nave plate and the hub nut split pin, Slackun me slotted! huly nut Jack up the car, remove the wheel. Remow the inuke rum ‘complete with brake, hub, and backplate and hur) 11 to one side 2 Before undoing the bolts securing the spring plates to the diagonal arm it is important to mark both the arm and plates With @ chisel before moving ther relative positions, The rear wheel geometry can be upset if this settiny 1s lost (photo) 3-_Unclip the brake pipes from the arm. 4 The inner end of the diagonal aim pivots un a socket hea bolt (photo). Once this is undone the arm muy He taken out, Note the position of the spacer washers which are bo.h located on the outside of the pivot bush, 5 The bushes may be renewed as required. When replacing the Pivot bolt it must be tightened to the correct torque of 87 Ib ft (12 kgm) and peened into the arm in order to lock it in position. 6 When clamping the spring plates back to the diagonal arm the line up marks made on dismantling must correspond. 7 extensive repairs are being made (due to damage) which call for renewal of the arm it is important to have tie whole ‘assembly checked on @ VW alignment jig after assembly. 109 10016 [peay 184908 wwe jeuoBeip ay UI parsasut sauueds Jeinqni y FOL ove (88) aifue Apogyaieig o9t (vv) 218ue Apoqyareig 002 ‘9jBue uorreiA9p areig Oo aj6ue uoneinep Apog mol9q UON s01d -wiexe au s1es18nII IMM £°8 “Bi 02 eoues2jou “on at UBaMIDG saoua19))1p at ani6 01 aj6ue aieid au o1 parzengns 40 pappe 5 ajBue ays ‘soiemap Apog ain Aem yoIyM Uo BuIpuedsq 9g ‘aye 51 1UaWeINSSOW a]IyAR BrEIC 243 Bury Aq 0q APw 2304p Aeyd Aue BuNeUTUNNO “AUm BLUES a4 U} fewwozvoy ania ay wos aie/d Buds axp jo aj6ue ayn aunsoow G yewoz1i04 an oy wos} soIeIAap sit 438} MOY Ino s10M Jor2eNI044 pue j9n9) © Bus) “Jays APOR, uD Lr Buruedo 100p aus jo wori0g aur wos Uaxe) #129 eyt Jo ul, IPivoz0y ay, “siuewesnseow Alesse0su ain axeW O1 papacu 8q mM sorDesI01d © pue jana) ads y “sUoNeDij!900g ou) Ut aN #1 uon!sod passensun ay) ul aiejd Gulzds oun jo ajoue ay PoyDey9 aq UeD UoIsuadsnE ay Jo BUMS ay abe SIM) Wf “a@n9] 3441 8 yLiM Ayisea atinb ‘2uop 9 ue> S144 “Ory oy3 J8n0 SapLs 1 YeyL OS Ino BuTuds 0q Ish 3F 48q UoIsio1 ay ut UOIsua: yenpisa1 aAa!101 01 pue aBpa amo] 511 Buoje Bunsea owes) oyi ur Bn) © uo si801 aie\d BuNids ou) syepous yy ue leuBe1p uorsuadsns seas ays Bure ZO 2J0q Bununows 4addn saqosqe 4204s 1 4909 umesp ‘2qm aixe aut pue auopun aq uay Isnw arejd ays o» aBuel) aqni ‘axe ay2 Gulsnoes s1joq Bununow abe) sary) ey “BunUnoU 42Mo| au 1® parDeuUod:Ip 2q PinoUs Jedwep au “jexowe: aqni Pus EUs ope pue jenowes UOISSIMISUEN YLIM Gulfeap suOIIoes ‘842 U! Uani6 axe BuI06210) ayt Jo s1!e19q “IUeWeae|des UO eqn ‘epee ays YIM dn pouy) aq ueD 1 rey OF pox!eW aield Bulids ‘2842 pue 120) puey aut re 40 pouayDe|s aq pinoYs seIqe9 ee, PUEY aU “SIBayM a4 anoWOA pUe SIUIOd Buly2e! Je8) ay) Zopun Spuers axe uo Aju 4e0 ay WOddNs or AleséaDu 1811) 0¢ 11M 151M) Op O4 “Seleld Bulids aun Jo spus ays wou} soqni apxe Je91 ‘un yeep or Avessa9eu 5! 1) saiejd Bulids pue f1eq U0Isi01 488 ‘942 UO Ino paLsueD aq ued 40M AUP B10}9g “7° “Bly Od J9}Oy Z ‘Auo sjepow 15 “seyie601 wown BuIpjoy $1409 pue sinu axa oun “j9s149 © quia aieid BuLids pue we jeuoseip aur jo UoMsod ata LEW 1 19 ideoxe syepow jy Buns ue yuowoeydes ‘Jenowes - serejd Busids pue seq UOISIOL LL S¥yeysoaup Pur sbuvedg ‘sj294m ‘uoIsuedsns say /g s01deyD ou Chapter 8/Rear suspension, wheels, bearings and driveshafts Ww Fig. 8.6. Rear suspension diagonal arm - cross section of pivot mounting and bush (See. 10) A and B Spacer washers rear suspension spring plate angle body line angle Fig. 8.7. Rear suspension spring plate setting angle Diagram to illustrate setting calculation, See Section 11. If the correct body angle is 21° 20" then in situation ‘AA’ the plate angle needs increasing by 5° 20’ and in “BB" decreasing by 2° 40" 7 The torsion bars are splined at each end. The inner, anchored tend has 40 splines (Y per spline) and the outer end 44 splines (8° 10° per spline) giving an alteration possibility of 50 minutes (9 - 80 10’. In example ‘AA’ if the inner end of the torsion bar is rotated anticlockwise six splines and the spring plat rotated clockwise six splines on the outer end the net increase will be 5° (54° - 49°) which is as near as one can get. For situation ‘BB’ if the inner end is rotated clockwise three splines (279) and the spring plete rotated anticlockwise on the outer fend three splines (24° 30") the decrease is 2°30" which again 1s {8 close as one can get. 8 To withdraw the torsion bar sufficiently to rotate the splines for adjustment first remove the four screws which secure the ‘cover clamping the rubber cushion mounting. The spring plate ‘can now be pulled off the torsion bar and at the same time the inner end of the bar may be drawn out of the centre splined location. (Note that if one wishes to take the torsion ber right ‘out then about five or six of the screws which hold the forward edge of the rear mudguard to the body must be removed. The ‘mudguard can then be pulled out of the way. Torsion bars are ‘not interchangeable side for side.) 9 Having reset the torsion bar so that the plate angle is correct make sure that the rubber mounting bushes are in good condition. Renew if in doubt. Cover with flake graphite (to Prevent squeaking) and make sure the inner one is installed the Proper way up. (The top edge is marked “" ten”). Before the ‘cover is reinstalled over the rubber bush it will be necessary to raise the plate above the stop lug on the frame casting. If this is ‘not done now the preloading of the rubber bushing will be all wrong when the cover is put back. It will also be very nearly impossible to move the plate. To lift the plate put a jack under ‘the end. If it looks as though the car is going to lift before the plate is up in position get some people to sit in the back seat for @ minute or two. With the plate held in position replace the cover plate and setscrews. “S4ono} oui uo paiess Ayadoud ove sBuus Buidweyo a4 ey) auns soyew Siu “saqm apxe aya 03 sapin6 au 245 pue sapin6 ‘94g ou! way Ind ay. 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