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ATX Bench Power Supply
ATX Bench Power Supply
by Frugha
In this instructable I'll show you how to turn a working ATX PSU into a bench power supply.
For this design I got a lot of inspiration from similar projects.
Note: before starting this project make sure the power supply is unplugged and turned o .
Supplies:
For this project you will need the following parts and tools:
Parts:
ATX power supply x1
Female Banana Plugs x10
5x20 Fuse panel mount x5
5x20 Fuse (value depends on your power supply) x5
5Ω 10W Resistor x1
Perfboard x1
Multi-turn Potmeter x1
Voltage meter x1
On/O Switch x1
Step-down Buck Converter XL4005 5A x1
M3x5x5 3D-print inserts x8
M3 screws x8
Tools:
3D printer
Soldering iron
Wire Strippers
Cutting pliers
Screwdriver
Super glue
An ATX power supply can deliver di erent voltages with high currents. The plan is to modify the power supply to make it
easier to use it for your electronic projects.
The di erent colour wires coming out of the power supply have di erent functions:
Black = Ground
Orange = +3.3 VDC
Red = +5 VDC
Yellow = +12 VDC
Blue = -12 VDC
Grey = Power Ok
Purple = +5 VDC Standby Voltage
Green = Power Supply On
Brown = Voltage Sense
https://www.instructables.com/FKU/N193/LAQSUDS4/FKUN193LAQSUDS4.stl
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/FMD/KWDT/LAQSUDS5/FMDKWDTLAQSUDS5.stl
To prepare the powersupply cut o all the connectors and sort the cables by colour. Make sure to keep some of the cut
o wires as we'll use them in the next step.
I used some heatshrink to keep the wires separate during the building process.
After printing the Front Panel you need to screw in the banana plugs, fuse holders and the potmeter. Also press the
switch in the hole and glue the voltmeter in the hole using superglue.
When everything is mounted use some of the cut of wires to solder the sides of the fuseholder to the positive plugs. The
wires coming from the power supply are 20AWG. Because the amp capacity for 20AWG wire is anywhere between 5 and
11 amps I put 3 wires parallel to increase the amp capacity.
Desolder the trimpot from the buck converter and solder some new wires to it. Solder the other side of the wires to the
potmeter on the Front Panel.
Also solder the yellow wire of the voltmeter to the buck converter output.
Solder the output of the buck converter to the back of the fuse holder and ground banana plug.
I suggest using a multi-turn potmeter for a more accurate control of the voltage.
Keep 4 ground wires separate and solder the rest of the ground wires to the ground banana plugs.
Use 2 of the 4 wires for the negative input of the buck converter.
Solder 1 of the remaining 2 wires to one pin of the power switch.
Solder 2 of the +12 VDC wires to the input of the buck converter. Solder the red and black wire of the voltmeter to the
input of the buck converter.
After soldering the buck converter screw it into the case using two M3 screws.
Solder the green wire to the other pin of the power switch. This way when the switch is turned on the green wire is
connected to ground and the power supply will turn on.
To make sure the power supply stays on we need a small load on the +5 VDC output. To do this we need a resistor of 10
Ohms or less with a power rating of atleast 10 Watt.
I placed a resistor into the perfboard and made 2 holes 60mm apart for mounting.
Solder the last ground wire to one side of the resistor and one of the +5 VDC wires to the other side.
Screw the perfboard into the case using two M3 screws.
Solder the remaining of the output cabels to the back side of the fuse holders. Make sure you connect the right colours
to the right fuseholders:
Orange = +3.3 VDC
Red = +5 VDC
Yellow = +12 VDC
Blue = -12 VDC
Screw the correct fuses into the fuseholder. For my power supply I used the following fuses:
+12 VDC = 20A
+5 VDC = 10A
+3.3 VDC = 10A
-12 VDC = 0.2A
VAR = 5A
Check your power supply specs to make sure you stay under the max rated current the supply can provide.