01 FishAquaculture

FISH AND AQUACULTURE SPAIN’S PANTRY
SPAIN’S PANTRY
01
Fish
& Aquaculture
1
Products from Spain’s pantry:
01. Fish & Aquaculture 08. Seeds: Cereals & Legumes

02. Tinned Fish & Seafood 09. Spices & Condiments
03. Meat I (Beef, Lamb, Goat, Poultry) 10. Vinegars
04. Meat II (Pork) 11. Sweets
05. Meat III (Wild Meat & Cuniculture) 12. Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Olives
06. Jamón & Embutidos 13. Tinned Fruits and Vegetables
07. Cheese & Accompanying Products 14. Traditional and Avant-Garde Culinary Techniques in Spain
SPAIN’S PANTRY
FISH AND AQUACULTURE
© ICEX
ICEX España Exportación e inversiones E.P.E.
Paseo de la Castellana, 278
28046 SPAIN
www.icex.es
www.foodswinesfromspain.com
NIPO Online: 114210642
Editor
ICEX España Exportación e inversiones E.P.E.
Coordination and Content

Basque Culinary Center
Photography Credits
Cover page photo: © ICEX/Matías Costa
Back page photo: Martilova4/Shutterstock.com
Content
1. Introduction to Fishing.......................................................................................... 4
1.1. History of Fishing in Spain....................................................................................................4
1.2. Production...............................................................................................................................5
1.3. Types of Fishing......................................................................................................................5
1.4. The Almadraba........................................................................................................................10
2. Classification........................................................................................................... 11
2.1. Fish.............................................................................................................................................11
2.1.1. According to Species..............................................................................................11
2.1.2. According to Shape................................................................................................12
2.1.3. According to Fat Content.......................................................................................12
2.2. Crustaceans.............................................................................................................................13
2.3. Molluscs....................................................................................................................................13
3. Fish Structure......................................................................................................... 14
3.1. Cutting Tuna (ronqueo)........................................................................................................15
4. Aquaculture............................................................................................................ 17
4.1. Aquaculture Facilities............................................................................................................17
4.2. Species Produced..................................................................................................................18
4.2.1. Main Aquaculture fish produced in Spain..........................................................19
4.2.2. Molluscs...................................................................................................................21
4.3. Continental Aquaculture......................................................................................................22
5. Culinary Techniques............................................................................................... 23
5.1. Grill.............................................................................................................................................23
5.2. Char Grilling.............................................................................................................................25
6. Recipes..................................................................................................................... 27
6.1. Grilled Turbot..........................................................................................................................27
6.2. Sardines al Espeto...................................................................................................................29
7. Sample Recipes....................................................................................................... 30
8. Interview with an International Chef.................................................................. 31
9. Bibliography............................................................................................................ 33
1. Introduction to Fishing
1.1. History of Fishing in Spain modification of the common European fisheries

policy prohibited the dumping of excess fish.
Therefore the fleet had to be transformed, the
During Roman times, inhabitants on the Iberian
fishing locations changed, the volume of fishing
Peninsula fished with the aim of feeding the
decreased and important scientific research
coastal populations and producing salted fish
was developed.
and sauces. In the Middle Ages, fishing was
limited to inshore fishing to provide subsistence Spain’s history, culture and economy have
to coastal populations. From the 19th century always been linked to the sea, which has also
on, fishing experienced great growth as a result been a fundamental element of the country’s
of the introduction of the steam engine in the lifestyle. Already in the 21st century, fishing and
machinery of trains, since it allowed the supply aquaculture have managed to remain a main
of fish to Madrid, which meant a greater number economic driver, limiting the different regions to
of consumers and more demand. Uncertainty at ensure efficient and sustainable management,
the beginning of the 20th century brought with which involves facing the effects of climate
it insecurity in fishing, which slowly declined in change, plastic pollution or overexploitation,
the 1950s, giving rise to more intense fishing ensuring the conservation and sustainability of
as a result of the approval of development the planet.
plans during that time, which continued until The Spanish extractive fishing sector is
the 1970s. Starting in the 1980s, with steadily committed to maintaining structure and
depleting fishing grounds, changes in maritime productivity as long as the diversity of marine
law and the entry of Spain into the European ecosystems is respected, minimizing impacts on
Union, this trend drastically changed. The main other threatened or endangered species and
reasons: fishing for immature specimens and adapting to continuous changes in the marine
the need to balance the biological reproduction environment. There are many Spanish fisheries
of the species. This made the Spanish fishing that have the international MSC seal, which
sector go through a transitory period in which our protects and guarantees sustainable fishing.
fishing had to be restructured, making it more
sustainable. Along the same lines, in 2013 a new
A fleet of boats. Txakel/Shutterstock.com

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1.2. Production
Our country maintains its position as the leading fish producer in the European Union with a 20%
quota, which in 2017 was 940,633 tons, with a turnover of 2,147 million euros. Madrid is home to
the second-largest fish market in the world after Tokyo.
Fishing is a set of techniques that mankind has used to take advantage of the existing animal
resources in the sea. There are two types of fishing methods:
Traditional or artisanal fishing is carried out near the coast, with simple tools, simple techniques
and small boats. It is a low-yield method, especially due to the depletion of the fishing grounds
(marine area with abundance of fishing) near the coast.
Industrial fishing requires a large economic investment, uses advanced technology and pursues a
high volume of catches. Under industrial fishing, the following types are distinguished:
Inshore fishing is done near the coast with small boats but developed technologies. Their catches
are declining due to the depletion of overexploited fishing grounds.
Deep-sea fishing is done on the high seas with well-equipped larger boats that sail for days or
months. These vessels have refrigeration and freezing facilities that keep the fish in good condition
for consumption.
In terms of extractive fishing, national fishing production has caught almost 900,000 tons of all
kinds of fish, shellfish and crustaceans, distributed as follows:
1.3. Ocean products
FISH 94,32%
CRUSTACEANS 1,5%
MOLLUSCS 3,72%
OTHERS 0,45%
Ocean products. Source: MAPA (2018)
5
Sources
In Spain, saltwater fish is mainly extracted from international waters and the Spanish national fishing
ground, primarily in the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. A small part of the extraction
(0.45%) is algae, corals and sea urchins.
Ocean extraction
PACIFIC 4,44%
INDIAN 21,32&
MEDITERRANEAN 8,66%
ATLANTIC 65,58%
Ocean extraction.. Source: MAPA (2018)
The main working waters of Spanish vessels are the Atlantic Ocean, followed by the Indian Ocean.
The Mediterranean Sea accounts for 8.66%.
Map of various oceans. Martilova4/Shutterstock.com
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Fresh or frozen
FROZEN 60% FRESH 40%
Most of the fish caught by Spanish vessels is

frozen right on the high seas in factory ships
where it is processed and prepared in the different
commercial cuts.
Frozen fish. Artemidovna/Shutterstock.com
OTHERS 18,75
Fish
SHARK, STINGRAY 7,48%
TUNA, BONITO 38,75%
HERRING, SARDINES, ANCHOIVES 8,80%
BACALAO, HAKE 24,68%
SOLE, HALIBUT 1,54%
Fish. Source: MAPA (2018)
Tuna and bonito are the most caught species, making up

almost 40% of fish sourced.
About 0.12% of the fish that are caught are freshwater fish,
sturgeon, salmon and trout, eels, tarpon and diadromous fish.
Different types of fish. Neirfy/Shutterstock.com

Crustaceans
OTHERS 11,08%
SHRIMP 68,81%
KING CRAB 0,14%
LOBSTER, LANGOUSTINES 5,73%
CRAB, SPIDER CRAB 14,24%
Crustaceans. Source: MAPA (2018)
Spider crab. GoodStudio /Shutterstock.com
Seafood
OTHERS 1,23%
SQUID, OCTOPUS 74,71%
CLAMS, COCKLES 22,18%
SCALLOPS 1,10%
MUSSELS 0,08%
OYSTERS 0,29%
ABALONE, PERIWINKLES 0,42%
Seafood. Source: MAPA (2018)
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Fish, crustaceans and molluscs. Daniel Toh/Poring Studio/Shutterstock.com
Types of Fishing
The following types of fishing are the most predominant:
›› Lines and hooks: This is a simple and very effective method for which you only need a
fishing line, a weight and a common hook in coastal fishing of, for example, white tuna.
›› Purse-seine fishing: This is a fishing system in which a boat surrounds a school of fish
with a net that closes at its base and surrounds and traps the fish. It is used for species
such as sardines, anchovies, mackerel and tuna.
›› Longline: This consists of a main line that extends parallel to the surface of the sea.
From it hang ropes with hooks. There are pelagic (surface) longlines for migrant fish and
bottom longlines for benthic or demersal species.
›› Shellfishing: Clams, cockles, razor clams, limpets and sea urchin are the species that
are harvested manually or traditional tools such as rakes or rackets are used. They take
advantage of the low tide to be able to extract them directly from the sand.
›› Jigging: This is a set of hooks fixed together that pierce the soft muscular tissues of
cephalopods.
›› Traps: They are placed on the seabed and are used to capture all kinds of fish, molluscs
and crustaceans. It consists of a cage with an entrance mouth where bait is placed to
attract the species to be captured. One of the most traditional fishing systems in Spain
is almadraba, i.e. using a trap net.
›› Trawling: This refers to the use of a net to sweep the bottom of the sea, capturing
everything in its path. It is quite a destructive practice for the ecosystem.
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Fish caught with nets. Watchares Hansawek/Shutterstock.com
1.4. The Almadraba
Bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus)

migrate to the Mediterranean
Sea from the Atlantic Ocean with
the aim of spawning during the
months of May to July. It is during
that period, and they pass
through the Strait of Gibraltar,
when the tuna is caught through
this ancient technique designed
for this purpose.
The fishing art of the Almadraba,
which literally means “the place
Bluefin tuna caught using a trap net. Marcosdlh/Shutterstock.com
where you fight,” has been known
since pre-Roman cultures and is one of the oldest fishing systems that is still carried out today in
the westernmost Mediterranean. The technique consists of having a set of nets that make up a
structure of large cavities where tuna and fish are trapped. Placed at the bottom of the sea at 400-
1200 metres from the coast and at a depth of 20-35 metres, once the tunas are trapped, another
net closes the set at the bottom, allowing the fish to be lifted to the surface where they are removed
by fishermen, risking their lives in the process.
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2. Classification
2.1. Fish
2.1.1. According to Species

These are the best-known species in Spanish gastronomy:
Atún Palometa or japuta Fletán o halibut

Tuna Pomfrets Halibut
Bacaladilla, lirio or perlita Pez espada or emperador Gallo
Types of whiting Swordfish/marlins Sole
Bacalao Rape Jurel o chicharro
Cod Monkfish Horse mackerel
Besugo Raya Lenguado
Blackspot seabream Ray Sole
Bonito Salmonete Libia, eglefino or merlán
Type of tuna Red mullet Types of haddock and
whiting
Boquerón o anchoa Sardina
Anchovy Sardine Merluza
Hake
Caballa or verdel Tiburón
Types of mackerel Shark Mero
Grouper
Cabracho Congrio
Scorpion fish Conger eel
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2.1.2. According to Shape
Its body is elongated, wide in its centre and narrower towards the
FUSIFORM tail. It has two filets and its shape has minimal resistance when
moving through the water.
They are flat in shape. The upper facing side is brown-greenish in

FLAT colour and the lower side is whitish. Examples include sole, turbot,
ray, John Dory.
EEL AND SERPENTINE They are cylindrical and elongated in shape. To move they arch like
SHAPES snakes. Examples include eel, conger eel, and moray eel.
This group does not fit in with the previous 3: monkfish, scorpion
OTHERS
fish, etc.
2.1.3. According to Fat Content
Rich in gelatin, white, delicate meat, mild flavour. Fat content is not
WHITE OR LEAN higher than 2% due to the fact that it does not move very much.
Examples include hake, sole or monkfish.
Fine, tasty meat and good digestibility. Fat content between 2% and
SEMI-FATTY
5%: red mullet, sea bream, sea bass, turbot, grouper and trout.
Tasty meat with an intense flavour, firm texture, bright colours (red,
BLUE OR FATTY orange, brown). They have more than 5% fat: sea bream, tuna,
mackerel, horse mackerel, anchovy, sardine, pomfret and salmon.
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2.2. Crustaceans
They are invertebrate animals that protect their bodies with a shell that changes according to their age.
There are two types, depending on their appearance:
LONG Lobster, langoustine, Norwegian lobster, shrimp, prawns
SHORT Dungeness crab, king crab, spider crab
2.3. Molluscs
They are invertebrate animals with a white body and can be:
BIVALVE Clams, cockles, mussels, oysters, scallops
CEPHALOPODS Squid, cuttlefish, octopus, ommastrephidae (defensive system using ink)
GASTROPODS
Sea snail, periwinkle, murex
(UNIVALVES)
Octopus (Octopus vulgaris) in Spain

It's caught in Atlantic and Mediterranean waters. It's a shell-less cephalopod mollusc that can
measure up to 80 cm long and has 8 legs with suction cups. It has a sac-like shape and varied
colouring, ranging from grey to yellow to reddish. It contains a reservoir of ink that it uses when it
feels threatened by predators. The octopus is usually sold fresh, frozen and canned. Beating it or
freezing it will soften its flesh. In Spain, its consumption surpasses cod and anchovies, especially
in Galicia, where it's caught and prepared with olive oil and paprika, a very popular recipe called
Galician-style octopus.
Figure: Foie gras . Moune/Shutterstock.com

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3. Fish Structure
Fish have a bony skeleton that runs from head to tail connected through a central vertebra, with individual
units, from which the spines extend. This structure is covered with muscles that are distributed parallel
to the lateral line. The muscle bundles, in the shape of a W, are separated from each other by connective
tissue, which acts as an anchoring system for the muscles.
The connective tissue of fish is weak because its collagen contains fewer structure-enhancing amino acids
than the collagen of land animals. This is because the muscle tissue also serves as an energy reserve
(which is being built and broken down repeatedly), while in terrestrial animals it is progressively reinforced
with age.
The collagen in meat is tough and has to be cooked for a long time near the boiling point to dissolve
and form gelatin, but in most fish it dissolves at 50-55°C, and then the muscle layers separate into
individual flakes.
LOIN TAIL
HEAD
CENTRE FILET
BELLY
(SLICES)
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Now that we understand the structure of fish a bit better, we are able consider the different parts of the
fish that are going to be used for consumption:
›› Fins or wings: fleshy appendages located in the middle or on the lateral edges
›› Head: gives intensity and flavour to soups and broths. Once used, it is recommended to shred
their meat to make croquettes.
›› Tails: obtained by cutting perpendicular to the spine, with a large amount of connective
tissue, which is why they contain thickening proteins. They can be dehydrated in the oven and
crushed with a mortar to prepare a homemade health supplement.
›› Belly: muscle mass covered with a good layer of fat (blue fish) that delimit the abdominal
cavity. Given its high fat content and low collagen, large species such as tuna are spectacular.
›› Fillets: muscle masses of irregular dimensions separated from the body by cutting parallel to
the spine. Low in fat, free of connective tissue, great flavour and delicate texture. Spine-free
preparations include battered, breaded, roasted, fried or steamed.
›› Roe: ovarian masses of female fish with part of the uterus. From here the salted roe of different
species such as Mujol or hake are obtained
›› Eggs: unfertilised roe from females (caviar)
›› Kokotxas: the cheeks, i.e. muscular mass covered with skin and collagen located between the
lower jaw of fish
›› Spines: contain a large amount of collagen and are therefore used to obtain natural thickening
gelatin. They are used to prepare broths, salty jellies, soups and sauces with intense flavour.
›› Skin: rich in beneficial fatty acids, such as omega 3, and proteins similar to those of egg whites.
It can be fried to create decorations.
3.1. Cutting Tuna (ronqueo)
Tuna is one of the local marine species that Spanish fishermen catch. They are normally caught
using one of the oldest fishing tools: the trap. Thus, below we are going to explain how the cutting
of bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus), which comes from the Strait of Gibraltar among other areas of
the Mediterranean, is carried out.
It is important to differentiate different species so as not to confuse them.
Skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis): small species 1 meter long and very abundant in the sea
Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares): can reach up to 2 meters and live mostly in tropical waters
Bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus)
Red tuna (Thunnus thynnus) (Bluefin). Can reach up to 3 meters in length and 500 kg in weight.
Product highly appreciated in Japanese cuisine, it is a transcendental element for the economy of
southern Spain.
The traditional cutting of bluefin tuna once it reaches port is called ronqueo due to the sound that
the knife makes when it touches the animal’s spine. The extraction of the different parts of the tuna
depends on the degree of fatness of the muscle.
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CUT (SPAIN) COOKING METHODS
Morrillo Canned, baked, confit, grilled, stewed...
Lomo and tarantelo Raw, marinated, grilled, canned...
Cola blanca & negra Stewed, poached, confit, grilled, raw....
Facera Stewed, grilled, canned, baked...
Parpatana Stewed, grilled, pickled, candied, baked....
Ventresca Raw, grilled, marinated, pickled, candied, baked...
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4. Aquaculture
The beginning of aquaculture in the Iberian Peninsula can be traced back to the rule of the Roman
Empire, although the first true document is constituted by the Fuero Juzgo (649-672) of King
Rescenvinto, in which measures to promote wealth are established. The next milestone occurred
in 1129 when the Archbishop of Santiago wrote the order to build a trout brood on the banks of
the river Sar, which is considered the first in the Peninsula. Alfonso X el Sabio, in 1258, regulated
the protection of immature fish. From the High Middle Ages, most fish farming fell under the
monastic orders. Proof of this are the ponds of El Escorial (Madrid), Yuste (Cáceres) or San Martín
de Castañeda (Cantabria). Marine fish aquaculture has its roots in Spain, in the estuaries of Cádiz,
Albufera de Valencia and the Balearic Islands and salt flats of Murcia, whose encased plants were
opened and closed at intervals to facilitate the entry of species that were later fattened in captivity.
Spain is one of the leading countries of the European Union in the production of resources from
the primary sector, including aquaculture. Current Spanish aquaculture crops are being marketed
both in Spain and in the most demanding world markets. Farms are developing notably in rural,
river and coastal areas, where aquaculture is part of the main business activity, generating stable,
quality employment.
Aquaculture offers healthy and safe food for the world population, since it favours greater control
over the traceability of what we consume and complies with environmental sustainability, animal
health and consumer protection standards. It is also considered a management strategy for coastal
uses.
4.1. Aquaculture Facilities
Spain has a varied availability of water resources where aquaculture is feasible:

›› At sea in nurseries. These establishments consist of rigid plastic rings that provide
support and floatation to netting, inside which fish such as sea bream, sea bass or
croaker are housed and raised.
›› At sea in rafts. These are floating structures for the cultivation of bivalve molluscs,
mainly mussels. These consist of a platform from which the cultivation ropes hang.
The rafts operate better in sheltered waters, as in the case of the Galician estuaries. In
addition to mussels, cockles and oysters are also produced but to a lesser extent.
›› On land (salt water). These are establishments built on land on the coast and obtain
their water by pumping from catchments in the sea or wells. It is the kind of farm where
the production of turbot or sole is carried out. Red tides or adverse weather conditions
that can arise in the sea allow more optimised production on land.
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›› On the beach, intertidal zones and estuaries (salt water). They are aquaculture
establishments in which the culture is carried out with a minimum physical intervention
on the environment. This is the case with clam and oyster production. It is carried out
in areas where the animals are deposited directly on the substrate or in meshes on
tables. It is also the type of farms located in ponds dug into the earth in old salt flats or
marshes, an example of which is the estuaries for the production of fish such as sea
bream, sea bass and croaker.
›› On land (fresh water). They consist of establishments built on site on the banks of
rivers, or their sources, which take advantage of the gravity circulation of the water. It is
the type of facility in which the production of rainbow trout and sturgeon takes place.
Round fish cages. © ICEX/Juan Ramón Yuste Square fish cages. © ICEX/Juan Ramón Yuste Fishing with nets in a pond.
© ICEX/Juan Ramón Yuste
4.2. Species Produced
Spain is the country with the highest aquaculture production in the European Union, with almost
350,000 tons in 2019, representing 23% of the total, followed by the United Kingdom and France.
The mussel (Mytilus spp.), from which more than 250,000 tons were harvested in 2018, was the
main living aquatic resource in Spain in terms of weight. They are followed by sea bass (27,335
tons), rainbow trout (18,955 tons) and sea bream (13,521 tons).
The species produced by aquaculture in Spanish marine waters are sea bream, European sea bass,
turbot, croaker, sole, bluefin tuna, clams, oysters and abalones and musselsm, wich represent the
75% of aquaculture production in Spain.
Also, but to a lesser degree, other species such as eel, bream, prawn, microalgae and macroalgae
are produced.
We see that ¼ of the total aquaculture production is made up by species other than the mussel,
which are (in tons):
18
30,000 TONS 27,335
25,000
19,000
20,000
13,521
15,000
10,000 8,258 7,575
3,623
5,000
818 360 1,119 1,918
8 2 5.2
0
M SS BOT RE LE NA L S S E S E T
EA BA AG SO EE ER AM GA AWN GA ROU
BR R TU ST CL AL AL
D SE
A TU ME FIN OY O P R O T
EA UE CR CR
-H BL MI MA
LT
GI
Species produced in Spain. Source: Apromar (2019)
4.2.1. Main Aquaculture fish produced in Spain

›› Dorade: Sparus aurata Oval body, high and flattened laterally. Large head with arched
profile. Silvery grey with a dark spot at the beginning of the lateral line and a
small scarlet band on the upper edge of the operculum. It shows a
characteristic golden band between the eyes. It reaches
a size of up to 57 centimetres in length. The highest
production occurs in the Valencia region and Murcia,
followed by Andalusia and the Canary Islands.
›› Bass: Dicentrarchus labrax. Fusiform and vigorous
body with large scales. Pointed head with small nostrils,
small eyes and large mouth. The lower jaw is somewhat
prominent. Lead grey coloration, darker on the dorsal Dorade. Chamille White/Shutterstock.com
part and silver sides. It reaches a size of up to 70
centimetres in length. It tolerates wide variations in
temperature and salinity of water. The breeding facilities are varied: floating nurseries
in the sea, concrete tanks or ponds on land. Each sea bass
takes between 20 and 24 months to reach
400 grams after hatching from
the egg. The commercial size
ranges from 250 grams to
more than 1.5 kilograms.
Andalusia, Murcia, Valencia
and Catalonia are the main
producing areas.
Bass. Valentina Proskurina/Shutterstock.com
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›› Turbot: Psetta máxima. The body of the

adult specimen does not present bilateral
symmetry, being rounded and flattened.
Bulging eyes, located on the left side. Large
mouth with prominent jaw. Brownish upper
color, more or less dark depending on its
environment, presenting numerous spots
that also cover the fins. The lower flank
is depigmented. It can reach up to 100
centimetres in length. Rearing facilities are
usually circular concrete tanks in facilities
on the coast. Production is concentrated in
Turbot © ICEX/Juan Manuel San Galicia.
›› Croaker: Argyrosomus regius. Relatively large head and elongated body,

silver-grey with a mixture of dark tones. The head is coloured
yellow with a rounded muzzle. It reaches lengths of between
50 centimetres and up to 2 metres, and a weight of up to
40 kilograms. Rearing techniques are similar to those used
for sea bass and dorade, both in floating nurseries in the
sea and in earthen ponds. Croakers grow substantially
faster than sea bream or sea bass, and can reach 1 kilogram
in 12 months. The commercial size is between 1 and
4 kilograms. The bulk of the Spanish croaker harvest Croaker. Picture Partners/Shutterstock.com
comes from the Valencia region, but is also

produced in Andalusia.
›› Sole: Solea senegalensis. It is a flat fish with an oval shape

and practically symmetrical. It has very fine and small scales,
barely visible. The sole’s eyes change throughout its life,
settling on the other side of the head. Its mouth is very serrated
because it is a carnivorous fish. Dimensions approx.: 24 - 50
Sole. emmanuellegrimaud/Shutterstock.com centimetres.
›› Red tuna: Thunnus tynnus. Almost all of the

bluefin tuna available in consumer markets
originally comes from wild stocks. However,
another part of the bluefin tuna is caught
alive using pursue seine gear or traps and
kept for months in aquaculture farms. In these
farms, consisting of nurseries in the sea, the bluefin
tunas are fed to regain their optimal body
condition after the reproductive migration Tuna. funny face/Shutterstock.com
that they will have made from the Atlantic
Ocean to the interior of the Mediterranean Sea, and to regulate the market.
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4.2.2. Molluscs
›› Mussels: Mytilus spp. There are five Spanish autonomous communities in which mussels
are cultivated, but they settle mainly in the Galician estuaries through their traditional
cultivation in rafts. Galician production represents 97% of the national total, but there
is also production in Catalonia, Andalusia, the Valencia region and the Balearic Islands.
Due to the orographic conditions of the Rías Baixas,

the water currents due to the tides will
always be accompanied by
microalgae that feed the
farmed mussels located in
these areas. This peculiarity
allows for growth based on
the natural diet provided
by its marine waters.
Mussels. Lightman David/Shutterstock.com
›› Oysters: The flat oyster (Ostrea edulis) and

the Japanese oyster (Crassostrea gigas) are
the main types produced in Spain.
Open oysters. Jiang Hongyan/Shutterstock.com
›Clams:
› The Japanese clam
(Ruditapes philippinarum) mainly,
the fine clam (Ruditapes decussatus),
also known as Carril clam, and the
slimy clam (Venerupis pullastra)
Clams. zcw/Shutterstock.com
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4.3. Continental Aquaculture
Continental aquaculture is carried out with fresh water. In Spain, the main species produced in
continental aquaculture are rainbow trout, various species of sturgeon and tench. There are also
minor productions of common carp and Nile tilapia.
Rainbow trout: elongated, spindle-shaped body and adipose fin present. Blue-to-olive green
colouration on a pinkish iridescent band along the lateral line and silver below it. Back, sides, head
and fins covered with small black dots. Aquaculture farms are varied and include ponds on land,
concrete or fibre facilities and even cages in fresh or saltwater. Rainbow trout usually take 10
months from hatching to reach serving size (250-300 grams), although commercial sizes reach
several kilograms in weight.
Rainbow trout. Cannon Colegrove/Shutterstock.com
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5. Culinary Techniques
Of all possible cooking techniques with fish, the most common are the following:
Boil Stew Soup Poach Steam
In sauce Roast In salt Braise En papillote
Fry Confit Marinate Cure Smoke
Dry Canned Ferment Griddle Grill
Terrine Low temperature Tartar Carpaccio Sashimi
Gratinate
We’d like to highlight the following:
5.1. Grill
Grilling fish is a type of direct cooking, meaning the product is placed on the embers, offering
intense heat for cooking.
When the product is subjected to heat, two main reactions will occur that will modify its characteristics:
›› Protein degradation, which in the case of fish occurs after 45°C, making it more edible.
›› Given the high temperatures, the Maillard reaction will occur on the surface. That will
lead to a change in colour, flavour and aromas.
23
These reactions will directly affect the taste and texture:
FLAVOUR TEXTURE
Amino acids break down developing sweet

Proteins begin to coagulate at 50°C.
and sour flavours.
Aroma gets released Fish starts to dry out over 60°C
High temperatures develop the Maillard re-

The ideal point for most is between 55º and
action on the surface and develop its own
60ºC at the core of the product.
flavours and aromas.
›› The ideal doneness is when the fish is cooked on all sides and has not begun to dry out
on the outside.
›› To prevent them from drying out, grilled fish are usually basted during cooking with
different dressings.
›› Being such a delicate product, we can use different tools, such as fish poachers.
Grilled fish. © ICEX/Matías Costa
24
5.2. Char Grilling
The espeto is a very traditional technique from southern Spain, specifically from the city of Málaga.
It consists of skewering fish on an espeto, or metal rod. Traditionally, a bamboo pole is used, but it
is a material that is prohibited in some places for sanitary reasons.
It is a cooking technique that allows us to subject the fish directly to heat, placing it at the exact
distance we need and without touching any other surface.
The skewer material is very important:
METAL WOOD
Good heat conductor Poor heat conductor
The fish will cook both from the inside and Fish will cook from the outside towards the
outside inside
Cooking time will be faster Slower and longer cooking time
Recommended for larger fish Recommended for smaller fish
Skewered sardines. MrSegui/Shutterstock.com
25
Grilling in Basque culture and embers in Andalusia

The discovery of fire was a great revolution for those that these sailors fished: turbot, mackerel,
the cuisine of early humanity and we can imagine cod, and sea bream, among others.
how much cooking techniques have evolved
The skewer tradition, however, began in the sand
throughout history since those early times. In
on the beaches. Mounds were made in which the
each region of the world, the techniques have
embers were placed and the fish were positioned
been adapted to the produce and conditions.
around them. Later they began to be made
Within Spain, we find a great difference in the in boats on the sand, and today this has been
treatment of grilling seafood from north to sophisticated by creating structures that allow
south. As a clear example of this adaptation, we the embers to rotate depending on the direction
highlight two traditional examples: the Basque of the wind. The skewers are cooked by burning
grill and the Málaga skewers. the wood of local trees, such as the olive tree.
It is said that the espeto concept comes from El
Palo, a town in Málaga frequented by the humble
families of the city. The fish used is the most
abundant and cheapest that was in the area at
that time, the sardine.
Grilled fish in Getaria, the Basque Country. VivL/Shutterstock.com
The Basque grill is of maritime origin. Juan

Sebastián Elcano, a native of Guetaria, left three
grills for his relatives in his will. It is said that
the Basque sailors of the 16th century already
Skewered fish on the beach, Málaga.
roasted fish on the beaches and even seasoned GerardvandeWerken/Shutterstock.com
them with a mixture of oil and vinegar. As is still
done today with the famous agua de Lourdes.
It is said that espetos became famous during King
Logically, it was not roasted inside these boats, Alfonso XII’s reign when a skewer cook, referred
since any escaping sparks could lead to a to as “Miguel, el de las sardinas,” corrected the
catastrophe; however, there are records from King when he was going to eat the sardines with
the 20th century that all the boats in the area a knife and fork, instead of with his hands. After
had a grill inside. In the Basque Country, charcoal this, the popularity of sardine skewers spread to
is mainly used, which takes up less space than become the great gastronomic claim that they
firewood and is easier to transport on a boat. are today.
Later, these grills were transferred to land and
This is a clear example of how the same cooking
they began to be placed in the streets where the
technique applied in two places with different
tradition of grilling fish was continued. Logically,
cultural contexts evolves in different ways.
the fish that are used on the Basque grill are
26
6. Recipes
6.1. Grilled Type: Main course
Turbot Temperature: Hot
Servings: 4
FOR THE TURBOT
Ingredients Preparation
1 turbot (1kg) 1. Clean the turbot, making sure to remove excess blood.
Salt 2. Salt the skin.
Ajilimójili 3. Place in its grilling basket.
4. Start by grilling the white side, 6-7 min each side, basting it with
the ajilimójili to prevent it from drying.
5. Transfer to a plate.
FOR THE AJILIMÓJILI
750g cider vinegar 1. In a multicooker, blend garlic, cayenne, salt and half the vinegar,
4 cayenne chilli until you have a purée.
2L sunflower oil 2. Add the rest of the vinegar and blend.
350g garlic, peeled and 3. While blending, gradually add oil and emulsify.
core removed 4. Leave to rest 24 hours before using.
40g salt
27
FOR THE REFRITO
50g EVOO 1. When the turbot is almost cooked, heat up the olive oil in a pan.
2 garlic cloves, sliced 2. Once hot, add the garlic and chilli, moving them to prevent
4 slices of dried chilli them from overcooking and turning bitter.
3. Quickly douse the cooked turbot with the mixture.
4. Drain the oil back into the pan, now containing the turbot
collagen and emulsify, then dress the turbot in the emulsion.
5. Serve.
When to eat
This is a dish that may initially seem simple, but it’s very
special. It is a low-fat fish, but with a large amount of collagen
in the skin that will later emulsify with the fry, creating an
unbeatable sauce. The crispy skin accompanied by the
aroma that the grill will provide will round off this incredible
product. It is a dish that we will consume as a main meal
either at lunch or at dinner.
Beverage pairing
We must look for a pairing that enhances the flavour of the
fish according to its characteristics. We must think of a wine
that can live up to this great product. A white that has fruity
nuances and that helps us enhance the flavours of the fish,
a Chardonnay or Godello, for example, of which there are
excellent varieties throughout Spain like Albariño or Godello.
28
6.2. Sardines Type: Main course
al Espeto Temperature: Hot
Servings: 4
FOR THE SARDINES
12 fresh sardines 1. Gut and clean sardines.
200g coarse salt 2. Make a brine out of the salt and water.
2L cold water 3. Skewer the sardines starting from the tail end.
2 espeto skewers (stainless steel) 4. Grill over embers 2-3 min each side.
When to eat
Sardines are an abundant product on the Mediterranean
coasts, so this high-fat blue fish is perfect for grilling during
the summer and eating near the sea.
Beverage pairing
These espetos offer super traditional flavours, which is very
common to consume accompanied by a good cold lager and
it is a pairing that works perfectly. If we want to get out of the
ordinary a bit, a brut or brut nature cava that can clean the
fat and toasted flavours of the grill would be a great choice.
29
7. Sample Recipes
7.1. Recipe video
Galician-style Pulpo (octopus)
7.2. Other Recipes
Ajoarriero salt cod Andalusian fried fish Salmon in a

Spanish orange sauce
Crispy jamón Ibérico and Burgos Málaga ajoblanco (cold almond and Carpaccio of red tuna on a bed of
cheese arctic char tartar garlic soup) mousse with smoked cod, breadcrumbs with Gamonedo sticks
orange and Cuquillo olives and ginger oil
Pilpil salt cod

30
8. Interview with an
International Chef
When cultural
heritage becomes
gastronomy
Lucía Freitas
A Tafona
When I was 19 years old, I moved from my I worked in Mallorca to open the restaurant A
native Galicia to the Basque Country to study Tafona (Santiago de Compostela). I fulfilled that
at the Higher School of Hospitality in Artxanda dream in 2009.
(Bilbao). My training continued with pastry and
Three months after opening, I won an award
chocolate at the Espai Sucre restaurant's Higher
in the city's tapas contest, an accolade that I
School of Desserts (Barcelona).
held for five years. In 2016, I came in second
As a professional, I selected the restaurants in in the National Chefs of the Year contest. That
which I wanted to work so that I could continue same year, with restaurant Tomiño (New York),
learning. Thus, I worked at Celler de Can Roca I managed to take Galician cuisine beyond our
(Girona) to immerse myself in the world of Jordi borders. In 2017, I proposed a radical turn at
Roca's pastry; in El Bohío (Illescas), a reference A Tafona with a different concept in which I
in the world of meat and offal cooking with eliminated the daily menu and there were only
Pepe Rodriguez; and Mugaritz (Errenteria). In 5 tables. Within one year we obtained a Michelin
the latter I learned first-hand about the world star. A week later I opened LUME (Santiago de
of vegetables and orchards and I was imbued Compostela), a new concept of a gastronomic
with the philosophy of values that surround bar in which we cook "slow food a lume de
the local product. Finally, at Tapies restaurant, carozo," referring to its dynamic dishes with
as a pastry chef, I was given the strategic and very elaborate details.
economic vision of the gastronomic world. Later
31
Lucía Freta. Provided by Lucia Freta
What added value does this Spanish and bleeding are also essential for good
product provide in the kitchen? maintenance and for its taste to be clean and
to be able to mature well.
Fish is one of the main products found in
Spanish cuisine. The seas that border the
peninsula, as well as the estuaries of Galicia, are How could these products be used in other
very rich in algae and microplankton. Thanks types of cuisines?
to this we can supply our kitchens daily with
Fish has been present in all gastronomic
fish and shellfish. And that richness is directly
cultures throughout our planet for centuries.
reflected in our traditional cooking, loaded
The improvement of infrastructure has allowed
with varied preparations, stews, roasts and rice
that, today, a fish can be delivered anywhere
dishes that have this product as a fundamental
inland in a matter of hours and is affordable
ingredient.
for all budgets. Gone are the times when drying
On the other hand, fish is essential within the and salting were necessary for subsequent
Atlantic and Mediterranean diet that make up transport. That is why its use in world
and define our gastronomic heritage. gastronomy has diversified and expanded since
globalisation, meaning that the elaborations in
the kitchen typical of each region have been
How do you prepare these iconic products
replicated with travel and synergies. For this
in your kitchen?
reason, at present, in Spain ripened raw fish is
Fish is one of the pillars on which my cuisine consumed the same as in Japan, and vice versa,
is based. in this Asian country it is consumed in stews
I always try to apply techniques that respect and rice dishes from Mediterranean cuisine.
the texture and organoleptic qualities of the
fish as much as possible. To achieve this, the Which Spanish products do you use most
freshness with which it reaches our kitchens is in your cooking and why?
essential. Every day I, one by one, select all the
The products I use most often are vegetables and
pieces that we will later cook or serve raw in my
legumes. Spain’s culinary repertoire is rich and
restaurants.
diverse and the use of legumes such as beans,
It is important to cook the pieces with a low and chickpeas and lentils is very widespread in our
controlled temperature, hitting the right notes culture, but not so much in haute cuisine. Plant-
of salting and hydrating with brines, so that based proteins enrich and diversify my menus.
the cuts are precise and clean. Conservation
32
9. Bibliography
Anfaco-cecopesca, E. C. (2017). ANFACO-CECOPESCA Clúster Mar-Alimentario
Astiasaran, I. (1999). Alimentos: composición y propiedades (Primera). Madrid: McGraw-Hill - Interamericana
de España, S.A.U
Atún en conserva: detalles que debes conocer | Consumer. (n.d.).
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from https://www.consumer.es/alimentacion/atun-conserva-detalles.html
D.O.P. Mejillón de Galicia/Mexillón de Galicia. (n.d.).
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from https://www.mapa.gob.es/es/alimentacion/temas/calidad-diferenciada/dop-igp/pesca_molus_crus/
DOP_mejillon.aspx
Fundación EROSKI. (2017). Guía de Pescados y Mariscos.
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from http://pescadosymariscos.consumer.es/#list-pescados
García, R. A. (n.d.). Gestión Sostenible de la Anchoa del Cantábrico: estrategias locales para un desarrollo global.
Retrieved from www.conama2014.org
ICEX España Exportación e Inversiones E.P.E.

Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://www.foodswinesfromspain.com
Iglesias, A. V. (n.d.). Importancia de la pesca y la acuicultura en España..
La flota española. Situación a 31 de diciembre de 2020. Secretaria General de Pesca. Dirección General de
Ordenación Pesquera y Acuicultura. Subdirección general de sostenibilidad Económica y Asuntos Sociales. (n.d.).
Retrieved from www.mapa.gob.es/es/
Labarta, U. (2007). El desarrollo de la acuicultura en España.
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from http://arbor.revistas.csic.es/index.php/arbor/article/view/135/135
Luis, J., & Senano, G. (n.d.). General Caladeros Nacionales y Acuicultura.
MAPAMA. (2018). Estadística de la flota pesquera.
Retrieved May 1, 2021, from https://www.mapa.gob.es/es/estadistica/temas/estadisticas-pesqueras/pesca-maritima/estadistica-
flota-pesquera/
Ministerio de Agricultura, P. y A. (n.d.). BOE.es - BOE-A-2001-7791 Real Decreto 410/2001, de 20 de abril, por el
que se regula la pesca con artes fijos en el Caladero Nacional del Cantábrico y Noroeste.
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from https://www.boe.es/buscar/doc.php?id=BOE-A-2001-7791
Pesquerías sostenibles | Marine Stewardship Council. (n.d.).
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from https://www.msc.org/es/que-hacemos/nuestro-impacto-colectivo/pesquerias-sostenibles
Presidencia del Gobierno. (1984). Real Decreto 1521/1984, de 1 de agosto, por el que se aprueba la
Reglamentación Técnico-Sanitaria de los Establecimientos y Productos de la Pesca y Acuicultura con Destino
al Consumo Humano.
Retrieved May 16, 2021, from https://www.boe.es/buscar/doc.php?id=BOE-A-1984-18430
Vidal Bonavila, J. (2020). El Impacto político, económico y social de la pesca del atún con almadrabas en el
levante de la península ibérica.
Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.22199/issn.0718-1043-2020-0004
33
foodswinesfromspain.com
34
European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) A way to make Europe

01 FishAquaculture

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01 FishAquaculture

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FISH AND AQUACULTURE SPAIN’S PANTRY

01. Fish & Aquaculture 08. Seeds: Cereals & Legumes

Coordination and Content

1.1. History of Fishing in Spain modification of the common European fisheries

A fleet of boats. Txakel/Shutterstock.com

1.3. Ocean products

Ocean products. Source: MAPA (2018)

Ocean extraction.. Source: MAPA (2018)

Map of various oceans. Martilova4/Shutterstock.com

FROZEN 60% FRESH 40%

Most of the fish caught by Spanish vessels is

Frozen fish. Artemidovna/Shutterstock.com

TUNA, BONITO 38,75%

HERRING, SARDINES, ANCHOIVES 8,80%

BACALAO, HAKE 24,68%

SOLE, HALIBUT 1,54%

Fish. Source: MAPA (2018)

Tuna and bonito are the most caught species, making up

Different types of fish. Neirfy/Shutterstock.com

KING CRAB 0,14%

LOBSTER, LANGOUSTINES 5,73%

CRAB, SPIDER CRAB 14,24%

Crustaceans. Source: MAPA (2018)

Spider crab. GoodStudio /Shutterstock.com

SQUID, OCTOPUS 74,71%

CLAMS, COCKLES 22,18%

ABALONE, PERIWINKLES 0,42%

Seafood. Source: MAPA (2018)

Fish, crustaceans and molluscs. Daniel Toh/Poring Studio/Shutterstock.com

Fish caught with nets. Watchares Hansawek/Shutterstock.com

1.4. The Almadraba

Bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus)

2.1.1. According to Species

Atún Palometa or japuta Fletán o halibut

2.1.2. According to Shape

They are flat in shape. The upper facing side is brown-greenish in

2.1.3. According to Fat Content

LONG Lobster, langoustine, Norwegian lobster, shrimp, prawns

SHORT Dungeness crab, king crab, spider crab

BIVALVE Clams, cockles, mussels, oysters, scallops

CEPHALOPODS Squid, cuttlefish, octopus, ommastrephidae (defensive system using ink)

Octopus (Octopus vulgaris) in Spain

Figure: Foie gras . Moune/Shutterstock.com

3.1. Cutting Tuna (ronqueo)

CUT (SPAIN) COOKING METHODS

Morrillo Canned, baked, confit, grilled, stewed...

Lomo and tarantelo Raw, marinated, grilled, canned...

Cola blanca & negra Stewed, poached, confit, grilled, raw....

Facera Stewed, grilled, canned, baked...

Parpatana Stewed, grilled, pickled, candied, baked....

Ventresca Raw, grilled, marinated, pickled, candied, baked...

4.1. Aquaculture Facilities

Spain has a varied availability of water resources where aquaculture is feasible:

4.2. Species Produced

30,000 TONS 27,335

10,000 8,258 7,575

Species produced in Spain. Source: Apromar (2019)

4.2.1. Main Aquaculture fish produced in Spain

›› Turbot: Psetta máxima. The body of the

›› Croaker: Argyrosomus regius. Relatively large head and elongated body,

comes from the Valencia region, but is also

›› Sole: Solea senegalensis. It is a flat fish with an oval shape

›› Red tuna: Thunnus tynnus. Almost all of the