PCOS 311 LAB
WS 1
Cosmetic Product Notification
Cosmetic Product Development
 The definition of Cosmetic product in the ASEAN
Cosmetic Directive is “Any substance or preparation
intended to be place in contact with the external parts of
the body, or with the teeth and the mucous membrane of
the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly for
cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their
appearance and/ or correcting body odors and /or
protecting or keeping them in good condition.”
 Cosmetic manufacturers must ensure that their
manufacturing condition in respect with conditions
comply with the GMP set by the ASEAN Guideline on
Good Manufacturing Practice.
 Aiming to streamline the process by updating the
submission of application requirements from the
previously manual form to online submissions, the Food
and Drug Administration (FDA) allowed online
application process.
 This modernization was kickstarted in March 2013
through FDA Memorandum Circular No. 2013- 011.
What Information should be Declared in the Product
Notification?
The following information shall be declared in the Cosmetic
Product Notification:
 Brand Name/Product Name/Product Variants
The complete name of the product should be given, in
the following sequence: brand name, line name (if
applicable), product name, if a single shade is notified,
the shade name/number (e.g. BRAND ABC PRODUCT
XYZ EYSHADOW SHADE 1).
If there are different shades, the shade name/number
for each shade shall be declared.
 Product Types, or the type/s of the cosmetic product
that you are applying for notification.
 Particulars of the Product – The validity of the
notification may either be 1, 2, or 3 years at the option
of the applicant.
 Intended Use – This refers to the function or use of the
product and not the directions for use e.g. to moisturize
the face, hand, etc.
 Product Presentations – A Single Product exists in a
single presentation form.
*A range of variants similar in composition for the same
use but differs in colors, flavors, etc. is a range of
cosmetic products, which are similar in composition
and produced by the same manufacturer, and are
intended for the same use but are available in different
shades of color (e.g. lipsticks, eye shadows or nail polish
but not composite packs of different types).
*Palette(s) in a Range of One Product Type refers to a
range of colors as defined above, which may be
presented in a series of palettes.
*Combination Products in a Single Kit refer to similar
and/ or different product types packed and sold in a
single kit.
*They cannot be sold separately (e.g. a make-up kit of
eye and lip colors; a set of skin-care products sold in a
single kit). Please note that components of such kits
must be notified separately
 Local Company Responsible for Placing the Cosmetic
Product in the Market – It refers to the local company
responsible for placing the cosmetic products in the
market, which may be a local manufacturer or an agent
appointed by a manufacturer to market the product or
the company that is responsible for bringing in the
product for sale in the country, etc
*The applicant for notification must have a valid License
to Operate (LTO) and must state in the notification
application the LTO number of the company responsible
for placing the cosmetic product in the market.
*If the company responsible for placing the cosmetic
product in the market is a distributor, then the applicant
must also declare the details of the direct supplier or
manufacturer of the cosmetic product, namely Country
of Manufacture, Address, and others.
 Establishment Information – It refers to the particulars
of the manufacturer and/or supplier of the notified
cosmetic product.
 Person Representing the Local Company – It refers to the
person representing the local company responsible. The
representative of the Company, and his or her details
must be stated in the application.
*This person may be contacted by the FDA in case there
are questions on the cosmetic product, or if additional
documents are needed to substantiate the application.
 Product Ingredient List – All the ingredients in the
product must be specified by using the nomenclature
from the latest edition of standard references
(International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, British
Pharmacopoeia, United States Pharmacopoeia, Chemical
Abstract Services).
*Botanicals and extract of botanicals should be
identified by its genus and species. The genus may be
abbreviated. The functions and percentages of
ingredients must be declared if they are substances with
restrictions for use as specified in the annexes of the
ASEAN Cosmetic Directive.
What are the Procedures in the Application for Cosmetic
Product Notification in the Philippines?
The application process has four (4) main parts: Submission,
Payment, Download Result, and Revalidation.
 The First Step is the Submission. This is now done
through the FDA’s portal at https://www.fda.gov.ph.
o Once you have filled up the necessary details
of the cosmetic product to be notified, you can
submit the application with the FDA through
their portal.
 The Second Step is Payment.
o The application for notification has a filing fee,
depending on the number of years applied for,
or the number of years that you want the
registration with the FDA to be valid.
o The best option for payment is always paying
at the Cashier’s office of the FDA.
o However, to facilitate applications, the FDA
provided alternative payment options, without
need to going physically to the FDA’s offices.
 The Final Step is to await the results of the FDA’s
evaluation.
o The time frame depends largely on the
circumstances, and the submission of
complete information with the FDA.
o There are instances when the FDA will send an
email requiring additional documents or
information concerning the application.
PCOS 311 LAB
o Compliance with the email by submitting the
required documents or supplying the needed
information is a requisite to the FDAs approval
of the notification.
o On the other hand, the failure to comply with
the additional documents or information
required will lead to the rejection of the
application for notification.
Revalidation
 Acknowledged cosmetic notifications may be
revalidated for a new validity date, where the new
validity date will be based on the date of submission of
the revalidation application.
 The same process of application for cosmetic
notification applies for revalidation. Using the previous
application and information, the previously
acknowledged case must be selected to continue with
the task for Revalidation Application.
 There must be no modifications from the information
provided during the previous application to avail of
revalidation. Hence, any changes to the information will
constitute a new notification application.
W2
SOLID SHAMPOO
What is the Solid Shampoo?
 It is a bar of soap bur for the hair.
 The washing gesture is similar to the one we already
know for hands and the effectiveness, identical to a
liquid product.
 They are simple and practical!
WASHING YOUR HAIR WITH SOLID SHAMPOO ARE ALL
ADVANTAGES.
 The shampoo bar is much more environmentally
friendly than a traditional liquid shampoo.
 It contaminates much less, since it is not bottled in
plastic bottles and, therefore, the impact on the
environment is reduced.
 The bar of soap for hair saves tons of plastic to the
planet and a lot of money in your annual bill in
cosmetics.
WHY CHANGE TO SOLID SHAMPOO?
1- FLY WITHOUT WORRYING
 You will be able to take it with you, since it is not a
liquid. It weights and occupies less.
2- HO MORE PLASTIC!
 It is more respectful with the planet
3-ITS MORE NATURAL
 They contain essential oils, very little of water and have
no synthetic preservatives.
4-SAVE MONEY
 A bar equals three times as much as bottle
NOTES:
 One of the greatest advantage of bar shampoo is : It is
worthy compared to liquid shampoo na pwede magleak
 It is technically environmentally-friendly
 It can reduce plastic on Earth
 It can be used for about 2 weeks
WHAT DO WE FIND IN THE MARKET?
HERSAL BIO NATURE
 Bars made with pure 100% natural oils, without
sulfates, parabens or silicones.
 It proposes several options, for every need:
Antidandruff, dry hair, normal hair, fortifying and anti-
oliy.
LUSH
 "Shampoos, replete with natural ingredients and
essential oils, concentrate three bottles of 250g of liquid
shampoo."
NOTES:
 Herbal Bio Nature - it claims to be 100% bio-organic
 For baby : Shampoo without SLS or Sulfate (SLS-free or
Sulfate-free)
o Because it is gentle
 Sulfate uses :
o It increases the foam
o Source of cleaning agent but it is harsh
Bar of soaps can be made from fat blends in two ways:
 Saponification of fats with alkali solutions
Saponification of fats with alkali solutions; This can be carried out
by the following process
 Hot Process (Boiling process)
 Cold Process
NOTES:
 Saponification — A process of making soap through
Saponification
 Two types of Saponification:
o Hot Process or Boiling Process
o Cold Process
SAPONIFICATION
The process of making soap by the hydrolysis of fats and oils with
alkalis
made by heating animal fats or vegetable oil with concentrated
sodium hydroxide (NAOH)
Fat or Oil + NaOH > Soap + Glycerol
NOTES:
 Fat or Oil + NaOH > Soap + Glycerol
 The Fat or Oil can be changed if you want 100% organic
or the one who has flavor
 Essential oil — is the usual ingredient that you can
switch on this
o It will be reactive to NaOH (sodium hydroxide)
or it can be KOH (Potassium hydroxide)
 Soap - Cleansing agent (source of cleaning)
 Glycerol - aka glycerin
o a thick transparent non-toxic liquid
o Itis an effective humectant (acts as moisturizer
to avoid dryness)
Hot Process (Boiling process)
Mostly prefer because this is can be used quickly
BOILING. The saponification of the fat is done by boiling the fat
with sodium hydroxide solution (soda lye) in a large cylindrical
steel vessel known as Soap Pan or Kettle. The soap pan is usually
open at the top. The lower part of the pan is ‘funnel shape. It
contains a system of steam heating coils which can be either
‘open’ or ‘closed.' Molten fat and appropriate quantity of soda lye
are simultaneously run into the pan.
o Uses water bath
o Use heat source to melt ingredients but there is a case
that some ingredients are heat-sensitive
 Steam is then admitted through the open ‘steam coils' to
boil the mixture which is thus kept in a good state of
agitation all the time.
PCOS 311 LAB
 kali is maintained in sufficient excess, more of it being
added if necessary.
 Boiling is continued unless the greasy nature of the mix
has almost disappeared and the fat is thus saponified to
the extent of about 80 per cent.
FAT+SODALYE & GLYCEROL + SOAP
Coconut oil - is a heat-sensitive - not preferred for hot process
saponification
A. This step involves the separation of soap and glycerol, a
process known as ‘Salting Out’.
B. Use is made of the fact that soap is insoluble in
concentrated salt solution (Common Ion Effect), while
glycerol is readily soluble. The soap left in the pan is
dissolved in water and after boiling for a short time is;
salted out, the lye being removed after settling.
 This washing operation is repeated so as to reduce the
glycerol content of the soap and to remove impurities.
 The soap which is relatively pure is once again boiled
with fresh soda lye to complete the saponification.
C. FINISHING: The upper layer of soap obtained from step
D. is called 'neat soap’.
In which the ingredient like color, scent and other
ingredient are mixed and put in the mould to get the
finishing product
MECHANISM OF CLEANING ACTION
When a dirty cloth is put is put in water containing soap than the
hydrocarbon ends of the soap molecule in the micelle attach to
the oil or grease particles present on the surface of dirty cloth. In
9 this way the soap micelles entrap the oily particles by using the
hydrocarbon ends. The ionic ends of the soap molecules remain
attached to the water when the dirty cloth is agitated in soap
solution. The oily particles present on its surface gets dispersed
in the water due to which the cloth gets clean.
Summary of MOCA: It preserves the color and gentle cleansing of
the hair
W3
HAIR CONDITIONER
 Hair conditioners are viscous liquid that is applied to
the hair and are usually used after washing the hair
with shampoo.
o It is designated to restore hair to its natural
state.
o It has the ability to repair damage hair by
providing shiny look to the hair fibers.
o Hair conditioner restores the texture and
appearance of the rough and harsh hair.
PURPOSE OF CONDITIONERS
 Restoring moisture is one of the main important
purpose.
 Hair should be manageable after wash.
 Its vital role is to be smoothing the hair follicles.
 Should maintain the pH 4.5-5.5 (acidic) of the hair.
RAW MATERIALS USED IN HAIR CONDITIONERS
1. SURFACTANTS
 There is a use of cationic surfactant like
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
 Longer chain alkyl compounds are the best conditioning
properties.
 In small amounts, quaternary ammonium derivatives
improve manageability, prevent fly away by
neutralization negative charges in the scalp.
 A wide variety of others cationic surfactants have been
proposed and introduced into conditioners.
o Also known as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) -
The main ingredients of conditioner
o Causes the dryness of the hair.
2. PARTIALLY OR TOTALLY HYDROLYZED PROTEINS
 They are mainly used to protect, enrich or repair hair
fibers
 They are hydrolysates of collagen, keratin and milk
casein.
 A cream rinse formulation containing 5% hydrolyzed
animal protein has been shown to repair 50% of split
ends verses 25% for the same rinse without protein.
 Combine elastin and collagen hydrolysates have been
claimed to impart volume and softness to hair.
o 80% of hair is composed of keratin.
o To give supplement or nutrients to the hair,
common is keratin.
3. OILY MATERIALS
 It is used to improve hair condition.
 Oily material have been used to supply lubrication and
luster.
 They help to reduce fiber friction and the abrasive
effects of handling and they improve the condition of
hair.
 Silicon oil are often used.
 Lanolin derivatives are highly praised and used for
emollient qualities; hydroxylated and acetylated lanolin
and lanolin ester, add luster and a pleasant feel.
o Used as lubricant to remove rough surfaces.
4. GLOSSERS
 They are light reflecting chemicals which bind to the
hair surface.
 Usually polymers, silicones. E.g., Dimethicone (common
glosser) or cyclomethicone.
 1-3 minutes is enough when soaking your hair with
conditioner.
5. SUN SCREENING AGENT
PCOS 311 LAB
 It is added for the protection against protein
degradation and color loss.
 Benzophenone 4 ethylhexyl and methoxy cinnamate are
the two agents used in hair products.
 The common sunscreen used on skin are rarely used for
hair products due to their texture and weight effect.
o It is important to use conditioner with
sunscreen to protect your scalp from UV rays.
o Darker colors can absorb more UV rays.
Applicable for beach trips.
o Light, minimal, pastel colors absorb minimal
UV rays.
6. HUMECTANT
 A variety of humectant are used are polyols, sodium
pyrrolidone carboxylates are used.
 Others are glycerin, Polyethylene glycol.
 Natural humectant - jojoba oil
o It preserves and retains the actual moisture of
the product.
o When is the best time to put on conditioner,
wet or dry hair? Wet because it is more
distributed properly.
7. THICKENERS
 Cellulose derivatives are used as thickener agent.
 Carbomers are rarely encountered because of their
incompatibility with most cations.
o Mostly used as stabilizers.
8. BODYING AGENT
 For shampoo and conditioners, to be more effective
usually by using quite high levels of fatty alcohols along
with waxy esters.
 By incorporating this agent, it gives improvement in wet
hair condition, as it becomes soft and easy to comb
without breaking hair.
9. FRAGRANCE
 It requires low level of perfume.
 Conditioners are fairly easy to perfume, but the stability
of the perfume in the often quite strongly acidic
environment of hair conditioners must be check.

SURFACTANTS IN HAIR CONDITIONER

The isoelectric point of hair is approximately 3.67 and hence its
surface will have a net negative charge at neutral pH.

The anionic surfactants which are also negatively charged do

not deposit (do not absorb) on the hair and leave it in an
unmanageable condition.

Amphoteric surfactants that contain a positively charged

nitrogen group are more substantive to hair and can impart some
conditioning effect.

Cationic surfactants such as stearyl benzyl dimethylammonium

chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, distear
dimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl
amine and diesterquats are also effective as hair conditioners.
The main problem with using cationic surfactants is their strong
interaction with the anionic surfactant molecules which may
cause precipitation.

BTMS -> Behentrimonium Methosulfate, an emulsifier from

rapeseed oil