to Crochet A guide to making tapestry crochetbags. SEARCH PRESSRIANNE DE GRAAF discovered the colourful world of crocheted ‘mochila bags in 2013 and has specialized in making these ‘wonderful creations ever since. Crochet is not her only passion ~ Rianne also finds it very satisfying to pass on her knowledge to other people, so in 2014 she began running workshops on making mochila bags. One thing led to another and her company, RiannesHaaksels, was officially launched in 2015 in the form of a webshop. It was only ‘a matter of time before she wrote her first book. oa ‘You can find her on Facebook and Instagram as RiannesHaaksels and ‘her website can be visited at www.rianneshaaksels.nlRIANNE DE GRAAF COLOURFUL WAYUU BAGS TO CROCHET A guide to making tapestry crochet bagsFirst published in Great Britain 2019 by Search Press Limited Wellwood, North Farm Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR Original Dutch edition published as Wayuu mochilas haken Copyright © 2017 Forte Uitgevers BY, Barn, the Netherlands Patterns, charts and text: © Rianne de Graaf 2017 English Translation by Burravoe Translation Services Editors: Lein, Editorial & Design, Utrecht Photography: Gerhard Witteveen photography, Apeldoorn; Klaas Winters (atmospheric photography) Design, cover design and interior pages: bij Barbara, Amsterdam ISBN 978+-78221-674-2 All rights reserved. No part of this book, text photographs or illustrations may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means by print photoprint, microfilm, microfiche, photocopier, internet or in any way known or as yet unknown, or stored in a retrieval system, without written permission obtained beforehand from Search Press. Printed in China, The Publishers and author can accept no responsibilty for any consequences arising from the information, advice or instructions given in this publication. Readers are permitted to reproduce any of the items in this book for their personal use, or for the purposes of selling for charity, free of charge and without the prior permission of the Publishers Any use of the items for commercial purposes is not permitted without the prior permission of the Publishers. If you have difficulty in obtaining any of the materials and equipment mentioned in this book, then please visit the Search Press website for details of suppliers: wwwsearchpress.comCONTENTS Foreword Techniques Single crochet (UK double crochet) Back loop Carried yarn Spiral method of crochet Increasing Changing colour Crochet charts Staggering ‘Attaching a new ball of yarn Troubleshooting Crocheting the base Issues with carried yarn Materials used Yarn Crochet hooks Gripfid Weaving needle Kumihimo disk Pompom and tassel makers 3 13 14 15 15 5 % 6 % 16 Crocheting the base Starting off Adding carried yarn The first rounds Test piece Holes for the cord Wayuu Mochila patterns Hourglass Bag Large Flower Bag Azulejo Tiles Bag Diamonds Bag Little Flowers Bag Plain and Glitter Stripes Bag Cross Bag Flamingo Bag Traditional Bag Maze Bag Making the shoulder strap Twisting the cords Starting off Fastening off Patterns Attaching the shoulder strap Making the drawstring Starting off Fastening off Patterns ” v7 18 8 20 a 22 27 3 35 39 45 49 55 59 62 69 69 72 3 74 89 92 92 8 8FOREWORD is why I thought it was high time there was a book about it. Alll of the information you need to crochet a mochila and fix it together yourself should be easily found on your own bookshelf. So, with that goal in mind, | Crocheting a Wayuu bag is really fun to do, whic! took the plunge and contacted a publisher. And here it is! Thi book and I'm very proud of i Itall started four years ago. | discovered some great backpack-style bags on Pinterest, which were called Wayuu mochilas. Eager for more information, | did some research. Unfortunately there was very little known about these colourful bags. It turned out that these bags were actually made by an indigenous tribe from Colombia and Venezuela, the Wayuu people. As | did a lot of crocheting, | decided to venture out on a voyage of discovery. From then on | specialized in crocheting mochilas and, in 2015, my webshop - www: RiannesHaaksels.nl - went online. | also regularly organize mochila crochet workshops because, as well as enjoying crocheting myself, | think itis also lovely to be able to transfer knowledge and teach people new techniques. In this book, you will find more than just Wayuu bag crochet patterns. | will also explain the techniques behind ply-split braiding and Kumihimo. This book will provide you with al the information you need in order to make a bag with a matching shoulder strap and a beautiful drawstring cord. | want to thank all of the lovely people around me for their help - without them, the challenge would have been even greater! | would also like to thank some of them by name, such as my friend Klaas for his help and support with the atmospheric images. Of course, | must also thank the lovely Mandy and Majell for modelling the bags. My dear Beppe, 'm so happy and grateful that you taught me to crochet when | was a little girl. Chantel from De Haakfabriek, many thanks for the incredibly cool leather patches and the shoulder strap. Thanks also to the Sukade Restaurant in Meppel for the wonderful photo location. Linkeke, who works at De Bondt BV, for the gorgeous Scheepjes yarn. And, of course, Els from Forte publishers, who | would like to thank for all the support and for providing feedback during the creation of the book.TECHNIQUES I regularly get asked questions about the technique behind la crochet but actually, it is not a technique own right. ‘Mochila’ is the Spanish word for a backpack-style bag. It is crocheted using multiple yarns at the same time and therefor is a type of tapestry crochet: a technique that uses multiple colours to crochet beautiful patterns. The different Wayuu tribes and individuals all have crocheting yarn under twice creates a crossed stitch, their own way of crocheting. One person crochets which makes it more difficult to hide the carried yarn. | bags by crocheting yarn under twice, while another think that this is a major drawback of this way of crochets differently. This is how each tribe and person _crocheting. One great advantage is that this method of can make such different bags, as no method of yarn crocheting gives extra depth to your stitches, which can over or pulling through the threads is wrong. create a very nice effect on a plain bag, for example. However, for every advantage a method has, there is__In the rest of this chapter | will explain the crochet a disadvantage, and vice versa. For example, technique that | use to create mochilas. Single crochet (UK double crochet) While | was learning how to crochet mochilas, | found that you can crochet a stitch in so many different ways. You may think that it does not matter how you pull through the yarn, but nothing could be further from the truth! It makes a difference, and quite a considerable one too. To be able to explain it, you need to know that you can split up a single crochet (UK double crochet) stitch into two stages: the first yarn over and the second yarn over. How you create these yarn overs has an effect on the final result. Yarn over, through both loops Yarn over literally means taking the yarn'or thread over, which is the normal way to work a single crochet stitch. In this way, you take the thread over the crochet hook. If you crochet yarn cover both times the yarn is taken over, you end up with a looser, lighter stitch. By making a single crochet through both loops, the stitches do not sit neatly above each other, which causes the pattern to run at an angle. Photo 1 The crochet hook is put through both loops. Photo 2 The first time the yarn is brought over, i is taken over the hook Photo 3 The second time the yarn is brought over, it is taken over the hook. Photo 4 The finished single crochet. a i aeYO test piece/ YO both loops YO test piece/ YO back loop Yarn over, back loop With this way of working, the single crochet is worked only through the back loop. The stitches sit neatly, cone above the other, and the pattern stands out more. Photo The crochet hook is only pushed through the back loop. Photo 2 The first yarn over is taken over the hook. Photo 5 The second yarn over is taken over the hook. Photo 4 The finished single crochet. Yarn under, back loop Yarn under literally means taking the yarn or thread under. This is where you pick up the thread the wrong way, in other words, from underneath the crochet hook. If you do this when first pulling through the yarn, it creates a cross instead of a V. If you crochet yarn under both times the yarn is taken YW test piece/ YU back loop over, you end up with a cross, which adds a greater depth to the stitch, as well as making it stronger. Photo 1 The crochet hook is only pushed through the back loop. Photo 2 The first time the yarn is brought over, itis taken under the hook. Photo 3 The second time the yarn is brought over, itis taken under the hook. Photo 4 The finished single crochet.Yarn over, yarn under, back loop IF you crochet yarn over the first time the yarn is taken over, you do not get a cross but an ordinary V. The advantage of this is that the carried yarn can be concealed more effectively. By taking the yarn under the second time, your crochet work will be stronger. Photo 1 The crochet hook is only pushed through the back loop. Photo 2 The first time the yarn is brought over, it is taken over the hook Photo 5 The second time the yarn is brought over itis taken under the hook. Photo 4 The finished single crochet. | always work my single crochet stitches in this way. The great thing ‘about this is that I did not realize | was doing it wrong until | went into the technique in greater depth. That was when | realized that | was working single crochets incorrectly. For tapestry crochet, however, this, is the perfect way to work single crochet stitches. In short if you crochet yarn over the fist time the yarns taken over it ied yarn. By taking over the yarn the second itr makes the stitches stronger. time as a yarn und It is quite possible, especially in the beginning, that the yarn will spit when pulling it through the second time. This is because the yarn picks up differently from how you expect it to. By consciously turning the head of the crochet hook downwards when pulling through, you will prevent the thread from splitting. If you find this is still happening, however, it probably means that your crochet hook is too small for your piece of crochet work and so it might be a good idea to try a crochet hook that is a half:size bigg} It is quite interesting to play around with the different ways in which you can create a single crochet. For example, if you are making a cuddly toy with a long neck, try to use the last method (yarn over, yarn under) to create a stronger stitch. ae Test piece YO/YU back loop PEDTBack loop Have you ever looked down at the top of your crochet? You will see a kind of V-shape, two loops that sit beside ‘each other. By crocheting in the back loop only, the stitches will sit neatly over each other and the pattern will stand out really well. This isin contrast to crocheting through both loops, a technique that results in patterns running diagonally, which is not the intention here. Carried yarn These are threads that have temporarily not been crocheted. By letting them run under your crochet work, you will quickly and easily have the right yarn at hand for any yarn change. In this way, the carried yarn also helps to strengthen the bag. tis important that the carried yarn stays neatly underneath the stitches so that the crochet work remains even. It can be quite tricky to find the right thread tension, but this is. simply a matter of practice. The carried yarn should be neither too loose nor too tight. Why should the carried yarn not be overly loose? If the yarn is not tight enough when carried, it can poke through the inside (or the wrong side) of the crochet work. Its also highly likely that your crochet work will be irregular and lumpy, because the carried yarn is not evenly tensioned. Why is it important that the carried yarn is not too tight? IF the yarn is too tight when carried, itis likely that the base will not remain flat, but will instead become bowl-shaped. If you don't want this to happen, the ‘only solution is to undo the work and start again with fresh determination and looser yarn. You could also decide to carry on crocheting and not worry about it. Is it possible to keep the carried yarn running neatly? (Of course! Look at the carried yarn at the back of your crocheted work every 10 to 15 stitches and at every change of colour. Gently pull on them one by one as necessary. Only pull on the carried yarn that is peeping through your crochet work! Spiral method of cracket Wayuu mochilas are oto in a spiral. Tiss s0 you avoid having a slightly strange and unattractive seam on the bag, which is what would happen if you started each round with a chain and finished it with a slip stitch. Equally important isthe fact that, by crocheting ina spiral, the tension (gauge) of the yarn remains even. By always closing the round, itis as if the yarn tension (gauge) were interrupted. In addition, by doing it in this way, the carried yarn would be visible on the inside of the bag at the point where the rounds come together. In the descriptions of the bases of the bags, the increases do not occur in the same place every time. This is done deliberately in order to avoid a decagon being formed by always increasing in the same ten places. By moving the place at which the increase occurs each time, you will create a nice rounded base and the increases are less noticeable,ing colour The best way to do thsi to crochet as follows, before the fst sitchin the new colour. Pull the yarn through for the frst time using the old (current) yarn and finish the stitch withthe new (next) colour. Ifyou do it like this, there willbe no strange stoggering in the pattern. if you change colours ‘incorrectly then you will get what look ike ttle ‘roofs in your work: the V on top of the fst stitch in the new colours stlln the old clout hcl rake thet pater paedess nae Photo 1 The point at which the colour should be changed Photo 2 Pick up the old (current) colour. Photo 5 Pull the yarn through forthe fist time, then pick up the new (next) colour Photo 4 Place the old yarn between the other carried yarns and pick up the new colour with the erochat hook Photo 5 Finish off the stitch withthe new colour Photo 6 You will see that there are no roofs, but instead a neat stitch in Eoeeol TIP With the carried yarn, place the lightest or darkest colours behind the other carried yarn. Light and dark colours stand out ‘more, so by doing this they are concealed better. Crochet charts Crochet charts are read from right to left and from bottom to top, in the ‘same way as you crochet. Each box on the pattern represents one stitch. After each description of a base is an explanation about how to start working the chart: Atleast two rounds of the chert will be written out in full. This means that you can be sure that you are starting at the best place on the chart, so that any staggering is as unnoticeable as possible. You will not find the staggering in the crochet chart.Staggering This is a difficult and unavoidable challenge of the technique used to crochet Wayuu bags. By crocheting using a spiral method, the end of the round is higher than the start of the round, ‘meaning the pattern shifts or becomes staggered. It is therefore necessary to skip a little in order to make the crochet work as neat as possible against the pattern. Usually, the staggering is reflected at the starting point of the crochet chart. It is therefore important to start in the right place, so that the staggering is as unobtrusive as possible. With ‘each design, there is an explanation on how the staggering can be resolved as neatly as possible. There is also a clear photo showing where the staggering takes place in the relevant pattern, TIP With carried yarns, make sure that the yarn that is closest in colour to the one with which you are currently crocheting is at the front of your carried yarns. This makes them less visible. "Attaching a new ball of yarn Attach a new ball of yarn at a point when the colour in question will nt be used for the next seven or eight stitches, otherwise the stitches will be too loose because the tension in the new yarn will disappear. Continue as follows: take the ballin the colour that has nearly run out, place the end of the new ball between the carried yatn (photo 1) and crochet about six or seven stitches overall the threads, Now remove the end of the old ball of yarn from between them and lett hang down on the inside of the bag (photo 2). Meanwhile, keep following the chart! Make sure that the ends ofthe threads are kept at a minimum of 2in (Sem) in length so that you don't accidentally pull them out from between the carried yarn, The great advantage of attaching a new ball ths way is that you don't have to attach the ends. Once the bag is fastened off, or after two rounds have been worked, cut both the ends as normal. Nothing will happen because you have crocheted over the top - this is actually called fastening off. Do not cut the ends to the same length after fastening off because pulling on them too hard just once will use the carried yarn to pop out TIP Use a long cotton thread as a marker for the rounds from the base, instead of a stitch marker. A stitch marker is often too thick and stretches away from where you place the stitchTROUBLESHOOTING ing the Base ‘The pattern descriptions for the bases in this book have all been written out with ten increases per round. In my experience, this means that you can keep the base neat and flat. You may still find that the base is slightly bowl-shaped or that it wobbles. Below you can find possible causes and solutions for this. Bowl-shaped If the structure of the base is crocheted looser than the other crochet work, the chances are that the base will become bowl-shaped. This is because those first stitches are taller and wider and, when you crochet more tightly, the stitches become smaller and narrower. As a result, the stitches are pulled in too much towards each other. This additional tension creates @ ‘Another reason for the base being bow!-shaped could be too few increases. When crocheting a cuddly toy, the stitches are often increased by six or eight per round, but this technique is not enough here. Another cause may be that, when changing colour, inadvertently pulled the yarn too tight. This can happen, for example, while rearranging the carried yarn and picking up another thread. It might also be that, after changing the colour, the last stitch in the ‘old colour’ isa little too tight, which makes the stitch smaller. Remember not to pull too tightly on the carried yarn. Wobbly base If the structure of the base is crocheted more tightly than the other crochet work, the chances are that the base will become lumpy and wobbly. This is because those first stitches are smaller and narrower and, when you crochet more loosely the stitches become taller and wider. As a result, the stitches no longer fit neatly next to each ‘other in the round, and itis as if they go looking for more space. Another reason for the base being lumpy and wobbly could be too many increases and there are simply too many stitches next to each other. These stitches have insufficient space, causing the base to become wobbly. ‘Another reason for a lumpy and wobbly base may be that the carried yarn is not running tightly enough. This is easy to determine if you look at the reverse side of your work and the carried yarn is peeping through the stitches. Take a look at the back of your crochet work every 10 to15 stitches and at each change of colour. IF necessary, pull back the yarns that are peeping through your crocheted work one by one. Keep looking at the back of the crocheted work while tightening the yarns to check that the yarns in question are neatly disappearing underneath the stitches. At the front of the work you will see that the base is becoming less lumpy and wobbly. you ha If you are new to this technique, start with the Small Hourglass Bag on page 23. This pattern has been specifically designed for beginner mochila crocheters! 13,Jasues with carried yarn There are several reasons why carried yarn may remain visible. As explained earlier, it may happen because they have not been run tightly enough underneath the crochet work, resulting in them peeping out and being noticeable. It is also possible that your crochet may be too loose and that you are using a crochet hook that is too large, which will result, in loose stitches and allow you to see the carried yarn through them, TIP where to find their start and end points Allow the long thread of cotton that you used as a marker to remain in place, instead of reinserting it. Then, if you discover a mistake two rounds back, for example, you can easily take out those two rounds because you know exactly IF your crochet is too tight, this is usually caused by a crochet hook that is too large and stitches that are pulled too tight. What happens is that the carried yarns are ‘crushed! underneath the stitches. A comparison might be if you squeezed your hand while holding cake batter - the batter will be forced through your fingers because there is nowhere else for it to go. Using a smaller crochet hook and more relaxed crocheting will result in neater crochet workMATERIALS USED Yarn in different colours, plus a crochet hook - anything else when crocheting mochil [ike to work with Larra or Catona by Scheepies, which are the yarns | have used for the designs in this book. Besides the fact that these types of threads are available in an enormous array of colours, you can also combine them beautifully. Obviously, you can also crochet the patterns using any other yarn. What I would advise is choosing a 100% cotton yarn, which remains attractive for longer than acrylic, for example. After all your hard work, it would be a shame if your bag started to fluff and pill after only a few uses. The yarn | use is suitable for a 2.5mm (US C2, UK 12) or 3mm (US D3, UK 1) crochet hook. Please note that, if you want to use thicker yarn, the stitches will be coarser and the bag will turn out larger. Likewise, i you use a thinner yarn, the stitches willbe finer and the bag smaller. Each pattern tells you how much yarn in each colour you will need for that particular design. This is so you can be sure that you will have enough yarn. It also takes into account the shoulder strap using the ply-split braiding technique and a drawstring using a Kumihimo disk. Please note: if you use yarn other than that indicated and/or make the bag in a different size from the dimensions listed in the pattern, you may need more or less yarn. TIP Use at least three carried yarns to create a sturdy bag If you use too few yarns, the bag will not stay firm. you don’t need Cuochet hooks Its not possible for me to tell you for certain what size of crochet hook you should use. Everyone is different when it comes to crocheting. What | do know from my workshops is that most people achieve their best results using a 2mm (UK 14) crochet hook. Its simply a matter of trial and error to find the best fit for you. However, when you crochet, make sure that you never force things. Instead, let the crochet hook do the work for you. Adjust the size of your crochet hook inste of crocheting more tightly or loosely. Forcing yourself to crochet more tightly or loosely is not sustainable and increases the chance of irregular crochet work. In addition, itis not kind to your muscles and joints. jeter and the Each design gives the finished base height of the bag, so that you have an indication of how large the bag will be. You can also use the dimensions to make sure that you have used the correct crochet hook. TIP Create a test piece (see page 19), to see which crochet hook is best suited to your crocheting hand,16 To make the shoulder strap, | use the ply-spit braiding technique. This ancient technique has its origins in India, where it was used to make straps for loading camels, soit is perfect for making a beautiful, sturdy shoulder strap! There is an in-depth explanation of the ply-split braiding technique on page 69. When following this technique, | mostly use a gripfid, which is a hollow needle that is easy and efficient to work with, It does work better than a darning needle, for example, which can be a little annoying to use when your cord is pulled in and out of the eye at times... especially when you know that there is an ‘easier tool that can be used! ing needle Aweaving needle is a long needle with a flat, blunt point. Because of its length and its flat, blunt point, this needle is perfect for making the shoulder strap with straight lines (see description on page 76). As this pattern is worked back and forth with double folded yern, a gripfid is not needed. Kumihimo disk | make the majority of my drawstrings using the Kumihimo technique, which originates from Japan. This technique makes use of a round foam rubber disk that has slips and numbers on it. This fun braiding technique is described on page 92. m1. To create a beautiful, sturdy bag itis important that you use the correct crochet hook for your crochet project. Pompom and tassel makers find thatthe great thing about making a mochila is that nothing is too crazy! Apart from how you use colour, you can also use decorations to make your bag completely unique, or perhaps not decorate it at all, so that all the attention is focused on the pattern. Not everyone likes pompoms and tassels, but you can ‘adorn your bag in a variety of ways with them. working with pompom- and tassel-makers because these handy tools always make sure that your pompoms and tassels are the same size, Moreover, you can use them again and again and they are more convenient to use than cutting out cardboard circles. They come in different sizes and brands.CROCHETING THE BASE All the patterns in this book start with a description of the base. You always start by crocheting a number of chains that you close into a ring. | think that is the jest way. It is also important to take all the carried yarn with you because, if you insert them one by one, you will find that your stitches different sizes. | do not like starting off using a magic ring because how do you then take through the carried yarn? First, crocheting a round of stitches without the carried yarn is not an option. There is @ high chance that the base will be lumpy, which is caused by the size difference in the stitches [Atip is to count each round to make sure that the number of stitches is correct. It is important that, when the base is finished, the total number of stitches is correct, otherwise you will not be able to work very well with the chart. The number of stitches that you need is indicated in brackets after each round. TIP Do you struggle with the counting? Divide the base into ten pie-like wedges and place a thread as a marker. This way you only have to count the stitches between the markers and not the entire round at once. | will explain how to begin, using the hourglass pattern as the basis. Startit + Using the ge for starting the base, create a slip knot and put this on your hook. Make sure that the end of the thread is not too short because you must be able to tie it off when the bag is completed (photo 1) + Work § chains (photo 2). + Work a slip stitch into the fifth chain from the hook, to make a ring (photo 3). 17Adding carried yarn + As indicated in the pattern, take the yarn to be inserted and place the ends neatly together. + Place the yarn between the loop on your crochet hook and your working thread (photo 1). Make sure that the ends are on the right and the balls are on the left. If the ends are on the left, at some point you come to the end of your carried yarn, and you therefore no longer have any carried yarn. If you are left-handed, then this will be the other way around. + Work 1 slip stitch over all carried yarn so that you have caught them, For this, you therefore do not need to first put them in the ring (photo 2). The first rounds Work 10 single crochets (UK de) into the ring over the carried yarn. Note: crochet yarn under the second time you take the yarn over. + Change the colour in the tenth stitch (photo 1). + Note: when starting on round 2, it is important to see which stitch is the first one; do not confuse the first single crochet (UK de) with the slip stitch you created when you inserted the carried yarn (photo 2). + Insert your hook in the back loop of the first single crochet (UK de) of the previous row (photo 3). (In the photo, the carried yarns are not as they should be, but this was necessary to ensure a good image of the back loop) + Work 2 single crochets (UK de) in each stitch, and be ‘aware that you are working in the back loops and that, the second time the yarn is taken over, itis @ yarn under (photo 4). + After 20 stitches, you will have arrived at the third round, so make sure you have changed the yarn again at the twentieth stitch (photo 5).Test piece Before you start on the real piece of crochet, you can first follow the description below to crochet a test piece with some leftover yarn. Only colours A and B are used for crocheting, whereas colours C and D are used as carried yarn. The test piece is about in (15cm) in diameter. Remember that a single crochet (se) is a double crochet (de) in UK crochet terminology. Crochet 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Add one length of yarns B, C and D, Round 1: work 10 s¢ into the ring going over the yarn Go sts). Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3: *2 sc in first st, 1sc* (50 sts). Round 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* (40 sts). Round 5: sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn B* (50 sts). Round 6: *2 sc in first st,3 sc, 2sc in next st in yarn A, 5 sein yarn B* (60 sts). Round 7:1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 15¢ in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (70 sts). Round 8: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2sc in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (80 sts). Round 9:1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1s in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (90 sts). Round 10: *3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc in yarn A, 5 sc in Yarn B* (100 sts). Round ni: "6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6sc, 2sc in next st, 1s¢ inyarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (No sts). Round 12: "4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc, sc in next st, 4 ¢ in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (120 sts), Round 13: 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 se in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn B* (130 sts). Round 14: using yarn A "2 sc, 2 sc in next st (140 sts). TIP Do not close the rounds, but crochet ina spiral as explained. This way you avoid having a seam in your bag and the thread tension (gauge) becoming irregular. 19HOLES FOR THE CORD icates how many holes you need to create for the drawstring, but how do you make them? Actually, they're really simple! | will use the plain bag as an example: with this pattern there are 16 single crochets (UK double crochet) between each hole. Once you have worked 16 single crochets, you are at the point where you are going to make the first hole. Continue as follows. + Keep your carried yarn at the same thread tension (gauge) (photo 1). + Work a single crochet over the carried yarn (photo 2). + Work another 3 single crochets so that you have now crocheted a total of 4 single crochets over the carried yarn (photo 3). + Skip 4 single crochets from the previous round and work a single crochet into the fifth single crochet. The first hole for the cord is now made (photo 4). + Work single crochets (you have already worked one, so a total of 16), and create the next hole for the string. Repeat until you have created tenholes. By working back and forth over the carried yarns they will be nicely hidden away. It might take alittle bit of effort, but this is the most attractive way to make the holes for the drawstring. necessary, move the stitches that you have worked over the carried yarn a little, so that they sit neatly next to each other. When you have crocheted the following round, the stitches will be stronger and stay in place better. After the round with the holes for the drawstring, work at least three more rounds to ensure the holes are firm. | also use these last rows for fixing on the shoulder strap. TIP If you would like to customize the number of holes for the drawstring ae make sure that you always have an even number of holes, otherwise it will not look right. 20FASTENING OFF THE BAG After you have crocheted the rounds above the drawstring holes, it is time to fasten off the bag. Suddenly stopping and snipping off the carried yarn is not really the best way, as the fastening off will be very visible. This would be a shame, since there is a neater way. | always do the following: when | have approximately 40 stitches left to crochet in the last round, | leave the first carried yarn behind. By leaving it behind, | mean that | pull away the carried yarn between the rest and literally leave it hanging on the inside of the bag. After 8 or 9 stitches, leave the next thread of carried yarn behind, and | do this until there are no more carried yarns (photo 1). Now | work another § or 6 single crochets without any carried yarn and | finish fastening off with a number of slip stitches. By fastening off in this way, the stitches slowly become lower and the fastening off is neater and less noticeable (photo 2) _————sN ) ‘A major advantage of leaving the carried yarn behind one by one, is that you can just cut the threads off as normal and you do not have to fasten them off, What does get fastened off is the yarn that you used at the start of the base and the yarn of the last round. At the point where | have crocheted a slip stitch, | attach the shoulder strap. The finishing off now falls behind the shoulder strap, and is neat and almost invisible. IF you would like to create a decorative edge, such as using a crab stitch or a fan edge, do net crochet the slip stitch and stop after you have crocheted the single crochet stitches without carried yarn. wn22 HOURGLASS BAG This small hourglass bag pattern has been specially designed for those just getting into tapestry crochet. The description of the base is easy to follow and it is sensible to start with a small bag. It allows you to get to grips pieces of work. In so doing, you will find that your crochet dexterity improves while making your first bag. The colours of the small hourglass bag are based on those of the kingfisher. | grabbed these cotton colours from the cupboard and instantly fll in love with them! With the large hourglass bag, | started with the purple yarn because it really spoke to me and | knew right away that | wanted to use it as the basis for the next bag. By adding the other colours, | came across an unusual but really cool combination. With both bags, | used a dark yarn as the base colour. As a result, the other colours really stood out! There are an ‘endless number of yarn combinations, but do you know what makes a really funky impact? Take three neutral colours, such as brown or grey tones, and use one colour that will stand out. The part that you crochet with this colour will really jump out, creating a whole different feel with one and the same pattern. What you will need Small Hourglass Bag 1 ball each of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn in petrol (A: 7420, mint (B: 17338), orange (C: 7404) and wine red (D: 7415); Scheepjes Larra Sog/37yd/i2sm Colours used on the sample images page 9 (carried yarn), page 10 (changing colour), page 12 (attach new colour) 1 ball each of fingering (a-pl) cotton yarn in silver green (A: 402), old rose (B: 408), rose wine (C: 396) and dark teal (D: 401); Scheepjes Catona Sog/137yd/25m Large Hourglass Bag 9 balls of fingering (apply) cotton yarn; 3 balls in dark purple (A: 7595), 2 balls in orange (B: 7404), 2 ball in bright blue (C7571) and 2 balls in cyclamen pink; Scheepjes Larra Sog/t37yd/125m Optional Feathers TIP You will find the final dimensions of the bag with each design. On the basis of these dimensions, you can determine whether you have used the correct crochet hook.Pattern The chart has a repeat of 30 stitches. This means that the number of stitches on the base must be divisible by 30 for it to turn out nice and neat like the chart. For the little hourglass, the pattern is repeated four times ‘over 120 stitches and, for the large hourglass, it is repeated eight times over 240 stitches. Dimensions Small Hourglass Bag Base diameter is approximately 4/in (nem), height is approximately 6in (sem). Large Hourglass Bag Base diameter is approximately 8¥in (22cm), height is approximately 1oin (25¢m). INSTRUCTIONS Small Bag - base Work § chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Add one length of yarns B, C and D. Round 1: work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn (Qo sts), change to yarn B. Round 2: work 2 sc in each st (20 sts), change to yarn C. Round 3: ‘work 2 sc in first st,1 sc* (50 sts), change to yarn. Round 4: *2 sc, 2c into next st* (40 sts), change to yarn A. Round 5: *3 sc, 2sc into next st® (50 sts), change to yarn. Round 6: 2 sc, *2 sc into next st, 4 sc* finishing with 2c in next st, 1sc into last 2 sts (60 sts), change to yarn C. Round 7: *2 sc into first st, 5 sc (70 sts), change to yarn D. Round 8: 5 sc, *2 sc into next st, 6 sc*, finishing with 2 sc in next st, 3 sc (B0 sts), change to yarn A. Round 9: *7 sc, 2 sc into next st* (90 sts), change to, yarn B. Round 10: 4 sc, *2 sc into next st, 8 sc’ finishing with 2c in next st, 4 Sc (100 sts), change to yarn C. Round 11: "2 sc in ist st, 9 sc (to sts), change to yarn D. Round 12:5 sc, *2 sc into next st, 10 sc’, finishing with 2c in next st, 5 sc (120 sts), change to yarn A. Skip the next round if you want to make the large hourglass. Round 13: using yarn A, work 1 sc in each st (120 sts). First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. ‘The explanation of the crochet chart on page 26 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. 23Ha Bag - base ‘small hourglass bag. Round 13: *n sc, 2 sc in next st* (130 sts), change to Round 14: 6 sc, °2 sc in next st, 12 sc*, finishing with 2sc in next st, 6 sc (140 sts), change to yarn C. Round 15: *13 sc, 2 sc in next st* (150 sts), change to Round 16: 7 sc, *2 sc in next st, 14 sc*, finishing with 2c in next st, 7 sc (160 sts), change to yarn A. Round 17: *15 sc, 2 sc in next st* (170 sts), change to Round 18: 8 sc, *2 sc in next st, 16 sc*, finishing with 2c in next st, 8 sc (180 sts), change to yarn C. Round 19: *17 sc, 2 sc in next st* (190 sts), change to Round 20: 9 sc, *2 sc in next st, 18 sc’, finishing with 2c in next st, 9 sc (200 sts), change to yarn A. Round 21: *19 sc, 2 sc in next st* (210 sts), change to yarn B, Round 22:10 sc, *2 sc in next st, 20 sc*, finishing with 2c in next st, 10 sc (220 sts), change to yarn C. Round 23: "21 sc, 2 sc in next st* (230 sts), change to yarn D. Round 24: 11 sc, *2 sc in next st, 22 sc’, finishing with 2c in next st, 1 sc (240 sts), change to yarn A. Round 25: work 1 sc in each st (240 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart on page 26 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident.26 Staggering Please note, ths pattern is staggered at the point at which you startin the chart. Once you have crocheted the first round of the chart, the second round will not work. Instead of 4 se with yarn A, you crochet 3 s¢ (UK de). This is because, when you are crocheting in a spiral, the end ofthe round is higher than the starting point, so the pattern is staggered Starting the crochet chart Round 1: work *2 sc in yarn A, 28 sc in yarn B, rep from * three times for the small hourglass and seven times for the large hourglass. Round 2: work 3 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 22 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, *4 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 22 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, rep from *. Now continue by following the chart. Work approximately 27 rounds for the small hourglass or approximately 55 rounds for the large hourglass. Holes for the cord oti caer ee holes for the small hourglass bag, with 1 stitches between the holes. Make ten holes for the large hourglass bag, with 20 stitches between the holes. ing off the bag Fasten off the bag according to the description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap for the small hourglass bag, as. described on page 69. For this bag, pattern one has been. used for the shoulder strap, using petrol, mint, orange and wine red yarns. Make a shoulder strap for the large hourglass bag, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern one has been used for the shoulder strap, using dark purple, orange, bright blue and cyclamen pink yarns. Attach the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on ee Make a drawstring for the small hourglass bag. For this bag, I decided to use mint, orange and wine red yarns for the braid. Make a drawstring for the large hourglass bag. For this bag, I decided to use orange, bright blue and cyclamen pink yarns for the braid. Decorate the bag with feathers and/or other colourful decorations. completely satisfied with your first bag? Don't be too hard on yourself practice makes perfect! Turn your bag into a pen holder, or keep your crochet hooks nit, then start on the next bag with lots Perhaps you would prefer to practise crocheting another small mochila but would like to use a different pattern? On page 39, you will ind the Flowers design and, at the bottom of page 42, you will find an explanation of how this pattern can be adjusted for a smaller design.LARGE FLOWER BAG This pattern is perfect to use for your second or third bag. The however, used. I ove the golden brown colour | have chosen as the basis for this bag, because it combines surprisingly well with other shades. Apart from my love for yarn and flowers, | also love using colours which remain true to the nature of the subject and the colour pink. Traditionally, | have designed flowers with a yellow centre, orange border, and pale pink petals. To emphasize the shape of the flower, | crocheted around the edge of the petals in a bright shade of pink. What you will need Pattern 8 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: Salls in golden The Large Flower chart has @ repeat of 54+ 2 stitches. brown (A:7419),1 ballin bright pink (B: 7416), 2 balls in This means that the numberof stitches on the base pale pink (C: 7403), ball in pale orange (D:7418) and must be divisible by 34, and you will need two extra 1 ballin yellow (E: 7380); Scheepjes Larra stitches for it to turn out nice and neat like the chart. 509/137yd/125m The pattern is repeated six times over 204 stitches + Optional 2stitches, making a total of 206 stitches. Tassel maker Dimensions Base diameter is approximately in (18cm), height is approximately 8/4in (21cm). a7INSTRUCTIONS Base ‘Work 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, Add one length of yarns B, C, D and E. Round 1: work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn (00), change to yarn B. Round 2:2 sc in each st (20 sts), change to yarn C. Round 3:*2 sc in first st,1 sc* (50 sts), change to yarn D. Round 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st* (40 sts), change to yarn E. Round 5:°5 sc, 2 sc in next st® (50 sts), change to yarn A. Round 6:1 sc, *2 sc in next st, 4 sc’, rep three times from *to*,2 sc in next st, 3 sc, change to yarn B, 1c, °2sc in next st, 4 sc*, rep three times from * to*, finishing with 2c in next st,3 sc (60 sts), change to yarn C. Round 7:°5 sc,2 sc in next st", rep four times from *to*, change to yarn D, °5 sc, 2 sc in next st’, rep four times from * to * (70 sts), change to yarn E. Round 8 3 sc, *2 sc in next st, 6 sc*, rep three times from to *,2sc in next st, 3c, change to yarn A, 3 sc, *25cin next st, 65°, rep three times from * to *,2 sc in next st,3sc (60 sts), change to yarn B. Round 9: *2 sin first st, 7 se*, rep four times from * to *, change to yarn C, *2 sc in next st, 7 sc*, rep four times from * to * (90 sts), change to yarn D. Round 10: 4 sc, *2 sc in next st, 8 se", rep three times from * to *, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, change to yarn E, 4 sc, *2sc in next st, 8 sc*, rep three times from * to *, 2 s¢ in next st, 4c (100 sts), change to yarn A. Round m1: *9 sc, 2s¢ in next st", rep four times from *to*, change to yarn B, *9 sc, 2sc in next st*, rep four times from * to * (no sts), change to yarn C. Round 12: 5 sc, °2 sc in next st, 10’, rep three times from * to *, 2sc in next st, § sc, change to yarn D, 5 sc, scin *2sc in next st, 10 sc’, rep three times from * to*, next st, sc (120 sts), change to yarn E. Round 1: °2 sc in first st, 1 sc*, rep four times from * to *,change to yarn A, *2 sc in next st, 11 sc*, rep four times from’* to * (150 sts), change to yarn B. Round 14:6 sc, "2 sc in next st, 12sc*, rep three times, from * to *, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, change to yarn C, 6 sc, *25c in next st, 12 sc’, rep three times from * to *,2sc in next st, sc (140 sts), change to yarn D. Round 15: "13 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep four times from *to*, change to yarn E, “13 sc, 2sc in next st*, rep four times from * to * (150 sts), change to yarn A. Round 16: 5 sc, °2 sc in next st, 14 sc’, rep three times. from * to *,2sc in next st,9 sc, change to yarn B, 5 sc, *25cin next st, 14 sc*, rep three times from * to *, 2 sc in next st, 95 (160 sts), change to yarn C. Round 17: *2 sc in first st, 15 sc*, rep four times from *to*, change to yarn D, *2 sc in next st, 15 sc*, rep four times from * to * (170 sts), change to yarn E. Round 18:10 sc, *2 sc in next st, sc*, rep three times from * to *, 2c in next st, 6 sc, change to yarn A, 10 sc, *2sc in st,1 sc into next 16 sc*, rep three times from *to*, 25c in next st, 6 sc (180 sts), change to yarn B. Round 19: *17 sc, 2 sc in next st*, repeat four times from *to*, change to yarn C, *17 sc, 2 sc in next st*; rep four times from * to * (190 sts), change to yarn D. Round 20: 5 sc, *2 sc in next st, 18sc*, repeat three times from * to *,2 sc in next st, 15 sc, change to yarn E, 5 sc, °2¢ in next st, 18 sc*; repeat three times from *to*,25¢ in next st, 13 sc (200 sts), change to yarn A. In round 21 increase by 6 stitches instead of 10. Round 21: *31 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep five times from *to* Finish with 8 sc (206 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart on page 30 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident.Please note, this pattern is staggered at the where you startin the chart. The staggering is in yarn A between the flowers, at the point at which each round begins and ends. Here you should work 4 sc in yarn A instead of 2, to finish the round. Starting the crochet chart yarn A, 4 sc in yarn E, rep twice from *. Finish with 2 se inyarn A. Round 2: work 7 sc in yarn A, *6 sc in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn A, 6 scin yarn B, 8 scin yarn A, 2 sc in yarn D, 8se in yarn A, 6 sc in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn A, 6 s¢ in yarn B, 8 scin yarn A, 2 sc in yarn E, 8 sc in A, rep twice ish with 2 sc in yarn A. Now continue by following the chart. Work approximately 44 rounds. from* 30 Hales far the cord Following the description on page 20, make ten holes; four with 16 stitches and six with 17 stitches between the holes, divided as you judge best. i the Fasten off the g off the to the description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. or this bag, pattern three has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours golden brown, pale pink, pale orange and yellow. Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on page 89. Make a drawstring. For this bag, | decided to use the colours pale pink, pale orange and yellow for the braid. Decorate the bag with tassels and/or other colourful decorations. VARIATIONS Replace the golden brown colour with light green, the pink with white, and the bright pink with dark green ‘and your bag becomes a lawn full of daisies!If you've ever been to Portugal, you are sure to have discovered Azulejo, a hand-painted tile that is found both in and on buildings, in many forms and with many different designs. They add a great atmosphere to the streets and alleys. | became increasingly inspired by the designs and felt | had to do something with them. Petrol and beige are two colours that you find on the beaches of the Algarve. There are beautiful shades of blue in the sea - petrol is one of them - and, as it happens, my favourite colour is blue. ‘Combined with beige, the colour of the beach and the rocks, you can create a delightful summer feeling, The green shades are based on the dark, shiny leaves of the cork oak tree. These oaks are grown in Portugal for their cork, as the name suggests. 9 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 2 balls in The chart has a repeat of 50 stitches. This means that apple green (A: 7402), 2 balls in beige (B: 17340), the number of stitches on the base must be divisible by 2 balls in dark green (C: 7409) and 3 balls in 50 for it to match the chart. The pattern is repeated petrol (D: 7421); Scheepjes Larra 50g/137yd/125m five times over 250 stitches. Optional Peacock feather Wooden beads Base diameter is approximately 874in (22cm), height is. approximately tlin (28m) 31INSTRUCTIONS Base Work 5 chains using yarn D and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, Add one length in yarns A, B and C. Round t: work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn (io sts). Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts) Round 3: "2 sc in frst st, 1 sc* (50 sts) Round 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st (40 sts). Round §: *5 sc, 2sc in next st* in yarn D, rep from * to* in yarns A, B, C, D, A, B,C, D, A (50 sts). Round 6: "2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc* in yarn D, rep from * to in yarns A,B, C, D, A,B,C, D, A (60 sts). Round 7: *2 sc in first st, 5 sc* in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, D, A, B, C,D, A (70 sts). Round 8: *3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc* in yarn D, rep from *to tin yarns A, B, C, D, A, B,C, D, A (80 sts). Please note that in round 9 the colours will be moved. Round 9: *7 sc, 2 sc in next st* in yarn B, rep from * to* in yarns C, D, A, B,C, D, A, B, C (90 sts). Round 10: *4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc’ in yarn B, rep from * to * in yarns C, D, A, B, CD, A, B, C (100 st. Round ni: *9 sc, 2 sc in next st* in yarn B, rep from * to * in yarns C, D, A, B,C, D, A, B, C (no sts). Round 12: *5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc* in yarn B, rep from *to tin yarns C, D, A, B, C, D, A, B, C (120 sts) Please note that in round 13 the colours will be moved. Round 13: *2 sc in first st, 11 sc* in yarn A, rep from *to* inyarns D, C, B, A, D, C, B, A, D (130 sts). Round 14: °6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc’ in yarn A, rep from * to * in yarns D, C,B, A, D, CB, A, D (140 st. Round 15: *13 sc, 2 sc in next st* in yarn A, rep from *to *in yarns DC, B, A, D,C, B, A, D (50 sts). Round 16: *7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc*in yarn A, rep from *to tin yarns D, C, B, A, D, C, B, A, D (160 sts) Please note that in round 17 the colours will be moved. Round 17: °2 sc in first st, 15 sc* in yarn B, rep from *to* in yarns A, D, C, B, A, D, C, B, A (170 sts). Round 18: °8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc’ in yarn B, rep from * to * in yarns A, D, C, B, A, D, C, B, A (180 st). Round 19: "17 sc, 2 sc in next st® in yarn B, rep from * to in yarns A, D, C,B, A, D, C, B, A (190 sts). Round 20: *9 sc, 2 sc in next st, 9 sc’ in yarn B, rep from * to * in yarns A, D, C,B, A, D, C,B, A (200 sts). Please note that in round 21 the colours will be moved. Round 21: "2 sc in frst st, 19 sc* in yarn D, rep from *to* in yarns C, B, A, D, C, B, A, D, C (210 sts). Round 22: "10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 10 sc” in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns C, B, A, D, C,B, A, D, C (220 sts). Round 23: *21 sc, 2 sc in next st® in yarn D, rep from *to* in yarns C, B, A, D, C, B, A, D, C (230 sts) Round 24: "1! sc, 2 sc in next st, 11 sc’ in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns C, B, A, D, C, B, A, D, C (240 sts). Round 25: "25 sc, 2 sc in next st” in yarn D (250 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the sectign on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart on page 34 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. 3334 Please note, this pattern is staggered in the first figure after the start of the chart. Round five of the chart does not work in yarn C. The border in yarn C ‘around the figure in yarn B on the chart consists of two rows, both in height and in width. To prevent the figure in yarn B from being uneven, | have crocheted cone row less in height so that the figure in yarn B remains symmetrical. Round 1: work "4 sc in yarn C, 5 sc in yarn D, 4c in yarn, ‘A, 2scin yarn D, 1 scin yarn A, 2c in yarn D, 11 sc in yarn A, 2sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn A, 5 sc in yarn D; rep four times from * Round 2: “4 sc in yarn C, 7 sc in yarn D, 6 sc in yarn A, 4sc'in yarn D, 12 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, 6 sc in yarn A, 7 sc in yarn D; rep four times from *. Finish with 5 sc in yarn D. Now continue by following the chart. Work approximately 60 rounds. Following the description on page 20, make ten holes, with 21 stitches between the holes. Fasten off the bag according to the description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69, For this bag, pattern five has been used for the shoulder strap, using petrol, apple green, beige and dark green yarns. Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag as described on page 89, Make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern two has been used for the drawstring, Using petrol, apple green, and dark green yarns. Decorate the bag with a peacock feather, wooden beads, and/or other colourful decorations. This design also looks very pretty in pastel shades, such as pale pink, mint green and baby blue with a neutral colour. A combination of natural shades also sets off the Azulejo design, possibly with one distinct highlight shade, such as yarn A or B.Have you noticed yet that all the patterns in t! That's because I’m mad about symmetry! book are symmeti While designing this pattern | started with the middle green section and gradually developed a kind of diamond pattern. The colours are a combination of pink and green shades. When | started this design, | had some doubts about whether the chosen colours would look good together. Yes, sometimes | doubt things as welll Now though, | am happy and very satisfied with the colour scheme. If you are unsure of a yarn combination you have chosen, lay out the colours from light to dark, or from dark to light. Now you can easily see if the colours are balanced and, if necessary, you can make changes to the combination, What you will need Pattern repeats 11 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 3 balls in The chart has a repeat of 64 stitches. This silver green (A: 402), 2 balls in deep ocean green (B: 391), means that the number of stitches on the base 2 balls in dark olive (C: 387), 2 balls in old rose (D: 408) must be divisible by 64 for it to match the chart. and 2 balls in rose wine (E: 396); Scheepjes Catona The pattern is repeated five times over s0g/137yd/125m i92stitches. Optional Tassel maker Dimensions Base diameter is approximately 6Yn (17em), height is approximately 9¥4in (25cm).INSTRUCTIONS Base Work § chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Add one length of yarns B, C, D and E. Round t: work 10 sc into the ring, going over the yarn Go sts). Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts) Round 3: *2 sc in first st, 1sc* (50 sts), change to yarn B. Round 4: "2 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to * in yarns C,D,E, A,B,C, D, E, A. There are now 10 boxes with 25sc, 2 sc in next st (40 sts), change to yarn C. Round 5: "1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc*, rep from * to * in yarns D, E, A,B, C, D, E, A, B (50 sts), change to yarn D. Round 6: *2 sc in frst st, 4 sc’, rep from * to* in yarns E,A,B,C, D, E, A,B, C (60sts), change to yarn E. Round 7: "4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, DE, A,B, C, D (70 sts), change to yarn A. Round 8: *6 sc, 2 sc in next st, rep from * to *in yarns B,C, D, E, A,B,C, D, E (6osts), change to yarn B. Round 9: *5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4sc*, rep from * to* in yarns C, D, E, A, B,C, D, E, A (90 sts), change to yarn. Round 10: *2 sc in first st, 8 sc*, rep from * to *in yarns D,E.A,B,C, D, E, A, B (100 sts), change to yarn D. Round 1: *7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2sc*, rep from * to* in yarns E, A, B, C, D,E, A, B, C (io sts), change to yarn. Round 12: "1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 9 sc*, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, D, E, A,B, C, D (120 sts), change to yarn A. Round 13: °6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc’, rep from * to * in yarns B, C, D,E, A, B, C, D,E (130 sts), change to yarn B. Round 14: "12 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from *to* in yarns C, D, E, AnB, C, D, E, A (140 sts), change to yarn C. Round 18: °5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8sc*, rep from * to * in yarns D, E, A, B, C, D, E, A, B (150 sts), change to yarn D. Round 16: "2 sc in frst st,14 sc*, rep from * to * in yarns E, A,B, C, D, E, A,B, C (160 sts), change to yarnE. Round 17: °8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc*, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, D,E, A, B, C, D (170 sts), change to yarn A. Round 18: "14 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc*, rep from * to *in yarns B,C, D, E, A, B, C, D, E (180 sts), change to yarn A. Round 19: using yarn A, “13 sc, 2sc in next st*, rep from * to * until the last 12 sts, finishing with 12 se (ag2 sts). ai38 ‘Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The ‘explanation of the crochet chart below describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. Please note, this pattern is staggered at the point where the first stripe in yarn C divides. At this point, crochet 9 sc in yarn C instead of 10 sc. Starting the crochet chart Round 1: work "10 sc in C, 4 sc in yarn A, 10 sc in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn E, 10 sc inyarn B, 4 sc in yarn E, 4 sc in yarn D, 10 sc in yarn B, 4sc in yarn A, rep twice from *. Round 2: 12 sc in yarn C, "4 se in yarn A, 6 sc in yarn B, 4scin yarn A, 4 scin yarn D, 4 sc in yarn E, 6 sc in yarn B, 4 se in yarn E, 4 sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn A, 6c in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn A, 14 sc in yarn C, rep from *. Finish with 4 sc in yarn A. Round 3:16 sc in yarn C (staggering), from here follow the chart again. Round 4: in this round, the stripe in yarn C divides. Work 9 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn A, 9 sc in yarn C, and then from this point follow the chart. Work approximately 50 rounds. Holes for the cord Following the description on page 20, make ten holes; eight with 15 stitches and two with 16 stitches between the holes, divided as you judge best. Fastening off the Fasten off the gall the bag description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69.For this bag, pattern four has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours silver green, deep ‘ocean green, dark olive, old rose and rose wine. Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on page 89. Make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern one has been used for the drawstring, using the colours old rose and rose wine. Decorate the bag with tassels and/or other colourful decorations. VARIATIONS This pattern is even nicer if you use it to make a larger bag. Increasing the base to 256 stitches means that you can repeat the pattern four times instead of three times. Continue as follows: keep increasing each round by 10 stitches to 250; increase 6 stitches in the last round using yarn A (256 sts); and then start working from the chart. The rest will follow automatically, and there is only one additional pattern repeat needed to crochet the round completely into a circle.LITTLE FLOWERS BAG This pattern has a beautiful but challenging bas: because it rotates from round 10. It creates a nice effect and looks a little like a vortex, but you need to stay alert because at some point the colours overlap each other from one round to the next. To avoid confusion, use a remnant of yarn as a marker. | always use about 7%inches (20cm) so that the yarn does not need to be replaced each time, but can stay where itis. This can be very useful if you need to undo a round or two. Because the thread runs from bottom to top, you can see exactly where the beginning and end point of the round is. 9 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 3 balls in green The chart has a repeat of 28 + 2 stitches. This means (A: 7413), 2 balls in cyclamen pink (B: 7394), 2 balls, that the number of stitches on the base must be in bright blue (C: 7371) and 2 balls in pale pink (D: 7403); divisible by 28, and you will need two extra stitches for Scheepjes Larra 50g/157yd/125m it to turn out nice and neat like the chart. The pattern is repeated seven times over 196 stitches + 2 stitches, Dimensions making a total of 198 stitches. Base diameter is approximately 7in (18cm), height is approximately 8/in (21cm). TIP Ifyou make sure that the first two rows of the crochet chart are correct, then you do not have to count the rest of the chart, since you can see how it develops. 39INSTRUCTIONS Base Work 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Add one length of yarns B, C and D. Round : work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn Gosts) Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3:1 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 1 sc, 2s¢ in next stin yarn B, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn C, 1 sc, 2 scin next st* in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns A, B,C, D, A, finishing with 1 sc, 2s in next st in yarn C (30 st). Round 4:21 sc, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 cin next st, 2c in yarn B, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn C, *2 sc in next st, 2sc* in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, D, A.C (40 sts). Round 5: 5 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 3 sc, 2c in next st in yarn B, 3 sc, 2c in next st in yarn C, "3 5c, 2.sc in next st* in yarn D, rep from * to *in yarns A, B, C,D.A, C (50 sts). Round 6: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st,2c in yarn A, 2 sc, 2c i next st, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2sc in yarn ,"2'sc, 2c im next st, 2'sc* in yarn D, rep from* to* in yarns A, B, C, D, A, C (60 sts). Round 7:2 sc in first st, sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st, 58c in yarn B, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc in yarn C, *2 scin rnext st, 5 sc* in yarn D, rep from * to * in yarns A, B, C, D,A,C (70 sts). Round 8: *3 sc, 2c in next st, 3c in yarn A, rep from * to" in yarns B, C, D, A,B, C, D, A, C (80 sts). Round 9: °7 sc, 2 sc in next st* in yarn A. rep from *to* in yarns B, C, D, A, B, C,D, A, C (90 sts). From here the pattern of the bottom ‘rotates’ keeping the same colour sequence (A, B,C, D, A,B, C, D, A, C) as in the previous rounds. Round 10: 2 s¢ in yarn C, *2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc” in yarn A, rep from * to” in sequence set, finishing with 2, 2c in next st, 4 sc in yarn C (100 sts). Round ni: 4 sc in yarn C, °5sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 5c, 2 sc in next st in yarn C (no sts) Round 12:6 sc in yarn C, "2 sc in next st, 10 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 2 sc in next st, 4 sc in yarn C (120 sts). Round 13:8 sc in yarn C, *3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 3,2 sc in next st in yarn C (130 sts). Round 14: 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3c in yarn C, *9 sc, 28¢ in next st, 3 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 3 sc in yarn C (140 sts). Round 15: 15 sc in yarn C, *2 sc in next st, 13 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 2 sc in last st in yarn C (150 sts). Round 16: 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7c” in yarn C, rep from * to * in sequence set (160 sts). Round 17:15 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2sc in yarn C, "13 sc, 2c in next st, 2 sc* in yarn A, rep from * to sequence set, finishing with 13 sc, 2s¢ in last st in yarn A (70 sts). Round 18: 2 sc in yarn A, 7 sc, 2 5c in next st, 11 sin yarn C, *5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 11 sc* in yarn A, rep from *to* in sequence set, finishing with 5 sc, 2 sc in next st,7 scin yarn A (180). Round 19: 2 sc in first st, 3 sc in yarn A, 14 sc, 2s¢ in next st,5 sc in yarn C, "12 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc’ yarn A, rep from * to * in sequence set, finishing with 11sc, 2 in lat st in yarn A (190). In round 20 increase by 8 stitches instead of 10. Round 20: 7 sc in yarn A, 15 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 cin yarn C,17 sc, 28¢ in next st in yarn A, 20 sc in yarn B, 2c, 2 sc in next st, 16 c in yarn C, 6 sc, 2c in next st, 12 in yarn D, 10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc in yarn A, 14 sc,2 sc in next st, 4 sc in yarn B, 19 sc in yarn C, 2s in next st, 18 sc in yarn D, 11 sc, 2 sc in last st in yarn A (198 sts). Round 21:1 sc in each st in yarn A (198 sts). AlWork from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart below describes, how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. Staggering Please note, this pattern is staggered in the first complete diainond shepe above the starting point of the chart. The upper part ofthe diamond contains two extra stitches, which allows you to balance the ciuenondlitealt Starting the crochet chart Round 1: work *2 sc in yarn C, 4 sc in yarn A, 6 sc in yarn B,2 scin yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D, 2 s¢ in yarn C, 6s in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn A, rep six times from * Round 2: this round starts 2 sc earlier; work *2 sc in yarn C, 2 scin yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 4 sc in yarn A, 4c in yarn B, 6 scin yarn C, 4 sc in yarn B, 4 sc in yarn A, rep six times from * Now continue by following the chart. Work approximately 48 rounds. Following the description on page 20, make ten holes; ‘eight with 16 stitches and two with 15 stitches between the holes, divided as you judge best i the Fasten off the gol the to the description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern one has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours green, cyclamen pink, bright blue and pale pink Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on page 89. Make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern four has been used for the drawstring, using the colours cyclamen pink, bright blue and pale pink. Decorate the bag to your liking using colourful decorations. VARIATIONS Would you prefer to crochet a mini mochila? You can easily customize this pattern to make a smaller design This is easy to do if you use a shorter pattern repeat of 28 stitches. Take, for example, five pattern repeats: 5x 28 = 140 stitches. Add two more stitches to make it right and then you need a total of 142 stitches. Follow the description of the base to round 14 and then increase by 2 stitches in round 15 until you reach the correct number of stitches. Start at the starting point on the crochet chart and repeat this four times instead of sixPLAIN & GLITTER STRIPES BAG The great thing about making a plain bag is that you can decorate it with pompoms, tassels, feathers, beads and, of course, the shoulder strap. This stands out even more than usual because the bag is plain. Choose colours that complement the colours of the bag and find a pretty pattern for the split braiding. One fun variation on this plain bag is ‘glitter stripes’: for every sixth round, crochet using glitter yarn and this will give the bag a whole different look. These designs seem easy to start with, but nothing could be further from the truth. It is much more difficult to keep the thread tension even. Additional information about this is provided in the explanation of the pattern repeat. What you will need Stripes With glitter stripes 8 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 5 balls in marine 5 balls in Scheepjes fingering (4-ply) Larra bright blue blue (A: 7370), 1 ball in cyclamen pink (B: 7394), 1 ball in (A: 7371) pink (C: 7441) and 1 all in golden brown (D: 7419); 2 balls in Scheepjes fingering (4-ply) Lizzy gold (8: 03) Scheepjes Larra Sog/137yd/125m Optional Colours used on the sample images page 20 Pompom maker (holes for the drawstring) 1¥/or (50g) Scheepjes Merino Soft matisse (635) for 8 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn; 5 balls in lemon the pompoms chiffon (100), 1 ballin ultra violet (282), 1 ballin light Feathers orchid (226) and 1 ball in vintage peach (414) Wooden beads Scheepjes Catona 509/137yd/125mPatten With this plain pattern, you will need to change from the yarn in yarn A every 10 to 15 stitches in order to maintain the correct thread tension. The carried yarns ensure the thread tension. If the carried yarns run tighter, the side moves inwards; if the carried yarns run looser, the side moves outwards. This will create an unintended wavy effect. If you are working on the bag with glitter stripes, work in glitter yarn every sixth round. Just as with the plain bag, in the remaining rounds you will need to change from the yarn in yarn A every 10 to 15 stitches, in order to maintain the right thread tension. Make sure that you do not pull the glitter yarn over your hook too tightly as it is slightly thinner than the cotton yarn being used, Dimensions Stripes Base diameter is approximately 7/in (t9cm), height is approximately 8/4in (2Icm). With glitter stripes Base diameter is approximately 6%in (17cm), height is approximately 7in (18cm). INSTRUCTIONS Base Work 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. For the plain base, add three lengths of yarn A; for the glitter stripes, two lengths of yarn A and one length of yarn B. Round 1: work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn (io sts). Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc* (30 sts). Round 4: *2 sc, 2 sc into next st* (40 sts). Round 5: *2 sc in first st, 3 sc* (50 sts). For glitter stripes, change to yarn B. Round 6:2 sc, 2 in next st, °4 sc, 2sc in next st? rep from * to * until last 3 sts, finishing with 2 sc (60 sts) For glitter stripes, change to yarn A. Round 7: *2 sc in first st, 5 sc* (70 sts). TIP Crocheting with a dark coloured yarn is a challenge in itself because the stitches are much more difficult to see. If you are a beginner to this technique, opt for the lighter colours. Round 8: 3 sc, 2sc in next st, “6 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to * until last 3 sts, 3 sc (80 sts). Round 9: °7 sc, 2 sc in next st* (90 sts). Round 10: 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, °8 sc, 2 sc in next st* rep from * to * until last 4 sts, 4 sc (100 sts). Round ni: *2 sc in first st, 9 sc” (iio sts). For glitter stripes, change to yarn B. Round 12:5 sc, 2 sc in next st, “10 sc, 2sc in next st’ rep from * to * until last 5 sts, 5 sc (120). For glitter stripes, change to yarn A. Round 13: "1 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to* to end (30 sts), Round 14: 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 12 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to * until last 6 sts, 6 sc (140 sts). Round 15: "15 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to* to end (050 sts). Round 16: 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, ‘14 sc, 2sc in next st*, rep from * to * until last 7 sts, 7 sc (160 sts). Round 17: "2 sc in first st,15 sc’, rep from * to* (70 sts). For glitter stripes change to yarn B. Round 18: 8 sc, 2 sc in next s rep from * to * until last 8 sts, 8 sc (180 sts). For glitter "6 sc, 2 sc in next st", stripes, change to yarn A. Round 19: "17 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep from * to * to end, (90 sts) Round 20: 9 sc, 2 sc in next st, 18 sc, 2 sc in next st’, rep from * to * to last 9 sts, 9 sc (200 sts). ATFor the plain bag, there is no chart. You can continue to crochet in the same way without increasing. If crocheting the bag with glitter stripes, work from the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, 80 you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart below describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. Staggering Please note, this pattern is staggered for the bag with aliter stripes atthe point where you start and end the rows, s in the base description. tis important that you pay attention to changing colours at the right point. if this does not happen, the staggered stitches will not sit neatly above each other. Starting the crachet chart If you are crocheting the plain bag, remember to change thread every 10 to 15 stitches to maintain the right thread tension (gauge). Work approximately 45 rounds. If crocheting the glitter stripe bag, use glitter thread every sixth round. Work approximately 40 rounds. Following the description on page 20, make ten holes, with 16 stitches between the holes. ts the Fastening ot he Cos page 21. For the plain bag, make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern six has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on For the plain bag, make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern two has been used for and golden brown. For the bag with glitter stripes, make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern two has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours bright blue and gold. Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on Make a drawstring for the bag with glitter stripes. For this bag, | decided to use light blue and gold for the braid. beads or other colourful decorations.CROSS BAG Crocheting a mochila in a dark colour is quite a challenge. A combination of small stitches, crocheting in the back loops and black yarn means that it is tricky to see the stitches. | have only ever worked on this bag in daylight, but | love the end resul With this design | had to increase by 15 stitches instead of 10 from round 21 because the base, after several attempts, realy started to bulge. If the base is still quite flat when you reach round 20, then keep increasing by 10 stitches as in previous rounds Adjusting the base itself is not very difficult in this design because itis basically divided into 10 sections. If you add more than one stitch to each section, make sure you do not get confused. What you will need Pattern repeats 11balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 4 balls in black The chart has a repeat of 100 stitches. This means that (A: 7325), 3 balls in yellow (B: 7380), 2 balls in apple the number of stitches from the base must be divisible green (C: 7402) and 2 balls in bright blue (D: 7371) by 100 for it to turn out correctly with the chart. The Scheepjes Larra 50g/137yd/125m pattern is repeated three times over 300 stitches. Dimensions Base diameter is approximately 9%in (24cm), height is approximately ¥ ‘in (Sem).INSTRUCTIONS Base Work 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to forma ring Add one length of yarns B, C and D. Round 1: work 10 sc into the ring, going over the yarn (io sts), Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3: *2 sc in first st,1 sc* (50 sts) Round 4:°2 sc in first st, 2 sc* (40 sts). Round 5: rep from "5 sc, 2 8c in next st in yarn A, 3 sc in yarn D* * to end (50 sts) Round 6: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st,2 sc in yarn C*, rep from * to* to-end (60 sts) Round 7:°5 sc, 2 s¢ in next st in yarn A, 5 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (70 sts). Round 8: °3 sc, 2c in next st, 3 se in yarn A, 3 sc, 2 s¢ in next st,3 sc in yarn D', rep from * to * toend (ots). Round 9: *7 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 7 sc, 2 cin next st in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (90 sts). Round 10: “4 sc, 2sc in next st, 4 sc in yarn A, 4 sc, 2 s¢ in next st, 4 sc in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end Goo sts) Round next st in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (nto sts). Round 12: "5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc in yarn A, § sc, 2 sc *9 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 9 sc, 2.sc in in next st, 5 sc in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (020 sts). Round 15: next st in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (130 sts), 1 sc, 2'sc in next st in yarn A, 1 sc, 2 sc in Round 14: °6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc in yarn A, 6 sc, 2.5¢ in next st, 6 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (40 sts). Round 15: *2 sc in first st, 13 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st 138c in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (150 sts).52 Round 16: *7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc in yarn A, 7 sc, 2 sc in next st,7 sc in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (060 sts). Round 17: "15 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn A, 15 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (170 sts). Round in next st, 8 sc in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (80 sts). Round 19: *2 sc in first st, 17 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st. 17 sc in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (190 sts). :*8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc in yarn A, 8 sc, 2s Round 20: *9 sc, 2 sc in next st, 9 sc in yarn A, 9 sc, 2c in next st, 9 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (200 sts). In round 21 up to and including round 26, increase by 15 sts instead of 10 Round scin yarn A, 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 14 sc in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (215 sts). Round 22: *10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 11 sc in yarn A, 2 sc, "2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 14 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 2c in next st, 15 sc, 2 5c in next st, 2 sc in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (230 sts). Round 23: "4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 13 sc, 2 sc in next st, ‘4scin yarn A, 11 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1'sc in yarn D*, rep, from * to * to end (245 sts). Round 24: 12 sc, 2 sc in next st, 12 sc in yarn A, 4 Sc, 2c in next st, 14 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc in yarn C’, rep from * to * to end (260 sts) Round 25: *5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 14 sc, 2 sc in next st 5.scin yarn A, 13 sc, 2 sc in next st, 12 sc in yarn B", rep from * to * to end (275 sts). Round 26: “13 sc, 2 sc in next st, 14 sc in yarn A, 2, 2sc in next st, 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn B*, rep from * to * to end (290 sts) In round 27 increase by 10 stitches. Round 27: "10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 18 sc in yarn A, 10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 18 sc in yarn C*, rep from * to * to end (300 sts). Round 28: using yarn A, work 1sc in each st (300 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart on page 54 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident.Staggering Please note, this pattern is staggered at the point at which you startin the chart. The second round of the chart begins earlier than expected. In the first pattern repeat, ou miss these 2 stitches, thereby shifting the pattern. There are plenty of stitches in yarn A, which allows you to centre the image. Make sure that there are as many stitches in yarn A on both sides of the cross image so that the staggering is less noticeable Starting the crachet chart Round 1: work *2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 20 se in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 7 sc in yarn D,2 sc in yarn B, 2 scin yarn C, 12 sc in yarn D, 2 sein yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 7 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn C, 20 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 6 sc in yarn A, rep from *. Finish with 6 sc in A. Round 2: work 2 sc in yarn A, *2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn B, 18 sc in yarn A, 2sc in yarn C, 7 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn B, 7 sc in yarn C,2scin yarn D, 7 se in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn D, 7 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn C, 18 sc in yarn A, 2.sc in yarn B,2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn B, 10 sc in yarn A, rep from * Now continue by following the chart. Work approximately 78 rounds. Holes for the card Following the description on page 20 make ten holes, with 26 stitches between the holes Fe is the Tesleeing oot ee page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern two has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours black, yellow, apple green and light blue. Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on Make a drawstring, which is the type of cord made using a drill and not a kumihimo disk, as described on. colour for the drawstring. colourful decorations. VARIATIONS Do you want to create this design, but are not sure about using black? Then simply replace the colours with fresh spring shades! For example, use sand (7410) for yarn A, pale pink (7403) for yarn B, turquoise (07338) for yarn C and cool green (7398) for yarn D. These are great colours for a large bag that also doubles up perfectly as a beach bag in the summer.FLAMINGO BAG lonce saw flamingos flying in the wild. Wow, what an experience that was! If I close my eyes, | can visualize them again, flying... the beautiful pink colour, the crazy curved beaks and their long legs. It made such a huge impression on me that a flamingo bag was simply inevitable! This design has an oval base, which is a different model from the other bags in the book. The base is kept simple so that you can create it quite easily, without needing to pay too much attention to the yarn changes. Besides, | don't think that such a beautiful flamingo design needs a distinctive base pattern. What you will need 7 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 3 balls in light sand (A: 7430), 1 ballin black (B: 7525), 1 ball in grey (C: 7407) and 2 balls in pink (D: 7442); Scheepjes Larra 50g/137yd/i25m Leather shoulder strap (De Haakfabriek) ‘Two magnet closures Optional Tassel maker Feathers Wooden beads Pattern repeats The chart has a repeat of 88 stitches. This means that the number of stitches from the base must be divisible by 88 fort to match the chart. The pattern is repeated two times over 176 stitches. Note that, inthis pattern, the flamingos are crocheted so that their backs st each other and they both ook inthe same direction. Dimensions Base diameter is approximately 9Yin (24cm) and 2in (5cm) wide; height is approximately 12%in (Stem). 55Work 60 chains using yarn A. ‘Add one length of yarns B, C and D. Round 1: work 5 sc in first chain from hook, 1 sc into the next 58 chains, 6 sc into the next chain. Work from here on the other side of the chain, 58 sc, 3 sc into the same chains as the first 5 sc (128 sts). Round 2: work 2 sc into each of next 3 sts, 58 sc, 2 sc into each of next 6 sts, 58 sc, 2 sc into each of next 3sts (140 sts) Round 3: °2 sc in first st, 1 sc’, rep twice from *to®, 58 sc, *2 sc in next st, 1sc*, rep five times from * to 58 sc, "2 sc in next st, sc’, rep twice from * to* (052 sts). Round 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next st", rep twice from * to*, 58 sc, "2 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep five times from * to, 58 sc, *2 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep twice from * to * (164 sts), Round 5: °3 sc, 2 sc in next st’, rep twice from * to *, 58 sc, "3 sc, 2 sc in next st*, rep five times from * to *, 58 sc, *3 sc, 2 sc in next st", rep twice from * to* (176 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart below describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident.Please note, the pattern is staggered at the point at which you start in the chart. In this pattern, you do not have to pay much attention to whether the staggering is correct, because itis all in yarn A and will therefore not be noticeable. Round 1: work 22 se in yarn A, 132 sc in yarn D, 22 sc in yarn A Round 2: 21 sc in yarn A, 134 sc in yarn D, 21 sc in yarn A. Round 3: 21 sc in yarn A, 19 sc in yarn D, 10 sc in yarn ‘A, 76 sc in yarn yarn D, 10 sc in yarn A, 19 sc in yarn D, 21 sc in yarn A. Continue to work as shown in the chart Work approximately 69 rounds. This design uses two magnet closures instead of drawstring, This is because, otherwise, the bag will pull the design out of shape when you close it. For an oval bag, you can also choose to use a zip closure. Sew the magnetic closures in the middle of the long sides of the bag, Fasten off the bag according to the description on page 21. Attach the leather shoulder strap to the sides of the bag, Take a cotton yarn thread and a sharp needle, and use the holes at both ends of the shoulder strap to stitch it to the back. Decorate the bag to your liking using colourful decorations. Would you like to create a plain oval bag? Now you can! Use the description of the base for the flamingo bag and use the chart as itis. Just as with the Plain & Glitter Stripes pattern, change the yarn every 10-15, stitches to keep the thread tension even.TRADITIONAL BAG It was a similar design to this one that inspired me to start exploring the technique of crocheting Wayuu mochilas. It was a bag with bright colours and beautiful clear lines in the pattern. Although this is not the design | started with myself, | think this version is a great addition to the book, precisely because of that symbolic start! I chose these warm colours to give the bag an autumnal appearance. | think the start cof autumn is a wonderful time and it is one of my favourite seasons. Purple and cherry red remind me of the late summer; they are the colours of plums and the rosy cheeks of ripe apples in the orchards. The red and brown shades can be found in the colours of the leaves and mushrooms in the forest. A perfect combination! What you will need aes T1balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: Larra: 3 balls in dark brown (A: 741), 2 balls in brown (B: 7428), 2 balls in wine red (C: 7415); Catona: 2 balls in Helio (D: 128) and 2 balls in cherry (E: 413); Scheepjes Larra/Catona 50g/137yd/125m Colours used on the sample images page 21 (fastening off the bag) page 89 (attaching the shoulder strap) ‘1 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn; 3 balls in dark olive (A: 387), 2 balls in lemon chiffon (B: 100), 2 balls in chrystalline (C: 385), 2 balls in deep ocean green (D: 391) and 2 balls in apple green (E: 389): Scheepjes Catona 509/137yd/125m Optional Pompom maker ‘Yer (50g) Scheepjes Merino Soft in rothko (623) for the pompoms Pattern The chart has a repeat of 58 stitches. This means that the number of stitches from the base must be divisible by 58 for it to turn out correctly. The pattern is repeated four times over 232 stitches. Dimensions Base diameter is approximately 8%/in (21cm), height is approximately 8%in (22cm). 59Work 5 chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. ‘Add one length of yarns B, C, D and E. Round 1: work 10 sc in the ring going over the yarn Go sts). Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3: *2 sc in first st, 1sc*, rep from * to * to end (sosts), Round 4: *2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (40 sts) Round 5: *2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in yarn DY, rep from * to * to end (50 sts). Round 6: *2 sc in yarn A,1 sc into next 2sts, 2 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (60 sts) Round 7: *2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (70 sts). Round 8: *2 sc in yarn A, 2s¢ in yarn D, 2 sc in next st in yarn C, 2c in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (Bo sts). Round 9: *2 sc in yarn A, 2c in yarn D, 2 sc in next st 1 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (Gost). Round 10: *2 sc in yarn A, 2sc in yarn D, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (00 sts).62 Round ni: "2 sc in yarn A, 2c in yarn D,1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D’, rep from * to* to end (nto sts). Round 12: 2 sc in yarn A, 2c in yarn D, 3 sc, 2sc in next st, 1sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to end (120 sts). Round 15: 1c, 2 sc in next st, 1sc in yarn A, *2 sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn D, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc innnext st,2 sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to last st,1 se in yarn A (130 sts). Round 14: 5 sc, 2 sc, 1sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 scin yarn D, "4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn D, 2s in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn D*, rep from * to * to last 2 sts, 2 sc in yarn A (140 sts), Round 18: 2 sc, 6 sc in yarn A, *4 sc in yarn D, 2 sc,2 sc in next st, 7 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3scin yarn A (150 sts). Round 16: 2 sc in yarn A, *2 sc in yarn E, 5 sc in yarn A, 4 scin yarn D, 5 sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to last 3sts, 3c in yarn A (160 sts). Round 17: 2 sc in yarn A, *2 sc, 1 sc in yarn E, § sc in yarn A, 4 scin yarn D, 5 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (170 sts) Round 18: 2 sc in yarn A, *2 sc, sc in yarn E, 5 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, § sc in yarn A*, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (180 st). Round 19:2 sc in yarn A, "1c, 2 sc in next st, 2 scin yarn, 5 scin yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, 5 sein yarn At, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (190 sts). Round 20: 2 sc in yarn A, *2sc in yarn E, 2 sc in next st in yarn B, 2 scin yarn E, 5 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, 5scin yarn At, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (200sts). Round 21: 2 sc in yarn A, *2sc in yarn E,1 sc, 2 scin yarn B, 2 sc in yarn E, 5 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, 5 s¢ in yarn AY, (210 sts). Round 22: 2 sc in yarn A, "1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc in ep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A yam E, 5 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, § sc in yarn AY, rep from * to * to last 5 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (220 sts). Round 23: 13 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in yarn A, "4 sc in yarn D, 16 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sin yarn A*, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 3 sc in yarn A (230 sts). In round 24 increase by 2 stitches instead of 10 Round 24: using yarn D, 2 sc in next st, 14 sc, 2c in next st, 114 sc (232 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The ‘explanation of the crochet chart on page 63 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident. Please note, this pattern is staggered to the left of the starting point, in the middle of the cross pattern. To make sure the pattern is even nicer, leave 2 sc in yarn A at the top left, before you start working on the lines in the following section,Starting the crochet chart Round 1: work 4 sc in yarn A, *4 sc in yarn E, 4 sc in yara D, 6 scin yarn C, 4 sc in yarn D, 4scin yarn E, 6s inyarn A, 3 scin yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B,2sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A, 3 sc in yarn B, 6 scin yarn A, rep from * to last 2 sts. Finish with 2 sein yarn A Round 2: *2 sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn E, 4 cin yarn D, 2 in yarn C, 4 sc in yarn D, 4 sc in yarn E, 4 sc in yarn A, 2sc in yarn D, 2 in yarn A, 3 sc in yarn B,2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 scin yarn A, 2 sc in yarn B,2 sc in yarn A, 2s¢ in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A, 2c in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A, 3 sc in yarn B,2scin A, rep from*. Work approximately 43 rounds. the Fasten off the glk the to the descrip page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69.For this bag, pattern three has been used for the shoulder strap, using dark brown, brown, wine red, helio and cherry yarn: Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on page 89. Make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern two has been used for the drawstring, using dark brown, wine red and cherry yarns. Decorate the bag with pompoms or other colourful decorations. VARIATIONS youwih you cn create the star inthe mide ofIn this design, the symmetrical lines particularly stand out above and below the neutral line with the pink diamonds, because the black yarn accentuates the pattern. This is a wonderful and challenging pattern where | have made use of three neutral colours and one stand-out colour. When you look at the bag, the pink really catches your attention! This pattern has a challenging base, because the many yarn changes mean itis difficult to keep the base neat and flat. When changing the colour, pay attention that you do not tighten the carried yarn too much 2a, more often than not, it will cause the base to warp. Are you finding it really difficult to keep your base flat? One solution to this could be increasing each round by 12 instead of 10 stitches right from the start. {At the round at which your base begins to warp, you could also increase by 15 stitches instead of 10, just like round 21 of the Cross pattern (see page 52). However, you will find it trickier to do with this pattern because it is designed to be increased by 10 stitches per row. The extra stitches cannot be put in simply anywhere without the pattern shifting or being pulled out of context. 12 balls of fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn: 4 balls in jet black (110), 2 balls in metal grey (242), 3 balls in champagne (248) and 3 balls in shocking pink (ni; Scheepjes Catona 509/137yd/125m Optional Pompom maker Yor (50g) of Scheepjes Merino Soft in pollock (600), lowry (604) and matisse (635) for the pompoms The chart has a repeat of 36 stitches. This means that the number of stitches from the base must be divisible by 36 for it to turn out, correctly. The pattern is repeated seven times over 252 stitches. Base diameter is approximately gin (23cm), height is approximately 1o¥%in (27em).66 INSTRUCTIONS Base Work § chains using yarn A and join with a slip stitch to forma ring. ‘Add one length of yarns B, C and D. Round 1: work 10 sc into the ring going over the yarn Qo sts) Round 2: 2 sc in each st (20 sts). Round 3: *2 sc in first st, 1sc sc*, rep from * to * to end (50), change to yarn C. Round 4: *2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in next st in yarn A’, rep from * to * to end (40 sts) Round 5: *2 sc in yarn C, 1c, sc in next st in yarn AY rep from * to * to end (50 sts). Round 6: *2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn rep from * to * to end (60 sts). Round 7: *2 sc in yarn C, 2s¢, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to end (70 sts). Round 8: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc in next st in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to end (ost). Round 9: *2 sc in yarn C, 2sc in yarn A,1 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to end (90 sts). Round 10: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn D, 2sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to end (100 sts). Round 1: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st,1 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn AY, rep from * to * to end (No sts). Round 12: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn D, 2:sc in next st in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn rep from * to * to end (120 sts). Round 13: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 4 $c, 2c in next st,1 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to end (130 sts). Round 14: *2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in next st, 10 sc in yarn 1%, rep from * to * to end (140 sts). Round 15: *15 sc, 2 sc in next st in yarn C’, rep from * to * to end (150 sts). Round 16: *2 sc in yarn C, 4 sc, 2sc in next st in yarn A, 2.sc in yarn C, 6 sc in yarn AY, rep from * to * to end (60 sts), Round 17: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn D, 2sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in next st, 1sc in yarn B, 2sc in yarn A*, rep from * to * to end (70 sts). Round 18: *2 sc in yarn C, 2s¢ in yarn A, 2 sc in next st 1 se in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 scin yarn C, 2 sc in yarn ‘A,35c in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to end (80 sts). Round 19: 2 sc in yarn C, 2s¢ in yarn A, 3 sc in yarn D, 2c in yarn A, 2s¢ in yarn C, 2c in yarn A,1 sc, 2 sc in next st,1sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn AY, rep from * to * to end (190 sts). Round 20: *2 sc in yarn C, 28¢ in yarn A, 1c, 2 sc in next st,1 sc in yarn D, 2 se in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 2 se in yarn A, 4 scin yarn B, 2 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to end (200 sts). Round 21: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 4 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn A, 2sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn A, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn At, rep from * to * to end (210 sts) Round 22: *2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st,1 sc in yarn D, 2 se in yarn A, 2sc in yarn C, 2 se in yarn A, 5c in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn A‘, rep from * to* to end (220 sts).Round 23: "2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A 5 sc in yarn D, 2 scin yarn A, 2sc in yarn C, 2 sc in yarn A, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st,18¢ in yarn B, 2 sc in yarn AY, rep from * to" to end (230 sts). Round 24: "2 sc in yarn C, 28¢ in yarn A, 1c, 2 sc in next st,3 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 2c in yarn A, 6 scin yarn B, 2 sc in yarn AY, rep from * to * to end (240 sts). Round 25: *2 sc in yarn C, 10 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc in yarn A’, rep from * to * to end (250 sts) In round 26 increase by 2 stitches to instead of 1. Round 26: using yarn C, 50 sc, 2 sc in next st, 125 sc, 2 sc in next st, 73 sc (252 sts). Work from here onwards using the chart. First, have a look at the section on staggering, so you can learn how to make the end result nice and neat. The explanation of the crochet chart on page 68 describes how to work the first rounds. The rest should be self-evident.68 Staggering Please note, this pattern is staggered at the point at which you start in the chart. In the first section, with the half diamond figure, you cannot get rid of the 5 sc in yarn A, as shown on the chart. To make this work, | have replaced these stitches by 2 sc in yarn A and then 7 sc in yarn C. The staggering shifts to the right and becomes visible in the black part between the two pink stripes. Starting the crochet chart Round i “work 8 sein yarn , 28 sin yarn C, rep six times from *. Round 2: 1 sc in yarn C, *6 sc in yarn D, 2 sc in yarn C, 26 sc in yarn A, 2 sc in yarn C, rep six times from * and finish with 1 sc in yarn C. Work approximately 60 rounds Holes (or the cord Following the description on page 20, make ten holes; eight with 21 stitches and two with 22 stitches between the holes, divided as you judge best. Fastening off the Fasten off the pots to the description on page 21. Make a shoulder strap, as described on page 69. For this bag, pattern five has been used for the shoulder strap, using the colours jet black, metal grey, champagne and shocking pink Fasten the shoulder strap to the bag, as described on page 89, Make a drawstring, as described on page 92. For this bag, pattern two has been used for the draw strap, Using the colours jet black, champagne and shocking pink Decorate the bag with pompoms or other colourful decorations. VARIATIONS Not a fan of bright pink? Then replace this colour with a pastel shade, like mint green or lilac, for a neutral and calming effect. ‘Add your own, surprising twist to the yarn combination - nothing is too crazy! love seeing what yarn combinations people come up with as, every now and then, | come across a combination that | would never have put together myself, but looks really cool! Besides, if you decide to Use your own colours, it makes your bag more personal and truly unique.MAKING THE SHOULDER STRAP The technique of ply-split braiding is called different things in different languages. This fun technique ha: in the northwest of India. Traditionally, the men spun goat hair and then made cords from the spun threads. They used these cords to make handles, bags, straps and even neck decorations for their camels. In this technique, you pull cords through other cords that have been split. In essence, you are actually braiding through the cords. It all sounds a bit complicated, but it is not that difficult! Before you can actually begin split braiding, the cords need to be twisted. You can use the same yarn that is used for the bags, so your shoulder strap will always match the bag! Itis important that the cords to be twisted have four threads in them. There are various options for twisting cords and | will explain the two methods that | use. The ‘already have everything at home’ way This is the way | twisted my cords when | was just starting with split braiding. The big advantage is that you do not need to buy specific equipment, so you can try it out first to see if you like the technique. What you will need is yarn, scissors, a measuring tape, adhesive tape, something heavy (like a bunch of keys), a drill (or mixer) and a door handle. Make sure that your yarn is not too short, as inserting a new cord is not easy to do neatly. That is why it is important that your cords are long enough. Personally, | always use yarn between 8%yd (8m) and niyd (tom) in length, and | have never had a cord that has been too short. TIP With ply-split braiding it is important that you tighten the pulled cord well, so you prevent any bumps or unevenness ‘occurring on the side of the shoulder strap. 6970 Proceed as follows: + Cut the yarn to length, between 8Y%yd (8m) and yd (1om). +Place both ends together and find the middle of the yarn. + Tie a knot in the middle so that a loop is formed. You now have two threads of between 4%yd (4m) and hyd (5m) in length. Put the loop around the door handle, making sure that the loop cannot fall of. fake one end of the yarn and place it in the drill chuck (where the drill bit normally goes) and turn the head tightly. + Hold both ends tightly, but not so tight that there is tension in them. + Make sure that the yarns cannot touch each other while being twisted, Make sure that the drill (or mixer) turns in the right direction - clockwise - as the yarn is supposed to twist more tightly together and not apart. Many drills can turn in both directions! + Use the drill to twist the yarn for approximately one and a half minutes so that tension is added to the yarn, Count the time, or use a stopwatch, so that you know how long the yarn has been twisted for. To get itis important that both threads are twisted for the same length of time. How long you need to twist the yarn for will depend upon how many revolutions the drill makes, so there will be a little bit of trial and error. The longer you twist the yarn, the more tension you add, and the tighter your cords will become. + Remove the yarn from the drill chuck and hold it ht. You do not want to let it go loose because you will lose the tension again + Put the other end of the thread in the drill chuck and twist the threads for the same length as time as the first ones. «Remove the yarn from the drill chuck and take both tends together. Keep holding the yarn tightly! + Put the bunch of keys over the yarn and look for the middle. + Remove the loop from the door handle. Make sure that tension remains in the yarn otherwise it will all twist together. | like to keep one arm as high as possible and then I stand on the yarn halfway before I take the yarn off the door handle. + Grasp all of the ends together and keep the bunch of keys off the ground. To do this, you may need to stand on a chair or stool and then the yarn will ‘automatically twist. + Put adhesive tape over the ends, then roll around the cord so that the cord curls up in a similar way to ashoelace. + Tape the cord just behind the key ring and cut off the bunch of keys. + IF everything has gone to plan, you will now have a cord with four threads, with a length of approximately 2/yd (2m). It will take litle bit of time spent on trial and error to ‘ensure that the cords are nice and even; for this, itis particularly important that both threads are twisted for the same length of time. If you do not do this, the threads will be under different tensions and the cord will not be even. That said, we are doing this manually, s0 | do not mind if there is the odd blip in my cord. | just see it as an extra challenge!Using a cord maker ‘A cord maker is a handy tool for twisting cords - you can make one yourself or buy one online. The great advantage of a cord maker is that it takes less time to twist, and the cords will all be under the same tension, ensuring that they will be even. For this method, you need a small board with four hooks so that you can stretch the yarn between the cord maker and the board. It works best if the hooks are attached on the board using the same dimensions as are on the cord maker. Using a clamp, fix the board to something such as a door handle ‘What you will need is yarn, scissors, a tape measure, adhesive tape, a drill, a small board with four hooks, a clamp (screw clamp or spring clamp) and a door handle. Proceed as follows + Cut the yarn to length - four threads of the same length - between 2%yd (2.5m) and 3/4yd (3m). + Using a clamp, fix the board with the four hooks on it to door handle, for example, and make sure that the board is firmly in place. + Place the cord maker in the drill chuck. + Take a thread and make a loop in the end, then put the loop on the hook of the board. + Make a loop in the other end of the yarn and put it around the hook of the cord maker, making sure you do this around the opposite hook on the board. + Do this with the three remaining threads. + Once the yarn is fixed - not crossed over each other, but neatly opposite - you can start twisting, + Hold the cord maker so that it does not turn itself, but only the hooks on the cord maker are turning, + Twist the yarn for about 45 seconds. +Release the cord maker to allow the whole thing to rotate, so that the cord is now being twisted together. Do this for about half a minute. + Stick down the end that is attached to the cord maker with adhesive tape. + Stick the cord to the board. + Cut the cord off at the board and the cord maker. These instructions are for making single twisted cords with four single threads in one cord. You can also make double twisted cords, with two times four threads. The cords will be thicker and therefore the shoulder strap will be as well. Personally, | think this is a little coarse for these bags, but tastes differ! Not everybody likes working with very firm cords. You can choose to have less tension in the yarn, so that the cords are somewhat looser. | can imagine that, if you are just starting out with this technique, working with looser cords is easier than tightly wound cords. Its important to note that your work will then be looser, and if you tighten the cords, your work will ‘automatically tighten. ‘Once the cords are twisted, you can start with the split braiding, On the following pages, you will find @ number of patterns. | have used pattern one as a sample pattern. The other patterns are explained in less detail because you insert the guide cord for each pattern in the same way.The width of the shoulder strap is determined by the number of cords: the more cords you use, the wider the strap. For this pattern, | used sixteen cords, but it is easy to modify by adding extra cords or taking some away. IFallis well, you will have sixteen cords that consist of four threads. + Place the cords in the desired order. + Split the first cord between two threads and slide the cord onto your gripfid (photo 1) +Do this with all the threads (photo 2). «Place the guide cord in the groove of the gripfid (photo 3). + Make sure the cord is inside it and the taped part does not protrude (photo 4) + Pull your gripfid carefully through the cords. (photo 5) + .until you are back at the first cord on the gripfid (photo 6). + Remove the cord from the gripfid and tighten it so. that the cords sit in the middle of your guide cord (photo 7). + Tie knot in your guide cord. Make sure itis loose and not tight, otherwise it will not work. You should only use the guide cord to bring your other cords together. Remember that the knot in the guide cord is at the front of the work, so you do not accidentally start on the wrong side when splitting.