a)

The wave climate of extreme wave height for a suitable long term is necessary for planning and
for the design of coastal structures. Design wave height for the return periods for a maximum
of 16 directions at each grid point can be estimated by wave stimulation data of the extreme
wave analysis. Many coastal engineering designs use the empirical formulas consisting of Deep-
water wave height EDWH, but no studies have discussed determining the EDWH explicitly.
EDWH can be determined accordingly by the wave propagation model.
Here the proper relation between Hs and Ho can be derived as:
Hs=(Ks Kbr Kr Kd Kw Kf)Ho
Here K values on the right side of the equation are coefficients.

b)
Because the wave characteristics at the shores are measured at a very small but finite distance,
on a water depth larger than at the structure toe, incident wave height on the structure
obtained from measured data applying a small correction. It can be measured accordingly to
Goda’s formula. The highest deep water can be determined by the Van der Meel formula as:
HsΔDn50=cplP0.18(SN−−√)0.2ξ−0.5mfor plunging wavesHsΔDn50=csP−0.13(SN−−√)0.2cotα−−−
−√ξPmfor surging waves
Ns = Hk/Ck deltaDa50
Here Ns is a modification of traditional stability numbers accounting for wave height and
steepness. If we assume H1/50 as a wave height.
For a breakwater in deep water, the reshaped profiles can certainly be described by some
decreased parameters which are not more than 25%. Here the reduction seems to be because
of the change in the kinematic behavior of waves that are hitting the breakwater.
Measurements can be performed both in the presence of breakwater which is given by the
relation as:
Hs= 4.0sqrt(m0)……………… 95-96% of total variance will occur and depth will be 87% in deep
water.
c)
Berm type breakwater contains a berm around the level of water and consists of an armour
layer which has variation in shape when a response to the action of the wave and hence, a
stable profile is obtained. The influence of wave height and wave period has an effect on the
stability of breakwater. In addition, wave runup and rundown can also be studied. By the result
conducted from experiments using the model of the 1:30 scale using concrete cubes serving as
armour units. The stability number found in this experiment varies from 2.21 to 3.63.
Furthermore, the rundown values varied from 0.45 to 0.88.

d)
Akmon, which is a newly formed form of concrete can be used as armour unit for the purpose
of protection. The stability of breakwater is characterized into three portions as the stability of
the armour layer, the toe, and the structure of the breakwater. Hudson's formula is based on
the experiments taken out for the rocks in terms of stability and armour units. The formula as
provided is:
HΔDn50=sqrt3(kDcotα). For two different breakwaters, the results are given of model
investigations concerning the stability under the attack of waves generated by a wave board
and wind. However, Hudson’s Equation is not capable of providing initial estimate but it is used
for standard.