Every major industry was once a growth industry and so was the leather industry.

It developed to great extent in India only to become the second-largest producer next to China.
However, over the years this once flourishing leather industry was severely hit especially after
the cow slaughter ban in India. But what hit the fashion industry more was how it became a
matter of personal preference. Simply, people dislike how the leather feels. Summers are too
hot, and winters are too chilly. We'd say that it ultimately boils down to the room's temperature.
On a leather or fabric couch, you will still perspire in a warm room in the summer. It's just that
one can be wiped off and the other retains perspiration.

According to Indiaspend, leather exports shrank from $6.49 billion in 2014-15 to $5.66 billion
in 2016-17. On top of that, the production further declined because of cow-related violence in
2012-2013 and throughout 2014.

This industry is mainly driven by rising consumer disposable income and raising the living
standards of the people. However, fashion-conscious consumers seek sustainable alternatives
to leather because of several disadvantages such as -
Leather
• Over time, leather can stretch and develop stretch marks.
• The cost may be substantial.
• A much smaller selection of leather colors.
Fabric
• Susceptible to buckles catching in the material and yanking a thread.
• Getting your fabric couch dry cleaned regularly is advisable to preserve longevity.
• The fabric's style tends to age quickly.
• Spills and other messes are generally harder to clean.
• Fabrics of lower quality may stretch and appear unattractive.

The Myopia of the Leather Industry

Leather is a multi-billion-dollar worldwide industry and is arguably the oldest fabric ever used
by mankind. Demand for leather goods is rising, but so is criticism of its negative effects on
the environment, which is stoking people's interest in eco-friendly alternatives.

Material made from the skin of an animal by tanning is called leather. Then, producers employ
this to create garments, fashion accessories, interiors, and automotive upholstery, with footwear
serving as the principal purpose.
The majority of leather is produced by bovine animals, primarily cows but also sheep and goats.
One animal for every five people on the earth was used to produce 1.4 billion hides and skins
of animals in 20201, according to projections from the Food and Agriculture Organization cited
in the Textile Exchange report 2021.
Additionally, rearing the animals whose skin will eventually be turned into leather necessitates
enormous amounts of water and huge pastureland that must be cleared of trees. Almost 70%
of the Amazon rainforest has been removed in the previous 50 years to create room for pastures
or the development of feed crops. This widespread deforestation destroys the habitat of millions
of species, removes the tree canopy from the planet, and contributes to climate change. Leading
causes of climate change include animal agriculture and the products it produces, notably
leather, which is high in methane and nitrous oxide.
In addition to cows, which are typically used to make leather, other species such as goats,
kangaroos, crocodiles, fish, and many more are also used to make leather. Around 80 percent
of leather in the world is tanned using chromium, a highly toxic process that causes substantial
harm to industrial tannery workers and leads to the release of a sizable amount of hazardous
waste into waterways.

The greatest effect leather has on eutrophication, a serious ecological issue where runoff waste
leads to an overgrowth of plant life in water systems, suffocates animals by depleting oxygen
levels in the water, and is the main contributor to hypoxic zones, also known as "dead zones,"
is on the leather industry. According to the EPA, factory farms are to blame for 70% of the
water contamination in the United States. According to some calculations, greenhouse gas
emissions from animal husbandry exceed those from all of the world's transportation systems
combined. Chromium and other dangerous substances found in tannery waste represent a
serious threat to both human health and the environment.
Waste that is poured into water systems can harm fish gills, and cause infections and respiratory
issues, birth malformations, and infertility. Additionally, it can prompt a variety of spreading
deadly tumors throughout the food supply and in the animal chain. Chromium causes a variety
of diseases in people based on how it is taken in. When breathed in, it serves as a carcinogen
and irritant to the lungs. It impacts the higher increases the risk of the respiratory tract, blocks
airways, and likelihood of getting sinus, nasal, or lung cancer. When handled carelessly, it
might result in dry, erosive ulcerations, as well as skin that is broken and scaled called "chrome
holes"
For the leather industry to remain viable, new leather processing techniques must be developed.
Sustainability is the coordinated completion of tasks of social, economic, and environmental
harmony.

ALTERNATIVES

Leather is and has always been a controversial fiber. The eco-friendly or rather conscious
people will seek alternatives and opt for cruelty-free fibers. Although there are some substitutes
already available, they too do not provide the solution to the prevailing problem.
For example, Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) has been used as a leather substitute for a very long
time. A petroleum-based chemical called vinyl has been connected to human cancer.
Throughout its whole life cycle, dangerous byproducts including dioxins are produced. Vinyl
fabric is commonly made by adhering PVC to a polyester backing, which has its environmental
effects in addition to those caused by the extraction and processing of petroleum. Polyester is
another synthetic, petroleum-based material that has a significant impact on the climate and the
environment. PVC and vegan leather should never be used together.
However, there are other substitutes like:

Cactus leather
This product's manufacturers support natural biodiversity by using cacti grown in Mexico to
make a substantial portion of it. The plantation relies on rainfall rather than irrigation; thus, no
trees have been cut down for it. To create an eco-friendlier leather substitute, the material is
composed of dried cactus powder that is backed by woven fabric that may include recycled
material possibilities.

Vegan Leather
Vegan leather is a synthetic material that resembles leather but is made from plant or artificial
materials rather than animal skins. According to PETA, the two plastic polymers polyurethane
(PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are most frequently used because of their wrinkled texture,
which helps to mimic the look of real leather.

There is solid evidence to support the claim that creating vegan leather has a lower
environmental impact than doing so with real leather.
According to Sandor's assertion, the manufacture of vegan leather can have an impact that is
up to a third lower than that of actual leather. According to Sandor, the impact of real leather
is influenced by land use and the greenhouse gas emissions caused by animal agriculture. As a
result, this has a significant impact on biodiversity, water management, and climate change.
For instance, Brazil's cattle business has been a significant contributor to deforestation,
biodiversity loss, and climate change.

Polyurethane, a polymer that can be manufactured to any designer's specifications, is frequently

used to create vegan leather. It can also be manufactured from creative and eco-friendly
materials like pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit debris, and recycled plastic
to make products that are superior to those made from animal skins. Sustainable vegan leather
is popular worldwide. Tannery waste includes sulfides, acids, water-fouling salt, lime sludge,
and other contaminants.
Today, a variety of synthetic leathers have been produced thanks to significant research into
the substance and its qualities. In terms of breathability, weatherproofing, uniformity, and
weight, this synthetic, or "vegan," leather frequently outperforms its animal counterparts.

Ecological Impacts of Vegan Leather

Before being manufactured, genuine leather must undergo a thorough cleaning process that
uses hazardous chemicals that are bad for the environment as well as the leather's ability to
decompose. Conversely, vegan leather blends fabrics and polyurethane to produce a more
genuine leather feel that is less harmful to the environment.

Durability
Given that it can withstand the environment and is stain- and water-resistant, vegan leather is
incredibly durable. Products made of vegan leather can withstand weather changes and sustain
little wear and tear over time.

Cost-Effectiveness
Genuine leather is more expensive because of all the expenses associated with treating and
preparing it. Vegan leather is the easier to produce and more affordable option when all costs
are taken into account, from the breeding of cattle to the final manufacturing phases.
Camel Wool
A type of cloth called camel wool is made from camel coats. This sort of material is more often
known as camel hair, and it typically comes from the Bactrian camel, a subspecies of a camel.
Bactrian camels naturally lose their winter coats every spring, therefore harvesting this form of
hair is often a sustainable and cruelty-free business.

Leather from camels is sustainable

The same UNESCO research asserts that encouraging the camel business in dry areas aids in
the fight against desertification. According to UNESCO, camel farms will help prevent
desertification, aid in the restoration of desert ecosystems, and decrease the area's reliance on
freshwater.

The Al Khaznah Tannery in Abu Dhabi is one of the more significant suppliers of camel
leather. They tan using a chrome-free method that leaves it chemical-free.

The durability of Camel Leather

The longevity of camel leather is one of its main advantages. Camel hide is robust and less of
it is required to create a durable product. It's general knowledge that camel leather, like calf
leather, is strong and lightweight.
Calfskin and camel skin both have a high density of fibers per square centimeter of the hide,
making them both lightweight and durable. According to one UNESCO report, camel hide is
somewhere between three and ten times stronger than cattle hide.

Apple Leather
AppleSkin, commonly referred to as apple leather, is a bio-based product created from the
leftover pomace and peel from the fruit juice and compote industries. Strong yet supple fabric
is created that is ideal for hard-wearing little accessories.

Eco-friendly
The fact that apple leather is made from a renewable material that is also derived from a natural
waste stream makes it even more unique. The industry's unique apple pomace is categorized as
a distinct waste and is mostly disposed of in landfills or occasionally used as fuel.
Apple seeds, stalks, and skins cannot be utilized in the production of juice or jam. These
"leftovers" were just thrown because the industry couldn't use them until apple leather was
invented. The least harmful to the environment of these is apple skin leather, in part because it
uses fewer fossil fuels than both animal and fully synthetic leather.
Apple production is significantly less destructive than other industries, making it a preferable
industry to support and source materials from.

SCOBY Leather
SCOBY is the commonly used acronym for "symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast", and
is formed after the completion of a unique symbiotic fermentation process of lactic acid
bacteria, acetic acid bacteria, and yeast to form several sour foods and beverages such as
kombucha and kimchi. SCOBYs can be produced significantly more effectively than leather
because they don't involve any animal ingredients in their manufacturing process.
 CONCLUSION

Genuine leather can be substituted with a faux leather option, but when it comes to their
influence on the environment, not all faux leather solutions available are ideal. For instance,
some faux leathers have elements made of petroleum and even plastic.

But More fascinating developments are taking place in this industry.

A promising new material class that is cultured in a lab is called "bio-fabricated leather" or
"Vegan Leather." Since the majority of these materials are so new, they are not yet offered in
stores. One type of vegan leather that is manufactured in a lab is mushroom (or mycelium)
leather. Mycelium leather is not yet commercially available. The vegetarian fashion company
Stella McCartney is funding the creation of a new mycelium material, and once it is finished,
she plans to utilize it in her line of handbags.

We would like to counter that fresh projects like these must be encouraged. The creation of
"ideal" materials that are climate neutral, created from renewable resources, and completely
biodegradable will require some effort, and as we know Innovation and investment are driven
by demand. To reach a high quality for eco-friendly materials, both are required. As a result,
more time and money will be devoted to the invention if there is a greater demand for vegan
"leather" items. The fashion industry will advance sustainably if we encourage innovation and
sustainable development.

Hence, genuine leather can be substituted with a vegan option as an ethical and responsible
choice. The environmental effect of synthetic leather is only one-third that of cow leather.
Additionally, of all the material groupings, cow leather has the biggest environmental impact,
according to the Pulse of the Fashion Industry report, which was released by the Copenhagen
Fashion Summit in 2017. So it makes sense to stop using real leather and switch to vegan
alternatives.
Future :
Leading businesses and scientists will collaborate to develop more varieties of eco-friendly
vegan leathers. For instance, mushroom-based leather is proving to be a more and more viable
substitute and is also better for the environment.
The lifespan of the relevant materials provides one obvious solution. Vegan leathers often
survive longer than plastic leather when the longevity of faux leather and vegan leather is
contrasted.
A vegan leather-like product called Piatex that is biodegradable and manufactured from
recycled pineapple plants lasts a lot longer than traditional pleather materials. Moreover, it
appears more realistic. Compared to less expensive synthetic leathers, it is a major investment
that will last far longer.

Animal skin is used to create genuine leather. It is a by-product of cows that have had their
flesh processed. Real leather is strong, but to extend its life, it must be properly cared for. Real
leather ages poorly and deteriorates in the presence of UV light. Compared to imitation leather,
real leather comes in a far smaller range of colors. Real leather often comes in white, several
colors of black, and brown. Genuine leather is breathable but often cannot be washed. Real
leather must be maintained using specialized treatments to preserve the finish.
Although leather has long served as the foundation of the luxury market, with an estimated
total yearly value of US$400 billion, is it starting to lose its luster? Vegan leather has
unquestionably become more popular in recent years due to growing ethical and environmental
concerns. Additionally, with several well-known companies (such as Chanel, Burberry, Gucci,
and Prada) turning away from exotic animal skins and fur, experts predict that cowhide may
be the next to go.
It is well known that raising cattle is hazardous to the environment, contributing to an estimated
14.5% of annual worldwide greenhouse gas emissions. While leather is frequently regarded as
an industry byproduct or waste product, detractors contend that the material is an inherent
component of the industry.
Production of leather may contribute significantly to profit margins and is crucial to the sector.
Not just the carbon footprint is a cause for worry; the tanning procedure, which involves
treating animal skins and hides to create leather, is also quite polluting.
In the end, technology and the development of new materials will triumph and upend the market
for animal skins, having a favorable effect on deforestation and CO2 emissions.
The sector is still in its infancy and will need money to expand. However, the disruption is
probably going to happen faster than most anticipate as firms and consumers adopt the new
technology. It probably won't make economic sense to use traditional animal sources for leather
in ten years since these technologies will be so much cheaper and superior.

A new generation of eco-friendly substitutes such as vegan leather is attempting to disrupt

the market.
References :

1. https://mahileather.com/blogs/news/different-types-of-leather
2. https://www.devlinlounges.com.au/the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-leather-and-
fabric-lounges/
3. https://www.indiaspend.com/indias-leather-exports-decline-as-cow-related-violence-
increases-99395/