Balloon Dog

I used #4 medium worsted weight acrylic yarn and a 3.0 mm hook (or your preference).
Gauge is not important but make sure all of your yarn is the same weight.
My dog measures about 12.5” (32cm) from nose to tail and about 6.5” (16.5cm) high when assembled.
Stitches used in American terminology:
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
(2 sc stitches together into the same space)
dec –decrease
(2 sc stitches together with a single stitch)
st – stitch
FO – finish off
FLO – front loop only
[…] – repeat sequence between brackets indicated number of times
This is a no-sew pattern and you will be stuffing as you go. You want to stuff firmly enough so that
each section holds its shape even with a lot of handling but not so firmly that the pieces can’t fit
between each other while twisting together. When twisting, I usually start with the front legs because
you will have to feed either the entire length of ears and head, or the body to tail parts through the ring
formed to basically tie each part.

Start from the tail end.

Tail:
1. 4sc in MR. (4)
2-15. (14 rows) sc in each st. (4)
16. [ inc, sc ] x 2. (6)
17. inc x 6. (12)
18. [ inc, sc ] x 6. (18)
19. [ inc, 2sc ] x 6. (24)
20-22. (3 rows) sc in each st. (24)
23. [ dec, 2sc ] x 6. (18)
24. [ dec, sc ] x 6. (12)
25. dec x 6. (6)
26. dec x 3. (3)
Back Leg (do this section twice to make 2 leg segments):
*For these 2 joining rows I usually do FLO if I can’t catch both loops due to the thinness of the rounds.
1-2. (2 rows) sc in each st. (3)
3. inc x 3. (6)
4. inc x 6. (12)
5. [ inc, sc ] x 6. (18)
6. [ inc, 2sc ] x 6. (24)
7-21. (15 rows) sc in each st. (24)
22. [ dec, 2sc ] x 6. (18)
23. [ dec, sc ] x 6. (12)
24. dec x 6. (6)
25. dec x 3. (3)
Body:
Repeat the leg segment pattern rows 1-25 to make a body as in the photo. Increase rows to make a
longer dog or decrease rows to make a shorter dog. By the end of this segment you will have a total of
4 segments counting the small tail segment.
Front Leg (repeat instructions for back legs):
After you have finished the front legs you will have a total of 6 segments; tail, 2 legs, body, and 2 legs.
Neck:
1-2. (2 rows) sc in each st. (3)
3. inc x 3. (6)
4. inc x 6. (12)
5. [ inc, sc ] x 6. (18)
6. [ inc, 2sc ] x 6. (24)
7-12. (6 rows) sc in each st. (24)
13. [ dec, 2sc ] x 6. (18)
14. [ dec, sc ] x 6. (12)
15. dec x 6. (6)
16. dec x 3. (3)
Ears (do this section twice to make 2 ear segments):
*I do not recommend making the ears any shorter than this because it will be incredibly difficult to fit
other segments between the opening the ear twist makes if the hole is smaller. Feel free to add more
even rows to make longer ears though.
1-2. (2 rows) sc in each st. (3)
3. inc x 3. (6)
4. inc x 6. (12)
5. [ inc, sc ] x 6. (18)
6. [ inc, 2sc ] x 6. (24)
7-18. (12 rows) sc in each st. (24)
19. [ dec, 2sc ] x 6. (18)
20. [ dec, sc ] x 6. (12)
21. dec x 6. (6)
22. dec x 3. (3)
Muzzle:
1-2. (2 rows) sc in each st. (3)
3. inc x 3. (6)
4. inc x 6. (12)
5. [ inc, sc ] x 6. (18)
6. [ inc, 2sc ] x 6. (24)
7-15. (9 rows) sc in each st. (24)
16. [ dec, 2sc ] x 6. (18)
17. [ dec, sc ] x 6. (12)
18. dec x 6. (6)
19. dec x 3. (3)
Nose:
1. FLO 3sc in each st around. (9)
FO
You should have 10 segments from beginning to end.
It is maybe a bit difficult to explain the twisting assembly in words and pictures but I will add a few
anyway.
Basically, you will fold your pairs of legs and ears and give a single twist to make it into a ring and
then pass the other segments through the ring to tie it together.
The front legs are twisted once and waiting to have other segments threaded through to complete a tie.
Here you see the back legs just waiting to have the tail tucked between them to make a tie.