EMOSMART™ & EMOGREEN™

Sun Care

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

In brief...

1. Emollients Ranges Annexes

1. Environmental Caring
a. Ranges at a Glance
a. Origin
b. Physico-Chemical Characteristics b. Biodegradability vs. References
c. Not classified for the environment

2. Sun Care Performances

d.
e.
Carbon Footprint
ISCC Plus Certification

a. Classical composition of a sun care product 2. In the Lab

b. Mineral sunscreens dispersions a. Spontaneous Spreading
c. Emulsion formulation with sunscreens b. Easy Spreadability
d. Emulsion formulation with sun filters c. Non Sticky Touch with Glycerin
d. Matte Effect
e. Sticky effect evaluation e. Water Resistance
f. Anti-sand effect
g. Sensory evaluation 3. Sensory Assets
a. Cascading Sensory Effect

3. Formulas
b. Volatile Silicone Oils Comparison

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

Emollients Ranges

EMOSMART™, Unique High Purity

EMOSMART™ L15
C13-15 Alkane

EMOSMART™ L19 • Unique high purity alkanes

• Readily biodegradable
C15-19 Alkane
• Inert and non-polar oils
EMOSMART™ V21 • Halal Certified

C18-21 Alkane

EMOSMART™ C28
C21-28 Alkane

A broad sensory palette from nude skin to extra-comfortable…

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 3
 Emollients Ranges

EMOGREEN™, Biodegradable Alternative

to Silicone Oils
EMOGREEN™ L15 • Unique High Purity Alkanes
• Readily Biodegradable
C15-19 Alkane*
• Vegetable Origin, Non GMO
EMOGREEN™ L19 • Traceable Sourcing
• MB Starting Biomass
C15-19 Alkane* • “No deforestation”
• Inert and Non-polar Oils
EMOGREEN™ C69 • COSMOS, ECOCERT approved and NATRUE certified
• EMOGREEN™ L15 & EMOGREEN™ L19 are HALAL Certified
C15-19 Alkane* -
• 100% natural origin content (according to ISO 16128)
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

*Plant-based & Renewable

A unique first refreshing & gliding sensation with a soft afterfeel…
9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 4
 Emollients Ranges

Emollients Ranges at a Glance

EMOSMART™ L15 EMOSMART™ L19 EMOSMART™ V21 EMOSMART™ C28 EMOGREEN™ L15 EMOGREEN™ L19 EMOGREEN™ C69

C15-19 Alkane*
INCI name  C13-15 Alkane C15-19 Alkane C18-21 Alkane C21-28 Alkane C15-19 Alkane* C15-19 Alkane* & Coco/Caprylate
Caprate

Biodegradability Readily Biodegradable

Ecotoxicity Not classified for the environment (see details slide 26)

Approved Labels & ECOCERT, COSMOS, ECOCERT, COSMOS,

HALAL HALAL HALAL HALAL COSMOS, NATRUE
Certification NATRUE, HALAL NATRUE, HALAL

Fresh & vanishing Fresh & vanishing Fresh texture, soft finish Light texture, Fresh & gliding Fresh & gliding Soft, extra-comfortable
Sensory Profile texture, dry & matte veil texture, matte veil & matte veil nourishing after feel sensation, powdery sensation, soft finish and powdery veil
after feel

Appearance Crystal Clear & Colorless Liquid

Odor Slight Odor Odorless

Viscosity at 20°C (mPa.s) 4.5 8.5 13.5 26 4.5 9 8.6

Refractive index at 20°C

1.450 1.449 1.451 1.458 1.433 1.434 1.4412
(indicative value)

Specific cosmetic regulation

Recommended use level 0.5-50% 0.5-60% 0.5-80% 0.5-100% 0.5-50% 0.5-50% 0.5-70%

Versatile applications: skin care, hair care, make-up, sun care, cleanser, make-up remover, depilatory, deodorant, hair color, etc
Applications
Easy formulation and stabilization in very extreme condition (pH, oxidizing/reducing media, …)

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 5

 Emollients Ranges

Physico Chemical Characteristics

Viscosity Vapor pressure Contact angle value at
Specific gravity Flash poInt (°C) Pour point (°C) Refractive index
at 20°C (mPa.s) (KPa) at 20°C 0.8s (20°C)
Indicates the oil
Weight in The temperature at Information about the
Fluidity of the oil – flammability – Allows to define V.O.C Helps to enhance
comparison to which the oil spontaneous spreading
ease to handle determine the max of products (>0,01kPa)* the texture shine
water becomes semi solid of the oil on the skin
heat for the oily phase
EMOSMART™ L15 4.5 0.815 101 -27 0.004 1.45 3.3
EMOGREEN™ and
EMOSMART™ L19 8.5 0.809 133 -15 0.0001 1.448 4
EMOSMART™ ranges
EMOSMART™ V21 13.5 0.813 150 0 0.0001 1.451 7.8 present close
characteristics to other
EMOSMART™ C28 26 0.825 170 -20 0.00001 1.459 6.9
volatile oils (low viscosity
EMOGREEN™ L15 4.5 0.775 105 -65 0.002 1.433 3.3 and light touch) but
EMOGREEN™ L19 9 0.785 135 -30 0.001 1.439 4.7 they’re not flammable nor
VOC like most of them.
EMOGREEN™ C69 8.6 0.8097 159 <-8°C 0.001 1.4412 5
Isododecane 1-5 0.745 45 not available 0.1* (VOC) 1.422 2.7
Isohexadecane 5 0.785 102 not available 0.01* (VOC) 1.440-1.445 4.5
Cyclopentasiloxane 4 0.950 77 -50 0.015* (VOC) 1.397 4.7
Cyclopentasiloxane &
6 0.957 77 -58 not available 1.398 4.1
Cyclohexasiloxane
Dimethicone 100cps 100 0.964 120 -65 not available 1.403 20.8
Dimethicone 350cps 350 0.969 120 -26 not available 1.403 59

* Considered as Volatile Organic Compound (V.O.C ) component according European Regulation 1999/13/CE - 11 march 1992: “Any substance with a vapor pressure ≥ 0.01 kPa at 293,15 K=20°C”

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 6

 Sun Care
Performances

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

Sun Care Performances

Classical Composition of a Sun Care Product

Lipophilic or hydrophilic active ingredients Active Ingredients
to fit with the marketing claims (moisturization, anti-pollution…)

Water (60-80%)

Sensory Enhancers Apolar Oils & Texturizing Powders - 2 to 10%

to improve aesthetics and disperse sunscreens

SPF Boosters & Film Formers - ~2% SPF Boosters / Film Formers
to boost the UV performance and the water resistance Waxes, polymeric thickeners Waxes & Polymeric Thickeners - 0.3 to 3%
Emulsifiers to confer the viscosity to the texture
O/W (anionic or non ionic) and W/O Emulsifiers - 3 to 5%
to give the formulation type
UV filters solubilizers Polar Oils - 10%
to solubilize UV filters (need of a -OH function in the molecule)

Blend of UV Filters - 10 to 20% UV filters

(UVB, UVA and broad
to achieve the targeted SPF, the photostability and a balanced UV protection spectrum)

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 8

Sun Care Performances

Inorganic Sunscreens Dispersions

EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ ranges achieve the same performance as C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate!

Titanium Dioxide & Titanium Dioxide & Alumina & Titanium Dioxide & Alumina & Zinc Oxide &
Simethicone Manganese Dioxide Simethicone Triethoxycaprylylsilane
30 % sunscreen / 70% Oil

Aspect Stability Aspect Stability Aspect Stability Aspect Stability

EMOSMART™ L19 Stable 1D Stable 1D Stable 1D Stable 1D

EMOSMART™ V21 Not granular Stable 1D Not granular Stable 1D Not granular Stable 1D Not granular Stable 1D

(tested in the jar (tested in the jar and (tested in the jar (tested in the jar
EMOGREEN™ L15 and on PMMA Stable 1D on PMMA plate) Stable 1D and on PMMA Stable 1D and on PMMA Stable 1D
plate) plate) plate)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Stable 1D Stable 1D Stable 1D Stable 1D
(market reference)

Nota Bene: a good and stable dispersion does not show a granular aspect.

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 9

Sun Care Performances

Formulation of an Emulsion with Inorganic

Sunscreens
EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ ranges give better results than market reference!
Titanium Dioxide & Alumina &
Titanium Dioxide & Simethicone
Simethicone

Aspect of the Stability after 1M at Aspect of the Stability after

emulsion 45°C emulsion 1M at 45°C

Smooth Stable Smooth Stable

Formula
EMOSMART™ L19

MONTANOV™ 82 3.00%
EMOSMART™ V21 Smooth Stable Smooth Stable
Oil 10.00%
Sunscreen 4.00%
EMOGREEN™ L15 Smooth Stable Smooth Stable SEPIPLUS™ 400 1.00%
Preservative 1.00%

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (market reference) Granular Stable Granular Stable

5% EMOGREEN™ L15 + 5% Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (Polar oil) Smooth Stable Smooth Stable

5% EMOSMART™ L19 + 5% Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (Polar oil) Smooth Stable Smooth Stable

5% EMOSMART™ V21 + 5% Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (Polar oil) Smooth Stable Smooth Stable

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 10

 Sun Care Performances

Formulation of an Emulsion with Organic Sun

Filters
EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ give more stable emulsions than market references

Tested Formula (SPF 30 - calculated) 5% of Oil 10% of Oil

MONTANOV™ 82 3.00% Viscosity (mPa.s) Stability 1M at RT Viscosity (mPa.s) Stability 1M at RT

Oil 5.00 or 10.00% Brookfield S4S6 and 45°C Brookfield S4S6 and 45°C
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT 5.00%
EMOSMART™ L19 43.500 Stable 42.000 Stable
Octocrylene 10.00%
Homosalate 10.00%
SEPIPLUS™ 400 1.00% EMOSMART™ V21 45.000 Stable 41.000 Stable
Preservative 1.00%

44.500 Stable 44.650 Start to exude after

EMOGREEN™ L15
1M at 45°C

50.000 Stable 57.100 Start to exude after

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (market reference)
7D at 45°C

Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) Diisopropyl Sebacate Start to exude after

46.000 Stable 57.000
(and) Lauryl Lactate (market reference) 7D at 45°C

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 11

Sun Care Performances

Sticky Effect Evaluation - Placement Test

EMOSMART™ V21 is the best choice to decrease sun filters sticky effect!

Rank 1 Rank 2 Formula

Qsp 100% Aqua/Water
● EMOSMART™ L19 3.00% MONTANOV™ 82
5.00% Oil
● EMOGREEN™ L15
EMOSMART™ V21* ● C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
3.00%
5.00%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
(significant) ● Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) (and) BHT
Diisopropyl Sebacate (and) Lauryl 10.00% Octocrylene
Lactate 10.00% Homosalate
1.00% SEPIPLUS™ 400
1.00% Preservative

The percentages of Octocrylene and Homosalate

Sensory Analysis: 15 trained panelists / 50μL of product on the back of the hand have been increased in order to maximize the
stickiness of the formula

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Sun Care Performances

Anti-Sand Effect Evaluation Tested Formula (SPF 30 - calculated)

Aqua/Water Qsp 100%
MONTANOV™ 82 3.00%
Oil* 5.00%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT 5.00%
Octocrylene 10.00%
Method & Tested Formulas Homosalate 10.00%
SEPIPLUS™ 400 1.00%
1. Preservative 1.00%

Tested OIls
● EMOSMART™ L19
Protocol ● EMOSMART™ V21
● EMOGREEN™ L15
● C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
1. Drop 32.5mg of the formula on a PMMA plate ● Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) Diisopropyl
2. Spread the product homogeneously on the plate 2. Sebacate (and) Lauryl Lactate
3. Weigh the plate covered by the product (tare weight)
4. Put the PMMA plate in sand
5. Apply a 300g weight on it for 1 minute Market Reference Inci list
6. Weigh the plate in order to determine the quantity of
Butane, Aqua/Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Homosalate,
sand stuck on it Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Dimethicone, Styrene/ Acrylates Copolymer,
3 measurements per formula 5. Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Nylon-12, Dicaprylyl
Carbonate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer,
Cyclohexasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane,
P-anisic Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride,
Dodecene, Phenoxyethanol, Thermus Thermophillus
Ferment, PEG-8 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Poly
6. C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Poloxamer 407, Isododecane,
Isostearyl Alcohol, Propylene Carbonate, Caprylyl
Glycol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Disodium Edta,
Potassium Sorbate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18
Methicone, Glycerin.

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Sun Care Performances

Anti-Sand Effect Evaluation Tested Formula (SPF 30 - calculated)

Aqua/Water Qsp 100%
MONTANOV™ 82 3.00%
Oil* 5.00%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT 5.00%
Octocrylene 10.00%
EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™: claiming “anti-sand” effect! Homosalate 10.00%
SEPIPLUS™ 400 1.00%
The formulas containing EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ give the same results as the Market Benchmark claiming Preservative 1.00%
anti-sand effect! Tested OIls
No significant differences between the different formulas ● EMOSMART™ L19
● EMOSMART™ V21
● EMOGREEN™ L15
● C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
● Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) Diisopropyl
Sebacate (and) Lauryl Lactate

Market Reference Inci list

Butane, Aqua/Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Homosalate,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Dimethicone, Styrene/ Acrylates Copolymer,
Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Nylon-12, Dicaprylyl
Carbonate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer,
Cyclohexasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane,
P-anisic Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride,
Dodecene, Phenoxyethanol, Thermus Thermophillus
Ferment, PEG-8 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Poly
C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Poloxamer 407, Isododecane,
Isostearyl Alcohol, Propylene Carbonate, Caprylyl
Glycol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Disodium Edta,
Potassium Sorbate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18
Methicone, Glycerin.

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 14

Sun Care Performances

Sensory Evaluation in Presence of Inorganic

Sunscreens and Organic Sun Filters
EMOSMART™ L19 can replace C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate with no impact on sensory nor SPF!

Formula SPF 25 (in-vitro measurement)

Aqua/Water Qsp 100%
MONTANOV™ 82 3.00%
Oil 5.00%
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate 10.00%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT 5.00%
Octocrylene 10.00%
Homosalate 10.00%
Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica 4.00%
SEPIMAX ZEN™ 0.50%
SOLAGUM™ AX 0.50%
Preservatives 1.50%
pH agent qs pH 5.5-6.5

Sensory Analysis
● 7 trained panelists
● tested zone: back of the hand

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 15

Sun Care Performances

Conclusion
EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are ideal
oils for the Sun Care application

● Ability to disperse inorganic sunscreen

● Increase the stability of sun care formulations containing

○ inorganic sunscreen(s)
○ organic sun filters

● EMOSMART™ V21 is the best choice to decrease organic sun

filters sticky effect in formulation

● Allow to claim an “anti-sand” effect!

● EMOSMART™ L19 has the same sensory as C12-15 Alkyl

Benzoate in a classical sun care formulation containing
inorganic and organic sun filters

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 16

 Formulas

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 17

EU07426

Body & Hair Sun Protection Oil, SPF 50

Aspect: Yellow transparent oil
Packaging: Spray

Sun protective oil SPF 50+ (vitro and vivo) to sublimate body and hair!

EMOGREEN™ L15 brings gliding, enhancing the application, and a powdery touch.
EMOSMART™ L15 provides an evanescent and light sensory feel.
EMOSMART™ L15 & EMOGREEN™ L15 association procures a very light oil with a soft and powdery
after feel.

A EMOGREEN™ L15 33.70%

EMOSMART™ L15 6.00%
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 20.00%
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 5.00%
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 10.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 10.00%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00%
Homosalate 10.00%
B Fragrance/ Parfum 0.30%

Viscosity 1M at RT <50 mPa.s Brookfield S2S6

Stability Stable after 1M at RT & 45°C

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EU07481

“Winter is here” SPF 50 UV extreme

protective sunscreen A Aqua / Water
Disodium EDTA
Up to 100%
0.05%
Triethanolamine (50%) Qs pH
Monopropylene Glycol 3.00%
SEPIMAT™ SB 2.00%

Aspect: Ivory liquid B SENSANOV™ WR 1.00%

Packaging: Pump MONTANOV™ 82 2.00%
LANOL 37T 10.00%
Easily applied, quick drying, you will appreciate your ride on the snow even EMOGREEN™ L15 5.00%
more! Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00%
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl 4.00%
ANTILEUKINE 6™ allows to protect the skin from cold and UV agressions.
Triazine 5.00%
MONTANOV™ 82 and SENSANOV™ WR are a combination bringing a soft Homosalate 3.00%
emulsion. Octocrylene 0.05%
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 stabilizes the high percentage of oily phase (~36%) Tocopherol
and sun filters (26%).
C SEPINOV™ EMT 10 0.80%
SEPIMAT™ SB allows a matte powdery finish and quick drying on the skin. SOLAGUM™ AX 0.10%
SENSANOV™ WR allows an excellent water-resistant suncare formula
(84%*) with a light and powdery feeling on the skin. D Conservateurs/Preservatives 1.50%
Parfum/Fragrance 0.20%
LANOL 37T, polar emollient, helps the UV filters solubilization.
ANTILEUKINE 6™ 2.00%
EMOGREEN™ L15 brings glide-on, light touch, soft and powdery finish.
E Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl 8.00%
● Sun filters authorized in Europe Tetramethylbutylphenol
Citric Acid Up to pH 5.5
● SPF 50 label (in vivo** and in vitro*** tested)
● Extreme temperatures don’t impact the SPF (4°C and 45°C pH 6.0
during 2 months, in vitro tested) Viscosity 1M at RT 18 060 mPa.s Brookfield S3S6
Stability* Stable after 1M at RT, 45°C and in thermal cycles
Enjoy an extreme UV sunscreen to protect your skin from extreme sports from -5 to 40°C, stable after centrifugation (3
000 rpm, 20 minutes)
conditions!
Challenge Test A Criteria (European Pharmacopea)

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EU07549

Body Sunguard, Fluid and Powdery Sun

Protection - SPF 30
A Aqua/Water Qs 100%

Aspect: Ivory fluid emulsion B FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 3.00%

Packaging: tube LANOL 37T 10.00%
EMOGREEN™ L15 5.00%
This formula brings a double protection against sun and pollution. It Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and BHT 6.00%
leaves a dry powdery after feel thanks to the new natural texturizing Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2.00%
powder SEPIFINE™ BB ! Homosalate 3.00%
Octocrylene 3.00%
SEPIFINE™ BB, used at 2%, reduces the stickiness due to UV filters. This Tocopherol 0.05%
100% biosourced texturizing powder leaves a velvety and soft afterfeel
on the skin and also creates a pleasant playtime. C SEPIMAX ZEN™ 0.40%
SOLAGUM™ AX 0.10%
FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY creates a very pleasant light texture and emulsifies D Conservateurs/Preservatives 1.50%
the high percentage oily phase (32%), with 19% contributed by the sun Perfume/Fragrance 0.10%
filters. CONTACTICEL™ 1.00%
The combination of SEPIMAX ZEN™ and SOLAGUM™ AX reinforces the EPHEMER™ 1.00%
formula stability.
EMOGREEN™ L15 gives a gliding playtime, ideal for the sun care E Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 5.00%
products. It brings a light touch, a non greasy and a powdery finish. and Aqua and Decyl Glucoside and Propylene Glycol and
Xanthan Gum
This sunscreen brings antioxidant protection thanks to CONTACTICEL™ Citric acid solution Qs pH=5.5
and anti-pollution properties thanks to EPHEMER™.
F SEPIFINE™ BB 2.00%

pH 6.00
Viscosity D7 at RT 5,580 mPa.s Brookfield S3S6
Stability* Stable at RT and at 45°C after 1M

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AS40039B

So Sporty Water Resistant Sun Protection

Cream, in vitro SPF 30
A Aqua/Water Up to 100%
Butylene Glycol 4.00%
Aspect: Ivory fluid emulsion
SOLAGUM™ AX 0.30%
Packaging: Tube
Disodium EDTA 0.05%
ORAMIX™ CG 110 0.50%
A solar formula to fully enjoy outdoor sports! Fast drying effect and
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 0.50%
non greasy texture guaranteed!
Triethanolamine (50%) 1.50%
SEPILIFE™ NUDE ensures the fluidity of the emulsion and stabilizes B Octocrylene 6.00%
the oily phase. Thanks to its good compatibility with titanium dioxide, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00%
it minimizes the greasy skin feel with high content of sun filters (17%). Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.50%
SENSANOV™ WR establishes a matte velvety sunscreen with a light Diisopropyl Adipate and Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / 3.00%
skin feel and creates 100%* water resistance formulation (* SEPPIC Dicaprate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and Diisopropyl
57CO048A method). Sebacate
SEPIMAT™ HB V ensures a non-greasy and powdery feel which SEPIMAT™ HB V 1.00%
comforts the skin. SENSANOV™ WR 3.00%
EMOSMART™ L19 5.00%
Sun Filters with global authorisation Titanium Dioxide and Glycerin and Alumina 3.00%
In-vitro SPF = 30 (SEPPIC 57CO033 method) SEPILIFE™ NUDE 1.50%
C Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20%
It has never been so pleasant to protect your skin from the sun ! Conservateur/Preservative 1.00%
Fragrance 0.20%
pH 7.0
Viscosity 1M at RT 15 400 mPa.s Brookfield S4S6
Stability M1 Stable at RT, –18°C and 45°C
M1 Stable after cycles –5/+40°C
Stable when centrifuged at 37°C, 30’ at
3000 rpm

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 Annexes
Environmental Caring
In the Lab
Sensory Assets

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

Environmental
Caring

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

 Environmental Caring

Origin, creating new sensations

EMOGREEN™

by Total Special
Fluids Division
Plant-based
sourcing
Hydrogenation Distillation
kj (narrow cuts)
(Purification)

EMOSMART™

Synthetic sourcing

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 24

 Environmental Caring

Focus on Biodegradability vs. Standard

References
EMOSMART™ L15 EMOSMART™ L19 EMOSMART™ V21 EMOSMART™ C28 EMOGREEN™ L15 EMOGREEN™ L19 EMOGREEN™ C69

C15-19 Alkane* &

INCI name C13-15 Alkane C15-19 Alkane C18-21 Alkane C21-28 Alkane C15-19 Alkane* C15-19 Alkane* Coco-Caprylate/
Caprate
Biodegradability all constituents are
70-75% 70-75% 70-75% 60-65% 80% 83%
OECD 306, sea water readily biodegradable
Biodegradability (according to OECD
- - - - 86% 89% 301B and literature data)
OECD 301, fresh water
Readily Biodegradable
*Plant-based & Renewable

Cyclopentasiloxane &
INCI name Isododecane Isohexadecane Dimethicone
Cyclohexasiloxane
Biodegradability
Inherently** Inherently** No (0.14%)** No (0.14%)**
OECD 306, sea water
** data from commercial documents

Readily Biodegradable: at least 60% of biodegradability at 28 days. Minimum required for Green Labels approval.
Inherently Biodegradable: biodegradability between 20% and 59% at 28 days

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Environmental Caring

EMOSMART™ & EMOGREEN™ not classified

for the environment
EMOSMART™ L15 EMOSMART™ L19 EMOSMART™ V21 EMOSMART™ C28 EMOGREEN™ L15 EMOGREEN™ L19 EMOGREEN™ C69

C15-19 Alkane*
 C13-15 Alkane C15-19 Alkane C18-21 Alkane C21-28 Alkane C15-19 Alkane* C15-19 Alkane*
& Coco/Caprylate Caprate
*Natural & Renewable

EMOSMART™
● Vegetable origin, non GMO
are Readily biodegradable and Not classified for the environment
● “No deforestation” certificate
according to(EU) n°1272/2008 (CLP) on the basis of available
● Traceable Sourcing
ecotoxicological data:
● MB Starting Biomass
● COSMOS, ECOCERT and NATRUE approved
● EMOSMART™ L15 & EMOSMART™ L19 & EMOSMART™ V21
with NOELR > or = at 1000 mg/L for all aquatic species: algae, crustacean
and fish
EMOGREEN™ L15 & EMOGREEN™ L19
● EMOSMART™ C28
are Readily biodegradable and Not classified for the environment according
E(L)L50 >100 mg/L for all aquatic species: algae, crustacean and fish
to(EU) n°1272/2008 (CLP) on the basis of available ecotoxicological data with
LL50> at 1000 mg/L for all aquatic species: algae, crustacean and fish

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 26

 Environmental Caring

Carbon Footprint Comparison “cradle to gate”

(kg eq. CO2/T)
Carbon Footprint
Decrease
EMOGREEN™ range
-85% -115% represents a carbon
footprint that is «cradle to gate»: considering the feedstock, the harvesting, the transportation, and the production
115% lower CO CO2
than silicone oils CO2 2 CO2 CO2
CO2 CO2 CO2
CO2 CO2

EMOGREEN™
Carbon Credit
Palm Tree

PHOTOSYNTHESIS HARVESTING & TRANSPORTATION PRODUCTION

Biogenic Carbon Fossil Carbon Consumption Fossil Carbon Consumption
Type of feedstock (from available public data) Consumption (Non Renewable Feedstock) (Non Renewable Feedstock)
* Global Silicon Council (Renewable Feedstock)
** CONCAWE data
*** Biograce data

Greenhouse Gases Emission

EcoInvent v2.2. data base / method IPCC 2007 GWP 100a V1.02
Confirmed by a critical review committee according to ISO 14040 & ISO 14044, ISO TS 14071

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 27

 Environmental Caring

EMOGREEN™ Plant ISCC* Plus

Certification

1. Zero Deforestation 4. Social Conditions

Protection of primary forest, high carbon stock areas, peat-and wetlands, Ensures good labor conditions and limit impacts to surrounding
protected areas and highly biodiversity areas. communities.

2. Good Agricultural Practices 5. Compliance with Laws

Comply with all regional and national laws and international treaties.
Agricultural and forestry production shall protect soil, water and air and ensure a
sustainable use of land.
6. Good Management Practices
3. Safe Working Conditions Recording system and compliance of subcontractors.
Ensures working health and safety during work. Improve competence and
knowledge via training.

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 28

 In the Lab

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

 In the Lab

A story of spreading

Spontaneous Easy Spreadability Non Sticky Touch Matte Effect Long Lasting Effect
Spreading
Pure Oil - Goniometry Pure Oil - Tribology O/W Emulsion - Pure Oil - Reflectometer O/W Emulsion - Seppic
Rheometer Method

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 30

In the Lab

Pure Oil Spontaneous Spreadability

Contact angle comparison between different oils at 0.8s
Did you know ?

an xa e
e ne
ec ilo an

um
ad as ox

id
ex ex sil

qu
oh oh ta

Li

e
s) on
Is ycl en

um
The contact angle value gives

cp ic
C op

fin

50 th
& ycl

Synthetic and non information about the spreadability

(3 ime
ra
C

Pa
Biodegradable

D
T 21 of the oil on the skin
EM OS 9 T L 5
O MA9 19

8
R 1

It can also be an indicator of an

C2
AR T V
EMNO MA T L
LA OS AR

SM R

emulsion spreadability
M

L
EMOS
EM

Synthetic and
Biodegradable

il
9
C69
RE N 5

O
e ic
EN L1
G E 1

d
O RE N L

rid ap

on
EMOSMART™
ce /C
EMOG EE

lm
ly ic
EM GR

tA
ig yl

& EMOGREEN™ ranges have a

Tr apr

ee
O
EM

Sw

particularly good spreadability

C

Natural and
Biodegradable
They facilitate emulsions’
spreading

Contact angle illustration at 5°, 20° and 60°

° °
Spreadability +++
Protocol - Goniometry: deposit of oil drop on rough PMMA plate

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 31

 In the Lab

Easy Spreadability
What do the spreading
speeds represent ?
Friction Coefficient Measurement at Different Speeds
• 0.1rad/s is a classical speed used by the texturometer
method

• 1rad/s represents a slow spreading speed applied

• 4rad/s is the speed associated to a slow rotational

spreading. It indicates that the panelist appreciate
the texture
• 10 rad/s represents the classical
spreading speed exerted by a panelist
during a sensory evaluation

EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™

ranges have a uniform gliding
effect whatever the spreading
speed

A low friction coefficient means a

good gliding

Cyclopentasiloxane,
Isododecane and
Cyclopentasiloxane &
Cyclohexasiloxane can
show a drag effect during
SEPPIC method 57CO096A on pure oils - Tribology: rheometer with a rotary mobile which measure the friction coefficient spreading

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 32

In the Lab

Non Sticky Touch with High Dose of Glycerin

What do the spreading

Formula known for a sticky effect

speeds represent ?
Rheometer Measurement More
Sticky
• EMOSMART™ L19 formula is more than 3.5 times less sticky than the
one with Isohexadecane (significantly less sticky than the tested
silicones).
• EMOGREEN ™ L15 is the perfect green solution for a non sticky touch.
Less Sticky • EMOGREEN™ L15, EMOSMART™ V21 and EMOSMART™ C28 have the
same profile as Cyclopentasiloxane.

Formula
A SIMULSOL™ 165 2.00%
Stearic Acid 0.20%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.50%
Emollient 33
5.00%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00%
Paraffin Oil 4.00%

B Aqua/Water Up to 100%
Polymer 1.00%
Glycerin 10.00%
Conservateur/Preservative 0.50%

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 33

In the Lab

Matte Effect on the Skin

What do the spreading
speeds represent ?
Shine Kinetic Measurement - Pure Oils Modeling on PMMA Plate

• EMOGREEN™ L15 and EMOSMART™ L19 have the fastest

reduction of shine and give a matte finish like Isododecane and
Isohexadecane

• EMOGREEN™ L19 has the closest profile to volatile silicone oil

• EMOGREEN™ L15 is the only natural ingredient for an immediate

matte effect on the skin

• EMOSMART™ C28 gives a radiant effect to the skin, a glow that

fits with the “dewy” trend

• Isododecane is totally evaporated after 2 minutes

Reflectometer method: 0,5 µl Deposit of oil on a rough PMMA plate + 8 circles to obtain an homogenous film

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 34

 In the Lab

Immediate Matte Effect (1 min) on the Skin

What do the spreading
speeds represent ?
Shine Kinetic Measurement - Pure Oils Modeling on PMMA Plate

Isohexadecane
but non readily biodegradable, VOC

Isododecane
but sticky, non readily
biodegradable, VOC and
low flash point
≥
0
EMOGREEN™ L15

EMOSMART™ L19
≥
0
EMOGREEN™ L19
≥0
Dimethicone
(350cs)

Matte
Shining

EMOGREEN™ L15 & EMOSMART™ L19 are the best choice for an
immediate matte effect on the skin

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 35

 In the Lab

Long Lasting Effect

Resistance to Wash-off in Emulsion In vitro screening
SEPPIC Method 57CO048
72% Correlation with in vivo COLIPA method (5 volunteers) on 18 O/W or
W/O emulsions

Weight loss after 2 baths of 20 min (25°C/ hard water/ 40rpm stirring)

1. Film - 60µm thickness +

drying at 30-35°C

2. 2 baths of 20 min. 20 min.

pause in between

● EMOSMART™ range provides long lasting effect to the formula 3. 20 min. drying at 45°C and
● EMOSMART™ are the ideal oils for Sun Care, Make-Up and humid climates formulas weighing

Tested Formula: Aqua/Water Up to 100%, SEPIPLUS™ 400 1%, MONTANOV™ 202 1%, Emollient 10.0%, Preservative 1%

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 36

 In the lab

A Story of Spreading

Spontaneous Spreading Easy Spreadability

EMOSMART™ L15 ALL
EMOGREEN™ L15

Your Best Options

Long Lasting Texture Non Sticky Touch
EMOSMART™ L19
EMOSMART™ C28 EMOSMART™ L19
EMOGREEN™ L15

Matte Effect
ALL EXCEPT EMOSMART™
C28
Immediate Matte Effect
EMOSMART™ L19
EMOGREEN™ L15

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 37

 Sensory

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care

Sensory

Cascading Sensory Effect

For a continuous sensory feeling, associate head, heart & base oils
Head oils

The more vanishing,

they can be felt at the
beginning of the
application Heart oils

They provide to the formula

its spreadability and gliding.
They prolong the freshness
of head oils and announce
the base oils

Base oils

The heaviest molecules,

they can be felt at the end
of the application, giving
the texture its personality

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 39

 Sensory

EMOGREEN™ Sensory vs. Volatile Silicone Oil

Pivot© Analysis Method
‘‘Glossy in the jar BUT matte
effect on the skin!’’
In comparison with Cyclopentasiloxane &
Cyclohexasiloxane, each EMOGREEN™ creates formulas
that are more appreciated in terms of aspect (glossier) and
during application (more emollience) with the same afterfeel
Aspect, application & (powdery and mattifying effect)
afterfeel comparison Cyclopentasiloxane
with the pivot &
reference Cyclohexasiloxane

Method
• 13 panelists
• 50µl of product
• Back of the hand

• Rotations up to product
Aspect Application Afterfeel on the absorption
skin • Comparison of each product to
the reference:
EMOGREEN™ L15 & EMOGREEN™ L15 Cyclopentasiloxane &
EMOGREEN™ L15 & EMOGREEN™ L19 provide a & EMOGREEN™ L19
EMOGREEN™ L19 Cyclohexasiloxane
more emollient sensation have the same powdery
create glossier formulas during the application of the touch & skin mattifying Tested Formula
formula effect Up to 100% Aqua/Water
2.00% SEPINOV™ EMT 10
15.00% Oil
Sensory 0.30% ORAMIX™ CG110
Analysis
Tested Formula: Aqua/Water Up to 100%, SIMULGEL™ I-NS 100 1.9%, Emollient 10.0%, Preservative 0.5%
Evaluation

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care 40

Thank you

A Company

9329 GB 01 October 2019 - Emollients & Sun Care