Woven Label Fabric

According to Textile institute a woven label is length of narrow fabric woven on a jacquard loom,
incorporating names, logos and/ or text to identify the article to which the label is attached, and
to give instructions and other details.
It can be produced on narrow loom or normal width loom. In case of normal width loom a large
number of labels are produced where woven labels are slitted into individual label.

Classification as follows…
1. According to end use
Main label: To describe various type of information like fiber composition of garment/textile, logo
of the company, name of the manufacturing country etc.
Size label: To describe the size of the garments/textile. E.g. Small(S), Medium(M), Large (L), extra
large(XL) etc.
Extra label: Usually attached to the placket or bottom of the shirt or any part.
Care label: To describe care instructions or symbols like washing, bleaching, drying, ironing,
and/or dry washing etc.
Sticker label: Fancy item which is used to various types of articles either to show the brand names
and other details or enhance their customer acceptability.

2. According to Fabric construction- Plain or tafetta, Twill and satin

3. According to the use of colored thread- Only ground yarn and colored threads.
Constructional parameters:
In most cases 100 polyester filaments are used.
i) Denier of warp- 50,75,100
ii) Denier of weft -50,75,100,150
iii) Twist in warp & weft – No twist
iv) EPI- 58/cm (Plain) , 116/cm (Satin)
v) PPI-29/cm (Both plain and satin). PPI varies depending on the no. of colored wefts across the weft.
E.g. if there are two color in the same weft line then the density of colored weft will be doubled.

Weave structure:
In most cases labels are of either plain or satin. In case of satin 5 end satin with 2 or 3 move number is
most widely used. The label contains three types yarns
E.g. i) warp (called ground yarn) ii) weft (called ground weft) iii) Figuring yarns or coloring weft. In case of
label always figure is produced by inserting weft of varying color. Some labels are produced from only
ground warp and weft.

Size:
The shape of the label varies widely, in most cases labels are manufactured in rectangular, square,
triangular, circular and also of great many other shapes. There are very small labels e.g. 1cmX1cm,
3cmx6cm or even greater.

Loom: Narrow looms or ordinary loom like Needle loom, multi-shuttle, jacquard.
Production Flow chart of woven label:
Initial assessment of the ability of the concerned factory to produce the supplied label sample. If able to produce it
then…

Detail investigation of the specification of the label e.g. EPI, PPI, total number of ends & picks, yarns count, color
threads detailing as well.

Development of the design by scanning or by free hand drawing or by other means

Edition of the design so that it can be woven into fault free label

Transfer of the design to the loom

Arrangement of necessary warp, weft and figuring yarn

Production of fabric according to design

Finishing of woven label

Sending this label to the customer for getting approval

After getting approval, setting Correction has been made by

for mass production the customer
Properties of label:

Labels should have all the properties of the fabric in the garment. These include,
➢ Good colorfastness to washing, laundering, and perspiration
➢ Must have high safe ironing temperature at least equal to that of garment
➢ If the garment has any special finishes, in that case the label must also be finished
➢ Must be strong and stable so that it is not damaged during the useful life of the article on
which it is attached.

Label production & printing explore below link…

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 Lace Fabrics
Definition:
Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine
or by hand.
Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made with cotton
thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be made of
synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or silver wire instead of
thread.
History:
The origin of lace is disputed by historians. An Italian claim is a will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family. A
Flemish claim is lace on the alb of a worshiping priest in a painting about 1485 by Hans Memling. But since
lace evolved from other techniques, it is impossible to say that it originated in any one place.
The late 16th century marked the rapid development of lace, both needle lace and bobbin lace became
dominant in both fashion as well as home décor. For enhancing the beauty of collars and cuffs, needle lace
was embroidered with loops and picots.
Lurex Star Embroidery Sequins Lace Fabric
Main Features of lace fabrics: Tulle Mesh
▪ Lace is an open work fabric consisting of a network of yarns formed into intricate designs.
▪ Lace may be hand or m/c made, and intricate patterns can be produced by either technique
▪ Both narrow and wide lace fabrics are available where the edge of the fabric may be
straight or cured
▪ Used as trimmings for table cloths, curtains, handkerchiefs, dresses, and underwear.
▪ Lace consist of two elements,
i) The pattern, flower, or group, which forms the closer-worked and more solid portion, and
ii) The ground or filling, which serves to hold the pattern together.
Parts of lace construction:

In identifying various kinds of lace, references have been made to

their designs. These patterns are constructed of different parts,
each having a particular designation.

Bride or Reseau:
It is the fine yarn that forms the mesh which provides the sheer
ground (background) between the prominent parts of the pattern.

Cordonnet:
It is the heavy yarn that outlines the pattern.

Picot:
It is a decorative loop used both in the pattern and on the edge of
the lace.

Toile:
It represents the predominant parts of the pattern made by
braiding, knotting, looping, or twisting the yarn.
 Types of Lace
Two types,
1. Handmade or Real lace: Handmade laces are created by manipulating a single yarn or group of yarns with bobbins,
needles, and hooks to produce intricate stitch formation. The major classifications of handmade laces are,

Bobbin lace(on pillow) Needle point lace Crocheted(including duchesse) Embroidered lace Darned Lace(including some filet lace) knotted Tatting(by shuttle)

2. Machine made lace: Machine made laces are made so expertly so that the average customer can’t able to determine
whether it is m/c made or handmade. Examples as below,

Leavers lace Nottingham lace bobbin lace Raschel lace Ratine lace Schiffli embroidery lace
 End Uses of lace fabric:

Insertion
Insertion is a band of lace sewn between two pieces of fabric or on a
single piece of fabric at the straight top or bottom edges. A variety of
insertion is footing, which has a straight edge at top and bottom but
no patterns. Footing is often used at the bodice or at the bottom hem
of a slip.
Basic Lace Insertion by Machine
Beading
Beading has slots through which ribbon may be run. These slots may
be found in edgings or galloons but are much more common in
insertions.

Edging
An edging is a lace never more than 18” wide that is straight at the top
and scalloped at the bottom. It is sewn to the edge of a dress, gown,
Ivory pearl beaded lace trim
blouse, handkerchief, or lingerie.

Medallion
A medallion is a lace in a single design that can be appliquéd to a
Cotton Lace Edge Trim
fabric ground for ornamentation. It is sometimes used in the corners
of napkins, or towels or as an ornament for a dress, blouse or lingerie.

Medallion Lace Top

 End Uses of lace fabric:
Lace is a decorative fabric used in apparel and home furnishings. Narrow laces are
used for trims and insertions; wide lace fabrics are used for curtains, table cloths, and
garments. Laces are made in different widths for different uses. For example, a
narrow lace with a scalloped edge is used for trimming a baby’s dress; a lace with slits
or eyelets is so made that ribbon may be run through it.

There are seven major uses of lace as below,

All-over laces
An all over lace is a fabric up to 36” width with the design or pattern spread over the
width of the fabric and repeated in its length. Many kinds of design motifs and colors
are used. The fabric can be produced in widths of over one yard (1m) that are devoid
of scallops. The fabric is cut and solid from the bolt like woven dress goods. The
While Flower Lace
dressmaker cuts it to pattern and makes it up into formal evening, dinner, and All over lace Flouncing Bodycon Dress
cocktail dress and blouses.

Flouncing
Flouncing applies to laces 18 to 36 inches wide with a plain edge at the top and a
scalloped edge at the bottom of the fabric. It is used for wide ruffles or flounces.
Often these flounces are arranged in tiers to form a skirt.

Gallon
A galloon is a lace up to 18 inches wide with a scalloped edge at top and bottom. It
may be used as an insertion between two cut edges of fabric.

Galloon Lace
 Net Fabrics
Net or netting is any textile in which the yarns are fused, looped or knotted at their intersections,
resulting in a fabric with open spaces between the yarns.
Main Features of Net Fabrics:
➢ It is open mesh form fabric. Mesh types are square, hexagonal, an octagonal
➢ May be made of any kind of fiber that depends on softness and stiffness
➢ Net fabrics are relatively fragile and require care in handling and cleaning.
➢ Comparatively large mesh of knotted nets does not slip, spread, or distort during use. Knotted nets
are used for hammocks and fishing nets
➢ Light weight nets have been made in Tricot or Raschel machine through interloping instead of
knotting.
➢ Primary use of net fabrics into apparel, although some are used in decorative dress ornamentation,
curtains, window hangings, table cloths etc.

Hammocks Fishing nets Used in apparel

Types
There is a variety of netting; some are produced under specific trademarks.
Among the best known standard fabrics are noted here. These nets are
classified as bobbinet, fishnet, filet, Tulle.

Bobbinet – It is a hexagonal mesh that may be very thin and transparent

(bridal illusion) or fairly coarse and opaque (casement cloth), depending on
the yarn count of the material used to produce it. Most bobbinet sold in the
United States is produced in England and France.
Bobbinet
Tulle – It is a fine, stiff hexagonal net made from silk or nylon yarns. It is very
similar to bobbinet but lighter in weight than bridal illusion; some references
do not separate bobbinet and tulle. It is generally used for trimming or over Tulle
draping of dress goods.

Fishnet – It is a coarse open-mesh construction created by knotting the mesh

in a manner similar to a fisherman’s knot.

Filet net – It is made with a square mesh, and maline net, used in millinery, is a
fine, very thin, diaphanous; open a diamond shape with hexagonal holes. Fishnet

Filet net
Uses of Net fabrics:
a. Netting is one of the key components to fishing in mass quantities. This textile is used because of its sturdy
yet flexible origin, which can carry weight yet, still be lightweight and compactable. Fisherman use netting when
trawling, because it is sturdy enough to carry large amounts of weight as fish are trapped, pulled, then lifted out
of water.

b. Net is also used in medical practices to provide fabric insulation and wrapping under an industry standard
sling. In the medical practice, netting provides cushion and protection, when used in layers, but still allows the
skin to breathe under the fabric.

c. Net is commonly used in camping tents. Air can easily pass through the holes, which allow breathability
that doesn’t trap bacteria, and remain impermeable to pests and insects.

d. Netting is often used for luggage bags to create transparent, breathable compartments that allow people
to store items.

Self Study: Difference between net & lace fabrics

 Leno or Gauze Fabrics
Main Features of Leno or Gauze fabrics:
Leno or gauze is a weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other. Warp yarns work in a groups, usually
pairs of two, one yarn of each pair is crossed over the other before the filling yarn is inserted.

The fabrics produced by this method are employed for curtainings, shirtings and for blouse and dress materials as well as
for various industrial uses such as filter cloths, screens and sieves. Their great merit lies in a very considerable stability of
the interlacing combined with its open nature. The size of the interstices can be determined precisely and will remain stable
and uniform even under a degree of pressure. The yarns used most frequently in the manufacture of these fabrics are
cotton, spun rayon staple, cotton/polyester blends, filament polyamide and polyester, glass, and occasionally silk. Fabric
weight depends on the thickness of the yarns, which could be of spun, filament, or combinations of these yarns.

On the leno loom, the action of one warp yarn is similar to the action of the warp in plain weave. The doup attachment, a
hairpin-like device at the heddle, alternatively pulls the second warp yarn up or down to the right or left with each pick
passage. This causes the pair of warps to be twisted, in effect, around each weft yarn.

Due to the friction associated with this system of weaving, yarns susceptible to static electrification should be well protected
either by lubrication or by other techniques of static elimination or prevention.
The Basic Sheds of Leno weaving
This is ensured by the doup, and the shed on the left thus formed is illustrated schematically at A in Figure 12.3 and is known as the
open shed Making the crossing end lift on the right involves first pulling it across from the normal side, i.e. the side on which it was
drawn through, to the 'wrong' side which again is accomplished with the aid of the doup. This shed, known as the crossed shed, is
illustrated at B in Figure 12.3 and requires additionally the operation of an easer, an auxiliary element, which gives-in temporarily an
extra length of yarn required during the formation of the crossed shed.

The main methods of production of leno and

gauze
structures in current use may be listed as
follows:
(1) Flat steel doups with an eye.
(2) Flat steel doups with a slot.
(3) Gauze and tug reed mechanisms.
(4) Eyed needle and slider frame devices.
(5) Rotating bobbin and geared disc mounting.
Leno weaving with flat steel doups with an eye
The flat steel doup assembly or unit
consists of a doup, shown at D in Figure
12.4, and two lifting healds designated HI
and H2
The formation of the leno sheds in this
assembly is illustrated at O, X and P
in Figure 12.5 which respectively show the
open, crossed, and plain sheds.

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Leno weaving by simultaneous bottom & top douping:
The system in which the two ends which form a leno weave are both drawn
through the eye of a doup needle, one operating as a bottom doup and the
other as the top doup, is particularly useful in weaving yarns which are
susceptible
to sideways deflections. In ordinary forms of leno weaving formation of the
crossed shed inevitably results in severe angular deflections of the crossing ends
and a degree of rubbing between the yarns or between the yarn and the healds.
Some materials, such as fibre glass or low twist woollen yarns, would be difficult
to weave in those conditions which can be appreciably alleviated by the use of
the double-doup mounting.
The principle of operation of this type of mounting is illustrated at X, 0 and
P in Figure 12.13

Leno weaving by to & fro rotary disk motion

Leno Weaving principle:
Leno is made with a doup attachment,(it is a device used on looms to create the leno weave, in which warp yarns
cross over each other to create an oen, stable woven structure.) which may be used with a plain or a dobby loom.
The attachment consists of a thin needle supported by two heddles. One yarn of each pair is threaded through an
eye at the upper end of the needle, and the other yarn is drawn between the two heddles. Both yarns are
threaded through the same dent in the reed. During weaving, when one of the two heddles is raised, the yarn that
is threaded through the needle is drawn across the left. When the other heddle is raised, the same yarn is drawn
across to the right.

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