Evaluation of photoprotective activity of different herbal extracts for application in sunscreen

products

Xuan-Tien Le1,2*, Yen-Phuong Dang1,2, Khanh-Uyen Tran-Nguyen1,2

1 Department of Chemical Engineering, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology
(HCMUT), Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
2 Vietnam National University Ho Chi Minh City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
*Corresponding author: tien.le@hcmut.edu.vn

The main theme of this research was to screen for tyrosinase inhibition from extracts of
seven medicinal plants for the purpose of identifying skin-whitening ingredients in
cosmetics. Specifically, the botanical parts include Morus alba L. fruit, Pachyrhizus
erosus L. fruit, Glycyrrhiza uralensis F. root, Lonicera japonica T. flower,
Chrysanthemum indicum L. flower, Momordica charantia L. leaf and Carica papaya L.
fruit, which extracted in safe solvents as ethanol and water. The results showed that the
tyrosinase inhibitory activity was higher in the ethanol-extracted products. Meanwhile,
Carica papaya had high inhibitory (54.5 ± 2.97%, second only to Glycyrrhiza uralensis)
and was widely grown in Viet Nam. Hence, this fruit pulp was chosen to study the
suitable extracting conditions. The optimal conditions were found, with the absolute
ethanol (EtOH) solvent, solid/solvent ratio of 1:8 (g/mL), 2 times extraction per patch,
each time at 50 ⁰C for 30 minutes. The expected value of extraction yield was 22.1%,
tyrosinase inhibition IC50 = 768.9 μg/mL, antioxidation (DPPH method) IC 50 = 1974.5
µg/mL.

Keywords: Carica papaya, tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, extraction

1. Introduction
Sunlight is a continuous spectrum of electromagnetic energy separated into three primary
wavelength spectrums: ultraviolet, visible, and infrared [27]. UV may have a wide range of impacts on
cells, tissues, and substances, which leads to a number of skin conditions, including inflammation, aging
and cancer [26]. Induced inflammation is one of the most visible acute consequences of UV on the skin.
UVB activates a cascade of cytokines, vasoactive, and neuroactive mediators in the skin, resulting in an
inflammatory reaction and “sunburn” [34, 35]. Many of these DNA changes can cause mutations and
cancer [29, 30].
Sunscreen products are widely used to protect the skin from sunburn and damage. They often contain
UV filters that shield against UVA and UVB rays. Inorganic UV filters provide effective protection but
may leave white streaks on the skin, while organic UV filters create a thin, light film without streaks but
can cause skin irritation and degrade in sunlight. Scientifically, there is a growing trend towards the
utilization of natural extracts in personal care products. Apart from their recognized antioxidant
properties, compounds such as polyphenols and flavonoids exhibit highly conjugated systems that
enhance their photoresistance capabilities. Extensive research has been conducted globally, including in
Vietnam, investigating this particular activity. However, there are still some constraints associated with
the limited exploration of indigenous Vietnamese plant species in this context. This study screened twelve
plant extracts and selected four with high potential Camellia sinensis L. leaves, Moringa oleifera L.
leaves, Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramat. Flowers, Gardenia jasminoides L. fruits. The antioxidant and
anti-photoprotective activities of these extracts were investigated using ethanol as a safe solvent. The
extracts were then incorporated into a base formulation and tested for durability using the SPF index
under three different conditions.
2.1. Materials
Materials were provided for this research at different locations in Viet Nam.Materials were provided for
this research at different locations in Viet Nam. Particularly, Cynara scolymus L. leaves (artichoke),
Camellia sinensis L. leaves (green tea), Moringa oleifera L. leaves (moringa), Lactuca indica L. leaves
(dandelion) were collected in Bao Loc province. The remaining medicinal plants provided by Thaphaco
Herbal Co., Ltd including Betula alba L. barks (birch), Garcinia mangostana L. barks (mangosteen),
Kaempferia galanga L. fruits (aromatic ginger), Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramat. flowers (white
chrysanthemum), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L. flowers (hibicus), Docynia indica L. fruits (docynia),
Spirulina platensis L. leaves (spirulina), Gardenia jasminoides L. fruits (gardenia). Raw materials after
collection were pre-treated, dried at 50 ⁰C by dryer until the moisture content is ≤ 12%, grinded into
powder and stored (at room temperature) for preparation of future studies.
2.2 Reagent
Al2O3, Ethanol (99.5%), Methanol, DMSO, NaNO2, Na2CO3, Gallic acid (99.5%), Quercetin, DPPH,
Folin-Ciocalteu reagent
2.3. Screening and evaluating photoprotective activity of different herbal extracts.
With the purpose of valuable application to cosmetic products, the extraction process with ethanol was
chosen as non-toxic and inexpensive solvents.
2.3.1. Determination in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of Extracts
The SPF value of the extract was determined by Mansur method described by Mansur et al. in 1986 [47],
with some changes to suit actual conditions. An equation was developed by Mansur et al which
substitutes the in vitro method proposed by Sayre et al. [96] by using a UV spectrophotometer [47]. EE
(λ) –erythemal effect spectrum; I (λ) – solar intensity spectrum; Abs (λ) – absorbance of sunscreen
product; CF – correction factor (= 10).
320
∑ (3)
SPF = CF× 290 EE(λ)×I(λ)×Abs(λ)
2.5. Development of SPF of extracts in sunscreen lotion formulation
Skin care products are formulated and developed on the biological activities of the extracts which have
highest SPF Value. With O/W properties, water accounts for the highest percentage in the composition
table and 1-5% concentration of extracts. Some base ingredients used in the formulation include an
emulsifier (Naterol 165v), an emulsifier (Cetostearyl alcohol), an emollient (Stearic acid), a humectant
(Propandiol, Shea Butter), a carrier oil (Triethylhexanoin), a thickener (Xanthan Gum Clear), a
preservative (PEHG), and fragrance [101].
2.5.1. In vitro SPF determination of the formulation
About 1.0 g of the sample was diluted suitably with ethanol. The absorbances of the sample were taken in
the range of 290–320 nm at every 5 nm using ethanol as blank. The SPF of the solutions were calculated
using the following equation [37,38]. EE (λ) – erythemal effect spectrum; I (λ)– solar intensity spectrum;
Abs (λ) – absorbance of sunscreen product; CF – correction factor (= 10).
 320 (3)
∑
SPF = CF× 290 EE(λ)×I(λ)×Abs(λ)
4. Conclusion
In this scientific study, the photoprotective activity and bioactivities of 12 herbal extracts commonly
found in Vietnam were examined. Among the extracts tested, the extract derived from Gardenia
jasminoides (gardenia) demonstrated the highest sun protection factor (SPF) value, indicating its potential
as an effective photoprotective agent. Further investigation focused on four extracts: white
chrysanthemum, gardenia, moringa, and green tea. The results showed that Gardenia jasminoides L. fruits
extract possessed the highest total polyphenol content (TPC), indicating strong antioxidant properties.
Camellia sinensis L. leaves extract exhibited the highest total flavonoid content (TFC), followed by
Moringa oleifera L. leaves extract. Additionally, Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramat. flowers extract and
Camellia sinensis L. leaves extract demonstrated superior antioxidant activity compared to Moringa
oleifera L. leaves extract and Gardenia jasminoides L. fruits extract. Importantly, these extracts
demonstrated significant photoprotective efficacy and remained stable under different conditions.
5. Acknowledgement
We acknowledge the support of time and facilities from Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology
(HCMUT), VNU-HCM for this study.
References