1955 and 1956 Plymouth Service Manual

MyMopar.
com
PLYMOUTH SERVICE MANUAL
1956
P L Y O U T H
1955
P-26, P-27
56P128
MyMopar.com
Senvic¢...
ô«men,
Customer confidence pays dividends over the years. Treating a customer's

car as you would your own makes an owner feel that you are rendering a
service, not simply selling a repair job. There's a great difference between
an honest desire to be of friendly service to a customer and a desire to
simply sell a job of service! A customer quickly recognizes the service man
who takes a personal interest in his welfare, and gets a feeling of confi-
dence and satisfaction that makes "habit" customers out of "now¯and¯
then" customers.
Experience has shown that one of the best ways to create customer
confidence is to offer safety inspections and road tests as a part of your
service to the motorists in your community. Like other successful service men,
you will find that motorists appreciate rather than resent having your recom-
mendations about what should be done to maintain safe vehicle operation.
There are over fifty-four million automotive vehicles in op-
eration in the United States. Every year as new vehicles are put into
use, new inexperienced drivers take the wheel, increasing the problem of
handling traffic on our streets and highways. There must be greater effort
on the part of everyone concerned to help keep these cars in safe operating
condition. Much of the responsibility falls on the shoulders of service men.
Service men have the responsibility of keeping motorists
informed about the overall condition of their vehicles—par-
ticularly those units upon which the driver depends for safe
operation.
Service men have the responsibility of educating drivers
about the hazards of driving an unsafe vehicle.
Service men have the responsibility of advising drivers about
the need for periodical safety-inspections.
Service men have the responsibility of keeping drivers in-
formed about the need for periodical safety maintenance.
Service men who accept these responsibilities and treat each
customer's car as though it were his own, will reap the benefits
of customer confidence and satisfaction.
MyMopar.com
Starting Vehicle Numbers

Model
Detroit Evansville Los Angeles
P-26 Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere 13,835,001 20,745,001 25,180,001

VEHICLE NUMBER LOCATION

The vehicle number (serial number) is located on a plate which is attached
to the left front door hinge pillar post
ENGINE NUMBER LOCATION

The engine number is stamped on a boss on the left side at the front of the
cylinder block on the PowerFlow 6 engines. On 157, 167, and 180 horsepower
Hy-Fire V-8 engines, the number is located on top of the engine at the front,
next to the oil filler pipe. On 187 and 200 horsepower Hy-Fire V-8 engines, the
number is located on the left front face of the cylinder block.
BODY NUMBER LOCATION

The body number is stamped on a plate which is attached to the left side of
the engine side of the dash.
Vote ¢utd Sþec¿ftcœUo*¢>

Model P¯26 P-28 P-27 P-29
Number oí Cylinders 6 V-8 V-8
Bore & Stroke 3½ x 4¾ in. 3%x3½in. 3%x3½in. 3¾x3¼in. 3 ¾ x 3 ½ i n .
Piston Displacement 230 cu. in. 241 cu. in. 260 cu. in. 270 cu. in. 277 cu. in.
Compression Ratio 7.4 to 1 7.6 to 1 7.6 to 1 7.6 to 1 8.0 to 1 8.0 to 1
AAaximum 117 at 131 at 157 at 167 at 180 at 187 at
Brake Horsepower 3600 RPM 3600 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM
Taxable Horsepower 25.4 25.4 37.9 40.6 42.2 45
Maximum Torque 194 at 1600 2OOatl6OO 217 at 2400 231 at 2400 260 at 2400 265 at 2400
Wheelbase 115 in.
Tread—Front 58.4 in.
Tread—Rear 58.5 in.
Overall Length 203.8 in. 204.8 in. 203.8 in. 204.8 in.
OveraU Width 74.6 in.
Turning Diameter 40 ft. 1 in. 40.6 ft.
MyMopar.com
This Plymouth Service Manual has been prepared as a reference book

of complete service information for the Plymouth models illustrated on
Page 2.
For convenience, the contents of the manual have been arranged by sec-
tions. Each section contains charts of data and specifications, adjustments
and repair information, and diagnosis procedures. A list of the subjects cov-
ered in each section will be found at the beginning of the section. A complete
alphabetical index appears in the back of the manual.
To help diagnose the service needs of the Plymouth car, this manual con-
tains over 200 diagnosis procedures. In most instances it is advisable to
make a road test to verify the condition described by the customer so that
the corrections given in the diagnosis procedures can be applied.
Throughout the manual, service data and specifications are given in chart
form. The clearances and specifications shown are based on the type of
equipment normally available for service work and do not in all cases
represent the manufacturing specifications.
This manual contains service information for units originally installed on

Plymouth cars as "special equipment." No attempt has been made to desig-
nate such units as "special equipment" in this manual.
CHRYSLER CORPORATION
Plymouth Division
Service Department
Detroit, Michigan
MyMopar.com
NUT SUSHtNG AND SPACER

WASHER
BOLT
BAR
SEAL
SEAL
SCREW
LOCK
BUSHING
BUSHING
5SPÌO58
Figure 1 — Front Suspension Parts
MyMopar.com
SECTION I
FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM

Page
Data and Specifications 8
1. Front Wheel Alignment 7
2. Factors of Front Wheel Alignment 7
3. Front Wheel Alignment Corrections 10
4. Tie Rod Ends 12
5. Steering Knuckle and Support 12
6. Upper Control Arm 14
7. Upper Control Arm Pin, Bushing and Dust Seal 14
8. Lower Control Arm and Front Spring 14
9. Front Shock Absorber 15
10. Diagnosis Procedures 16
1. FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2. FACTORS OF FRONT WHEEL

The need for checking the alignment of the front ALIGNMENT
wheels is usually indicated by the way the car The factors of front wheel alignment are gener-
steers, such as a tendency for the car to lead to ally considered to be camber and king pin inclina-
one side, or to wander. Certain types of tire wear, tion, caster, toe-in of the front wheels in the
such as toe-in or toe-out wear, or camber wear, straight-ahead position, and toe-out of the front
indicate the need for checking some of the factors wheels on turns.
of wheel alignment.
In addition to these factors, there are other con-
If it is considered necessary to check the wheel ditions that affect steering control. These are: im-
alignment of a new car, it should be remembered proper tire pressure; wheel wobble; unbalanced
that the front wheel suspension parts are closely wheel and tire assemblies; sagged or broken front
fitted and their movement is stiff. As a result, a or rear springs; damaged steering gear parts;
new car will not always settle to the position where dragging brakes or bent frame.
correct readings can be obtained. When servicing
a new car, it is best to check only the toe-in of the Front wheel alignment settings must be held to
front wheels. After the car has been driven about specifications within reasonable limits in order
3,000 miles, the stiffness of new parts will be re- that the vehicle may exhibit its best steering char-
lieved, and if wheel alignment corrections are acteristics and in order to hold the rate and un-
necessary, they can be made at the normal riding evenness of tire tread wear to a minimum.
level. Wheel alignment measurements should be taken
with recommended tire pressures with no passen-
ger load, and with car standing in its normal level
position with no jacks under it. Camber, caster and
IMPORTANT toe measurements must be made with the front
wheels on floating turn-tables.
Front wheel alignment equipment should be
checked frequently with the proper checking CAMBER AND KING PIN INCLINATION
equipment. Equipment that has been damaged
CAMBER is the amount in degrees that the front
by dropping or rough handling should be care- wheels incline from the vertical when viewed from
fully checked and adjusted before it is used. the front of the car. See figure 4. Wheels with posi-
The floor must be level when using portable tive camber are farther apart at the top than at the
equipment. bottom. Wheels with negative camber are farther
apart at the bottom than at the top.
MyMopar.com
8 PLYMOUTH SERVICE MANUAL

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Models P-26-P-28 P-27-P-29
Type Coil Spring—Independent Suspension
Camber —Y/idegree on Left — 0 degree on Right
Caster - 2 to 0 degrees
Toe-In ½inch
Toe-Out on Turns With inside wheel at 20 degrees, outside wheel should be
1712 to 19 degrees
King Pin Angle 5 to 6 ½ degrees
King Pin Bushings—Ream Upper .7960 to .7975 in. Upper—Needle Bearing

after installation Lower .7960 to .7975 in. Lower—.7960 to .7975 in.
Steering Knuckle
Thrust Bearing .005 to .010 inch
Tie Rods
Short Rod Nominal Length 1 2 % in. 2 0 % in.
Long Rod Nominal Length 33% in. 2 0 % in.
Wheel Bearing Type Tapered Roller
Tread Front 58.44 in.

Rear 58.50 in.
Wheel Base 115 in.
Sway Eliminator Mounted on frame and connected to lower control arm through
rubber cushions
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Lower control arm bar bushing 165 ft. lbs. (min.)
Lower control arm pin 100 to 110 ft. lbs.
Upper control arm pivot bar bushing 120 to 140 ft. lbs.
Upper control arm pin 100 to 110 ft. lbs.
Tie rod clamp bolts 10 to 15 ft. lbs.
Upper control arm pivot bar bolts 80 ft. lbs.
Lower control arm pivot bar bolts 60 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
T'/ulN.
Vi« •N.
3'/«IN.
7`/4 IN.
Figure 2 — Upper Control Arm Dimensions Figure 3 — Lower Control Arm Dimensions
To counteract the normal crown of the road the

camber of the wheel normally running on the With positive caster, the top of the king pin tilts
higher part of the crown should be ½° greater toward the rear of the car, while negative caster
than that of the opposite wheel. means that the top of the king pin tilts toward the
front.
KING PIN INCLINATION is the amount in de-
grees that the top of the king pin inclines away Toe-in is the difference in the distance (at hub
from the vertical—toward the center of the car. height) across the front and across the back of the
King pin inclination is built into the steering front wheels while the wheels are in the straight-
knuckle and bears a positive relationship to cam- ahead driving position. See Figure 10. When the
ber. If camber can be adjusted within limits, it is distance between the front wheels at the front and
usually considered unnecessary to check king rear are the same, the front wheels have zero (0)
pin inclination. toe-in. If the distance at the front is less than the
distance of the rear, the wheels have "toe-in."
CASTER
Caster is the amount in degrees that the top of FRONT

the king pin is inclined toward the front or rear of — NEGATIVE CASTER 4 · POSITIVE CASTER
the car. See Figure 5.
TIRE CENTER LINE ™

CAMBER ANGLE —
VERTICAL LINE
K!N6 PIN ANGLE
KING P\H CENTER LINE-
Figure 4 — Camber Angle and King Pin Inclination Figure 5 — Caster Angle
MyMopar.com
I FIND THIS |
• DIFFERENCE ·
COMPAR
TOE
.OUT
Figure 6 — Steering Geometry on Turns Figure 7 — Measuring Front Spring Height
TOE-OUT ON TURNS 2. Then find the difference between the same

When front wheels are turned to the right or left, measurements taken at the other lower control arm.
they usually toe-out. See Figure 6. When turning, 3. Compare the difference in the measurements
both front wheels must travel in circles which have of one side as compared with the other. There
a common center. The circle traveled by the inside should be no more than ¼" difference between
front wheel has a smaller radius than that of the these measurements.
circle traveled by the outside front wheel. Because
of this, the inside front wheel must turn further, Front spring height will be affected if the rear
causing the front wheels to toe-out. spring height varies more than ¾ inch on one side
as compared with the other side. Compare rear
spring height by measuring with a steel tape from
3. FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT the spring plates to the frame on each side of the
CORRECTIONS car.
Before attempting to correct the alignment of the Coil springs are identified by part numbers near
front wheels, the tires should be properly inflated the end of the coil. The marks following the
and inspected for wear. An inspection of the front stamped numbers correspond to the last digit in
suspension system should be made for evidence the part number. For example on 6 cylinder
of wear. The car should be empty of all luggage or models, part number 1618524 will appear as
load except the spare tire. (Where a car operates 161852 ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ).
under a loaded condition at all times it is best to
set wheel alignment with this load in the car.) Set- On 8 cylinder models part number 1618753 will
tle springs and shock absorbers into their normal appear as = 875 ( ) ( ) ( ).
positions by bouncing front end of car up and down
several times. The car must be on a level surface Each mark following the stamped number on
before any corrections are made. the coil indicates one number higher. The part
number also indicates a definite step in relation to
car height, the higher the number, the higher the
MEASURING FRONT SPRING HEIGHT car will be raised.
To measure front spring height, proceed as fol-
lows. See Figure 7: CHANGING SPRING HEIGHT
1. Find the difference between the following Car height can be changed approximately ¾
measurements taken at one lower control arm. inch by using a lower or higher part number. For
example, if a spring with two marks is replaced
(a) From floor to center of grease fitting in the
with a spring of the same part number series that
front bushing of the lower control arm bar.
has three marks, the car height on that side will be
(b) Fromfloorto center of lower control arm pin. increased approximately % inch.
MyMopar.com
FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM 11
CAMBER AND KING PIN INCLINATION

To adjust camber, loosen lock screw (Figure 8),
and turn the eccentric bushing. The correct setting
can be obtained within ½ revolution in either di-
rection from the starting point. Do not turn the
eccentric bushing until it binds against either side
of the upper control arm under any condition. Ad- AMBER ADJUSTING WRENCH
just camber to the correct specifications as shown
on page 8. The left side should be set ½ degree
greater than the right side to offset the tendency
of the car to lead to the side on a highly crowned
road.
If the camber cannot be adjusted within standard
Figure 8 — Adjusting Camber Angle
limits, and spring height has been checked, meas-
ure the king pin inclination and inspect for bent
parts in the front suspension system.
CASTER
The specified caster angle of minus (—) 2 de-

grees to 0 degree is obtained by the proper assem-
bly of the upper and lower control arms. If the
caster angle does not come within these limits, look
for bent parts in the front suspension system.
TOE-IN
J. MEASURING TOE-IN — Spin front wheels

and scribe a thin line in the center of the tread of
each tire. Place wheels on turntables and set them
in the straight-ahead position. Turn steering wheel
full travel in both directions then return it to mid-
travel, with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead
position.
Figure 9 — Checking Camber
Measure the distance at hub height between
points marked "A" and points marked "B." See
Figure 10. The distance between points "A" should
be ¼" less than the distance between points "B."
2. ADJUSTING TOE-IN — With front wheels in
straight-ahead position, loosen clamping bolts on
the ends of the tie rods and adjust tie rods an equal
amount in proper direction until toe-in is ¼".
If road test shows the steering wheel to be improp-
erly centered, adjust both the rods an equal amount MEASURE DISTANCE BETWEEN "A
THEN
until the steering wheel is centered. MEASURE DISTANCE BETWEEN "B
DISTANCE "A" SHOULD 6£

!¾ in. l£55 THAN
Shortening the left and lengthening the right DISTANCE ••»"
tie-rod will move the steering wheel clockwise.

One full turn of the tie-rod will move the steering
wheel about three inches, measured at the rim. Figure 10 — Measuring Toe-In
MyMopar.com
12 PLYMOUTH SERVICE AAANUAL
When the toe-in adjustment is correct, position ASSEMBLY

the ends of the tie rods in the sockets so that both
When new tie rod ends are assembled to the rod,
studs are against either the front or back sides of
the ends must be threaded in the rod an equal
the sockets and tighten the clamp bolts. This will
amount. Clamp bolts should be tightened from 10
provide sufficient angular rotation of the tie rod on
to 15 foot pounds. If bolts are too tight, clamp will
the ball studs and prevent interference on extreme
be distorted and lose its clamping action. Always
turns. Tighten clamp bolts to 10 to 15 foot pounds.
make a final adjustment of toe-in after tie rod ends
If bolts are tightened too much, the clamp will be
have been installed. The tie rod ends must be po-
distorted, losing its clamping action. Always re-
sitioned to insure equal clearance between the
check the mid-position of steering wheel after
sockets and ball studs to prevent binding.
adjusting toe-in.
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
5. STEERING KNUCKLE AND
With the front wheels on turntables, check the
outer wheel angle with inner wheel at 20 degrees. SUPPORT
The turntable under the outer wheel should indi-
REMOVAL
cate 17½ to 19 degrees.
When it is necessary to service either the steer-
If the reading is not within these limits, the steering knuckle, or the support arm, it is recommended
ing knuckle arm or pitman arm may be bent. that the steering knuckle support, steering knuckle
and brake support be removed as an assembly so
that repairs can be made on a bench. Always
install new bushings, seals and lock pins when
overhauling the steering knuckle and support
4. TIE ROD ENDS assembly.
REMOVAL King pin bushings should be removed and in-
stalled with the use of tool C-328. See Figures 12
If the removal of the tie rod end proves to be diffi- and 13.
cult, insert a pry bar between the tie rod end and
the steering knuckle arm. Then jar the tie rod end This tool removes or installs either bushings or
loose by tapping on the rear end of the steering needle bearings in steering knuckle.
knuckle arm with a hammer. See Figure 11.
Tie rod ends should operate freely. If there is any
evidence of looseness or binding in a tie-rod end, a
new one should be installed.
Figure 12 — Removing Steering Knuckle Bushings

34x146 with Special Tool C¯328
Figure 11 — Removing tie Rod End From (Use of proper size adaptor (2) will remove old part (1)
Steering Knuckle Arm without damaging steering knuckle.)
MyMopar.com
shown in Figure 14. Install lower bushing and line

ream both bushings with reamer and pilot bushing,
tool C-691. See Figure 15.
NOTE
On 8 cylinder models the upper bearing
must be removed during this operation and
temporarily replaced with the pilot bushing
to align the reamer. Reamer can be used with-
out pilot bushing on cars using two bushings.
When a welch plug has been installed and

properly seated with a special tool C-618, be sure
to stake it. See Figure 16.
I7XW
Figure 13 — Installing Steering Knuckle Bushings
with Special Tool C-328
(Use of proper size adaptor (1) fits bushing or bearing (2)

and follows it through to its proper location.)
TOOL C369
IDfcNT!F¡CAÍ¡ON
MARK
Figure 15 — Line Reaming King Pin Bushings

with Special Tool C-369
BUSHING
IDENTIFICATION STAKE IN PLA·l I
AS S H O W N
Figure 14 — King Pin Bushings and

Bearing Installed
NOTE
On 8 cylinder models, the upper steering
knuckle location has a needle bearing in place STAKE SECURELY
4 PLACES AS »
of a bushing. S H O W N BOTH '
ENDS
INSTALLING STEERING KNUCKLE BUSHINGS

Install the upper bushing from the top oí the
steering knuckle. Install upper and lower bushing Figure 16 —Welch Plug Installed and King Pin
with the grease groove toward the welch plug as Lock Pin Staked
MyMopar.com
6. UPPER CONTROL ARM lower control arm, and remove the wheel and tire
assembly. Then, remove the pivot bar attaching
Basically the upper control arm remains the bolts and lift the control arm up and outward.
same as those used in previous models, however
it is approximately ¼" wider and is mounted to the To install the new eccentric bushing in the steer-
frame with two bolts instead of four. Due to these ing knuckle support, place one seal on the bushing
changes the method of centering the pivot bar is at the hexagonal end. Place the other seal on the
somewhat different, therefore, it is no longer pos- opposite boss of the upper control arm.
sible to use tool C-608 for locating the center. It can Then with tool C-736, depress the outer edge of
be used, however, to maintain the fixed dimension lip of the seal. See Figure 17. Slide the control arm
of 7¼ inches of the upper control arm when and seal onto the steering knuckle support until
new pivot bar, bushings, etc. are installed. See both seals fit snugly over the bushing. Make sure
Figure 2. the pin hole is in alignment. Next, remove the tool
To install a new pivot bar and bushings after the and install the pin.
removal of the others proceed as follows: Line up the pivot bar holes with the frame cross
Center the pivot bar with dust seals installed in member holes and install the attaching bolts and
the control arm (as it. would be when installed in tighten.
vehicles). While in this centered position, start
bushings evenly on both ends of the pivot bar and
lubricate them with a suitable lubricant. Place tool 8. LOWER CONTROL ARM AND
C-608 on the pivot bar and expand the two jaws of FRONT SPRING
the tool by tightening the expander wedge nut un-
til the jaws of the tool are just snug against the REMOVAL
inside of the control arm.
When removing a lower control arm assembly
and front spring, remove the shock absorber and
wheel and tire. Raise car and place a jack or sup-
CAUTION port under the lower control arm to be removed.
Make sure jaws of tool are seating fully on Place jack or support under frame near the up-
inside face and not binding against control sweep at the front. Support the lower control arm
arm flange. and lower the car. Remove the control arm pin and
raise front end of car to relieve pressure on front
spring. When pressure is off front spring, remove
Clamp tool and control arm assembly in vise support which was placed under control arm,
making sure pivot bar remained centered. Thread swing arm down and remove front spring. The con-
the bushings into each side of the control arm until trol arm can then be removed.
the shoulder of the bushings contact the surface of
the control arm. Tighten with a torque wrench from
\fcAi AND B'<`>HING
120 to 130 foot pounds. Remove tool and check IN' lÀÍUNK~ P ' I
operation of the pivot bar for free movement (only
a moderate grip should be required to turn the
pivot bar).
NOTE
Pivot bar may if necessary be rotated 1 turn

in either direction to correct a slight centering
error.
7. UPPER CONTROL ARM PIN, 46x43

BUSHING AND DUST SEAL
When replacing the pin, bushing or dust seal Figure 17 — Installing Upper Control Arm Pin
of the upper control arm, support car underneath Bushing and Dust Seals with Special Tool C-736
MyMopar.com
INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT
When overhauling the lower control arm assem-
bly, always install new pivot bar bushings and Make certain the spring is properly seated
dust seals. at both top and bottom.
Install dust seals on pivot bar and position pivot

bar in the control arm. Assemble tool C-594 to the 9. FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER
pivot bar.
REMOVAL
The lower control arm on 6 and 8 cylinder mod- The upper end of the piston rod has two flats to
els, basically and appearance wise remains the provide a means of holding the shock absorber
same. The spring seat is mounted to the lower side while removing the upper nut. After removing the
of the control arm. The lower control arm pivot bar upper nut, remove the two cap screws from the
mounting bolt locations are the same on 6 and 8 lower support bracket and remove the shock ab-
cylinder models. Due to the location of these sorber by pulling it downward through the coil
mounting holes, tool C-594 cannot be used for spring.
centering the lower pivot bar, but can be used
to maintain the set dimension of the control The lower bushing is assembled to the shock
arm when installing new pivot bar, etc. To cen- absorber by pressing it into the eye with a press
ter a replacement pivot bar, proceed as follows: fit. End pressure may be applied only to the outer
(See Fig. 3). sleeve of the bushing assembly. This can be easily
done in an arbor press by using a tubular drift
Install dust seals on pivot bar and clamp in vise, having a small clearance in the shock absorber
(flat mounting surface down). Center lower con- eye until it is centered or by using tool C-3413.
trol arm on pivot bar (bottom of spring seat up and
steering knuckle support end resting on bench). To replace an upper rubber bushing, remove in-
While in this centered position, start bushings ner sleeve and install new bushing in frame.
evenly on both ends of pivot bar and lubricate
them with a suitable lubricant.
CAUTION
Modify tool C-594 by removing locating studs Oil, soap, or other lubricants, except water,
(save studs for use on previous models) and place must not be used. The bushing assembly should
in position on pivot bar (open ends of tool down). be thoroughly cleaned before installation.
Making sure tool remains in place, thread the bush-
ing (one to your right) into control arm until the
shoulder of the bushing contacts machined surface
INSTALLATION
of control arm. Tighten to 180 foot pounds.
To replace shock absorber assembly extend
Remove tool from assembly and reverse position piston rod fully and place lower retainer (cup
of assembly in vise (top of spring seat up assembly washer) concave side up on piston rod.
resting on bench). Reposition tool C-594 on pivot
UPPER
bar and thread remaining bushing into control arm MOUNTING
using same torque. Remove tool and assembly
from vise and check pivot bar for free movement.
NOTE
Pivot bar may be rotated one turn in either LOWER MOUNTING

ASSEMBLY
direction to correct a slight centering error. SCREW
Place a jack or support under the lower control

arm, and lower the car to compress the spring. Line LOCK WASHER 55PJ014
up the knuckle support bushing and control arm.
Install pin and tighten nut to 90-110 foot pounds. Figure 18 — Front Shock Absorber Installation
MyMopar.com
Insert shock absorber through opening in spring

5. STEERING TUBE AND WORM ASSEMBLY—
seat so piston rod enters upper bushing. Install the
A bent steering tube and worm assembly will
two lower mounting screws and torque to 35 foot
cause hard steering and may result in the car
pounds. pulling to one side. To test for this condition, jack
Install upper retainer (cup washer) concave side up the front end of the car and turn steering wheel
down and nut. Tighten nut to 35 foot pounds. to extreme right and left. If intermittent drag is
felt, tube may be bent.
CAUTION
WANDER
Do not lubricate either the shock absorber,
piston rod or the rubber bushing. The term "wander" means the tendency of the
car to drift slightly to one side, then to the other,
under normal driving conditions while the driver
attempts to steer straight ahead.
10. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
This condition should not be confused with nor-
CAR LEADS TO ONE SIDE mal wander caused by high or gusty winds strik-
ing the side of the car when driving at high speeds.
The tendency of a car to lead to one side con-
tinuously is sometimes referred to as "pulling to J. KING PIN BUSHINGS AND STEERING CON-
the left," or "pulling to the right." Be sure to de- NECTIONS — To check king pin bushings for
termine whether the condition is due to driving looseness, jack up the front end of the car and
on highly crowned roads. move wheels in and out. The condition, if present,
can be determined by "feel."
J. CAMBER AND CASTER — If camber and
caster is not equal on each side, the car will lead If tightness appears to originate in the steering
to one side on a level road. gear or steering column, disconnect the steering
gear arm and turn the steering wheel, to check
With unequal camber, the car may lead to the for a bind in the steering column.
side which has the highest camber reading. If cas-
ter is not equal, the car may lead to the side having 2. STEERING WHEEL — An improperly cen-
the lowest caster reading. tered steering wheel will give the effect of wander.
The steering wheel is correctly centered when the
On most cars, the camber setting should agree spokes are equally positioned, with the front
with the specifications shown on page 8, but when wheels pointing straight ahead.
the car is driven on a highly crowned road, the
camber can be increased on the left side. However, 3. TIRES — A smooth tread on front tires, may
the camber for the left wheel should not be more cause wander when the car is driven over gravel
than ½ degree greater than that for the right wheel or "black-top" roads. Under-inflation of both front
within the specified limits. If the camber setting or rear tires may cause unstable steering and re-
exceeds this recommendation, excessive wear on sult in wander.
the left front tire may result. 4. CASTER — Bent front wheel suspension parts,
2. TIRES — Unequal tire pressure will cause the or unequal wheelbase, may create a change in
car to lead to the side having the lowest pressure. the caster great enough to cause the car to wander.
To check for these conditions, measure the wheel-
3. FRAME AND SUSPENSION UNITS — Bent base, center-to-center between the front and rear
suspension parts, or unequal wheelbase may cre- wheels on both sides. These measurements should
ate a change in camber and caster great enough to be equal. If they are not, look for: A broken main
cause the car to pull to one side. To check for leaf in rear spring; a broken center bolt in rear
these conditions, measure the wheelbase, center- spring; bent parts in front suspension system; or
to-center, between the front and rear wheels on a bent frame.
both sides. These measurements should be equal.
If they are not, look for: A broken main leaf in FRONT END NOISES
rear spring; a broken center bolt in rear spring;
bent parts in front suspension system; or a bent This paragraph is confined only to those noises
frame. which could originate in the front wheel suspen-
sion system. These noises should not be confused
4. BRAKES — Inspect the adjustment of each with those coming from other parts of the car. The
front and rear wheel brake for "Dragging." possible points where noise can originate are:
MyMopar.com
J. UPPER and LOWER CONTROL ARMS — In-

NECESSARY
spect for looseness in the upper and lower control CLEARANCE
arms by moving the steering knuckle support back
and forth with a pry bar. Looseness can be de-
termined by feel# or possibly by shiny spots on the
camber eccentric bushing on either side of the
wheel support.
Built-in clearance is designed into the threaded
bushings of the front suspension linkage to prevent
binding of the joints under deflection. Parts of the
linkage should not be replaced unless they cause
noise or unstable steering, and should never be BUSHING
replaced with tight fitting pins or bushings.
The threaded bushings of the front suspension
system require more clearance than a smooth pin NO CLEARANCE ON WORKING SIDE OF PIN
IN BUSHING-"V" THREAD DESIGN PREVENTS END
and bushing type joint. The threaded pin "rides"
PLAY OF PIN WHEN UNDER NORMAL LOAD
on the V shaped thread cut in the bushing. With
45X146
the weight of the car on the bushing, the side of
the pin thread bears against the side of the thread
cut in the bushing. New parts should not be in-
stalled unless there is endwise movement of the Figure 19 — Normal Clearance Between Pin
pin in the bushing. See Figure 19. and Bushing
2. WHEEL BEARINGS — To determine if the ings are at fault. Raise front wheels and check
wheel bearings are worn or damaged, road test for loose bearings by moving wheels in and out.
the car and apply brakes. This action will take If a wheel is loose, remove it and check condition
some of the load off the wheel bearings, and noise of bearings and bearing cups before tightening
if present, will diminish, indicating that the bear- the bearings.
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE
Models P-26—P-28 P-27—P-29
Type Semi-Floating
Drive Gear Type Hypoid
Ratios Conventional 3.73 to 1.
Optional—Mountains
and hilly country
4.1 to 1.
Overdrive 4.1 to 1.
Powerîlite 3.73 to 1. 3.54 to 1.
Optional—Mountains
and hilly country
3.9 to 1.
Ring Gear to Drive Pinion Backlash .006 to .010 in.
Differential Case Run-Out 0 to .003 in.
Differential Side Gear Clearance .004 to .012 in.
Axle Shaft End Play .003 to .008 in.
Drive Pinion Bearing Preload 20-30 in. lbs. without seal (See Page 24)
Lubricant Capacity 3 ½ pts.
Axle Shaft Nuts 142 ft. lbs. (min.)

Rear Axle Ring Gear Bolt Nuts 35 to 40 ft. lbs.
Differential Bearing Cap Screws 85 to 90 ft. lbs.
Drive Pinion Flange Nut 250 to 280 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
19
SECTION II
REAR AXLE
Page
1. Axle Drive Shafts, Seals and Bearings 19
2. Differential and Carrier Assembly 21
3. Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal 30
1. AXLE DRIVE SHAFTS, SEALS to decrease end play, remove an equal amount of
shims on both sides to retain the central position
A N D BEARINGS
of the thrust block. Too tight an adjustment will
AXLE SHAFT END PLAY
result in the overloading of the wheel bearings.
CHECKING END PLAY — Axle shaft end play AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL
is .003 to .008 inch with the low limit preferred.
Measure end play by clamping a dial gauge on Remove wheel, hub and drum assembly, using
the brake support, with the wheel, hub and drum wheel puller C-845. See Figure 2.
assembly removed. Place indicator button against
end of axle shaft. The total end play of both axle CAUTION
shafts will be recorded on the gauge when the
Do not use knock-out type pullers or strike
shaft is moved in and out. See Figure 1.
end of axle shaft to loosen hub. This may dam-
age the rear wheel bearings, thrust block and
opposite brake support plate.
ADJUSTING END PLAY—End play is controlled
by shims between the brake support plate and the
axle housing flange. Use special tool C-745 to pro-
tect oil seal when removing brake support plate. The axle bearing outer oil seal is mounted in
If necessary to remove more than .020 inch in shims the brake support. To protect seal against damage
UNIVERSAL WHfcü
AND
HUB PULLER
•J-
46x93
Figure 2 — Remove Wheel and Hub

Figure 1 — Measuring Axle Shaft End Play Tool Shown is No. C-845
MyMopar.com
on the axle shaft keyway, remove the rear axle snare the inner end of the axle shaft with a wire
drive shaft key and install special sleeve, C-745, loop and pull it out through the housing. Another
in the outer oil seal. See Figure 3. method is to slip a piece of tubing over the end of
the broken shaft and guide it out. If the axle shaft
When removing shims from the ends of the axle cannot be removed in either manner, it will be
housing, keep each set separate so that they can necessary to remove the broken piece with the
be assembled to the same ends of the axle housing carrier assembly. Remove any chips which may
to maintain central location of the thrust block. have fallen into the housing from the broken ends
Remove axle shaft and bearing with puller C-499. of the axle shaft.
See Figure 4.
Remove bearing from axle shaft with puller

C-293. See Figure 5.
INSTALLATION OF AXLE SHAFT
The rear shaft inner oil seal can be removed Press bearing on axle shaft. Be sure the bearing
with puller C-748. is started straight on the shaft. Install axle shaft
inner oil seal with tool C-839. Install axle shaft and
REMOVING BROKEN AXLE SHAFT—After re- bearing in axle housing. Install shims and brake
moving the inner oil seal, it may be possible to support. Use special tool C-745 to protect the outer
OIL SEAL STAKED

IN THREE PLACES
REAR AXLE SHAFT
REAR WHEEL 46x140

BRAKE AXLE
SHAFT OIL SEAL
PROTECTING Figure 4 — Removing Axle Drive Shaft
SEAL
SLEEVE and Bearing
AXLE
DJRIV£
SHAFT BEARING
TOOL
45x7!8
Figure 3 — Removing or Installing Brake Support

with Special Tool C-745 Figure 5 — Removing Bearing from Axle Shaft
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 21
oil seal. Measure axle shaft end play (end play 2. DIFFERENTIAL — Remove ring gear and
limits—.003 to .008 inch). (.003 inch preferred). check side gear clearance to determine if new
side gear thrust washers will be necessary. Clear-
ance should be from .004 to .012 inch. .004 inch
2. DIFFERENTIAL AND CARRIER preferred. See Figure 8. Drive out differential pin-
ASSEMBLY ion pin and remove shaft.
Cleanliness and inspection are vital factors to

remember when overhauling or repairing a rear INSPECTION OF DIFFERENTIAL
axle assembly. AND CARRIER PARTS
Always clean all parts after disassembly and Clean all parts and remove any chips and
keep them clean throughout assembly. Metal foreign material from the carrier housing.
chips, or particles of grit and dirt that may drop
into the lubricant, will cause excessive wear and J. CARRIER HOUSING AND DRIVE PINION
eventually result in failure of the axle. —Inspect all machined surfaces for nicks, burrs,
and scratches. If the drive pinion bearing cups
Always inspect all parts before assembly and were removed, inspect thrust shoulders in the car-
replace those that are worn or scored. Remove any rier housing to make sure there are no burrs on
burrs, nicks, scratches or rough spots on mating them. See Figure 10. The thrust shoulder must be
surfaces of replacement parts, caused by rough flat so bearing cups will seat properly. Check drive
handling.
DISASSEMBLY
Mount the carrier in a stand. Mark the differen-

tial bearing caps and supports (Figure 6). The caps
must not be interchanged because they are lined-
bored with the carrier housing when manufactured.
1. CARRIER ASSEMBLY — Remove the pinion

shaft flange and oil seal. Use Puller C-748 when
removing oil seal to avoid possible damage to the
carrier housing. Loosen adjusters to relieve bear-
ing preload before removing carrier bearing caps.
Lift the differential assembly out of the carrier
assembly. Remove the pinion bearing with puller
C-293. See Figure 7. Figure 7 — Removing Drive Pinion Bearing
PRICK
PUNCH
45x414 45x473
Figure 6 — Marking Differential Bearing
Cap Support Figure 8 — Checking Side Gear Clearance
MyMopar.com
11 Differential pinion shaft

12 Thrust block
13 Pinion flange nut
14 Flange washer
15 Drive pinion flange
16 Oil seal
17 Bearing cone and rollers
18 Bearing cup
19 Bearing adjusting shims
K·y 20 Bearing spacer

N·. 21 Differential carrier
1 Axle shaft 22 Pinion adjusting washer
2 Bearing adjuster 23 Drive pinion
3 Bearing cup 24 Bearing adjuster lock
4 Bearing cone and rollers 25 Bearing cap
5 Differential case 26 Ring gear
6 Pinion thrust washer 27 Pinion shaft lockpin
7 Differential pinion 28 Ring gear bolt
8 Thrust block spacer 29 Ring gear bolt lock
9 Side gear thrust washer 30 Ring gear bolt nut
10 Side gear
45x407 HOW IT WORKS
Straight Ahead Turning a Corner One Wheel Spinning
Figure 9 — Rear Axle Assembly

MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 23
pinion for chipped or scored teeth. Inspect bear-

ings for looseness. Inspect oil seal surface on the
pinion flange for roughness or wear.
CAUTION
Remove high spots by tapping punch lightly.
Metal around high spot may bulge if the high
spot is driven too hard.
2. DIFFERENTIAL CASE — Mount the case in 45x474

the carrier and remove excessive play from bear-
ings with adjusters. Mount a dial indicator on the Figure 10 — Removing High Spots on
carrier mounting surface and check ring gear Thrust Shoulder
mounting flange run-out. Run-out should not ex-
ceed .003 inch. See Figure 11. If there is more than
.003 inch run-out, the differential case should be GAUGE C-3339
replaced. Check bolt holes in flange for wear or
out-of-round. If bolt holes are out-of-round, the
ring gear will creep on the case. Check side gear
and pinion gear thrust surfaces in the case for
wear.
-A'
3. DIFFERENTIAL PARTS — Inspect ring gear,
side gears and differential pinion gears for
chipped, scored or worn teeth. Inspect differential
pinion shaft for wear and fit of shaft in differential
case. Differential shaft should not fit loosely, but
should be a light drive fit in the case. Inspect side
gear thrust washers for roughness and differential
bearings for roughness or wear.
Figure 11 — Checking Ring Gear Mounting

ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT Flange Run-Out
The correct ring gear and drive pinion adjust-
ment is obtained by pinion bearing preload, pinion
setting, difíerential bearing preload and backlash CROSS BORE COMPRESSION
between ring gear and pinion. See Figure 19. A TUBE 5LEEVf
ring gear and pinion set (Figure 20) is matched
and lapped in pairs and should be replaced as a
set. A great amount of skill is required to obtain
the proper adjustment of the ring gear and pinion
to assure long life and quiet operation.
Occasionally, more than one adjustment may

be necessary before a satisfactory adjustment can
be obtained. A special tool, C-758, is available
for adjusting the ring gear and pinion. See Figure WRENCH
12. With the use of this special tool, the pinion
bearing preload and pinion setting can be prede- GAUGE ¼ Ö € K
termined before final assembly, saving consider- 49x621
able time and labor. Figure 1 2 — Special Gauge Set C-758
MyMopar.com
TOOL-CROSSBORE TUBE
PINION ADJUSTMENTS
AXLE DRIVE PINION ADJUSTING WASHER OR SH¡MS
` AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARING SPACER J. PINION BEARING PRELOAD WITH SPECIAL
AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARING ADJUSTING
TOOL C-758 — With the bearing cups in the
SHIMS
TOOL—COMPRESSION SLEEVE
carrier housing, slide the rear bearing cone and
JOOU-COMPRESSION NUT spacer over the main body of the tool and insert
the main body in the carrier. Slide the adjusting
shims and front bearing cone over the main body.
See Figure 13.
Place the compression sleeve, centralizing
washer and compression nut over the main body
TOOL-CENTRALIZING WASHER and tighten to a minimum 175 foot pounds torque.
AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARINGS See Figure 14.
TOOL—MAIN BODY
TOOL—GAUGE BLOCK 49x610 Using a speed wrench, spin the main body to
seat the bearings. Use an inch-pound torque
wrench to read the torque required to turn the main
Figure 13 — Main Body of Tool C-758 with
body. See Figure 15. Desired turning torque is 20
Bearings and Shims Installed
to 30 inch-pounds.
Add or remove shims to obtain the specified
turning torque. To do this, first loosen the tool
assembly and then add or remove shims as
needed.
2. PINION ADJUSTMENT WITH SPECIAL TOOL

C-758 — Place the gauge block on top of the body
and tighten in place. See Figure 16.
Assemble the cross bore gauge bar to the car-
rier bearing supports. See Figure 17. Tighten the
cap screws to hold the bar in place.
The distance between the gauge block and the
cross bore gauge bar determines the thickness
of the washer to use between the drive pinion and
the rear drive pinion bearing cone. See Figure 18.
49x611
With the use of special tool C-758, the proper
Figure 14 — Tightening Compression Nut pinion setting and pinion bearing preload can be
predetermined. To complete the assembly and
adjustment of the differential in the carrier, follow
the instructions on page 25, starting with para-
graph 5.
NOTE
Whenever the adjustment of the differential

assembly is changed to obtain correct tooth
contact, reset the differential bearing preload
and backlash.
3. PINION BEARING PRELOAD WITHOUT

49x612 SPECIAL TOOL — To obtain proper bearing pre-
load, install pinion washer (Chamfered side-down),
Figure 15 — Checking Torque Required to the rear bearing cone spacer and shims on the
Rotate Pinion Bearings pinion shaft. Place shaft in housing and install
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 25
front bearing cone and pinion flange. Do not install

oil seal. Tighten pinion shaft flange nut to a mini- TOOL GAUGE BLOCK
mum of 250 to 280 foot pounds. Bearings should be
lightly oiled and rotated several times before
measuring the preload. Torque required to rotate
pinion shaft should be from 20 to 30 inch pounds,
indicating the correct amount of preload. If preload
is greater than 30 inch pounds, add shims. If less
than 20 inch pounds, remove shims.
4. PINION SETTING WITHOUT SPECIAL TOOL
—To obtain the correct pinion setting, insert the
proper spacing washer between the pinion and
the rear pinion bearing. An etched or white ink
marking on the end of the drive pinion indicates
the correct position of the drive pinion in the
housing. The pinion is marked with a zero (0) or
with a plus (+) or minus (—) sign, followed by
a number ranging from 1 to 4. Figure 16 — Installing Gauge Block on Main Body
If old and new pinions have the same marking,

use a spacing washer of the same thickness as that
49x614
of the old washer. But, if the pinion being replaced
is marked zero (0), and the new pinion is marked
plus two (+2), try a .002 inch thinner washer. If
the new pinion is marked minus two (—2), try a
.002 inch thicker washer. A thicker, or thinner
washer may be required when making final ad-
justment. Washers are available in the following
thicknesses: .084", .086", .088", .090", .092", .094",
.096", and .098".
5. ASSEMBLING DIFFERENTIAL — Install the
side gears and thrust washers. Place the thrust
block between the side gears so the axle shafts
will butt against the ground surfaces. Then roll in
the two pinion gears and line up the shaft holes
and insert the pinion thrust washers. Start the
pinion shaft through the case by tapping with a Figure 17 — Installing Cross Bore Gauge Bar
soft hammer.
Install the pinion spacers as the shaft is installed.
Check the side gear clearance before installing
the lock pin. If the side gear clearance is correct
(.004 to .012 inch), insert the lock pin through the
pinion shaft and peen the hole. Install the ring
gear, using 35 to 40 foot pounds on the mounting
bolt nuts. Use special tool DD-1005 to press on the
differential bearings. See Figure 21.
6. ADJUSTMENT OF DIFFERENTIAL IN CAR-
RIER — Install the ring gear and differential case
assembly and match the punch marks on the dif-
ferential bearing caps and the bearing supports.
Tighten the adjuster enough to remove play from
the bearings. Mount a dial indicator on the carrier
flange and check the run-out on the rear face of 49x615
the ring gear. See Figure 11. If run-out exceeds
.003 inch, check for dirt, or burrs, which may pre- Figure 18 — Determining Spacer Washer
vent the ring gear from seating on the case. Thickness
MyMopar.com
PINION BEARING PRELOAD PINION ADJUSTMENT

Obtained by placing shims be- Obtained b y placing washer
tween front bearing and bear- between rear bearing a n d p i n -
ing spacer. With oil seal out, ion. Washers supplied in f o l -
tighten pinion flange nut to lowing thicknesses: .084", .086",
175 foot-pounds torque. Should .088 , .090 , .092 , .094 , .096',
require 15 to 25 inch-pounds and .098". Install washer
torque to rotate pinion. with chamfered edge t o w a r d
pinion.
RING GEAR AND PINION BACKLASH AND DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD

Obtained by tightening differential bearing adjusters.
Check ring gear f o r runout, a n d determine high point.
Starting w i t h .001" backlash, a n d adjuster on back face
side of ring gear snug against bearing, tighten adjuster on
tooth side of ring gear t o obtain .006" t o .008" backlash.
Tighten bearing cap screws t o 85 t o 90 foot-pounds torque.
CORRECT TOOTH CONTACT

Equally distributed over
8 0 % of tooth length.
45x573
Figure 19 — Rear Axle Adjustments
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 27
Screw out the bearing adjuster at the rear face

of the ring gear and screw in the opposite adjuster
until there is plenty of backlash. See Figure 22.
Tighten the lower cap screws to about 85 to 90

foot pounds, leaving the two top cap screws fairly
loose. This holds the bearing cups in line and
still allows them to be moved for adjustment.
Screw out the adjuster on the tooth side of the ring
gear.
This adjuster must not touch the bearing cup

until the opposite side has been completely set
up. Screw in the adjuster at the rear face side until
there is very little backlash. RING GEAR BACK FAC 45x424
Turn the ring gear a few times by hand to line

up the bearing rollers. Then, find the point of least Figure 22 — Obtaining Initial Backlash
backlash on the ring gear by checking the gear
at 90 degree intervals with a dial indicator. See
Figure 23. When the point of least backlash is
found, screw in the adjuster at the rear face side
until .001 inch backlash is obtained. See Figure 24.
RING GEAR AND PINION

GEAR MUST BE MATCHED
45x4i8 i i iimiimwmwn»iP'11 in 49x622
Figure 23 — Finding Point of Least Backlash

Figure 20 — Matched Ring Gear and Pinion Set
[I
J i m WÆ mm
Figure 21 —Installing Differential Bearings Figure 24 — Obtaining Backlash without Preload
MyMopar.com
THINNER
WASHER
CORRECT TOOTH
CONTACT
HEAVY FACE HEAVY FLANK "-¦¡^·>
Install thicker washer be- Install thinner washer be-

hind pinion. If necessary hind pinion, if necessary
to readjust backlash, move to readjust backlash, move
ring gear away from pinion ring gear toward pinion.
HEAVY TOE HEAVY HEEL
Move ring gear away from Move ring gear toward pin-
pinion. If necessary to re- ion. If necessary to readjust
adjust backlash, install backlash, install thinner
45x41 thicker washer washer behind pinion.
Figure 25 — Ring Gear Tooth Contact Patterns
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 29
Proper backlash between ring gear and pinion HEAVY TOE CONTACT
and differential bearing preload can be obtained
If the tooth marking is too heavy on the toe of
at the same time. Turn in the adjuster on the tooth
the tooth (Figure 25), the tooth edges may chip and
side of the ring gear until the dial indicator shows
.006 inch backlash. Lock the adjuster in place and excessive wear will result.
tighten both top cap screws to 85 to 90 foot pounds.
Correct by moving the ring gear away from the
Re-check backlash after bearing caps are tight-
ened. See Figure 26. pinion. However, this adjustment may increase the
CHECKING TOOTH CONTACT
First apply red lead to the ring gear teeth. See

Figure 27. Then, apply load against the back face
of the ring gear with a round bar, as the drive
pinion is being rotated. This action will leave a
bare area on the contact surface—indicating lo-
cation of the tooth contact.
The contact pattern should be well-centered on

the drive and coast sides—about 1/16 inch from
the edges of the teeth. Tooth marks made by hand
operation of the ring gear are apt to be small. But, 49x628
under actual operation load, the contact area will
spread out—the higher the load, the greater the
contact area. Figure 2 6 — Obtaining Specified Backlash
and Preload
If tooth contact is incorrect, it will be necessary
46x255
to move the drive pinion forward or backward by
installing a thicker or thinner spacing washer, or
to move the ring gear into or away from the pinion.
If the pinion setting is changed, it may be neces-
sary to reset backlash. If the ring gear is moved, it
may be necessary to reset the pinion.
HEAVY FACE CONTACT
If the tooth marking is across the length of the

tooth face and narrow and near the top (Figure 25),
the teeth will roll over or score. This will result in
excessive wear and noise.
Correct this condition by moving the pinion in Figure 27 — Applying Red Lead to Gear Teeth
toward the center of the ring gear. Install a thicker
washer behind the pinion. Readjust backlash.
CENTER OF GEAR
BACKLASH /
HEAVY FLANK CONTACT
/ TOE—**
/ PITCH
If the tooth marking is across the length of the /^*¯¯¯ LINE
tooth, but narrow and low on the flank (Figure 25), HEEL- * • ¯>^
the teeth will score—resulting in excessive wear CLEARANCE `¯^"FACE

/
and noise.
^ ^ FLANK
Correct by moving the pinion away from the 45x416
center of the ring gear. Use a thinner washer be-
hind the pinion. Readjust backlash. Figure 2 8 — G e a r Tooth N o m e n c l a t u r e
MyMopar.com
backlash more than .010. If such is the case, insert

a thicker washer behind the pinion. This will move
the pinion in toward the ring gear and bring the
backlash within specifications.
NOTE
If the pinion setting is changed for any rea-

son, it will be necessary to readjust the pinion
bearing preload, differential bearing preload
and backlash. If the ring gear position is
changed for any reason, it will be necessary to
recheck the backlash.
45x426
HEAVY HEEL CONTACT
Figure 29 — Removing Drive Pinion Flange
If the tooth marking is too heavy on the heel of Tool shown is No. C-452
the tooth (Figure 25), the tooth edges may chip and
excessive wear will result.
DRIVE PINION BEARING OIL SEAL
Correct by moving the ring gear in toward the REMOVER.
pinion. However, this adjustment may decrease O i l SEAL
the backlash. If this occurs, insert a thinner washer
behind the pinion. The pinion will be moved away
from the ring gear and the backlash will be brought
within specification.
3. DRIVE PINION BEARING OIL SEAL

REMOVAL — Be sure the area to be worked on
is clean before the operation is started. Disconnect REAR AXLE
the rear universal joint and remove the drive DIFFERENTIAL AND
pinion flange unit and washer. Remove the flange CARRIER ASSEMBLY 46x163
with special tool C-452. See Figure 29. Remove the
drive pinion bearing oil seal with puller C-748. Figure 30 — Removing Drive Pinion Bearing
See Figure 30. Oil Seal
INSTALLATION — Install new oil seal (Figure

31) with drift C-359. Seal must have tight contact
with seat after installation. When installing the oil
seal, make certain the leather is soft and pliable
by soaking seal in oil. Inspect the flange for rough-
ness or wear. Use tool C-452 when installing the
flange nut and tighten to 250 to 280 foot pounds
torque.
NOTE
A spring washer ¾" thick is used to secure

the companion flange nut. It must be installed
with the convex side towards the nut and the
nut torqued to 250 to 280 foot pounds. 45x425
Figure 31 —Installing Drive Pinion Oil Seal

MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE 31
4. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES standing still. Noise should be apparent as long as

the engine speed is steady. But, it will fade when
LEAKAGE the engine speed is increased or decreased. Loose
If the vent is plugged, leakage of rear axle lubri- tail pipe brackets or a bent tail pipe will cause
cant may result. When there is an excessive rattling noise.
amount of lubricant in the differential, a high pres-
sure will build up and force the lubricant out 4. CLUTCH — Noise resulting from a faulty
through the seals and gasket. clutch disc unit may be heard when the car is
accelerating at speeds of 25 to 30 miles an hour,
or while coasting down from 45 to 38 miles an hour.
CAUTION
5. PROPELLER SHAFT — An unbalanced shaft
When applying undercoating, be sure the can cause excessive vibration and noise at speeds
vent for the rear axle housing is covered. Re- above 50 miles an hour.
move vent covering after undercoating.
6. DIFFERENTIAL AND CARRIER ASSEMBLY—
The main difference between an axle bearing noise
1. AXLE SHAFT OIL SEALS — Grease may and a gear noise is in the duration and the sound.
leak out around the brake support plate. Grabbing Bearing noise is continuous and may change
brakes may also indicate leakage at oil seal. slightly in volume only as the speed changes.
Slightly worn or damaged bearings cause a
2. DRIVE PINION BEARING OIL SEAL — In- "sizzling" noise. Bearings that are badly worn, or
spect the underside of the rear floor pan for pres- broken, will make a rough grating sound.
ence of lubricant.
A continuous whine may be produced by a
3. CARRIER GASKET — Leakage at carrier
pinion and ring gear which are set up too tightly—
indicates a loose or damaged gasket.
not enough backlash. Gear noise comes in when
4. REAR AXLE HO USING—Inspect the seams the car is being driven under load, on the coast, or
along welds for leakage and carrier housing for on both the pull and coast. But, gear noise changes
sand holes. in volume and in pitch as the car speed changes.
There can also be a combination bearing and gear
NOISES noise.
Rear axle noises are often confused with sounds (a) Steady Noise on Pull—Loss of lubricant, the
that originate in other parts of the car, such as use of improper lubricant or improper mesh of
wheel bearings, loose wheel bolts, tires, clutch, gear teeth will cause a steady hum.
transmission, and universal joints. Always make (b) Steady Noise on Coast—Gear teeth that are
a careful inspection of these units before con- badly scored due to excessive end play in the
demning the rear axle. pinion bearings, or because of improper adjust-
J. TIRES—Tire noise will vary, depending upon ment of bearings, will cause a steady hum.
the type of road surface and the condition of the (c) Bearing Noise on Pull and Coast—When the
tire tread. Road testing on different types of pave- pinion or differential bearings are scored, chipped,
ment will usually indicate whether or not the tires cracked, or badly worn, a noise will be heard when
are noisy. Road test the car on smooth pavement
accelerating, or coasting down to lower speeds.
at a speed where the noise is most audible. Then,
disengage the clutch and apply the brakes. If the (d) Ring Gear and Pinion—A sharp, metallic
noise increases, it can be assumed that the tires sound, heard when shifting from reverse into a
are causing the noise. forward speed, may indicate that the ring gear is
creeping on the case, or that its mounting bolts
2. WHEEL BEARINGS — To determine if the are loose. A thumping sound, heard when the car
wheel bearings are worn or damaged, road test is turning a corner, may be due to a broken tooth,
the car and apply the brakes. This action will take or a large nick in a differential side gear.
some of the load off the wheel bearings. Noise, if
present, will diminish, indicating that the bearings
7. AXLE SHAFTS—Excessive end play in the
may be at fault.
rear axle shafts will cause a thump or chuckling
3. EXHAUST—Test for exhaust system noise by noise when driving on a rough road, or especially,
slowing and increasing engine speed with the car when turning a corner.
MyMopar.com
BRAKE
MODEL P-26-P-28 P-27—P-29
SERVICE BRAKES
Type Hydraulic internal expanding
Drum Diameter Front 10 in. 11 in. /*llin.Sub-\
Rear 10 in. 10 in.* \urban only/
Clearance Between Lining and Drum—
Heel and Toe (all shoes) .006 in.
Type Molded asbestos (Bonded)
Lining
Width 2 in.
Thickness %in.
Special Replacement Thickness .030 in. oversize
Brake Shoe Return Spring Tension—Front 10 in.—40 to 50 lbs. 11 in.—40 to 50 lbs.
@5¦½in. @7½in.
Brake Shoe Return Spring Tension—Rear 10 in.—50 to 60 lbs. 11 in.—40 to 50 lbs.
@ 5 % in. @7¼in.
Diameter of Wheel Cylinder Bore l½in.
Diameter of Master Cylinder Bore l¾Sn.
Desirable Piston Cylinder Clearance (All Bores) .003 to .0065 in.
Brake Pedal Return Spring Tension—Minimum 27 to 30 lbs. @ 6*4 in.
Brake Pedal Free Play at Pedal Vs to ¼ in.
¼> to ¼—Bellows—Power Brake
HAND BRAKE
Type Internal Expanding—PowerFlite
External Contracting—3-Speed Transmission
Location Propeller shaft at rear of transmission
Drum Diameter External—6 in.—Internal—7 in.
Lining Type Woven asbestos
Width 2 in.
Thickness ½in.
Clearance Internal—.010 in.
External—.015 to .020 in.
Brake Shoe Anchor Bolt Nuts 60-80 ft. lbs.
Rear Brake Support to Axle Housing Flange Bolts and Nuts 35 ft. lbs.
Brake Support to Wheel Cylinder Cap Screws—Rear 15 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
33
SECTION III
BRAKES
Page
1. Minor Brake Adjustment 33
2. Major Brake Adjustment 35
3. Brake Lining 37
4. Brake Shoes 38
5. Servicing the Hydraulic Brake System 40
6. Bleeding Hydraulic Brake System 40
7. Master Cylinder. 41
8. Wheel Cylinders 43
9. Brake Tubing 43
10. Hand Brake 43
11. Power Brakes 45
1. MINOR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

BRAKE SHOE CAMS
A minor brake adjustment will increase pedal
reserve and compensate for normal lining wear.
Brake pedal free play should be .015 to .030
inches measuring between the brake pedal and BRAKE PEDAL
/RETURN SPRING
pedal stop which will result in approximately ¼ PEDAL RETURN
inch free play at the pedal pad. See Figure 1. RUBBER STOP
If necessary, this adjustment can be made by

loosening the lock nut and turning the hex
shoulder on the master cylinder push rod which ..015 TO . 0 3 0 INCH
will change the length of the push rod in either
direction.
MASTER CYLINDER
PUSH ROD
NOTE
Free play is important to prevent brakes ACCELERATOR PEDAL
from locking up. Too much free play permits 55P1007

excessive pedal travel before brakes are
applied. Figure 1 — Brake Pedal Free Play
Approximately l¾ inch initial pedal travel be-

adjusting the brake shoe cams. Turn the adjusting
fore the shoes contact the drums is normal. No
cams (pull down on wrench handle) until the shoe
attempt should be made to reduce the initial pedal
is locked against the drum. See Figure 4. Back off
travel.
the adjusting cam just enough to remove any
Pedal travel beyond the initial amount required drag. Repeat this operation on each shoe at all
can be adjusted to compensate for lining wear by four wheels.
MyMopar.com
TURN ANCHOR BOLT IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE
CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE DIRECTION
TO INCREASE CLEARANCE AT
HEEL OF REAR SHOE
HEEL OF REAR
TURN CAM IN DIRECTION TOE OF FRONT SHOE

OF ARROW TO DECREASE
CLEARANCE— OPPOSITE
DIRECTION TO INCREASE BRAKE GAUGE
CLEARANCE AT TOE
OF REAR SHOE
TURN ANCHOR BOLT IN TURN CAM IN DIRECTION

DIRECTION OF ARROW OF ARROW TO DECREASE
TO DECREASE CLEARANCE CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE
— OPPOSITE DIRECTION DIRECTION TO INCREASE
TO INCREASE CLEARANCE CLEARANCE AT TOE
AT HEEL OF FRONT SHOE OF FRONT SHOE
TOE OF REAR SHOE

HEEL OF FRONT SHOE
45x702
Figure 2 — Adjusting Brake Shoes—Front Wheel
TOE OF REAR SHOE TURN CAM IN DIRECTION

TURN CAM IN DIRECTION OF ARROW TO DECREASE
OF ARROW TO DECREASE TOE OF FRONT SHOE CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE
CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO INCREASE
DIRECTION TO INCREASE CLEARANCE AT TOE
CLEARANCE AT TOF OF FRONT SHOE
OF REAR SHOE
BRAKE GAUGE
TURN ANCHOR BOLTS

IN DIRECTION OF
ARROWS TO DECREASE
CLEARANCE AT THE
BRAKE SHOE HEELS
OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO
INCREASE CLEARANCE
HEEL OF REAR SHOE
HEEL OF FRONT SHOE

45x703
Figure 3 — Adjusting Brake Shoes—Rear Wheel
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 35
2. MAJOR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT TURN IN DIRECTION OF

ARROW TO DECREASE
Whenever brake shoes are relined or replaced, CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE
the brake shoe cam and anchor adjustment must DIRECTION TO INCREASE
CLEARANCE
be checked to determine if the shoes are properly
centered. To check the adjustment of the cams and
anchors, use brake shoe aligning and adjusting
gauge, MT-19.
Before starting the adjustment, make sure the
arrows on the anchor bolts point away from the
heels of the shoes they control. See Figures 2 and 3. BRAKE SHOE
* ADJUSTING CAM
Set special tool, MT-19 to indicate the inside
diameter of the drum. See Figure 5. Transfer the 55P1093
drum diameter setting to the shoe gauge. Set the
gauge so that the edge of the finger marked
Figure 4 — Turning Brake Adjusting Cam
"drum" just contacts the point of the brake drum
gauge. See Figure 6.
Install the adaptor bushing on the steering
knuckle for front wheels, or on the rear axle shaft
for rear wheels. Turn the finger of the brake shoe
gauge from "drum" to "heel," and slide the gauge
over the adaptor. The "heel" setting allows the
correct clearance of .006 inch for both the heel and
toe of the shoe.
Swing the brake shoe gauge around until the
finger is over the "toe" of the brake shoe. Turn
the adjusting cam until the lining contacts the
gauge finger. See Figures 2 and 3.
Swing the brake shoe gauge around until the
finger is over the "heel" of the brake shoe. Turn Figure 5 — Setting Gauge to Brake
the anchor bolt until the lining contacts the gauge. Drum Diameter
See Figures 2 and 3.
IMPORTANT
Both heel and foe clearances are checked
with the "heel" edge of the brake shoe gauge.
The heel clearance must be rechecked after
setting the toe clearance, to see if it has
changed during toe adjustment. Several at-
tempts may be needed to obtain the proper
clearance at the heel and toe ends of the
shoe.
Do not use the same gauge setting for more

than one wheel. The gauge must be reset
according to the inside drum diameter of each
wheel. Figure 6 — Setting Brake Shoe Gauge to
Drum Size
MyMopar.com
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS
REAR BRAKE FRONT BRAKE
ADJUSTING CAM ADJUSTING CAM ADJUSTING CAM ANCHOR

FOR REAR SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE FOR REAR SHOE BOLT NUT
FOR REAR SHOE
ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR

BOLT NUT T NUT BOLT ADJUSTING CAM
FOR REAR SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE
MINOR ADJUSTMENT
With wrench on cam, turn handle of wrench down to decrease clearance

between shoe and drum. Turn wrench handle up to increase clearance.
Turn cam until wheel is locked, then back off until wheel is free.
REAR BRAKE FRONT BRAKE

TOE END HEEL END ANCHOR BOLT
.006 INCH .006 INCH . FOR REAR SHOE
CLEARANCE CLEARANCE
REAR,
SHOE
v
A FRONT
REAR
SHOE^ ~J.
Á
¾ x - " ^ SHOE
If TOE END f
f FRONT
.006 I N C H ^ J
ƒ I1
SHOE
HEEL END CLEARANCE f
HEEL END | | ^ .006 INCH
.006 INCH m CLEARANCE
CLEARANCE
HEEL END
ANCHOR BOLT ANCHOR BOLT ANCHOR BOLT . .006 INCH
FOR REAR SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE FOR FRONT SHOE CLEARANCE
MAJOR ADJUSTMENT
Point of arrow indicates high side of cam on anchor bolt. Turn point of
arrow toward the drum to decrease clearance. Turn point of arrow away
from drum to increase clearance. Assemble anchors with arrows pointing
away from heel of shoe. 45x417
Figure 7 — Brake Shoe Adjustments
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 37
3. BRAKE LINING
CYCLEBOND LINING
The cyclebond process requires the use of spe-
cial equipment. Exchange shoes equipped with
Cyclebond Lining are available.
CAUTION
Always use lining of the same material
when relining either front or rear brakes.
When relining the front brakes reline both
wheels.
REMOVAL OF WORN LINING Figure 8 — Sanding Brake Shoe
BONDED TYPE—Clamp the brake shoe in a vise.

Start at one end of the shoe and insert a chisel
under the center of the lining and chip off the
lining, exercising care to prevent gouging the
shoe. Never use heat to remove the old lining. This
may result in distortion of the shoe.
PREPARING BRAKE SHOES FOR BONDING

Clean all traces of dirt and grease from the
shoes. If a cleaning solution is used, flush the
shoes with warm water and dry with air. Carefully
inspect the shoes for alignment and straighten if
necessary. Cracked or otherwise damaged brake
shoes should be discarded.
Sand the face of the shoe until all traces of old
lining, rust, scale, oxidation, and plating are re-
moved, leaving a bright clean surface. This ap-
plies to all shoes, new or used. See Figure 8. Figure 9 — Shoe and Lining on Bonder
CAUTION These are correct temperature, clamping pressure,

condition of the brake shoes and curing time. It is
Only pre-cemented Cyclebond Brake Lining
vitally important that the brake shoes and lining
is recommended for Plymouth cars. Lining
be clean. Care must be exercised when handling
which has been in stock for a considerable
the pre-cemented lining and sanded shoes, as
length of time should be reactivated by apply-
grease or oil smears will destroy the bond.
ing Cyclebond Reactivating Cement over the
originally cemented surface. Let the cement The anvil type bonder shown in Figure 9 is a
dry for at least one hour before bonding to typical device used in the bonding process. Ther-
shoe. mostatically controlled heat (500 to 525 degrees)
is supplied by heating elements for each anvil.
The brake shoe and pre-cemented lining assembly
is placed on the anvil with the toe of the shoe
BONDING LINING TO SHOE
against the locating rivets. The assembly is
To obtain a good bond between the lining and clamped in position with a flexible steel band. Con-
the shoe, certain precautions must be observed. stant pressure is obtained through the use of a
MyMopar.com
ing the lining on an arc that is smaller than the

\ brake drum diameter results in more clearance at
the ends than at the center of the shoe. This will
prevent heavy toe or heel contact and improve
lining-to-drum contact. It is important to accu-
rately set the grinder to obtain the correct shape
of the lining. Make certain that all working parts
of the grinder are in good working condition. Any
looseness due to wear of grinder parts may result
in a poor grinding job. This in turn would make it
difficult to properly adjust the brake shoes.
4. BRAKE SHOES
When installing brake shoes, exercise extreme
care to prevent brake fluid, oil or grease from con-
tacting the lining. If the piston should accidentally
Figure 10 — Typical Bonding Oven be forced out of the wheel cylinder, be sure to
bleed the brake lines.
When installing the anchor bolts make certain
that they are placed so that the arrows point away
from the heel of the shoe they control. If the arrow
on the anchor bolt points toward the heel of the
shoe it controls, and it should loosen in service,
the anchor bolt may turn and lock the brake shoe
against the drum.
Before installing the brake shoe return springs,
test the springs for tension by comparing them
with a new one. Use caution when testing the
spring to prevent over-stretching. Bent, distorted,
or otherwise damaged springs should be dis-
carded. When installing the brake shoe return
spring use special pliers (C-864).
Figure 11 — A Typical Brake Lining Grinder

IMPORTANT
(Tool Shown — MT 294)
When relining brakes, inspect the brake
drums for scoring and deep cuts. If it is neces-
sary to resurface the brake drums, do not
heavy coil spring attached to the steel band at the
remove more than .060 inch on the diameter.
rear of the bonding machine. The spring tension
Install a new drum if the old drum requires a
is adjustable and should be checked at intervals
cut of more than .030 inch to renew the surface.
since the steel band will stretch with continued
Special oversize lining should be used when
service. Curing time is approximately 6 minutes.
drum diameters are turned over .030 inch
Other types of bonding equipment are available oversize.
using special clamps and an oven, as illustrated
in Figure 10. It is important that the equipment
manufacturer's instructions be carefully observed ALIGNMENT OF BRAKE SHOES
for curing time, temperature and clamping pres- Improper cam pin height will result in heavy
sure, depending on the type equipment used. edge contact and may cause squeaks, vibration
and excessive wear. On front brakes, the cam pin
GRINDING BRAKE LINING
should be the same height as the flat surface at
Set the grinder to make a cut of a few thou- the rear of the wheel cylinder. On rear brakes,
sandths of an inch under the drum diameter. Grind- the pin height should be the same as that of the
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 39
flat spacer under the anchor bolt. Measure cam

pin height with special tool MT-19. Set the end of
the gauge finger against the flat surface of the
wheel cylinder on the front brakes, (Figure 12) or
the spacer under the anchor bolt on rear brakes.
Swing the gauge and pass the end of the finger
over the cam pin. If the pin is too long, heavy edge
contact on the inner edge of the lining will occur.
See Figure 13. File enough off the end of the cam
pin to give proper height. Avoid taking off too
much metal.
If the cam pin is too short, it will result in edge CAM PIN
contact on the outer edge of the lining. See Figure
14. Bend the guide spring outward to relieve pres-
sure on the shoe. The tension should not be less 49x653
than 15 pounds when measured with a pull scale.
Figure 13 — Contact on Inner Edge of Lining
STRAIGHTENING BRAKE SHOES Due to Long Cam Pin
A misaligned shoe can never be corrected by

grinding the lining to make it square with the
drum. The shoe itself must be straightened or
discarded.
To inspect the brake shoe for distortion, support
the anchor bolt end of the web on a surface plate,
holding the web flat. To check the shoe for being
bent, swing the toe end up to the plate. See Figure
15. If bent, the shoe will either strike the plate, or
ride above it.
When assembling the shoe to the support plate,
be sure the brake shoe fits the anchor pin snugly,
CAM PIN
otherwise, brakes may be noisy. If the anchor hole
is worn enough to give the shoe noticeable end
play, replace the shoe. Apply a small amount of
heat resistant lubricant on the cams, anchors, 49x654
guide springs and push rods.
Figure 14 — Contact on Outer Edge of Lining
Due to Short Cam Pin
WHEEL CYLINDER
ANCHOR LUG
ADAPTER BUSHING
BRAKE SHOF
BRAKE SHOE
ADJUSTING GAUGE
ADJUSTING PIN
WING TYPE SCREW
45 x 444
Figure 12 — Measuring Cam Pin Height Figure 15 — Checking Shoe for Twist
MyMopar.com
5. SERVICING THE HYDRAULIC 6. BLEEDING HYDRAULIC

BRAKE SYSTEM BRAKE SYSTEM
Servicing the hydraulic system is chiefly a mat- Remove all dirt from the master cylinder reser-
ter of locating dirt and leaks, plus correcting the voir filler plug and the area around it so that dirt,
damage either the dirt or leak condition has sand, or grit, will not drop into the reservoir.
caused. It is highly important to make sure the
brake system is clean and tightly sealed when a BLEEDING PROCEDURE
brake job is completed and that only heavy duty (See Figures 16 and 17)
brake fluid is used.
1. Back the brake shoe adjusting cams all the
BRAKE FLUID — Heavy duty type brake fluid way off. This will allow the pistons in the wheel
retains the correct consistency throughout the cylinders to move in, facilitating the escape of air.
widest range of temperature variation, will not
2. Bleed the right rear wheel cylinder first, then
affect rubber cups, and helps protect the metal
the cylinder at the left rear wheel, the right front
parts of the brake system from corrosion. The
wheel and finally the left front wheel.
proper type fluid used in the Plymouth Safeguard
Hydraulic brake system assures long trouble free 3. Wipe the bleeder valve clean, and attach the
operation. bleeder hose, Tool C-650, to the valve. Place the
other end of the hose in a jar partially full of brake
Never use brake fluid from a container that has fluid.
been used for any other liquid. Mineral oil, alco-
hol, anti-freeze, or cleaning solvents, even in very
small quantities, will contaminate brake fluid.
Contaminated brake fluid will cause piston cups
and the valve in the master cylinder to swell or
deteriorate.
BRAKE FLUID TEST
The following test can be made to determine

whether or not the brake fluid is contaminated
by mineral oil:
Place a small amount of brake fluid in a

clear glass bottle. If fluid separates into two
distinct layers, mineral oil is present. If such
is the case, drain system, flush, replace all rub-
ber parts such as cups, hose etc., refill with Figure 16 — Bleed Front Wheel Cylinders
heavy duty Brake Fluid and bleed brakes.
AIR FREE SYSTEM—Make sure there is no air

in the system. Proper bleeding will remove air.
The system must be free from leaks and proper
fluid level must be maintained to insure no air
enters the system during operation of the brakes.
Air in the fluid is a major cause of unsatisfactory
brake action.
CLEANLINESS—Be sure all parts of the brake
system are free from dirt. Dirt or foreign material
can easily score the rubber cups or get under the
lips of the cups. If these conditions occur, the cups
can no longer form a tight seal against the cylin- 55P1051
der walls and fluid can leak, causing loss of
pressure and loss of fluid. Figure 1 7 — Bleed Rear Wheel Cylinders
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 41
4. Open the bleeder valve ½ to ¾ of a turn.

Pump the fluid by pushing the brake pedal down
in half strokes. Always let the pedal return slowly
so that air will not be drawn into the system. Open
and close the valve occasionally while bleeding,
rather than leaving the valve open continuously.
This will help to expel the air in the system. Con-
tinue this procedure until the fluid runs out of the
bleeder hose in a solid stream free of air bubbles.
5. At the front wheels, bleed the lower cylinder
first in order to force all the air out of the connect-
ing line. See Figure 16.
CAUTION
Use extreme care to prevent emptying the

reservoir in the master cylinder and allowing
air to be introduced into the system.
45X106
Discard old brake fluid that is bled from the
system. Fluid drained during the bleeding Figure 18 — Air-Less Bleeder Tank
Tool No. C¯837
operation may contain dirt or other contami-
nation.
7. MASTER CYLINDER
The brake master cylinder is mounted to the
USING BLEEDER TANKS
engine side of the dash panel and must be re-
ÄIR-LESS BLEEDER TANK—This unit, C-837, ap- moved for reconditioning. The master cylinder is
plies pressure to the fluid with a spring-loaded mounted to four studs located in the panel and is
piston and is designed to prevent possibility of secured by four nuts and lockwasher. See Figure
air mixing with the brake fluid. See Figure 18. It 1 on Page 33.
provides ample pressure for efficient bleeding of
the brake system. It is connected to the master RECONDITIONING
cylinder in the same manner as other pressure Clean the outside of the master cylinder thor-
bleeder tanks. oughly, remove the reservoir filler plug and end
Correct operating pressure is governed by the plug. Then, force out all brake fluid. The piston,
pressure of the spring when the handle is cocked. cups, return spring, and valve assembly, can be
A pressure gauge on top of the tank measures the removed for inspection after removing the boot,
actual fluid pressure being applied to the brake collar, and piston stop.
system. Do not allow fluid pressure to drop to zero Master cylinder walls that are lightly scratched
during bleeding operations. or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned
COMPRESSED AIR BLEEDER TANK — When up with crocus cloth using a circular motion. Cylin-
bleeding the brake system with the compressed der walls that are deeply scratched, or scored,
type bleeder tank, first fill the tank half full with may be honed if the diameter of the cylinder bore
brake fluid and then bring the pressure up to 15 is not increased more than .004 inch. If a master
pounds. If more pressure is used, the brake fluid cylinder bore does not clean up within this limit,
will absorb air. Always maintain a safe fluid level the cylinder should be discarded and a new one
installed.
in the bleeder tank and do not allow the air pres-
sure to drop to zero during bleeding operation. When reconditioning a master cylinder, all
When the brake bleeder tank is not in use, it is parts contained in the repair kit should be used.
advisable to relieve the air pressure to help pre- Two kits are available, one which includes a mas-
vent condensation of moisure from the air. ter cylinder piston, and one without the piston.
MyMopar.com
U BOLT
COVER
CUP
WASHER NUT
END
PISTON
CUP
Master Cylinder COLLAR SCREW
BLEEDER SCREW
WHEEL CYLINDER
PISTON CUP
BRAKE SHOE
PUSH ROD
RETURN SPRING
PISTON CUP EXPANDER'

PISTON
Front Wheel Cylinder
CYLINDER ¯BOOT
BRAKE SHOE PUSH ROD
PISTON CUP EXPANDER
\
BLEEDER SCREW
RETURN SPRING
CYLINDER BOOT
Rear Wheel
WHEEL CYLINDER
Cylinder
PISTON CUP 56P1I5
Figure 19 — Brake Cylinders Disassembled
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 43
7. MASTER CYLINDER—Confd. conditioned, the piston cups should be replaced.

Dip the piston, cups and valve assembly in Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or
brake fluid before installing them in the cylinder. show signs of corrosion can usually be cleaned up
This will permit the parts to slide together without with crocus cloth. Cylinder walls that have deep
forcing and prevent possible damage. Install the scratches, or are scored, may be honed if the diam-
brass washer between the primary cup and the eter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than
piston. .004 inch. When a cylinder bore does not clean up
within .004 inch, install a new wheel cylinder.
Be extremely careful when cleaning cylinder
IMPORTANT walls. Remove all dust or grit by flushing cylinder
Exercise extreme care in cleaning the master with alcohol. Wipe dry with lint-free cloth and
cylinder. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the clean again with alcohol. Dry cylinder with air
cylinder with alcohol, wipe dry with a lint-free pressure and then flush with clean brake fluid.
cloth, and clean a second time with alcohol. Before assembling pistons and cups in the wheel
Dry master cylinder with air pressure. Then,
cylinder, dip them in brake fluid. This will permit
flush with clean brake fluid. Be sure the relief
the parts to slide together and lessen the possi-
port in the master cylinder is open.
bility of damage.
If the boots are faulty, or do not fit tightly on the
brake shoe pin or the wheel cylinder casting, in-
PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT stall new boots.
Be sure the piston returns far enough to uncover
the relief port. This is controlled by the adjustment
of the push rod. Unless the final inspection of pedal IMPORTANT
free play indicates adjustment is needed, do not
Wheel cylinder piston cups and master cylin-
disturb the original factory setting of the push rod.
der piston secondary cups are not interchange-
The correct adjustment of the push rod results able. The master cylinder secondary cup is
in .015 to .030 inch clearance between the pedal made of soft rubber and has a shoulder. See
and pedal stop. Figure 20. The wheel cylinder cup is not as soft
by comparison and has no shoulder.
This clearance permits movement of the brake
pedal before the push rod touches the master
cylinder piston. See Figure 1 on Page 33.
9. BRAKE TUBING
8. WHEEL CYLINDERS Whenever it becomes necessary to reflare steel
Replace wheel cylinders that are badly scored tubing, double flaring provides greater rigidity
or corroded. If the wheel cylinders are being re- and more satisfactory seating. Double flaring is
recommended for all brake lines because of the
WH1EL added protection it affords. See Figure 21. The
CYLINDER MASTER same tool can be also used for double flaring oil,
CUP CYLINDER fuel and vacuum lines. Single flaring will, in many
SECONDARY CUP cases, fracture or split the ends of the tubing.
Before flaring a tube, it is extremely important to
square off the ends with a tube cutter and to
remove any sharp edges.
10. HAND BRAKE

ADJUSTMENT
(External Type)
Adjust the anchor screw (Figure 22) so the clear-

ance between the drum and the lining at the
Figure 20 — Identification of Brake Cylinder anchor bracket is .015 inch. Lock anchor screw
Piston Cups securely. Turn guide bolt adjusting nut (1) until
MyMopar.com
REPLACING HAND BRAKE LINING

(External Type)
Be sure lining fits snugly to the band, then rivet

the lining securely. Cut out that portion of the
lining which is opposite to the anchor bracket.
Excessive squeal or chatter may be eliminated by
correct adjustment, or by bending the toe end of
the band slightly away from the drum.
ADJUSTMENT
45x477
(Internal Type)
Figure 21 — Double Flaring Steel Tubing BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT—Turn brake shoe
adjusting nut to decrease shoe-to-drum clearance
until a slight drag is felt on the brake drum. Back
off adjusting nut at least one full notch to give
GUIDE BOLT approximately .010" clearance. Prongs on adjust-
%íl ADJUSTING NUT ing nut must be seated in the notches on the sleeve.
(LOWER CLEARANCE)
CABLE LENGTH ADJUSTMENT— The cable

length adjusting nut should be positioned against
the cable housing so that there is at least .005"
but not more than .010" clearance between the
brake shoe operating lever and the brake shoe
cable. To lock the adjustment, tighten the cable
housing clamp securely and then tighten the cable
ADJUSTING NUT adjusting nut against the housing.
(UPPER CLEARANCE}
CABLE LOCK INSTALLATION OF CABLE—The length of the

NUT
45 x 438 handbrake cable from the master cylinder clip to
the internal brake must be held so that the cable
Figure 22 — Hand Brake Adjustment may not be moved downward more than 1 ½" from
(External Type) its free position and not less than 1 ¼" from same.
All other bends of the cable must have a radius
of not less than 6".
the clearance between band and bottom of drum
is .015 inch. Then lock the guide bolt securely.
REMOVAL
Turn the adjusting bolt nut (3) until the clearance
between the upper half of band and drum is (Internal Type)
.015 inch.
Use tool C-3281 to hold the transmission flange
The lock wire which retains the anchor bolt must and remove the flange nut, lockwasher, and shaft
not be drawn up tight. Otherwise, it will cause flange washer. Install puller C-452 and remove
excessive anchor bolt restriction and the result will brake drum. Remove the transmission brake sup-
be uneven wear on the linings and poor braking port grease shield spring. The spring is a guide for
action. the brake shoes and retains the brake support
Adjust the hand brake cable by loosening the grease shield to the transmission extension hous-
lock nut (4, Figure 22) and removing the clevis pin ing. Place a rubber band around the brake shoes
from the yoke. Turn yoke until the cable slack is to hold them in position and remove the brake shoe
removed with the actuating cam flat against the return spring. Remove the brake shoe anchor
end bracket on the band. Do not substitute a cable washer and guide. Then remove both shoes, ad-
adjustment for a hand brake adjustment. justing sleeve, nut, screw, and operating lever
link. The link is marked for installation purposes.
When the clearance has been adjusted prop- Remove remaining brake shoe guide. Remove the
erly, the hand brake should lock when the lever brake support grease shield from extension
is pulled back from four to six notches. housing.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 45
BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER

OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BRAKE ANCHOR
IMPORTANT BEARING OH. SEAL SHOt GUIDE
BRAKE SHOE
BRAKE SUPPORT OPERATING
Use care when removing the grease shield to GREASE SHIELD LFVPR LINK
BRAKE SHOE BRAKE SUPPORT
prevent damage to the neoprene sealing sur- ASSEMBLY GREASE SHIELD
SPRING
face at the bottom of the shield. Note indent BRAKE
SUPPORT
on shield for correct positioning on extension
BRAKE SHOE
housing. RETURN SPRING
CABLE GUIDE CLAMP J

BRACKET ASSEMBLY
REASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
BRAKE SHOE BRAKE SHOE
(Internal Type) ADJUSTING SLEEVE ADJUSTING SCREW
BRAKE SHOE
ADJUSTING NUT
Make sure the brake support spacer (neoprene)
is in position on back of brake support and spacer
sleeve is in center of support. Slide brake support
assembly over rear of extension housing and
Figure 23 — Internal Expanding Parking Brake
anchor pin. Make sure spacer sleeve remained in
center of support. Install brake support grease Drum Removed
shield on extension housing.
11. POWER BRAKES-Integral Type

CAUTION OPERATION
Indent in shield for correct positioning on The cutaway drawing in Figure 24 shows the
extension housing. Also shield must be lo- Plymouth power brake assembly in the unapplied
cated on housing far enough to permit installa- position. The diaphragm divides the air-vacuum
tion of spring later. housing into two sections, designated "A" and "B."
In the position shown, vacuum is maintained on
both sides of the diaphragm, throughout the hous-
Place both brake anchor washers on brake shoe ing. The source for this vacuum is the intake mani-
anchor and install locking anchor washer. Place fold of the vehicle engine, and it is applied to the
both shoe assemblies with adjusting sleeve nut and unit through the vacuum source tube. During the
screw into position on anchor. Make sure brake stages of operation, a regulated amount of air
shoes are between the anchor washers. Use rub- (atmosphere) is allowed to enter the area marked
ber band around shoes to help hold them into "A," while vacuum is maintained in area "B." The
position. Install operating link. Note link marked resulting pressure differential on the two sides of
for correct installation. Install the brake support the diaphragm provides the power which is used
grease shield spring (opening in spring toward for brake application.
adjusting sleeve). Make sure spring is properly-
The brake pedal is connected through linkage
seated in groove. Slide the brake shoe return
to the push rod of the brake power unit. When the
spring behind the grease shield spring and hook pedal is depressed, the push rod moves into the
into position. See Figure 23. Make sure brake ad- unit and, in doing so, it actuates valves which seal
justment is loose enough, then install brake drum off area "A" from the vacuum source while main-
assembly. taining vacuum in area "B." These air and vacuum
valves are located in the "hub" of the power piston,
and through their synchronized operation air (at-
NOTE mospheric pressure) is admitted to area "A" in an
In some instances it may be necessary to use amount proportional to the amount of pressure
tool C-496 to press brake drum on to output applied to the pedal by the driver of the car. This
shaft. creates a pressure differential in the air-vacuum
housing (air on one side, vacuum on the other)
which moves the diaphragm and power piston as-
Install the transmission flange washer, shake- sembly and with it the power piston sleeve. This
proof washer and nut. Using C-3281, tighten from sleeve is a hydraulic piston which moves into the
140 to 160 ft. lbs. hydraulic cylinder and displaces some of the fluid.
MyMopar.com
REACTION PISTON -POWER PISTON SLEEVE r- DIAPHRAGM POWER PISTON ASSEMBLY
FILLER CAP VACUUM VALVE
AIR VALVE / - P U S H ROD BOOT

FLUID RESERVOIR
REACTION CUP
BLEEDER
SCREW
PUSH ROD
HYDRAULIC AIR CLEANER BOOT

CYLINDER
AIR CLEANER CORE
AIR INLET
FLOATING CONTROL
VALVE ASSEMBLY
STOP LIGHT SWITCH

CONNECTION AIR VALVE SEAT ASSEMBLY
RESIDUAL VALVE
FLUID CONNECTION TO WHEELS VACUUM SOURCE TUBE -VACUUM CHECK VALVE
55P1Ì24
Figure 24 — Cutaway View of Power Brake Assembly
The fluid displaced is forced out into the lines to In the center, or hub, of the power piston are the
the wheel cylinders, where it moves the wheel air and vacuum valves. In the unapplied position,
cylinder pistons in the normal way to apply the the vacuum valve is open; that is, free passage is
brakes. The amount of braking pressure applied possible through the power piston, so that the ap-
at the wheels depends on the amount of pressure plication of manifold vacuum to the unit through
applied to the fluid in the hydraulic cylinder. This the vacuum source tube evacuates all of the air-
in turn is governed by the amount of power piston
vacuum housing. The air valve is closed, keeping
movement, which is in proportion to the pedal
pressure applied by the operator. atmosphere out. If the push rod is moved into the
unit, there will be a synchronous actuation of
In Figures 24 and 28 the essential operating parts unit, these valves will close the vacuum passages
of the unit are shown. The air-vacuum housing is at atmosphere.
divided into two parts by the diaphragm, which is
assembled to the power piston in such a way that When push rod travel stops, the valve arrange-
any movement of the diaphragm caused by vary- ment will cause the air valve to close while the
ing the relative pressures in the two sides of the vacuum valve remains closed, to maintain a poised
air-vacuum housing will be transmitted to the position in the unit. Then when the push rod returns
power piston and through it to the sleeve (hydraulic to the unapplied position, the air valve will again
piston). be closed and the vacuum valve open.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 47
The three basic stages of operation — unapplied, which moves into the unit. The end of the push rod
applying and poised — are shown in Figures 25, is anchored in a cavity in the center of the air
26 and 27 respectively. With the help of these dia- valve seat, so that its initial movement moves the
grams the movement of air and fluid, and the air valve seat in against the control and reaction
operation of the valves, is easily understood. springs, at the same time drawing the off stop seal
away from the guide sleeve and admitting atmos-
UNAPPLIED POSITION phere as far as the air valve. At this instant the
metering hole begins to "lead" the closing of the
In the unapplied position the brake power unit
vacuum valve and opening of the air valve. By
is at rest. The compensating ports, which are near
studying the illustration, it will be apparent that
the end of the power piston sleeve, are open so that
the floating control valve, which is subject to spring
there is communication between the fluid reservoir
tension, follows the air valve seat (thus keeping
and the hydraulic cylinder. Thus the necessary
the air valve closed) only until it reaches the
fluid volume in the cylinder and brake lines is con-
vacuum valve. At this point the vacuum valve
stantly maintained. The return spring in the air-
closes, so that there is no longer any passage for
vacuum housing is holding the power piston and
air evacuation through the power piston. Con-
push rod in the extreme "off" position. The air
tinued travel of the valve seat assembly then
valve is closed as indicated, seating against the
draws it away from the floating control valve, thus
floating valve seat ring. The vacuum valve is open,
opening the air valve and admitting air (atmo-
so that vacuum, which is introduced into the unit
sphere) to that side of the housing. The air enters
through the vacuum source tube and check valve
the unit through the integral air cleaner.
on the cylinder side of the housing, is maintained
on both sides of the diaphragm and power piston, Entry of air to one side of the diaphragm while
that is throughout the entire air-vacuum housing. vacuum is maintained on the other creates a pres-
The metering hole seal on the valve end of the sure differential which causes the diaphragm and
push rod is held in the "open" position; the meter- power piston assembly to move toward the hy-
ing hole is sealed at this point by the off-stop seal draulic cylinder end of the unit. It carries the
on the end of the air valve seat assembly, which sleeve (hydraulic piston) into the hydraulic cylin-
also seals the atmosphere out of the air-vacuum der, displacing fluid which is forced out into the
housing. lines to the wheel cylinders. The compensating
ports near the end of the sleeve are so positioned
APPLYING POSITION
that they are closed as soon as movement begins,
As the pedal is depressed by the driver, its mo- so that a correct volume of fluid is contained in
tion is transmitted through linkage to the push rod. the system.
METERING HOLE SEAL "OPEN"

VACUUM
COMPENSATING PORT OPEN VACUUM VALVE OPEN
AIR
FLUID STATIC
AIR VALVE CLOSED
FLUID PRESSURE
OFF-STOP SEAL"CLOSED"
AIR INLET
UNAPPLIED
POSITION
DETAIL OF AIR a VACUUM VALVES TO VACUUM SOURCE
TO BRAKE LINES 55P1125
Figure 25 — Unapplied Position
MyMopar.com
-METERING HOLE SEAL "CLOSED"

COMPENSATING VACUUM VALVE CLOSED
VACUUM
PORT ISOLATED
AIR
FLUID STATIC
FLUID PRESSURE
OFF-STOP SEAL OPEN
APPLYING
POSITION
AIR INLET
DETAIL OF AIR a VACUUM VALVES

55P1126
Figure 2 6 — Applying Position
"HOLDING" PRESSURE IN r¯COMPENSATING r¯ METERING HOLE

HYDRAULIC CYLINDER -i \PORT ISOLATED -AIR IN COVER SIDE, PLUS
PEDAL PRESSURE, BALANCES
"HOLDING" PRESSURE IN
VACUUM
AIR
|
1, •'.'•,•-••
]
1 \
\_r¯i_ )Ä J HYDRAULIC CYLINDER
-VACUUM VALVE CLOSED

FLUID STATIC
FLUID PRESSURE
Ei»¾%l
b«âMI¢«^
\
\
Ipiir t ft ff\rW¾
-AIR VALVE CLOSED
«T¾fii
-OFF-STOP SEAL OPEN
POISED
> VACUUM SOURCE
POSITION
DETAIL OF AIR a VACUUM VALVES TO BRAKE LINES
55P1127
Figure 27 — Poised Position
Immediately upon the opening of the air valve, course on the action of the operator. As long as
as hydraulic pressure develops, the metering hole there is push rod travel into the unit, the air valve
in the air valve seat assembly is closed by the seal is kept open and, as more air enters, the pressure
on the end of the reaction rod. The hydraulic re- differential increases. When a fully applied posi-
action which is transmitted through the reaction tion is reached, or when the operator stops the in-
rod to the operator also keeps this metering hole ward travel of the push rod, the air valve immedi-
sealed at all times until the unit once again returns ately closes to prevent the further entry of air.
to the fully unapplied position. Thus, as long as This can occur at any degree of application be-
there is "hydraulic reaction/' all communication cause, since the valves are contained in the hub
through the power piston is effectively closed, and of the power piston, they move with it and are
all of the air-vacuum power is directed toward therefore always properly positioned to respond
instantaneously to any variations in the operator's
assisting the driver to apply or hold the brakes.
pressure on the pedal. When the push rod reaches
The sequence of valve movements in actual op- a static position in the course of brake application
eration is practically instantaneous, depending of (this may be when full application is reached, or
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 49
when the operator stops depressing the pedal and the constant difference in diameters between the
"holds"), the unit is then said to be "poised." power piston sleeve (hydraulic piston) and the re-
action piston. The operator, therefore, has the
POISED POSITION physical sensation of the pressure being applied,
In the poised position all valves are closed. while at the same time the amount of pressure
While vacuum is still maintained in the cylinder which he must apply at the brake pedal is kept at
side of the air-vacuum housing, and air is held in a practical minimum. Thus his control of the whole
the push rod side, the unit is in the poised position. braking process is complete. At any point in brake
The air which is in the unit cannot escape, but no application where the operator reaches a "hold-
more air can enter. The hydraulic piston which is ing" position, the hydraulic reaction (pressure) im-
at some point (any point) of travel into the hydrau- parted to the air valve through the reaction rod
lic cylinder, stays exactly where it is. The same is maintains in the hydraulic system a pressure pro-
true of the push rod, which is held (by the operator portionate to the amount of thrust being applied
through the foot pedal) at some degree of applica- to the push rod at that point by the operator.
tion. The pressure being applied to the hydraulic
fluid by the air-vacuum differential plus the pedal
pressure is balanced exactly by the "holding" REMOVAL OF POWER BRAKE ASSEMBLY
pressure in the hydraulic cylinder and brake lines. When servicing the master cylinder or Power
The unit is "poised" ready to go either way, de- Brake unit, always remove the complete assembly.
pending on the action of the driver transmitted To do this, disconnect the push rod, stop light wires
through the pedal and push rod. If the pedal is and vacuum tubes, and remove the nuts which
further depressed, the air valve is opened and hold the assembly to the dash.
more air is admitted to increase the fluid pressure
through the additional "applying" movement of
the power piston. As pedal pressure is released IMPORTANT
the resulting withdrawal of the push rod causes the The brake system itself is serviced in the
air valve seat, and with it the floating control
conventional manner. Therefore, before servic-
valve, to move toward "unapplied." This opens the
vacuum valve and again evacuates the air out of ing the unit, test the operation of the complete
the entire air-vacuum housing. The unit immedi- brake system. Examine all connections to be
ately becomes "poised" whenever push rod travel sure they are tight. Fluid loss may occur at any
stops; this occurs regardless of the direction in point in the system; wheel cylinder cups or line
which the push rod was moving, and regardless of connections from unit to wheel cylinders.
its position at the time (except, of course, when it
returns to fully unapplied position).
At every stage of brake application, the "feel" DISASSEMBLY
of the fluid pressure in the hydraulic cylinder and Immediately after removing unit from vehicle,
brake lines is transmitted to the driver through the and before starting any disassembly, stroke the
reaction rod and piston. This provides the operator unit for at least two full applications to dissipate
with complete physical control during every mo- the vacuum in the unit and pump out (through the
ment that the brakes are being used. When at- wheel cylinder connection) as much hydraulic fluid
mosphere is admitted to the primary side of the as possible. Then remove reservoir filler cap and
unit, the power piston sleeve (hydraulic piston) and pour out all brake fluid which is in reservoir. Dis-
the reaction resisting the pressure of the hydraulic card fluid; do not re-use.
piston is, of course, exactly the same as the hydrau-
The stop light switch, which is in the boss on
lic pressure being applied at the brakes. Of this
hydraulic reaction, an amount sufficient to provide the bottom of the hydraulic cylinder, should not
the driver with the correct "feel" of the brake is be removed except for replacement or to correct
transmitted back to him through the reaction rod, an existing fluid leak.
which is free to move inside the hydraulic piston. I. MAJOR COMPONENTS — Remove push rod
The amount of hydraulic reaction transmitted back from unit by sliding boot down on rod. Clamp the
to the driver is always the same proportion of the end of push rod in vise, then pull the power unit
pressure being applied. This is accomplished by away from push rod with a quick jerk.
MyMopar.com
SPRING` PISTON AND SLEEVE
GUIDE AND SLEEVE DIAPHRAGM
SPRING^
RETAINER PISTON
SEAT, AND STOP
BUMPER
SEAL.
GUIDE \
VALVE'
SEAL
DIAPHRAGM,
RETAINER
RETAINER,
WICK
SPRING,
BODY
BOLT
LOCKWASHER
T NUT / SPACER RETAINER
GASKET
/ LOCKWASHER SCREW SEAL
B O VALVE
¤T GASKET PLUG
LOCKWASHER SPRIN
NUT RETAINER
LOCKWASHER
CAP
WASHER
BEARING
RETAINER
CAP
55x80
Figure 28 — Power Brake—Disassembled
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 51
11. POWER BRAKE — DISASSEMBLY POWER UN

BOOT
— Contd.
Open boot retainer strap and remove push rod
boot and air cleaner cover boot. Discard retainer
strap.
IMPORTANT
mkJ
Push rod is held in place by push rod re-
tainer clip, which cannot be re-used. Whenever
the push rod is removed from the unit, a new
retainer clip must be used at reassembly. BOOT RETAINER STRAP
Clamp unit in vise with hydraulic cylinder end Figure 29—Removing Push Rod From Unit
down, as shown. Vise should be clamped on hy-
draulic cylinder only tightly enough to hold secure-
ly; clamping too tightly will crack or distort
AIR CLEANER
cylinder. Remove reinforcement plate, then car COVER
AIR CLEANER
CORE
cleaner cover assembly by removing four hex nuts
and lockwashers. With cover assembly removed,
lift out four spacers and air cleaner core. See
BODY TO
Figure 30. COVER SPACER
Disassemble body assembly by removing two

clamp rings. To facilitate correct re-assembly,
loosen both clamp ring screws but remove only
one, keeping the two clamp ring parts held to- INSPECTION/
SCREW
gether in their proper relationship.
AIR CLEANER COVER

ATTACHING NUTS
CAUTION AND LOCKWASHERS
Be sure to lift straight up while holding

power piston guide sleeve down against re- 54x549
turn spring. Valve side of body assembly
should slide straight up and off of power Figure 30 — Air Cleaner Removal
piston guide sleeve.
POWER PiSTON A N D
GUIDE ASSEMBLY
Remove power piston and guide assembly from BODY (VALVE S I D E ) - — . . ^

body assembly by lifting straight up as shown.
This is important to prevent damage to power
piston sleeve and bearing. See Figure 31. RETURN SPRING
If edge of diaphragm did not free itself from

BODY (CYLINDER SIDE}- ___
flange of body assembly, hold power piston and
guide assembly down against return spring while
loosening edge of diaphragm. Then allow return
spring to lift power piston and guide assembly.
Remove return spring.
Remove hydraulic cylinder assembly off of body
assembly. Remove and discard cylinder-to-body
seal. See Figure 32. Figure 31 — Removing Power Piston and Guide
MyMopar.com
2. BODY ASSEMBLY (CYLINDER SIDE) — Re-

MASTER CYLINDER-
move vacuum check valve assembly, then remove
and discard check valve to body "O" ring. Position
check valve assembly in vise clamping on large
hex on body, to remove check valve body cap.
Lift out check valve spring and floating valve as-
CYLINDER TO BODY
` ' O " RING SEAL
sembly. Discard floating valve assembly, but do
not discard spring. Figure 33.
¡ MASTER
w CYLINDER TO
VACUUM ^ jfl· · ATTACHING 3. BODY ASSEMBLY (VALVE SIDE) — From
CHECK VALVE¯¯¯¯¯¯`¯`*‰,'>7 `¯*
-.XT-
NUTS AND hub of body assembly, valve side, remove and
LOCKWASHERS
discard guide seal and seal lubricating wick. This
can be done with small pointed pliers, using care
BODY not to damage guide bearing or wick retainer. Ex-
(CYLINDER SIDE) amine inspection screw and gasket; remove only
54x551 if damaged or not sealing properly. See Figure 34.
Figure 32 — Removal of Master Cylinder 4. POWER PISTON AND GUIDE ASSEMBLY—

Place power piston and guide assembly in holding
fixture, with power piston and guide end up. Lift
CHECK VALVE BODY
guide return bumper from guide sleeve, and dis-
card, but note its thickness. It is important that the
new bumper be the same thickness as the one
removed. Except on very early production, the
thicker bumper is smooth on both sides. See
Figure 35.
FLOATING VALVE
Remove diaphragm retainer and diaphragm.
Lift guide assembly off of power piston assembly,
and remove and discard "O" ring seal from be-
tween these two assemblies.
SPRING" Remove and discard floating control valve as-
sembly, diaphragm valve assembly, and valve
54x552
Figure 33 — Check Valve

DIAPHRAGM RETAINER - - * /
INSPECTION SCREW
GUIDE AND SLEEVE"'- - –
BODY
(VALVE SIDE) POWER PISTON
DIAPHRAGM
POWER PISTON , '

GUIDE SEAL AND SLEEVE
HOLDING
FIXTURE
RETAINER ATTACHING
SCREWS AND .
LOCKWASHERS
SEAL LUBRICATING WICK

54x553 54x554
Figure 34 — Guide Seal Assembly Figure 35 — Power Piston and Guide Assembly
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 53
balancing diaphragm, but do not discard spring, 5. HYDRAULIC CYLINDER ASSEMBLY — Place
or spring retainer. See Figure 36. cylinder assembly in vise with flange end up. Do
not clamp tightly. Using a face spanner wrench,
With power piston assembly still in holding fix- remove cylinder plug assembly. Disassemble
ture, lift out air valve seat assembly and discard. cylinder plug assembly by hand by removing
Lift out control spring and reaction spring. lift out primary cup, retainer and primary cup seal from
reaction rod assembly. Remove and discard meter- cylinder plug. Primary cup is easily removed by
ing hole seal and buffer. See Figure 37. gripping the inner cup lip between thumb and
forefinger. Discard cup and seal; do not discard
Remove power piston assembly from holding retainer. See Figure 39.
fixture, insert a drift pin into center of power pis-
ton, and push out reaction piston insert, and dome From hydraulic cylinder, lift out primary cup
cup assembly. See Figure 38. retainer, power piston bearing, and secondary cup
support washer. Then remove secondary cup only.
Using extreme care to avoid marring reaction Then lift out secondary cup retainer. See Figure 40.
piston or dome cup insert remove and discard re-
action cup. Reaction piston and cup insert can be With cylinder clamped in vise, remove second-
popped out of cup by pinching dome between ary connection plug, and residual check valve
thumb and forefinger. seat. Then lift out residual check valve assembly,
and residual check valve spring. Discard residual
check valve assembly and seat. See Figure 41.
GUIDE AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLYv-
POWER PISTON A N D SLEEVE
REACTION PISTON ASSY

FLOATING CONTROL
VALVE SPRING
BRASS DRIFT
DIAPHRAGM
A N D SPRING
RETAINER
VALVE BALANCING DIAPHRAGM
FLOATING CONTROL VALVE

54x555
54x558
Figure 36 — Guide and Sleeve Assembly Figure 38 — Removal of Dome Cup
PISTON AND SLEEVE

"O" RING
REACTION ROD AND
AIR VALVE SEAT BUFFER CYLINDER PLUG
PRIMARY CUP SEAL

METERING HOLE SEAL
li
O M RING
REACTION ROD
A N D STOP
CONTROL SPRING-^"
PRIMARY CUP AND
REACTION S P R I N G " ' SEAL RETAINER
AIR VALVE SEAT PRIMARY CUP 54x559

54x557
Figure 37 — Power Piston—Disassembled Figure 39 — Primary Cup and Seal

MyMopar.com
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION
J. HYDRAULIC CYLINDER ASSEMBLY — Posi-
tion hydraulic cylinder in vise with secondary con- Residual check valve spring may make
nection boss facing up. Insert residual check valve residual check valve and seat pop out as soon
spring and new residual check valve assembly. as secondary connection plug is removed.
Place new residual check valve seat on residual
Remove and discard gasket from secondary
check valve; center carefully.
connection plug. Remove bleeder screw.
MASTER CYLINDER
SECONDARY Assemble secondary connection plug and new

CUP RETAINER
gasket to hydraulic cylinder. Tighten to approxi-
SECONDARY mately 125 ft. lbs. of torque.
CUP
Position hydraulic cylinder in vise with flange
end up, and wet inside of cylinder with brake fluid.
POWER PISTON Then insert secondary cup retainer, small end up,
BEARING
being sure that it rests evenly on shoulder in hy-
draulic cylinder bore. Then, after wetting new
secondary cup with brake fluid, insert it into
cylinder. Cup lips must be down; be sure that cup
SECONDARY CUP
SUPPORT WASHER lip is not turned back at any point as cup slides
into cylinder. Place secondary cup support washer
PRIMARY CUP RETAINER ^-/ in position on secondary cup.
54x560 w Insert power piston bearing into cylinder on top
Figure 40 — Secondary Cup and Retainer of secondary cup support washer. Notched face
of bearing must face up, and bearing must be
centered in cylinder bore.
v
MASTER CYLINDER
Place primary cup retainer, notched edge down

RESIDUAL CHECK in hydraulic cylinder, centering it on notched sur-
VALVE SPRING
face of power piston bearing. This is very impor-
/
tant. Be sure that retainer is centered as closely as
t¿> RESIDUAL
<CHECK VALVE possible by eye, so it will not be damaged when
cylinder plug assembly is installed. See Figure 39.
/
ù`ß / Assemble cylinder plug assembly by inserting
1 new seal, seal retainer flat side out, and new
primary cup, into plug in order shown. Both the
GASKET
"J seal and cup must enter the plug with lips facing
out.
Use finger to force outside lip of both seal and
54x561 SECONDARY CONNECTION PLUG '"""* primary cup down and outward against bore of
plug to insure sealing contact.
Figure 4 1 — Residual Check V a l v e
Install cylinder plug assembly into hydraulic
CUP INSERT cylinder using a face spanner wrench. Tighten to
approximately 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
/REACTION PISTON
2. GUIDE ASSEMBLY—-Inspect inner end sur-
face of guide casting where it seats against air
valve seat assembly. This must be smooth and
clean.
REACTION CUP-"" Position guide assembly in holding fixture with
54x562
sleeve end down. Then assemble new valve bal-
Figure 42 — Reaction Piston Insert and ancing diaphragm on new floating control valve
Dome Cup —after wetting the outside diameter of the dia-
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 55
phragm slightly with hydraulic brake fluid. Press Place reaction spring in center of reaction stop
spring retainer over diaphragm and floating valve cavity, and control spring around outside of reac-
assembly, using thumb pressure only. Then wet tion stop, in power piston cavity. See Figure 37.
the inside diameter of diaphragm slightly with
hydraulic brake fluid and place spring on retainer. Install new air valve seat "O"ringseal in groove
on outside diameter oí new air valve seat assembly
Press complete assembly down on power piston using care to preserve silicone grease on seal.
guide stop. Also install new power piston to guide (This seal is supplied pre-greased in cellophane
"O" ring seal on power piston guide hub. envelope in kit.)
Install complete air valve seat assembly in

3. POWER PISTON AND GUIDE — Assemble center of power piston cavity, over control spring
stainless steel reaction piston into bronze dome cup reaction spring and reaction rod stop. Use a twist-
insert. Small diameter oí bronze insert must be ing motion as seal enters bore of power piston.
toward spherical end of reaction piston. See Fig- Then use thumb pressure to test air valve seat
ure 42. springs for freedom of movement.
Assemble new pre-greased dome reaction cup

over spherical end of reaction piston and insert
assembly. Force cup back firmly to assure snug NOTE
fit of cup bead in groove of insert. Place power
piston and sleeve assembly on bench,, sleeve end Air valve seat is steel, power piston cavity
up, and after lubricating the outside diameter of is aluminum casting; use extreme care to avoid
reaction cup with brakefluid,press reaction piston, any damage or marking, especially on alumi-
insert end dome cup assembly into power piston num vacuum valve seat.
sleeve, dome out. Use care to avoid damaging cup.
Press down into sleeve firmly until it bottoms.
Check to be sure that the outside diameter of re-
action cup is not obstructing compensating ports, Position diaphragm retainer over guide and
and that all of these port holes are open and clean. sleeve assembly, with three of the six holes in the
retainer lined up with the three holes in the guide.
Assemble new buffer and new metering hole
seal to reaction rod and stop assembly. Invert Position diaphragm on flange of power piston
power piston and sleeve assembly and place in and sleeve assembly with flange of diaphragm
holding fixture, sleeve end down, then drop com- down. Be sure that inside diameter of diaphragm
plete reaction rod assembly into center of power is nested snugly all around in groove of power
piston. See Figure 43. piston flange.
With power piston diaphragm retainer and guide

assembly held directly above power piston as-
sembly, insert push rod without retaining clip
through center bore of guide and into push rod
REACTION ROD`- cavity in center of air valve seat assembly. Then,
holding air valve seat down against control and
reaction springs, position guide assembly so that
the three holes in the guide line up with the three
tapped holes in the power piston. Be sure that "O"
ring seal is properly positioned between guide and
POWER PISTON/
HOLDING
power piston.
AND SLEEVE
FIXTURE
Install three lockwashers and hex bolts through
holes in diaphragm retainer and into tapped holes
in power piston. Tighten all three bolts evenly with
54x563 a torque of 90-100 inch pounds. Using push rod,
check for freedom of movement of air valve seat
Figure 43 — Power Piston and Reaction Rod against control and reaction springs. See Figure 44.
MyMopar.com
PUSH ROD — Apply any grease remaining in seal and wick

envelopes to inside of hub, to provide maximum
lubrication for seal, wick and guide bearing.
Check inspection screw and gasket to be sure
GUIDE A N D SLEEVE-
they are tight.
POWER PISTON
DIAPHRAGM
AND SLEEVE RETAINER 5. BODY ASSEMBLY CYLINDER SIDE—Position
" O " RING
vacuum check valve body in vise and insert new
POWER PISTON SEAL floating valve assembly, being sure that bonded
DIAPHRAGM rubber seal is facing down, against seat. Then
assemble spring and cap. See Figure 33.
6. ASSEMBLY OF MAJOR COMPONENTS —

Place new cylinder-to-body seal in groove around
HOLDING FIXTURE — 54x564
cylinder plug assembly, being careful to avoid
twisting seal.
Figure 44 — Assembling Guide and Sleeve to
Power Piston Diaphragm Assemble hydraulic cylinder assembly to body.
Position cylinder on body in such a way that, when
viewing assembly from cylinder end, vacuum
Place a new rubber guide return bumper over check valve is to the left of the hydraulic cylinder.
guide sleeve and press firmly down on hub of Then assemble hex nuts and lockwashers to studs,
guide. finger tight only.
Position cylinder assembly with body assembly,

NOTE cylinder side, in vise with cylinder end down and
A kit, available from Chrysler Corporation body assembly flange facing up. Place return
Parts Division, contains two guide return spring in body assembly, centering it around cyl-
bumpers, each of a different thickness. It is inder plug assembly and inside the four cylinder
important to install the bumper which is the flange bolt heads in housing.
same thickness as the one which was taken
Assemble power piston and guide assembly to
out of the unit at disassembly.
body assembly, valve side by inserting guide
sleeve through hub of body assembly. Be careful
to avoid damaging felt wick in hub.
4. BODY ASSEMBLY VALVE SIDE — With body
assembly, valve side resting on bench, hub end Hold assembled power piston and guide assem-
up, insert new guide seal into hub, being sure that bly and body assembly, valve side by guide
lips of seal are facing up, away from bearing, and sleeve, which now protrudes out of hub of body.
that seal is installed between bearing and wick Wipe power piston sleeve with brake fluid, then
retainer which is inside hub. carefully position power piston on return spring
so that spring nests around shoulder of power
piston.
NOTE
Press power piston and guide assembly down
Seal will slip easily into place if held into unit against return spring, watching to avoid
between thumb and forefinger, in an elliptical misalignment as power piston sleeve enters bore
shape, and inserted through hub of body. This of cylinder plug assembly. Holding power piston
seal is supplied pre·greased in a cellophane and guide assembly down against spring, place
envelope in the repair kit. edge of diaphragm in groove on flange of body
assembly, valve side over edge of diaphragm and
flange of body assembly, press firmly into position.
Insert new wick into hub in same manner as seal
was inserted, using care to preserve grease on With two sides of the body assembly properly
wick. After wick is installed, be sure that wick mated, place two half ring clamps over body
retainer is positioned snugly against wick and flanges, being sure that the flat portions of the
away from cup lips. rings match the cutaway portions of the body
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 57
flanges. Fasten half ring clamps with two clamp PUSH ROD BOOT
ring screws, lockwashers and hex nuts. Tap ring
clamps snugly into place with a rubber mallet, AIR CLEANER
COVER BOOT
then tighten securely. "Do not lubricate" tag,
should be attached on either side of unit, under
one of these two nuts.
PUSH ROD
NOTE
The two sides of the body assembly must be
`» + PUSH ROD RETAINER CUP 54×565
so assembled that the notches on one side
mate with the keys on the other, and the cuta-
way portions of the flanges match. Figure 45 — Push Rod Assembly
nested snugly in groove on outer end of push rod.

Press power piston and guide assembly down See Figure 45.
as far as possible against return spring three or Holding boots back toward outer end of push
four times to be sure that power piston sleeve and rod, press push rod with retainer clip straight
hydraulic cylinder are properly centered. Remove down through center of guide sleeve and into air
unit from vise, invert, and while holding unit down valve seat cavity. Exert approximately 40 pounds
to push power piston and guide assembly into of pressure until end of push rod snaps into place.
fully applied position, tighten evenly the four cyl- When properly installed, push rod is held securely
inder flange nuts, using a torque of 180-200 inch enough in place so that it can be used to lift the
pounds. After all flange nuts are tight, power pis- weight of the unit.
ton and guide assembly must return freely to off
position as soon as pressure is released. If power Fit boots on flange of sleeve of air cleaner cover
piston does not return freely, loosen cylinder assembly, first the cover boot assembly, then the
flange nuts and re-align cylinder to housing; then push rod boot, being sure that they fit snugly.
retighten nuts and test again for free return. Then install new boot retainer strap. Reinstall
bleeder screw and reservoir filler cap and gasket.
Also reinstall stop light switch if it has been re-
Return unit to vise as shown, then blow out or moved. Be sure all are in position and secure
replace air cleaner core, centering it around hub before reinstalling unit on vehicle.
of body assembly. Then place one spacer around
each of four mounting bolts. See Figure 30.
INSTALLATION OF UNIT ON CAR
Assemble air cleaner cover assembly to unit Install push rod end (clevis) on push rod and
over air cleaner core and spacers, position cover adjust dimension "A" (between reinforcing plate
so that air inlets will face down when unit is and centerline of hole in clevis—See Figure 46—to
mounted in position on vehicle. Assemble rein- 8 2 ¾ 2 inches. Then tighten the "jam" nut on the
forcement plate to unit over air cleaner, cover clevis. Reinstall unit on car and connect clevis to
assembly, positioning plate so that its longest di- pedal arm. Connect wheel cylinder line to wheel
mension will be below unit when mounted in posi- cylinder outlet on side of cylinder, and connect
tion on vehicle. Install four lockwashers and hex the vacuum source to the vacuum inlet tube of
nuts and tighten securely with a torque of 180-200 the vacuum check valve mounted on the unit of
inch pounds. the housing.
Be sure guide sleeve and air cleaner cover BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
sleeve are concentric. If necessary, tap cover Using a pressure bleeder attached to the fluid
sleeve lightly with rubber mallet to align. reservoir of the unit, bleed at the bleeder screw
immediately forward of the reservoir on top of the
Insert push rod into push rod boot then into air hydraulic cylinder of the unit—then at the four
cleaner cover boot and insert assembly and snap wheel cylinders. When fluid runs clear at all
NEW push rod retainer clip into position on small points, start the car engine; pump the brake pedal
end of push rod. Be sure that small end of boot is several times; and rebleed. After bleeding is com-
MyMopar.com
11. POWER BRAKES-BELLOWS TYPE

-8-25/32 INCH-
OPERATION
The bellows-type power brake unit is designed

,¯f† to reduce pedal effort by applying power directly
to the pedal linkage. The entire hydraulic brake
LOCK NUT
system is identical to a standard brake as no
hydraulic connections are necessary.
CLEVIS
REINFORCEMENT PLATE The unit is an oval-shaped air-vacuum bellows

which is mounted on the engine side of the dash
54x566 panel and connected mechanically to the brake
pedal linkage. It is a vacuum operated brake
Figure 46 — Push Rod Adjustment on Bench
booster and includes a vacuum reserve tank. The
unit assembly contains the air and vacuum valves.
As the foot pedal is depressed, air is evacuated
pleted, check the brake system for leaks while from the bellows allowing atmospheric pressure
applying heavy brake pressure with the car engine to compress the bellows.
running.
The manner in which the unit is mounted in the
vehicle, and the linkage which connects it to the
NOTE brake pedal, are shown in Figure 47.
After bleeding is complete, fill the reservoir The power unit assembly is mounted on the en-
to no higher than ¼" below the filler cap neck. gine side of the dash panel. A yoke assembly pro-
trudes through the dash panel and provides the
connection between the power unit and the pedal
linkage. When application of the brakes begins,
PEDAL ADJUSTMENT force is applied from the booster through the yoke
assembly to the pedal assembly. In this way the
No adjustment of power unit for free play or contraction of the bellows assists in applying the
return stop is required. The power brake unit has brakes. Through the yoke, mechanical contact
built-in a pedal return spring and a pedal return between the unit and the brake linkage exists only
stop, and therefore, requires no "free play" adjust- when the unit is assisting in a brake application.
ment. The pedal height and travel are determined
by the combined length of the push rod and push
rod end (clevis) which is adjustable. PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
If adjustment is made while unit is installed on POWER UNIT PUSH ROD

POWER UNIT
car—slide a scale next to boot, inside of pedal VALVE OPERATING LEVER
bracket up to and against dash panel, and meas-
ure distance to centerline of clevis pin. This dis- VALVE OPERATING LEVER
ADJUSTING CAM
tance should be 82%2 inches.
BRAKE PEDAL
RETURN SPRING
If not, readjust clevis on rod, retighten clevis
jam nut and recheck dimension. If adjustment is FILLER PLUG
made on rod before unit is installed on car, meas- STOP LIGHT
SWITCH
ure from reinforcing plate mounted on unit to cen- POWER LEVER
ter line of clevis pin hole. This dimension should
be 8 2 ¾ 2 inches.
MASTER CYLINDER
This pedal adjustment determines the pedal PUSH ROD
height in the car with the unit in the unapplied

position. It is suggested that for greatest braking
efficiency, driving ease, and comfort, that the 56P119
brake shoes be kept well adjusted to maintain
maximum pedal reserve with brake applied. Figure 47 — Power Brake Assembly
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 59
If there should be a loss of vacuum, the brake

pedal is free to move completely independent of TO VACUUM SOUKCI
the power unit. A loss of vacuum power simply AIR-VACUUM BELLOWS

returns the operator to conventional hydraulic
brakes. In effect, the power unit is connected into
the brake linkage when it is assisting, and com-
pletely disconnected from it when it is not.
Vacuum from the intake manifold is applied to
the unit, and air is evacuated from the air-vacuum AIR VALVE OP
bellows through the vacuum valve during brake

application. When the brakes are released, air UNAPPLIED
(atmospheric) enters the unit through the built-in
air cleaner, and is regulated by the air valve. The 56P121
valve operating rod, which is controlled by the
pedal, overcomes the spring pressure of the air
valve spring and keeps atmospheric pressure
inside as well as outside the air-vacuum bellows. Figure 48 — Power Brake — Unapplied Position
The return spring assures complete extension of
the bellows whenever the brakes are not being
applied.
TO VACUUM SOURCE
As shown in Figures 48, 49, and 50 these draw-

ings show the unit in the unapplied, applying and AIR-VACUUM BELLOWS
poised positions, respectively.

In the unapplied position, the air-vacuum bellows
is filled with air (atmosphere). The power produced
by the unit is developed when vacuum removes
the air from the bellows and causes it to contract.
The position of the valves in Figure 48 shows APPLYING
the unit "unapplied." The air valve is open, so that

air is freely admitted to the air-vacuum bellows. 56P122
The vacuum valve is closed, thus preventing any
evacuation of air from the bellows. The air valve
spring bears against the air valve and would
Figure 49 —Power Brake —Applying Position
cause it to close if it were not restrained by the
valve operating rod, which passes through the
bumper on the end of it. The pedal linkage return
spring tends to keep the air valve in the "unap-
plied" position. This spring load which is trans- TO VACUUM SOURCE
mitted to the valve operating rod overcomes the

air valve spring and keeps the air valve open. As AIR-VACUUM BELLOWS
soon as foot pressure is applied to the pedal, this

restraint on the air valve is removed and it is
allowed to close. Further movement of the air
valve overcomes the vacuum valve spring and
opens the vacuum valve, as shown in Figure 49.
The unit is in the "applying" position. With the HOLDING,
bellows isolated from atmosphere and vacuum OR "POISED"
applied to it, it contracts and applies force to the
brake pedal linkage through the pedal-to-unit
yoke. The amount of force applied to the linkage
by the power unit is in direct proportion to the
amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal. Figure 50 —Power Brake — Poised Position
MyMopar.com
AIR VALVE
BOLTS (4)
AIR FILTER
VALVE HOUSING
SEAL
LOCKWASHERS (4)
" O " RING
COVER PLATE
" O " RING SPRING
VACUUM VALVE
BELLOWS
RETURN SPRING
OUTER MOUNTING COVER

BELLOWS SUPPORTS
INNER MOUNTING PLATE
NUTS (4)
OPERATING ROD
BUTTON
" O " RING
STOP-SEAL WASHER
SET SCREW
-YOKE
" O " RING-
SET SCREW- 56P129
F¡gure 51 —Power Unit — Disassembled
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 61
As the pedal pressure is varied to suit braking

requirements, the force supplied by the unit instan-
taneously varies in proportion. If at any point
during brake application or release, a holding SPACER BLOCK
position is required, the unit immediately becomes
"poised," ready to respond to further application
or release. Valve positions when the unit is
"poised" are shown in Figure 50. The air and
vacuum valves are closed. Additional pedal pres-
sure will cause further evacuation of the bellows
to add force to the application; release of the pedal
pressure will open the air valve to admit air to the
bellows. At any point between fully released and
fully applied the unit will instantly become poised
whenever a constant pedal pressure is maintained. 56x59
Figure 52 —Unit Removal
NOTE
YOKE- «*n
A service package is available that contains
all "O" rings and seals that are used in the
power unit. When servicing a unit use all new
"O" rings and seals to insure complete satis-
factory booster performance. SET SCREWS
The "O" rings and seals in this package are STOP SEAL WASHER
pre-greased with a sílicone type grease for
ease of installation and to prevent any twist
or damage when installing. If necessary to add
grease to these parts be sure and use silicone
type because it does not change in consistency
on the working parts during high and low
temperatures.
56P137
Figure 53 —Yoke and Valve Operating

DISASSEMBLY Rod Removal
1. REMOVAL — Place a wood wedge between
the power brake lever and the forward edge of
the triangular hole in the pedal bracket, as shown to allow removal of yoke. Slide yoke off end of
in Figure 52. This will prevent the trigger arm from guide and away from unit, as shown in Figure 53.
extending beyond the bracket. (Slightly compress bellows by hand for clearance
when loosening set screws.) Remove rubber stop
seal washer.
NOTE Lift the valve operating rod out of the unit.
If pedal linkage is allowed to extend through Remove and discard the valve operating button
the hole in dash panel the trigger arm may be seal, as shown in Figure 53.
damaged. Remove the nuts that attach the outer mounting
plate and using a screwdriver, gently pry up on
plate to loosen. Lift plate straight up and away
Remove the nuts that attach the dash panel rein- from unit. Discard "O" ring. See Figure 54.
forcement to the unit. Slide plate off and away from Compress the bellows by hand sufficiently to
unit. expose the guide sleeve bearing. Slide bearing
2. DISASSEMBLY OF UNIT — Using an Allen off end of guide. Remove and discard the bearing
wrench, back out the two set screws sufficiently seal from inside of bearing.
MyMopar.com
OUTER BELLOWS SUPPORTS (3)

MOUNTING GUIDE
PLATE
INNER
MOUNTING
GUIDE 'PLATE
ALIGNMENT
ARROWS VALVE HOUSING
NUTS BELLOWS
56P ì 3 6
Figure 54 —Removing Outer Mounting Plate Figure 57 — Bellows Supports
BELLOWS FLANGE
AIR í¡L!LR COVER Peel back the outer lip of bellows completely
around the inner mounting plate. Exercise care in
" O ¯ R¡NG removing the inner plate as the bellows return
spring may force the mounting plate upward.
Remove plate and lift out the return spring and
spring retainer.
3. DISASSEMBLY OF VALVES — Place unit on

its side. Remove the bolts and lockwashers that
attach the valve cover to valve. Lift off valve cover,
as shown in Figure 55. (If necessary, use a flat
VALVE HOUSING blade to separate cover plate from the bellows
flange.) Extreme care should be used to avoid
marking or scratching inner face of plate where
56PI 35 it clamps to bellows flange. A scratch on this
surface could cause a leak. Remove the "O" ring
Figure 55— Valve Cover Removed from valve cover and discard.
Remove the air valve spring from center of valve.
Remove the air filter. Slide the air valve out of the
valve housing, as shown in Figure 56. It may be
VALVE HOUSING
necessary to use a hooked wire to remove valve.
Place the valve housing end up on bench. Re-
move the bellows from valve by peeling back
the outer lip of bellows. Lift bellows up and away
from valve. If a new bellows is to be installed,
remove the three bellows supports as shown in
Figure 57.
Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach
the guide to the valve housing and lift off guide to
expose the vacuum valve, valve spring and seals,
`~r as shown in Figure 58. Remove and discard seals.
AIR VALVE
Lift out the vacuum valve and retainer, as shown
56x535
in Figure 59. Remove and discard valve housing-
Figure 56 —Air Valve Removal to-guide seal.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 63
GUIDE
VALVE SEAL
VACUUM VALVE
VACUUM VALVE
GUIDE SEAL
SPR!NG
VACUUM
VALVE
VACUUM VALVE
RETAINER
VALVE HOUSING VALVE HOUSING
56x537
Figure 58—Valve Housing Guide Removed Figure 59 —Removal of Vacuum Valve

and Retainer
Invert the valve housing, and remove the air

AIR VALVE SEAL (LIPS OF
valve seal from its groove in valve body. See SEAL FACING OUT)
Figure 60.
CAUTION
If a sharp instrument or pointed pliers is

used during the air valve seal removal, be very
careful not to mark or scratch the inside diam-
eter bore of valve housing as it might result in
an air leak.
VALVE
HGUS'NO 56x539
INSPECTION
Clean all parts (except bellows and air filter) in Figure 60 — Air Valve Seal Removal
a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed and Installation
air. If necessary, the bellows can be cleaned with
a mild soap and water solution. The filter if
extremely dirty should be replaced. After parts are
valve in the retainer. Invert valve housing and
cleaned, place on clean paper for reassembly.
install vacuum valve and retainer in housing, as
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Check the shown in Figure 61.
air valve for signs of scoring or wear. If valve
Install a new valve housing-to-guide seal in the
body or valve is scored or worn, install new parts
groove provided in the bore of guide, with the lips
as required. At assembly, use new "O" rings and
of seal toward bottom of bore, as shown in Figure
seal rings throughout.
62.
Be sure all seal and "O" rings are suitably cov-
2. ASSEMBLY OF BODY — Install the vacuum
ered with silicone grease. (Rings and seals are valve spring in the smallest end of the valve.
pre-coated in parts kits.) Position the guide over the vacuum valve, lining
up bolt holes in guide with the bolt holes in the
ASSEMBLY
valve body. (Refer to Figure 58.) Carefully lower
L ASSEMBLY OF VALVE — Insert a new air guide down against valve body, making sure the
valve seal into the bore of the valve housing (lips tapered portion of the vacuum valve enters seal
of seal facing outward when installed), as shown evenly. Press down on guide to seat. Install bolts
in Figure 60. Carefully position a new vacuum and lockwashers. Tighten evenly and securely.
MyMopar.com
VACUUM VALVE AND ,*

RETA!NER-^_ , 1
RETURN SPRING
GUIDE
VALVE HOUSING
56x541 56x546
Figure 61 —Assembling Vacuum Valve Figure 64 — Assembling Return Spring

and Retainer
SEAL
II a new bellows is being installed, position the
(LIPS TOWARD supports in bellows. (Supports must be centered
in the three center accordion folds and aligned
with bellows and each other.)
Using holding fixture, (fixture can be made from
a piece of 4" pipe high enough to support the
guide and valve assembly) install the bellows as
GUIDE shown in Figure 63. Be sure the arrows on edge of
bellows and housing are aligned to conform the
56x542 bellows contour to the housing.
With the assembly in the holding fixture, lightly
coat the outside surface of the air valve with sili-
Figure 62 — Assembling Valve Housing to cone grease (do not use any other kind); then
Guide Seal insert air valve (small end first) into the bore of
valve housing, as shown in Figure 63. Use finger
pressure to test for free movement of valve against
vacuum valve spring.
AIR VALVE
Install air valve spring in recess in air valve.
(Refer to Figure 56.)
Install a new air valve housing cover "O" ring
on the shoulder provided on the valve housing
hub. Position the valve housing cover over the
valve housing, with notch in the edge of cover
matching the arrow on bellows.
Be sure that the air valve spring nestles on the
dimple in the center of the cover. Press cover down
evenly over valve housing to seat cover "O" ring.
Install bolts and tighten securely.
ALIGNING
ARROWS Remove assembly from holding fixture and
invert unit. Coat the guide lightly with silicone
grease and install return spring, as shown in Fig-
56x544 ure 64. Position the spring evenly around hub of
Figure 63 — Air Valve Assembly valve housing and guide.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 65
TO VACUUM SOURCE
AIR-VACUUM BELLOWS
AIR INLET,
AIR VALVE
AIR VALVE SPRING
VACUUM VALVE
AIR FILTER
VACUUM VALVE SPRING
56P120
Figure 65 — Unit Identifying Parts
Place the spring retainer and inner mounting

plate over spring, being sure that the arrow
stamped on plate is in line with arrow on edge of
bellows. Compress return spring, then fold bellows INNER MOUNTING COVER
lip over edge of plate. See Figure 66. TAPERED HOLES
BEARING , (SET SCREW)
Install a new guide bearing sleeve seal in
groove inside bearing bore. The seal must nest
snugly in bearing with the lips pointing outward.
Using silicone grease, lubricate the inside of
bearing and slide over guide while compressing
bellows.
Install the bearing-to-mounting plate "O" ring.
Lower outer mounting plate downward on assem-
bly. The notch on edge of plate must be in line
with arrow on bellows.
Slide a new valve operating rod "O" ring over 56×SÂ7
nylon bumper on end of rod and into groove.

Install rod in the center of guide. Press on end of Figure 66 — Assembling Inner Mounting Plate
rod to test for free operation or movement of the into Bellows
MyMopar.com
GAUGE
TRIGGER PIVOT
TRIGGER
PIVOT
COLLAR
POWER
BRAKE
LEVER CENTER LINE-
ADJUSTING
SCREW
56x6lA
Figure 67 —Power Brake Trigger Arm Adjustment
air and vacuum valves. A "two step" movement PEDAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
should be felt when the rod is depressed and
released fully. If it becomes necessary to disassemble or
replace the pedal linkage, the following bench
Place a new stop-seal washer in position and tests and adjustments must be made prior to
install yoke on end of guide. Compress the bellows installation of linkage assembly on vehicle:
slightly and alternately tighten set screws. The hub
of yoke must be down snug against shoulder of J. PEDAL TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT — Install
guide, with set screws aligned with the tapered gauge, Tool C-3508, on power lever cross pin, posi-
holes in guide. tioning center lines, on gauge, as shown in Figure
67.
Place the dash panel reinforcement in position,
with the long center line of the bracket at a right Position power brake adjusting screw, as shown
angle to the long center line of the power unit. The in illustration "A" (Fig. 67). Using a screwdriver,
off-set of the bracket must be so located that, when wedge the power brake pedal pivot to the rear side
installed in car, the axis of the unit will be inclined of hole in power lever until the power brake adjust-
downward toward the front of the car. Install locking screw collar is completely compressed and
washers and nuts and tighten securely. metal-to-metal contact is made.
3. INSTALLATION OF UNIT — Before installing With gauge installed and adjusting screw collar
unit make sure the two nylon bushings on the compressed, the outer curved surface of the trigger
power lever pin are in place with the flanged end arm must contact the inner circle of the gauge,
against the power lever. that is, the distance between the center line of the
power brake lever cross pin and the outer curved
surface of the power brake pedal trigger arm must
NOTE be .640 inch, plus or minus .005 inch.
Be sure wedge is installed between power If the position of trigger arm does not conform
brake lever and forward edge of triangular to this specification, adjustment is made by turning
hole in pedal bracket. Refer to Figure 52. power brake adjusting screw until trigger arm
Position the unit so that its axis inclines down outer surface is in alignment with inner circle of
toward front of car and that the vacuum inlet gauge, as shown in Figure 67 (illustration "A").
connection is toward the engine. After correct setting has been made, tighten ad-
justing screw securely.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 67
2. CHECKING ARC OF TRIGGER ARM — Install

gauge. Tool C-3508, on power lever cross pin. With
wedge, or screwdriver removed, and the trigger
arm-to-power brake lever cross pin dimension
adjusted correctly, the outer curved surface of the
trigger arm must contact the outer circle of the
gauge within the angle scribed on the gauge.
Refer to Figure 67.
NOTE
With the pedal assembly clamped in vise,

it will be necessary to move power lever (by
hand) to locate trigger arm on outer circle of
gauge.
FREE PLAY
If position of trigger arm does not meet this
requirement, the trigger arm can be carefully bent 36P131
to specifications. In cases where trigger arm is Figure 69 — Pedal Free Play Adjustment
"out" an excessive amount, the entire trigger arm
assembly must be replaced. If a new trigger arm
assembly is installed, dimension must be re-
checked.
be from ¾ 6 to ¼ inch. See Figure 69. Lengthening
PEDAL ADJUSTMENT or shortening of the push rod if necessary, should
be made at this time. If the trigger pivot and power
J. FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT — A free play ad- brake lever are not wedged apart, a false free
justment check should be made at NO VACUUM. play setting will be measured at the pad end of
Insert a wedging tool (a long screwdriver will do) the pedal.
between the trigger pivot and the rear side of the
hole in the power brake lever forcing the brake 2. ADJUSTMENT OF POWER BRAKE FOR
pedal and power lever apart. Check free play with MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE — After the pedal
linkage in this position by pushing lightly at the free play is adjusted properly a final check should
pad end of the brake pedal. This will give a true be made to assure maximum performance of the
free play measurement. Pedal free play should booster. Slight rotation of the adjusting cam in a
counter-clockwise direction will speed up a slow
pedal vibration. A slight adjustment of the cam in
the clockwise direction will eliminate a time delay
TO ENGINE INTAKE MANIFOLD
during a fast application.
TO BELLOWS UNIT
NOTE
Rotation of cam adjusting screw should be

90° about original setting.
SPONGY PEDAL
VACUUM RESERVOIR — S6Pí3O When the brake pedal, while being depressed,
feels like it is pushing against a "cushion/' the
Figure 68 — Vacuum Reserve Tank condition is generally termed "spongy pedal."
MyMopar.com
J. AIR—Check for air in lines. Air can enter GRABBING BRAKES

system through a leak when brake fluid is low in
the master cylinder reservoir, or when any part J. ADJUSTMENT—Check for improper adjust-
of system has been disconnected. Air may be left ment of brake shoe cams.
in the system, if the bleeding operation is not prop- 2. BRAKE LINING — Inspect linings. If brake
erly performed; or air bubbles may develop in a fluid, oil or grease, has contacted the linings, the
tightly sealed system when an inferior type brake brake may "take hold" prematurely. If the lining
fluid is used. has become soaked with brake fluid, oil or grease,
2. HEEL CONTACT—Heavy heel contact may it may slip, giving the effect of a grabbing brake
cause a "spongy pedal" on light brake application. on the opposite wheel.
3. BRAKE DRUM—inspect for scoring, cracks, or

DRAGGING BRAKES an out-of-round condition. If one of these condi-
The major causes of dragging brakes are: Too tions exists, grabbing may occur when brakes
tight an adjustment of brake shoes, or the failure are applied.
of brake shoes to return to their released positions.
4. ANCHOR PINS—Inspect fit of brake shoes on
J. AD]USTMENT—Perform a major brake ad- anchor pins. Looseness at this point will cause
justment to be sure the brake shoe cams and heavy toe contact and may result in grabbing
anchors are correctly positioned. brakes.
2. BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRINGS—Check for

weak return springs. Remove old spring and com- PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR BOARD
pare its length with that of new spring. If no braking action results when the brake
3. MASTER CYLINDER—Remove the filler plug pedal is pushed all the way to the floor board and
and check the relief port with a tag wire to be sure pressure cannot be built up by pumping the pedal
it is not partially blocked. A swollen primary cup, several times, the following causes may be
incorrect pedal free play, scoring or rust between responsible.
the piston and the piston stop, may also partially
J. BRAKE FLUID—Check the brake fluid level in
restrict the return of fluid to the master cylinder
the master cylinder reservoir. Loss of brake fluid
reservoir.
due to leakage is the most likely cause of this
4. WHEEL CYLINDERS—Check for swollen cups condition. Inspect all connections and flexible
which can slow up the return of the pistons. Check hose. Check wheel cylinder rubber cups for scor-
the inside of the wheel cylinders for scoring or ing or damage.
corrosion.
2. FREE PLAY—Check adjustment of push rod.
5. BRAKE HOSE—Inspect for plugging or swell- Clearance should be .015 to .030 inch between
ing which could restrict the return flow of fluid in brake pedal and pedal stop. If adjusted so that it is
the lines. shorter than normal length, the piston in the
master cylinder will not have enough travel and
LOCKED BRAKES pedal may go to floor board before pressure is
built up.
J. MASTER CYLINDER—Check relief port with
a piece of tag wire. Make sure it is free of dirt, or 3. AIR IN LINES—Check for air in system. Air
other foreign material. It may also be blocked by can enter through a leak, when brake fluid is low
a swollen primary cup, incorrect free pedal travel, in master cylinder reservoir, or any part of system
scoring or rust between the piston and piston stop. is disconnected. Air may be left in system if brake
2. FLEXIBLE HOSE — Inspect for plugging or bleeding is improperly performed or, air bubbles
swelling. This could restrict the return flow of fluid may appear in a tightly sealed system when an
in the lines. improper type brake fluid is used.
3. BRAKE SHOE ANCHORS—Check for loose 4. BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR BOARD
brake shoe anchor bolts. BUT CAN BE PUMPED UP—Look for the following
conditions:
4. BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRINGS—Check for
broken return spring. (a) Adjustment—Adjust the brake shoe cams.
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 69
(b) Master Cylinder — A scored or damaged brake support to steering knuckle bolts, brake
primary cup will not hold pressure due to leakage support to axle flange bolts, wheel cylinder cap
of fluid past the cup, and will result in the pedal screws, are properly tightened. Check fit of shoes
going to floor board slowly on a light brake on anchors.
application. 3. BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT — Inspect cam
(c) External Leakage—Inspect for leaks at wheel pins for correct height. Check straightness of brake
cylinders, all brake lines and connections. shoes and support plate.
4. LINING CONTACT—Inspect lining to deter-
HARD PEDAL mine if it is contacting the brake drum over entire
If excessive effort is required when applying the surface.
brakes, the condition is usually referred to as 5. BRAKE DRUMS—Inspect brake drums for evi-
"hard pedal." dence of heavy scoring or cracks. Determine if
J. LININGS—Inspect linings for evidence of oil, drums are out-of-round.
grease, brake fluid or a heavy glaze.
2. SHOE ADJUSTMENT—Check for proper shoe CHATTERING
adjustment, indicated by heavy heel, toe or uneven The following conditions may result in brake
contact. chatter when front wheel bearings, or front sus-
3. MASTER CYLINDER—The relief port may be pension parts, are loose.
partially restricted. To check, insert a piece of tag
J. ADJUSTMENT — Check brake shoe adjust-
wire in the relief port.
ment. The toe contact may be too heavy.
BRAKE NOISE 2. BRAKE DRUM—Inspect for an out-of-round or
J. BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT — Inspect heel cracked brake drum.
and toe clearance (cam and anchor adjustment). 3. LININGS—Inspect for oil, grease, dirt or brake
2. LOOSE PARTS—Determine if anchor bolts. fluid on linings.
CARS EQUIPPED WITH POWER BRAKE-INTEGRAL TYPE

IMPROPER PEDAL RETURN BRAKES DO NOT RELEASE PROPERLY
J. BRAKE PEDAL HUB — Width of the brake J. INSPECTION SCREW — Gasket loose or
pedal hub plus the nylon bushing flanges may damaged.
exceed the length of the pedal pivot spacer. Re-
move small amount of metal from pedal hub until 2. DUST BOOT — Dust boot retainer on air
pedal pivots freely. cleaner cover not concentric with power piston
guide sleeve. Remove power unit with rein-
2. PEDAL PIVOT SPACER — Nylon bushing forcement plate, loosen nuts on power unit mount-
width may exceed the length of the pedal pivot ing studs, retighten nuts diagonally until boot
spacer. retainer is concentric with power piston guide
sleeve.
LOSS OF FLUID
3. POWER PISTON SLEEVE — Plugged com-
J. LINE CONNECTIONS — Loose or broken con-
pensating holes.
nections in the hydraulic system.
4. RETURN SPRINGS — Broken power piston
2. RUBBER PARTS — Worn or damaged pri-
return spring, air valve control spring or reaction
mary cup, primary cup seal or dome cup.
spring.
NOTE 5. "O" RING — Excessively dry air valve "O"

ring. Replace with new "O" ring lubricated with
If heavy abrasive action has taken place due
to severe contamination of the brake fluid, in-
special silicone grease.
stall a new power piston and sleeve assembly
after thoroughly flushing the reservoir and PEDAL TRAVEL TOO GREAT
wheel cylinder lines.
Improperly adjusted brakes.
MyMopar.com
PEDAL CHATTER 2. Blocked air passage in power piston guide

sleeve assembly or in air cleaner element.
Air in brake lines or hydraulic cylinder of power
unit. 3. Power piston air seat plugged.
NOTE NOTE
When installing new boots or making push
Constant "riding" the brake pedal by the
rod adjustment, be certain that large ends of
operator will cause excessive generation of
boots are both properly installed in groove on
heat at the brake drums, resulting in exces-
air cleaner cover sleeve and that boot retain-
sive brake pedal travel and undue wear of the
ing strap is in place.
linings.
LOSS OF PEDAL
UNIT DOES NOT BOOST
Foreign material lodged between outside lip of
Test to determine if unit is operating: With the secondary cup and cylinder bore.
engine stopped, depress brake pedal several times
to eliminate all vacuum from the system. Apply BRAKES "TOUCHY" OR "GRABBY"
the brakes, and while holding foot pressure on the J. Foreign material lodged between the reaction
brake pedal, start the engine. If the unit is operat- piston and the reaction piston insert or under the
ing, the brake pedal will move forward when en- reaction piston dome cup.
gine vacuum power is added to the pedal pressure.
2. Grease, fluid or moisture on brake linings.
If the test shows unit is not operating:
SPONGY PEDAL
J. Check for bent, broken or obstructed vacuum
source line from engine manifold or a faulty check Air in brakes lines or in hydraulic cylinder of
valve. power unit.
CARS EQUIPPED WITH POWER BRAKE-BELLOWS TYPE
IMPROPER PEDAL RETURN If the test shows unit is not operating:

J. BRAKE PEDAL HOT —Width of the brake J. VACUUM TEST — Check vacuum from mani-
pedal hub plus the nylon bushing flanges may fold to tank and to booster unit. Vacuum should
exceed the length of the pedal pivot spacer. be 15 to 20 inches at engine idle speed.
Remove a small amount of metal from the pedal
2. LEAKS — Check for leak at hose connections,
hub until pedal pivots freely.
leak in reserve tank or faulty check valve.
2. PEDAL PIVOT SPACER — Nylon bushing
width may exceed the length of the pedal pivot PARTIAL LOSS OF BOOSTER
spacer.
If booster follows pedal but does not give full
3. LINKAGE — Bent or Misaligned. boost, remove inspection screw at back of unit
and install a vacuum gauge.
UNIT DOES NOT BOOST
CHECKING VACUUM — Push pedal pad until
Test to determine if unit is operating: With the pedal becomes solid. Vacuum should be at least
engine stopped, depress brake pedal several 5 to 6 inches.
times to eliminate all vacuum from the system.
Apply the brakes, and while holding foot pressure NOISE
on the brake pedal, start the engine. If the unit is
1. SCRAPING NOISE — Trigger or power lever
operating, the brake pedal will move forward
when engine vacuum power is added to the pedal bent.
pressure. 2. CLUNK OR THUD — Reduce pedal free play.
MyMopar.com
71
SECTION IV
CLUTCH
Page
1. Clutch Pedal Adjustments 71
2. Clutch Assembly 71
3. Clutch Shaft Pilot Bushing 77
4. Clutch Release Bearing 77
1. CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENTS

The clutch pedal is suspended from a bracket
mounted to the dash panel. See Figure 1. Note that CLUTCH PEDAL
RETURN SPRING
only two adjustments are provided—pedal free
play and pedal pressure.
PEDAL RETURN
OVER CENTER RUBBER STOP
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY SPRING
ADJUSTMENT
NUT
One inch pedal free play is necessary to insure
proper clearance between the release bearing
and levers.
To adjust the clutch pedal free play, turn the
clutch release fork rod adjusting nut until 3/16
inch free movement of the clutch fork outer end
is obtained. See Figure 1. This adjustment, if cor-
rectly set, will give the necessary 1 inch free play
at the pedal.
CLUTCH PEDAL
The adjustment of the clutch pedal overcenter

spring controls the amount of pedal pressure re- 55P1053
quired to release the clutch. See Figure 1. The
correct adjustment is to tighten the eye bolt sleeve Figure 1 Measuring Clutch Pedal Free Play
nut on the clutch pedal overcenter spring bolt
finger tight with the pedal in the depressed posi-
tion then tighten four complete turns.
When working on the clutch assembly always
check the clutch finger height adjustment and the
pressure plate for parallelism. Test the clutch
2. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
pressure plate springs for proper tension. Care-
Clutch service usually involves only the replace- fully inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for
ment of the disc. It is not practical to repair or evidence of burning or heat checks.
reline a disc, as there is no satisfactory method of
checking or repairing the dampener and cushion REMOVAL
springs in the disc. On the other hand, the clutch
To remove the clutch disc and clutch cover and
pressure plate assembly seldom requires replace-
pressure plate assembly, disconnect the propeller
ment. It can be adjusted and the component parts
can be replaced. (Continued on page 74)
MyMopar.com
CLUTCH
MODELS P-26 - P-28 P-27 - P-29

Borg and Beck
Clutch M o d e l s — or Borg and Beck
Auburn
Outside
Diameter 9¼ in. 10 in. std.
oí Disc 10 in. spec, equip. 11 in. spec, equip.
Number of
9¼"_B & B—6 springs
Springs in 10" B & B —9 springs
9¼" Auburn—3 springs
Pressure 11" B&B—12 springs
10" B&B—9 springs
Plate
Type Single Plate—Dry—Ventilated
Clutch housing to cylinder block screws 30 to 35 lbs.

Clutch cover assembly to flywheel screws 15 to 20 lbs.
SPRSNG
COVER EYE BOLT ASSEMBLY
SPRING
DISC ASSEMBLY
>TRUT
NUT
Figure 2 —Borg & Beck Clutch (9¼ inch) Disassembled

MyMopar.com
CLUTCH 73
COVER
IYIBOLT
LEVER RELEASE
SPRING LEVER
\
DRIVEN DISC
PRESSURE PLATE
PIVOT PIN
DRIVE LUG
OPENING
45x450
Figure 3—Borg & Beck Clutch (10 inch) Disassembled
DISC ASSEMBLY
RELEASE
LEVER PIN
RELEASE
LEVER
ADJUSTING
SCREW
ß AND LOCK NUT ¦
55P1152
Figure 4 — Auburn Clutch (9¼ inch) Disassembled

MyMopar.com
2. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY—REMOVAL
(Continued from page 71)
shaft, speedometer cable, parking brake cable,

and gear shift control rods. Then remove the
transmission.
When removing the transmission pull it straight
back until the pinion shaft clears the clutch disc,
before lowering the transmission. This will avoid
bending the clutch disc. Remove the clutch cover
pan. Mark the clutch cover and flywheel so that
they can be installed in their original position to
maintain balance.
CLUTCH DISC
Figure 5 — Punch Marks on Clutch Cover
Carefully inspect the clutch disc for worn or and Flywheel
loose lining, broken cushion springs, distortions,
or evidence of oil or grease on the facing. If grease
or oil are present discard the disc. Locate the
source of the oil or grease leak and correct it.
CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
Inspect the rear main bearing oil seals and front
of transmission for evidence of oil leakage. CLUTCH COVER
DISASSEMBLY (BORG AND BECK CLUTCH)

Mark the cover and pressure plate with a punch
(Figure 5) so that they can be assembled in their
original positions in order to maintain balance.
With the assembly on fixture C-585, See Figure
6, install the three-legged spider over the center
screw, so that it rests directly against the top of
the clutch cover. Install the plain thrust washer 45 x 452
and hexagon compression nut. Turn down the nut
to compress the springs.
Figure 6 — Clutch Cover and Pressure Plate
With the springs under compression, remove the Assembly in Fixture C-585
clutch release lever eye bolt nuts and slowly
relieve the spring pressure by unscrewing the
compression nut. Then, lift off the cover.
To remove a release lever, grip the lever and
eye bolt between the thumb and fingers so that
the flat side of the lever and the open end of the
eye bolt are close together. Also, keep the eye
bolt pin seated in the socket in the lever. See Fig-
ure 7.
The strut can then be lifted over the ridge on
the end of the lever, making it possible to lift the
lever and eye bolt off the pressure plate.
DISASSEMBLY (AUBURN CLUTCH)

Adaptors are available for use with fixture
C-585 for this operation. 34x97
First, place the cover support plate, C-585¯33, Figure 7 — Removing or Installing Release Lever
MyMopar.com
CLUTCH 75
CLUTCH PRESSURE SPRINGS

Clutch Assembly Number of Springs Spring Pressure
Type Model Number and Identification and Checking Height
9¼ in. Auburn* 100052-2 3 dark blue springs 254 to 280 lbs. @ l ¼ 6 i n .
9¼ in. Borg & Beck 1373 3 black springs 223 to 237 lbs. @ l ½ i n .
3 white springs 239to251 lbs. @ l ½ i n .
10 in. Borg & Beck 1368 9 dark blue springs 183 to 197 lbs. @ l!¾ein.
11 in. Borg & Beck 929 12 springs—6 purple 130tol401bs.@liy 1 6 in.

6 plain 150 to 160 lbs. @ l i ‰ in.
'Works through clutch fingers with a mechanical advantage of 1.96 to 1.
COVER SUPPORT PLATE

over the main screw of the fixture. Then install the
1 COMPRESSION NUT
clutch cover assembly on fixture C¯585. See Figure
8. Mark cover and pressure plate with punch and PLATE RETURN SPRING
install compression washer C¯585-36 and fully `\ WASHER

`v \ ADJUSTING SCREW
compress the fingers. Remove adjusting screw,
washer and plate return spring. Place a ¼ inch
steel block, C-585-32, under outer end of each
finger. Back off the compression nut slowly until
the release levers rise and contact the steel blocks.
Remove the nut and compression washer. Then
lift off the cover.
To remove a pressure spring, force each release
lever downward by hand, take out the block and
"PUNCH MARKS
release the finger slowly. 55H177
To remove the release levers from the cover, Figure 8 — Disassembling Auburn Clutch in
Fixture C-585
grind off one end of the pin and drive out the pin.
INSPECTION
If the pressure plate is scored or warped, it

should be replaced. If any other parts are dam-
aged or indicate excessive wear, they should be
replaced. Check the pressure plate springs (Figure
9) for correct pressure with special tool C-647.
Refer to chart for the correct spring pressures at
the indicated checking height.
On the Auburn clutch, inspect the pressure plate
return springs by comparing with a new spring.
If springs appear to be weak, install new springs.
ASSEMBLY (BORG AND BECK CLUTCH)
Place the pressure plate on the base of the

18 x 2O7
clutch fixture. Hold the threaded end of the eye
bolt between the thumb and the index finger, with Figure 9 — Testing Clutch Pressure Spring Tool
the lever end resting on the second finger. See Shown in No. C-647
MyMopar.com
CHART OF CLUTCH FIXTURE SPACERS

SELF WASHER COMPRESSION NUT
ALIGNING
AND FEELER GAUGES
COMPRESSION
WASHER WASHER
HOUSING Clutch Assembly Fixture C-585
CLAMP
Model Number Size Spacer Number
Auburn 100052-2 9¼ in. 20
Borg and Beck 1373 9¼ in. 20

ADJUSTING FEELER
Borg and Beck 1368 10 in. 44
Borg and Beck 929 11 in. 21
Figure 10 — Adjusting Clutch Release Levers

and adjusting screws in the pressure plate. Re-
(Borg and Beck)
lease the fixture compression nut slowly and in-
Fixture shown is C-585
stall the pressure plate return springs.
Figure 10. Insert the strut upward and tilting it at NOTE

the same time, it will pass over the ridge on the
lower end of the lever, and drop into the groove Do not lubricate parts of the dutch pressure
in the lever. plates assembly with ordinary oil or grease.
Use a suitable lubricant such as Lubriplate on
Position the release lever springs and place the drive lugs and fingers.
pressure springs over the bosses on the pressure
plate. Place the clutch cover over the pressure
plate assembly and match up the punch marks so
CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER ADJUSTMENT
these parts will be in their original positions. In-
¢BORG AND BECK)
stall the correct thickness spacer on the center
screw of the fixture. See Chart on this page. Install Place the correct thickness spacer on the center
the compression plate, self-aligning washer, thrust screw of the fixture. Refer to Chart on this page for
washer and the compression nut on the center spacer thickness. Install the compression plate,
screw. Make sure the pressure springs are seated the self-aligning washer, the plain thrust washer
in the embossed seats of the cover. Tighten the and the compression nut. Tighten nut until the
compression nut on the fixture and install the levers are fully compressed. Install clutch housing
release lever eye bolt nuts. clamps over the bolt holes and tighten them
securely. Adjust the release levers until each of
ASSEMBLY (AUBURN CLUTCH) the feeler gauges has the same slight "drag" or
"feel" when pushed in and out. Tighten release
Assemble the levers to the cover and peen over lever nuts to decrease "drag" and loosen to in-
the ends of the lever pins. Install the pressure crease "drag."
spring between the lever and the cover. Make sure
the springs rest on the bosses of the cover and are Recheck release lever adjustment to make cer-
seated in the embossed seats of the levers. Press tain each one is adjusted properly. Stake the
down on the release lever and then insert steel release lever nuts. See Figure 10.
blocks under the outer ends of the levers. Place
the pressure plate on the fixture and place the
cover assembly over the pressure plate. Match up IMPORTANT
the punch marks so the parts are in their original When removing the clutch cover assembly
positions. Place the number 20 spacer on the cen- from the fixture, loosen the housing clamps
ter screw of the fixture. Install the compression first, and then remove the compression nut.
plate, self-aligning washer, thrust washer and the This procedure will avoid imposing unequal
compression nut on the center screw. Tighten the strain on the release levers.
compression nut on the fixture. Install the washers
MyMopar.com
CLUTCH 77
CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER ADJUSTMENT (AUBURN)

WASHER COMPRESSION NUT
Install clutch cover plate assembly on fixture
and make certain that the housing clamps line up SELF ALIGNING COMPRESSION
WASHER WASHER
with the holes. Assemble the Number 20 thickness HOUSING
spacer on the center screw. Install the compression CLAMP
washer, the self-aligning washer, and the compres-
sion nut and tighten nut until the release levers are
completely compressed. Install clutch housing
clamps and tighten securely. Adjust clutch release
levers until each of the three feeler gauges has the
same slight "drag" or "feel/' when being pushed ADJUSTING FEELER
in and out. Tighten the release lever screws to
decrease "drag" or loosen them to increase
"drag." Then re-check the adjustment of each lever
to make certain the adjustment is correct and
tighten lock nuts. See Figure 11. Figure 11 — Adjusting Clutch Release Levers
(Auburn)
INSTALLATION OF CLUTCH
Apply a small amount of short fiber grease in
the clutch shaft pilot bushing. Clean the surfaces
of the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly.
Then, hold the clutch cover plate and disc assem-
bly in place (driven disc is to be installed with
long part of hub on the side away from the fly-
wheel). Insert clutch disc aligning arbor, C-360,
through the hub of the driving disc into the pilot
bushing in the crankshaft. See Figure 12.
Line up the punch marks on the cover and fly-
wheel. Bolt the cover plate loosely on the flywheel
so that these parts are lined up in their original
positions. To avoid distortion of clutch cover,
tighten each bolt a few turns in progression until
they are all tight. Tighten bolts from 30 to 35 foot Figure 1 2 — Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor
pounds.
When installing the transmission, care must be
taken not to "dish" or bend the clutch disc. Sup- INSTALLATION
port the transmission so that the drive pinion can When installing a new pilot bushing, slide over
be guided through the clutch disc. After installa- the pilot of tool C-3181 and drive into place with
tion, tighten the transmission to clutch housing a soft hammer. This causes the bushing to tighten
screws from 45 to 50 foot pounds. Then, adjust up on the pilot. Install the cup and puller nut and
clutch pedal free travel. tighten, removing the tool from the bushing. This
action burnishes the bushing to correct size.
3. CLUTCH SHAFT PILOT BUSHING Lubricate the bushing (Figure 13) with about a
half-teaspoon of short fiber grease. Insert the
REMOVAL grease in the bushing, not on the end of the clutch
shaft.
The use of tool C-3185 will facilitate the removal
of worn or scored pilot bushings.
To remove a pilot bushing, screw the tapered 4. CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
pilot of the tool into the bushing, allowing the Exercise care when installing a new clutch re-
pilot to cut its own threads until a solid grip is lease bearing to avoid damaging the bearing race.
obtained. Insert the puller screw and rotate, forc- Never drive the bearing on the sleeve with a
ing the bushing out of the crankshaft. hammer.
MyMopar.com
New bearing
Oìd bearing
45 x 456
Figure 13 — Lubricating Pilot Bushing

Note: Be sure the clutch pressure plate (1) and the fly-
wheel face (2) are perfectly clean. Insert about ½ tea- Figure 14 — Installing Clutch Release Bearing
spoonful Short Fiber Grease in pilot bushing (3).
1. CLUTCH DISC—Inspect for oil or grease on

Installation can be accomplished by placing the facings. Before replacing disc, determine the
front sides of the old and new bearings together source of the leak. Oil may come from a leaky
and aligning them against the release bearing rear main bearing, the transmission, or from use
sleeve. of excessive lubricant in the pilot bushing.
Then place the bearings and sleeve in a vise 2. PRESSURE PLATE — Inspect for a cocked
and press the new bearing on the sleeve. See Fig- pressure plate. If the pressure plate does not meet
ure 14. Turn the bearings as they are pressed the disc evenly, chatter may result. If the clutch
together. The new bearing must be flush with the release levers are not adjusted properly, the pres-
shoulder of the release bearing sleeve. sure plate will not meet the disc evenly.
5. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES DRAGGING
SLIPPING This condition exists when the clutch is slow

in disengaging, or will not completely release.
To test for a slipping clutch, start the engine, set When this occurs, the gears may be difficult to
the hand brake and shift into high gear. Then, shift without clashing.
release the clutch pedal and accelerate the engine
slowly. The engine should stall immediately if the 1. PEDAL FREE PLAY— Inspect for excessive
clutch is not slipping. pedal free play which might prevent the clutch
from releasing completely.
1. PEDAL FREE PLAY—Inspect for insufficient
pedal free play, which may prevent the clutch 2. CLUTCH DISC—Inspect for a bent clutch disc.
from engaging completely. If the disc is bent, it will not be parallel with fly-
wheel and pressure plate, and disengagement will
2. CLUTCH DISC—Inspect for burned, worn, or not be complete.
oil soaked clutch disc facings.
3. CLUTCH RELEASE LEVERS—Inspect adjust-
3. PRESSURE PLATE SPRINGS — Inspect for ment of clutch release levers. Disengagement may
weak or broken pressure plate springs. Test each be uneven and cause the clutch to drag if release
old spring for weakness. If the paint on a spring levers are improperly adjusted.
is burnt or coils are too close together, the spring
is probably weak. 4. CLUTCH DISC HUB—Make sure clutch disc
hub does not bind on the drive pinion shaft. If it
CHATTERING does bind, a dragging condition may be created.
This condition can be determined by vibration 5. RETURN SPRINGS (AUBURN) — Inspect for
that may occur during clutch engagement. broken or weak return springs.
MyMopar.com
CLUTCH 79
PEDAL STIFF OR BINDING mission in GEAR, and the clutch pedal down, may
indicate that the pilot bushing is tight, worn or dry.
1. CLUTCH LINKAGE—Inspect clutch linkage The noise is usually more evident in low or second
for rust or corrosion. Inspect for bent or misaligned gear than it is in high gear.
linkage or a bent bell crank.
4. CLUTCH DISC—It a metallic grinding noise,
2. OVERCENTER SPRING — Check adjustment similar to a rear axle gear or bearing noise, is
of free play and overcenter spring if clutch pedal heard, it may be caused by improper functioning
is hard to operate, or the pedal will not return of the clutch disc damper unit, and the disc should
properly. be replaced. This noise is usually evident when
the car is accelerated from 25 to 30 MPH, or when
NOISES decelerated from 50 to 35 MPH.
J. RELEASE BEARING —A high-pitched noise, 5. PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY—If a whining
occurring only with the engine running, the trans- noise is heard when the engine is accelerated and
mission in NEUTRAL, and the clutch pedal down, the clutch disengaged (pedal down), it may be due
usually indicates that the release bearing should to excessive clearance between the pressure plate
be replaced. lugs and the openings in the stamped cover.
2. RELEASE LEVERS—A rattling noise may de- If a squeaky noise is heard while the clutch
velop when an uneven release lever causes the pedal is being operated, it may be due to the pres-
release bearing to shuffle on its sleeve. sure plate release levers, or the drive lugs rubbing
on the cover. Work Lubriplate between the clutch
3. PILOT BUSHING—A high-pitched noise, oc- cover and the drive lugs using feeler stock.
curring only with the engine running, the trans-
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM
P-29 P-29
Models P-26 P-28 P-27
270 cu. in. 277 cu. in.
Cooling System Type Pressure-Vent

Radiator Relief Pressure 7 p.s·i. (Standard)
14 p.s·i. (Models with Air Conditioning)
Radiator Core Type Cellular (Standard)
Fin and Tube (P-29 with Air Conditioning)
Type Centrifugal
Bushings or Bearings Oilite Bronze Bushings Ball Bearing
f Front Bushing—Burnish to
Note: Late Model P-27—Ball Bearing
.595 to .596 in.
Assembly
11
—
Rear Bearing—Burnish to .6704 to .6714 in. —
Shaft End Play .0005 to .005 in. (.003 pref.) —
Bypass Recirculation Internal (except P-29-277 cu. in. engine)
External (P-29-277 cu. in. engine)
Lower—Type Moulded Curved Rubber
Is Lower—Inside Dia. 1.5 in.

Radi
HOÍ
Upper—Type Moulded Curved Rubber

Upper—Inside Dia. 1.8 in.
Cooling Capacity—Quarts 14 w/heater 20 w/heater 21 w/heater
13 w/o heater 19 w/o heater 20 w/o heater
Thermostat—Starts to Open 160° F. 155° F. 160° F. 155° F.
Thermostat—Fully Open 195° F. 185° F. 195° F. 185° F.
Number of Blades and Spacing Six—50°, 54°, 76° Four—76° and 104°
Fan
Diameter 17 in. 18 in.

Ratio—Fan to Crankshaft R.P.M. .90 to 1 .95 to 1
Thermostat Type Choke, Bellows actuated
Choke, Pellet actuated (with Air Conditioning on P-29)
Fan to Hub Cap Screws 10—15 ft. lbs.

Pump Body to Engine Block 25—30 ft. lbs.
Pump Housing to Engine Block 30—35 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
81
SECTION V
COOLING SYSTEM
Page
1. Pressure System 81
2. Cleaning the Cooling System 81
3. Anti-Freeze Solutions 83
4. Fan Belt 83
5. Thermostat 85
6. Water Distributor Tube 87
7. Water Pump—Bushing Type 87
8. Water Pump—Ball Bearing Type 90
9. Temperature Gauge 92
1. PRESSURE SYSTEM
The radiator is equipped with a 7 lb. pres-
sure vent type radiator cap. See Figure 1. Cars
equipped with air conditioning use a 14 p.s.i.
pressure cap.
_ , _ GASKET
Under severe driving conditions, such as high- VALVE
load hill climbing, heavy traffic conditions, stop
and go driving and high altitude driving where
temperatures are above 100 degrees Fahrenheit,
the gauge will read near the hot mark. The
pressure cap is designed to operate only under RADIATOR F¡LLER
abnormally high temperatures. Under normal OPENING
OVERFLOW
conditions, no pressure is built up within the TUBE
radiator, thus prolonging the life of the cooling 45 x 1017
system.
Figure 1 — Radiator Pressure Cap
When removing the pressure cap, turn the cap
counter-clockwise to stop. This will release built-up
pressure through the overflow tube. To remove
cap after pressure has been released, press down
and continue to turn cap counter-clockwise. The Reverse flushing will loosen and remove depos-
coolant level should be 2 inches from the top of its of rust, scale and sediment more thoroughly
filler neck at normal engine operating temperature. than ordinary flushing. Reverse flushing of the
cooling system is accomplished by forcing air
2. CLEANING THE COOLING SYSTEM and water through the system in the direction
Large deposits of rust, scale and sediment can opposite that of the normal flow of water in the
be prevented from forming in the cooling system system.
by the occasional use of a reputable cooling sys- Keep the radiator core openings clean so that
tem cleaner. In areas where the water contains a
high percentage of minerals, the cooling system air can pass through the openings unobstructed.
should be cleaned at regular intervals; otherwise, Use an air hose on the back side of the core to
it may be necessary to remove the top or bottom blow out dead bugs, leaves and other particles of
tanks of the radiator to clean the core. dirt that stick to the outer surface of the core.
MyMopar.com
USE OF COOLING SYSTEM CLEANER

A high quality cooling system cleaner chemical- FLUSHING
GUN
ly loosens, dissolves, and removes rust and scale
that forms in most cooling systems. The cleaner
is harmless to the cooling system provided it is
used in accordance with directions on the con-
tainer.
After the engine has been operated the required
length of time with temperature around 200 de-
grees Fahrenheit, drain the cooling system imme-
diately before the loosened sediment has a chance
to settle. Be sure to open the drain cock on the left
side of 6 cylinder engines. On 8 cylinder engines
open both drain cocks on the left and right side
of the cylinder block.
Figure 3 — Reverse Flushing Cylinder Block
In some instances it may be necessary to repeat
the cleaning operation. In unusual cases where
systems are badly plugged, it will be necessary
to reverse flush the radiator core and cylinder sediment and scale. A pulsating water flow will
block. loosen sediment faster than a steady flow.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR

CAUTION
Drain radiator and disconnect hose from radia-
tor inlet. Connect a long section of drain hose to Use of excessive water or air pressure may
the radiator inlet pipe. See Figure 2. The hose damage the core when using the flushing gun,
should be long enough to extend outside the en- so be certain that water will flow through core
gine compartment to allow water and sediment before applying air pressure.
to drain without spilling on the engine or other
parts of the car.
Disconnect the radiator outlet hose from water REVERSE FLUSHING CYLINDER BLOCK
pump and insert flushing gun in hose. First make
If the cylinder block is badly clogged with rust
sure water will flow through radiator, then apply
and scale, the water distributor tube (used on
normal water pressure. When it is known water
will flow through the core, apply air pressure in PowerFlow 6 engines only) should be removed
short bursts into the water stream to help remove before reverse flushing the block. If the tube is not
removed, the sediment in the block may plug the
tube or its slots which direct the flow of water
toward the valve ports. On older cars, it may be
advisable to remove the core hole plugs to permit
thorough cleaning of the block. Core hole plugs are
located on left side of PowerFlow 6 engines and
on both the left and right side of HyFire V-8
engines.
To reverse flush the cylinder block, remove the
thermostat and connect a piece of hose, long
enough to extend beyond the engine compart-
ment, to the water pump inlet. Connect the radi-
ator inlet hose to the thermostat housing and in-
sert the flushing gun. See Figure 3. Force the water
and air pressure through the block until water
runs clean. Remove the flushing gun from the
radiator inlet hose and insert it in the water pump
Figure 2 - Reverse Flushing Radiator with inlet. Flush the block in the direction coolant
Flushing Gun C-3514 normally flows.
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 83
USE OF RUST RESISTOR TESTING ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTIONS
The use of rust resistor helps prevent the for- The freezing point of anti-freeze solution in the
mation of rust and scale in the cooling system. cooling system can be determined with a hydrom-
After the cooling system is cleaned, add one pint eter. Always test the solution at the temperature
of a reputable rust resistor to the system, unless for which the hydrometer is calibrated, and use a
an anti-freeze solution containing a rust inhibitor hydrometer of the type that will accurately test
is being used. the particular type anti-freeze solution used.
It is good practice to feel the inside of the radia-
tor filler neck and inside the radiator top tank for
evidence of the formation of scum or rusty par- CAUTION
ticles, and if so, clean the system and fill with Never add water or anti-freeze solution to
fresh water and rust resistor. an overheated cooling system.
3. ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTIONS
During cold weather when atmospheric tem- 4. FAN BELT
peratures fall below freezing (32° F.)„ the cooling Correct belt tension is important to the proper
system should be protected with a reputable brand operation of belt driven units. This is especially
compounded from denatured alcohol, methanol true on cars equipped with power steering or air
(synthetic wood alcohol) or ethylene glycol. conditioning. A slipping belt due to looseness or
grease will cause premature wear of the belt and
reduce the efficiency of the driven units. Over-
tightening belts will put too great a load on bush-
CAUTION ings or bearing.
Two methods can be employed to obtain correct
Anti-freeze solutions containing sodium
belt tension. One method is to use a torque wrench
chloride (common table salt), calcium chloride,
and special generator and idler pulley tools. Fig-
magnesium chloride, or any inorganic salt,
should never be used as an anti-freeze. Water
ure 7 is a drawing giving the dimensions of the
soluble organic products, such as, sugar,
idler pulley tool. It is used on 1955 Hy-Fire V-8
honey, or glucose, or any organic crystalline
engines equipped with power steering and 1956
compounds, are not recommended. Mineral
models with air conditioning. The second method
oils, such as kerosene, or engine oil, may dam-
is to use a straight edge and normal thumb pres-
age rubber parts and therefore prove harmful.
sure to obtain a belt deflection reading.
Before an anti-freeze solution of any type is

added to the cooling system, drain and flush the
entire system. Replace deterioriated hose and be
sure all hose connections are tight. Inspect for
possible leakage of cylinder head gasket, outlet
elbow gasket and heater connections. If rust or
scale is present, reverse flush the cooling system,
using a reputable cooling system cleaner.
An alcohol type anti-freeze solution is subject to
evaporation. When used in the cooling system,
check the solution periodically. If an alcohol-base
liquid is spilled on the finish of the car, the finish
may become damaged, unless it is washed off
immediately with a generous amount of water. Do
not use a high temperature thermostat (180° F.) with Figure 4 — Adjusting Belt Tension with Torque
an alcohol-base anti-freeze solution. Wrench and Generator Tool
MyMopar.com
BELT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Torque Specifications
Models Deflection Measurement
New Belt Old Belt
Standard ½ inch—between Generator 22 ft. lbs. 12 ft. lbs.

and Water Pump
With Power ½ inch—between Generator 45 ft. lbs. 27 ft. lbs.
Hy-Fire V-8
Steering and Water Pump *3O ft. lbs. *2O ft. lbs.
¼ inch—between Idler and 39 ft. lbs. 23 ft. lbs.
Water Pump
With Air ½ inch—between Generator 30 ft. lbs. 20 ft. lbs.
Conditioning and Compressor
¼ inch—between Idler and 39 ft. lbs. 23 ft. lbs.
Water Pump
| PowerFlow
Standard ¼ inch—between Generator 20 ft. lbs. 15 ft. lbs.

and Water Pump
With Power ¼ inch—between Generator 20 ft. lbs. 15 ft. lbs.
Steering and Water Pump
*NOTE: 1956 Models
J. TORQUE WRENCH METHOD — Loosen the 2. STRAIGHT EDGE METHOD — To check belt
generator bracket bolts and install the generator tension, place a straight edge on the belt between
belt tool C-3379 and torque wrench C-3005. See the generator pulley and fan pulley. Apply normal
Figure 4. Tighten belt to specified torque as shown thumb pressure at the center of the belt and meas-
in Belt Tightening Specifications. Use the idler ure the deflection. See Figure 6. Refer to Belt
belt tool to obtain correct tension on the idler pul- Tightening Specifications Chart for correct deflec-
ley belt on Hy-Fire V-8 engines with power steer- tion. Check the tension on the idler pulley belt in
ing. See Figure 5. the same manner.
1/2 INCH DEFLECTION FROM

STRAIGHT LINE BETWEEN
100 FT.-LB. PULLEYS
TORQUE WRENCH
IDLER PULLEY
TOOL
ADJUSTING
STRAP BOLT
54x352
Figure 5 — Adjusting Belt Tension with Torque Figure 6 — Checking Belt Tension with
Wrench and Idler Pulley Tool Straight Edge
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 85
MUST FIT S N U G
they do not contact the bottom of the pail. Heat
OVER Y2" SQUARE REFERENCE the water and record the temperature at which the
POINT thermostat begins to open. Continue heating and
record temperature at which thermostat is fully
open. See Cooling System Data and Specifications
on Page 80. The bellows actuated thermostat is
fully open when approximately ‰ inch off its
seat. See Figure 8. The pellet actuated thermostat
is fully open when the valve is open approximately
¾" R.
V R· ½ inch. See Figure 8.
NOTE
USE Y4" STOCK Bellows Type Thermostat
55P1081
The thermostat is seldom responsible for

Figure 7 — Special Idler Pulley Tool overheating. The bellows are sealed under
vacuum and when punctured, will immediately
open, raising the valve off its seat. If the engine
coolant is frozen or some other condition has
5. THERMOSTAT
caused overheating, damaging the thermostat,
A choke type, bellows actuated thermostat is the bellows will stay in the expanded position
used on 1955 and 1956 models. A choke type, —wide open. When this condition occurs, the
pellet actuated thermostat is used on 1956 models engine will not warm up quickly, or warm up
with air conditioning. Refer to Figure 8. A special to the proper operating temperature, during
high temperature thermostat that starts to open at cold weather.
about 180 degrees Fahrenheit is available from
the Chrysler Corporation Parts Division for use in
extremely cold climates where more heat is desir- PELLET TYPE THERMOSTAT
able for operation of water type heaters. The high The pellet contains a paste mixture. As the pellet
temperature thermostat should not be used with absorbs heat, the paste liquefies and increases in
alcohol type anti-freeze solutions. When installing
volume. This expansion moves the piston up which
a thermostat always use a new water outlet elbow
in turn opens the valve against the tension of the
gasket.
springs.
TESTING THERMOSTAT
If there is evidence of overheating, carefully
To test the thermostat, suspend the unit and a inspect the pellet for leakage and test the thermo-
reliable thermometer in a pail of water so that stat for proper operation.
VALVE VALVE
BELLOWS
BELLOWS TYPE JACKET BELLOWS TYPE PELLET TYPE
-POWERFLOW 6 -HY~FIRE V8 -HY-FIRE V8 56P133
Figure 8 — Thermostats used on Plymouth Cars

MyMopar.com
/ F A N PULLEY HUB
SHAFT THRUST WASHER
SHAFT FRONT Fì?ONT BUSHING

P+ LUBRICANT FITTING
BUSHING
HUB
RETAINING
PIN
THRUST WASHER
ƒ #
THRUST WASHER
BUSHING RETAINING PiN
G%fÅbt R£~A`\ HO VVÀSHE?
LUBRICANT FITTING SEAL RETAINING WASHER <-``-;*f
SHAFT GREASE RETAINING WASHEÍ? SHAFT AND IMPELtES"

/
SEAL RETAINER WASHER LOCK RING /
SEAL RETAINER WASHER BODY COVER PLATE ¯

GASKFT —
51x616A 5Ì×253Ä
Figure 9 — PowerFlow 6 Water Pump—Disassembled Figure 10 —Hy-F¡re V-8 Water Pump — Disassembled Bushing Type
(241 and 260 cu. in. engine)
PUMP BODY HUB

HUB
PUMP BODY
GASKET
GASKET / SHAFT W/BEARING SHAFT w/ßEAR!NG
THROWN
IE*.
WASHFR Í‰~'
SPRING
\l USED ON EARLY
\ RING `` MODELS ONLY
A: SEAL (SERVICED ! N PACKAGE!
"– IMPELLER SEAL (SERVICED !N PACKAGE)
iMPELLER
56P139 56PI40
Figure 11 - Hy-F¡re V-8 Water Pump - Disassembled Ball Bearing Figure 12 — Hy¯F¡re V¯8 Water Pump — Disassembled Ball Bearing Type
Type (260 and 270 cu. in. engine) (277 cu. in. engine)
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 87
TOOL C-412
15 x 461 51x254
Figure 13 — Removing Water Distribution Tube Figure 15 — Removing Fan Pulley Hub
6. WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE to Figure 9 or Figure 10. On PowerFlow 6 engines,

remove the body cover plate and gasket.
The water distribution tube, used only on Power-
Flow 6 engines, should be replaced whenever the Use puller C-412 to remove hub. See Figure 15.
engine is completely overhauled. If the tube Remove shaft and impeller. Drive front bushing
becomes rusted or corroded, overheating of the retaining pin into shaft hole. Use tool C-373 (Power-
engine may occur due to failure of the water to Flow 6) or tool C-3208 (Hy-Fire V-8) to remove front
circulate properly through the cylinder block. and rear bushing and thrust washer. See Figures
14 and 16.
To replace the tube, remove the radiator core
and water pump. Pull the tube out of the cylinder 1956 PowerFlow 6 engines use a plastic impeller.
block with a stiff hooked rod. See Figure 13. Install If a new impeller is required, break the plastic
tube with slots up and be sure the tube is inserted away from the insert and remove with tool C-3476.
far enough into block so that water pump will seat See Figure 26. When installing impeller, press
properly against the block. only on the insert part of the impeller.
INSPECTION
7. WATER PUMP-BUSHING TYPE
Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent
To disassemble the water pump, first drive the
and inspect for evidence of wear or scoring. Al-
fan pulley hub retaining pin out of the hub. Refer
ways install a new seal and retaining washer.
FRONT BUSHING
TOOL C-373
PUMP BODY
REMOVING BUSHINGS
45 x 458
51x255 A
Figure 14 — Removing Front and Rear Figure 16 —Removing Front and Rear
Bushing—PowerFlow 6 Bushing — Hy-Fire V-8
MyMopar.com
REPLACING BUSHINGS
l s / 8 I N . FLAT WASHER
4$ x 459
51x257
Figure 17 — Installing Front and Rear Figure 19—Installing Front and Rear
Bushings—PowerFlow 6 Bushings - Hy-F¡re V¯8
INSTALLING BUSHINGS the pump body. See Figure 19. The use of Special
tool C-373 will install the bushing to the correct
POWERFLOW 6 — Install the impeller on the depth. Drill the front bushing with a number 13
shaft and drill a hole for the impeller pin with a drill and insert the pin. Remove any burrs from
1/8 inch drill. Peen both ends of pin after installa- the inside surfaces.
tion. If the old shaft is being used, drill a new hole
at right angles to the old hole. HY-FIRE V-8 — Slide thrust bearing against nut
on tool C-373 and then a 15/S inch flat washer.
Insert a new thrust washer in the pump body Install front bushing on tool with bearing surface
with the flat side facing toward the fan pulley toward flat washer. Install new pump thrust
hub. Press new bushings into the body from washer on tool with lugs pointing inward. Then
opposite sides with C-373. See Figure 17. Tighten install tool into front end of pump. Slide rear pump
nut on tool drawing the bushings in place until bushing on tool and install sleeve C-373-8 and nut.
the top edge of hexagon nut on the tool lines with See Figure 19. Drill front bushing with a number
the lower edge of groove in the puller screw. 13 drill and install pin. Remove any burrs from
inside surfaces. The rear bushing must be recessed
The rear bushing must be recessed a minimum
from .130 to .155 inches below surface of seal seat
of 9/64 inch below the surface of the seal seat in
in pump body. See Figure 20.
BODY
/ REAR BUSHING REAR BUSHING
BODY
/ THRUST WASHER THRUST WASHER—
/ FRONT BUSHING SLOT TOWARD REAR
7
FRONT BUSH!NG LOCK PIN- FRONT BUSHING
/ NUMBER 13 DRILL HOLE
FRONT BUSHING
LOCK P!N—
NUMBER 13 DRILL
0.6704 mg¡PS!f64»
O.¢»7I4 *
t
J 0 S96 \
6704 IIIPI
.6714 E l
• HOLE 1
1
N* \
m^^B ASSEMBLE
] ^ V THRUST ASSEMBLE FRONT
I/
f ^ ^ WASHER BUSHING WITH OIL
iÉÉÄÉÉÉìi GROOVE ON TOP AND
WITH SLOT
TOWARD REAR GROOVED END OUT
|
• WÊÊÊ - 2,B?
49 x 6 6 ! 5 5P1001..
^/
/ JJO
.155
SURFACE MUST BE FREE FROM NICKS AND
BURRS. LUBRICATE FRONT SURFACE OF THIS
BUSHING IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY
OF IMPELLER AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY.
Figure 18 —Water Pump Bushings Installed — Figure 20 — Water Pump Bushings Installed —
PowerFlow 6 Hy-F¡re V-8
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 89
REFACING SEAL SEAT

SEAT REFACER
Use tool C-3172 to reface the seal seat. Turn the
tool in an even clockwise direction until a smooth,
full cut has been taken. Do not remove any more
metal from the seat than is necessary to provide
a smooth surface. Continue to turn tool clockwise
as it's removed. This will prevent leaving a ridge
on the seat. See Figure 21.
After seat is refaced, lap the seat with emery
cloth discs SP-1527 to obtain a smooth seal seat.
Place the discs under the teeth of the refacing tool
and perform the final lapping operation by rotating
tool until all cutter marks are removed. See Figure
22.
52x325
Figure 21 — Refac¡ng Water Pump Seal Seat
NOTE
PowerFlow 6 — If tool C-373 is not avail-
able, bushings can be pressed into place with FINISHING DISC
an arbor press. Press rear bushing into bore
.130 to .155 inch beyond seat surface. Press
front bushing in far enough to obtain a read-
ing of 2.782 to 2.787 inch from rear seat face
to outer surface of bushing as shown in Fig-
ure 18.
Hy-F¡re V8 — Press rear bushing .130 inch

to .155 inch beyond seat surface. See Figure
20. Press front bushing far enough to seat
shoulder. Use suitable washer so as not to
damage the front surface of bushing when
bushing is pressed into pump body.
52x326
BURNISHING BUSHINGS
Figure 22 — Finishing Water Pump Seal Seat
Insert burnishing tool C-317 into the pump bush-
ings from the rear of the pump and install cup and
nut. Pull tool out of bushing by tightening nut. See
TOOL
Figure 23.
IMPORTANT
If the burnishing tool is not available, ream

the rear bushings from .6704 to .6714 inches
and the front bushings from .595 to .596 inches.
Exercise care when using reamer so as not

to engage the thrust washer. This may cause
damage to the bushings and thrust washer.
ASSEMBLY
Slide a new water pump seal and seal retainer 52x327

washer over impeller shaft and install the snap
ring. See Figure 24. Place the grease retainer Figure 23 — Burnishing Water Pump Shaft
washer against rear bushing and install impeller Bushings
MyMopar.com
SNAP RING GROOVE RETAINING WASHER

PUMP SEAL
8. WATER PUMP-BALL BEARING
PUMP IMPELLER TYPE
Ball bearing type water pumps were used on
later production Hy-Fire V-8 engines and are used
on all 1956 V-8 engines. The pumps on the 260 and
270 cu. in. engines are not interchangeable with the
pump used on the 277 cu. in. engine.
The bearing and shaft assembly are combined
in a single replaceable unit which is press fit into
the pump body. The shaft and bearing assembly is
prelubricated and sealed at both ends of the bear-
ing race by seal retainers. No lubrication of this
type pump is required. The assembly is serviced
51x256 as a unit. See Figures 11 and 12.
Figure 24 — Installing Pump Seal and Retaining
Washer DISASSEMBLY
FEELER GAUGE (.0005 TO .005 IN.)-
1955—The water pumps on 1955 V-8 engines use
a cast iron impeller which is press fit on the end
of the shaft. Whenever the seal or bearing and
shaft assembly is to be replaced, the impeller must
be removed. First remove the set screw or lock
wire which retains the bearing and shaft assembly
in the pump body. Early 1955 ball bearing pumps
use a set screw, later pumps use a lock wire. See
Figure 11.
Place pump in an arbor, and press on the im-
FAN
peller end of shaft to remove the impeller. Con-
PULLEY tinue pressure until bearing and shaft assembly is
HU8 out of pump body. Once these parts are removed,
they should be discarded.
51x260 1956—Water pumps on both the 270 and 277 cu.
Figure 25—Checking Clearance Between in. engines use a plastic impeller. A special puller
Front Bushing and Hub tool C-3476 is used to remove the impeller bushing.
When servicing the pump, break the impeller
assembly in pump body. Make certain that the away from the insert. Then install puller and re-
flats of the impeller shaft interlock with the lugs move the insert from the shaft. See Figure 26.
on the thrust washer when the shaft is installed.
Then press the hub on the shaft, leaving .0005 to
.005 inch (.003 preferred) clearance between the INSERT
front bushing hub for shaft end play. See Figure
25.
TOOL C-347ó
CAUTION
Be extremely careful to keep dirt and foreign
material out of the pump when it is being
reassembled. Make sure the seal seat and
retainer washer are perfectly clean, as well
as the shaft and bushing.
l
Drill a hole through the hub and shaft and install ß 56P141
a new pin. Drill Fixture C-783 can be used for this Figure 26 — Removing Impeller Insert with
operation to insure drilling a straight hole. Tool C-3476
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 91
INSPECTION
Clean the pump housing in a suitable solvent
and inspect for porosity. Check mating surface of ARBOR
pump body for parallelism. Surface should be free
of nicks or burrs.
BALL BEARING AND
SHAFT ASSEMBLY INSTALLING
REFACING SEAL SEAT
SLEEVE C-3468
Use Tool C-551 to reface the seal seat as shown
in Figure 27. Turn the tool in a continuous even
clockwise motion to obtain a smooth surface. Per-
form a final lapping operation using emery discs,
SP-1527 under the cutter teeth. Blow out all cuttings PUMP BODY
and grindings with compressed air. á
5ÓPI32
INSTALLING BEARING ASSEMBLY

Figure 28 — Installing Shaft and Bearing
The bearing and shaft assembly is held in the Assembly
pump body by a press fit. Use installing sleeve
C-3468 for this operation. See Figure 28. Start the
NOTE
bearing assembly straight in the pump body and LOCK WIRE PIN MUST NOT
PROJECT ABOVE
install the sleeve over the shaft on to the lower NOT USED ON
HUB
1956 MODELS
surface of the seal retainer. Press the bearing into
the body. Do not press the bearing to the shoulder
of the sleeve. The bearing assembly should be
pressed into the body % 4 inch as measured from
the end of the pump to the outer surface of the
seal retainer. See Figures 29 and 30.
NOTE
Do not install bearing assembly by driving IMPELLER AND HUB TO BE FLUSH
SHAFT TO BE WITH END OF SHAFT
on the sleeve or by driving on the shaft as this FLUSH 5ÓP1O9
will damage the seal retainer and also the
bearings and races.
Figure 29 — Cross-sectional View of Pump Used
on 260 and 270 Cubic Inch Engines
SHAFT AND IMPELLER

¯"`l MUST BE FLUSH
SEAL
RETAINING WASHER
BALL BEARING
AND SHAFT
ASSEMBLY
- 2 1 / 6 4 IN.
ASSEMBLE HUB TO
THIS DIMENSION
56P138 56Pl10
Figure 27—Refacing Seal Seat Using Figure 30 — Cross-sectional View of Pump Used
Tool C-551 on 277 Cubic Inch Engine
MyMopar.com
INSTALLING SEALS AND IMPELLER anti-freeze solutions will cause some discoloration
at the cylinder head gasket. This does not always
260 AND 270 CUBIC INCH ENGINES—Place seal indicate that the gasket is leaking excessively. If
and thrust washer in impeller and secure by in- there is an actual loss of coolant, indicated by fre-
stalling retaining ring in snap ring groove. Sup- quent necessity of adding water to the radiator,
port the pump on the hub end of the shaft. See and no other source of leakage can be found, the
Figure 29. Make sure that pressure is applied to the gasket should be replaced, using sealing com-
insert of the impeller during installation. Failure to pound on both sides of the gasket and on the
do this will result in a broken impeller. cylinder head cap screws. Do not use sealing
compound on the three screws that lead into the
277 CUBIC INCH ENGINES—Place thrust washer intake manifold ports on PowerFlow 6 engines.
and seal on impeller end of shaft. Support pump
on hub end of the shaft. Position impeller on shaft When tightening a cylinder head, always use a
making sure that the notches in the impeller will torque wrench. Draw the cap screws down uni-
index exactly with the engaging ears of the thrust formly tight (70 ft. lbs. on PowerFlow 6 engines and
washer. Then press on impeller, applying pressure 85 ft. lbs. on Hy-Fire V-8 engines), and in the proper
only to the insert of the impeller. Insert should be sequence, to avoid distortion of the cylinder head
flush with end of shaft. See Figure 29. and block. Always re-tighten the cylinder head
after the engine has been allowed to warm up.
INSTALLING WATER PUMP HUB
Following are other possible points of leakage
The hub on the 260 and 270 cubic inch displace- at the cylinder head:
ment engines is pinned to the shaft. The water
pump hub on 277 cubic inch engines is held to the (a) PowerFlow 6 — Core hole plug at left rear
shaft by a friction fit. end of cylinder head; accelerator bell crank stud
which extends into the cylinder head water pas-
Press hub on to dimension shown in Figure 28 or sage. Be sure copper washer is used under the
29. Use drill fixture C-783 on pinned hubs to insure stud.
a straight hole through the shaft and hub. Drive
new pin in until it is below surface of hub. (b) Hy-Fire V-8 — Cover plates at rear of right
and left cylinder head. Center bolts on each side
9. TEMPERATURE GAUGE of manifold exhaust cross over branch. The left
and right water passage branch of the water pump
The temperature gauge is an electro-magnetic housing leading to the left and right cylinder
type and consists of an engine sending unit and a heads.
panel unit connected by a single wire. For com-
plete servicing and testing data, refer to Section 3. CYLINDER BLOCK — There are several points
Xƒ 1. Instruments and Gauges. where coolant can leak from the cylinder block:
(a) PowerFlow 6 — Five core hole plugs are

10. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES used on the left side of the block, as well as the
cylinder block drain plug screwed into the water
LEAKAGE passage. A core hole plug is also used at the rear
of the block above the rear main bearing under
J. RADIATOR HEATER AND CONNECTIONS— the clutch bell housing. Another core hole plug is
Inspect all hose connections for radiator and used at the front of the block under the chain case
heater. Inspect radiator and heater cores for seep- cover plate. The water pump attaching screws
age of water. Inspect seams and soldered connec- extend into the water passage. The two long cap
tions in top and bottom tanks of radiator. Inspect screws for the intake and exhaust manifold assem-
water outlet elbow for leakage at gasket. bly (adjacent to the riser section) extend into the
Leakage of water or anti-freeze will usually water passages.
leave some trace of rust or dye from the anti-
freeze solution. (b) Hy-Fire V-8 — Three core hole plugs and a
drain pipe plug are used on the left and right sides
2. CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET — A slight of the cylinder block. Two pipe plugs are used at
amount of seepage of the dye in certain types of the rear of the engine block. Gaskets are used
MyMopar.com
COOLING SYSTEM 93
between the left and right water passage branch Another cause of a rise in engine temperature
of the water pump housing and the front of the above normal is unusual operating conditions,
engine block. such as: Overloading of the car; driving in heavy
mud or sand; operation (or excessive engine
4. WATER PUMP — Leakage of water due to idling) under extreme conditions of heat or altitude.
worn parts in the water pump is usually evident A special radiator, having additional cooling ca-
between the thrust face of the front bushing and pacity should be used for continued operation
the fan pulley hub. If the pump is leaking, it under such unusual conditions.
should be removed and reconditioned.
LOSS OF WATER IMPORTANT

(WITHOUT APPARENT LEAKAGE)
The thermostat is seldom responsible for
1. RADIATOR — Restriction of the passages in overheating. If damaged, the bellows expands
the radiator core due to sediment or rust will cause and the valve stays in the wide-open position.
the coolant level to rise when the engine is run-
ning and coolant will be lost through the overflow
tube. 1. FAN BELT — If the fan belt is loose, or slip-
ping, the water pump will not circulate coolant at
2. COMPRESSION LEAK AT CYLINDER HEAD the proper rate to cool the engine. To test fan belt
GASKET OR AIR LEAK AT SUCTION SIDE OF for tightness, place a straight-edge across fan belt
WATER PUMP — Displacement of the coolant in from generator pulley to fan belt pulley. Belt is
the radiator core and loss through the overflow properly adjusted if it can be pushed downward
tube can be caused by a compression leak at the with finger ¼ inch from straight-edge (between
cylinder head gasket or by air entering the coolant the pulleys). See Chart on Page 84.
at the suction side of the water pump.
Make sure the fan belt is in good condition. If
To determine whether either condition exists, worn, it may be stretched and slipping.
first remove the cap and apply masking tape over
the filler neck making sure that there is no air leak. 2. HOSE CONNECTIONS — Check for collapsed
Attach a hose to the overflow pipe and put the end or plugged radiator hose, causing restriction to cir-
into a pail of water. Run the engine long enough culation of coolant.
to obtain operating temperature.
3. RADIATOR — To test for clogged radiator
If bubbles appear in the water when the engine core, remove the top and bottom radiator hose and
is accelerated, loosen the fan belt so that it will insert plugs in the inlet and outlet connections. See
not drive the water pump and again accelerate Figure 31. Fill the radiator with water. Then re-
the engine for a short period of time. If air bubbles
still appear in the water, air is leaking past the
cylinder head gasket, into the cooling system.
Tighten cylinder head cap screws to specified
torque. If leakage is still evident, replace the gas-
ket and inspect the surfaces of the cylinder head
and block for small cracks.
If bubbles do not appear in the water when the

engine is accelerated with water pump inoperative,
air may be leaking into the system at the water
pump. It is possible for the connection to be tight
enough to stop a water leak, but not an air leak.
OVERHEATING
The common causes of overheating, which are
directly traceable to the cooling system, are clog-
ging, improper circulation of coolant, or running
engine when coolant level is low. Overheating
55PìO49
may also be due to incorrect ignition or valve
timing, or dragging brakes. Figure 31 —Testing for Clogged Radiator Core
MyMopar.com
move the plug from the bottom connection. If the ENGINE WARMUP—SLOW
passageways in the core are not clogged, the
If the cooling system is dirty, sediment may col-
column of escaping water should extend 5 to 6
lect in the folds of the thermostat bellows and
inches above the lower connection.
prevent the valve from seating fully. Cover the
Use an air hose on the back of the radiator core radiator and bring the engine temperature up to
to blow out dead bugs, leaves, and other particles about 180 degrees to be sure the thermostat is
open. Then continue to run the engine at a fast
of dirt that would restrict the flow of air through
speed to increase water circulation and wash out
the core.
sediment in thermostat. Drain the cooling system
4. CYLINDER BLOCK — A restricted distributor immediately and refill with clean water.
tube in PowerFlow 6 engines or passageways If the engine does not warm-up as quickly as
clogged with rust and scale will cause poor cir- it should considering the atmospheric temperature,
culation of the coolant. Remove distributor tube the thermostat may be permanently stuck in the
and reverse flush the cylinder block. open position.
GENERATOR
Models P-26 P-27 P-28 P-29
Make Auto-Lite
Model Number (Stamped on GGW-6001 GGW-6012 GJC-7OO2A-(Std.) GJC-7OOlB-(Std.)

Generator Name Plate) GJC-7003B- GJC-7OO3C-(P.S.
(W/P.S.) orP.S.&AirCond.)
GJC-7006B
(Air Cond.)
Type 6 volt-Shunt wound 12 volt-Shunt wound
Armature End Play .003 to .010 in.
Commutator Run-out .005 in.
Brush Spring Tension 35 — 53 oz. 18 — 36 oz.
Field Coil Draw 1.4 to 1.5 amps 1.2 to 1.3 amps
@ 5.0 volts @ 10 volts
Motoring Draw 4.8 to 5.3 amps 3.4 to 3.9 amps
@ 5.0 volts @ 10 volts
Output— 7.2 to 7.5 15.0
Rated Volts 45.0 30.0
Rated Amps
Minimum Rated R.P.M. to
Determine Rated Load at
Rated Voltage at 70° F. 2,540 2,050 — 2,250
Battery Voltage 6 12
Battery Terminal Grounded Positive Negative
MyMopar.com
95
SECTION VI
GENERATING SYSTEM
Page
Data and Specifications 94, 96
1. Battery 95
2. Generator 98
3. Generator Regulator 101
1. BATTERY The reading of the hy-

drometer will vary with
Before making any test on the condition of the
battery, make certain the battery and the terminal the temperature of the
posts are free of corrosion, dirt, and oxidation. This electrolyte. An ordinary
is necessary to insure the lowest possible resist- dairy thermometer may
ance for all electrical connections. be used to take electro-
lyte temperature read-
TESTING WITH HYDROMETER ings from the center cell.
The state of charge of the battery should be
checked with a hydrometer. The following read- Hydrometer floats are
ings show the state of charge (Specific Gravity): calibrated to indicate
Fully charged correctly only at one
1.275 to 1.300
Half charged fixed temperature. A hy-
1.225
Dangerously low drometer reading of a
1.150
cell with electrolyte
When reading a hydrometer, hold the barrel in above 80° F. will be less
vertical position. A sufficient amount of electrolyte than a reading with the
must be present to lift the float. Take the reading electrolyte at 80° F. The
at eye level and disregard the curvature of liquid opposite holds true
at the edges. where the temperature
CELL CONNECTOR ^ « ^ TERMINAL
of the electrolyte is be- 45x525
CASE low 80° F. See Figure 2. Figure 2 — Hydrometer
A temperature correc- Reading Correction
Chart
tion amounts to .004
specific gravity for each 10° change in tempera-
ture. See examples.
Example No. 1 Hydrometer reading 1.270

Acid temperature 20° F
Subtract .024 Sp. Gr.
Corrected Sp. Gr. is 1.246
Example No. 2 Hydrometer reading 1.255
ELEMENT REST
Acid temperature 100° F
SEDIMENT SPACE
56P142 Add. .008 Sp. Gr.
Corrected Sp. Gr. is 1.263
MyMopar.com
GENERATOR REGULATOR
MODELS P-26, P-27 P-28, P-29
Model Number (Stamped on Auto-Lite—VBE-6001-A Auto-Lite—VRX-6201-A

Regulator N a m e Plate)
Ground Polarity Positive Negative
Value of Carbon Resistors Voltage Control 28.5 to 31.5 ohms Voltage Control 55 to 70 ohms
Current Control 6.65 to 7.35 ohms Current Control 34.5 to 42 ohms
Air G a p .031 to .034 in. .031 to .034 in.

Circuit Breaker
Contact Point G a p .015 in. .015 in.
Contact Points Close at 6.3 to 6.8 volts 13 to 13.75 volts
Contact Points O p e n at 4.1 to 4.8 volts 8.2 to 9.3 volts

with 0 to 6 amp discharge
3 Air Gap .048 to .052 in. .048 to .052 in.

rent
ï Contact Point Gap .015 in. .015 in.
Air Gap .048 to .052 in. .048 to .052 in.

1 Voltage
r Contact Point Gap .015 in. .015 in.
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TESTER charged. If some cell readings are 2.0 volts and
another cell is discharged more than .5 volt, it
An open circuit voltage tester (Tool No. MT-310)
indicates a short or the electrolyte is low in that
can be used to determine the state of charge of the
cell.
battery and the condition of the battery. See
Figure 3.
BATTERY MAINTENANCE
VOLTAGE TEST Long life and efficient service can be obtained
from the battery, providing it is serviced regularly.
Connect a voltmeter from the positive post to
the negative post of the battery. Be sure the clips ELECTROLYTE—The electrolyte must be kept
or prods make a solid connection with a clean por- above the plates at all times. Only pure distilled
tion of the battery posts. water, or water that is chemically pure, and free
Under a no load condition, a fully charged bat- from sediment, should be used.
tery should read at least 6.0 or 12.0 volts (depend- Never add acid unless it is known that the acid
ing upon the number of cells, 2.0 volts per cell). If has been lost through spillage.
the reading is low, connect a voltmeter across
each individual cell. If all cells are low but have OVERCHARGING—High terminal heat result-
equal readings, the battery is low and should be ing from overcharging, will speed the corrosion of
MyMopar.com
GENERATING SYSTEM 97
the positive plate grids, and cause damage to the

separators and negative plates. In addition, the
case may become distorted and the sealing com-
pound displaced.
Excessive water evaporation may leave the
acid in concentrated form. Over a period of time
concentrated acid and high temperatures are
harmful to the wood separators and negative plate
material.
Liquid may be forced from the cells, resulting in
corrosion of cables, battery support and other vital
electrical or engine parts.
Severe warping or buckling of the positive
plates and perforations of the separators may re- 49x684
sult if the battery is overheated. This would cause Figure 3 — Battery Open — Circuit Test
an initial short circuit.
BATTERY CARRIER HOLD DOWN BOLTS
IMPORTANT
Do not tighten the battery carrier hold down
bolts more than two to three foot pounds. When the Be sure to remove the battery covers and
bolts are tightened excessively, tension on the bat- blow out any hydrogen gas which may be pres-
tery support hold down cover and frame, plus ent above the electrolyte. Flames or sparks
engine heat, will cause the battery to expand, coming in contact with this gas will cause an
forcing the sealing compound out of the sealing explosion.
walls.
COLD WEATHER CARE Use a torch and carefully heat the groove where
the sealing compound is to be poured. Do not
A battery operated in an under-charged condi- scorch the case or cover.
tion may freeze during severe winter weather. The
freezing point of the electrolyte varies with spe- The sealing compound should be quite hot—
cific gravity. A fully charged battery with 1.285 about 325° F. But, it must not be heated until it
specific gravity corrected to 80° F. will freeze at smokes. Inspect the covers and the groove where
—90° F. The following chart indicates the freezing the hot compound will be poured, and make sure
points at various readings: that the hot seal will not run into the cell.
Pour the hot seal into the groove until the proper
Specific Gravity Freezing Point of level is obtained. If the seal should sing slightly,
(Corrected to 80° F.) Battery let the first pour cool. Then, level up with more
1.285 —90° F. hot seal. Always use new sealing compound when
1.250 —62° F. resealing a battery.
1.200 —16°F. BATTERY TERMINALS
1.150 + 5°F.
1.100 Before replacing or repairing generator or gen-
+ 19° F.
erator regulator, always examine condition of bat-
BATTERY RESEALING tery terminals for evidence of corrosion. Corrosion
of the terminals results in either an open circuit or
Remove the old sealing compound from the
high resistance connections causing erratic opera-
case and covers for approximately one inch be-
tion of the generating system, as the circuit will be
yond the leak, or until the sealing compound is
completely closed at one instance and open the
forming a tight seal.
next.
Thoroughly dry the covers and all portions of Clean terminals with a terminal cleaning tool
the container where the sealing compound will
as shown in Figure 4 and Figure 5 with tool MX-75.
make contact. Since the sealing compound will
not stick to a wet or dirty surface, special care After cleaning, connect cable clamps to battery
should be taken in cleaning to assure a clean, dry posts and tighten securely, then coat connections
surface. with grease to retard corrosion.
MyMopar.com
Figure 4 — Cleaning Inside of Cable Clamp Figure 5 — Cleaning Outside of Battery Post
ator to ground. When the jumper wire from the

NOTE field terminal is grounded, the armature should
If the positive battery terminal is equipped "motor" or rotate slowly. If the armature does not
with a felt washer, soak the washer in medium motor, disassemble the generator for further in-
engine oil. Squeeze excess oil out before inspection.
stalling over terminal.
INSPECTION AND BENCH TESTS
Disassemble the generator and thoroughly clean
all parts. It is not necessary to remove the field
2. GENERATOR coils from the generator frame at this time. Use a
cloth dampened with a suitable cleaning fluid and
PERFORMANCE TESTS then dry the parts with compressed air.
OUTPUT TEST—Connect a test lamp between Do not immerse the field coils, armature, felt
the armature terminal on the generator and washer, or insulating parts in fluid or dry them
ground. Be sure to clean the armature terminal to with heat. Never steam clean the generator.
remove any oxidation or scale caused by over-
heating, which may have been caused by a loose 1. ARMATURE—Inspect the core for scored or
connection. Operate the engine between speeds of damaged laminations, out of place or loose wind-
800 to 1,000 RPM, and ground the field terminal on ings, or loose connections at the commutator. In-
the generator. If the test lamp does not light, make spect the commutator for roughness, excessive
sure the brushes are making contact on the commu- wear or run-out and improperly undercut mica.
tator. While the armature is turning, use a piece Check for bent or worn shaft.
of wood and a strip of 00 sandpaper to clean the TEST FOR GROUND—lest for a grounded arma-
commutator. Never use emery cloth to clean the ture with a test lamp and probes. Place one probe
commutator. on the shaft and check each commutator bar. If
the lamp lights, a short is indicated and a new
Repeat the output test. If the test lamp still fails armature should be installed. Do not touch the
to light, it will be necessary to remove the gener- probes to the brush surface of the commutator or
ator for further inspection and tests. to the bearing surface of the shaft.
MOTORING TEST—Remove the fan belt and TEST FOR SHORT—Place the armature on a
disconnect the armature and field wires from the growler. Turn the armature slowly and hold a
generator. Connect a jumper wire between the hack saw blade or thin strip of steel over each
battery terminal on the starter solenoid switch and segment of the core. Vibration of the blade or strip
the armature terminal on the generator. Connect a of steel will indicate a short and the armature
jumper wire from the field terminal on the gener- should be replaced.
MyMopar.com
49x664 49x665
Figure 6 — Refac¡ng Commutator Figure 7 — Undercutting Mica
COMMUTATOR RUN-OUT—Place the armature connections. Resolder all loose connections and
shaft ends in Vee blocks and check commutator repair any frayed or chafed insulation, provided
run-out with a dial indicator. If the run-out exceeds the wire has not been damaged. If the wire has
.0005 inch, the commutator should be refaced in a been damaged, the field coil assembly should be
lathe or with tool C-770 shown in Figure 6. replaced.
3. TESTING FIELD COILS FOR OPEN CIRCUIT

NOTE —Connect one test lamp probe to the field coil
terminal lead and the other probe to the brush
Remove only sufficient metal from the com- lead. If the test lamp does not light, the coil is
mutator to provide a clean smooth surface. open or the lead connections are loose or broken.
Lead connections may be repaired. If the coil cir-
cuit is open, the assembly should be replaced.
After refacing the commutator, or if the mica
was even with or above the brush surface, under- 4. TESTING FIELD COIL RESISTANCE—Be sure
cut the mica to a depth of ¾ 2 m c h with tool C-770 that all connections are tight and soldered. Con-
shown in Figure 7, or a fine tooth hack saw blade. nect an ammeter and a variable resistance control
Be sure to undercut the mica square and the full between the positive post on the battery and both
width of the slot. After undercutting, polish the field coil brush leads. Connect a voltmeter be-
commutator with No. 00 sandpaper to remove pos- tween the field coil brush leads and terminal leads.
sible burred edges.
Connect a jumper wire between the field coil ter-
2. TESTING FIELD COIL FOR GROUND—Check minal leads and the negative post of the battery.
for a ground in the field coils by connecting test Adjust the voltage with the variable resistance con-
light prods between the field terminal stud and trol. The field coil amperage draw should read as
the generator frame. If the test lamp lights, remove indicated in the Generator Data and Specifications
the terminal stud and check the insulating bushing on page 94. If the amperage does not come within
and washers for cracks or damage. If the field these specifications test each coil separately in the
terminal stud was properly insulated, separate the manner outlined above. When testing one coil
coil leads and test each coil by connecting one only, the amperage should read twice the amper-
end of the test light to the individual lead and the age as when testing two coils. If a coil does not
other end to the generator frame. Remove the pole meet these specifications, it should be replaced.
shoe screw and slide the grounded coil out of
the frame. 5. COMMUTATOR END HEAD—Test the brush
holders for ground. Connect one probe of a test
Inspect the field coils, terminal leads and brush lamp to the brush holder and the other probe to
leads for broken, frayed, chafed insulation or loose the commutator end head. If the test lamp lights,
MyMopar.com
HEAD
NUT
WASHER
NUT
WASHER
ARMATURE
ASSEMBLY
FIELD COILS
FRAME ASSEMBLY
SCREW
56PÌ4Ó GASKET'
LOCK WASHER-
Figure 8 — Generator Disassembled
the holder is grounded and a new commutator end on the armature. The brushes should be examined
head should be installed. Do not attempt to tighten to make sure they are free in the holders. To check
brush holders. If the brush holders are loose, the tension, hook a spring scale under the brush
end head must be replaced. Check the Oilite bush- spring and pull upward. Take the scale reading
ing for excessive wear. If the bushing is worn to just as the spring leaves the brush. Discard
less than ½ inch in length, they should be re- springs that do not meet specifications. Too much
placed. When new brushes are installed, they tension will cause rapid wear of the commutator
should be sanded to obtain a correct fit against and the brushes. Too little tension will cause arc-
the commutator. To seat the brush against the ing and low generator output.
commutator, use a strip of No. 00 sandpaper as
wide as the finished surface of the commutator. 6. DRIVE END HEAD—Clean the ball bearing in
Lift the brush and slide the sandpaper—grit side— a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air.
between the commutator and the brushes. See Do not spin the bearing with air pressure. Inspect
Figure 10. With spring pressure against the brushes, the bearing for pitting or looseness. Check the fit
slowly turn the armature in correct rotation, pull- of the bearing in the drive end head. If it is loose,
ing the sandpaper from under the brushes. Repeat check the recess with a new bearing before dis-
operation until the brushes seat at least 75 per cent carding the old one.
over the entire contact face. (Excessive use of
sandpaper will shorten life of the brushes and ASSEMBLY OF GENERATOR
should be avoided.) Blow out all sand and carbon
Soak the felt washers and the Oilite bushing in
dust from the generator with compressed air and
clean engine oil. Pack the ball bearing about half
then tighten pigtail connections securely.
full with high temperature non-fibre grease. Com-
Brush spring tension should be checked with press felt slightly to remove excess oil before
the commutator end head and brushes installed installing.
MyMopar.com
GENERATOR REGULATOR
(1955) VA J=É
AMMETER
(O
BATTERY
STARTER
SOLENOID
STARTER
RADIO COND. 5ÓP147
Figure 9 — Generating Circuit
IMPORTANT
When assembling armature and drive end

head, install felt washer retainer on shaft over
snap ring before pressing shaft into bearing.
This retainer turns with the shaft and inner
race and prevents snap ring from tearing the
felt washer. Be sure that the snap ring on the
armature shaft is pressed firmly against the
inner race of the bearing.
When installing the through bolts, make sure

that the lower bolt is installed under the loop in
the field connection insulation to prevent ground-
ing of the field coils by the bolts.
Figure 10 — Seating Generator Brushes
When installing commutator end head, remove
the felt wick and reinstall it after the head and
armature are assembled on the generator. This
will prevent the wick from being damaged when The Current Regulator limits the maximum cur-
the shaft is inserted. Before installing the gener- rent output of the generator in amperes. When the
ator in the car, perform the motoring test. generator output reaches a predetermined maxi-
mum, the regulator points are opened, cutting in a
resistance in the generator field circuit—reducing
3. GENERATOR REGULATOR the output. Then, the instant that the output drops,
The generator regulator assembly contains the points close, cutting out the resistance, and the
three units—the circuit breaker, the current regu- output rises. These cycles occur so rapidly that the
lator and the voltage regulator. Each unit performs points vibrate at a high frequency. Thus, the out-
a separate function. put is held constant at a predetermined maximum.
The Circuit Breaker acts as an automatic switch The Voltage Regulator is used to hold the volt-
between the generator and the battery. It closes age of the electrical system constant within close
the charging circuit when the generator is charg- limits. When the voltage rises to a predetermined
ing and opens the circuit when the generator is value, the regulator contact points vibrate. Thus, a
not charging. This prevents the battery discharg- resistance is cut in and out of the generator field
ing back through the generator. circuit.
MyMopar.com
VOLTMETER CONNECTION FOR CIRCUIT BREAKER TEST
REGULATOR ARMATURE TERMINAL. VOLTAGE

REGULATOR COIL
REGULATOR GROUND SCREWS
^ CURRENT
REGULATOR COIL
GENERATOR
- GROUND 1956 REGULATOR FIELD TERMINAL'
- CIRCUIT
^ +
+ GROUND 1955 REGULATOR G R O U N D / - BREAKER COIL
SCREWS
BATTERY
REGULATOR
TEST AMMETER \ BATTERY
TERMINAL
VOLTMETER CONNECTION FOR CURRENT

A N D VOLTAGE REGULATOR TESTS 56P149
Figure 11 — Generator Regulator Wiring and Test Connection Diagram
PERFORMANCE TESTS Connect the test voltmeter to the "A" terminal

of the regulator and the regulator housing ground.
J. VOLTAGE REGULATOR — Operate the en- See 9f Figure 11.
gine until the regulator is up to normal operating
temperature. Connect a voltmeter from the battery Start the engine and be sure it idles smoothly.
terminal of the regulator to ground. See Figure 11. Then, increase the engine speed slowly to deter-
mine when the circuit breaker points close. When
Connect a variable resistance across the battery the hand on the voltmeter kicks back slightly, it
posts. Run engine at a speed equivalent to 30 indicates the points have closed. This should occur
miles an hour until voltage remains constant and at a specified voltage. See page 96. Reduce the
the charging rate has dropped from its peak. The engine speed until the contact points open as noted
cover must be on the regulator during the warm-up on the voltmeter. Points should open at voltage
period and when taking test readings. Take tem- specified. See page 96.
perature of air two inches from regulator. The
voltage regulator must control the voltage as indi- If adjustment is necessary, remove the regulator
cated in the Generator Data and Specifications on cover and inspect the contact points of all three
page 94. units. In normal use, the contacts will become
grayed. If the contact points are burned, dirty, or
2. CIRCUIT BREAKER — Disconnect the wire pitted, replace the regulator contact points.
from the "B" terminal of the regulator, connect the
test ammeter to the wire that was removed and to 3. CURRENT REGULATOR—Remove the lead
the regulator "B" terminal (10) as illustrated in from the battery terminal on the regulator. Con-
Figure 11. nect an ammeter between the regulator battery
terminal and the lead that was removed. Connect
a voltmeter from the regulator battery terminal
NOTE
to ground.
Do not attempt to adjust the regulator assem- Run the engine at a speed equivalent to 30 miles
bly unless its operation is thoroughly under- an hour for 15 additional minutes, applying enough
stood and accurate meters are available. Even resistance load across the battery to maintain a
a slight error in the setting of the unit may voltmeter reading of from 7.2 to 7.5 volts.
cause improper functioning, resulting in a run At 70° F., the current regulator should operate
down or an overcharged battery, or damage at the lower figure indicated on the regulator
to the generator and regulator. nameplate, plus or minus 2 amperes at the con-
clusion of the warm-up period.
MyMopar.com
IMPORTANT
COVER GASKET COVER
When electrical tests are made at the termi-
Ci:Ir> I
nals of the generator regulator, there is great
danger of short circuiting the regulator and
burning the contact reeds inside the unit.
Whenever possible, it is better to connect test
apparatus where there is no danger of damag-
ing the regulator. For example:
(1) When checking generator output, ground

the field terminal at the generator, rather than
at the regulator, to avoid the possibility of
grounding the regulator battery terminals with
a screw driver. Never attempt to check gener-
COVER FASTENING SCREWS
ator output by shorting between the field and
armature or battery terminal of the regulator.
CUT OUT RELAY CURRENT REGULATOR
X
\ VOLTAGE REGULATOR
(2) Timing or trouble lights should be con-
nected at the starter solenoid terminal rather
CONTACT *` 3 ""' `**^
POINTS than at the battery terminal of the regulator.
This will avoid danger of the clip connector
slipping off and simultaneously touching the
battery and field terminal of the regulator.
(3) When flashing the generator field to

cause the generator to build up residual mag-
netism, first remove the lead from the gener-
ator field terminal. Then ground the generator
field terminal and attach a jumper from the
/ battery negative post to the armature terminal
SPRING HANGERS ;
on the generator.
BATTERY TERMINAL ARMATURE SPRINGS
STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE
CURRENT REGULATOR
VOLTAGE REGULATOR j CUT P U T RELAY
INSPECTION
Ií test indicates that the generator regulator is
at fault, an inspection should be made to deter-
mine ií any of the following conditions exist:
Loose or broken connections, evidence of burn-
ing or excessive heat, broken or loose carbon
resistors, improperly installed armature springs,
distorted spring hangers, bent armatures, yokes
or hinges or evidence of moisture or corrosion.
ADJUSTING
\ \ Check the contact points and the armature air
SCREWS gap for correct clearance.
ARMATURE
FIELD TERMINAL / SPRING
Before testing or adjusting the regulator, be sure
ARMATURE TERMINAL SPRING HANGER
all connections in the charging current are clean
51x618
and tight, and that the battery is fully charged.
Check the generator output and be sure the regu-
lator is the correct unit for use with the particular
Figure 12 — Generator Regulator generator. Be sure regulator is properly grounded.
MyMopar.com
NOTE
Always make the voltage regulator test be-

fore making the current regulator test. When
removing or installing the regulator cover, do
not let the cover touch the regulator parts, as
this might cause a short circuit and damage
the assembly'
ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR

In normal use, the contact points will become
grayed. If the contact points are burned, dirty or
pitted, reface them with a clean, fine file.
51x619
1. REFÄCING CONTACT POINTS—File length-
wise and parallel to the armature, as shown in Figure 13 — Refacing Regulator Contact Points
Figure 13, until the contact points present a
smooth, flat surface toward each other. It will not
be necessary to remove all traces of pitting.
Do not file crosswise as grooves may form which
would tend to cause sticking and erratic operation.
Clean contact points (Figure 14) after filing, with
a strip of linen, or lintless bond tape. Make sure
no lint remains between the points after cleaning.
After the contact points are refaced and cleaned,
readjust the armature air gaps to compensate for
the metal removed from the points.
CAUTION
Never use sandpaper or emery cloth, or a file 51x620
that has been used on other metal. Particles
of emery, sand, or metal may become embed- Figure 14—Cleaning Regulator Contact Points
ded in the points and cause them to burn rapid-
ly— resulting in an open circuit, or welding
of the points together.
P!N GAUGE
2. CHECKING CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REG-

ULATOR AIR GAPS—Use the pin type gauge
(from Kit C-828) which measures from .048 to .052
inch. Insert gauge on point side of air gap and next
to armature stop pin with the contact points just
separating. See Figure 15.
3. ADJUSTING CURRENT AND VOLTAGE AIR
GAPS—Loosen the bracket screws and raise or
lower the contact point brackets until the desired
clearance is obtained. Tighten these screws secure-
ADJUSTING SCREW
ly after adjustment is made. With the armature
held down so that the stop rivet rests on the magnet 5¶×624
core, the point gap should be .015 inch when
checked with a feeler gauge. Figure 15—Checking Regulator Air Gaps
MyMopar.com
4. CHECKING CIRCUIT BREAKER ÄIR GAP—

Use the flat gauge (from Kit C-828) which measures
from .031 to .034 inch. Insert the gauge between the
FLAT GAUGE
armature and magnet core. See Figure 16. Place
the gauge as near to the hinge as possible.
5. ADJUSTING CIRCUIT BREAKER AIR GAP—
Bend the armature stop so that the space between
the core and armature is within the limits speci-
fied. The stop must not interfere with the movement
of the armature. Adjust the contact point gap to
.015 inch by expanding or contracting the station-
ary contact bridge. See Figure 17. When adjusting
the contact gap, keep the contact points in align-
ment.
51x625
NOTE
Figure 16 — Checking Circuit Breaker Air Gap By increasing the contact gap, the opening
voltage is lowered and the closing reverse
current is raised.
6. ADJUSTING ARMATURE FOR PROPER

OPENING AND CLOSING VOLTAGES—Use bend-
ing tool (from Kit C-828). With slot in end of tool
placed over the lower spring hanger (Figure 18),
bend the hanger to decrease or increase the spring
tension until the desired opening or closing volt-
age is obtained.
RESISTANCE IN CHARGING CIRCUIT

The wiring harness between the generator, regu-
ARMATURE STOP
lator, ammeter and battery should be inspected
for loose connections, breaks at terminals, frayed
STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE
51x621 or damaged insulation. Special attention should
be given to battery terminals. Numerous causes of
Figure 17 — Adjusting Circuit Breaker Air Gap corroded battery terminals have been confused
with a defective generator or regulator.
BENDING TOOL —
AMMETER SHOWS DISCHARGE
(ENGINE RUNNING AT FAST IDLE)
If ammeter indicates generator is not charging,
first make certain the ammeter is operating prop-
erly. If the ammeter is operating correctly but still
shows discharge, make the following tests to lo-
cate trouble:
1. GENERATOR REGULATOR
(a) Field Circuits — Connect a jumper wire from
51x622 base of regulator to frame of generator. Increase
engine speed slowly to fast idle. If ammeter shows
Figure 18 — Adjusting Armature Spring Tension charge, the ground of the regulator is defective.
MyMopar.com
(b) Regulator Ground — Tighten mounting examine the following parts for possible loose
screws and examine regulator ground strap for connections or grounds:
break. Replace strap if necessary.
1. GENERATOR—Remove the field lead from
(c) Regulator—Connect a jumper wire from reg- the field terminal at generator. If the ammeter
ulator base to field terminal at regulator. If this shows a charge on fast idle, remove generator and
causes the ammeter to show a charge when engine test field coils for ground.
speed is increased, install a new regulator.
2. WIRING—Inspect wiring from the generator
(d) Regulator Field Terminal and Connections— to the regulator for loose terminal connections or
With the jumper still grounded at the regulator, frayed and worn insulation. Remove field lead
connect the other end of the wire to the field ter- from field terminal at regulator and protect it from
minal at the generator (small terminal stud). In- grounding. If ammeter shows charge on fast idle,
crease the engine speed; if the ammeter registers it's an indication that there is a grounded condi-
a charge, the cable from generator field terminal tion.
to regulator field terminal is defective or connec-
tions are loose. 3. REGULATOR—It ammeter fails to show
charge under tests described in paragraphs 1 and
2. BATTERY—Test for a weak or discharged 2 above, the regulator should be removed and
battery. Inspect cables in charging circuit for loose- tested.
ness and battery terminals for corrosion.
3. FAN BELT—Make sure fan belt is tight and in EXCESSIVE LOSS OF BATTERY FLUID
good condition. If the battery is continually low on fluid or will
4. WIRING—Inspect wiring for frayed or worn not hold fluid, look for the following possible
insulation in the generating circuit. causes:
5. REGULATOR—With the engine at fast idle, 1. BATTERY CASE—Inspect for a broken or

connect a jumper test lead from the field terminal cracked battery.
on generator to ground. If ammeter now shows 2. VOLTAGE REGULATOR—Inspect for an im-
charge, the regulator may be at fault. Test regula- properly adjusted voltage regulator. Excessive
tor as described in (1).
evaporation of battery fluid will occur when bat-
6. GENERATOR—If above tests do not deter- tery becomes overheated, due to too high a charg-
mine cause of trouble, remove and test generator. ing rate.
AMMETER FAILS TO REGISTER CHARGE CONTINUAL LOSS OF BATTERY CHARGE

OR DISCHARGE If the battery can be fully charged but will not
If the ammeter fails to show a charge or dis- retain the charge, one of the following conditions
charge and the other units of the generating sys- may exist:
tem are known to be in good condition perform
1. SHORT CIRCUIT—Inspect for a short circuit
the following test:
in the wiring system. Make sure top surface of
If the lights light and the ammeter fails to indi- battery is clean.
cate a discharge (engine not running), the ammeter
2. SULFATION OF BATTERY PLATES—Inspect
pointer is probably stuck or binding. If the lights
do not light, there is probably an open circuit or for sulfation of the battery plates. This is indicated
the bridge is burned out. Test by connecting a by a white discoloration of the positive plates.
jumper wire across the two ammeter terminals. Sulfation is caused by the battery plates being
If the lights light, the ammeter is at fault and should exposed to the air for an excessive period of time
be replaced. or if the battery stands in a semi-charged condition.
If sulfation was caused by low fluid in the battery,
AMMETER SHOWS HIGH CHARGE the battery should be replaced. If it was caused
by standing in a semi-charged condition, it can
(BATTERY FULLY CHARGED) usually be corrected by charging the battery slow-
If the ammeter continues to indicate a high ly from 60 to 100 hours at half the normal charging
charge after the engine has run for a short time, rate.
MyMopar.com
107
SECTION VII
STARTING SYSTEM
Page
1. Performance Tests 107
2. Inspection and Bench Tests 107
3. Starter Motor Drive Assembly 109
4. Assembly of Starter 109
5. Diagnosis Procedures Ill
1. PERFORMANCE TESTS Refer to Data and Specifications, page 108 for

required amperage draw and torque at the speci-
In order to insure accurate readings and to avoid fied voltage.
possible damage to the starter and gears, perform-
ance tests should be made with the starter re-
2. INSPECTION AND BENCH TESTS
moved. The starter motor should first be checked
to determine whether the free running voltage Remove the commutator end plate and pull the
and current are within specifications as indicated armature out of the starter frame. Clean the starter
on Data and Specifications Chart. parts with a rag dampened with cleaning fluid.
Dry all parts with compressed air. Do not immerse
FREE RUNNING TEST the armature assembly, field coils, insulation or
brushes in cleaning solvent.
Connect a heavy lead from a fully charged bat-
tery to a carbon pile resistor. Connect another ARMATURE
heavy lead from the resistor through an ammeter
Inspect the core for scored or damaged lamina-
to the terminal post of the starter. Connect a volt-
tions, out of place or loose windings, or loose
meter between the starter terminal and the starter
connections at the commutator. Inspect the com-
frame. Connect a heavy lead from the ground post
mutator for roughness, excessive wear, run-out or
of the battery to the starter frame. It is advisable
mica extending above the commutator bars. Check
to connect a switch in this lead. Adjust the carbon for a bent or worn shaft. Inspection for commutator
pile resistor to specified voltage at the starter. See run-out and bent shaft must be made with the
page 108. If new brushes have been installed run Bendix drive removed.
the starter motor for about two minutes to seat the
brushes. Place the armature shaft ends in Vee blocks and
check commutator run-out with a dial indicator. If
The ammeter should indicate the specified aver- the run-out exceeds .003 inch, the commutator
age draw at the R.P.M. shown in the Starting Motor should be refaced in a lathe or with special tool
Data and Specifications on page 108. C-770. The commutator should be polished with
No. 00 sandpaper to remove dirt, grease or burred
STALL TORQUE TEST edges. Never use emery cloth to polish the com-
mutator. Remove only enough metal from the
Connect the starter motor to the battery with the
commutator to provide a clean smooth surface.
resistor, ammeter and voltmeter in the circuit as
Never undercut the mica as dirt and carbon may
described in the free running test. Make certain
collect in the grooves and cause a short between
that the ammeter and resistor are of sufficient the commutator bars.
capacity to carry at least 500 amperes. After secur-
ing the starter motor, attach a 12 inch torgue arm to
TESTING ARMATURE FOR GROUND
the starter motor pinion gear. Hook a spring scale
of at least 15 pounds capacity to the end of the Test for a grounded armature with a test lamp
torque arm. Before closing the switch, be sure that and probes. Place one probe on the shaft and
the resistor is open, to avoid excessive initial check each commutator bar. If the lamp lights, a
torque. Adjust the resistor to specified voltage. short is indicated and a new armature should be
MyMopar.com
STARTING MOTOR
Models P-26 P-27 P-28 P-29
Starting Motor MCH 6305 MCH 6206 MCH 6001 MCH 6002
Model Number
Type Drive Bendix-Starter Solenoid activated by turning
ignition key to extreme right.
Rated Voltage 12
Armature Shaft End Play .005 to .030
Maximum Allowable
Armature Run-Out .003 in.
Brush Spring Tension 42 to 53 ounces
Maximum Voltage 5.5 10
Maximum *5O
50 to 65
Amperage Draw 60 (P-28 w/P.F.)
*44OO
Minimum Speed-RPM 4700 to 4900
3200 (P-28 w/P.F.)
Voltage
Maximum *2IO
500
Amperage Draw 240 (P-28 w/P.F.)
Minimum *5
11
Torque-ft. lbs. 6.5 (P-28 w/P.F.)
*All P-28 and P-29 models except P-28 with PowerFlite Transmission.
HORN RELAY
TO COIL TERMINAL '
STARTER MOTOR B
-I- 1956
HO
o o
C IGN
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH 1 STARTER & IGNITION

(POWERFLITE J=- SWITCH
ONLY) T
© GENERATOR
REGULATOR
A
STARTER SOLENOID
AMMETER
1955 ONLY 56P212
Figure 1 — Starting Circuit
MyMopar.com
STARTING SYSTEM 109
installed. Do not touch the probes to the brush

surface of the commutator or to the bearing surface TEST PRODS
STARTER FRAME
of the shaft. AND FIELD COILS
TOUCH MAIN
TESTING ARMATURE FOR SHORT BRUSHES W¡TH
TEST PRODS —
Place armature assembly on the growler on test !F TEST LAMP
MAIN
bench. Turn armature slowly while holding a thin BRUSHES
DOES NOT LIGHT,
THERE IS A
strip of steel over the core of armature. If blade BREAK IN THE
vibrates, coil is shorted. COIL WIRING
-GROWLER
TESTING FIELD COILS FOR GROUND
TEST LAMP
Check for a ground in the field coils by connect- SWITCH-ON
GROWLER
ing test light prods between the field terminal stud SWITCH-OFF
and the starter frame. If the test lamp lights, re-
TESTING STARTER FIELD COILS FOR OPEN CIRCUIT
move the terminal stud and check the insulating
bushing and washers for cracks or damage. If the STARTER FRAME
AND FIELD COiLS
field terminal stud is properly insulated, separate
the coil leads, disconnect the jumper wire between
the brushes, and test each coil by connecting one
end of the test light to the individual lead and the TOUCH ONE
other end to the starter frame. Remove the pole PROD TO MAIN
shoe screw and slide the grounded coil out of the MAIN* •-'
BRUSH AND
OTHER PROD TO
frame. BRUSHES
STARTER FRAME —
IF TEST LAMP
Inspect the field coils, terminal leads and brush LIGHTS THE
COILS ARE
leads for broken, frayed, chafed insulation or loose GROUNDED
connections. Resolder all loose connections and
TEST PRODS
repair any frayed or chafed insulation, provided GROWLER
the wire has not been damaged. If the wire has GROWLfcR
SWITCH TEST LAMP
been damaged, the field coil assembly should be SWITCH-ON
,OFf.
replaced. See Figure 2.
TESTING STARTER FIELD COILS FOR GROUND
32x66
3. STARTER MOTOR DRIVE ASSEMBLY
Figure 2 — Testing Starter Motor Field Coils
The starter motor drive assembly is serviced
only as an assembly. No attempt should be made
to disassemble the unit for repairs other than that brush and kerosene. Wipe threads dry and lubri-
described for cleaning and lubricating the unit. cate with a few drops of SAE 10-W engine oil. See
To remove the drive assembly from armature Figure 6.
shaft, loosen the set screw at the end of the drive
spring and slide unit from shaft. 4. ASSEMBLY OF STARTER
Soak the Oilite bushings in SAE 10-W engine oil
and apply a light film of oil to the shaft bearing
IMPORTANT
surfaces. Install the thrust washers and the inter-
Do not immerse the drive assembly in any mediate bearing on the armature shaft. Insert the
cleaning solution, since this would remove the key in the keyway and install the starter motor
lubrication originally applied under the screw- drive assembly. Make certain that the starter drive
shaft. set screw is seated in the armature shaft.
Install the pinion housing on the armature as-
sembly and place the armature assembly in the
CLEANING AND LUBRICATION
starter frame. Install the commutator end head.
Remove the barrel retaining ring and remove Make sure that the slots in the intermediate bear-
barrel from control nut. Clean threads with a small ing and the commutator end head line up with the
MyMopar.com
Nüï _
z NUT
LOCKWASHfcR *~ `
LOCKWASHËR
INSULATING WA`>HfcR`
LCCKWASHER
8PUSH SCREW
HEAD ASSY
\
HOUSING
BENDIX DRIVE
(SERVICED ONLY AS
AN ASSEMBLY)
ARMATURE AND SHAFT A S S Y , ~ _ _ SET SCREW
CENTER PLATE
52x292
Figure 3 - S t a r t e r Motor - Disassembled (1955)
BODY
BRUSHES
POLE
PIECES THRUST WASHER
HEAD ASSY,
THROUGH BOLTS
BUSHING
BRUSH
BRUSHES SPRINGS
ARMATURE
HOUSING CENTER PLATE & SHAFT ASSY.
BENDIX DRIVE THRUST
(SERVICED ONLY WASHER
AS A N ASSEMBLY)
56P154
Figure 4 - S t a r t e r Motor - Disassembled (1956)

MyMopar.com
STARTING SYSTEM 111
34x93 45 x 648
Figure 5 — Testing Brush Holders for Ground Figure 6 —Cleaning Starter Drive Assembly
indexing pins in the frame. Before installing the 3. STARTER MOTOR—If test indicates that the
starter on the engine, make a free running test. starter motor is at fault, it should be removed and
inspected for repair. A heavy arc, appearing when
INSTALLING STARTER MOTOR ASSEMBLY the battery terminal is touched to the starter ter-
When installing the starter assembly, the starter minal, indicates a grounded condition in the
drive pinion may be in the extended or engaged starter. If no arcing occurs, there is probably a
position. If this is the case, "hand feel" the drive poor brush contact or an open circuit in the start-
ing motor windings.
pinion into mesh with the flywheel ring gear teeth
before tightening the mounting bolts. Failure to do
STARTER FAILS TO ENGAGE
this may result in damaged ring gear teeth or
broken starter housing mounting flanges. When the starter motor pinion fails to engage
with the flywheel ring gear (with the battery fully
charged) the trouble is in the starter motor.
L STARTER DRIVE—Inspect for heavy oil, dirt,
STARTER TURNS SLOWLY OR DOES NOT OPERATE or ice on the threads of the drive.
1. BATTERY—Test for weak or discharged bat- 2. STARTER DRIVE SPRING—Inspect for broken
tery. Inspect terminals for corrosion or looseness. drive spring.
Clean and tighten as necessary.
STARTER LOCKS IN ENGAGEMENT
2. SOLENOID AND SWITCH — If the solenoid
If the starter locks in engagement, it can be
switch fails to "click" when the ignition key is freed by pushing car back and forth with the
turned, connect a jumper wire from the negative transmission in high gear.
battery post to the small terminal on the solenoid.
If this causes the solenoid to "click," check for 1. STARTER MOUNTING—Another way to free
loose connections at the small terminal on the a locked starter is to loosen starter mounting, pull
solenoid switch, the ignition-starter switch, or the starter out slightly and then retighten bolts.
fuel gauge and ammeter. If the solenoid switch 2. FLYWHEEL RING GEAR OR PINION — Ex-
fails to "click" when energized with a jumper wire, amine for burrs or chipped teeth. If ring gear is
install a new solenoid. damaged, replace both gear and starter drive unit.
MyMopar.com
, ` - » C A P ASSY
NOTE: SINGLE BREAKER

POINTS USED ON 1956 MODELS
CONTACT
CONTACT PLUNGER
ROTOR-^
LOCKWASHFR
J
SCREW
V GROUND LEAD
CONDENSER ¡
t ì
SCRÍ:WN ^ > BREAKER POINT
LOCKWASHER- ~ · ~ *
"' '7 SET
SCREW — í BEAR!NG
WASHER -*. —-**,¿, / WASHERS TERMINAL
LOCKWASHER- — * -'' ÍNSULATíON
``**` - -tOCKWASHER 8USHfNG
LOCKWASHER-'''
PRIMARY LEAD SPRING AND BRACKET
SCREW —
/ SPRÍNG AND SHER
BRACKET
, SCREW
LOCK WASHER
_ - - LOCK WASHER
NUT
CREW
IOCKWASHER
;NSUIATOR
VACUUM CHAMBER ASSY
WA¾HfcR
GOVERNOR WEIGHTS
5óPl56
Figure 1 — Distributor Disassembled—PowerFlow 6 Figure 2 — Distributor Disassembled—Hy-Fire V-8
MyMopar.com
113
SECTION VIII
IGNITION SYSTEM
Page
1. Distributor 113
2. Coil and Condenser 121
3. Spark Plugs 122
1. DISTRIBUTOR Point gap can be adjusted by either using a

feeler gauge or dwell meter. Dwell angle is the
Distributors used on Plymouth engines contain number of degrees of cam rotation during which
two controls which provide automatic advance of time the points are closed. Insufficient dwell angle
ignition timing according to engine speed and clearance will increase the dwell angle and cause
load. The centrifugal governor in the distributor the points to burn. Excessive point clearance will
body regulates ignition timing according to speed. reduce the dwell angle and result in high speed
The vacuum control unit attached to the outside misfire.
of the distributor body regulates the ignition timing
according to load. Feeler Gauge Method—Points should be clean
and make flat contact with each other. Rotate the
DUAL POINT DISTRIBUTOR
distributor until rubbing block is on high point of
cam lobe.
The distributor used on the Plymouth 1955 V-8
Hy-Fire V-8—Loosen stationary plate lock screw
Hy-Fire engine contains two sets of points which
and set point gap .018 inches with a feeler
permit additional current build-up time in the pri-
gauge. Then retighten lock screw and recheck gap.
mary winding of the coil. Thus, maximum voltage
is induced in the secondary winding. PowerFlow 6 — Loosen stationary plate lock
screw and adjust screw until a .020 inch gap
The two sets of points are connected in parallel is obtained. Retighten lock screw and recheck gap.
and are positioned in relation to the 8 lobe cam so
as to provide 7 degree overlap of points opening Dwell Meter Method—Set points to specified gap
and closing. One set of points (circuit maker with feeler gauge first. Then find degrees of dwell
points) closes the primary circuit in coil and the on dwell meter and check dwell reading against
second set of points (circuit breaker points) opens point gap. If dwell readings are erratic or do not
the circuit causing a spark at the plug. Immedi- come within specified limits refer to Engine (Sec-
ately after the spark occurs, the circuit maker tion XII), Diagnosis Procedures, under "Engine
points are closed ahead of the circuit breaker Misses at Idle."
points, thus providing a circuit to build-up the
primary winding. As the cam rotates further, the Hy-Fire V-8—On 1955 models block one set of
secondary points close and just before the second- points open with a clean, lint free, insulation mate-
ary points open, the primary points open 7 degrees rial between points. Adjust other set of points to
ahead. show 26 to 28 degrees of closure on dwell meter.
Loosen lock screw just enough so that stationary
point will move with a slight drag. After adjust-
ADJUSTMENT OF DISTRIBUTOR POINTS ment, tighten lock screw and adjust second set of
Before adjustment of distributor points is per- points. The total dwell angle when checking both
formed, check movement of distributor shaft from sets of points should be 32 to 36 degrees of closure
side to side. If movement is excessive, remove the on dwell. A single set of points is used on 1956
distributor and check amount of bushing wear models. Set points to show 26 to 28 degrees closure
with dial indicator as shown in Figure 9. on dwell.
MyMopar.com
PowerFlow 6 — Loosen stationary lock screw allow to idle. The timing light flash should occur
sufficiently to provide slight drag. Turn adjusting at the instant the chalk mark is opposite the
screw until reading shows from 36 to 41 degrees pointer on the timing chain cover. If not, loosen
of closure on dwell. Recheck after tightening. the distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor
clockwise or counter-clockwise until the correct
setting is obtained. As engine speed is increased,
IGNITION TIMING the timing light should indicate a gradual spark
At low altitudes, with any good grade of advance.
"regular" gasoline, the engine will give its best
performance if timed according to specifications. A minor change in ignition timing may be made
on 6 cylinder engines by loosening the distributor
When using lower grade fuels, or after carbon arm lock screw and moving the arm slightly in
has accumulated, objectionable spark ping may the proper direction.
occur with the specified timing. In cases of this
nature, ignition timing should be retarded, but Timing Indicator Method — Remove all spark
not to exceed 4 degrees of crankshaft rotation later plugs to permit rotating crankshaft by hand. When
than specified. timing ignition, make certain that the No. 6 cyl-
inder on both the 6 cylinder engine and 8 cylinder
At high altitudes or when using premium gaso- engine is up at the top of the compression stroke
line, there is less tendency for spark ping. In such and the distributor rotor is pointing to the dis-
cases, improved performance may be obtained by tributor cap insert corresponding to this cylinder.
advancing the spark not to exceed 4 degrees of
crankshaft rotation ahead of specified timing. PowerFlow 6—Remove timing hole plug at No.
6 cylinder and install timing indicator tool C-435
Within the foregoing limits, namely, from 4 as shown in Figure 4.
degrees ahead to 4 degrees later than specified
timing, a good rule to follow is to advance the Hi-Fire V-8—Install adapter tool C-3031 to C-345
spark until a slight ping is heard when accelerat- in the No. 6 cylinder spark plug hole as shown in
ing from 10 mph on 6 cylinder engines or 15 mph Figure 5.
on 8 cylinder engines in direct drive at wide open
throttle. The distributor should be moved clock- Set the zero reading on indicator dial with piston
wise to retard and counter-clockwise to advance at top dead center, take up back lash and rotate
ignition timing. engine clockwise until the dial reading is in agree-
ment with specifications.
Timing light Method—Place a chalk mark on
the vibration damper or fan pulley at the specified
number of degrees advance. Attach timing light
Tool C-693 as shown in Figure 3. Start engine and
TIMING INDICATOR
TEST LIGHT
INDICATOR ROD
•—™PISTON
32x161
Figure 3 — Timing Engine with Timing Light Figure 4 — Timing Indicator—PowerFlow 6

MyMopar.com
IGNITION SYSTEM 115
Connect test lamp from kit C¯435 between the

distributor primary terminal and the battery nega-
tive terminal. Loosen the distributor clamp bolt
and back off the distributor by rotating it clockwise
until the test lamp lights. Then turn the distributor
slowly, counterclockwise and stop the instant the
light goes out. Then tighten distributor clamp bolt.
Recheck after tightening.
TESTING MECHANICAL ADVANCE
Power FJow 6—The governor weight springs are

the same size and have same spring rate. Either
one or both can be adjusted.
Hy-Fiie V-8—A light and heavy spring is used in

the distributor. Make adjustments on the weak Figure 5 — Timing Indicator—Hy-F¡re V¯8
spring.
The governor weights in distributor must be the amount of vacuum required for the full speci-
tested on a distributor tester. Operate the distribu- fied advance. If the advance does not conform with
tor clockwise. Check the distributor R.P.M. against the specifications in chart, remove the retaining
the degree of advance and compare with specifi- nut and add or remove washers to make the neces-
cations in mechanical advance specification chart. sary adjustment. Check washer thickness and in-
stall a thinner washer to increase advance or a
If degrees of advance are high as compared thicker washer to reduce the advance.
with chart, it indicates that the weak spring in 8
cylinder distributor is too weak. In the case of the When the right combination of washers is deter-
6 cylinder distributor, either or both springs are mined to permit full advance, check the amount
weak. of vacuum required to produce about one degree of
advance. Usually if full advance is correct, it will
If the degree of advance is low, the spring ten- be correct throughout the entire range. If readings
sion is too stiff, making the advance too slow. do not conform, replace the spring and readjust the
tension by selecting the right combination of
In either case the tension can be increased or washers.
decreased by bending the bracket on the weight
plate to which the springs are attached. After
making adjustments check the distributor advance IMPORTANT
at all points in the chart. Make the checks while
increasing and decreasing the speed. If there is a Before testing, be sure diaphragm will hold
variation of the check points between the increase vacuum. Connect to vacuum pump on tester
and decrease readings, inspect the governor and set to give between 10 and 20 inches of
weights for alignment and adequate lubrication. vacuum. Shut off pump. If gauge reading falls,
it indicates a leak in vacuum chamber and
must be corrected.
TESTING VACUUM ADVANCE
The vacuum advance chamber on the distributor

automatically adjusts the spark advance to engine TESTING BREAKER ARM SPRING TENSION
load conditions. Upon sudden acceleration or wide Hook a spring scale on the breaker point arm
open throttle operation, manifold vacuum drops, and pull at a right angle to the point surfaces. See
causing the spring in the chamber to retard the Figure 6. Take a reading as the points separate.
ignition timing. As engine load or throttle opening Spring tension should be 17-20 ounces. Check both
decreases, the vacuum increases and overcomes arms for correct tension on V-8 distributors.
the pressure spring, advancing the ignition timing.
Remove vacuum from distributor vacuum con- If readings are not correct, loosen screw at end
trol unit and operate distributor at about 800 of spring and slide in to increase tension and out
R.P.M. until a steady reading is obtained. Apply to decrease tension. Tighten and recheck tension.
MyMopar.com
DISTRIBUTOR MECHANICAL ADVANCE

AND VACUUM CONTROL SPECIFICATIONS
GOVERNOR ADVANCE
Model ^Distributor Degrees and R.P.M.
Number
350 400 500 1000 1350 1650 1900 2150
7°-9°
IAT 4101B 0 0-1° 0-2° 4°-6° Max. — — —
l7°-l9°
IAZ 4003C 0-2.5° 0-5° 4°-6.5° 9°-ll° l2°-l4° l5°-l7° Max. —
l7°-l9°
IAZ 4003E 0-2.5° 0-5° 4°-6.5° 9°-ll° l2°-l4° l5°-l7° Max. —
12.5°- l5°-l7°
IAZ4003G 0-3° 0-6.5° 5°-8° lO°-l2° 14.5° Max. — —
12.5°- l5°-l7°
IAZ4003H 0-3° 0-6.5° 5°-8° lO°-l2° 14.5° Max. — —
12.5°-
IBJ 4301A 0-1° 0-2° 2°-4° 7°-9° 9°-ll° ll°-l3° I4½° l4°-l6°
12.5°-
IBJ 4301B 0-1° 0-2° 2°-4° 7°-9° 9°-ll° ll°-l3° I4½° !4°-l6°
VACUUM ADVANCE
Model ^Distributor Degrees and Inches of Mercury
Number
5.5 In. 7 In. 8.5 In. 10 In. 11 In. 14 In. 17 In.
7°-9°
IAT 4101B 0-1° l.5°-2.5° 2.5°-3.75° 4°-5.25° 5°-6° Max. —
lO.5°-l2.5°
IAZ 4003C 0-1° l.5°-3° 3°-5° 5°-6.5° 6°-8° 8°-lO.5° Max.
6°-8°
IAZ 4003E 0-1° l.5°-3° 3°-5° 5°-6.75° Max. — —
3°-5°
IAZ 4003G 0-1° l.5°-3° Max. — — — —
IAZ 4003H 0-1° l.5°-3° 3°-5° 5°-6.5° 6°-8° 8°-lO.5° lO.5°-l2.5°

H.5°-I3.5°
IBJ 4301A 0 0-3.5° 4°-6° 6°-8° 8°-lO° Max. —
lO.5°-l2.5°
IBJ 4301B 0-1° l.8°-3.5° 4°-6° 6°-8° Max.
*Note: All figures are in distributor RPM and distributor degrees. For engine RPM and degrees of
crankshaft travel, multiply RPM and degree figures by 2.
MyMopar.com
IGNITION SYSTEM 117
17 TO 20-OZ. SPRING BEARING RETAINER CLIPS

TENSION AS POINTS
SEPARATE
•—SPRING SCALE
BREAKER ARM
AND SPRING
32X40 52x279
Figure 6 — Testing Breaker A r m Spring Tension Figure 8 — Releasing Distributor Breaker Plate
w i t h Spring Scale Bearing—8 cylinder
DISASSEMBLY OF DISTRIBUTOR denser will also cause burned points. Poor point
contact due to improper setting will result in de-
Remove vacuum control unit and then the
creased point life.
breaker plate assembly. See Figure 7. Inspect the
pivot pin (6 cylinder) or bearings (8 cylinder) in the Remove felt wick and snap ring which holds
breaker plate assembly for binding, roughness or cam and yoke assembly to drive shaft. Remove
excessive looseness. If bearing binds (8 cylinder springs and governor weights. Place distributor in
distributor) slide bearing retainer clips out of the vise and do not tighten excessively. Attach a dial
way and carefully separate the upper and lower indicator to distributor base and position plunger
plate to expose bearing. See Figure 8. Clean in a against drive shaft at top. Move drive shaft "to and
suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. from" indicator with just enough pressure to meas-
Repack the bearing ½ full with a high melting ure the clearance between shaft and bushings.
point non-fibre grease and reassemble.
Excessive pressure will cause the shaft to spring
Inspect distributor points for evidence of burn- and show a false reading. If clearance is more than
ing or pitting. High resistance in the generating .008 inch, replace the bushings. See Figure 9.
circuit due to loose connections or corrosion may
have caused the points to oxidize. Loose condenser File the end of the staked rivet and drive it out
connections or high resistance within the con- of the distributor shaft collar. Then remove drive
HOLDING J!G
52x278 32X37
Figure 7 — Removing or Installing Breaker Figure 9 — Measuring Drive Shaft Bushing Wear
Plate— Hy¯F¡re V-8 Using Dial Indicator
MyMopar.com

DISTRIBUTOR
MODELS P-26 P-28 P-27 P-29
Type Automatic advance, speed and vacuum control
Location Left side of engine Rear of engine
Drive Camshaft Gear
Bushings 2 Bronze 2 Bronze in Distributor

1 Bronze in Cylinder Block
Number of Breakers 1 2 1
Number of Lobes on Cam 6 8

Cam Angle (dwell) 39° (±3°) 34° ±2° 27°±l°
Distributor Point Gap .020 in. .018 in.
Breaker Arm Tension 17 to 20 oz.
Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Timing Marks on Crankshaft vibration Crankshaft pulley

damper
Initial Ignition Timing 2° before T.D.C. 4° before T.D.C.
Engine Idle Speed 450-500 R.P.M.
For detail specifications by distributor number, see chart on page 116.
COIL
MODELS P-26, P-27 P-28 P-29
Primary 1.250-1.260 4.19-4.55 1.65-1.79
Ohms
resistance Secondary 4800-5700 6500-7600 8000-9200
at
7O°-8O° F
Ballast None None .665-.735
CONDENSER
Capacity (microfarads) .25 to .285
SPARK PLUGS
MODELS P-26 P¯28 P-27 P-29
4S-140 AR8O 4S-165 AR52

Type Resistor
Size 14 mm.
Gap .035 in.
MyMopar.com
IGNITION SYSTEM 119
shaft. Mount distributor in vise as shown in figure DRIVER TOOL

10 and press bushings out from bottom of base
with driver tool C-3041.
ASSEMBLY OF DISTRIBUTOR
The distributor shaft bushings should be soaked ADAPTOR
in light engine oil for about 15 minutes before
pressing them into position. Insert the bushing and
driver into the bore at top of distributor base and
press into position. Upper bushing should be .094
inches below top of bore. See Figure 11. Invert
distributor base and press in lower bushing flush
with bottom of surface. See Figure 12.
IMPORTANT >J 52x283

If bushings have oil holes be sure to line Figure 11 — Installing Upper Bushing
them up with oil holes in distributor base as Using Tool C-3041
the bushings are pressed into position. If bush-
ings do not have holes, press them into the
ADAPTOR DRIVER TOOL
distributor base and drill bushings with a ½
inch drill. Remove oiler to drill upper bushing
in both 6 and 8 cylinder distributors. In addi- BUSHING
tion, the 6 cylinder distributor has a ¼ inch

oil hole through the lower bushing.
After bushings are installed they should be

burnished with burnishing tool which is part of
tool C-3041. See Figure 13. Press tool through bush-
ings. If special tool is not available, ream bushings
from .4995 to .5000 inches.
Remove any burrs from inside of bushings and
make certain oil passages are clean. Install upper
52x284
thrust washers on the distributor shaft and insert
shaft in base. Install lower thrust washer collar
and rivet. Do not peen rivet until end play is Figure 12 — Installing Lower Bushing
checked with feeler gauge. Replace thrust wash- in Distributor
ers if end play exceeds .008 inches.
BURNISHING TOOL
UPPER BUSHING
DRIVER TOOL
52x285
52x281
Figure 1 0 — R e m o v i n g Drive Shaft Bushing Figure 13—Burnishing Drive Shaft Bushings
With Tool C-3041 With Burnishing Tool
MyMopar.com
120 IGNITION SYSTEM
GOVERNOR LUBRICANT pulled through the bushing by turning the nut, the
WEIGHTS CHAMBER
tool swedges the bushing tight in the bore and
LUBRICANT burnishes it to correct size. Do not ream this bush-
ing to size.
Before installing the distributor drive shaft, it
will be necessary to time the engine. Rotate crank-
shaft until Number 1 piston is at top dead center,
on compression stroke. Pointer should be at dead
center mark on crankshaft pulley. Coat the shaft of
the drive gear and insert it into the bushing. Spiral
the shaft into place so that the slot in the shaft in-
dexes with the oil pump shaft. The slot at the gear
end of the distributor drive shaft should point to the
32X38
first intake manifold bolt on the left side of the
engine. See Figure 17.
Figure 14 — Lubricating Governor Weights
Lubricate the governor weights and install them

on pivot pins. See Figure 14. Install the spring.
Slide cam and yoke on shaft and engage the
weight lugs with the slots in the yoke. See Figure
15. Install spring lock ring and felt wick at top of
drive shaft. Install the breaker plate assembly in
distributor body, and then the vacuum control unit.
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING
Hy-Fire V-8—It is advisable to replace the dis-

tributor drive shaft bushing whenever the engine
or distributor is reconditioned.
Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the dis-
tributor drive shaft and gear. Install tool C-3052
and remove bushing. See Figure 16. Install new REMOVING
51x982
bushing over tool C-3053 and insert tool and bush-
ing into bore as shown in Figure 16. Drive bushing Figure 16 — Removing and Installing Distributor
in place with soft hammer. As the burnisher is Drive Shaft Bushing
CAM AND YOKE LIGHT SPRING

v
DISTRIBUTOR
DRIVE SHAFT
GEAR
„ _^ SPRING CLIP
HEAVY ¯,PRING _
¯¯¯^¯¯` •` 52x286
Figure 15 — Distributor Cam Installed Figure 17 — Position of Distributor Drive Shaft
MyMopar.com
IGNITION SYSTEM 121
IGN.¯ STARTER SWITCH

JL 1955-POSITIVE GROUND
(1955 ONLY) *IGN>
AMMETER
BATTERY NOTE:
1956 HYFIRE
V-8 MODELS
USE SINGLE
BREAKER
POINTS
HORN RELAY
IGN. H Y - FIRE
V8 DISTRIBUTOR
TO SPARK PLUG
BALLAST
RESISTOR j-i
POWERFLOW 6
DISTRIBUTOR
BAT
BREAKER
POINTS
CONDENSER ~ J- _L CONDENSER
56P159
Figure 18 — Typical Ignition Circuit
DISTRIBUTOR INSTALLATION 2. COIL AND CONDENSER

PoweiFlow 6—Rotate crankshaft until number TESTING COIL
1 piston is at top dead center, on the compression
Clean and inspect the coil and terminals. Inspect
stroke. Timing indicator pointer should be pointing
coil for cracks or damage which would cause leak-
to the dead center mark on vibration damper.
age. Use reliable test equipment when checking
Check compression stroke by holding finger over
spark plug hole as crankshaft is rotated. Turn rotor ohm resistance in the primary and secondary coil
to No. 1 spark plug wire insert and install distribu- windings. See Data and Specifications on Page 118.
tor making sure drive shaft engages oil pump
shaft slot.
IMPORTANT
Hy-Fire V-8—Before installing distributor make
certain No. 1 piston is at top dead center, on com- Always check coil for external leaks and
pression stroke, and slot in distributor drive shaft arcing. Two tests should be made on the coil,
is pointing at the first intake manifold bolt on one when the coil is cool and one after coil has
left side. See Figure 17. warmed up.
Turn distributor rotor to number one spark plug When testing the coil on 1956 Hy-F¡re V-8
insert. Turn rotor counter-clockwise until points models, test the ballast resistor and coil inde-
just separate. Position oil seal ring in place and in- pendently of each other. The ballast resistor
stall distributor. Make sure shaft engages in lower is connected in series with the primary wind-
drive shaft. Vacuum unit points to right cylinder ings and is attached to the outside of the coil.
bank. Install clamp and check distributor timing.
MyMopar.com
INSPECTION
Excessive Heat—Loose spark plugs, poorly seat-

DISTRIBUTOR ing valves, excessively lean fuel mixture, incorrect
TERMINAL
ignition timing or use of incorrect plugs will cause
the spark plugs to run too hot.
The insulator nose will be white with dark spots
or blisters near the tip, or blistered dark brown
deposits near the tip plus excessive burning of the
electrodes. If the insulator material is badly fused
and blistered and the center and side electrodes
BALLAST RESISTOR are badly burned, there may be water leaking
BATTERY TERMINAL
into the cylinder head in addition to one or more
56PlóO
of the above conditions. Care should be taken
when installing plugs to prevent distorting the
shell. If leaks occur between the shell and the
Figure 19 — Ballast Resistor and Coil—
insulator, gas may leak by leaving dark streaks
Hy-F¡re V-8
up the side of the insulator top. This condition may
also cause burning of the insulator and the
electrodes.
To check the secondary, or high tension circuit, Insufficient Heat—An excessively rich fuel mix-
first pull the secondary cable out of the distributor ture, excessive oil consumption or prolonged idling
cap. Hold the end of the cable about ¼ of an inch or low speed operation may cause the plugs to
away from the cylinder head and crank the engine run too cold. A dull black film or "sooty" appear-
with the ignition key turned on. If the spark jumps ance is the result of prolonged idling or low speed
the ¼ inch gap, the coil should be satisfactory. operation. An accumulation of oily carbon or foul-
ing of the plugs will indicate rich mixture or exces-
If test is unsatisfactory, bench test coil on coil
sive oil consumption.
tester and replace if necessary.
Normal—A soft, powdery tan deposit or a red-
dish brown deposit accompanied by normal elec-
TESTING CONDENSER
trode erosion will indicate normal plug condition.
Inspect condenser for broken leads, frayed in- The reddish brown condition is usually the result
sulation, a loose or corroded terminal or poor of continued high speed or heavy load operation.
ground contact. Insulate breaker point, with card- A coil of higher out-put than specified for the
board and check condenser for capacity and particular engine or spark plug will cause rapid
ground. Check capacity and resistance from the burning of the electrodes. Always check the gen-
primary terminal through the condenser to the dis- erator circuit and coil out-put when continued plug
tributor base. If tests indicate a faulty condenser, failure is encountered.
perform breakdown, capacity and resistance tests
on a condenser tester. Check spark plug gaps accurately, preferably
with a wire gauge. Always inspect the insulator
for chips and cracks before and after cleaning
3. SPARK PLUGS and gapping.
The condition under which spark plugs have When testing resistor type plugs in a spark plug
been operating can be determined, in most cases, tester, the spark (under pressure) will be thin and
by visual inspection. It is important that plugs are purple instead of heavy and blue as with con-
periodically cleaned and the gaps reset to insure ventional type plugs. This is due to the resistor and
good engine performance, economy and long life is not an indication of a defective plug.
of the spark plugs. Improper installation of plugs
will result in premature failures. It should be made
certain that the cylinder head seat is clean, the
proper torque (32 ft. lbs.) is used to fully compress Diagnosis procedures concerning units of the
the gasket, and that the threads on the plug and ignition system are included in the various pro-
in the cylinder head are free of carbon and dirt. cedures described under Engine (Section XII).
MyMopar.com
123
SECTION IX
LIGHTING SYSTEM
Page
1. Testing Voltage in Lighting System 123
2. Circuit Breaker 123
3. Testing Lighting Circuit 125
4. Aiming Headlamps 125
5. Headlamp and Panel Lamp Switch 126
1. TESTING VOLTAGE IN LIGHTING This test may be made by taking a reading at

each end of the wire. A wire showing a voltage
SYSTEM
drop of more than 1/10 volt should be replaced.
Voltage must be measured with the lights burn- If any wire in the lighting circuit has been replaced
ing. To do this, remove the headlamp door and with other than standard equipment wire, it may
with the Sealed Beam unit partially removed from lack conductivity and cause a voltage drop. Be
its mounting seat, attach leads of a low reading sure to check the wires from the starter solenoid
voltmeter to the prongs of the Sealed Beam unit and generator regulator to the ammeter. These
while it is still inserted in the connector socket. wires carry the full load of all branching circuits.
The top prong supplies current for the traffic
beam. One of the side prongs supplies current for 2. CIRCUIT BREAKER
the country beam and the other is the ground con-
nection. A circuit breaker consists of a bi-metallic blade
and a set of contact points connected in series with
With engine stopped and the lamps "on" for 5 a circuit. When excess current passes through the
minutes, voltage at the headlamps with the country circuit, the bi-metallic blade heats up and sepa-
beam filament burning, should not be less than rates the contact points, opening the circuit. Then,
5.25 volts on 1955 models and 11.25 volts on 1956 until the short circuit is eliminated, the points will
models. With the lamps "on" and the engine open and close repeatedly.
warmed up and running at an approximate car
speed of 20 miles per hour, voltage at the head- Individual circuit breakers are rated (rating ap-
lamps should not be less than 6.3 volts, nor more pears on each unit) and should be tested at room
than 6.9 volts (1955) and not less than 12.3 volts, nor temperature because the current required to open
more than 13.5 volts (1956) with the battery and the contact points is affected by the outside temper-
generator at room temperature (70°). If voltage is ature. Under a normal current load the contact
low at either headlamp socket, with only standard points will remain closed indefinitely. Under a
equipment in the circuit, proceed as follows: double rated current load the contact points will
open within 60 seconds and will remain open for
Test the voltage output of the battery which about 10 seconds and then close. Do not attempt
should be 6 to 6.5 volts (1955) and 12 to 12.5 volts to readjust the points. If the circuit breaker does
(1956). Clean and tighten battery terminals and not function properly, replace with a new one.
ground cable. Check wires and connections to all
lamps, also the main headlamp switch and the Circuit breakers built into switches are es-
dimmer switch for high resistance. When a volt- sentially the same construction as individual cir-
meter is placed at the ground and input side of a cuit breakers. The constant speed windshield
switch and then between the ground and the output wiper motor uses a control switch containing a
side of a switch (with the lamps burning), the dif- built in circuit breaker to protect the motor. The
ference in readings will represent the voltage drop switch is serviced as an assembly. No attempt
in the switch. A switch showing a voltage drop of should be made to disassemble the switch for
more than 1/10 volt should be replaced. repair.
MyMopar.com
LIGHTING SYSTEM
MODELS P-26, P-27, P-28, P-29
Headlamps—Type Sealed Beam
Lower B e a m Control Foot Switch
H e a d l a m p Control 3 Position Rotary Switch
Stoplight Control Hydraulic Switch at Brake Master Cylinder
Instrument Lighting Indirect-Variable Resistance Control
Wiring Protection Circuit Breaker
MODELS P-26, P-27 P-28, P-29

Location Candle Power Lamp Number Candle Power Lamp> Number
Headlamp 45-35W 2422 40-50W 5400
Parking Lamp ( W / O Directional

Signals) 3 63 3 67
Parking Lamps
(With Directional Signals) 21-3 1154 32-4 1034
Tail a n d Stop Lamp

(With or Without Signals) 21-3 ll·54 32-4 1034
Direction Indicator Tell Tale 2 55 2 57

License Plate Lamp 3 63 3 67
Back-Up Lamp 21 1129 21 1141
H e a d l a m p B e a m Indicator 2 55 2 57
Dome Lamp 15 88 15 1004
Clock Lamp 2 55 2 57
Radio Dial Lamp 2 55 — 1892
G l o v e Box Lamp 2 55 2 57
Courtesy Lamp 21 1130 15 1004

Ignition Lock Lamp 1 51 2 57
Instrument Lamp 2 54 2 57
Trunk Compartment L a m p 15 87 15 1003

Generator Indicator Lamp — — 2 57
Oil Pressure Indicator Lamp — — 2 57
Automatic Transmission Lamp — — 2 57
Under Hood Lamp 15 209 15 1003

H a n d Brake S i g n a l Lamp 6 82 6 90
Fog Lamp 35W 4012A 35W 4412A

Spot Light 3OW 4535 3OW 4435
MyMopar.com
LIGHTING SYSTEM 125
Units which have individual circuit breaker switch. Wires lead off the headlamp switch and
protection are—the variable speed wiper motor feed current through the circuits. The panel lamp
attached to switch—power seat motor, convertible switch connects to the instrument lamps and reg-
top motor, window lift motor, all of which are lo- ulates the brightness by means of a built in
cated behind the left cowl panel. The headlight rheostat.
circuit is protected by a circuit breaker attached
to the headlamp switch. Tracing the source of trouble is accomplished
by checking each circuit individually. Remove one
wire at a time making certain that others are
3. TESTING LIGHTING CIRCUIT connected. When the faulty circuit is located,
check that particular circuit for shorts or opens in
It is good practice to make periodic inspections
the wire or for poor connections at the other end.
of the wiring in the lighting circuit. Inspect for
Use a jumper wire with a test lamp to determine if
loose or corroded connections and for chafed or
switches are at fault. Wires must be carefully in-
frayed insulation. Inspect the switches, bulb
spected for frayed or worn insulation which may
sockets and lamp shells for looseness and corro- cause a momentary grounding and result in
sion. Clean and tighten where necessary to flickering lights due to vibration when driving
prevent loss of efficiency due to poor or dirty over rough roads. Inspect the connections and
connections. sockets at the taillamp, panel lamps, license
A test lamp can be used to test the headlamp lamps, and parking lamps for poor ground, dirt,
switch. Disconnect the wire or wires from the corrosion or loose wiring.
switch terminal that feeds the circuit or circuits.
Connect a test lamp to the post on the switch where TESTING DOME LIGHT AND GLOVE BOX LAMP
the circuit wire or wires were connected and Remove lens and inspect bulb and socket. Re-
ground the test lamp. If the lamp lights with the move all wire from "A" terminal of headlamp
switch on, the switch is functioning properly. switch. Connect test lamp from "A" terminal to
Therefore the circuit or circuits should be checked ground. If lamp lights, circuit breaker is function-
for opens or grounds. If the test lamp does not ing properly. Connect dome lamp lead to "A"
light, the switch is at fault and the switch should terminal and connect test lamp to the end of the
be replaced. wire at the dome lamp and ground the test lamp.
Check both the "A" and "B" post switches with
TESTING TAILLAMPS, LICENSE LAMP, PANEL LAMP the test lamp. The glove box lamp circuit can also
SWITCH, DIMMER SWITCH, PARKING LAMPS, AND be checked in the same manner.
IGNITION-STARTER SWITCH LIGHT CIRCUIT
First make certain that there are no shorts or 4. AIMING THE HEADLAMPS
open circuits in the connections to the headlamp There are many different types of aiming equip-
ment which will produce accurate aiming provided
that the manufacturer's instructions are followed.
However, an aiming screen can also produce
satisfactory results.
To aim the headlights, use an aiming screen or
a light colored wall and make certain the car is on
a level floor 25 feet from the screen or wall. Four
lines are required on the screen or wall: A hori-
1 — Upper beam of right headlamp.

2 — Upper beams of both headlamps.
3 — Horizontal line 3 inches below headlamp centers on
1955 models and 2 inches below on 1956 models.
4 — Vertical line in line with center of left headlamp.
5 — Vertical line in line with the windshield center strip.
34x179 6 — Vertical line in line with the center of the right
Figure 1 — Pattern of Beam from Properly headlamp.
Aimed Headlamps 7 — Floor level.
MyMopar.com
zontal line 3 inches below the centers of the head- ONE LIGHT FAILS
lamps (as required in most states); a center vertical
J. BULB OR SEALED BEAM UNIT—Inspect for
line which must be lined up with the hood orna-
corrosion at socket terminals, loose connections at
ment; a vertical line on the left of screen in line
sockets, or for a defective bulb.
with the center of the left headlamp; and a vertical
line on the right of the screen in line with the center 2. CONNECTIONS—Inspect all connections for
of the right headlamp. See Figure 1. looseness.
With the car in front of the aiming screen at the 3. WIRING—Inspect for a broken wire with a
specified distance, remove the headlamp door. test light from terminal block to socket or for an
Adjust the top adjusting screw for vertical adjust- improperly grounded bulb socket housing with
ment, and the side screw for horizontal adjustment. jumper from housing to ground.
See Figure 2. Adjust one headlamp at a time with
the other one covered. Aiming the high beam will 4. SWITCHES
also properly aim the low beam. (a) Dome Light Switch—Check each of the two
dome light switches with jumper wire, by jumping
directly from the dome light wire to ground.
IMPORTANT
(b) Stop Light Switch—Test by using a jumper
Never use the low beam for aiming the wire across the leads of the stop light switch.
headlamps. If headlamp testing equipment is
used, follow the instructions provided by the ALL LIGHTS FAIL
manufacturer of the tester.
J. BATTERY—Test battery. Inspect for loose or
defective cables and for corroded battery
terminals.
5. HEADLAMP AND PANEL LAMP 2. WIRING—Inspect for poor grounds, or for a
SWITCHES short circuit in the lighting circuit.
The headlamp switch and the panel lamp switch 3. SWITCHES—Install a new head light switch
are held in the instrument panel by a common if stop light operates and all other lights fail.
threaded sleeve and hex nut. The panel lamp knob
indexes on its switch shaft by means of lugs in the 4. CIRCUIT BREAKER—If battery and wiring are
knob and slots in the shaft. The headlamp knob is in good condition, but lights will not operate or
held on its respective shaft by means of a recessed only part of the lighting circuit does not operate it
hex screw. may be due to a faulty circuit breaker in the head-
lamp switch. Use a test lamp to check circuit
breaker.
DIM HEADLIGHTS
GROUND VERTICAL
(ENGINE IDLING OR SHUT OFF) ADJUSTING
SCREW
1. BATTERY — Test for a weak or discharged
battery, loose or defective cables, or for corroded
battery terminals.
2. WIRING AND SWITCHES—Test wiring and
switches in lighting circuit for voltage drop.
DIM HEADLIGHTS
(ENGINE RUNNING ABOVE IDLE WITH
BATTERY FULLY CHARGED)
1. WIRING AND SWITCHES—Test wiring and HORIZONTAL
switches in lighting circuit for voltage drop. ADJUSTING
SCREW 49x683
2. GENERATOR—Test for low output or high
resistance in generator brushes. Figure 2 — H e a d l a m p Adjustment Screws
MyMopar.com
127
SECTION X
INSTRUMENTS, GAUGES, HORNS, AND

ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER
Page
1. Instruments and Gauges 127
2. Horns 132
3. Electric Windshield Wiper 133
1. INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES

CONSTANT FIELD POLE VARIABLE FIELD
(EMPTY POSITION) SHOES (FULL POSITION)
AMMETER
TANK UNIT
The calibration of ammeters on 1955 models can
be checked by connecting a variable carbon pile
resistor and a test ammeter in series with the am-
meter. Make sure all terminals are clean and
connections are tight.
GENERATOR INDICATOR LAMP
A generator indicator lamp is used on 1956

models. The lamp is connected between the arma-
ture terminal of the voltage regulator and the
ignition terminal of the starter and ignition switch.
STARTER-IGNITION SWITCH
The indicator lamp indicates that generator output (NOTE—FUEL GAUGE
voltage is normal when the lamp goes out. This OPERATES ONLY WHEN
IGNITION SWITCH IS
occurs just above normal engine idle speed. See TURNED ON) 55P1083
electrical diagrams in back pages of manual.
Figure 1 — Electro-Magnetic Fuel Gauge Circuit
ELECTRO-MAGNETIC FUEL GAUGE

The tank unit is locked in position by a retainer
The electro-magnetic fuel gauge is used on all plate and rubber seal. The retainer can be re-
Plymouth cars except the Suburban. The fuel moved by using a special tool DD-1170 when it is
gauge consists of a panel unit and tank unit con- necessary to service the tank unit. See Figure 3.
nected by a single wire. The panel unit has two
magnetic circuits, each with a coil to produce a TESTING ELECTRO-MAGNETIC GAUGE
magnetic field. The constant field coil is grounded TESTING WIRE FROM STARTER —IGNITION
internally and exerts a constant pull on the pointer SWITCH TO PANEL UNIT—Turn switch to acces-
toward the empty mark when the ignition is turned sory position. Connect one wire of a test lamp to
on. The variable field coil is grounded through the the stud terminal of the panel unit and the other
tank unit and exerts a pull on the pointer toward
wire to ground. If the lamp lights, circuit is good.
the full mark. The tank unit contains a resistor and
a contact finger which moves as the float moves. TESTING PANEL AND TANK UNIT FOR
A strong magnetic field is induced in the variable GROUND—Both units must have a good ground to
field coil when the tank fuel rises and gradually operate properly. Turn ignition to accessory posi-
weakens as the level is reduced. See Figure 1. tion. Use a jumper wire to temporarily ground each
MyMopar.com
RETAINER
IMPORTANT
GAUGE ASSY.
To get a good electrical contact at terminals,
SEAL place a shake-proof type washer on the ter-
minal stud before installing the wire. Then use
another washer under the nut. The prongs of
the washer will dig into the mounting and
``>v form a good contact.
TESTING PANEL AND TANK UNITS—If previ-

ous tests indicate that the panel unit is receiving
current when the starter-ignition switch is turned
on, that both the panel and tank units are properly
grounded, and that the wire between the units is
good — then test the panel and tank units as
x follows:
55P1087
Use a spare tank unit known to be in good con-
Figure 2 — Fuel Gauge Tank Unit dition. Disconnect the plug-in terminal at the panel
unit. Connect the spare tank unit to the plug-in
terminal on the panel unit and ground the tank
unit with a jumper wire. Move the float arm of the
tank unit up and down. If the panel unit registers
correctly, the tank unit in the car is faulty and
should be replaced. If the panel unit does not
register when the arm of the spare tank unit is
moved up and down—the panel unit is faulty and
should be replaced.
TESTING TANK UNIT REMOVED—Connect a
test lamp from the battery and connect the ground
side of the bulb to a jumper leading to the tank
unit terminals. Connect a jumper from the tank
unit case to the other side of the battery. With the
float in the full position, the bulb should burn
almost at full brilliance. When the float arm is
Figure 3 — Removing Retainer with Tool DD-1170 lowered, the light should decrease steadily in
brightness, until it will barely be visible.
The test will only show if the tank unit is func-
unit at the case. If the gauge unit changes when tioning. It will not indicate exact calibration. It is
the temporary ground is made, see that the case important to use care when installing a tank unit
of the unit under test is properly grounded. Clean so as not to bend the arm which will cause an error
and tighten the mounting screws on the panel unit. in the panel unit reading. Always compare the
Clean the contacting surface of the tank unit and tank units with a new one to make sure that the
make sure the retainer is tight. rod angle is correct.
TESTING WIRE BETWEEN PANEL UNIT AND
TANK UNIT—Disconnect the wire at both ends. THERMOSTATIC FUEL GAUGE
Turn on ignition switch. Connect a test lamp to the
accessory terminal of the starter—ignition switch. The thermostatic type fuel gauge is used only
If the lamp lights, the wire is grounded and must on Suburban models. The fuel gauge consists of a
be repaired or replaced. If the lamp does not light, panel unit and a tank unit connected by two wires.
ground the opposite end of the wire. The lamp See Figure 4. The panel unit contains two bimetal
should light. If it does not, the wire is broken and blades heated by resistance wires wound around
must be replaced. each blade. See Figure 5.
MyMopar.com
INSTRUMENTS, GAUGES, HORNS, AND ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER 129
TERMINAL NO. 2 TERMINAL NO. !

WIRE 1
BI-METAL BLADE
(HEATED) -METAL BLADE
WIRE 2 (HEATED)
BI-METAL BLADE
(NOT HEATED) ,, -METAL BLADE
TANK UNIT (NOT HEATED)
CALIBRATING
ARM
CALIBRATING
3‰r-ARM
If car is radio-equipped
install interference filter
on back of gauge.
STARTER IGNITION SWITCH
CIRCUIT BREAKER
POINTS x, POINTER
COUNTERWEIGHT
56P176
Figure 4 — Thermostat¡c Fuel Gauge Circuit Figure 5 — Thermostat¡c Fuel Gauge
The terminals on the panel unit marked "I" and to dirty circuit breaker points. Clean the points
"2" are connected by separate wires to their re- by drawing a strip of sandpaper between them.
spective terminals on the tank unit. If the pointer has a tendency to stick or bind, free
it up by aligning the bearings, or adjusting the
When fuel level changes, the float arm moves a end play. This can be done by carefully bending
contact finger across a resistance in the tank unit. the bearing supports.
This varies the current to each winding in the
panel unit, raising and lowering the temperature TESTING WIRES FROM PANEL UNIT TO TANK
of the bimetal blades. The blades bend depending UNIT—If the wires at terminals on the tank unit
upon the heat received from the winding, moving are reversed the panel unit will show "empty"
the gauge pointer. when the tank is "full."
If the wires at terminals are grounded or open
Due to the heating of the bimetal blades, the
circuited, the panel unit readings will vary. The
thermostatic type fuel gauge action is slow. Thus
wires can be checked in the following manner.
the pointer does not react instantly to sudden
Make sure that panel unit is operating properly.
changes in fuel level. When the ignition switch is
Remove tank unit and ground case of tank unit
turned off, the bimetal blades deflect away from
body with a jumper wire. Refer to the Fuel Gauge
the pointer. A counter-weight brings the pointer
Readings Chart for gauge readings under varying
back to a stop below the empty reading.
grounded or open circuited conditions. For exam-
TESTING THERMOSTATIC FUEL GAUGE—Be- ple, when the float arm is placed in the empty, ½
fore checking the panel unit and tank unit, inspect full, and full position, and the gauge readings are
the terminals for poor contact, looseness, or corro- empty, ¼ full and ½ full, respectively, the No. 1
sion. Test the gauge by using a spare tank unit wire is grounded.
known to be operating correctly. Disconnect the
wires at the terminals on the tank unit and connect FUEL GAUGE READINGS
them to corresponding terminals on the spare tank
unit. Connect a ground wire from the case of the Wire Wire Wire Wire
unit to the car body. No. 1 No. 2 No. 1 No. 2
Position of
float arm grounded grounded open open
Turn the ignition switch on and allow approxi-
mately one minute for the panel unit to heat up. Empty Empty ½ full ½ full Empty
Then move the float arm. If the panel unit does not ½ full ¼ full ¾ full ¾ full Empty
indicate correctly, the panel unit is at fault. An Full ½ full Full Full Empty
inoperative or fluctuating panel unit may be due
MyMopar.com
INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES

MODEL P-26, P-27 P-28, P-29

Gauge
Electro-magnetic (All except Suburban)

Fuel
Type
Thermostatic (Suburban)
Type Sea Shell
Number (1) Plaza, (2) Savoy a n d Belvedere

Horns
8.5 amps, at 12.4 volts

Amperage Draw 3 0 amps.
at e a c h horn terminal
Location Behind Radiator Grille
Electric—Constant Speed (Standard)

Wiper Motor
Types
Windshield
Electric—Variable Speed (Special Equipment)
Circuit Constant Speed—Built into Switch

Breaker
Location Variable Speed—Attached to Switch
ÄD]USTING PANEL UNIT—Remove the panel TEMPERATURE GAUGE

unit from the car and position it on a bench in the
The electro-magnetic temperature gauge con-
same manner it is mounted on the instrument
sists of an engine sending unit and a panel unit
panel. It is important that the unit be shielded connected by a single wire. The panel unit con-
against air currents which would cause a calibra- sists of two coils which produce two magnetic
tion error. Connect the "SW" terminal of the panel fields. A constant field exerts a constant pull on
unit to a battery. Connect a tank unit to the panel the indicator toward the cold mark when the
unit and make sure that No. 1 and No. 2 wires are ignition switch is turned on. The variable field
connected to their respective terminals. Connect exerts a pull toward the hot mark. The magnetic
the case of the tank unit to the other battery post. pull from the variable field changes as the resist-
ance in the engine sending unit changes.
Allow the unit about 1 minute to warm up and
The engine sending unit contains a carbon re-
then move the float arm to the empty position. If
sistor. Its resistance increases as coolant tempera-
the pointer stops short of the empty mark, loosen tures decrease. As coolant temperatures increase,
the "SW" terminal nut and move the left calibrat- the resistance decreases.
ing arm to the right. If the pointer goes beyond the
empty mark move the calibrating arm to the left. TESTING TEMPERATURE GAUGE—Before per-
forming tests on the gauge, inspect the wires of
Move the float arm to the full position. Adjust the temperature gauge circuit for worn, frayed,
the right calibrating arm to the right to raise the or broken wires. Clean terminals at the panel unit
pointer and to the left to lower it. Check the and engine sending unit. Check the battery
voltage.
settings by moving the float arm to the empty
and full positions. Readjust calibrating arms if Remove the sending unit from the cylinder head
necessary. and ground the unit to the car with a jumper wire.
MyMopar.com
Place the unit in a container of hot water with a Inspect the housing for evidence of kinks. If a
thermometer. Do not immerse unit. Make sure that cable sticks or binds as it is inserted in the housing,
top of sending unit or the terminal does not get wet. the housing is damaged inside and should be re-
The gauge should indicate approximately the placed.
same temperature as the thermometer. Use the
temperature chart to determine the degrees Fahr- The speedometer drive pinion should also be
enheit. In most cases, if the first four readings checked. If the pinion is dry or teeth are stripped,
correspond to the temperature chart, it can be the speedometer may not register properly.
assumed that the gauge is accurate for the entire The transmission main shaft nut must be tight
range. If the entire range is to be checked, it will or the speedometer gear may slip on the main
be necessary to use a liquid with a higher boiling shaft and cause slow speed readings. Proper
point than water. torque on main shaft nut is 95 to 105 foot pounds.
If gauge readings do not correspond, use a new LUBRICATING SPEEDOMETER CABLE —The
engine sending unit known to be accurate, and speedometer cable should be lubricated with
again check the temperature gauge readings. Speedometer Cable Lubricant every 10,000 miles.
Another method, although not as accurate, can Fill the ferrule at the upper end of the housing.
be used to test the gauge. Run the engine indoors Insert the cable in the housing, starting at the
at a fast idle with a cover over the radiator until upper end. Turn the cable as it is fed into the
the thermostat is open, and place a thermometer housing. Repeat filling the ferrule except for the
in the top tank of the radiator. The gauge should last six inches of the cable. Too much lubricant at
register approximately the same temperature as this point may cause the lubricant to work into the
the thermometer. indicating head.
LUBRICATING SPEEDOMETER HEAD — The
TEMPERATURE CHART
speedometer head should be lubricated every
10,000 miles with Speedometer Lubricating Oil.
Degrees Fahrenheit Gauge Indication Remove the oil tube from the housing and put a
lOO°-HO°F At cold mark few drops of oil on the wick in the tube. Reinstall
tube.
l45°-l55°F Start of normal bar
INSTALLING SPEEDOMETER CABLE AND
l8O°F (Approx.) Center of normal bar
HOUSING—If a new cable and housing is to be
2I5°-225°F End of normal bar installed, always check both for kinks. Use wide,
23O°-24O°F
sweeping, gradual curves where cable comes out
At hot mark
of transmission and connects to speedometer head
to prevent damage to the cable. Care should be
SPEEDOMETER exercised when installing the assembly to prevent
kinking the cable due to rough handling.
The speedometer consists of an indicating head
and the speedometer drive cable. In addition to SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL—The
speed, the speedometer records mileage on its seal on the speedometer pinion may wear causing
odometer. If speedometer fails to indicate speed transmission lubricant to be pumped into speed-
and mileage, inspect for a broken drive cable. ometer cable housing. When the lubricant is
SPEEDOMETER CABLE—Most cables are extremely cold, the cable channels through it and
broken due to lack of lubrication. In some in- rubs against the housing, causing noise. After
stances a cable may break due to binding mech- cable runs a while, lubricant thins out and the
anism in the indicating head. A "jumpy" pointer noise should disappear. To correct this, wipe all
may be due to a kink in the cable. The kinked transmission lubricant off cable, apply Speedome-
cable rubs on the housing and winds up slightly, ter drive pinion seal before reinserting the cable.
slowing down the mechanism. It then unwinds
and causes the pointer to jump.To check for kinks OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
remove the cable from the housing and lay it on a
flat surface. Twist one end with the fingers. If the The oil pressure gauge used on 1955 models can
cable turns over smoothly, the cable is not kinked. be checked by connecting another gauge into line
If it "flops" over as it is twisted, the cable is kinked as shown in Figure 6. Check engine oil level. After
and should be replaced. engine is at normal operating temperature, com-
MyMopar.com
pare pressure readings for idle and normal driving

speeds.
An air leak in the oil gauge tube or oil in the oil
gauge tube can cause the pointer to vibrate. The
air in the tube cushions the oil pressure relief valve
pulsations. Clean out plugged tube orifice with
a pin.
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LAMP

The oil pressure indicator lamp used on 1956
models is connected between the oil pressure
switch and the ignition terminal of the starter and
ignition switch. When oil pressure exceeds 8 to 12
55P1088 p.s.i. the switch contacts open and the indicator
lamp goes out. The light may be on during idle
Figure 6 — Testing Oil Gauge
speeds and will go out at speeds above idle. The
switch operating pressure can be checked by con-
necting a pressure gauge in the line with the
switch. The switch is located at the rear of the
block, at the top on Hy-Fire V-8 engines and at the
left side of the cylinder block at the rear on Power-
Flow 6 engines.
2. HORNS
The horns are operated by a relay feed through
the ignition switch and can be operated only when
the ignition is turned on. They are located behind
the radiator grille. The high note horn is located
at the left and the low note on the right.
If horns do not operate or do not have a clear
tone, they should be removed and inspected for
COVER RETAINING CUPS 52x343
faulty wiring, broken insulation, or corroded con-
tact points. Contact points should be carefully
Figure 7 — Removing Horn Cover dressed down with a clean fine file.
ADJUSTMENTS
To remove the cover, pry the retaining clips

away as shown in Figure 7. Loosen the locknut,
and turn the adjustment screw until there is no
vibration. See Figure 8. Then, turn screw counter-
clockwise ¼ turn or until a clear tone is obtained.
Horns must be adjusted individually. After adjust-
ments are made, try both horns for combined tone.
DO NOT DISTURB HORN CONTROL

THIS NUT
The horns are operated by a horn blowing bar
or ring depending upon the model of car. Both
contain a center ornament that must be removed to
disassemble the bar or ring. To disassemble the
ARMATURE SPRING `^ ^ -¾¾ 5 2 x 3 4 4 horn control, depress the center ornament and
rotate it counter-clockwise to disengage it from
Figure 8—Adjusting Horn the ring or bar.
MyMopar.com
WHEEL
WIRE
ORNAMENT-
BUSHING AND SLEEVE PACKAGE
55P1082
Figure 9 — Horn Control—Disassembled
Remove the ornament, cushion, and retaining The variable speed motor has an "off glass park-
spring. Remove the three retaining screws and lift ing" feature which is accomplished by reversing
off the bar or ring and the contact plate. See the motor and the use of parking cams at the pivot
Figure 9. pins of the intermediate crank arm. When the
switch is turned to the "off" position, the motor
A car equipped with the two-piece type horn reverses direction and at the same time the park-
ring (special equipment), can be disassembled by ing cams rotate 180 degrees, lengthening the link-
first removing the horn ring cover. The cover is age slightly to park the blades against the mould-
held to the ring by four screws accessible from ing. The linkage shortens when the motor runs in
underneath the ring. the wiping direction.
WIPER BLADE ADJUSTMENT

3. ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER To properly position wiper blades, adjust the
parking cam at the motor switch plate so that
The windshield wiper motor is connected blades park as low as possible. Then loosen the
through the fuel gauge to the starter-ignition blade arms at the pivots. Position the blades
switch so that the motor will not operate unless the against the windshield moulding on variable
ignition switch key is turned to the right or left speed motors and tighten pivot attaching nuts.
position. See Figures 10 and 11. The constant speed Position blades of constant speed motors one inch
motor is protected by a circuit breaker built into from the windshield moulding.
the windshield wiper switch. The variable speed
motor is protected by a circuit breaker which is REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
attached to the "B" terminal of the switch. Both The wiper is mounted to the cowl panel by
motors use the same wiper blades, arm assembly means of studs in the panel and a mounting
and pivots. Convertible and Sport Coupe blades, bracket on the motor. Remove the radio (if so
arms, and pivots differ from other models. equipped) to facilitate the removal of the wiper
MyMopar.com
16 BLUE- •16 BLACK

•16 BLACK.
CONSTANT SPEED
WIPER MOTOR
VARIABLE SPEED
WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR SWITCH
VARIABLE SPEED
WINDSHIELD WIPER WINDSHIELD WIPER
12
SWITCH WITH BUILT-
RED CIRCUIT BREAKER
IN CIRCUIT BREAKER
FUEL GAUGE
55P1064
56P181
Figure 10 —Windshield Wiper Circuit Diagram Figure 11 — Windshield Wiper Circuit Diagram
(Constant Speed Motor) (Variable Speed Motor)
motor. Disconnect the wiper links at the pivots. plate assembly. Remove crank arm nut, washers,
Remove the motor bracket nuts. Lower the motor crank arm, gear and armature in that order.
and remove it from the right side. Use care so as
not to bend the links.
NOTE
When installing the motor on the studs, do not
When only the switch plate on variable
tighten nuts until the pivot ends of the links are
speed motors is removed, position the crank
secured. Make sure the nylon pivot insert does
arm 180° from the park position. This is done
not bind on the pivot pin. Lubricate the insert
to disengage the spring follower from the
with driplessƒ heavy type lubricant. The nylon
tang on the switch plate.
insert is not replaceable.
INSPECTION
CAUTION
Thoroughly inspect the motor parts for wear, cor-
Keep hands and fingers away from the
windshield wiper operating linkage when the
rosion or damage. Clean the armature commu-
wiper motor is running. The power of the wiper
tator with 00 or 000 sandpaper or if necessary turn
motor is sufficient to cause serious personal
down the commutator. Replace worn or oil soaked
injury.
brushes. Check the armature and crankshaft in
their respective bushings and replace worn parts
if any looseness is detected. End play in the arma-
ture shaft is controlled by a thin thrust washer in
the end plate. Inspect gears for worn or broken
RECONDITIONING WIPER MOTOR
teeth and replace those showing damage or exces-
CONSTANT SPEED MOTOR—To disassemble sive wear. Be sure that the parking switch contact
the motor, remove the switch plate first. Then re- is clean and dry.
move motor crank nut, washers and motor crank
arm. Lift out nylon gear. Remove end head through REFACING COMMUTATOR
bolts and carefully pull off end head. Armature
can then be removed. If the armature commutator is rough, out of
round, burned, or the bakelite material is even
VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR—Remove end head with or extends above the surface of the commu-
through bolts and pull out end head using care so tator bars, the commutator should be turned down.
as not to break the lead wire to the brush holder. Remove only enough metal to provide a clean
Remove switch plate and cover screws. .Rotate smooth surface. Operation can be performed on a
armature in reverse so that tang in switch plate suitable lathe or by using tool C-770 shown in
will disengage gear follower to permit removal oí Figure 13.
MyMopar.com
LEAD WIRES
BRUSH & SPRING PKG
SWITCH -
Figure 12—Windshield Wiper Motor—Disassembled (Constant Speed)
ARMATURE
CUTTING TOOL
/ CUTTING TOOL SPECIAL
CHUCK
UNDERCUTTING
TOOL * a. UNDERCUTTING
TOOL
\. COMMUTATOR «;
Figure 13 — Refac¡ng Commutator Figure 14 — Undercutting Commutator Segments

MyMopar.com
BLADE
WASHER
RETAINER
GASKET
CLAMP
SCREW & WASHER
ARM
^ G E A R
KEY' I q¦f- CONTACT FOLLOWER
WASHERS"*" GASKET
j SWITCH PLATE ASSY
BRUSH & SPRING PKG

-KNOB
Figure 1 5 — Windshield Wiper Motor—Disassembled (Variable Speed)
UNDERCUTTING BAKELITE the commutator. Rap the motor frame several

sharp blows with rubber hammer to align the
Undercut the bakelite segments to a depth of brushes.
1/16 inch, using tool C-770 with special blade
SP-839, as shown in Figure 14f or a fine tooth hack- WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH
saw blade. Be sure to undercut the bakelite
squarely. After undercutting, polish the commu- CONSTANT SPEED MOTOR—The switch con-
tator with 00 or 000 sandpaper to remove burred tains a built in circuit breaker to protect the motor
edges. and is serviced only as an assembly. To test the
switch, disconnect the lead wires and remove the
switch from the instrument panel. Connect a test
CAUTION lamp between "B" terminal of the switch and the
negative battery post. Connect the positive battery
Be sure the commutator is clean and free
terminal to the "P" terminal of the post. The lamp
from oil or grease. A dirty, greasy commutator
should light when the switch is in the "off" position
will cause a high resistance and greatly impair
and go out when the switch is turned to the "on"
the efficiency of the wiper.
position.
Connect the positive battery to the "R" terminal
Assemble the frame, armature and head, being of the switch. The lamp should light when the
careful to raise the brushes to allow entrance of switch is turned "on" and go out when turned "off."
MyMopar.com
VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR—The switch con- VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR—Connect the yel-
tains a bar resistance plate which provides a low wire to the motor ground strap. Connect the
means of controlling the amount of current flow battery positive terminal to the motor ground
to the motor field as the switch control shaft is strap. Connect the red and black wires to the bat-
rotated. In addition, the switch is designed to pro- tery negative terminal. The motor should run in
vide a circuit to the motor to reverse the direction the wipe direction.
of the current to the field winding thus providing a To park the motor, connect the blue and yellow
means of reversing the armature. A replaceable wire to the battery negative terminal. Connect the
circuit breaker is attached to the "B" terminal of
battery positive terminal to the motor ground
the switch to protect the motor.
strap. Connect the red wire to the motor ground
To test the switch, disconnect the lead wires and strap. Momentarily touch the black wire to the
remove the switch. Connect a wire from the bat- yellow and blue wire. Motor should park.
tery positive terminal to the case of the switch Correct indexing of the contact plate (constant
and another wire from the battery positive termi- speed motor) or the contact follower (variable
nal to the "Fl" terminal of the switch. Connect a speed motor) on the nylon gear is important. After
test lamp between the battery negative terminal the armature, nylon gear, and crank arm are in-
and the "B" terminal of the switch. Lamp should stalled, index the contact plate (constant speed
light when switch is turned on and gradually dim motor) on the nylon gear with the slot pointing in
as switch is rotated clockwise. Lamp should go out the same direction as the motor crank arm. See
when switch is turned "off." The switch is serviced Figure 16. Install the contact follower (variable
only as an assembly. speed motor) with open end pointing in same
direction as motor crank arm. See Figure 17.
BENCH TESTING MOTOR
VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR LINKAGE
Before bench testing a motor, the lead wires
should be inspected for opens or shorts, and for It is important that the linkage and eccentrics
poor connections at the switch plate. Inspect andbe installed correctly on the pivot pins. Install the
clean if required the breaker points on the variable
spring washer, concave side down over the inter-
speed motor. Use fine grade sandpaper across the mediate crank arm pin. Slide the link spring over
contact points. the pin against the washer by slightly spreading
the ends. The spring prevents slippage in the
CONSTANT SPEED MOTOR—Connect the bat- running direction and allows 180° slippage on the
tery positive terminal to the wiper motor ground pin when the motor reverses to park the blades.
strap. Connect the black and blue wires of the
motor to the negative battery terminal. Motor When assembling right linkage install link
should continue to run. Remove black wire with spring trip to engage spring ends with the "R" on
blue connected. Motor should park. the trip up to match the "R" on the intermediate
CONTACT PLATE. MOTOR CRANK MOTOR CRANK

CONTACT
ARM ARM
FOLLOWER
GEAR
GEAR
PARKING
SWITCH
Figure 16 — Contact Plate Installed Figure 1 7 — Contact Follower

(Constant Speed Motor) (Variable Speed Motor)
MyMopar.com
LINK SPRING
INTERMEDIATE
TRIP INTERMEDIATE CRANK ARM
CRANK ARM RIGHT LINK
PARKING CAM
(ECCENTRIC)
55P1071
LINK SPRING
55P1070
Figure 18 — Link Spring Trip Installed Figure 19 — Link Arm Installed

(Variable Speed Motor) (Variable Speed Motor)
crank arm. This is important to parking of the horn for an open circuit. If horn blows, connect a
blades. See Figure 18. When assembling left hand jumper from the horn relay "GRD" terminal to
linkage "L" mark on link should be up to match ground. If horn blows, inspect the horn button wire
"L" on intermediate crank arm. and horn button contacts for open circuit. If horn
does not blow, connect test lamp from horn relay
Then install the eccentric (parking cam) so that "BAT" terminal to ground. If light does not light
it indexes in the link spring trip. Install right and inspect the wire from the starter solenoid to the
left links (marked "L" and "R") to their respective horn relay for open circuit. Connect the test lamp
pins. Refer to Figure 19. Place the link washer from horn relay "IGN" terminal to ground. If light
over pin. Install right link assembly in motor crank does not light, inspect the wire from the coil to the
arm and secure with washer and nut. Left assem- horn relay for an open circuit. If light operates in
bly is secured to left pin with a spring clip. both of these tests, the relay is at fault and should
be replaced.
HORNS BLOW CONTINUOUSLY
HORNS WILL NOT BLOW
(Horn Control Not Sticking)
1. HORN ADJUSTMENT—Adjust horns as out-
lined under Horns—Adjustment. See Figure 8. 1. WIRING—Inspect wiring for ground between
horn switch and relay. Remove cable from relay
2. HORN—Turn ignition switch to "on" position. ground terminal. If horn stops blowing, ground is
Connect jumper wire from battery negative termi- either in column cable or horn control.
nal to the horn terminal at horn. If horn does not
blow, horn is at fault. 2. HORN RELAY—Inspect wiring at horns for
shorts. Remove the green wire from the relay. If
horn stops blowing, replace the horn relay.
CAUTION
WIPER FAILS TO OPERATE
Do not loosen the lock nut in the center of
either horn or the diaphragm may become J. SWITCH—Inspect for loose connections and
damaged. correct wiring at switch. Replace switch with a
new one to determine if switch is at fault.
2. LINKAGE—Inspect linkage for misalignment
3. HORN RELAY—lí the horn blows in the or binding and repair and lubricate as required.
above test, connect the jumper from the battery to
the horn relay terminal marked "Horn." If horn 3. WIRING—Inspect wiring for opens or
does not blow, inspect wire from horn relay to grounds between switch and motor.
MyMopar.com
INSTRUMENTS, GAUGES, HORNS, A N D ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER 139
WIPER OPERATES SLOWLY necessary at the pivots to even up blade position.

J. RESISTANCE — Inspect the motor brushes 2. SWITCH—Make certain that lead wires are
and commutator for dirt or carbon deposits in slots. tight in switch and are installed in proper socket.
2. GROUND STRAP—Check for high resistance
3. CONTACT POINTS—Clean contact points at
at ground strap. Clean area with fine sandpaper.
switch plate (variable speed znotor) with fine sand-
3. LINKAGE—Inspect linkage for binding, mis- paper. Inspect contact spring leaf on switch plate
alignment and lack of lubrication.
for excessive tension which would prevent points
4. WIRE TERMINALS — Inspect terminals for from separating.
poor contact, dirt and looseness.
4. LINK SPRING TRIP—lí blades slap mould-
WIPER FAILS TO PARK ing and park high on glass on the variable speed
1. ADJUSTMENT — Readjust parking lever at motor, the link spring trip is installed incorrectly.
motor switch plate. Further adjustment may be See page 138 for correct assembly of linkage.
CIRCUIT BREAKER A N D FUSE CHART
MODELS P-26f P-27 P-28, P-29
Headlamps 3 0 amp.—C. B. 2 0 amp.—C. B.
Radio 14 amp.—Fuse 9 amp.—Fuse
Clock 3 amp.—Fuse 2 amp.—Fuse
W. S. Wiper Motor C. B.—in switch

C. B.—in switch
(constant speed)
W. S. Wiper Motor C. B.—8 amp.
(variable speed) C. B.—10 amp.
MyMopar.com
FUEL SYSTEM
P-27 P-29
MODEL P-26 P¯28
241 Cu. In. 260 Cu. In. 270 Cu. In. 277 Cu. In.
Type Downdraft (Single) Downdraft (Dual)
Standard 2063 SA 2293S 2141S 2259S 2422S 24O7S

Á
Carb uretor
Overdrive 2062 SA 2294S 2154S 226OS 2423S 24O8S

Is
PowerFlite 2116 SA 2295S 2155S 226 IS 2424S 24O9S
Standard 120-199S 120-215S 120-21 IS 120-213S 120-209S

•M
s ¾ One Size Lean 120-205S 120-214S 120-21 OS 120-212S 120-21 IS
1—»
Choke Control Automatic
Float Setting 7/32 in.
1-1/32 in.
Accelerator Pump 27/32 ± 1/64 in. 1 ± 1/64 in.
± 1/64 in.
Fast Idle .022 to .026 in. .015 to .019 in. .014 in.
to
I Unloader
3 Idle Mixture
9/64 in.
1/2 to 1-1/2 turns

1/4 in. 3/16 in.
l`
Car buretor
Overdrive 1/64 to 3/64 in. clearance between the kickdown lever

Kickdown Switch and switch stem guide
PowerFlite 3/32 in. inward movement of plunger after throttle is

Dashpot completely closed
Type Mechanical Diaphragm
Pressure 4 to 5-1/2 P.S.I. 5 to 6-1/2 P.S.I.
Make Carter Auto-Lite
Fuel Tank Capacity 17 gals.
Fuel Filter Oilite in Fuel Tank
Manifold Heat Control Thermostatic—Automatic
Air Cleaner Oil Bath
MyMopar.com
141
SECTION XI
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS
Page
Data and Specifications 140, 158, 172
1. Fuel Tank 141
2. Fuel Pump 141
3. Automatic Choke 143
4. Automatic Choke—Crossover 145
5. Carburetor-PowerFlow 6 and Hy-Fire V-8 146
6. Carburetor—PowerFlow 6—Two Barrel 157
7. Carburetor—Four Barrel 167
8. Manifold Heat Control 177
9. Intake and Exhaust Manifold 178
10. Exhaust Pipe, Muffler, and Tail Pipe 180
1. FUEL TANK
DRA!N PLUG
The fuel tank contains an Oilite filter through FUEL GAUGE
which gasoline passes as it is drawn by the fuel

pump. See Figure 1. The filter requires no servic-
ing, since it is self cleaning, due to the surging
action of gasoline on the suction surface of the
filter. The filter is located ¾ inch above the bottom
of the tank; therefore, approximately three pints of
water and sediment can collect below the filter. It
is good practice to remove water and sediment
which may collect in the bottom of the fuel tank
about once a year. Remove the drain plug pro-
vided when the fuel level is lowƒ and drain off the
accumulated sediment and water.
If water or steam is used when cleaning a fuel FILTERING ELEMENT
tank, drain the tank thoroughly. Then, using com- Figure 1 — Fuel Tank and Filter
pressed air, blow air through the Oilite filter ele-
ment, holding the air hose at the fuel line.
2. FUEL PUMP line at the vent indicates a leak through the dia-
phragm. Oil at the vent indicates a defective oil
The fuel pump is operated by an eccentric on
seal at the top of the pull rod. In either case the
the camshaft which actuates the rocker arm. This
diaphragm assembly must be replaced.
action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm assembly
upwards against the diaphragm spring creating a Pump Pressure—Insert a "T" fitting into the fuel
vacuum in the valve housing which opens the inlet line at the carburetor. Connect a suitable pressure
valve. Fuel is then drawn into the valve housing gauge to the "T" fitting and take the pressure read-
chamber. ing with engine running. Pressure should be 4-5 ½
p.s.i. on PowerFlow 6 pumps and 5-6 ½ p.s.i. on
On the return stroke of the rocker arm, the dia- Hy-Fire V-8 pumps, and should remain constant
phragm spring forces the diaphragm down, the
or return very slowly to zero when the engine is
inlet valve closes, and fuel is forced through the
turned off. If pressure drops rapidly, outlet valve
outlet valve to the carburetor.
is faulty. High pressure indicates the diaphragm
spring tension is too high. Spring pressure should
TESTING FUEL PUMP
be 11 pounds when compressed to l ‰ inches.
Breather Vent—Inspect the pump at the breather Low pressure indicates low diaphragm spring
vent for evidence of gasoline or oil leakage. Gaso- tension.
MyMopar.com
ROCKER ARM HOUSING
ROCKER ARM ROCKER ARM TO STUD
VALVE HOUSING LEVER -*
SCREW (7) WASHER
SPRING -^
ÌL BODY-SERVICED
- IN ASSY.
PLUG
PIN
ROCKER ARM DIAPHRAGM ASSY.

PIVOT PIN BODY-SERVICED
IN ASSY.
DIAPHRAGM, PULL ROD

AND SPRING
SCREW A N D
VALVE RETAINER SCREW WASHER
VALVE RETAINER
VALVE
INLET VALVE HOUSING
OUTLET VALVE —
SCREW A N D
VALVE GASKET — WASHER
INLET PORT
VALVE H O U S I N G — É STRAINER
OUTLET AIR DOME
VALVE TO ROCKER ARM DIAPHRAGM
HOUSING SCREW (1) ` \ . a \ ^ V ^
AIR DOME ^
OUTLET PORT *¯¯~ 55P1154
55PÌ091
Figure 2 — Hy-F¡re V-8 Fuel Pump — Disassembled Figure 3 — PowerFlow 6 Fuel Pump — Disassembled
MyMopar.com
FUEL A N D EXHAUST SYSTEMS 143
FUEL INLET VALVE

FUEL INLET VALVE
VALVE HOUSING
DIAPHRAGM
INLET VALVE
PORT
ROCKER ARM
HOUSING
FUEL OUTLET VALVE
ATTACHING
SCREWS ROCKER ARAA
VALVE RETAINER FUEL OUTLET VALVE
Figure 4 — Valve and Rocker Arm Housing Figure 5 — Installing Valve Assembly—
Separated—Hy-F¡re V¯8 Hy-Fire V-8
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY—

7nief Vaive—Place a finger over the inlet fitting POWERFLOW 6 FUEL PUMP
with fuel line disconnected. Turn engine over with
starter motor. There should be constant action. Before disassembly of the pump, refer to Figure
If blow-back is present, the inlet valve is not 3. Remove the press fit pivot pin plug and slide out
sealing. pin. Disengage the rocker arm from the diaphragm
push rod. Separate valve body from main body
SERVICING FUEL PUMP after removing attaching screws. The valves are
press fit in the valve body and are not to be re-
All parts of the fuel pump except the diaphragm moved. To replace the outlet air dome diaphragm,
should be thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent. remove the two attaching screws in the valve
Gum deposits can be removed with denatured body. Inspect the diaphragm for cracks or deteri-
alcohol. oration.
Examine diaphragm for cracks, breaks or torn Install the diaphragm with the cut out portion
screw holes. Inspect push rod oil seal for wear over the inlet valve screen. Install air dome and
deterioration, breaks or tears and examine valve tighten screws securely. When attaching rocker
for proper sealing. Replace rocker arm and pivot
arm housing assembly to the valve body, hold
pin if excessively worn.
rocker arm down and then tighten screws.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY—
HY¯FIRE V¯8 FUEL PUMP
3. AUTOMATIC CHOKE-INTEGRAL
Remove pivot pin in order to disengage rocker The integral type automatic choke is used on all
arm from push rod as shown in Figure 2. Remove 1955 PowerFlow 6 and Hy-Fire V-8 engines. It is
body screws and separate the rocker arm housing also used on the 1956 PowerFlow 6 and 270 cubic
from the valve housing. See Figure 4. Valves are inch displacement Hy-Fire V-8 engines.
held in position by a spring retainer.
The following explanation and servicing details
When installing valves, always use a new are primarily intended for the single and dual
gasket. Tighten retainer securely. See Figure 5. barrel carburetors used on the PowerFlow 6 and
Install the diaphragm assembly into the rocker Hy-Fire V-8 engines, respectively. However, this
arm housing. Tie the follower spring down on the explanation can be adapted to the integral choke
arm and install the arm into the housing engaging on the 1955 four barrel carburetor used as special
the push rod. Install pivot pin and remove string equipment on the Hy-Fire V-8 engine. The unloader
with wire hook. and fast idle mechanism is contained in the choke
Assemble the rocker arm housing to the valve housing on Ball and Ball single and dual carbure-
housing but do not tighten screws. Hold diaphragm tors. On the WCFB four barrel carburetor, the
in fully compressed position and tighten screws. mechanism is attached directly to the throttle shaft.
This will prevent tearing the diaphragm. Parts are not interchangeable.
MyMopar.com
THERMOSTATIC CO!l
HOUSING
OPERATION
Manifold vacuum draws outside air through a

HOT AIR heat tube in the exhaust manifold where it is heat-
TU8E-
ed before being drawn into the thermostatic coil
housing. See Figure 6. The heated air acts on the
thermostatic coil and gradually opens the choke
as the engine warms up. The heat retainer plate
stores heat and prevents the coil from cooling too
rapidly and closing the choke valve while the
engine is still hot. This prevents overchoking if the
engine should be re-started while still warm.
SHIELD The opening of the choke valve is further con-

FRESH AIR INLET OPENING FRESH AIR INLET trolled by the choke piston which is connected by
an arm and link to the choke shaft. See Figure 7.
Figure 6 — Air-Flow Through Automatic Choke
When the engine is started, manifold vacuum pulls
the piston down, opening the choke valve enough
to provide the correct air-fuel mixture. In addition,
UNLOADER ARM A N D V
TRIP LEVER
GASKET FAST IDLE LINK
the choke valve is offset on the shaft so that, as air
FAST IDLE C A M
SPRING enters the carburetor air horn, it tends to position
BAFFLE PLATf
the choke valve, depending on speed and load
CHOKE OPERATING 1
LEVER j
conditions.
The fast idle cam is connected to the choke shaft

by a coil spring. The spring allows the choke valve
to move when the fast idle cam is kept from rotat-
ing by the pressure of the throttle linkage while
the engine is at idle.
HEAT RETA1NFR
PLATE
THERMOSTATIC COIL
The throttle and fast-idle cam are connected
HOUSING
through a connector rod and a fast-idle link and
CHOKE CONTROL
trip lever. When the choke is closed, the trip lever
ROD rides on the high part of the cam and holds the
throttle valve at a greater opening than that pro-
Figure 7 — Cutaway of Automatic Choke vided by the idle speed adjusting screw. The cam
lift is graduated so that as the choke valve opens,
the throttle valve idle opening decreases. When
the choke valve is completely open, the trip lever
CHOKE LEVER
is completely off the cam lift and the throttle open-
ing is controlled by the idle adjusting screw.
SERVICING AUTOMATIC CHOKE

To remove heat tube from choke housing, hold
hex nut at housing with an end wrench while
loosening the fitting. This will prevent damaging
the housing. Remove the retainer, housing, gasket
and baffle plate. Slide out the unloader arm and
CHOKE PISTON LINK- trip lever. See Figure 8. Remove the choke valve
screws and lift out valve. Rotate the choke shaft
FAST IDLE L I N K - - K ?
until piston is out of cylinder and remove the as-
UNLOADER ARM AND' sembly. See Figure 9.
TRIP LEVER 5 4 x 1 5
Use a solvent and thoroughly clean all choke

Figure 8 — Removing Unloader Arm and parts. Make sure that slots in the cylinder are
Trip Lever clean and that air passages are clean. Clean the
MyMopar.com
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS 145
heat tube and inspect for dents which would ob-

struct flow of air. Remove the heat tube shield at CHOKE SHAFT
manifold and clean shield and tube in manifold. CHOKE PISTON
Remove the heat retainer plate from the coil

ENDS OF SPRING
housing by striking the palm of the hand. Clean OVER SHORT LEVER
the air passages in the housing. When assembling
the heat retainer plate in the housing, index the
notch in the plate with the lug in the housing. See
Figure 10.
FAST IDLE CAM
AND SPRING
v-r
Hy-Fire V-8 — Position the asbestos covering on PISTON LINK
the heat tube against the choke housing fitting
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
after the connection is tightened to prevent exces-
sive loss of heat. Improper heating of the choke 54x17
mechanism would cause the engine to run rich
and reduce efficiency. Figure 9 — Choke Shaft, Piston, Fast Idle Cam
and Spring Assembly
4. AUTOMATIC CHOKE-CROSSOVER
The crossover type automatic choke used on LOCATING NOTCH AND MATING LUG
the 1956, 277 cubic inch displacement Hy-Fire V-8
engine is thermostatically operated and mounted
on the intake manifold. The choke housing con-
taining the thermostatic coil spring is located
in a well at the exhaust crossover passage. See
Figure 11.
OPERATION
Operation of the choke valve is controlled by

the thermostatic coil spring, the choke piston, and THERMOSTATIC COIL
by the offset position of the choke valve on the AND HEAT
RETAINER PLATE
shaft.
54x482
As the thermostatic coil gains heat, it gradually
winds and allows the choke to open. At the same Figure 10 — Installing Heat Retainer Plate
time, the vacuum operated choke piston, connected In Choke Housing
by a rod to the valve, keeps a constant pull on the
valve against the tension of the spring. See Figure
12. This is true as long as the engine is running.
Thus, the valve opens gradually. In addition, the
offset position of the valve also tends to open the CHOKE
valve, depending upon engine speed and load ROD
conditions.
COVER
SERVICING
Other than an occasional cleaning, if necessary,

the automatic choke requires no servicing. It is
important that the choke operating rod works
ADJUSTMENTS
freely at the choke shaft and also at the coil hous-
ing. Move the choke rod up and down to check for CHOKE WELL
free movement of the coil housing on the shaft. / EXHAUST CROSSOVER
/ \ PASSAGE
Make certain that the coil housing does not contact CHOKE COIL AND HOUSING 56PÌ24
the sides of the well. Any contact will cause the
choke to open late and may cause the choke to Figure 11 — Cutaway Showing Crossover
stay open after the engine has cooled—thus caus- Type Choke
MyMopar.com
CHOKE VALVE
CHOKE PISTON
ing hard starting. Do not lubricate any parts of
the choke since this would cause dirt accumulation
and result in binding of the choke mechanism.
Check operation of choke piston by working choke
valve back and forth.
The choke control unit can be disassembled for
VACUUM
PASSAGE
service by removing the hairpin clip and nut. See
Figure 13. Care should be used when assembling
parts so that the coil spring is properly positioned
on the shaft. Generally the choke will function
properly if the index mark is set at a point half way
between the L and R mark. If need be, set the mark
toward rich or lean as required. See Figure 11 or 13.
56PÎ85
Figure 12 — Cutaway Showing Choke

5. CARBURETOR-POWERFLOW 6
Piston Operation AND HY-FIRE V-8
The PowerFlow 6 and the Hy-Fire V-8 engines
DUST SHIELD *-^· use a Ball and Ball single throat and a Ball and
OPERATING ROD
Ball dual throat carburetor, respectively.
HAIRPIN CLIP
Each throat of the dual carburetor supplies an
air fuel mixture to four specific cylinders. Thus it
is essentially two carburetors in one. Each throat
COVER ^ ^ ^ WASHER
contains its own idle air bleed, high speed air
bleed, idle orifice tube, main vent tube, main meter-
HAIRPIN CLIP THERMOSTATIC COIL ^ , `
) ing jet, metering port, idle port, idle mixture adjust-
\ COIL HOUSING ment and throttle valve. Metering of fuel in the
COIL HOUSING 1·'
accelerator pump system of the Hy-Fire V-8 is
0 ^ ¡ ADJUSTMENT PLATE
accomplished by two accurately drilled orifices,
WASHER .Jr ™
I f 3^ f,/ñ NU
; one for each throat, in the discharge cluster. In
the case of the PowerFlow 6 carburetor, a replace-
SHAFT ``
56P184 WASHER able accelerator pump jet is used.
Figure 13 — Crossover Type Chok< The operation of the float, low speed, high speed
Disassembled and accelerator pump systems as explained in the
following paragraphs applies to the PowerFlow
BOWL VENT TUBE 6 carburetor. The Hy-Fire V-8 dual throat carbu-
retor operating fundamentals are essentially the
same.
FLOAT HINGE
PIN RETAINER FLOAT SYSTEM
INLET The float system maintains a fuel supply at a

VALVE constant level for all operating conditions. The fuel
ASSEMBLY
level is kept at a minimum to prevent as little fuel
vaporization as possible and to aid in warm engine
starting. It is important that floats are properly
adjusted, and needle valve assembly is in good
condition. Equally important is a good seal be-
tween the air horn and main body. A poor gasket
at this point causes leakage resulting in ineffi-
cient carburetor operation. The bowl is vented to
BEND LIP TO ADJUST FLOAT the inside of the carburetor air horn so that the
55P1186 proper air pressure is maintained in the bowl
Figure 14 — Typical Float System chamber at all times. See Figure 14.
MyMopar.com
STEP-UP ROD
IDLE
RESTRICTION
MAIN
METERING
IDLE AIR JET
BLEED STEP-UP
PISTON H I G H SPEED
IDLE AND AIR BLEED
ORIFICE SPRING
MAIN -TUBE
METERING D I F F U S E R BAR
JET DISCHARGE
PORT
M A I N VENT
VACUUM TUBE
IDLE PORT PASSAGE
IDLE A D J U S T M E N T
SCREW PORT
S L O T T E D T Y P E FLANGE GASKET
55P1187 55P1188
Figure 15—Typical Low Speed System Figure 16 — Typical High Speed System
LOW SPEED SYSTEM Under normal driving conditions, manifold vacu-

um exerts a strong pull on the vacuum piston. This
During engine idle or part throttle operation, fuel holds the piston down keeping the step up rod in
is supplied to the engine through the low speed the fuel passage of the main metering jet. Fuel then
system. Fuel enters the main metering jet and is flows around the rod, through the jet, and through
metered through the idle orifice tube where it the diffuser bar discharge port.
mixes with air drawn through the idle air bleed.
The idle restriction breaks up the fuel as it mixes When manifold vacuum falls off, due to a heavy
with air drawn through the idle air bleed. This load, sudden acceleration, or very high engine
provides an air-fuel mixture at the idle port and speed, the spring moves the piston up, moving the
idle bleed adjustment screw port. It is important step up rod out of the main metering jet fuel pas-
that the idle air bleed, idle orifice tube, idle re- sage. Additional fuel is then supplied to the
striction, idle passage, idle port, and idle adjust- engine.
ment screw port are kept clean. Any clogging will Air is drawn through the high speed air bleed
result in poor low speed operation. Air leakage and mixes with the fuel surrounding the main vent
through the gaskets will also cause poor engine tube. The mixture is then drawn from the diffuser
idling or low speed operation. See Figure 15. discharge ports. It is important that the vent tube
is clean. A clogged tube may cause excessively
HIGH SPEED SYSTEM rich mixtures. Leakage of air at the gaskets will
decrease or destroy the vacuum and the step up
During part or full throttle operation, fuel is piston will remain up resulting in excess fuel
supplied to the engine through the high speed consumption.
system.
ACCELERATOR PUMP SYSTEM
When the engine is under a heavy load, sud-
denly accelerated, or operated at very high engine The accelerator pump system momentarily sup-
speeds, the step up system supplies additional fuel plies an extra charge of fuel to the engine when the
through the diffuser bar discharge port. See Figure throttle is opened. The amount of fuel added is
16. Fuel flow through the fuel passage of the main directly proportional to the amount the pedal is
metering jet is controlled by the movement of the depressed. When the accelerator pedal is de-
step up rod which in turn is moved by a spring and pressed, the pump plunger spring forces the
a vacuum controlled piston. A vacuum passage to plunger down and the fuel is discharged past the
the intake manifold is provided for by a drilled discharge check ball through the jet and into the
passage in the carburetor body and throttle body, air stream. The inlet passage is closed by the inlet
and a slotted flange gasket. check ball as this occurs.
MyMopar.com
SCREW (3í
SCREW ¦'J SHOR1
OVERDRIVE
HOUSING AND SPRING
4 LUNC KICKDOWN SWITCH
GASKET OVERDRIVE ONLY
CHOKE VAlVfc,
/ BAFFLE PLATE
/ CHOKE SHAFT AND LEVER
FAST IDLE CAM
AND SPRING
HOUSING RING
UNLOADER ARM AND TRIP LEVER
PISTON P I N - " " " " J *
CHOKE PISTON
ROCKER A R M -
SCREW- ^
STEP-UP
PiSTON
NUT — RETAINER
SCREW
BRACKET-"^' STEP-UP PISTON
— ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER
STEP-UP
DASHPOT- MAIN
METERING-^^ STEP-UP PISTON SPRING
JET ^`"*¯
,r IDLE ORIFICE TUBE
STEP-UP PISTONS-
• — F L O A T FULCRUM PIN RETAINER
THROTTLE SHAFT
GASKET — FLOAT
LOOSE LEVER
```¯`·` FLOAT FULCRUM PIN

DISCHARGE PASSAGE CHECK BALL
PLUG
DASHPOT ASSEMBLY
ÒWERFLÍTE TRANSMISSION SPRING
ACCELERATOR PUMP JET
ONLY FAST IDLE
ADJUSTING SCREW MAIN BODY
FUEL INLET
NEEDLE VALVE,
SEAT AND
CHOKE CONNECTOR R O D X
GASKET
THROTTLE LEVER AND SHAFT
ACCELERATOR PUMP R O D ' "
HA!RPIN CLIP
-SPRING
> •` V * ' «-f *[)j"`.\lt*". `.CRt A
55Pìì5O
Figure 17 — PowerFlow 6 Carburetor — Disassembled
MyMopar.com
PUMP S P R I N G PUMP ROCKER ARM

ACCELERATOR PUMP
OPERATING ROD
PLUNGER
ROD CLIP
VENT
CHOKE ^
PASSAGE CONNECTOR
ROD
CENTER HOLE HAIRPIN CLIP
(THROTTLE LEVER)
I N T A K E CHECK
REPAIR B L O C K — 54x5
DISCHARGE
Figure 19 — Removing Accelerator Pump Rod—
55P1189 CHECK PowerFlow 6
Typical of Hy-Fire V-8 Carburetor
Figure 18 — Typical Accelerator Pump System
AIR HORN
\
When the accelerator pedal returns, the pump ACCELERATOR PUMP

plunger is pulled up drawing a new charge of fuel ROCKER ARM
past the inlet check ball. The discharge check ball
is closed, preventing air bleeding into the passage
\ ×
when the pump plunger is pulled up.
When the engine is operated at high speeds, a
vacuum exists at the accelerator pump jet. To
prevent fuel being drawn out of the pump system,
the pump jet air bleed is vented through a passage
in the air horn to the float bowl.
ACCELERATOR PUMP
A vent is also provided in the plunger to relieve PLUNGER
vapor pressure developed by heat in the pump
54x8
system. See Figure 18.
Figure 20 — Removing Accelerator Pump
Plunger—PowerFlow 6
DISASSEMBLY OF AIR HORN Typical of Hy-F¡re V-8 Carburetor
Remove choke connector rod and accelerator

pump operating rod as shown in Figure 19. Re-
move the air horn attaching screws and carefully
lift straight up to remove air horn assembly. Dis- and sliding it off the hook. See Figure 20. If the
card gasket. pump plunger leather is hard, worn excessively
or cracked, a new plunger should be installed. The
leather on the piston must be soft and pliable and
the small expansion spring underneath it must be
NOTE clean. The leather will shrink if the fuel contains
a small amount of water. Soak the piston leather
Long screws attach throttle body to main
in clean gasoline or kerosene for about 10 minutes
body on PowerFlow 6 carburetors. Use care to
to make it soft and pliable. Then reflare the leather.
prevent accidental damage to throttle body.
To do this, carefully roll the leather back (turn it
inside out) and return it to its normal position and
reshape by rolling between the thumb and fore-
Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from finger. This should also be done before installing
the rocker arm by pushing up on bottom of plunger a new piston.
MyMopar.com
. ` f"RFW
^ SCREW
-AIR HORN
^ SCREW
POWERFÜTE
SCREW
BRACKET
DASH POT
LEVER
GASKET
`~~—~ SCREW
SCREW
COVER
WASHER -™
5PKíNG CLUSTER
PLUNGER
`` GASKET
SCREW __™,„ . ~ ~
RETAINER —
DAM
DALI
PISTON
RETAINER -– . -
PÍN _ — • " • '
BODY ( N O T SERVICED)
-GASKET
NEEDLE
VALVE
GASKET - -^
ROD — — •• ARM
SCREW — -
SCREW
l>
WASHER —
«ú- t*K
OVERDRIVE SCREW CLIP

/
SPRING
BRACKET \ ^¯—ROD
f
FLANGE
SCREW `¯¯¯¯
— SHAf
SWITCH
LEVER
55P1Ì8
Figure 21 — Hy¯F¡re V¯8 Carburetor— Disassembled
(241, 260, and 270 co. in. engines)
MyMopar.com
DISASSEMBLY OF CARBURETOR MAIN BODY

Needle Valve—Inspect the fuel inlet needle FLOAT
valve, seat and gasket for evidence of grooving,
irregular seating, or excessive wear and worn
valve assemblies. Remove the float pin retainer, FULCRUM PIN
pin and float. Test the floats for leakage and in- STEP-UP PISTON
spect the pivot holes for excessive wear. See RETAINING
Figure 22. SCREW
Main Body — PowerFlow 6 — Remove step up NEEDLE VALVE
piston, spring, step up rod, main metering jet and STEP-UP PISTON
gasket, and idle orifice tube. See Figure 23. Re-
move accelerator pump discharge check ball. To
DISCHARGE PASSAGE
remove the pump jet, first remove jet plug. CHECK BALL
The main vent tube seldom needs servicing other FLOAT RETAINER- 54x9
than cleaning. A special tool is required to replace
Figure 22 — Removing Float Assembly—
it. The tube can be cleaned satisfactorily without
PowerFlow 6
removing it from the main body. To do this, take Typical of Hy-Fire V-8 Carburetor
out the plug at the end of the tube passage and use
a solvent in the passage. Apply air pressure at the STEP-UP
PISTON
high speed air bleed hole. It is important that the
tube is free of dirt since a clogged tube may cause STEP-UP-
ROD ../
excessively rich mixtures. Refer to Figure 16 for
tube location.
Main Body — Hy-Fire V-8 — Two screws at the
bottom of the throttle body must be removed to
separate the main body from the throttle body.
Remove the step-up piston, spring, both step-up
piston rods and main metering jets. See Figure 24.
STEP-UP
Remove the idle bleed screws and lift off the dis- PISTON
charge cluster and venturi assembly. See Figure SPRING
26. Discard both gaskets. Remove the discharge JET PLUG
check ball. Metering of fuel from the accelerator NEEDLE VALVE
pump system is accomplished by two carefully STEP-UP'PISTON RETAINING SCREW 54x10
drilled holes in the discharge cluster, which must
be kept clean. Do not remove idle orifice tubes or Figure 23 — Removing or Installing Step-up
main vent tubes from the cluster. They can easily Piston—PowerFlow 6
be cleaned with a solvent and dried with com-
pressed air. Replace any parts that show signs of STEP UP PISTON
wear or damage. The discharge cluster is serviced
only as an assembly. STEP UP ROD
DISASSEMBLY OF THROTTLE BODY

Remove the idle adjustment screw and spring
(two in V-8 carburetor) from the throttle body.
Clean and inspect for wear. If there are grooves
or evidence of irregular seating, replace the ad-
justing screws. See Figure 27 or 28.
STEP UP PISTON
SPRING
Inspect the throttle shaft and lever for looseness.
STEP UP ROD
Proper idle speed cannot be maintained if lever is STEP UP PISTON
M A I N METERING RETAINING SCREW
loose on shaft. Repair if necessary by brazing or JETS
soldering. Do not attempt to peen shaft. This may
bend the shaft and cause improper throttle valve Figure 24 — Removing or Installing Step-up
operation. p¡ston—Hy¯Fire V-8
MyMopar.com
VALVE
ARM
GASKET
SPRING
WASHER
OUTLET
BALL
GASKET
SCREW
INLET BALL
STEP UP WIRE (2)

PISTON
JET
RETAINER
SPRING
RETAINER
PIN
FLOAT
BODY (NOT SERVICED)

NEEDLE
ROD
LEVER
GASKET
SCREW
SPRING
SCREW
SPRING
FLANGE
SHAFT
SCREW
ARM 56P186
Figure 25 — Hy-Fire V¯8 Carburetor — Disassembled

(277 cubic inch engine)
MyMopar.com
Inspect for looseness of the throttle shaft in the

body. In some cases, if wear is not too excessive it
is possible to install a new shaft and lever as-
sembly. Where there is excessive wear and loose-
ness, replace the entire throttle body assembly.
When a new shaft is installed, mark the position
of the throttle valve in the bore. It is important that
the valve be in the same position when the new
shaft is installed for proper engine idle and part
throttle operation.
ACCELERATOR PUMP
CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS DISCHARGE JETS
Silt, carbon and gum deposits can collect in the

carburetor, decreasing the size of the jet openings
and fuel passages and interfering with the opera- Figure 26 — Removing or Installing Venturi
tion of the check valves. Fine silt is especially Cover—Hy-F¡re V-8
troublesome if gum is present. Even though silt is
not apparent, a deposit of varnish or shellac THROTTLE VALVE SPARK ADVANCE
colored gum on any carburetor part, such as the IDLE TRANSFER
CONTROL PORT
float, indicates that the corburetor needs cleaning PORT

and reconditioning.
CAUTION
Never clean jets or orifices with a wire or
drill. Jets may become enlarged and damaged
beyond use. Always clean out jets and pas-
sages with solvent and compressed air. THROTTLE
LEVER
When cleaning the carburetor, soak all parts in
a good commercial cleaning solvent until deposit
has softened. Then scrub parts with a stiff bristled
brush (not a wire brush) and dry with compressed
54x18
air. Do not use a lye bath or gasoline. Gasoline will
not dissolve carbon and gum. Lye will remove the
Figure 2 7 — Throttle Body Assembly—
protective coating on various parts of the car- PowerFlow 6
buretor, permitting rapid corrosion to occur.
THROTTLE SHAFT
CAUTION THROTTLE VALVES
Acetone, lacquer thinner and denatured IDLE SPEED

alcohol, used for cleaning carburetor parts, are ADJUSTING SCREW
highly inflammable. Handle with care. Do not

use near painted surfaces, as such cleaners
might be splashed on painted surfaces, causing
damage.
After soaking parts in the cleaning solvent, rinse

in clean gasoline and clean out all passages with
compressed air. If hot water is used, remove all
traces of water with kerosene, mineral solvents or
THROTTLE LEVER
IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING
gasoline. SCREWS AND SPRINGS
55PÌ2Î5
Water in the carburetor can cause die cast parts
to corrode and form an oatmeal-like mush which Figure 28 — Throttle Body Assembly—
will clog the jets. While this corrosion can some- Hy-F¡re V¯8
MyMopar.com
BRASS ROD (PRESS D O W N TO SEAT BALL}

BRASS ROD (PRESS D O W N TO SEAT BALL)
N O FUEL TO BE y/j ACCELERATOR PUMP
EMITTED-PUMP ^ f t PLUNGER SHAFT ACCELERATOR PUMP
DISCHARGE PLUNGER SHAFT
PASSAGE
NO FUEL TO BE
EMITTED—
PUMP INLET
FUEL TO
APPROX, ¼ iNCH OF BE EMITTED-
FUEL IN BOWL PUMP INTAKE PASSAGE
NO FUEL TO BE EMITTED—
PUMP DISCHARGE PASSAGE
54x25
Figure 29 — Testing Accelerator Pump System— Figure 30 — Testing Accelerator Pump Syste
PowerFlow 6 Hy-F¡re V¯8
times be removed, it is advisable to replace the gasket. Tighten securely. Install the step-up piston
entire carburetor because the "mush" is hard to spring and step-up rod. See Figure 23. Carefully
see and remove and often sticks to the inside of guide the step-up rod into the main metering jet.
carburetor passages rendering the carburetor in- Place the float assembly and inlet needle valve
efficient. assembly in position.
Integral Choke—Heavy black carbon deposits
Main Body—Hy-Fire V-8—Place discharge check
indicate the possibility of heat tube leakage in the
ball on its seat and position the venturi and dis-
exhaust manifold. The coil housing, heat retainer
charge cluster in the main body. Use new gaskets.
plate, and coil are serviced only as an assembly.
Install the two idle bleed screws and tighten se-
To clean the passage in the coil housing, remove
curely. See Figure 26. Install both main metering
the heat retainer plate and coil assembly by strik-
jets using new gaskets and tighten securely. Install
ing down on the palm of the hand. Clean with a
the spring, step-up piston and both step-up rods.
suitable brush and compressed air.
Use care when guiding the rods in the main meter-
ing jets to prevent damage to the rods and jets.
ASSEMBLY OF CARBURETOR
Install float assembly and inlet needle valve
Testing Accelerator Pump System—Install the assembly.
plunger in the cylinder and the discharge check
ball on its seat. Pour a small quantity of gasoline Checking Float Level—The same procedure is
in the bowl. Move the plunger up and down slowly used when checking float level on PowerFlow 6
several times to expel all air from the pump pas- and Hy-Fire V-8 carburetors. Install float assembly
sage. Hold the ball down firmly with a brass rod and needle valve assembly. Check float level
and raise the plunger. Refer to Figure 29 when height as shown in Figure 31. Seat needle with
testing PowerFlow 6 carburetor and Figure 30 finger pressed against float lip. There should be
when testing Hy-Fire V-8 carburetor. Press the 7/32 inch from top of the crown of each float to the
plunger down. No fuel should flow from the pump top of the main body. Each float must be adjusted
inlet or discharge passage. If gasoline is evident to this setting. It is important that the floats do not
from either point, clean the passages again and touch the sides of the bowl.
repeat tests. If leakage is still evident, replace the
check ball. Air Horn and Throttle Body — PowerFlow 6 —
Place a new gasket on throttle body and position
Main Body—PowerFlow 6—Install accelerator main body making sure they are aligned. Assem-
pump jet and plug. Install idle orifice tube and ble pump plunger, spring, and cup washer and
tighten securely. Install main metering jet and insert through air horn, engaging pump arm. Place
MyMopar.com
a new gasket on main body and position air horn. GAUGE T-109-239
Install the attaching screws and tighten securely.
Attach the choke connector rod and accelerator
pump operating rod.
Air Horn and Throttle Body—Hy-Fire V-8—Posi-
tion main body on throttle body using a new gas-
ket. Install the two screws at bottom of the throttle
body and tighten securely. Place a new gasket on
main body. Assemble pump plunger pump arm in
air horn and place assembly on main body. Make
sure pump plunger leather enters cylinder evenly
and does not flop over as it enters cylinder. Install
air horn to body screws and tighten them evenly.
ADJUSTMENTS Figure 31 —Checking Float Level Height—
PowerFlow 6
Accelerator Pump—Back out the throttle adjust- Typical of Hy-F¡re V-8 Carburetor
ing screw and open the choke valve so that the
throttle valve can be completely seated in the car-
buretor bore. The adjustment is made with the HOID CHOKE F‰_ SCALE
pump connector rod in the center hole of the VALVE OPEN
throttle lever. With the throttle valve closed, meas-

ure the distance between the top of the float bowl
cover to the end of the plunger shaft, marked "A"
in Figure 32. Refer to Data and Specifications for
dimension of particular carburetor used. If neces-
sary, carefully bend the connector rod at the lower
angle to obtain adjustment. Use Tool T109-213.
Fast Idle and Unloader—Carburetors with Inte-
gral Choke—Remove the thermostatic coil housing THROTTLE VALVE
assembly, gasket, and baffle plate. Back out throt- CLOSED
tle adjusting screw. Open throttle valve partially IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING
SCREW BACKED OUT
and hold choke valve in fully closed position. Then
close throttle valve. This procedure will allow fast- Figure 32 — Accelerator Pump Adjustment—
idle cam to revolve to fast-idle position. Measure PowerFlow 6
Typical of Hy-F¡re V-8 Carburetor
the clearance between the throttle valve and bore
of carburetor on the side opposite the idle port. THROTTLE VALVE
Refer to Figure 33. For clearance measurement see CLOSED
Data and Specifications for particular carburetor

that is checked. This clearance can be adjusted by INSERT GAUGE ON
SIDE OPPOSITE PORTS
bending the choke connector rod at the lower angle
using Tool T109-213.
BEND CHOKE
CONNECTOR ROD
The unloader adjustment must be made after the FOR CORRECT
ADJUSTMENT
fast-idle adjustment is performed. Hold the throttle
valve wide open and close the choke valve as far
as possible without forcing. Clearance is measured
between the upper edge of the choke valve and the
inner wall of the carburetor air horn. See Figure 34. CHOKE VALVfc
HELD CLOSED
For clearance dimension refer to Data and Specifi-
cations for particular carburetor used. To obtain
the correct adjustment bend the arm on choke trip
Figure 33 — Fast-Idle Adjustment—PowerFlow 6
lever with Tool T109-214. Typical of Hy-F¡re V-8 Carburetor except 277 cu. in. engine
MyMopar.com
GAUGE
Fast Idle and Unloader — Carburetors Using
Crossover Type Choke—The 1956 Hy-Fire V-8, 277
cu. in. displacement engines use the crossover
CHOKE VALVE
HEID CLOSED type choke. Back off idle speed adjusting screw.
Hold choke valve closed and adjust the choke
level to give .020 inch closure between body stop
lug and the fast idle cam. See Figure 35. With the
fast idle screw on the highest part of the fast idle
cam, turn the screw in until there is .014 inch clear-
ance between the edge of the throttle valve and
the carburetor bore on the side opposite the ports.
See Figure 36.
To make the unloader adjustment, bend the arm
on the throttle lever to give the choke valve a 3/16
inch opening with the throttle valves wide open.
Figure 34 — Unloader Adjustment—PowerFlow 6
Typical of Hy-Fire V-8 Carburetor except 277 cu. in. engine
See Figure 37.
Overdrive Kickdown Switch—Open the throttle
valve to wide open position and adjust the hex
nuts on the switch to have 1/64 to 3/64 inch clear-
CHOKE VALVE
CLOSED
ance between the kickdown lever and switch stem
guide. See Figure 38. The kickdown switch is
serviced only as an assembly.
PowerFlite Dash Pot—The Dash Pot is a device
BEND LEVER
HERE
which retards the closing of the throttle when the
accelerator pedal is suddenly released, thus pre-
.020 IN.
venting engine stalling. Maximum dash pot action
WIRE GAUGE is obtained by loosening the lock nut and adjusting
the unit so that the dash pot plunger shaft can be
moved inwardly, approximately 3/32 inch, when
the throttle valve is tightly closed. After adjust-
ment is made, retighten lock nut. See Figure 39.
The dash pot unit is serviced only as an assembly.
Idle Speed and Mixture—Adjust the engine idle
56P183
speed at about 450 to 500 revolutions per minute
with the engine at normal operating temperature.
Figure 35 — Fast Idle Adjustment—Hy-F¡re V¯8
Turn the idle mixture adjusting screw (two on Hy-
(277 cu. in. engine)
Fire V-8) until engine operates smoothly. Adjust-
ment will be somewhere between ½ and 1 ½ turns
open.
.014 IN.
WIRE GAUGE 3/16 IN. GAUGE
/THROTTLE VALVES \
IN WIDE OPEN
\ POSITION /
FAST IDLE BEND ARM ON

ADJUSTING SCREW THROTTLE LEVER
TO OBTAIN 3 1 6 "
56P200 CHOKE VALVE
OPENING
Figure 36 — Fast Idle Adjustment—Hy¯F¡re V-8 Figure 37 — Unloader Adjustment—Hy-F¡re V-8

(277 cu. in. engine) C277 cu. in. engine)
MyMopar.com
NEEDLE
VALVE
SEAT IDLE AIR
BLEED
NEEDLE VALVE
IDLE TUBE
FLOAT
FUEL
INLET THROTTLE
VALVE
(Closed)
2 . - 1 . INCH CLEARANCE IDLE NEEDLE VALVE
64 6 4
AT WIDE OPEN
IDLE DISCHARGE HOLES
THROTTLE
• L J — W ¯T> 45x2048 56P195
Figure 38 — Overdrive Kickdown Switch—

Figure 40 — Float System and First Stage of Idle
PowerFlow 6
CHOKE VALVE
WIDE OPEN IDLE AIR
BLEED
LOCK
NUT-
STUD
! l THROTTLE THROTTLE
VALVE IN VALVE
(Partially Open)
•¾f. \y CLOSED
POSITION
IDLE NEEDLE VALVE
(IDLE) IDLE DISCHARGE HOLES
PLUNGER SHOULD 56P196
BE ADJUSTED TO
GIVE 3 / 3 2 ¦NCH
INWARD TRAVEL 45x2049
Figure 41 — Idle System and Second Stage of Idle
Figure 39 — PowerFI¡te Dash Pot Adjustment—
PowerFlow 6
IDLE SYSTEM
With the throttle valves closed, and the engine

6. CARBURETOR-POWERFLOW 6 - running at slow idle speed, fuel from the float
TWO BARREL chamber is metered into the idle tubes through an
orifice at the base of each idle tube. The air taken
The two barrel carburetor used on PowerFlow 6 in through the idle air bleed holes mixes with the
engines as special equipment contains a separate
fuel as it leaves the top of the idle tubes. This
idle system, and main metering system for each
mixture of air and fuel flows down the channel
throat of the carburetor. The carburetor also
where it is mixed with additional air entering
contains an integral automatic choke.
through the secondary idle air bleeds before being
discharged at the lower idle discharge holes. The
FLOAT SYSTEM
quantity of fuel discharged at holes is controlled
Fuel enters the carburetor at the fuel inlet by the adjustable idle mixture screws. See Figure
through the needle and seat and is maintained at 40. As the throttle valves are opened slightly, the
a constant level by the floats. The vent tube con- mixture of fuel and air is also discharged from the
nects the air horn with the float chamber, thus# a upper idle discharge holes supplying additional
balanced air pressure is maintained. See Figure 40. fuel for increased engine speed. See Figure 41.
MyMopar.com
FUEL SYSTEM
MODEL P-28
Make Stromberg
Type Dual Throat Downdraft
Model (with Standard Transmission) WW-124

(Standard with Overdrive Transmission) WW-125
(with PowerFlite Transmission) WW-126
Carburetor
Bore 1-5/16"
Venturi 1-1/16"
Main Metering Jet .045"
Power Jet #62M.B.*

* Restriction for Power System in Main Body
Thermostat Cover Number #32
Idle Mixture (both screws) ¾ to l¼ turns open
Idle S p e e d 450 to 500 rpm
Fast Idle S p e e d Setting (drill size) #48 @ 5¼ turns
Choke Positioning Spring Color Black

Adjustments
Choke Positioning Spring Setting (drill size) #31
Unloader Adjustment #19 Drill
Accelerator Pump Travel 3/16 to 7/32"
Float Setting 3/16"
Choke Control Integral Automatic
MyMopar.com
MAIN METERING SYSTEM AUXILIARY VENTURI TUBE
MAIN DISCHARGE JET1

The main metering system controls the flow of
fuel during the intermediate or part throttle range HIGH SPEED BLEEDER
of operation. With the throttle valves in the par-
tially open position, fuel flows from the float
chamber through the main metering jets and into
the main discharge jets. Here the air bled through
the high speed air bleeders into the main discharge
tubes is mixed with the fuel. This mixture of air
and fuel is then discharged into the air stream
through the auxiliary venturi tubes. The main
body and main discharge jets are designed to
prevent percolation. Should vapor bubbles form MAIN METERING JET
in the fuel entering the main discharge system, due 56P197 THROTTLE VALVE
to high temperatures, the vapor bubbles will col-
lect in the outside channels surrounding the main Figure 42 — View Showing Carburetor Main
discharge jets, rise into the dome shaped high Metering System
speed air bleeders where they are vaporized. See
Figure 42.
VACUUM CHANNEL
POWER SYSTEM
VACUUM PISTON
The power system is incorporated in the car-

buretor to provide the richer mixture required for SPRING
maximum power or high speed operation. The

extra fuel is supplied by the vacuum power system
which is connected directly to the main metering
system. A vacuum controlled piston automatically
operates the power by-pass jet in accordance with
the throttle opening. Intake manifold vacuum is
maintained above the vacuum piston through a
channel which connects the vacuum piston with POWER BY-PASS JET
(Open)
the mounting flange of the carburetor. During
partial throttle operations, the vacuum above the 56P198 THROTTLE VALVE
piston is sufficient to overrule the compression

spring and holds the power piston in its "up" Figure 43 — View Showing Carburetor
position. When the throttle valve is opened to a Power System
point where manifold vacuum drops to approxi-
mately 5 inches Hg., the compression spring then
FLOAT
moves the vacuum piston "down" to the power PUMP LEVER CHAMBER
by-pass jet and meters additional fuel into the VENT
main metering system. See Figure 43.

PUMP SPRING
As the throttle valves are opened, the acceler-

ating pump piston moves down to close the inlet PUMP PISTON
ball check valve and force a metered quantity of THROTTLE

extra fuel through the outlet ball check valve and INLET BALL
VALVE
pump discharge nozzle into the air stream. See CHECK (Open)
Figure 44.
When the throttle is closed, the piston is raised

against the compression of the duration spring.
When the throttle is opened, the pump lever moves Figure 44 — View Showing Accelerator
down and permits the compression spring above Pump System
MyMopar.com
I OFFSET CHOKE VALVE the piston to move the piston down. With the re-
^ j (CLOSED)
lease of the accelerator pedal and the return of
CHOKE the accelerating pump to the release position, the
outlet ball check valve "closes" while the inlet
CHOKE POSITIONING ball check valve "reopens," thus permitting fuel
SPRING from the float chamber to enter and refill the
accelerating pump cylinder.
INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE
As soon as the engine begins to operate, release

of the throttle causes the choke positioning spring
to contact thermostat lever, to force the choke
CAM CONTACT LEVER valve open to a pre-determined position. Sufficient
air is admitted to give a satisfactory running mix-
ture. The cam contact lever attached to the end of
Figure 45 — Fast Idle—Cold Engine Operation the throttle shaft then comes to rest on the first
step of the fast idle cam to provide the correct
throttle opening during the warm up period. See
2--OFFSET CHOKE VALVE Figure 45.
—^,(OPEN)
CHOKE As the engine continues to warm up, the air

LEVER flow through the carburetor forces the offset choke
valve open against the tension of the thermostat
spring. Continued heat from the exhaust manifold
gradually decreases the tension of the thermostat
coil spring until the spring offers no further
resistance to the opening of the choke valve. See
Figure 46.
With the engine partially warm, the fast idle
cam lever ear will rest on a lower step of the fast
idle cam when the accelerator is released and
54x4 CAM CONTACT LEVER causes the engine to idle at a slower speed. When
the engine reaches its normal operating tempera-
ture and the accelerator is released, the fast idle
Figure 46 — Slow Idle—Warm Engine Operation
cam rotates to its fully released position with space
between the fast idle cam and the ear on the cam
VACUUM POWER PUMP PLUNGER

:!Bÿ^ PISTON ROD END WRENCH
SPRING AND
W O O D BLOCK
POWER PISTON
STAKED IN
AIR HORN
PLUNGER ROD
PUMP SEAL WASHER

ACCELERATOR PUMP ROCKER ARM 54x415 54x416
Figure 47 — Removing or Installing Accelerator Figure 48 — Removing Vacuum Piston from

Pump Assembly Carburetor Air Horn
MyMopar.com
contact lever. In this position the throttle opening

DISCHARGE CLUSTER
is controlled entirely by the throttle stop screw.
DISASSEMBLY OF AIR HORN
Remove the fast idle rod and the pump operating

rod. Remove all air horn attaching screws and
carefully lift off vertically the air horn assembly.
Disengage the pump plunger rod by tilting slightly
and remove the pump plunger. See Figure 47.
To remove the vacuum power piston, use an CLUSTER GASKET

open end wrench and wood block as shown in
Figure 48. Use care as pressure is applied since 54x420
the assembly is staked in position. The choke plate
Figure 50—Removing or Installing Accelerator
and shaft can be removed if necessary. Care
Pump Discharge Cluster
should be exercised when removing screws to
prevent breaking them off in the shaft.
MAIN BODY DISASSEMBLY
Remove idle tubes as shown in Figure 49. Invert

carburetor and remove accelerator pump inlet
check ball. Do not remove the two dome shaped
high speed bleeders in the main discharge strut
of the main body. Remove the accelerator pump
discharge cluster and invert the body to drop out
the accelerator pump discharge check ball. See
Figure 50.
Remove the float inlet needle and seat. Inspect

for grooving. Use a small screwdriver to pry out 56P2O5
the float fulcrum retaining spring. Cover the float
chamber, to prevent spring flying out. Then lift Figure 51—Removing or Installing Power
out float. By-Pass Jet
IDLE PASSAGES IDLE TUBE TOOL
OPENING FOR
DISTRIBUTOR
VACUUM TUBE
CONNECTION
MAIN DISCHARGE
JET (OR TUBE)
REPAIR BLOCK 54x426
Figure 49 — Removing or Installing Idle Tubes Figure 52 — Removing Main Discharge

from Main Body Jets or Tubes
MyMopar.com
CHOKE SHAFT AND LEVER CHOKE

\»i VALVE
SCREW
SCREW (AIR HORN)

FAST IDLE ROD
COTTER MODEL IDENTIFICATION TAG
PUMP SEAL WASHER
VACUUM POWER PISTON

K I C K D O W N SWITCH BRACKET
OVERDRIVE K I C K D O W N SWITCH
PUMP SPRING
GASKET
POWER BY-PASS JET CLUSTER SCREW
GASKET
ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER
DISCHARGE CLUSTER
INLET CHECK BALL
GASKET
FULCRUM PIN RETAINER DISCHARGE CHECK BALL
IDLE TUBES (2)

FLOAT FULCRUM PIN
MAIN BODY
FUEL INLET NEEDLE

VALVE A N D SEAT
DASHPOT
(POWERFLITE ONLY)
CHOKE HOUSING THROTTLE SHA< ;
AND LfcVh
GASKET (POWERFLm C ^
REW (3) / THERMOSTAT SHAFT

ƒ A N D LEVER
FAST IDLE
CAM
MAIN DISCHARGE JETS (TUBES) (2)

,. OVER MAIN METERING JET (2)
WASHER (3)
THROTTLE VALVES
C A M RETAINING
WASHER
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW
GASKETS (2)
SPRING
MAIN JET PLUGS'(2) LEVER
NUT LOCKWASHER
CAM CONTACT LEVER -NUT
CHOKE POSITIONING SCREW (4)
SPRING
IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (2
THROTTLE BODY COTTER PIN
SCREW (4) THROTTLE SHAFT A N D LEVER

(STD. TRANS. OR OVERDRIVE)
54x498
Figure 53 — PowerFlow 6 Dual Carburetor—Disassembled
MyMopar.com
Remove the power by-pass jet and gasket. See IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW
Figure 51. Test plunger action of by-pass jet. Invert
the main body and remove main metering jet
plugs. Use Tool T-24924 to remove the jets. Then
use Tool T-24967 to remove the main discharge
jets or tubes. The tool has a tapered right hand
thread and should be screwed into the jet. See
Figure 52. The threads formed by the tool will not
damage the jets. The main body is attached to the
throttle body by four screws in the bottom of the
throttle body. If separated always use a new
gasket.
NOTCH- 7— `*¯-¯--.-NOTCH
NEW RETAINING SCREWS

THROTTLE BODY 54x434
A new throttle shaft can be installed but if clear- Figure 54 — Removing or Installing Throttle
ance between shaft and bore is excessive enough Shaft and Valves
to cause poor idling, the assembly should be
replaced.
DIAGONAL CUT TOWARD
To remove the shaft, first remove the lock nut OPPOSITE SIDE
OF SMALL VENTURI
located in the choke housing. Then remove throttle
valve retaining screws. These should be removed
with care to prevent screws being broken in the
shaft. Mark valves so that they are installed in
their respective bores. See Figure 54. When valves
are installed, make sure that the small cut in the
valve is toward the idle port.
CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY MAIN DISCHARGE JET

(OR TUBE)
Assemble throttle body to main body using a
new gasket. Place main discharge jets on Tool 54x437
T-24967 and install into position. See Figure 55.
Make sure the opening in end of tube (diagonal Figure 55 — Installing Main Metering Discharge
cut end) is facing opposite side of small venturi. Jets or Tubes
Insert main metering jets over discharge jets and
tighten with Tool T-24924. Then install gasket and
plug. Install power by-pass jet and gasket. FUEL APPROX, ACCELERATOR PUMP
1/2 INCH DEEP PLUNGER
TESTING ACCELERATOR PUMP
Install the accelerator pump inlet check ball BRASS ROD
(3/16 inch diameter) in the check ball seat at the

bottom of the pump cylinder. Install the acceler- NO FUEL TO BE
EMITTED HERE
ator pump discharge check ball (¼ inch diameter) (PUMP DISCHARGE
in the orifice in the center passage of the discharge PASSAGE)
strut section of the main body.
NO FUEL TO BE
EMITTED HERE
Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl, (PUMP INTAKE
approximately ½ inch deep. Raise the plunger and PASSAGE)
54x441
press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel the air
from the pump passage. Using a small, clean brass
rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on Figure 56 — Testing Accelerator Pump Intake
its seat. See Figure 56. and Discharge Check Balls
MyMopar.com
[FLOAT UP HELD AGAINST Again raise the plunger and press downward.
FUEL INLET NEEDLE TOOL No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or
discharge passages. Install the discharge cluster
gasket, cluster and screw. Tighten securely.
FLOAT LEVEL
Check the float for leaks or damage. If satisfac-

tory for further service, install in position in the
carburetor bowl. Assemble the fuel inlet needle
valve, seat and gasket, then insert in position in
the main body. Tighten securely. (If the needle is
ridged or badly worn, install a new needle valve
54x444 and seat assembly.) Install the float fulcrum pin
retaining spring in position and force under lip of
Figure 57 — Checking Float Level with
Special Gauge
boss to keep fulcrum pin in position.
Using a "T" scale or Tool T-25569, check the
float setting, as shown in Figure 57. The top of
float must be 3/16 inch from the top of main body
(gasket removed) with the gauge at the center of
float and the float lip held firmly against the fuel
inlet needle. To change the float setting, bend the
float lip toward the needle to lower, and away
from needle to raise the float. See Figure 58.
MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY

Install the idle tubes in the main body. These
tubes are interchangeable. Install the vacuum
power piston and plunger in the air horn. Lock in
[ position by prick punching on the retaining rim.
54x453
Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding
Figure 58 — Bending Float Lip to Obtain
exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder
Correct Setting
smooth operation, install a new piston assembly.
Slide a new air horn gasket over accelerator pump
AIR HORN
plunger, and down against air horn. Lower air
horn straight down on main body, with the accel-
erator pump plunger sliding into its well, as shown
in Figure 59. (Be sure the leather on the pump does
NEW GASKET not curl or fold back.) Install air horn retaining
screws and lockwashers, then tighten screws and
lockwashers, then tighten securely. Work the
accelerator pump plunger several times, to be sure
it operates freely.
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
MAIN BODY
REPAIR
Fast Idle—To make the fast idle adjustment,
BLOCK 54x443 remove thermostatic coil housing, then insert the
Figure 59 — Installing Air Horn Assembly thermostat cover screw through the loop of the
on Main Body coil spring Tool T-25906. Install screw into upper
MyMopar.com
right hand mounting hole in the housing. Hook

the opposite end of spring to the long tang of the CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG
thermostat lever. (This spring is calibrated for

use in making the choke positioning spring set-
ting.) Remove the spring from the fast idle adjusting
screw, then reinstall screw without the spring. TOOL
With the throttle valves in fully "closed" position,
turn the fast idle screw in so it just contacts the
throttle lever. Now, turn adjusting screw in 4½
turns for 8 cylinder carburetors or 5¼ turns for 6
cylinder carburetors. (This will open the throttle
valves a predetermined amount.)
With the choke valve closed and the throttle 54x455
lever held against the fast idle screw, insert a Figure 61 — Bending Cam Contact Lever
number 48 drill between the tang on the contact to Obtain Setting
lever and the first step of the fast idle cam, as
shown in Figure 60. To adjust, slide Tool T-25863
over tang, on cam contact lever as shown in Figure CHOKE VALVE ( C L O S E D ) ~ O T -,
1
61. Bend tang toward or away from fast idle cam
n
\
until correct clearance has been obtained. After J—FAST IDLE ROD
adjusting, make sure the tang is parallel to the - ( B E N D AS REQUIRED AT THIS POINT
throttle shaft. Remove fast idle speed adjusting CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING
screw and reinstall with spring. .FAST IDLE CAM
Fast Idle Cam—To position the fast idle cam, <f×r ^CALIBRATED SPRING
open the throttle valves sufficiently to clear the (57 Jvv .THERMOSTAT CRANK LEVER
fast idle cam. Close the choke valve tightly by CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG/ >/vJ
^ /av)`· MAX. \
applying pressure on the choke valve. Now, force Jj
the throttle valves closed against the tension of
the cam positioning spring, as shown in Figure 62. 5ÓP2Q7
In this position, the tang on the cam contact lever

should just clear the high step of the fast idle cam. Figure 62 — Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment
See Figure 62. The clearance should not exceed
FAST IDLE CHOKE CLOSED

ADJUSTING
SCREW
CAM CONTACT
LEVER TANG
ADJUSTING SCREW
SPRING-
N O . 48
DRILL
54x456
Figure 60 — Checking Clearance for Fast Idle Figure 63 — Bending Fast Idle Rod to
with No. 48 Drill Obtain Setting
MyMopar.com
.020 inch. Adjust if necessary, by bending the fast

— i — FOR DRILL SIZE REFER TO SPECIFICATIONS idle rod (at angle) until the correct clearance has
THERMOSTAT LEVER TANG
been obtained. Use Tool T-109-213, as shown in
(BEND AS REQUIRED)
Figure 63.
Choie Positioning Spring—To make the choke
positioning spring adjustment, slide weight. Tool
CHOKE POSITIONING SPRI T-25864 over the choke lever as shown in Figure 64.
Hold the carburetor in a vertical position. Close
the throttle valves, making certain the cam contact
lever tang is resting on the high step of the fast
CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG idle cam. (It may be necessary to rotate the fast
^CALIBRATED SPRING
idle cam to obtain this adjustment.) Now, lightly
close the throttle valves. The choke valve should
open just enough to insert a number 31 drill be-
tween choke valve and wall of air horn. To adjust,
Figure 64 — View Showing Choke Positioning
Spring Adjustment
bend the tang of the thermostat lever that contacts
the choke positioning spring, using long nose
pliers, as shown in Figure 65. After adjustment has
THERMOSTAT been made, remove weight from choke lever.
LEVER TANG
Unloader Adjustment—To make the unloader
adjustment, lightly hold the choke valve closed,
then open the throttle valves to wide open position.
The choke valve should open sufficiently to allow
a number 19 drill to be inserted between the choke
valve and wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 66.
To adjust, bend the tang of the cam contact lever
using long nose pliers, as shown in Figure 67. Re-
move the calibrated spring (Tool T-25906) and
screw, then reinstall thermostat coil housing and
gasket, (be sure and align index marks).
CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING
54×457
Hold choke open and then open and close the
throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle opera-
Figure 65 — Bending Thermostat Lever tion indicates improper assembly or adjustment
Tang to Obtain Setting of the choke mechanism. With the throttle valves
held in open position, open the choke valve slowly
to wide open position. There should be no bind
NO. 19 DRILL (ALL MODELS) throughout the entire travel of choke mechanism.
Accelerator Pump Adjustment —The following
adjustment is made with the accelerator pump rod
in the center hole of the throttle lever. To check
the accelerator pump travel, hold the carburetor in
a vertical position, then operate the accelerator
pump to permit the check ball at the bottom of well
CONTACT LEVER TANG to take its normal position on seat. With the choke
(BEND AS REQUIRED)
valve held open, measure the travel of the accel-
erator pump as the throttle valves are moved from
open to fully closed position. The accelerator pump
travel should measure from 3/16 to 7/32 inches on
six cylinder carburetors, as shown in Figure 68.
Figure 66 — View Showing Unloader Adjustment To adjust, remove the accelerator pump rod
MyMopar.com
from the center hole in the throttle lever and bend

(at angle), using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure
69. Bend either up or down until correct travel has
been obtained. Re-install rod.
Dash Pot—With the idle speed adjusting screw
set for normal idle speed, there should be 1/16 to
3/32 inches clearance between the end of dash-
pot plunger on throttle lever when the plunger is
pushed to the end of its travel. To adjust, loosen
LEVER CAM
locknut and turn dashpot in bracket to obtain
correct clearance.
Kickdown Switch—With the throttle valves in LONG NOSE PLIERS
wide open position, there should be 1/64 to 1/32 54x458
inches clearance between ear on the throttle lever

Figure 67 — Bending Cam Contact Lever Tang
and the threaded portion of the switch housing. To
for Correct Setting
adjust, loosen adjusting nuts "F" and move switch
in or out until correct clearance has been obtained.
7. CARBURETOR-FOUR BARREL
The four barrel carburetor supplied as special 3/16" TO 7/32
equipment on Hy-Fire V-8 engines is essentially

two dual carburetors combined. The primary side
of the carburetor contains the metering rods, ac- THROTTLE LEVER
(CLOSED POSITION)
celerator pump and integral automatic choke sys-

tem. The secondary side contains the velocity
valves which allow the secondary side to supply
fuel only under certain operating conditions, thus
preventing waste of fuel. See Figure 70.
The carburetor contains two float circuits, two

low speed circuits, two high speed circuits, one Figure 68 — View Showing Accelerator Pump
pump circuit and one integral automatic choke Adjustment
circuit.
HIGH SPEED SYSTEM
The high speed system provides fuel through

the carburetor for part or full throttle operation.
Primary Side—The metering rods are con-
trolled mechanically by throttle linkage and also
by the vacuum piston and provide the proper
amount of fuel according to the demand.
Secondary Side—Fuel at high speed is metered

in the secondary side by main metering jets when
the velocity valves open. The velocity valves, con-
trolled by the choke and speed of air through the
carburetor, are locked in the closed position until Figure 69 — Bend Accelerator Pump Rod
the choke is almost fully opened. When the choke at Lower Angle
MyMopar.com
BOVHI VENTS Í4I ,.i¾¾iL·~. tNTEGRM AUTOMATIC CHOK£

the bowl connects the two bowl chambers which
balances air pressure in the float bowl.
CHOKE CONNECTOR BOD \
1
• * ¾^‰,
• l ( ï """°*"
1¾ CA«BURfTO« MOOtt
DISASSEMBLY OF CARBURETOR
THROTTU CONNECTOR ROO^__ •?L J iW'gr*^^'rLl_j' '°ENUHCAÏION TAG
A disassembled view of the carburetor is shown
ftl l ¯ . ^ * S Í ^ ^ ^ ^ J p* - MAN »ODY
^ in Figure 88. Remove the choke connector rod and
IDLE MIXTURE
ADJUSTING SCRfW Í2'
X throttle operating rod. Remove metering rod dust
I
,-. * ¾ ¡ ` ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ` ¾M¾y jPv*'^ THROTTLE BODY
CAM TRIP IEVER
*^·Cfí^>r¾I¾^Mf ¯" V8·OCì!Y VALVt SHAFT
cover and carefully unhook the metering rods from
the vacuumeter link. Then lift out rods. See Figure
' ¯ · , , ¾ F ^ , „ _ , s Ü P * * ' ¯ - VÍIC<ITY VALV6 COUNTEKWBGW
A I* ` VEtOCiTY VAtV¢ tOCKOÜT
70. Take out all air horn to main body screws and
` -.X
FAST IIH£ CAM ANO SP«NG
` I01Ê 5f>öšt> ADJUSTING SC¢íW
Ò- ```^fAST IOU AWU$ïtNG SCREW
carefully lift off the air horn assembly to prevent
``^`TH«OTTU mm Mm SHAFT *«*·W damage to the floats.
Figure 70 — Four Barrel Carburetor IMPORTANT

When the carburetor is disassembled for
valve is fully open and the throttle is opened for service, it is important that parts from the
primary side be separated from those of the
more power or speed, the air through the carbu-
secondary side.
retor opens the velocity valves and additional fuel
is provided through the secondary nozzles to the
engine for high speed operation. Air Horn—Remove both float assemblies from
Anti-Percolation—The nozzle passage is vented air horn. Float pivot pins can be pushed out with
by calibrated plugs or bushings to prevent fuel a small drill. See Figure 71. Remove vacuum pis-
being forced from the discharge nozzles because PRIMARY FLOAT
of heat build up in the carburetor. These are not
to be removed.
VACUUMÊTER
PISTON
LOW SPEED SYSTEM
Fuel for idle or part throttle operation is metered

through the low speed system located in the pri-
mary side. The low speed jets meter the required
amount of fuel during engine idle operation. Turn-
ing the idle mixture adjusting screws in reduces
the air-fuel mixture delivered by the low speed
system. No idle mixture adjusting screws are used FULCRUM PIN
in the secondary side of the carburetor as its opera-
tion is blocked off by the closed velocity valves. ACCELERATOR
PUMP PLUNGER
54x468
Figure 71 — Removing or Installing Primary
The accelerator pump system is contained only
and Secondary Floats
in the primary side of the carburetor. During high
speed engine operation, a vacuum exists at the PLUG A N D GASKET
discharge cluster tubes. To prevent fuel being

drawn from the tubes, the passage is vented to
the float bowl chamber. A discharge check needle
is used below the discharge cluster tubes which
prevents air being drawn into the pump system
when the pump plunger is raised.
FLOAT SYSTEMS
The float systems maintain an adequate supply

of fuel at the proper level for use by the fuel sys-
VACUUMETER LINK 1 54x472
tems. The primary and secondary bowls are sep-
arated by a partition. A passage in the side of Figure 72 — Removing or Installing Filter Screen
MyMopar.com
ton by rotating 90 degrees in either direction and CHOKE HOUSING

slide out vacuum piston link. Discard the air horn
gasket. Remove both needle valve assemblies
from the air horn. Remove the fuel inlet plug, gas-
ket, and screen. See Figure 72. Loosen metering
arm lock screw and accelerator pump arm lock
screw. Slide out shaft.
Integral Automatic Choke — Remove retainer,
coil housing, gasket and baffle plate. To service
the piston it will be necessary to remove the choke GASKET
valve and choke lever clamp. Screws attaching ATTACHING SCREWS
54x478
choke valve are staked and care must be exer-
cised when removing to prevent breaking them in Figure 74 — Removing or Installing
shaft. Choke Housing
Rotate shaft until piston is out of cylinder and

slide assembly out. See Figure 73. Remove the DISCHARGE
three choke housing to air horn screws and re- CLUSTER
move the housing. See Figure 74. Discard gasket.
GASKET
Main Body—Remove discharge cluster as shown
in Figure 75. Invert main body and remove the
pump discharge check needle. Remove main
metering jets, primary side, as shown in Figure
76. Then remove the secondary side main metering
jets. Primary main metering jets are not inter-
changeable with secondary jets.
Remove the idle jets, primary side, as shown in
Figure 76. Then take out the secondary idle jets on
secondary side. Primary idle jets are not inter-
changeable with secondary idle jets. Invert carbu-
retor and remove the four throttle body to main
body screws which are located in the bottom of
the throttle body. Discard the gasket. / 54x480
Throttle Body—Remove the throttle operating Figure 75 — Removing or Installing Accelerator
rod. See Figure 77. Remove screw holding throttle Pump Discharge Cluster
shaft washer, throttle shaft dog. Then slide off IDLE JETS (SECONDARY) * > " * — ‰ ~ V
washer, dog and lever.
11 ß
Ï i f j ¾ / f $ ì IDLE JETS
ùJ*ì**L I t (PRIMARY)
^
CHOKE PISTON
CHOKE HOUSING
CHOKE SHAFT
54×477
Figure 76 — Removing or Installing

Figure 73 — Removing or Installing Choice Piston Main Metering Jets
MyMopar.com
SECONDARY ?
THROTTLE
SHAFT
PRIMARY
LEVER
OPERATING
LEVER
IDLE MIXTURE
THROTTLE OPERATING ROD ADJUSTING SCREWS <

AND SPRINGS ~c;T 54x515
HAIRPIN CLIP - - - * f 7 54x521
Figure 77 — Removing or Installing Figure 79 — Idle Mixture Adjustment Screws

Throttle Operating Rod
• ' * > • PRIMARY OPERATING LEVER

CAM TRIP LEVER
`'` LONG EAR
OF THROTTLE
SHAFT DOG
t r ¯~ A FAST IDLE CAM WIDER PORTION-
54x530 SCREW—•¿T
FAST IDLE CAM SCREW 54x523
Figure 78 — Removing or Installing Figure 80—Installing Primary Operating Lever

Fast Idle Cam Assembly and Throttle Shaft Dog
Remove screw attaching fast idle cam assembly INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY OF CARBURETOR
to throttle body boss, and lift off cam assembly, Throttle Body—Inspect the idle adjustment
cam trip lever and screw as shown in Figure 78. screws for grooves or irregular seating at the
Note position of cam spring tangs on the trip lever. taper of the needle and replace if required. Install
the screws and springs. Do not use a screwdriver.
It is not advisable to remove the throttle shafts
Turn them in by hand and seat lightly. Then back
or valves unless absolutely necessary. The posi-
off one full turn for an approximate adjustment.
tion of each throttle valve in relation to the idle
Refer to Figure 79.
ports is very important to proper engine operation.
If wear in the throttle body is excessive it is ad- Slide the fast idle cam screw through fast idle
visable to install a new throttle body assembly. cam with threaded shank on spring side. See Fig-
When a new shaft is installed, mark the throttle ure 80. Then slide the fast idle cam trip lever over
valve position in the bore before removing them the shoulder on screw, guiding the tang between
from the old shaft. Each valve should be installed the fast idle spring and cam. Install pivot screw
in its respective bore. Use care when removing the and tighten. Make sure all parts operate freely.
valve attaching screws to prevent breaking them
CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS
in the shaft. Remove both idle mixture adjusting
See page 153.
screws and springs from the throttle body.
MyMopar.com
Slide the primary operating lever on primary ACCELERATOR PUMP

shaít with tangs facing away from body. Then DISCHARGE CHECK
NEEDLE
install throttle shaft dog. Offset part of dog should
be facing up, with long ear pointing away from
throttle shaft as shown in Figure 46. Install the
washer and screw and tighten securely. Install the
throttle shaft connector rod.
Place a new throttle body to main body gasket
in position on the main body. Line up throttle body
on main body and install the four attaching screws
and tighten securely.
Testing Accelerator Pump System—Install the
discharge needle valve and pump plunger in main 54x485
body. See Figure 81. Pour a small amount of gaso-
line into the primary side of the float chamber in Figure 81 —Installing Accelerator Pump
main body. Work plunger slowly up and down to Discharge Check Needle
expel all air from the pump passage. Hold the dis-
charge needle valve down with a suitable rod and
apply pressure at the plunger. If leakage is evi- -NEEDLE VALVE SEAT
dent at either the needle valve or the inlet ball
check, clean the passage again and repeat test. If
leakage still occurs replace the needle valve or
inlet check ball as required.
Main Body—Install the primary and secondary
idle jets and tighten securely. Install the primary
and secondary main metering jets. See Figure 76.
Tighten securely. Install the vacuumeter piston
spring in the piston cylinder.
Air Horn—Assemble choke housing to air horn
using a new gasket. Tighten screws securely. As- NEEDLE VALVE,
semble the choke piston to the choke link. Slide SEAT AND GASKET
choke shaft and piston assembly into air horn. See Figure 82 — Installing Needle Valve,
Figure 73. Position the choke valve on the choke Seat, and Gasket
shaft and partially install new screws. Hold valve
in closed position and tap gently to center the
valve. Tighten screws securely. Stake screws to ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT*
ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM
lock them in place. Rotate choke shaft to make
sure it works freely. Do not lubricate choke parts.
Install the baffle plate and gasket, thermostatic
coil housing and retainer ring. Install retaining
screws. Position the index mark of the coil housing
to match the center index mark of the choke hous-
ing. Do not tighten retaining screws excessively.
If original primary and secondary needle valve
assemblies are in good condition, install them in
their respective positions using new gaskets. See
Figure 82. Assemble the float assemblies to the
air horn and make float level and float drop
adjustment. METERING ROD ARM 54x474
Install accelerator pump shaft, pump arm, spacer
and metering rod arm. See Figures 83 and 84. Figure 83 — Installing Accelerator Pump Arm
MyMopar.com
FOUR BARREL CARBURETOR
Model P-27 P-29
Type Downdraft, Four Barrel

Carburetor
Model Number 2253S 23O2S
Choke Control Automatic
Accelerator Pump Top of plunger shaft to top of dust cover boss.
Optional Accelerator Top of pump plunger arm parallel to dust cover

Pump adjustment boss.
Lift part of metering rod arm should just contact

Metering Rod Adjustment vacuumeter link when primary throttle valves
are fully closed and metering rods are bottomed.
Choke Rod .020 in.

Carburetor Adjustments
Velocity Valves 27/64 in. ± 1/64 in.
Choke Unloader 11/64 in. =b 1/64 in.
Fast Idle .012 in. .016 in.
Bend the tang on fast idle cam to permit velocity

Velocity Valve Lockout valves to open slightly before choke valves are
fully open.
Idle Mixture Two adjusting screws ½ to l ½ turns open.
Idle Speed Adjusting Screw—450 to 500 R.P.M.
Primary Floats 3/16 in.
Secondary Floats ¼ in.
Float Drop ½ in. ± 1/16 in.
Make sure lift part of metering arm lines up with Float Level Adjustment—Position gauge T-109-
the center of the vacuumeter link slot. Install the 232 in position as shown in Figure 86. Both floats
vacuumeter link with the tang at the upper port should just clear horizontal part of gauge. Bend
of the slot pointing toward the carburetor. Then float arm to obtain correct adjustment. Floats
connect vacuumeter piston to link. Install the fuel should just barely touch the vertical part of gauge.
inlet filter screen and plug using a new gasket. They can be bent inward for correct adjustment.
Refer to Figure 72. Adjust the secondary float in same manner but
MyMopar.com
METERING ROD ARM ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM FLOAT GAUGE \

PRIMARY FLOATS
FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH

VACUUMETER PISTON LINK 54×473 GAUGE AT THESE POINTS 54x486
Figure 84 — Installing Metering Rod Arm Figure 85—Checking Primary Float Level
1/4 INCH
SECONDARY INCH PRIMARY
FLOAT SETTING FLOAT SETTING
HAIRPIN CLIP
V2 .f Vi6 INCH DROP 54x471
Figure 86 — Checking Float Drop Figure 87—Installing Pump Connector Link
use gauge T-109-222. Note that distance between link spring and carefully install the metering rods.
float and air horn is 3/16 inch for the primary floats Use extra care so as not to bend the metering rods.
and 1/4 inch for the secondary floats. Work the vacuumeter link up and down slowly
to make sure rods operate freely. Attach choke
F]oaí Drop Adjustment—After performing the connector rod and throttle operating rod. Make the
float lever adjustment, invert air horn assembly adjustments after carburetor has been completely
and note distance that floats drop. See Figure 86. assembled.
Both floats should drop 1/2 inch plus or minus 1/16
inch when measured at the center of the float. Bend FOUR BARREL CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
the tang that contacts the needle valve seat to
obtain the correct adjustment. Accelerator Pump Adjustment—Back off idle
speed adjusting screw in order to fully seat pri-
After adjustments are made, remove the floats mary valves in their bores. With throttle valves
carefully and install a new air horn gasket. Then seated, the distance from the top of plunger shaft
reinstall floats. Assemble spring, cap, and pump to the top of the dust cover boss should be 19/64
plunger and install in air horn and engage the inch. See Figure 89. Make sure that fast idle ad-
pump connector link. Secure with hairpin clip. See justing screw does not hold the throttle open while
Figure 87. making the adjustment. To adjust the pump set-
ting, bend the throttle connector rod at the upper
Carefully lower air horn assembly into main
angle with tool T-109-213. See Figure 90.
body. Be sure pump plunger enters the pump cylin-
der evenly. Install attaching screws and tighten Optional Accelerator Pump Adjustment—Hold
securely. Engage the loop ends of the vacuumeter a straight edge across the face of the dust cover
MyMopar.com
DUST COVER
DUST COVER GASKET

METERING ROD ARM SPACER
METERING ROD ARM CHOKE VALVE
CHOKE HOUSING HAIRPIN CLIP

RETAINING RING
ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM
PUMP CONNECTOR LINK
METERING ROD SPRING
VACUUMETER PISTON LINK
INTEGRAL CHOKE
METERING ROD
HOUSING^
SPRING BRACKET
CO!L HOUSING GASKET
AIR HORN
CHOKE BAFFLE PLATE
CHOKE PISTON PIN CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
CHOKE PISTON - CHOKE SHAFT LEVER SCREW NUT
CHOKE SHAFT AIR HORN GASKET
CHOKE HOUSING
CHOKE HOUSING GASKET " — — ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT
VACUUM£TER PISTON
* Î 9 5 5 CHOKE ASSEMBLY VACUUMETER PISTON SPRING
ACCELERATOR PUMP SPRING
SHOWN ABOVE; 1956 FUEL JNLET N£EDLE VALVE
HAS COVER AND ARM FUEL INLET N€EDLE VALVE SEAT
AND SEAT ASSEMBLY
ONIY AS SHOWN BE- FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVE FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVE
LOW; 1956 CHOKE
ACCELERATOR PUMP FLOAT FULCRUM PIN
ASSEMBLY LOCATED IN
INTAKE MANIFOLD. SECONDARY FLOAT
PRIMARY FLOAT
FLOAT FULCRUM PIN
PUMP JET HOUSING SCREW
PUMP JET HOUSING
PUMP DISCHARGE NEEDLE PUMP JET HOUSING GASKET
SECONDARY MAIN JETS
SECONDARY ¡DLE JETS
PRIMARY IDLE JETS
BALL CHECK RETAINER
PRIMARY MAIN JETS
CARBURETOR MAIN BODY
ACCELERATOR PUMP PASSAGE PLUG
MAIN SODY GASKET
VELOCITY VALVES
SECONDARY THROTTLE LEVER SPR!NG

SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVES
THROTTLE OPERATING ROD PRIMARY THROTTLE VALVES
DOG AND ARM RETAINER SCREW CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD
THROTTLE SHAFT SPACER WASHER HAIRPIN CLIP

THROTTLE SHAFT DOG VELOCITY VALVE SHAFT
THROTTLE SHAFT ARM Î¯AST D.E C A M V RF H
^ HA¦PH'« U P
IDLE MIXTURE NEEDLE SPRING
IDLE MIXTURE NEEDLES j THROTTLE
IDLE MIXTURE NEEDLE SPRIN< "^ ` CONNIC¯*GP PCL·
THROTTLE BOD* G?LF <

—Í:* 1
ADJUSTIN SCREW SPRING
IDLE SPEED SCREW
CAM TRIP LEVER /
FAST iOL£ CAM SPRING
FAST IDLE AM /
ThRO"\t Gf*NEC`"GP POL CJ?
56P182
Figure 88 — Four Barrel Carburetor—Disassembled

MyMopar.com
FLAT O N PUMP ARM-PARALLEL

.WITH EDGE OF STRAIGHTEDGE ~f
•;- - `` 54x488
THROTTLE VALVES IN CLOSED POSITION 54x490
Figure 89 — Measuring Accelerator Pump Travel
Figure 9T —Optional Accelerator Pump
Adjustment
METERING RODS BOTTOMED
TOOL
THROTTLE VALVES
SEATED (CLOSED)
FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW 54x489

54x491
Figure 90 — Bending Throttle Connector Link
Figure 92 — Metering Rod Adjustment
boss. See Figure 91. Adjust length of throttle con-

nector rod at upper angle until the float on top of
the pump arm (under set screw) is parallel with CHOKE VALVE
upper edge of straight edge. HELD CLOSED
Metering Rod Adjustment—Loosen metering rod

arm just enough to provide a slight drag on the
shaft. Lift lever slightly. With the primary throttle
valves seated in the bores, depress the vacuumeter
link until the metering rods bottom. See Figure 92. FAST IDLE
Hold lift part of metering rod arm in contact with CAM TANG
vacuumeter link and tighten the set screw securely.
Choke Rod Adjustment—Loosen the choke lever
clamp screw. Insert a .020 inch wire gauge tool
T-109-29 between the tang on the fast idle cam
and the boss on the throttle body casting. Hold .021 INCH WIRE GAUGE
gauge in place by pressure applied to choke lever 54x492
clamp and tighten screw. See Figure 93. Figure 93 — Choke Rod Adjustment
MyMopar.com
, FAST IDLE SCREW O N

27/64 INCH^ VELOCITY VALVE SECONDARY HIGH STEP OF O
GAUGE - . m \ OPERATING R O D -
DISCONNECTED
.012 INCH
L¢TANG WIRE GAUGE
ƒ RESTING
VlSTOP
STOP x
54x531 \V' ' S 54x494
Figure 94 — Velocity Valve Adjustment Figure 97 — Fast Idle Adjustment
3/Ì6 INCH GAUGE — Velocity Valve Adjustment—Disconnect second-

ary throttle operating rod from the primary throttle
lever. Insert gauge in throttle bore between the
lower edge of the velocity valve and the bore as
shown in Figure 94. The tang of the throttle lever
should just touch its stop on the throttle body. To
adjust position, bend the tang on the lever to obtain
the 27/64 inch adjustment required between the
lower end of the velocity valve and throttle bore.
Reconnect secondary throttle operating rod.
Cho¿e L7nioader Adjustment—Hold the primary

throttle valves in the wide open position and insert
THROTTLE
VALVES HELD IN
a 3/16 inch unloader gauge Tool T-109-28 or a
WIDE OPEN 3/16 inch drill between the upper edge of choke
POSITION 54x532 valve and inner dividing wall of air horn. See
Figure 95. Apply light finger pressure to the upper
part of the choke valve. A slight drag should be
Figure 95—Checking Unloader Adjustment felt on the gauge as it is withdrawn. If too little or
too great a drag is noted, bend the unloader tang
on the throttle lever as shown in Figure 96 to obtain
the correct adjustment.
UNLOADER TANG Fast Idle Adjustment—Insert a .012 inch wire
gauge, Tool T-l09-200 or a 1/64 inch drill between
TOOL
the primary throttle valves and side of bore oppo-
site the idle ports. Hold choke in fully closed posi-
tion and adjust the fast idle screw in until it is
resting on the high step of the fast idle cam and a
slight drag can be felt on the tool as it is withdrawn
from the bore. See Figure 97.
Velocity Valve Lock-Out Adjustment—This ad-
justment must be made after the fast idle adjust-
ment. When the choke valve is fully closed, the
54x493
hook end of the lockout arm should make maxi-
Figure 96 — Bending Unloader Tang mum contact of the velocity lever locking step.
MyMopar.com
CHOKE VALVE PowerFlow 6—When the engine is cold the ex-

(NOT QUITE
FULLY OPENED) haust gases are deflected to the heat chamber of
the intake manifold and then circulate to the
exhaust manifold. See Figure 100. As the thermo-
static coil heats it loses tension and the valve
INTAKE RISERS
PATH FOLLOWED BY
EXHAUST
GASES
:EDGE OF HOOK SHOULD
JUST CLEAR ARM
Figure 98 — Checking Velocity Valve Lockout

Adjustment
Bend the lock out arm if necessary. Open choke

valve slowly. It should be possible to open the Figure 99 — Cold Engine Exhaust Gas Flow—
velocity valves slightly before the choke valve is Hy-Fire V-8
fully open. See Figure 98. Bend the tang on fast
idle cam which raises or lowers the lockout arm
to obtain the correct release.
Idle Speed and Idle Mixture Adjustments—Idle

speed and idle mixture adjustments must be made
after the engine has reached operating tempera-
ture and choke is off the fast idle cam. Adjust
engine speed between 450-500 R.P.M. at the idle
speed adjusting screw. Then proceed to adjust the
idle mixture screws to obtain a smooth idling
engine. Changing the idle mixture may change
the idle speed.
55P1202
8. MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL
Figure 100 — Cold Engine Exhaust Gas Flow—
The purpose of the manifold heat control is to PowerFlow 6
direct hot exhaust gas to a heat chamber in the
intake manifold and preheat the fuel droplets.
Thus the fuel is vaporized to a greater degree - HEAT CONTROL VALVE
STOP STUD
before entering into the combustion chambers,
providing easier starting of cold engines.
Hy-Fire V-8—When a cold engine is started the

thermostatic coil exerts enough tension to keep
the valve closed. Thus, exhaust gases from the
right manifold pass through the exhaust crossover
VS -ì
branch in the intake manifold and into the left THERMOSTATIC VALVE SHAFT
COIL SPRING
exhaust manifold. See Figure 99.
When the spring heats up, it loses tension and

the valve opens, permitting exhaust gas from the Figure 101 —Thermostatic Coil Spring
right exhaust manifold to pass directly to the Hy-Fire V-8
exhaust pipe. (240, 260, 270 cu. in. engine)
MyMopar.com
.-*-7 INTAKE AND EXHAUST

^™‰í«»‰^ 1 MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY
Ý\ V THERMOSTATIC COIL
SPRING
STOP STUD
,VALVE SHAFT
THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING ,KEY
COUNTERWEIGHT
STOP STUD
VALVE SHAFT
DIRECTION OF WRAP
51x403
ß 51x411
Figure 102 — Thermostatic Coil Spring— Figure 105 — Installing Counterweight—
PowerFlow 6 PowerFlow 6
COUNTERWEIGHT closes the heat chamber permitting exhaust gas

to flow directly through the exhaust manifold.
BUMPER
SERVICING HEAT CONTROL
The operation of the manifold heat control valve

is fully automatic. No adjustments are required.
It is good practice to periodically check its opera-
STOP STUD RIGHT EXHAUST tion for free movement.
MANIFOLD
THERMOSTATIC
COIL SPRING With the engine idling, accelerate engine mo-
mentarily to wide open throttle. The counterweight
should respond by moving clockwise ½ inch and
return to its normal position. If there is no move-
ment, the shaft is frozen or the spring is weak or
Figure 103 — Thermostatic Coil Spring—Hy-Fire V-8
broken. To free a frozen shaft, lubricate both ends
(277 cu. in. engine)
with a good penetrating oil and allow to stand for
several minutes. Then work rotate shaft back and
forth until it operates freely. Apply a small quan-
COUNTERWEIGHT
tity of graphite paste at the bearing surfaces.
To replace a weak or broken thermostat spring,
loosen counterweight lock nut and slide counter-
SHAFT
weight off shaft. Then remove spring. It is impor-
tant that coil spring be installed in its proper
location on the shaft and with the correct number
THERMOSTAT of degrees of wrap. See Figure 101, 102, or 103.
COIL SPRING
It is equally important that the counterweight
be correctly indexed on the shaft for proper heat
control operation. See Figure 104 or Figure 105.
9. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD

The accumulation of carbon in the exhaust mani-
Figure 104—Installing Counterweight— fold ports should be removed by using a stiff wire
Hy-Fire V-8 brush or by sand blasting. Thoroughly wash and
(240, 260, 270 cu. in. engine)
dry with compressed air.
MyMopar.com
EXHAUST CROSSOVER PASSAGE
WELL FOR A U T O M A T I C
CHOKE
TEMPERATURE EXHAUST CROSS CARBURETOR

56Pi2S SENDING UNIT OVER PASSAGE M O U N T I N G FLANGE
Figure 106 — Intake Manifold—Hy-F¡re V¯8 Figure 108 — Intake Manifold—Hy-F¡re V-8
(240, 260, 270 cu. in. engine) (277 cu. in. engine)
Layers of carbon act as a heat insulator and

Hy-Fire V-8—Before removing the intake mani- retard the heating action of the exhaust gases in
fold, drain the cooling system. Carefully inspect the heat chamber of the intake manifold. Thus,
the exhaust manifolds for evidence of cracks or fuel will not vaporize as much as it could, causing
distortion. poor engine performance.
Inspect the exhaust crossover passage in the PowerFlow 6—Before servicing manifolds it is
intake manifold and in the cylinder heads. See necessary to drain the cooling system since the
Figure 106 or 108. If engine performance is poor, two long cap screws adjacent to the heat riser
pressure check the intake manifold to make sure section extend into the cylinder block water pas-
that leakage exists from the exhaust crossover sage. See Figure 109. Clean the manifolds and
passage into any of the intake passages. Check inspect for cracks or distortion. Remove carbon
mating surfaces for parallelism with a quality build-up from exhaust passages and pay particu-
straight edge. Always use new gaskets when lar attention to the heat riser chamber of the
servicing manifolds. intake manifold.
NOTi:
iNSTAi_L GA'-`Kfcl ÍHIS W A Y ONLY.
li ir^'.-iTALlLÍ` WC O N G WILL
PART A Ü V BLfX K HfcAl TUBF
CAVI1Y
- * ‰ • `·
. ^ - GAbKET
T
,-· V il_.N INC NIJT
EXHAUST
:HOKF HFAT TUBE CA\'It Y ' MANIFOLD
— RIGHT
1
I. Hi I b HFAT "UBfc ¯¯¯¯¯*'
,V i'NTirJC Nl,T À
9 r HLAT CONTROL
VA^VE
í JT Y bXHAUST PIPF
CROSSOVFR P¡PF
5 2 x 517
Figure 107 — Exhaust Manifolds, Gaskets and Figure 109 — Intake and Exhaust Manifold;
Exhaust Pipes—Hy-F¡re V¯8 PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
Assemble the intake and exhaust manifolds loosen the tail pipe clamps and slide the tail pipe
using a new gasket. Apply sealer to the long cap to the rear.
screws leading into the water passage to prevent
leakage. It is important that the conical washers ALIGNMENT OF EXHAUST SYSTEM PARTS
at the flange ends of the exhaust manifold be
Whenever any part of the exhaust system has
installed. These washers allow the manifold to
been replaced, leave the attaching bolts and
expand and contract without loosening. Tighten
clamps loose and run engine to allow all parts of
intake and exhaust manifold bolts alternately to
the system to align themselves. Then, tighten all
insure correct seating.
bolts and clamps securely, making sure there is
no interference.
10. EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER A N D
TAIL PIPE 11. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
The exhaust pipe and muffler are welded to- Diagnosis procedures concerning units of the
gether, forming a complete assembly. To replace fuel and exhaust systems are included in the vari-
the muffler, the exhaust pipe should be cut off as ous procedures described in the Engine Section of
close to the front of the muffler as possible. Then, this manual.
MyMopar.com
181
SECTION XII
ENGINE
Hy-Fire V-8 and PowerFlow 6
Page Page
Data and 11. Camshaft and Bearings 198
Specifications 182, 184, 186 12. Chain Case Cover, Gasket,
1. Cylinder Head and Gasket 181 and Oil Seal 200
2. Oil Pan and Gasket 183 13. Timing Chain and Sprockets 201
3. Cylinder Block 185 14. Valves-Hy-F¡re V-8 203
4. Core Hole Plugs 187 15. Valves-PowerFlow 6 207
5. Pistons 187 16. Flywheel 210
6. Piston Pins 188 17. Engine Mountings 210
7. Piston Rings 189 18. Replacement Engines 211
8. Crankshaft 189 19. Engine Oiling System 211
9. Crankshaft Bearings 191 20. Engine Tune-Up Procedures 221
10. Connecting Rods and Bearings 195 2 1 . Diagnosis Procedures 223
1. CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET REPLACEMENT
When a cylinder head is removed, exercise care V-8 Engines—Remove intake manifolds, exhaust
to prevent damage to the mating surfaces of the manifolds, and rocker covers. When working on
cylinder head and cylinder block. Clean the ma- 241, 260, or 270 cu. in. Hy-Fire V-8 engines, remove
chined surfaces and inspect for nicks or scratches. the rocker shaft assemblies and slide out all push
Inspect all cored passages. Check surfaces for rods. When working on 277 cu. in. V-8 engines, re-
parallelism with a quality straight edge. move only the push rods. To do this, back out the
tappet adjusting screw in rocker arm until push rod
A new gasket should always be installed when- is clear of the adjustment screw. Then slide arm to
ever the cylinder head is removed. Make sure that one side, compressing rocker shaft spring, and lift
all holes are punched out. out push rod. See Figure 1. Remove each push rod
DOWEL HOLES
JL
56P222
Figure 1 — Removing Push Rods on 277 cu. in. Figure 2 — Installing Cylinder Head on Hy-Fire
Hy-F¡re V-8 Engine V-8 Engine
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
P-27 P-29
MODEL P-26, P-28
24Ocu.¡n. 260 cu. in. 270 cu. in. 277 cu. in.
Number of Cylinders 6 8
Taxable Horsepower 25.4 37.9 40.6 42.2 45
Piston Displacement (cu. in.) 230 241 260 270 211
Bore 3-1/4 in. 3-7/16 in. 3-9/16 in. 3-5/8 in. 3-3/4 in.
Stroke 4-5/8 in. 3-1/4 in. 3-1/8 in.
Compression Ratio 7.4 to 1 7.6 to 1 7.6 to 1 8.0 1to 1

Maximum Brake Horsepower 117 at 125 at 157 at 167 at 180 at 187 at
3600 RPM 3600 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM 4400 RPM
Maximum Torque (Ft. Lbs.) 194 at 200 at 217 at 230 at 260 at 265 at
1600 RPM 1600 RPM 2400 RPM 2400 RPM 2400 RPM 2400 RPM
Compression Pressure at 120 to 150 P.S.I. 125 to 155 P.S.I. 125 to 1 65 P.S.I.
min. cranking speed of 150
RPM, plugs removed, and
wide open throttle
Maximum Variation 10 P.S.I. 15 P.S.I.

Between Cylinders
Cylinder Numbering 1-2-3-4-5-6 Left Bank 1-3-5-7

(From Front of Engine) Right Bank 2-4-6-8
Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4 1.8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Type Replaceable — Steel Backed Babbitt

:ting R
Diameter and Length 2-1/16 in. x 1. in. 1-15/16 in. x 13/16 in. 2-1/8 in. x
irings
27/32 in.
Clearance Desired .0005 in. to .0015 in.
Side Clearance .006 in. to .011 in. .006 in. to .014 in.
Type Replaceable — Steel Backed Babbitt
Number of Bearings 4 5
Clearance Desired .0005 in. to .0015 in.
Diameter (Nominal) 2-1/2 in. 2-3/8 in. 2-1/2 in.

Main]
Length No. 1— 1-15/64 in. 27/32 in. 7/8 in.

No. 2— 1-1/32 in. 27/32 in. 7/8 in.
No. 3— 1-1/32 in. 13/32 in. 1-5/32 in.
No. 4— 1-7/8 27/32 in. 7/8 in.
No. 5— 1-9/16 in. 1-9/16 in.
(Data and Specifications continued on p a g e s 184 and 186)

MyMopar.com
ENGINE 183
in the same manner. Place them in a suitable rack

in order that each push rod can be re-installed in its
original position. Remove cylinder head bolts and
carefully lift off cylinder head. Note dowel pin
guides in cylinder block. See Figure 2.
CAUTION
(241, 260, 270 cu. in.)
Hy-Fîre V-8—Extreme caution must be exer-
cised when tightening the rocker shaft bolts
and nuts so that the hydraulic tappets have
time to bleed down to their operating length.
If tappets are forced down too rapidly, dam-
age to the push rods, tappet bodies or rocker
arms will result. 4x341
Figure 4 — Sequence for Tightening Cylinder
PowerFlow 6 — When installing the cylinder Heads—Hy-F¡re V-8
head, always use a new gasket. Coat the threads
of the cap screws with sealer except the three
screws that lead into the intake manifold ports. If EXHAUST VALVE
PUSH RODS
a sealer is used on these cap screws, there is a
possibility that it will be drawn into the valves.
TORQUING SEQUENCE
Cylinder head bolts should be tightened in se-
guence. See Figures 3 and 4. Tighten all bolts
evenly the first time around to a torque of 35 foot
pounds. Repeat the tightening procedure and
tighten the bolts in sequence to the specified
torque. Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached. Then recheck all cylinder
head bolts and tighten to specified torque.
Hy-Fire V-8 85 ft. lbs.
PowerFlow 6 70 ft. lbs.
2. OIL PAN AND GASKET Figure 5 — Push Rods Installed—241, 260,

Before installing the oil pan, clean the pan and 270 cu. in. Hy-F¡re V-8
the pan rail of the cylinder block. The right and
left side gaskets may be installed with a suitable
(V8-NEOPRENE SEAL
sealer applied to both sides of the gasket. End ¦ 6 „cORK GASKET
gaskets on PowerFlow 6 oil pans should be in-
stalled so that the ends stick out above the oil pan GASKFT
about ¼ inch. Do not cut off the ends. The ends
will compress against the block and form a better
GASKET
seal. See Figure 6. Hy-Fire V-8 engine oil pans use
a neoprene type seal at both ends.
DRAIN PLUG
SIDE RAIL GASKET

OVERLAPS SEAL-
DO NOT CUT OFF
ENDS OF GASKET
(V8-NEOPRENE SEAL
FRONT
6 CORK GASKET
Figure 3 — Sequence for Tightening Cylinder Figure 6—Oil Pan Gaskets and Seals
Head—PowerFlow 6 Installed—Hy-Fire V¯8
MyMopar.com
ENGINE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)

P-27 P-29
MODEL P-26, P¯28
240 cu. in. 260 cu. in 270 cu. in. 277 cu. in
Type Counter-Balanced
End Thrust Taken By Rear Main Bearing No. 3 Main Bearing
End Play .003 in. to .007 in. .002 in. to .007 in.
Drive Silent Chain
Bearing Type Replaceable—Steel Backed Babbitt
Number of Bearings
Thrust Taken By Thrust Plate
End Play .002 in. to .006 in.
Bearing Clearance .001 in. to .003 in.
Diameter No. 1— 2 in. x 1-3/32 in. 2 in. x 7/8 in.
and Length No. 2— 1-31/32 in. x 7/8 in. 1-63/64 in. x 3/4 in.
No. 3— 1-15/16 in. x 7/8 in. 1-31/32 in. x 3/4 in.
No. Bored in Block 1-61/64 in. x 3/4 in.
No. 1-7/16 in. x 7/8 in. 1-9/16 in. x 15/16 in.
Adjustment None
Number of Links 48 68
Width 1 in.
Stem Diameter .340 in. to .341 in. .372 in. x .373 in. (Std.)
Head Diameter 1-17/32 in. 1-23/32 in. 1-27/32 in.
> Length 4-27/32 in. 4-1/4 in. 4-35/64 in.
I Stem to Guide Clearance .001 in. to .003 in.
Face Angle 45<
Stem Diameter .340 in. to .341 in. .371 in. to .372 in.
Head Diameter 1-13/32 in. 1-15/32 in. 1-9/16 in.
Length 4-25/32 in. 4-13/64 in. 4-31/64 in.
Stem to Guide Clearance .003 in. to .005 in. .002 in. to .004 in.
Face Angle 45¢
Number 12 16
Free Length 2 in. 1-15/16 in. 2 in.

CO
Pressure (Valve Open) 107 to 115 lbs. 134 to 146 lbs. 160-172 lbs.
I Pressure (Valve Closed)

at 1-3/8 in.
40 to 45 lbs.
1-3/4 in.
at 1-5/16 in.
49 to 57 lbs.
1-11/16 in.
at 1-5/16 in.
68-76 lbs.
at 1-11/16 in
(Data and Specifications continued on page 186)
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 185
3. CYLINDER BLOCK
When reconditioning cylinder bores, it is im-
portant to remove the top ridge before pistons are
removed from the cylinder block. Use a reliable
ridge reamer for this operation. See Figure 8. Care
must be exercised so as not to cut below the top of
the upper piston ring position in the bore. Cover
pistons to catch cuttings. Clean cylinder bores after
removing ridge. Pistons and connecting rod as- CUTTING TOOL
semblies must be removed from the top. Rotate

crankshaft until piston is at bottom dead center. GUIDES
Then remove cap and push out piston. Always
reinstall connecting rod cap to prevent mixing.
CHECKING CYLINDER BORES Figure 8 — Removing Cylinder Bore Ridge—

PowerFlow 6
Cylinder bores should be checked for taper or Typical of Hy-F¡re V-8
out-of-round as shown in Figure 7. Check each
bore at the top, bottom, crosswise, and lengthwise
to determine what variation exists. If the cylinder BORING CYLINDER BORES
bores are more than .005 inch out of round, or Cylinder bores that are badly scuffed, scored,
have a taper of more than .020 inch, the bores over .005 inch out of round or exceed .020 inch
should be rebored and new pistons fitted. taper, should be rebored. Working limits should
be held to .001 inch. The boring operation should
HONING CYLINDER BORES be closely coordinated with fitting of pistons so
that specifications can be maintained. Clean bores
To remove light scratches, scoring or scuffing, thoroughly before fitting pistons.
cylinder bores can be satisfactorily honed. Honing
limits should not exceed .005 inch removal of CLEANING CYLINDER WALLS
metal. If only one or two cylinder bores have light
scratches or scores, hone the cylinders up to .005 After honing, clean the cylinder walls with a
oversize and use new .005 inch oversize pistons. brush, using soap and water. Wipe the walls dry
It is important that cylinder bores are absolutely with a clean rag.
clean before fitting pistons. Be sure to lubricate the piston and rings with a
coating of oil before installing them in the cylinder
block when assembling the engine.
CORE HOLE PLUGS
£54x312
51x967
Figure 7 — Checking Cylinder Bore for Out-of- Figure 9 — Installing Cylinder Block Core Hole
round or Taper—Hy-F¡re V-8 plug__Hy-F¡re V¯8
Typical of PowerFlow 6 Typical of PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
ENGINE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)

P-27 P-29
MODEL P-26, P-28
240 cu. in. 260 cu. in. 270 cu. in 277 cu. in.
Valve Seat Width (Intake) .060 in. to .085 in.
5/64 in.
(Exhaust) .040 in. to .060 in.
Valve Guides Replaceable Reamed in Cylinder Heads
Type Self-locking Hydraulic Self-lkg.
adjusting screw adjusting
I screw
S Body Diameter 5/8 in. .9040 in. to .9045 in. (Std.)

Radial Clearance .0002 to .001 in. .0005 in. to .0015 in.
Marks Located On Crankshaft Pulley
Intake Opens 12° before T.D.C. 14° before T.D.C. 14° B.T.D.C.
Exhaust Closes 6° after T.D.C. 9° after T.D.C. 12° A.T.D.C.
Exhaust Opens 50° before B.D.C. 55° before B.D.C. 52° B.B.D.C.
Intake Closes 44° after B.D.C. 47° after B.D.C. 47° A.B.D.C.
Valve Clearance for .014 (Cold)
Checking Valve Timing
Running Clearance
(Intake) .010 in. (Hot) .010 in. (Hot)
(Exhaust) .010 in. (Hot) .018 in. (Hot)
Type U-Slot—Cam Ground Slotted—Cam Ground with Steel Belt
Material Aluminum Alloy
Clearance With .002 in. x 1/2 in. With .0015 in. x 1/2 in. feeler
feeler stock—5-10 Stock—5-10 pounds pull
I Weight (Std. through

pounds pull
462-466 Grams
.060 in. oversize)
Piston Length 3-11/16 in. 3-17/64 in. 3.3 in.
Type Floating
Length 2.738 to 2.753 in. 2.880 in. to 2.890 in. 2.990 to
3.000
Diameter .8591 in. to .8593 (Std.) .9841 to

I .9843
Fit in Piston .0000 in. to .0005 in.
Compression Rings
Oil Rings 1
Width—Compression 3/32 in. .0775 in. to .0780 in.
—Oil .1860 in. to .1865 in.
Piston Ring Cap .010 in. to .020 in.
Side—No. 1 Comp. .0025 in. to .004 in. .0015 in. to .003 in.
Clear—No. 2 Comp. .002 in. to .0035 in. .001 in. to .0025 in.
ance—Oil Ring .001 in. to .0025 in. .001 in. to .003 in.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 187
4. CORE HOLE PLUGS

.026 TO .034 IN. LESS
To remove a core hole plug, use a center punch THAN DIAMETER AT (D)
or similar tool to drive in the center of the plug.

Before installing the new plug, make sure seat is
clean, smooth and even. Apply a suitable sealer
and install plugs with curved side out. See Figure 9.
5. PISTONS
The pistons used in Plymouth engines are cam
ground so that the diameter at the pin boss is less
than its diameter across the thrust face. This allows THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF
THE SKIRT OF THE PISTON
THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD
for expansion under normal operating conditions. BE .014 TO .016 I N . LESS
SHOULD TAPER SO THAT
THE DIAMETER AT (C) IS
Under operating temperatures, expansion forces AT DIAMETER (A) T H A N
A C R O S S THE T H R U S T
FROM .0005 TO .001 IN. LESS
THAN AT (D).
the pin bosses away from each other, thus, causing FACES AT DIAMETER (B).
the piston to assume a more nearly round shape.

Figure 10 — Piston—Hy-Fire V-8
It is important that pistons be checked for taper
and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the
cylinder bore. See Figures 10 and 11.
r ~ 0.028 TO 0.033 IN. LESS
THAN DIAMETER AT (D)
FINISHED PISTONS
All pistons are machined to the same weight in
grams, regardless of oversize to maintain piston
balance. For cylinder bores which have been
honed or rebored, pistons are available in standard
and the following oversizes: .005, .020, .030, .040,
and .060 inch.
SEMI-FINISHED PISTONS
THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF THE SKIRT OF THE PISTON
Semi - finished pistons are available for the THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD SHOULD TAPER SO THAT
PowerFlow 6 engines only. If the measurement of BE 0.010 TO 0.012 IN. LESS THE DIAMETER AT (C) IS
AT DIAMETER (A) T H A N FROM 0.0005 TO 0.0015
a reconditioned bore is such that standard finished A C R O S S THE T H R U S T LESS THAN AT (D5.
piston is not available for the particular size, a FACES AT DSAMETER (8), 32X91
semi-finished piston can be used. They are avail- Figure 11 — Piston—PowerFlow 6
able in two sizes:—(1) for cylinder bores from
standard to .023 inch oversize, and (2) for cylinder
bores from .025 inch to .060 inch oversize. Only the
skirt and lands of a semi-finished piston require
finishing. Do not use a .025 inch to .060 inch over-
size piston to make a piston below .025 inch over-
size because the finished ring grooves will be too
shallow, causing ring failure. A semi-finished pis-
ton should be finished elliptical in shape and
tapered to correct measurements with cam grind-
ing equipment. These pistons must not be finished
to a circular shape.
IMPORTANT
When a piston is finished to proper size, its
weight should be brought to the average 51x59
weight of the old pistons. If all new pistons
are installed, the difference in weight should Figure 12 — Fitting Pistons in Cylinder Bore—
not exceed plus or minus 2 grams. Hy¯F¡re V-8
Typical of PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
FITTING PISTONS
Piston fitting should be done at normal room
temperature, 70° F, with the use of a spring scale
and a strip of ½ inch wide feeler stock of a speci¯
fied thickness. Use .002 inch thick feeler stock for
PowerFlow 6 engines and .0015 inch for Hy-Fire
V-8 engines. The feeler stock should be long
enough to extend into the bore to the full length of
piston travel.
Before fitting the piston, make sure cylinder bore
and piston are absolutely clean. Coat the cylinder
bore lightly with SAE 10W engine oil. Insert the
piston in the bore upside down, with the feeler
stock between the thrust face of the piston and
55P10Ì7
cylinder wall. Hold the piston and draw the feeler
Figure 13 — Fitting Piston Pin in Connecting Rod stock out straight with the spring scale as shown
in Figure 12. The amount of pull to withdraw the
feeler stock should be from 5 to 10 pounds.
IMPORTANT
Do not fit the piston in the cylinder bore with

the piston pin installed. The pin may distort
the piston and a false fit may be indicated.
6. PISTON PINS
FITTING PISTON PINS
Test the piston pin fit in the connecting rod as
54x317 illustrated in Figure 13. This should be a tight
thumb press fit at normal room temperature, 70° F.
Figure 14 — Fitting Piston Pin in Piston—
Hy-F¡re V-8 Test the piston pin fit in the piston as shown in
Typical of PowørFlow 6 Figure 14. This should be a tight double thumb
press fit at normal room temperature, 70° F.
If the pin cannot be installed as explained, use
an expansion reamer to enlarge the hole. Use
extreme care and take very light cuts, alternately
reaming and fitting. This will prevent cutting too
much of the metal at one time and will insure a
better fit.
ASSEMBLING PISTONS TO CONNECTING ROD

HY-FIRE V-8—Assemble pistons to the connect-
ing rods on the right hand cylinder bank (Nos. 2,
4, 6 and 8) with the indent on the top of the piston
on the side opposite to the large chamfer at the
insert end of the connecting rod.
Assemble pistons and rods on the left bank (Nos.
Figure 15 — Measuring Piston Ring Gap— 1, 3, 5 and 7) with the indent on the same side as
PowerFlow 6 the large chamfer at the insert end of the connect-
Typical of Hy-Fire V-8 ing rod.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 189
POWERFLOW G—-Assemble piston to the rod

with the slot in the piston on the side opposite to POWERFLOW 6 HY-FIRE V8
the marking on the machined bolt boss of the UPPER
connecting rod. COMPRESSION
JS¯ RING
LOWER
7. PISTON RINGS I Q - * ^ COMPRESSION
PISTON RING GAP

Measure the piston ring gap with the ring about
two inches from the bottom of the cylinder bore to
which it is fitted. Use an inverted piston to push
the piston ring down squarely in the cylinder bore.
The piston ring gap in the cylinder bore for all
rings should be from .010 inch to .020 inch as
measured with a feeler gauge. See Figure 15. Figure 1 7 — Piston Rings Assembled on Piston
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
Make sure piston ring grooves are clean. Meas-

ure the clearance between the piston ring and
land as shown in Figure 16. See Data and Speci-
fications for allowable clearances.
Install piston rings on piston with a suitable REMOVING TOOL
\
piston ring applier. It is important that piston rings
be installed correctly as shown in Figure 17.
8. CRANKSHAFT
When removing the crankshaft pulley and
sprocket from 230, 241, 260 and 270 cu. in. engines,
51 x 740
use puller C-3033 as shown in Figures 18 and 19.
When working on 277 cu. in. engines, it is not nec- Figure 18—Removing Pulley from Crankshaft-
essary to use a puller. Tap the pulley or sprocket Hy-F¡re V-8
with a soft hammer when removing. Typical of PowerF/ow 6
PISTON RING
REMOVING TOOL
FEELER GAUGE
RING GROOVE
54x314
51 x 741
Figure 16 — Checking Piston Ring Groove Clear- Figure 19 — Removing Crankshaft Timing Gear—
ance— Hy¯F¡re V¯8 Hy¯F¡re V-8
Typical of PowerF/ow 6 Typical of PowerF/ow 6
MyMopar.com
Name P¯26, P-28 P-27 P-29

Camshaft Sprocket Hub Nut 125
ft. lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Cap Screw 35
ft. lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Hub Thrust Plate Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 15 ft. lbs.
Chain Case Cover Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 30
ft. lbs.
Connecting Rod Cap Nut 45 ft. lbs. 45 ft. lbs.
Crankshaft Pulley Hub Bolt 135 ft. lbs. 135 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolt 70 ft. lbs. 85 ft. lbs.
Engine Front Support Insulator Bolt 20 ft. lbs. 20 ft. lbs.
Engine Front Support "U" Bolt Nuts 45 ft. lbs. 45 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Manifold Stud Nut 20 ft. lbs. 25 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Pipe Flange Bolt Nut 40 ft. lbs. 40 ft. lbs.
Fan Blade Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 15 ft. lbs.
Fuel Pump Mounting Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 30 ft. lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolt 30 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Cap Bolt 85 ft. lbs. 85 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Attaching Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 15 ft. lbs.

Oil Pan Drain Plug 35 ft. lbs. 35 ft. lbs.
Oil Pump Cover Bolt 15 ft. lbs. 10 ft. lbs.

Oil Pump Mounting Bolt 25 ft. lbs. 35 ft. lbs.
Rocker Shaft Bracket Mounting Bolt 30 ft. lbs.
Spark Plugs 30 ft. lbs. 30 ft. lbs.
Water Outlet Elbow Bolt 30 ft. lbs. 30 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Body Bolt 30 ft. lbs. 30 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Housing Bolt 30 ft. lbs.

Flywheel Nuts 60 ft. lbs. 60 ft. lbs.
Carburetor to Intake Manifold Stud Nut 20 ft. lbs.

Intake Manifold Stud Nut 20 ft. lbs.
CAUTION
The connecting rod nuts, bearing cap bolts, cylinder head bolts and spark plugs must be carefully
tightened to specifications shown with a torque wrench.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 191
A—CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING

a fillet radius will permit the bearing to ride the
FILLETS, TRUE RADIUS ¿ IN. fillet, resulting in bearing failure.
B—CONNECTING ROD BEARING
FILLETS, TRUE RADIUS g IN. After regrinding, use hand grinder to remove
rough edges from all crankshaft oil holes. Clean
REAR MAIN BEARING
SHOULDER THRUST FACE out all oil passages. Do not grind thrust face of
, CONNECTING ROD BEARING JOURNALS rear bearing journal. The width of this journal
controls end play.
END PLAY
To determine crankshaft end play, attach a suit-
able dial indicator to the engine pan rail with the
dial indicator plunger bearing on the crankshaft
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNALS — flange. Pry the crankshaft fore and aft and record
readings. Allowable limits are .003 to .007 inches
45X7 for PowerFlow 6 engines and .002 to .007 inches
Figure 20 — Crankshaft and Connecting Rod for Hy-Fire V-8. Thrust is taken up by the number
Bearing Fillets—PowerFlow 6 four rear main bearing on PowerFlow 6 engines
and the number three main bearing on HyFire V-8
engines.
MAIN BEARING CAPS
HY-FIRE V-8—Main bearing caps Nos. 1# 2, 3 9. CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS

and 4 are marked at the bottom. Make sure they
are installed correctly and in their proper position. REPLACEMENT BEARINGS
When .001 inch thicker wall (undersize) crank-
POWERFLOW 6—Before removing the No. 2
shaft main bearings are used for production en-
and No. 3 main bearing caps punch mark the
gines an identification mark is stamped on the
bearing caps and the block so that the caps can be
machined surface of the crankshaft center counter-
reinstalled in their original position and location.
weight for PowerFlow 6 engines and the No. 3
Failure to reinstall the caps in their original posi-
counter weight on Hy-Fire V-8 engines. When the
tion may result in a broken cap.
thicker crankshaft main bearings are used, the
The crankshaft journals should be examined for crankshaft will be marked Ml, M2, etc.; depending
scoring, cracks, excessive wear or overheating. upon which journal has the .001 undersize bearing.
Scored or badly worn journals should be reground A .001 thicker wall bearing has an inside diame-
and undersize bearings installed. Journals of an ter .001 inch less than a standard bearing. Each
overheated crankshaft will have a bluish tinge, half of the bearing is only .0005 thicker. Replace-
in which case, a new crankshaft should be in- ment crankshaft main bearings are available in
stalled. Main bearing and connecting rod journals the following undersizes:
should be checked for out of round and taper. Al-
lowable limit is .001 inch before regrinding. Hy-Fire V-8—.001, .002, .003, and .012 inch.
PowerFlow 6—.001, .002, .003, .010, .012, .020,
HY-FIRE V-8—When regrinding crankshaft jour- .030 and .040 inch.
nals, use extra caution to prevent grinding the
undercut fillets of the journals. These fillets are MAIN BEARING REMOVAL
formed by a shot peening method to provide maxi- Main bearing inserts can be removed with the
mum strength at the fillet area. Do not grind the engine installed if extreme caution is exercised
thrust faces of the No. 3 main bearing. when removing the upper insert. A special tool is
available for this operation. Never remove bear-
Grinding limits of journals should not exceed
ings with a screw driver or similar tool. This usu-
.012 inch reduction of the original journal diame-
ally results in damage to the bearing journal or
ter. The smallest undersize replacement bearing is
bearing bore. Use tool C-3059 when removing
.012 inch undersize.
upper inserts in Hy-Fire V-8 engines and use tool
POWERFLOW 6—When regrinding be sure to C-584 when working on PowerFlow 6 engines. Re-
maintain crankshaft bearing fillets. See Figure 20. place one bearing at a time. Insert the pin of the
To avoid damaging polished surface, do not touch tool in the crankshaft oil hole as shown in Figure
shoulder with grinding wheel. The fillet radius 21. Then remove the insert by slowly rotating the
must be ¾ inch (plus 0, minus ¾ 2 inch). Too great crankshaft.
MyMopar.com
BEARING
55P1333
Figure 21 — Removing and Installing Main Bear- Figure 22 — Results of Dirt on Back of
ing Upper Insert with Special Tool Bearing Insert
nal. Excessive crankshaft journal taper, or an out-

INSPECTION OF BEARING HALVES
of-round condition will prevent proper fitting of
The appearance of the babbitt lining of a bear- the bearing insert, causing premature bearing
ing insert cannot be used as an indication of its failure. If crankshaft does not meet specifications,
running clearance. Before checking bearing clear- regrind the crankshaft journals.
ance, however, a visual inspection can be made to
When checking the clearance of a bearing, do
determine whether the bearing is suitable for
not loosen the other bearing caps. This would dis-
further use.
turb crankshaft alignment, cause binding and
Discoloration or dull appearance does not affect result in false indication of clearance. Remove
the good quality or usefulness of the bearing in- spark plugs to relieve compression.
sert. Look for excessive grooving, scoring or too
much foreign material embedded in the babbitt. SHIM METHOD—Use shim stock of the correct
Shiny spots on the babbitt indicating wiping ac- size and thickness when checking clearance. Place
tion are a sign of too little clearance brought about a piece of .001 inch shim stock, ½ inch wide and
by crankshaft journal taper or out-of-round, dam- ¾ inch long, crosswise on babbitt surface of bear-
age to back of insert or dirt behind the insert. See ing as shown in Figure 23. Do not put shim stock
Figure 22. between bearing and cap.
If the bearing clearance is correct, all other fac-

tors, such as dull or varnished appearance, dark IMPORTANT
gray color, lack of brightness and similar minor When installing new bearings, make certain
irregularities can be disregarded. Such a bearing that hands, tools and equipment are perfectly
can give satisfactory service for many additional clean. Dirt on shim stock, crankshaft journal,
thousands of miles, provided the clearance is sat- bearing insert or nicks on cap may result in a
isfactory. false indication of bearing clearance.
MEASURING BEARING CLEARANCE

Install bearings and caps with shim stock in
Bearing life and quiet engine operation depend
position crosswise between the babbitt surface of
upon the establishment of the proper clearance
between the babbitt lining of the bearing insert the insert and the crankshaft journal. The small
and crankshaft journal. formed ear on bearing insert must fit properly in
machined notch to hold bearing in position.
Excessive clearance will result in bearing noise, Tighten cap bolts alternately to 80 to 85 foot
while insufficient clearance results in lack of lubri- pounds. Check bearing clearance only when these
cation and may cause a wiping action resulting in bearing cap bolts have been tightened to the speci-
damage to the bearing insert or crankshaft jour- fied torque.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 193
Turn crankshaft by grasping the outer diameter

of the flywheel to determine the amount of drag IMPORTANT
caused by shim. A fairly heavy drag indicates a
If bearings are measured with the engine in
clearance of from .005 to .001 inch. If no drag is
the chassis, the crankshaft must be supported
felt, remove the .001 inch shim and insert a .0015
in order to take up clearance between the
inch shim and repeat test. A fairly heavy drag
upper bearing insert and crankshaft journal.
now indicates a bearing clearance of from .0005
Use extreme caution when this is done to avoid
to .0015 inch, representing the maximum desired
unnecessary strain on the crankshaft or bear-
clearance. Bearing clearance is too great if no
ings or false reading may be obtained. Do not
drag is evident. Thicker wall bearing inserts
rotate crankshaft while plastigage is installed.
should be used to reduce clearance until a fairly
heavy drag is evident with a .001 inch shim.
Remove the bearing cap and measure the com-
pressed material across the widest flattened width
CAUTION with the graduated scale. Allowable bearing clear-
ance is from .005 to .0015 inches. If the compressed
To avoid embedding shim in bearing and
plastigage tapers at any point, and differs more
distorting babbitt, start shim test with shim no
than .001 inches as measured with the graduated
thicker than .001 inch. scale, the journal should be checked with mi-
crometers.
After new bearing is installed, repeat the shim INSTALLATION OF BEARING INSERTS
test to make certain clearance is correct. If a heavy
When installing new upper main bearing inserts,
drag is evident, do not rotate crankshaft more than
remove the sharp edges from the back side of
¼ turn in either direction, as this may damage bearings by chamfering slightly. This will permit
the bearing surface. ease of rotation of the bearing in the shells. Start
If drag is slight, rotate crankshaft a full turn by the bearing insert in place with tool inserted in
hand to determine if there is a difference in the the oil hole of the crankshaft. Rotate crankshaft
amount of drag at any point. If the amount of drag counter-clockwise, sliding insert into place. See
appears to differ at any point, the journal may be Figure 21. Use Tool C-584 on PowerFlow 6 engines
out-of-round and should be inspected. and Tool C-3059 on Hy-Fire V-8 engines.
Check each bearing for clearance and make When installing the lower half of the main bear-
sure the crankshaft is free to rotate. When bearing, draw the cap down evenly. ALWAYS use a
ings are installed and the caps are tightened to the torque wrench and tighten nuts or cap screws to
specified torque, turn crankshaft by hand and 80 to 85 foot-pounds. Tightening to this specified
make certain it is free to rotate. torque is extremely important.
PLASTIGAGE METHOD — Fitting bearings by BEARING CAP
the Plastigage method consists of compressing a
SHIM STOCK
plastic like material between the crankshaft jour- BEARING
nal and bearing insert. The flattened material is
then measured by a graduated scale on the pack-
ing envelope, thus indicating bearing clearance.
Accuracy depends on cleanliness of the journal
and bearing cap and ability of the individual to
accurately read the graduated scale. Check one
bearing at a time leaving other caps tightened to
their specified torques.
Remove the bearing cap and wipe the crank-
shaft journal and bearing cap to remove oil. Place
the plastigage strip parallel with the crankshaft 51x54
on the bearing insert or crankshaft journal.
Figure 23 — Checking Main Bearing Clearance
Install the bearing cap and tighten the cap bolts With Shim Stock—Hy-F¡re V-8
alternately to the specified torque. Typical of PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
3. BEARING CAPS—Never file, dress down or

NOTE
shim a main bearing cap except when installing a
One-half of a .00 J inch thicker wall bearing replacement cap. On replacement caps, stud holes
can be used with one-half of a standard bear- are 1/64 inch larger than production caps and
ing. One-half of a .002 inch thicker wall bear- bearing cap length is 1/16 inch shorter. This per-
ing can be used with one-half of a .001 inch mits fitting of the replacement bearing cap by
bearing. Never use one-half of a .002 inch shimming or filing.
thicker wall bearing with one-half of a stand-
ard bearing. Never use one-half of an old bear- REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL
ing with one-half of a new bearing. AND CAP SEALS
HY-FIRE V-8—The rear main bearing oil seal is
GENERAL INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
a rope type seal of braided asbestos. Whenever it
is necessary to replace the upper half of the seal,
Use proper tools and make sure tools, equipment the crankshaft must be removed.
and hands are clean. Dust or dirt must be pre- To replace the lower seal and cap seals, remove
vented from reaching engine parts. the rear main bearing cap. Remove all seals, clean
J. BEARING INSERTS—Never use an old bear- the cap and dry with compressed air. Install the
ing half with a new bearing half. Replace inserts rope seal with the ends protruding out. Tap the
in pairs. When installing, do not allow oil to get seal in position with tool C-3131 (1955) and C-3511
between back of the bearing and the bearing cap (1956) as shown in Figure 24, until the tool is seated
or the insert may not transfer heat to the cylinder in the bore. Hold tool down and cut off protruding
block. ends flush with cap. Install bearing insert and both
cap seals. See Figure 25. The long cap seal should
2. INTERCHÄNGEÄBILITY OF BEARING IN- be installed so that when cap is in position, the
SERTS—HY-FIRE V-8—The bearing inserts of num- seal is on the oil filter side of engine.
ber 1, 2 and 4 bearings are interchangeable with POWERFLOW 6—The rear main bearing oil seal
each other. The caps are not interchangeable and
is a neoprene lip type seal with a steel insert. See
care should be used in installing them in their
Figure 26. When replacing the rear oil seal, replace
correct position. Number 3 bearing, which controls
both the upper and lower halves. With the cap
the crankshaft end thrust, is not interchangeable
removed the upper seal can easily be removed
with others. However, the upper and lower insert
with a pair of long nose pliers. Clean the groove
of number 3 bearing are interchangeable with
in the block of any foreign matter. Insert one end
each other.
of the seal in the block and push it into place with
POWERFLOW 6 — Upper inserts of number 1 a rolling motion. Make sure ends are flush with
and number 4 main bearing inserts are not inter- block. See Figure 27.
changeable. Make sure that the bearing insert After installing the oil seal in the cap, install cap
with the oil feed hole is in the upper position. seals in position, making sure that the tabs of the
cap seals fit in the cap seal channel.
CAP SEAL-SHORT
DOWEL
CAP SEAL-LONG
\¡r*
OIL DRAIN
HOLE
51x970 BEARING
SHELL
Figure 24—Installing Rear Main Bearing Oil Figure 25 — Rear M a i n Bearing Oil Seal a n d Cap
Seal—Hy¯F¡re V-8 Seals—Hy-F¡re V - 8
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 195
CAUTION
PowerFlow 6 — Coat the contacting lip of
the rear main bearing oil seal with a light ap-
plication of grease to assure initial lubrication.
Install the upper and lower seals so that the
contacting lip points toward the front of the
engine.
10. CONNECTING RODS AND

BEARINGS
CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT
CHECKING FOR BEND—Install the connecting
rod and piston assembly in Fixture C-481 as shown Figure 27 — Installing Upper Seal—PowerFlow 6
in Figure 28. The top of the piston should be flush
with the tool. The clearance between the piston
and the tool shown in (A) of Figure 28 should be
zero (0), however, a .002 inch variation is allowa-
ble. If more than .002 inch feeler stock can be in-
serted, the rod should be disassembled and
checked and straightened as shown in Figure 29. TWISTING
FIXTURE
CHECKING FOR TWIST — Use tool C-481 for SET SCREW
checking for twist as shown in (B) of Figure 28.
ATTEMP BENDING
Tilt the piston and if more than .002 inch feeler TO INSERT FIXTURE!
stock can be inserted between piston and tool, dis- FEELER SET
SCREW
assemble rod and correct as shown in Figure 29. STOCK AT
THESE
POINTS
REPLACEMENT BEARINGS
W h e n .001 inch thicker wall (undersize) bearings B 54x321
are used on production engines, a n identification

mark will be stamped on the machined surface of Figure 28 — Checking Connecting Rod and Piston
the center counterweight for PowerFlow 6 e n g i n e s for Alignment
and the number 3 counterweight on Hy-Fire V-8
engines. W h e n the thicker bearings are used the
BEARING-LOWER BEARING CAP
ft* 47x139
54x621
Figure 26 — Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal and Cap Figure 29 —Correcting Connecting Rod For Bend
Seals—PowerFlow 6 Or Twist
MyMopar.com
markings will be Rl# R2, etc., depending what rod

uses the .001 inch thicker insert. Replacement bear-
ings are available in the following undersizes:
Hy-Fire V-8—.001, .002, .003, .010, .012 inches.
PowerFlow 6—.001, .002, .003, .010, .012, .020,
.030, .040 inches.
CONNECTING ROD
BEARING CLEARANCE
Install bearings in pairs. Never use a new bear-

ing half with an old bearing half. When fitting
x745
bearings do not file the connecting rod or cap to
fit bearings but use the proper size insert. When
Figure 30—Checking Connecting Rod Bearing an engine is completely overhauled the shim
Clearance—Hy¯Fire V-8 method can be used to advantage. The Plastigage
Typical of PowerF/ow 6
method has advantages when the bearings alone
GUIDE TOOLS
are to be checked or replaced.
SHIM METHOD—The fitting of bearings is ac-
A complished without the piston and rod in the cylin-
der bore. Place a piece of .001 inch feeler stock ½
inch wide and ¾ inch long between the journal
and bearing shell. Make sure shim edges are
smooth. Remove any burrs or rough edges to pre-
vent damage to the bearing. Apply light coat of
oil to shim.
Install the cap and tighten nuts alternately to
the specified torque. Move the connecting rod from
side to side as shown in Figure 30. A slight drag
should be felt as the rod is moved. This will indi-
cate the clearance is .001 inch or less and is con-
sidered satisfactory. If no drag is felt or the
Figure 31 —Guiding Connecting Rod on connecting rod is difficult to move, the bearing
Crankshaft Journal Hy-F¡re V-8 insert is either too large or too small and should
be replaced with the correct size. Make sure that
the tang on the insert fits into the groove in the
PISTON RING COMPRESSING TOOL
rod and cap.
PLASTIGAGE METHOD—The measurement of
connecting rod bearing clearance can be done
with the use of Plastigage with the engine in the
chassis. After removing the connecting rod cap,
wipe off oil from the journal and inserts. Place the
Plastigage on bearing, parallel with crankshaft.
Reinstall cap and tighten attaching nuts alternate-
ly to specified torque.
Remove cap and measure the width of the com-
pressed material with the graduated scale to deter-
mine bearing clearance. Allowable clearance is
51 x 746 from .0005 to .0015 inches. If taper of compressed
Figure 32 — Installing Connecting Rod, Piston
material is evident, measure with the graduated
and Rings—Hy-F¡re V-8
scale. If difference exceeds .001 inch, journal
should be checked with micrometers.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 197
INSTALLING CONNECTING ROD, PISTON FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC AND DOWEL

AND RINGS ASSEMBLY
HY-FIRE V-8—Before installing the pistons, rings

CAMSHAFT
and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the SPROCKET
compression ring gaps are opposite one another HUB NUT
and not in line with the oil ring gap. The oil ring
expander gap should be toward the outside of the CAMSHAFT
GEAR
"V" of the engine. The oil ring gap should be
turned toward the inside of the "V" of the engine.
Immerse the piston head and rings in clean en- TIMING CHAIN
gine oil, then slide ring compressor Tool C-385 over

piston and tighten with the special wrench (part
56P225 f
of Tool C-385). Be sure the position of the rings
does not change during this operation. Screw the Figure 33 — Camshaft Fuel Pump Eccentric
connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool C-3221) Removed—Hy-Fire V-8—1955
on one rod bolt, then insert rod and piston into
cylinder bore. Affix the puller part of Tool C-3221
on the other bolt, then guide the rod over the crank-
shaft journal, as shown in Figure 31.
Tap the piston down into the cylinder bore, using
the handle of a hammer, as shown in Figure 32,
and at the same time, guide the connecting rod
into position on the crankshaft journal. The indent
in the top of the piston must be pointing toward
the front of engine. As a double check the connect-
ing rod bores are chamfered more on one side than
FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC
the other. The larger chamfer must be installed
toward the crankshaft journal fillet.
RETAINER
It should be noted that each bearing cap has a
small "v" groove across the parting face. When
installing the lower bearing insert, make certain Figure 34 — Camshaft Fuel Pump Eccentric
that the "v" groove in the insert is in line with Removed—Hy-F¡re V-8—1956
the "v" groove in the cap. This is to allow lubrica-
tion of the cylinder wall. Install bearing caps and
nuts and tighten to 45 foot-pounds.
POWERFLOW 6—Position each ring so that no
two ring gaps are in line. Immerse the piston head
in light engine oil and install ring compressor.
Position the piston in place and tap it down into
the bore. The slot in the piston should be away
from the valve side of the engine. The number
marking on the connecting rod should be on the
valve side of the engine. Note that the rods have
two oil metering holes. Insert the bearing into the
connecting rod so that oil metering hole in the
bearing is on the valve side of the engine. Install 54x355
the connecting rod cap and tighten to 45 foot- Figure 35—Removing Tappet From Bore—
pounds torque. Hy-F¡re V-8
MyMopar.com
11. CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS

REMOVAL AND INSPECTION
HY-FIRE V-8—Drain coolant and remove radiator
and crankshaft pulley. Support weight of 1955 en-
gines with chain hoist attached to intake manifold.
Remove motor support "U" bolts.
It is not necessary to support 1956 engines in this

manner, since shear type engine mounts are used.
Remove fan, water pump, and water pump hous-

ing assembly. Loosen oil pan bolts sufficiently in
order that oil pan clears chain case cover. Remove
56P227
fuel pump, chain case cover, camshaft gear hub
Figure 36 — Removing Tappet Body With nut, and fuel pump eccentric. Then remove cam-
Puller—Hy-F¡re V-8 shaft gear and timing chain. See Figure 33 or 34.
Support 1955 engines at front of oil pan. Then re-
move intake manifold, distributor, distributor drive
gear, tappet chamber cover, rocker cover, rocker
shaft assemblies and push rods.
Use tool C-3158 to pull out hydraulic tappets as

shown in Figure 35. If varnish build up is exces-
sive, use puller part of tool C-3158 and work tappet
out of bore as shown in Figure 36. Remove the
four camshaft thrust bolts. Camshaft can now be
removed. Insert feeler gauge between hub and
thrust plate. End play should be .002 to .006 inches.
Carefully inspect camshaft lobes and distributor
and oil pump drive gears for excessive wear or
damage.
POWERFLOW 6—Drain coolant and remove

radiator core. Remove cylinder head, wheel and
Figure 37 — Holding Up Valves and Tappets For
splash shield. Support front end of engine and re-
Camshaft Removal—PowerFlow 6
move front engine support, timing chain case
cover, camshaft sprocket and timing chain. If the
CAMSHAFT valves are not being removed, hold them up by in-
SPROCKET serting two wooden wedges at each valve head at
HUB
opposite points. See Figure 37. Lift valve tappets
up and hold them in place with spring type clothes
pins. Remove thrust plate bolts. Camshaft can now
be removed. Measure clearance between thrust
CAMSHAFT
plate and front bearing journal as shown in Figure
38. The end play should be .002 to .006 inches. Care-
fully inspect camshaft lobes and distributor and
oil pump drive gears for excessive wear or
damage.
CAMSHAFT
SPROCKET
THRUST PLATE
MEASURING CAMSHAFT BEARING CLEARANCE
Attach a dial indicator to the block with the

Figure 38 — Measuring Camshaft End Play— plunger of the indicator resting on the back of
PowerFlow 6 cam nearest a bearing. Pry the shaft "to" and
Typical of 1955 V-8 "from" the indicator so that the movement will be
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 199
shown on the indicator. Check all bearings in the

same manner. If the clearance exceeds .005 inch,
install a new camshaft for test purpose only. Then
recheck the clearance. See Figure 40. If the clear-
ance with the new camshaft exceeds .0035 inch, a
new camshaft bearing shell should be installed.
All the camshaft bearing shells are replaceable
but seldom, if ever, have to be replaced. If bearing
clearance is excessive, new bearing shells may be
pressed in place after camshaft and the bearing
shells have been removed.
56P229
IMPORTANT Figure 39 — Measuring Camshaft End Play

Use care so as not to burr or damage the Hy-F¡re V¯8 (1956)
camshaft bearing bores in the cylinder block,
as such damage will interfere with the installa-
tion of new camshaft bearings. Use care when
installing the camshaft so as not to damage
the bearing surface.
INDICATOR
REPLACING CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

HY-FIRE V-8—When it is necessary to replace
camshaft bearings the engine should be removed
from the chassis. The rear camshaft welch plug
can be removed at the same time. Bearings are
removed using special bearing removal and in-
stalling tool C-3132. Coat a new welch plug with 35x5
suitable sealer and install in cylinder block at rear
cam bearing with tool C-897. Slide new bearing on Figure 40 — Measuring Camshaft Bearing
adaptor and insert in position as shown in Figure Clearance—PowerFlow 6
Typical of Hy-Fire V-8
43. Install horseshoe lock and drive in place. Be
sure the oil holes in the cam bearing shell and
ADAPTERS (PART OF
cylinder block are in exact alignment. To check REMOVING TOOL)
after each bearing shell has been installed, insert
pencil flashlight in shell. The complete circumfer- CAMSHAFT BEARING
REMOVER A N D
ence of the camshaft bearing oil hole should be INSTALLER
visible by looking through the main bearing drilled
oil passage. If camshaft bearing oil hole is not in
exact alignment, remove bearing shell and re-
install.
\
POWERFLOW 6—Camshaft bearings can be re- SLIDE HAMMER (PART
OF REMOVING TOOL)
moved with the engine in the chassis. Use special
HORSESHOE COLLAR (PART
removing and installing tool C-536. See Figure 41. OF REMOVING TOOL)
When installing the bearings, it is important that 35x6
the oil hole in the bearing is in line with the lubri- Figure 41 — Removing Camshaft Bearing*
cating oil hole in the block. PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
EXHAUST VALVE CONNECTING ROD BUSH!NG

CYLINDER HEAD
FXHAUS1 VALVF SEAT \ |NTAKF VALVE ' • • « / PISTON
VAI.VE STEM GUIDE \ `
WATER
/^PÜMP
'' ASSEMBLY
PISTON PIN
CONNECTING
- - " ROD
VALVE
TAPPET
CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS
\ CRANKSHAFT BEARING NO, 1

CAMSHAFT BEARING NO, 2
OIL STRAINER 49x804 B
Figure 42 — Side Sectional View of PowerFlow 6 Engine
12. CHAIN CASE COVER OIL SEAL

^CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING OH HOLE 1
HY-FIRE V-8 — Drain coolant and remove ra-

diator.
1955—Support engine with a suitable chain hoist

fastened to intake manifold. Then remove front
engine support "U" bolts. Remove crankshaft
pulley and water pump housing. Loosen oil pan
bolts sufficiently until pan clears chain case cover.
Remove cover and discard gasket. Place a new
gasket in position and install a new seal with the
projecting flange of the seal facing the inside of
Figure 43 — Installing Camshaft Bearings— the cover. Drive seal in place with a special driver
Hy-Fire V¯8 C-3051.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 201
1956—Remove crankshaft pulley and water \

pump housing. Loosen oil pan bolts sufficiently
until pan clears chain case cover. Install tool
C-3506 and remove seal. Discard seal and retainer.
Position new seal and retainer assembly in hous-
ing and press into place using tool C-3506. Seal
must be tight against seat surface.
Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and
cylinder block are clean and free of burrs. Install
a new gasket and position cover over locating
dowels. Coat screws with suitable sealer as shown
in Figure 44. Tighten to torque of 15 foot-pounds
(1955) and 35 foot-pounds (1956).
C H A I N CASE HOUSING DOWELS
POWERFLOW 6 — Drain coolant and remove
radiator. Support engine at front and disconnect
Figure 4 5 — View Showing Timing Mark!
front engine support. Remove pulley and hub. Hy-F¡re V-8 Engine
Remove chain case cover and discard gasket.
Clean mating surface of chain case cover and sup-
port plate. Drive old seal out with suitable drift.
When installing seal, make sure seal is driven
into place evenly to insure a tight fit. Use a new
gasket and position cover in place. Install screws,
but do not tighten. Install the pulley and hub on
crankshaft far enough so that seal can be evenly
positioned on crankshaft. Tighten the two screws
on right side lightly. Then tighten remainder of
screws in like manner. Repeat tightening pro-
cedure and torque screws to 15 foot-pounds. This
procedure will insure an even seal around the hub.
13. TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
INSTALLATION
Figure 46 — Installing Timing Chain, Sprocket,
HY-FIRE V-8—Rotate the crankshaft until the and Crankshaft Gear—Hy¯F¡re V·8
zero mark on the timing gear is exactly in line with
u ,DOWEL PIN$<
2*`
MARK O N
CAMSHAFT
^SPROCKET
MARK O N
CRANKSHAFT
SPROCKET
O B O I T S TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR WATER

4"»BOLT$ TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR OIL
56P105
51x709
Figure 44 — Chain Case Cover Installed— Figure 47 — View Showing Timing Marks
Hy¯F¡re V-8 on Gears—PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
30 POUNDS TORQUE the center of the camshaft. Temporarily install the

camshaft gear and line up the dowel pin holes in
3/16 INCH the hub and the gear, while at the same time po-
sitioning the camshaft gear zero mark exactly in
line with the center of the crankshaft. See Figure
45. A straight edge should be used to check the
accuracy of this alignment.
Remove the camshaft gear and engage with
timing chain. Place timing chain over crankshaft
gear and at the same time, slide the camshaft gear
over the end of camshaft, keeping the timing mark
in position, as shown in Figure 46. Check the tim-
ing chain for stretch or wear.
51 x 743
When working on 1956 engines, block the cam-
Figure 48 — Measuring Timing Chain Stretch— shaft to prevent rearward movement. If the shaft
Hy-F¡re V-8 is allowed to move back, there is a possibility of
striking the rear camshaft plug.
POWERFLOW 6—Rotate crankshaft until zero
VALVE GUfDE mark is in line with center of camshaft. Match the
CLEANING TOOL sprocket mounting holes with camshaft hub mount-
ing holes. Rotate camshaft so that zero mark is in
line with zero mark on crankshaft timing gear.
Remove sprocket and install timing chain. See
Figure 47.
CHECKING TIMING CHAIN
HY-FIRE V-8—To check the timing chain for

stretch or wear, place a scale across the top of
camshaft gear with the edge close to the chain.
154x326 Apply a 30 foot-pound torque pressure in the direc-
Figure 49 — Cleaning Valve Guides
tion of the crankshaft rotation to take up slack.
Holding the scale with the dimensional reading
even with the edge of a chain link, apply the 30
foot-pound torque pressure in the reverse direction
and note the amount of chain rotation. See
Figure 48.
If the movement of the chain is greater than 3/16
inch, as indicated by the scale, install a new tim-
ing chain. With a 30 foot-pound torque applied to
ihe camshaft gear nut, the crankshaft should not
move during this check. However, if there is any
question, the crankshaft should be blocked to
prevent rotation.
54x327 POWERFLOW 6—Turn crankshaft clockwise so

INTAKE VALVE EXHAUST VALVE that the top span of chain is tight. If the amount of
CHECKING SLEEVE CHECKING SLEEVE
deflection in the lower span of chain is greater
Figure 50 — Installing Valve Guide Sleeves than ¾ inch, from a straight line, replace the tim-
For Checking Guide Clearance ing chain.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 203
14. VALVES, SPRINGS, SEATS, A N D

TAPPETS-HY-FIRE V-8
With cylinder head mounted in holding fixtures

C-3209ƒ compress the spring with tool C-3428 and
remove valve locks. Release tool and remove
valve spring, retainer and valves. Remove all
carbon and varnish from valves and cylinder
head. Discard any that are burned, warped or
cracked.
Measure valve stem diameter at various points.

Diameter should be .372 to .373 inch for standard INTAKE VALVE Z£^>00^* `**W? 55PÎ3Î6
intake valves and .371 to .372 inch for standard
exhaust valves. If wear exceeds .002 inch ream Figure 51 — Checking Valve Guide Clearance
guide and install an oversize valve.
Remove carbon and varnish from valve guide

with tool C-756 as shown in Figure 49. Measure
amount of valve stem to guide clearance with dial
\ MARGIN
indicator. Install sleeve C-3025 on intake valve and
\ FACE
C-3026 on exhaust valve. Then install valve in
guide as shown in Figure 50. Attach dial indicator
and move valve to and from the indicator as
shown in Figure 51. Total clearance should not
exceed .008 inch on intake valves and .014 inch on
exhaust valves. If these clearances are exceeded
replace valves and ream guides.
VALVE SPRING RETAINER
LOCK GROOVES
NOTE
If an "/" or an "£" is stamped on the cylinder
head at the rocker cover gasket boss, all intake
or exhaust valves are oversize in that bank II 54x330
depending upon what letter is stamped.
Figure 52 — Intake and Exhaust Valve
REAMING VALVE GUIDES
Standard production reaming of both intake and

exhaust valve guides is .374 to .375 inch. When r CONTACT SURFACE
reaming guides for oversize valve stems do not
attempt to ream from standard to .030 inch over-
size. If necessary to ream to that size, use the step
procedure of .005, .015, and then .030 inch. This
must be done in order to maintain a true relation-
ship of the guide to the valve seat. The following
chart indicates reamer size and valve stem size.
Reamer Reamer Valve Stem

Tool No. Oversize Size
C-3433 .005 in. .379-.380 in. 154x332

C-3430 .015 in. .389-.390 in.
C-3427 .030 in. .404-.405 in. Figure 53 — Valve Seat Reconditioning Angles
MyMopar.com
IMPORTANT
Valve guides are cast integral with the cyl-
inder head. Valves with oversize valve stems
are available for service when it is necessary
to ream guides.
REFACING VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

When refacing a valve, remove only enough
metal to insure a smooth, accurate surface of the
valve face. After refacing the valve, check the
valve head margin. See Figure 52. If margin is
less than 3/64 inch, replace the valve.
54x331
When refacing valve seats, it is important to use
Figure 54 — Grinding Valve Seats the correct size valve guide pilot. Remove only
enough metal to obtain a smooth accurate seat.
After grinding, check concentricity of seat with a
MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT dial indicator. Total run-out should not exceed
VALVE STEM LENGTH GAUGE .002 inch.
Check the valve seat with Prussian Blue to deter-
mine where the valve contacts the seat. It is impor-
tant that this contact be centralized on the valve
face. If this contact surface is not properly central-
ized, the seat should be relocated by using a 20°
stone at the top, or a 60° stone at the bottom,
whichever is necessary. Refer to Figure 53. When
the seat is properly positioned, the width of the
intake seats should be a liberal 1/16 inch, but not
more than 3/32 inch in any case. The width of the
exhaust seats should be 3/64 inch to a liberal
1/16 inch.
54x334 ^¾IBBi^ MINIMUM MEASUREMENT
If necessary the valves may be lapped to obtain
Figure 55—Checking Valve Stem Height a perfect gas seal. See Lapping Valves on Page
208 for additional details.
VALVE SPRINGS
When valves are removed, always check valve
springs for trueness and tension. Both intake and
exhaust valves should test at specifications given
in chart on page 184.
Check trueness of spring by placing it up on a
surface plate and using a square. If distance from
top coil to square is more than 1/16 inch, replace
spring.
If valves and/or seats are reground, check the
installed height of the springs. A thin metal scale
may be used. Make sure that scale is inserted to
the full depth of counterbore in cylinder head.
54x333
Measure to spring seat surface of retainer. If the
height is over 1-11/16 inch, install a 1/16 inch
Figure 56 — Testing Valve Springs spacer in the head counterbore to bring the spring
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 205
height back to normal 1-5/8 to 1-11/16 inches. SPRING EXHAUST VALVE ROCKERS
When new valves are installed, remove the hy-
draulic tappets lifting those valves, and clean as
described under Hydraulic Tappet. When simply
grinding valves, it is not necessary to clean tap-
pets provided all parts of each valve train are
returned to their original position.
When valves and seats are reground, the posi-
tion of the valve in the head is changed so as to
shorten the operating length of the hydraulic
tappet. This means that the plunger is operating
closer to its bottom position, and less clearance is
available for the thermal expansion of the valve
INTAKE VALVE ROCKERS
mechanism during high speed driving. Design of BRACKET-
plunger travel includes a safety factor for normal
wear and refacing of valves and seats. However, Figure 57 — Rocker Shaft Assembly, 2 4 1 , 260,
if face and seat grinding is carried to the point 270 Cubic Inch Engines
where the valve position is changed 1/32 inch or
more from its factory installed position, the dimen-
sion from the valve spring seat in the head to the RACK£T SCREW, WASHER AND LOCKWA5HER
•EXHAUST ROCKER
valve tip should be checked with gauge C-3436, -BRACKET STUD, NUT AND WASHER
•EXHAUST ROCK£R
as shown in Figure 55. BRACKET SCREW, WASHER ANÜ
`lOCKWASHER
•EXHAUST ROCKER
The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom BRACKET SÎUD, NUT AND
WASHER
of the slotted area represent the maximum and EXHAUST ROCKER
i BRACKET LOCATING
minimum allowable extension of the valve stem SPR!NG
', SCREW, WASHER
AND
tip beyond the spring seat. If the tip exceeds the IGCK WASHER
maximum, grind to approach but do not go below ¡NTAKF ROCKER t
the minimum allowable on the gauge. Clean tap- SPRíNG

pets if tip grinding is required. INTAKE ROCKER
SPRII
iNTAKE ROCKER
ROCKER A R M ASSEMBLY
SPRING
!NTAKE ROCK£R'
1955—If the rocker arm assemblies have been
disassembled for cleaning, inspection or the in-
stallation of new parts, they should be assembled Figure 58 —Cylinder Head Assembly, 241, 260
in the following manner: and 270 Cubic Inch Engines
Hold the rocker arm shaft and end bracket in a

horizontal position with the oil grooves facing EXHAUST VALVE
down. Now, slide an intake rocker arm over shaft ROCKER ARMS
and down against bracket, with the diagonal slant

of arm close to the bracket. See Figure 57. Then
slide a spacer spring over shaft and down against ADJUSTING SCREW
intake rocker arm. Next, slide an exhaust rocker
arm over shaft and down against spacer spring,
followed by a shaft bracket. Continue to slide first
an intake rocker arm, then a spacer spring followed
by an exhaust rocker arm and bracket, over shaft
until the last bracket has been installed.
Slide the push rods into the push rod holes in ROCKER SHAFT
ROCM : R SHAFT
the cylinder heads. Be sure that the rocker arms LOCK Pl.UC¯·
are in a horizontal position, then lower the rocker NÍAKt RC\ M.R ARMS
shaft assembly down on the two locating studs
on the head. Install flatwashers and nuts. See Figure 59 — Rocker Shaft Assembly,
Figure 58. 277 Cubic Inch Engine
MyMopar.com
1956—Slide rocker shaft into bore of strut and at

ROCKER SHAFT STRUT
INTAK£ VALVE same time engage intake rocker arm. Install spring
ROCKER ARM and engage exhaust rocker arm. Install remainder
of rocker arms in same sequence. Make sure that
rocker shaft head bolt grooves line up with head
bolt holes in rocker shaft strut. In addition the plug
hole in strut must also line up with hole in rocker
shaft. Then tap in new rocker shaft plug. Refer to
Figures 59 and 60.
MECHANICAL TAPPETS
Tappet adjustments should be made after en-

gine reaches normal operating temperature. Adjust
intake rocker arms to have .012 inches clearance
and the exhaust rocker arms to have .020 inches
Figure 60 — Installing Rocker Arms clearance. See Figure 61. The adjustment is made
(277 Cu. In. Engine) at the self-locking rocker arm adjusting screw. The
screw should have a minimum of 3 ft. lbs. tension
as it is turned. If less than this, replace the adjust-
TAPPET ADJUSTMENT j ment screw and if necessary, the rocker arm.
SCREW
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
When removing hydraulic tappets, use tool

C-3158 shown in Figure 35. If varnish build up is
excessive, use puller (part of tool C-3158) and work
tappet out of bore as shown in Figure 36.
Before disassembly of tappet, refer to Figure

62. Using a suitable tool, pry out the plunger re-
tainer spring clip. Clean varnish deposits from
inside of the tappet body above the plunger cap,
then invert the body and remove the plunger cap,
plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring,
check valve retainer and plunger spring. See Fig-
Figure 61 — Adjusting Mechanical Tappet
ures 62 and 63. Separate the plunger, check valve
(277 Cu. In. Engine)
retainer and check valve spring.
PLUNGER RETAINING SPRING CUP
PLUNGER CAP IMPORTANT

TAPPET PLUNGER
When more than one tappet is disassembled,
•FLAT VALVE it is very important that parts be kept separate.
The plunger and valve must always be fitted to
VALVE SPRING the same body.
VALVE RETAINER
PLUNGER SPRING CLEANING HYDRAULIC TAPPETS—Clean all

the tappet parts in a suitable solvent to remove all
trace of varnish and carbon, then inspect the tap-
TAPPET BODY
pets for wear, scoring or damage that would
S2x389 render them unfit for further service. After having
cleaned and inspected the tappets, assemble with
Figure 62 — Hydraulic Tappet—Disassembled care to make sure the parts are installed in the
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 207
body exactly as shown in Figures 62 and 63. Do

not install plunger cap and retaining clip at this
time. Install the check valve with the shoulder side
away from the plunger. The finished seat of the
check valve is on the side opposite the shoulder.
Then test the hydraulic tappet.
HYDRAULIC TAPPET TEST—Completely im-

merse tappet, in upright position, in a clean con-
tainer filled with kerosene until tappet is filled.
Remove tappet and install the plunger cap.
Hold the tappet in an upright position and insert

the lower jaw of pliers Tool C-3160 in the groove
in the tappet body, as shown in Figure 64. Engage 5¶×97¶B
the upper jaw of pliers with the top of tappet
Figure 64 — Testing Hydraulic Tappet
plunger cap.
Check the leakdown by compressing the pliers.

If the plunger collapses almost instantly, as pres-
sure is applied, disassemble tappet assembly and
reclean. Test tappet again. If the tappet still does
not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a
new tappet assembly. If the tappet shows the least
sign of not meeting the leakdown test, the tappet
should be discarded.
After the hydraulic tappets have been cleaned,

inspected and tested, install in the engine. It is
important that each tappet serviced be reinstalled
in its original bore in the engine block.
TAPPET BORE Figure 65—Reaming Tappet Bore
If the tappet bore shows evidence of scuffing,

scores or sticking, ream the bore to the next over- If the operation is to be done with the engine in
size, using tool C-3028 as shown in Figure 65 and the chassis, remove the camshaft. It is vitally im-
install a new tappet. Tappets are available in portant the cuttings from the reaming operation
standard and the following oversizes: .001, .008 do not get on any internal parts of the engine. The
and .030 inch. A diamond mark on the engine crankshaft must be completely covered to prevent
serial number pad indicates that .008 inch over- accumulation of cuttings.
size tappets are used.
15. VALVES, SPRINGS, SEATS AND
TAPPETS—POWERFLOW 6
Remove the valves and brush all carbon from
the cylinder head, heads of the pistons, valves and
valve seats with a wire brush. A wooden rack
containing 12 holes can be used to keep the valves
in correct order.
V. Check the valve stems and guides for wear by
52x366 placing each valve stem in its respective guide
and measuring the amount of side-to-side move-
Figure 63 — Hydraulic Tappet—Cross-Section ment of the valve stem in the guide with a dial
MyMopar.com
DIAL INDICATOR LAPPING VALVES

If it is necessary to lap the valves to obtain a
perfect gas seal, use a fine lapping compound and
apply light pressure. Control the lapping opera-
tion by installing a light coil spring under the valve
head. Valves and seats may be lightly lapped
together (to assure a tight seal) with a suitable
compound. Valve heads may be rotated by means
of a rod fitted with a vacuum cap which can be
operated by hand or by a machine. When the
lapping operation is completed, make sure all of
the compound is removed from the valve, the valve
seat, the intake port and the cylinder block.
32X85
REFACING VALVE SEATS
Figure 66 — Measuring Valve Stem To
Guide Clearance Clean all carbon from the valve guides with a
valve guide reamer. Exert light pressure on the
grinder to obtain the desired smooth surface. Do
indicator. Make this measurement with the valve not cause the stone to chatter by bearing down
at its fully-opened position (approx. 5/16 in.). See too hard. Be sure the stone is clean and true so
Figure 66. The dial indicator reading will be twice that the cut will be clean. Keep the width of the
the actual clearance between the valve stem and valve seat within specified limits—1/16 inch to
the guide. Check for scuffed valve stems which 3/32 inch. If the seat is too wide it is difficult to
might damage new valve guides. Install new obtain proper gas seal. Trim down a wide seat by
valves if necessary. relieving the edge with a 20° finishing stone. Then
check the seat for run-out with a dial indicator.
REFACING VALVES Run-out should not be greater than .0015 inch.
Replace valves that are badly burned, cracked
or warped. When refacing valves, make sure that
CAUTION
the grinding equipment is in good condition and
that the wheel is square, true and clean. The valve Make sure the indicator pilot fits snugly in-
must run true in the grinder chuck. If a dull wheel side the valve guide so that the indicator will
is used, the valve face may become scratched. not wobble and give a false reading. Remove
only enough metal to remove pits or other de-
When refacing a valve, remove enough metal pressions in the seat.
to clean up all pits and burned spots to obtain a
smooth surface so that the valve will make a good
seal with its seat. Do not grind so that a knife edge EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERTS
is left at top of valve. The valve should be at least
1/32 inch thick, measured between the upper edge Replace inserts that are cracked, burned or
of the face and the top of the valve. If the valve pitted. Remove old inserts with special tool C-732.
will not clean up and leave that amount of thick- Remove all burrs and rough edges. If the insert is
ness, install a new valve. loose in the block, install a .010 inch oversize in-
sert. A perfect fit can be obtained by boring out
Before installing a reground valve in the engine the counterbore from .002 inch to .004 inch smaller
block, remove carbon and varnish from the valve than the oversize insert. Install the new valve seat
stem. Oil the valve stem to provide the initial using special tool C-767. Regrind the valve seat.
lubrication.
NOTE
CAUTION
Valve seat inserts are fitted tightly and can
Do not pound the valve against the valve be installed by first chilling the inserts with
seat. This would damage the valve seat and dry ice to obtain maximum contraction. Do not
the valve face. handle a chilled insert with bare hands.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 209
Drive the insert in to its full depth. Make certain

the upper edge of the insert does not stick up 45x562
above the block by boring out the counterbore
.002 inch to .004 inch deeper than the height of the
insert. Tool kit, MH-M-1 can be used, if .010 inch
oversize insert is used and it is necessary to cut
the block in order to fit insert. Exhaust valve seat
inserts of .010 inch oversize are available.
VALVE GUIDES
Replacement guides are supplied with under-

size bores. Check the valve stem with a microme-
ter and lightly ream the valve guide to fit. Do not
remove too much metal with one cut. The clear-
ances for the valve stems and guides are Intake— Figure 67 — Reaming Valve Guide
.001 to .003 inch; Exhaust—.003 to .005 inch.
For intake valves, install the valve guides with
the counterbored ends downward. For exhaust
valves, install the valve guides with the counter-
bored ends upwad. This installation provides
better heat shielding. Drive the valve guides in to
full depth Ve inch below cylinder block top edge.
Tool DD-849 is available for removing and install-
ing valve guides.
When installing new guides, ream to the fol-
lowing specifications as necessary: Intake—.342
to .343 inch; Exhaust—.344 to .345 inch. Use reamer
C-249 for this operation. See Figure 67.
VALVE SPRINGS
DIAL INDICATOR-* 32X84
When valves are removed for reconditioning Figure 68 — Measuring Tappet Clearance
or replacement, test springs for proper tension.
Exhaust and intake valve spring tension should
be 110-120 foot-pounds when compressed to l¾
inches.
VALVE TAPPETS
Remove the oil pan and head so the tappets can

be lifted away from the camshaft lobes. The tap-
pets can be held up with spring type clothes pins
or other types of holders. Then remove the cam-
shaft, rotating it to clear the tappets.
If new tappets fit too loosely in the block, ream
Figure 69 — Adjusting Valve Tappets
the tappet bore oversize and install oversize tap-
pets. Special tool C-265 can be used for this opera-
tion. Oversize tappets are available in the follow-
ing sizes: .001 inch, .008 inch, and .030 inch. If a to a manifold stud. Raise tappet slightly above the
reaming tool is used, remove the valves and lower end of its normal travel and place the
springs so that a reamer pilot can be installed. plunger of the dial indicator against the upper
end of the tappet as shown in Figure 68. Move
To check tappet clearance, clean and dry the tappet back and forth. Clearance should not ex-
tappets and tappet guide. Attach a dial indicator ceed .002 inch.
MyMopar.com
Check the mushroom faces of the tappets for

pitting or scratches that might damage the cams.
Make sure the tappets have been rotating in opera-
tion. Replace the tappets that are pitted or
scratched.
TAPPET ADJUSTMENT
As a preliminary cold setting, adjust valve tap-

pets to .010 inch for intakes and .013 inch for
exhausts. To obtain an accurate cold setting, ad-
just each tappet when the cam nose is down. If
clearance is set when the tappet is part way up
the quieting ramp on the cam. excessive clearance
will result when the cam comes down.
When adjusting, be sure the feeler stock is flat
55PÌ326
and of the correct thickness. The use of old feeler
stock that is bent or torn can result in an improper Figure 7 0 — Insulating Washer For Engine
valve tappet adjustment. Left Rear Mounting
Finish checking the tappet clearance when the

engine is at normal operating temperature and
running at normal idling speed. Tappet clearance
(hot setting) should be .010 inch for intake valves On some models, a rubber insulating washer
and .010 inch for exhaust valves. If the car is to 3/32 inch thick is provided for the left mount only,
operate at high speeds for long periods, set the and should be installed between the frame and the
exhaust tappet clearance at .012 inch with the lower flat washer. See Figure 70.
engine hot and running. Valve tappet screws are This washer eliminates the transfer of noise on
self-locking. See Figure 69. rapid acceleration. The washer must not be com-
pressed between the frame and flat washer.
16. FLYWHEEL
To remove the flywheel, remove the propeller
shaft, the transmission, the clutch housing pan, NOTE
the clutch assembly and the oil pan. Remove the
flywheel nuts and the two lower bolts so that the Do not over-t¡ghten the rear engine mount-
flywheel can be turned to make the upper bolts ing bolts. Over-tightening these bolts may col-
accessible. lapse the insulator spacer.
Before installing the flywheel, check for face

run-out. Run-out should not exceed .005 inch. The
face of the flywheel should be free from scores ENGINE SUPPORT FOOT
and scratches. Tighten the flywheel nuts to a

torque of 55 to 60 foot-pounds.
17. ENGINE MOUNTINGS

(Compression Type)
The front and rear engine mount insulators must

be soft, pliable and easily deflected by finger
pressure. Do not use engine mount insulators
which are made of hard rubber. The hard rubber FRAME FRONT
insulators can usually be identified by a wide CROSS MEMBER
white stripe which is moulded in their sides. Use of

56P236
hard rubber insulators will result in engine rough-
ness and the transfer of vibration and noise to the
frame and interior of the car. Figure 71 — Shear Type Engine Mount
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 211
SHEAR TYPE MOUNTING

CAUTION
Shear type mountings consist of a rubber block
Before installing a replacement engine,
bonded between two metal plates so that the en-
check the clutch housing alignment.
gine movement forces act through the rubber in a
Always check the torque of the cylinder head
direction parallel to the plates. The front engine
bolts before starting the engine.
mount is attached to a bracket which is integral
Crank the engine with the starter until oil
with the engine block. Support the engine weight
pressure is registered on the oil gauge before
at the oil pan whenever it is necessary to service
running the engine on its own power.
the mounts. See Figure 71.
18. REPLACEMENT ENGINES Clean and inspect or replace the spark plugs.
Clean the distributor breaker points and reset the
New, factory-built replacement engines are gap, if necessary. Test distributor in a tester and
available. As in the production engines for Plym- recondition as necessary. On the generator and
outh cars, all factory standards are carefully starting motor, clean the armatures and replace
maintained in the assembly of the replacement the brushes, if necessary.
engines.
Carburetor and fuel pump should be inspected
If the engine serial number is followed by a and reconditioned if necessary. The carburetor air
letter A, it indicates that the engine is equipped cleaner should be drained, cleaned, and refilled.
with a special cylinder block having .020 inch Clean the crankcase breather pipe inlet air cleaner
larger bores than the standard production engine. and the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe air
If serial number is followed by a letter Bf it indi- cleaner.
cates that the replacement engine has .010 inch
thicker wall bearings for the main and connecting 19. ENGINE OILING SYSTEM
rod journals. OIL PUMP
When a replacement engine is installed, it is REMOVAL—Hy-Fire V-8—Drain engine oil and
advisable to recondition or replace all units trans- remove oil pan. Remove oil pump mounting bolts
ferred from the old engine to the new engine. and lower pump straight down.
ENGINE OILING SYSTEM — DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL P-26, P-28 P-27 P-29
Engine Lubrication — Type Pressure
Oil Pump — Type Rotary
Oil Pump Driven By Camshaft
Oil Pressure (25 to 30 MPH) 40 to 50 lbs.
Engine Oil Refill Capacity 5 quarts

(6 quarts with filter change)
Type of Filter By Pass 270 cu. in. Shunt

Shunt 277 cu. in. Full Flow
Oil Pressure Relief Valve Location Left Side in Block In Oil Pump Body
Oil Pump Location Right Side In Oil Pan

Exterior of Block
MyMopar.com
CAMSHAFT INTAKE ROCKER

MANIFOLD SHAFT
COVER
ROCKER
ARM
ROCKER
SHAFT
INTAKE
VALVE
VALVE
SPRING
SPARK
PLUG
EXHAUST
VALVE
EXHAUST
OIL FILTER MANIFOLD
CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAINCOCK
CRANKSHAFT
FLOATING OIL CONNECTING ROD

INTAKE
5SPT39!
Figure 72 — End Sectional View of Hy¯F¡re V-8 Engine
(241, 260 and 270 cu. in. Engines)
INTAKE MANIFOLD EXHAUST THERMOSTAT WATER
DISTRIBUTOR CROSSOVER PUMP
PASSAGE
CAMSHAFT
OIL PUMP
DRIVE G E A R \
REAR MAIN
BEARING
OIL SEAL
CHAIN CASE
COVER OIL SEAL
CONNECTING ROD
BEARING
CRANKSHAFT
REAR MAIN CONNECTING ROD
BEARING CRANKSHAFT
BEARING FLOATING OIL INTAKE 55P1233
Figure 73 — Side Sectional View of Hy¯F¡re V¯8 Engine

(241, 260 and 270 cu. ¡n. Engines) MyMopar.com
ENGINE 213
OIL PUMP (Cont'd) OIL PUMP A N D DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

OIL PUMP BODY
REMOVAL—PoweiFlow 6—Before removing the OIL PUMP ROTOR (INNER)
oil pumpƒ rotate the crankshaft and make sure the ROTOR PIN
DC mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with
COVER GASKET
the pointer on the chain case cover and the rotor
is ready to fire the No. 1 spark plug. After pump is
removed, do not bump the starter or let the engine
turn, as this will change the ignition timing.
OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT
OIL PUMP—DISASSEMBLY
OIL PUMP ROTOR (OUTER)
HY-FIRE V-8—Before disassembly of pump refer
to Figure 74. Remove the cotter pin holding the OIL PUMP COVER
oil strainer to the oil pump suction pipe, then re- COVER SCREW
move the pipe. Remove cover bolts and cover. LOCK WASHER
49x800
Discard oil seal ring. Remove pump rotor shaft
and lift out pump outer rotor. Remove the oil pres- Figure 75 — Oil Pump—Disassembled—
sure relief valve plug and lift out spring and PowerFlow 6
plunger. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and
inspect for damage or excessive wear.
STRAIGHT EDGE
POWERFLOW 6 — Before disassembly, see
Figure 75. Remove the oil pump cover and gasket.
Hold the hand over the cover opening and with
the pump upside down, turn the drive shaft until
the outer rotor slips out. Drive out the straight pin
which holds the pump drive gear to the shaft.
Press the shaft out of the drive gear and slide
the shaft and the inner rotor assembly out of the
pump body. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent
and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts
for damage or excessive wear.
RELIEF VALVE PLUG OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY

FEELER GAUGE 51x65
RELIEF VALVE SPRING

Figure 76 — Checking Oil Pump Covei
RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER Hy-Fire V-8
COTTER PIN
INSPECTION OF PARTS
SUCTION PIPE
PUMP COVER — Check for excessive cover to
VER SEAL RING (SMALL)
rotor wear. Cover should be smooth. If there are
INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
scratches or grooves, replace it. Check the cover
OUTER ROTOR
by placing a straight edge across the inner surface
WASHER of the cover and try to insert a feeler gauge be-
COVER SEAL \ f * " )
RING (LARGE!- \÷J / *s tween the straight edge and inner surface of the
cover. See Figure 76. If clearance is in excess of
PUMP COVER — limit shown below replace the pump cover.
PUMP COVER BOLT-
Hy-Fire V-8—Allowable maximum limit .0015 in.
PUMP M O U N T I N G BOLT — PowerFlow 6—Allowable maximum limit .001 in.
OUTER ROTOR — Measure the diameter and
thickness of the rotor with micro-calipers. If meas-
Figure 74 — Oil Pump—Disassembled—
Hy-Fire V¯8 (Continued on Page 217)
MyMopar.com
ROCKER SHAFT TO MAIN BEARINGS h·odboh rock·r shaft
OIL PASSAGE
TO CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
ROCKER SHAFT BRACKET

lliiiiils:::i .j«îl¡l¡ OIL FLOWS TO ONLY ONE BRACKET ON EACH HEAD
BRACKET IS SECOND FROM REAR ON RIGHT HEAD.
BRACKET IS SECOND FROM FRONT ON LEFT HEAD.
OIL
GALLERIES
FLOATING OIL I N T A K E — ¶ E - »
OIL FILTER
TO CONNECTING
ROD BEARINGS
FEED FROM OIL GALLERY TO "1 MAIN BEARING AND PASSAGE TO I
56P116
Figure 77— Engine Oiling System (277 Cubic Inch Engine)
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 215
Pressure relief valve

used with by-pass
IGNITION
type oil filter
DISTRIBUTOR
TO OIL FROM
FILTER OIL FILTER
CAMSHAFT MAIN
OIL GALLERY
OIL PUMP AND
DISTRIBUTOR
DRIVE GEAR
OiL PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE
CLOSED
When valve is closed

OIL PUMP oil pump fills pas-
Oft PUMP
sages and oil filter.
OIL PAN
OUTLET PIPE Relief valve blocks
OIL STRAINER oil flow from filter
to crankcase.
TO OIL FROM
FILTER OIL FILTER
LUBRICATION FOR
THRUST FACE OF
CAMSHAFT
OPEN
When oil pressure is

greater than relief
valve spring tension,
valve starts to open.
Excess oil returns to
crankcase·
TUBE LUBRICATING Relief valve opens
TIMING CHAIN O i l G«OOVt ANNUIU5
AND SPROCKETS CARRISS CONTINUOUS

H O W Of OIL FROM MA!N
* - - INDICATES passage to permit oil
DRIlLiO PASSAGE-
BEARING OIL PASSAGE
TO CRANKSHAFT O i l WAYS IN flow from filter to
PASSAGES CRANKSHAFT
crankcase·
55P1307
Figure 78 — Engine Oiling System—PowerFlow 6

MyMopar.com
216
MyMopar.com

CO
`<†
CN
Q_
<es¾
ENGINE 217
ROCKER SHAFT TO MAIN BEARINGS

OIL PASSAGE TO CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
OIL
GALLERIES
OIL FILTER
BY-PASS
OIL PUMP
FLOATING OIL INTAKE TO CONNECTING

ROD BEARINGS
55P117
Figure 80 — Engine Oiling System—Hy-F¡re V-8 (241, 260 and 270 Cubic Inch Engine)
INSPECTION OF OIL PUMP PARTS (Con†'d) ROTOR DEPTH — Slide rotors in pump body.
Place a straight edge across the pump body. Use
urements are less than the limits shown below, a feeler gauge and measure clearance between
replace both the inner and outer rotor. See Figure the top of rotors and straight edge as shown in
81. Figure 82. If clearance is in excess of .004 inch, re-
Hy-Fire V-8 — Diameter — Allowable minimum place the pump body.
limit 2.244 in. OUTER ROTOR TO PUMP BODY CLEARANCE
Hy-Fire V-8 — Thickness — Allowable minimum —Move rotors to one side and measure the clear-
limit .998 in. ance outer rotor and pump body with a feeler
gauge as shown in Figure 85. If clearance is in
PowerFlow 6 — Diameter Allowable mini- excess of limits shown below, replace the pump
mum limit 2.245 in. body.
PowerFlow 6 — Thickness Allowable mini-
mum limit .748 in. Hy-Fire V-8—Allowable limit—.012 inch
PowerFlow 6—Allowable limit—.008 inch
INNER ROTOR — Measure thickness of inner
rotor with micro-calipers as shown in Figure 84. INNER TO OUTER ROTOR CLEARANCE — To
If the thickness measures less than allowable lim- check rotors for excessive wear, measure the
its listed below, replace both inner and outer rotor. clearance between the lobes of the inner and outer
rotors as shown in Figure 83. If clearance is in
Hy-Fire V-8—Allowable minimum limit—.998 in. excess of .010 inch, replace both inner and outer
PowerFlow 6—Allowable minimum limit—.74 in. rotor.
MyMopar.com
DIAMETER
Figure 81 — M e a s u r i n g Outer Rotor Figure 84 — Measuring Inner Rotor
STRAIGHT EDGE
51x68
51x69
Figure 82 — Measuring Clearance Over Figure 85 — Measuring Clearance Between Outer

Pump Rotors Motor and Pump Body—Hy¯Fire V¯8
DRIVE GEAR
FEELER GAGE
PUMP BODY
51x70
32x46
Figure 83—Measuring Clearance Between
Pump Rotors—Hy¯Fire V-8 Figure 86 —Measuring End Play of Oil Pump
Typical of PowerFlow 6 Drive Shaft—PowerFlow 6
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 219
INLET PIPE
PARALLEL TO
OIL PAN WALL
OIL STRAINER INLET SHOULD

JUNE UP WITH REAR MAIN
BEARING RIGHT CAP SCREW
áÊk ''" m:'`- • • · 55P1232
Figure 87 — Floating Oil Strainer—PowerFlow 6 Figure 88 — Floating Oil Strainer—Hy-F¡re V-8
OIL PUMP—ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION plug hole. When the compression is felt by the
thumb, turn the crankshaft until the piston is at
HY-FIRE V-8 — When assembling oil pump, use top dead center, as indicated when pointer points
a new oil seal ring between the cover and body. to the DC mark on the crankshaft.
Tighten cover bolts 10 to 15 foot-pounds. Prime
the pump and then install a new oil seal ring in Turn pump drive shaft until the slot in end of
the pump mounting face. Install the pump as- drive shaft lines up with the cap screw holes in
sembly, being careful to align the drive slot in the mounting flange. Then turn the drive gear one
the pump shaft with the shaft. Tighten bolts to tooth, counter-clockwise, and carefully install the
30 foot-pounds. oil pump. Do not turn the drive gear while install-
ing the pump.
POWERFLOW 6 — Slide the drive shaft and the
rotor assembly into the pump body. Press the drive
OIL STRAINER
gear on the shaft until the end play of the shaft is
from .003 inch to .010 inch. Press the rotor down in The oil strainer is connected to the oil pump
the body with the hand and measure the clearance suction pipe and is pivoted so that it is free to
with a feeler gauge. See Figure 86. float near the top of the oil in the crankcase. A
stop limits its movement. See Figure 87 or Fig-
Install the pin and peen over both ends. If the ure 88.
pin holes do not line up, drill a new pin hole
through the gear and the shaft (at right angles to Clean oil is drawn from the top of the oil in
the other hole) with 5/32 inch drill. Slide the outer crankcase through the strainer and foreign ma-
rotor into place in the pump body. Install a new terial settles to the bottom of the oil pan.
cover gasket. Install the cover and tighten the
screws evenly. The oil strainer screen can be cleaned by re-
moving the bottom plate on the oil strainer float.
Use a new gasket when installing the oil pump. If the screen becomes clogged, oil will by-pass
Line up the slots on the end of the pump shaft with around the screen to the oil pump.
the mounting holes in pump flange. Turn the drive
gear counter-clockwise one tooth and slip the oil OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
pump into position. Check the position of the rotor
in the distributor cap. It should be ready to fire the HY-FIRE V-8 — The oil pressure relief valve is
No. 1 spark plug (rotor in "seven o'clock" position). located in the oil pump body and consists of a
plunger spring and plug. See Figure 74.
If the position of the No. 1 piston was accidental-
ly changed while the oil pump was removed, take POWERFLOW 6 — The oil pressure relief valve
out the spark plug. Rotate the crankshaft and is located on the left side of the cylinder block be-
check the compression of the No. 1 cylinder. Do low the starter motor and consists of a valve,
this by holding the thumb tightly over the spark spring, gasket and plug. See Figure 89.
MyMopar.com
SPRING CHART
Free Spring Pressure

Model Color Height and Checking Height
Power- Gray (light) 2 1/16 in. 16.1 -17.1 @ 3 1/32 in.

Flow 6 Red (standard) 2 1/16 in. 19.5 - 20.5 @ 2 27/32 in.
Brown (heavy) 2 1/16 in. 22.9 - 23.9 @ 2 31/32 in.
HyFire Red (light) 1 13/16 in. 12.4 -13.8 @ 1 1/4 in.

V-8 Black (standard) 1 13/16 in. 14.4 -15.8 @ 1 1/4 in.
Green (heavy) 1 13/16 in. 16.2 - 17.8 @ 1 1/4 in.
SERVICING OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE To remove the filter from the engine, it will be
necessary to remove the filter shell. Loosen the
Inspect the relief valve plunger and the spring
shell retaining nut and lift off shell. Remove filter
after removing the valve cap and the gasket. Ú
element by grasping wire handle. This will expose
the plunger is scratched, remove the scratches by
polishing, or install a new plunger. If the old mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift off filter base.
plunger is to be reinstalled, clean it and flush out Always use new gaskets when installing filter.
the bore with engine oil. POWERFLOW 6 — When replacing a complete
oil filter, disconnect both the inlet and the outlet
If the spring is to be replaced, use a new one
lines, and loosen the clamp bolt so that the body
of the same type. Do not use a heavier spring or a
can be lifted out. Avoid damaging the brass fit-
steel ball or washers behind the spring to raise
tings in thefilter.These fittings can be used when
the oil pressure. If oil pressure is low, check bear-
installing a new filter. When installing a new
ing fit or look for other causes of possible loss of
filter, tighten all connections firmly. Start the en-
oil pressure. Different colored springs are used in
gine and inspect the oil line connections for pos-
the oil pressure relief valve. The same colored
sible leaks. Operate the engine approximately 5
spring should be installed. See spring chart above.
minutes and recheck the oil level.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
HY-F¡RE V-8 — The shunt type oil filter, shown

in Figure 90, contains a replaceable element.
FILTER ELEMENT
(CARTRIDGE)
\
OIL FILTER BASE
51x992A
Figure 89 — Oil Pressure Relief Valv<

PowerFlow 6 Figure 9 0 — Oil Filter—Hy-F¡re V-8
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 221
IMPORTANT
Oil lines should be installed as near to the
cylinder block as possible. When installing a
filter bracket, make sure the legs of the bracket
fit against the cylinder head and the block to
prevent vibration damage to lines.
BEARING LEAK DETECTOR TEST am ^

When using a bearing leak detector, shown in
Figure 91, raise the car and drain the oil. Attach
the hose fitting of the bearing leak detector to the Figure 91 — Bearing Leak Detector
oil gallery at a pipe plug or the oil gauge line fit-
ting. Pour three quarts of No. 10 engine oil in the
tank of the bearing leak detector and charge the continuous stream of compressed air and make
tank with approximately 25 pounds of com- certain it is open. If this method fails to clear the
pressed air. Remove the valve chamber covers and passage, remove the crankshaft, clean out the oil
the oil pan. passage with a wire and blow out passage with
Open the valve from the tank to the engine. compressed air. Whenever a bearing job is per-
Watch as oil flows from the main, connecting rod formed make certain the oil passages are clear.
and camshaft bearings. Slowly turn the crankshaft.
If engine oil escapes from a bearing at a rate of 20. ENGINE TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
about two drops a second, the clearance can be Engine performance depends upon correct ig-
considered to be satisfactory. But, if the oil flows nition, carburetion and compression. In order to
from a bearing in a steady stream, the bearing maintain engine performance at its peak, and to
clearance should be checked. assure economical operation, a minor or major
engine tune up should be performed when engine
NOTE
performance or economy is below standard.
PowerFlow 6 — If oil flow is excessive from Detailed information for performing each step in
the front main bearing, when making a bear- the tune-up procedures will be found in the section
ing leak detector test, turn the crankshaft of this manual covering the unit involved.
about 90° because the hole in the crankshaft
may be lined up with the oil passage way to MINOR TUNE UP
the timing chain.
BATTERY—Test for weak or discharged battery.
Inspect cables in the charging circuit for looseness
Oil for the connecting rod bearings is supplied and the battery terminals for corrosion.
through passageways from the main bearing. If SPARK PLUGS — Remove, inspect and dean.
oil does not escape from a connecting rod bearing, Adjust spark plug gap to .035 inch. Reinstall, using
the passageway may be blocked. new gaskets.
Check for this condition by removing the con- DISTRIBUTOR — Adjust breaker points. Inspect
necting rod and main bearing. Clean out the oil distributor cap and rotor for cracks and corrosion.
passage. To make sure it is open, blow it out with Inspect small lead wires for breaks or damaged
compressed air. Hold a cloth over one end of insulation. Inspect distributor advance plate bear-
passage to catch possible foreign material which ing for excessive play.
may have blocked the passage.
IGNITION TIMING — Check and set the ignition
If oil fails to flow from a main bearing, the oil timing for brand of gasoline generally used by the
passage in the cylinder block is probably blocked owner. The engine will give its best performance
and the main bearing supplied by this main bear- if timed according to procedure outlined in the Ig-
ing oil passage, take out the main bearing and nition Section.
connecting rod bearings fed by that main bearing.
Remove the fitting in oil gallery opposite the CARBURETOR — Set idle mixture adjustments
blocked passage. Blow out the passage with a using a vacuum gauge. Adjust throttle stop screw
MyMopar.com
so engine idles at not less than 6 miles an hour. A steady reading of 18 to 21 inches of vacuum
Set accelerator pump linkage according to the up to 1,000 feet altitude indicates normal engine
season of the year. performance at idling speed. The vacuum reading
will fall off one inch for each 1,000 feet of altitude
AIR CLEANER — Remove, clean out the sump above sea level. If, for example, there is a steady
and refill to indicated level with recommended oil. needle reading of 18 inches at 1,000 feet altitude,
the same engine will give a vacuum reading of
PRIMARY AND HIGH TENSION WIRES — In- about 16 inches at 3,000 feet altitude.
spect wires for frayed or worn insulation or poor
connections. Repair or replace wires, and tighten When reading a vacuum gauge, a steady needle
connections as necessary. indicates good performance. A lower than normal
reading indicates poor compression or late timing,
FAN BELT — Inspect for a frayed or worn fan or air leaks at carburetor mounting flange or at
belt. Replace if necessary. the intake manifold gaskets. If timing is late, the
needle will be steady, but low. With poor compres-
sion, the needle will be low and unsteady. This is
MAJOR TUNE UP because compression pressure will vary between
cylinders. Vacuum will vary also because the
BATTERY — Clean and tighten connections. same leaks which cause low compression pressure
Test for weak or discharged battery. Make a volt- will also prevent the cylinder from developing its
age test of the battery cells. Add water if neces- maximum vacuum.
sary. Tighten all primary and high tension wire
connections, particularly at the ignition-starter If the vacuum gauge needle shows a steady
switch, ammeter and fuel gauge behind the in- drop of three or four inches each time that a
strument panel. particular cylinder is firing, it is an indication that
COMPRESSION TEST — Warm up engine to the valve is sticking or is burned so it does not
normal operating temperature. Remove all spark make a tight seal against its seat.
plugs and block throttle wide open. Insert com- When the vacuum gauge needle vibrates rap-
pression gauge in first spark plug hole and hold idly while the engine is idling, it usually indicates
it firmly. Crank engine and take reading. If worn intake valve stem guides. If the needle is
readings are low in two adjacent cylinders, the fairly steady at idle speed but vibrates rapidly
cylinder head gasket may be blown out. when engine speed is increased, the valve springs
If readings are low and vary widely (more than may be weak.
10 p.s·i on PowerFlow 6 and 15 p.s.i. on Hy-
Fire V-8), pressure is being lost either at the A floating action of the vacuum gauge needle
pistons, rings or valves. To determine where pres- probably means the air fuel mixture is too rich
sure loss is occurring, insert about one tablespoon to burn completely.
of SAE 30 engine oil through the spark plug hole.
Take a new reading. If this reading is higher than
the initial reading, the piston rings are faulty. If
reading is the same as the initial reading, the
valves may be leaking or the cylinder head gas-
ket is damaged.
LOW AND STEADY NEEDIE INDICATES THREE OR FOUR POINT INTERMITTENT
VACUUM TEST — PowerFlow 6 — Use the LOW COMPRESSION, AIR LEAKS, OR

LATE IGNITION TIMING
DROP OF NEEDLE INDICATES STICKY
VALVES
vacuum gauge to test engine operation. Connect

the vacuum gauge directly to the intake manifold. RAPID VIBRATION OF NEEDLE AT
If this is not done, a true reading cannot be IDLE SPEED INDICATES W O R N

INTAKE VALVE GUIDES
obtained. An accurate interpretation of needle

movements will often indicate whether the cause
of poor engine performance is due to internal RAPID VIBRATION OF NEEDLE WHEN
ENGINE IS ACCELERATED INDICATES
FLOATING MOTION OF NEEDIE
FROM RIGHT TO LEFT INDICATES
conditions, or due to improper adjustment of the WEAK VALVE SPRINGS RICH MIXTURE
carburetor or ignition timing. Check vacuum gauge

readings with compression gauge readings to
determine the exact cause of an internal engine
condition. See Figure 92. Figure 92 — Vacuum Gauge Indications
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 223
STARTING MOTOR — Inspect brushes, com- is not being sprayed into the carburetor when the
mutator, and switch. Check tension of brush spring accelerator linkage is moved, there may be a re-
by comparing old spring with a new one. Test striction in the fuel line from the tank to the carbu-
voltage and amperage draw at cranking speed. retor, or the fuel pump may be faulty. Disconnect
the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the
DISTRIBUTOR — In a testing fixture, check engine. If no fuel flows from the line, the line is
distributor performance at various speeds. Check clogged or the fuel pump is at fault.
the automatic governor advance and the vacuum
advance. Test condenser in suitable testing equip- Fuel Pump — At the pump, disconnect the
ment if available. line which leads to the fuel tank and apply com-
pressed air carefully at reduced pressure. Recon-
COIL — Test with coil tester for output at high nect the line and crank the engine. The fuel pump
and low speeds, and for shorts or open-circuits. is at fault if no fuel flows from the cleaned out line.
Test coil at normal operating temperature since a Inspect the pump and recondition as necessary.
cold coil may appear to be satisfactory under test
and yet may not be operating properly when Fuel Lines — Inspect for clogging by dis-
warmed up to its normal working temperature. connecting the fuel lines at the carburetor and fuel
pump and blowing out the line carefully with com-
GENERATOR — Test generator and voltage presed air at reduced pressure. Check the lines for
regulator with voltmeter and ammeter. possible air leaks on the vacuum side of the pump
FUEL PUMP — Check the fuel pump pressure especially the flexible hose and connections.
with a low-reading pressure gauge. Replace dia- Automatic Choke — Inspect the choke for
phragm, check valves or entire pump assembly proper adjustment. Remove the air cleaner and
as necessary. observe the position of the choke valve in carbu-
MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE—Inspect for clogged retor. The choke should be completely closed
or choked muffler, damaged baffles, kinks in tail when a cold engine is cranked.
pipe or other conditions which may affect engine Intake Manifold Leaks — Inspect for loose
performance. manifold or defective intake manifold gasket
CYLINDER HEAD AND MANIFOLD — Tighten which might result in air leakage. Inspect car-
cylinder head cap screws and manifold nuts to buretor gasket for damage or air leaks.
specified torque while engine is at normal operat- (b) Electrical
ing temperature.
Battery — Inspect for weak or discharged
CARBURETOR — Check float level. While car- battery. Inspect cables for looseness and the bat-
buretor cover is removed, clean out the bowl. tery terminals for corrosion.
VALVES — Adjust tappet clearance on Power- Spark Plugs — Check for fouling, cracked
Flow 6 (and 1956, 277 cu. in. V-8 engines) with porcelain or improper gap.
engine at normal operating temperature.
Wiring and Connections — Inspect wiring
for breaks, frayed or worn insulation. Inspect con-
21. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES nections for tightness and corrosion.
ENGINE DIFFICULT TO START OR Distributor — Inspect for wet or cracked
FAILS TO START distributor cap, poor connections or corroded ter-
Generally, the causes of hard starting can be minals in cap towers. Also check for worn, dirty,
classified as Mechanical or Non-Mechanical. A corroded, burned, or improperly adjusted contact
Mechanical condition indicates that corrective points, or for a defective condenser.
measures, such as, adjustment, repair, or replace- Coil — Inspect for a weak coil.
ment of parts are necessary.
Ignition Timing — Set ignition timing as
I. HARD STARTING—MECHANICAL CAUSES recommended in Ignition Section of this manual.
(a) Fuel System Starter Solenoid and Switch — If the sole-
Carburetor — Determine if fuel is reach- noid switch fails to "click" when the ignition key
ing the carburetor by removing the air cleaner and is turned to the starting position, connect a jumper
working the accelerator linkage by hand. If fuel wire from the negative battery post to the small
MyMopar.com
terminal on the solenoid. If this causes the solenoid 2. IGNITION SYSTEM — Inspect the spark
to "click", check for loose connections on the small plugs for fouling, improper gap or cracked porce-
terminal on the solenoid switch, the ignition- lains. Check the ignition timing and inspect the
starter switch, fuel gauge or ammeter. If the sole- distributor.
noid switch fails to "click" when energized with
the jumper wire, install a new solenoid. 3. COMPRESSION — Perform a vacuum or com-
pression test to determine the mechanical condi-
Starting Motor — Test starter for proper tion of the engine.
cranking speed. A slow turning starter may not
start engine. Check the amperage draw to make 4. CHASSIS FRICTION — Check for dragging
sure it is not excessive. If the test indicates that the brakes, tight wheel bearings or under-inflated
starting motor is not up to specifications, it should tires.
be removed, inspected and the necessary repairs
performed. "FLAT SPOT" ON ACCELERATION
(c) Compression The term "flat spot" is commonly accepted to

mean that engine operation is interrupted momen-
Perform compression test to determine if tarily when being accelerated in high gear at low
compression is being lost due to worn or leaking speeds. If such a condition occurs, check the oper-
valves, worn piston rings or leaking cylinder head ation of the accelerator pump system in the car-
gasket. buretor.
2. HARD STARTING — NON-MECHANICAL This is done by removing the air cleaner and
CAUSES working the throttle by hand. A stream of fuel
should flow from the accelerator pump jet. If this
Dampness — When high humidity pre- jet is not operating properly, the fuel stream will
vails, moisture may collect in the distributor cap, be thin, deflected to one side, or the fuel will mere-
on the spark plugs and spark plug wires and con- ly dribble out of the jet. If such is the case, the
nectors. This may result in the engine failing to carburetor should be cleaned and reconditioned.
start. Dry the spark plugs, wires, connectors, and
distributor caps.
ENGINE WILL NOT IDLE SMOOTHLY
Engine Oil — In extremely cold weather,
J. FUEL SYSTEM — If it is difficult to obtain
use the recommended engine oil in the crankcase.
smooth engine idle, determine whether or not the
Use of excessively heavy oil may cause a heavy
carburetor is at fault by trying to make the engine
drag on the engine, preventing proper cranking
roll. Do this by turning the idle mixture screw out
speed.
(counter-clockwise) to obtain an over-rich mixture.
Improper Starting Methods — Flooding of Also, try to make the engine stall by turning the
the carburetor may result if the accelerator pedal idle mixture screw in (clockwise) to provide too
is pumped when cranking the engine. If the throttle lean a mixture. If either of these fuel-air mixture
is not held opened approximately 1/3 when crank- extremes cannot be obtained, perform a vacuum
ing the engine, gasoline may not reach the mani- test, checking for air leaks or poor valve condi-
folds in sufficient quantity to start the engine. tions. If the vacuum test does not disclose any
mechanical conditions, it is an indication that the
Depress the clutch pedal when starting the en- carburetor is at fault.
gine, especially in cold weather. When this is
done, the transmission is disengaged from the The engine should be set to idle at approximate-
engine, thereby reducing the heavy drag of trans- ly 450 to 500 R.P.M.
mission lubricant. 2. IGNITION SYSTEM — Inspect the spark
plugs for fouling, cracked porcelains or improper
ENGINE LACKS POWER gap. Check high tension wires for frayed or worn
insulation or loose connections.
I, FUEL SYSTEM — Inspect the fuel lines for
obstructions or leaks. Inspect the carburetor for Check the distributor shaft for wear. Inspect for
the presence of dirt or water. Test the fuel pump a cracked distributor cap, loose or corroded termi-
by connecting a low pressure liquid gauge in the nals in the cap towers, burned, pitted or improper-
line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. ly adjusted contact points, corroded or worn rotor.
Fuel pump pressure should be checked. Check the Also, test coil and condenser with testing equip-
carburetor float level. ment.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 225
ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION pan and gaskets have been correctly installed and
are not damaged.
J. IGNITION SYSTEM — Inspect the spark
plugs for fouling, improper gap or cracked por- (b) Drain Plug — Inspect the oil pan drain plug
celain. Check the distributor for a cracked cap, for tightness.
loose or corroded terminals in cap towers, pitted
or improperly adjusted contact points, or a worn (c) Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal-— Inspect the
rotor. Check the distributor vacuum advance, con- underside of the clutch housing for traces of oil.
denser and coil with testing equipment. Inspect Oil at this point usually indicates leakage at the
high tension wires for frayed or worn insulation. rear main bearing oil seal.
2. VALVE SPRINGS — Weak valve springs (d) Fuel Pump — Oil drippage on the cylinder
may cause the engine to miss on acceleration or block below the fuel pump or the underside of the
at high speeds. oil pan at this point, is an indication that the fuel
pump mounting is loose or the gasket is at fault.
OIL LEAKAGE (e) Timing Gear Cover Gasket — Make sure the
cover is tight and that the gasket is correctly posi-
J. EXTERNAL LEAKS — Traces of oil on the tioned. Also, inspect the front crankshaft pulley
underside of the oil pan or the clutch housing, or seal.
oil that has dripped under a car that has been
standing for a short time may indicate oil leakage. (f) Valve Cover Gaskets — Make certain the
covers are tight and the gaskets are correctly
(a) Oil Pan and Gaskets — Make sure the oil positioned.
ROCKER ROCKER
CA SHAFT PUSH ROD
ARM TAPPETS * S O L D SHAFT
COVER
ROCKER
SHAFT INTAKE
VALVE
VALVE
SPRING SPARK
PLUG
EXHAUST
VALVE
EXHAUST
OIL FILTER
MANIFOLD
PISTON PIN
PISTON
CRANKSHAFT CONNECTING ROD
FLOATING OIL
INTAKE 56P237
Figure 93 — End Sectional View—Hy-F¡re V¯8 (277 Cubic Inch)

MyMopar.com
OIL CONSUMPTION or other such material. Also a spring heavier than

specified should not be used.
Blue smoke escaping from the tail pipe immedi-
ately after the engine is accelerated or deceler- 2. ENGINE OIL —Make sure that the recom-
ated is an indication that oil is being drawn past mended oil is used in the crankcase. A heavy oil
the piston rings or past the valves in the guides will not flow as rapidly as a light oil and high oil
and into the combustion chambers. If no smoke pressure may result.
escapes from the tail pipe when the engine is run-
ning, yet oil consumption exists, check for external 3. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE — Inspect the oil
leakage. gauge for accuracy.
ENGINE NOISES
NOTE
When new rings are installed in an engine, The noises described here are only those which
there may be more than normal oil consump- could originate inside the engine. No attempt has
tion until the rings are seated. been made to describe other noises coming from
other parts of the car.
To determine if the piston rings or valves are J. MAIN BEARINGS —A main bearing noise
faulty, perform a compression or vacuum test. (usually a deep-toned knock) is more noticeable
when the engine is under load. Check for this noise
LOW OIL PRESSURE by shorting out the spark plugs one at a time when
the engine is under load; approximately 35 MPH
J. EXTERNAL LEAKS — Inspect for possible (1700 RPM). If the noise is more noticeable when
leakage. Wipe the oil lines and fittings clean, run the spark plugs are shorted out on either side of
the engine at a fast idle and look for traces of oil a main bearing, that main bearing may be at fault.
at the points cleaned.
2. CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS —A loose
2. OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE — Inspect for connecting rod bearing usually produces a rapid
a broken or distorted oil pressure relief valve metallic knock which is most noticeable when the
spring. Check the plunger for dirt, nicks, or burrs. accelerator pedal is released immediately follow-
3. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE — Inspect the oil ing acceleration of engine. Find the faulty bearing
gauge for accuracy, by connecting an accurate by shorting out the spark plugs—one at a time. If
gauge in the line with a "T" fitting. the noise quiets down or disappears, when a par-
ticular spark plug is shorted out, the connecting
4. OIL — Make certain that oil of the recom- rod bearing at that point is probably responsible
mended viscosity is used in the crankcase. for the noise.
5. EXCESSIVE BEARING CLEARANCE—Check
3. PISTON — A piston noise is generally re-
flow of oil at the bearings by using a Bearing Leak
Detector. See page 221. ferred to as a piston "slap" and may be classified
as a hot or cold slap. A cold slap noise should
6. OIL PUMP — Inspect the oil pump parts for leave the engine when the heat indicator pointer
excessive clearance. starts to move away from the pin. Noise caused by
a cold piston is not harmful. If a hot piston slap
continues after the engine reaches operating tem-
NOTE
perature, it is an indication that some corrective
low oil pressure at engine idling speed is action is necessary. Check piston fit in bore and
not an indication of lack of oil circulation, pro- piston pin fit. Check piston for collapsed shirt,
vided the oil pressure increases with engine scored wall and proper taper.
speed. When the engine is operated at speeds
equivalent to a car speed of over 30 miles per 4. VALVES—Hy-Fire V-8 except 277 cu. in. en-
hour, the indicated oil pressure should be 30 gine—Inspect rocker arm and push rod for exces-
to 50 pounds. sive wear. Inspect for sticking valves or for a
binding condition of the rocker arm on the shaft.
Check tappet by making a leak down test. Over-
HIGH OIL PRESSURE
filling the oil pan will result in aeration of the oil
J. OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE — Make sure because the crankshaft and connecting rods will
the plunger is not sticking in the closed position. strike the oil. This air will be pumped into the
The spring should not be backed up with washers tappet and cause noise.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE 227
POWERFLOW 6 and 277 cu. in. V-8—li valve 3. CARBURETOR — Make sure the step-up pis-
noise is evident, check valve tappet clearance. ton is operating properly. Check for high float level
Valve tappet noise cannot be controlled by setting and for dirt in the air cleaner which might restrict
the clearance less than recommended. After check- the passage of air. Test for excessive fuel pump
ing the tappet clearance, inspect the valve stem pressure.
ends, the valve guides, the valve tappet adjusting
screw, and the cam lobes for wear. Also, inspect 4. CHOKE — If the choke is not wide open with
for weak or broken valve spring. engine at operating temperature, an over-rich fuel
air mixture will be delivered to the carburetor and
5. FUEL PUMP—An air leak on the intake side fuel consumption will be increased.
of the fuel pump will increase diaphragm move-
5. CHASSIS FRICTION — The slightest amount
ment and result in noise. Inspect the inlet lines for of brake drag will tend to increase fuel consump-
tightness. tion. Inspect for tight wheel bearings. Check front
wheel toe-in. Inflate tires to the recommended
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION pressure. Check lubrication of universal joints,
rear axle and transmission.
When excessive fuel consumption is suspected,
a fuel test should be made to determine whether a If the fuel test indicates that the car condition
mechanical condition in the engine is responsible, is not the cause of excessive fuel consumption, the
or whether the condition is due to driving habits. operator should be informed of the following good
driving practices which promote fuel economy.
Fuel tests should be made under controlled con-
ditions with a suitable fuel mileage tester. Make DRIVING METHODS AND WEATHER
two test runs (one with, and one against the wind) CONDITIONS
at a constant speed of 30 miles an hour over a
level road. An average of these two test runs will 1. CITY DRIVING —To obtain maximum fuel
indicate the mileage the car is capable of deliver- mileage in city traffic, it is advisable to avoid fre-
ing under these controlled conditions. quent use of low gears when possible. Fast starts
and resulting excessive brake applications will
greatly increase fuel consumption.
NOTE 2. HIGHWAY DRIVING — It requires more fuel

per mile to operate car at 70 miles an hour than at
A gas mileage test under controlled condi- 35 miles an hour. At 70 miles an hour, the engine
tion will reveal the maximum fuel mileage the develops about 60 horsepower and only approxi-
car is capable of delivering. Under normal mately 10 horsepower at 35 miles an hour. As
driving conditions, the fuel mileage will be less more horsepower is developed, more fuel will be
because of operating conditions generally required. At high speeds, wind resistance must be
beyond the control of the driver. These condi- overcome. As speed increases, friction on the mov-
tions are explained in the following para- ing parts of the engine increases. More fuel must
graphs under the heading "Driving Methods be consumed by the engine to overcome the drag
and Weather Conditions." imposed under these conditions.
At freezing temperatures, tests show that a car

must be driven approximately 8 miles before maxi-
If the results of the fuel test indicates excessive mum fuel mileage can be obtained. At lower tem-
fuel consumption under controlled conditions peratures, the car must be driven even greater
based on tests made on similar model cars known distances to secure maximum fuel mileage.
to be in good mechanical condition, the following
units should be checked. Not only does the engine have to be warmed
up during cold weather, but also the units of the
1. IGNITION TIMING— Check ignition timing drive train, to reduce chassis friction.
at various operating speeds. Check vacuum ad-
vance unit. 3. OVERLOADING—PULLING HEAVY LOADS
— When operating with excessive loads, the en-
2. SPARK PLUGS—Check for fouled electrodes, gine must deliver extra power and more fuel will
cracked porcelain and improper gap. be burned.
MyMopar.com
WHEELS AND TIRES
Models P-26, P-27, P-28, P-29
Type Steel Disc
Rim Drop Center — Safety Wheel

Wheels
Size 15 in. x 4½ in.
Number of Bolts to Attach Wheel 5
Bolt Hole Circle—(diam.) 4½ in.
Bolt Size ½ in. — # 2 0
Super Cushion
Type
Tubeless
Size 6.70 x 15
7.10 x 15 (Spec. Equip.)
Tires
Ply 4
Tread Deluxe Ribbed
TIRE PRESSURE
Pounds—Cold (6.70 x 15 and 7.10 x 15) 24
1
54x364
Figure 1—Safety Wheel Rim Figure 2 — Removing Tire from Rim with
Car Jack
MyMopar.com
229
SECTION XIII
WHEELS AND TIRES
Page
1. Dismounting and Mounting Tires 229
2. Repairing Tubeless Tires 230
3. Tire Care 233
4. Wheel Balance 233
5. Wheel Bearings 235
6. Diagnosis Procedure 235
1. DISMOUNTING AND
MOUNTING TIRES
SAFETY RIM WHEELS
The wheel rims incorporate a special safety

feature to give added protection in case of a blow
out or rapid deflation of the tire while the car is
in motion. This takes the form of a raised section
between the rim flange and the rim well, as shown
in "A" of Figure 1. Inflation of the tire snaps the
tire bead over this raised section and out against
the flange. The force required to pull the bead
back over this raised portion tends to keep the Figure 3 — Removing Tire from Rim with
tire out against the flange even though rapid de- Tool C-715
flation occurs.
Holding the tool in the compressed position,

REMOVING TIRE FROM SAFETY RIM press the complete circumference of the tire bead
WITH CAR JACK into the well with the foot. Then remove tire in
With wheel and tire removed from car, deflate the regular manner.
tire completely by removing valve core. After
loosening both beads, squeeze both sides of tire
(at one place) together and work into rim well.
Then opposite this point, insert a regular tire tool
and pry casing off wheel rim using care not to
damage sealing grooves on tire bead. See Fig-
ure 2.
REMOVING TIRE WITH SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL
Completely deflate tire by removing valve core.

Place tire and wheel over base of Tool C-715, then
insert pry arm on the tire directly next to the rim 54*367
of the wheel as shown in Figure 3. Figure 4 — Installing Tire Beads
MyMopar.com
54x309
Figure 5 — Constricting Centerline of Tire Figure 7 — Slow Leak in Tread of Tire
with Mechanical Tool
When using the rope tourniquet, use one or two

turns around the tire (depending on the size of
the rope.) Using a tire iron, twist the rope and at
the same time, pound the tread (using a rubber
mallet) at various places to evenly distribute the
tension.
When the beads have moved out to contact the

seats, again apply air pressure, but only enough
to seat the beads.
Remove the constricting tool or rope, install the

valve core and inflate the tire to the recommended
54x370 pressure.
Figure 6 — Constricting Centerline of Tire
with Rope Tourniquet
2. REPAIRING TUBELESS TIRES
LOCATING LEAKS
MOUNTING TIRES
To install tubeless tires on the wheel apply a In most cases the tire and wheel need not be
very mild soap and water solution (1 or 2%) on removed from the car for repair if the leak can be
the tire beads. See Figure 4. readily found. The puncturing object, when found,
can be removed and leak repaired using the plug
After the tire has been mounted on the wheel method.
and with the valve core out, apply a blast of air.
If the beads do not contact both bead seats suffi- If the tire is flat, reinflate and listen for a fast
ciently to seal the pressure then the beads must leak. If the leak is too slow to be found by sound,
be spread by constricting the tread centerline as remove the wheel and tire and submerge in a
shown in Figures 5 or 6. water test tank.
The use of a mechanical constrictor tool C-3440
When a test tank is not available, apply a coat-
shown in Figure 5r will seat the beads to seal the
ing of soap solution with a paint brush or hand
pressure for inflation.
spray. Cover surface of tire, valve stem and the
If the mechanical constrictor is not available, juncture of tire and rim flange. Allow five minutes,
a simple rope tourniquet can be used as shown any slow leak will show up as an accumulation
in Figure 6. of white foam or air bubbles as shown in Figure 7.
MyMopar.com
WHEELS AND TIRES 231
54x372
Figure 8 — Leak at Valve Stem Figure 10 — Lubricating Puncture with Cement
Fast leaks will sometimes blow thru the soap OUTSIDE REPAIR METHOD
film and not form bubbles or foam. If no foam Ordinary punctures are easy to repair with a
shows, reapply the coating carefully, watching tubeless tire repair kit, using the plug method. The
at the same time for large bubbles. repair can be made with the tire inflated or flat
Valve leaks usually show up as bubbles issuing without removing the tire from the rim. The repair
from between the valve stem and wheel. Drop kit contains an assortment of rubber plugs, a
some soap solution at this point and watch for needle inserting tool and repair cement and in-
the bubble, as shown in Figure 8. There have been structions for their use.
cases of rim leakage thru cracks or around rivets. Remove the puncturing object from the hole. Dip
If the leak does not show up from the usual places the needle in the repair cement and probe into the
(punctures, rim flange,valve or stem), then be sure puncture to locate its direction as shown in Fig-
to check the rim. ure 10.
The metal-type valve stem can be repaired, in Repeat until hole is well lubricated. Do not force
most cases, by replacement of the rubber gasket. the needle if it seems to be blocked. Forcing may
A snap-in type rubber valve stem that leaks must make a double hole that is difficult to seal com-
be replaced. See Figure 9. pletely.
* I
54x373
Figure 9 — Installing Snap-In Type Valve Stem Figure 11 — Inserting Needle and Plug
Using Special Tool in Puncture
MyMopar.com
INSIDE REPAIR METHOD
When a tire has been punctured by an irregular

shaped object, it may still leak when repaired by
the "outside or plug" method. The "outside meth-
od" is recommended first because it is the easiest.
This condition, when found, will require the use of
the "inside" method for repair.
PREPARATION — Remove the tire from the
wheel. Install spreaders, as shown in Figure 14.
Trim the inside end of plug flush with the liner.
Next, buff the liner approximately 1 inch around
the puncture. (Be sure and leave the plug in the
hole as this will serve to keep moisture out of the
tire fabric.)
54x386 If no plug is available, a little extra repair gum

should be worked into the hole before applying
Figure 12 — Plug and Needle Installed the patch.
in Puncture
It is not necessary to use cement to obtain good
adhesion.
EQUIPMENT—Two types of equipment are now
available for curing inside patches. The "Match
Patch" or powder burning type depends upon heat
from the slow fire. The "Electric" type has a "fuse"
plug that automatically cuts off the power when
the cure is completed. Both types depend upon
"C" clamps for pressure during cure.
NOTE
All inside tire repairs must be made

with HOT PATCHES to insure proper curing
54x388 and adhesion.
Figure 13 — Sealing Plug Correctly Installed
Select the plug or plugs according to the size

of the hole. The plug should be about twice the
diameter of the hole. Dip the plug and needle end
in the repair cement and immediately insert into
the hole in the tire with a firm and steady motion.
Push the needle and plug in until the short end
of the plug snaps through the tire as shown in
Figure 12. Remove the needle by pulling straight
out. The plug will unhook automatically. Trim the
plug approximately ¼" above the tread surface, '54x389 -
as shown in Figure 13. A properly installed plug
will last the life of the tire. Figure 14 — Spreaders Installed in Casing
MyMopar.com
ROTATION OF TIRES EVERY 3,000 MILES

IS THE ONLY WAY TO EVEN OUT TIRE
WEAR AT THE DIFFERENT WHEEL POSI-
TIONS AND TO OBTAIN MAXIMUM TIRE
LIFE.
45x572
Figure 15 — Tire Rotation Plan
PATCHING—Remove the strip from the rubber Always use an accurate gauge when testing tire
patch on the metal curing plate and center over pressure. An inaccurate gauge can be in error as
puncture. Apply pressure and cure according to much as 2 or 3 pounds, which is ten percent of the
instructions supplied with the equipment. recommended tire pressure.
The inside curing methods will provide easy,
completely permanent repair for any kind of a TIRE ROTATION
tubeless tire puncture that has not seriously dam- The rotation of tires every 3,000 miles evens out
aged the cord body. normal tire wear at the different wheel positions
and increases the life of the tires. By including the
3. TIRE CARE spare, the total mileage available from the set of
five tires will be increased. See Figure 15.
TIRE PRESSURES
STATIC ELECTRICITY
The air pressure in tires (tubeless or with tubes)
will increase after the car h a s b e e n driven, d u e to Sometimes enough static electricity is built-up
pressure build-up. Never reduce this build-up by tire friction to give a person a perceptible shock
pressure. W h e n the tires are cold, such a s after when the door handle or other metal parts of the
standing over night, the pressure will be l e s s than car are touched. This condition is also sometimes
w h e n the tires are w a r m after driving. reflected in the performance of the car radio, creat-
ing a static noise developing in the radio speaker.
After driving at moderate s p e e d s , such a s in
the city, a pressure build-up (summer or winter) of
Static under these conditions, can usually be
at least 3 pounds over the cold pressure is normal. suppressed by the use of Tire Static Suppression
Powder.
After driving at high s p e e d s o n the h i g h w a y , a
pressure build-up (summer or winter) of at least 5 The powder is supplied as a service package
pounds over the cold pressure is normal. for one car and consists of a large envelope con-
taining five smaller envelopes, each of which in-
cludes the right amount of powder for injection in
TIRE: PRESSURES
Cars with Cars with one tire. The tool for injecting the powder into the
PowerFlow 6 Hy-FireV-8 tire is known as a tire static suppression powder
Engine Engine injector.
Before driving
(tires cold) 24 lbs. 26 lbs.
After moderate driving
4. WHEEL BALANCE
(tires warm) 27 lbs. 29 lbs. The need for balancing wheels is indicated by
After high s p e e d driving heavy vibration of the steering wheel of the car,
(tires hot) 29 lbs. 31 lbs. when driving at speeds above 40 miles an hour
over a smooth, straight highway.
MyMopar.com
A wheel and tire assembly which has been

balanced statically may rotate freely without
bouncing or shimmying if the amount of weight
added to the rim flange does not throw the as-
sembly out of dynamic balance. The use of wheel
balancing equipment will greatly facilitate the
operation of balancing the assembly both statical-
ly and dynamically.
DYNAMIC BALANCE
Dynamic balance (running balance) is the even

distribution of the total weight of the wheel and
tire assembly around its axis of rotation. An as-
sembly can be in static balance yet not balanced
Figure 16 — Balancing Wheel and Tire
dynamically. A wheel and tire assembly correctly
Assembly Statically
balanced should run smoothly at all speeds on
its axis of rotation through the centerline of the
wheel. See Figure 17.
STATIC BALANCE
To balance a wheel statically, remove oil seal If wheel and tire weight is unevenly distributed
and grease from bearings to permit free rolling in relation to the centerline of the wheel, as shown
of the wheel. Then install the wheel, hub and drum at "A," centrifugal force when the wheel is rotat-
assembly on the steering knuckle spindle. The ing will throw the wheel out of line first in one
brakes must be fully released so that they do not direction then in the opposite as the wheel rotates
drag. 180° and will increase as car speeds increase. This
can cause wheel wobble or shimmy.
Rotate wheel. When wheel stops rotating, heavy
part of the assembly will be at the bottom. Install To correct this condition,weight should be added
two external balance weights directly opposite the
so that the total weight is evenly distributed in
heavy side of the wheel. See Figure 16.
relation to both the axis of rotation and the center-
line of the wheel, as shown in Figure 18.
Gradually move weights apart—equal distance
from the starting point until the wheel is in balance.
The wheel is in balance when it will stand in any CHECKING WHEEL AND TIRE RUN-OUT
position of its own accord.
Since the general practice of checking a wheel
DIRECTION OF FORCE for run-out is to measure the radial and lateral
CENTER LINE
CENTER LINE OF WEIGHT MASS
movement of the tire, it should be remembered
OF W H E E L -
that such run-out is only an indication and not a
rr?s\ proof that the wheel may be at fault. Where
AXIS OF measurements indicate that the radial runout of
ROTATION
SPINDLE the wheel and tire assembly exceeds .090" or ap-
proximately 3/32", or lateral (or wobble) run-out
exceeds .120" or approximately 1/8", the tire
STEERING should be removed from the wheel and the wheel
KNUCKLE
PIVOT
itself checked.
DIRECTION Referring to figure 19, the radial run-out at each

OF point indicated by "A," should not exceed .045",
FORCE-
54x393
while the lateral run-out, when checked at points
"B," should not exceed .060" or approximately
Figure 17 — Dynamic Unbalance 1/16" total.
MyMopar.com
CENTER LINE
OF WHEEL
5. WHEEL BEARINGS
ADJUSTMENT
To adjust front wheel bearings, remove hub

cap, grease cap and the cotter pin from the bear-
ing adjusting nut. Rotate wheel and tighten ad-
EVEN justing nut until a slight bind is felt. Back off ad-
BALANCE justing nut to the nearest cotter pin slot and install
cotter pin. Never back off adjusting nut less than
STEERING
KNUCKLE
½ the distance from one slot to the next slot. When
PIVOT
WHEEL SPINNING-
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, the wheel
N O WABBLE must rotate freely.
54x394
LUBRICATION
Figure 18 — Dynamically Balanced Wheel
and Tire If grease is emulsified or short in quantity, it
should be completely removed, by thorough wash-
ing and cleaning of bearings in clean solvent.
NEVER ADD GREASE TO WHEEL BEARINGS.
After cleaning, inspect the bearing and races for
cracking, flaking, brinelling or excessive wear, if
found satisfactory, repack bearings with Short
Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease and add 2.5 ounces
to the inner surface of the hub.
WHEEL TRAMP
Wheel tramp usually develops at high speeds
and is caused by the bouncing of the wheels on
the road. The effects of wheel tramp can be felt,
not only in the steering wheel, but also, through-
out the car. Wheel tramp is caused by excessive
looseness of king pin bushings or wheel bearings,
lack of control in shock absorbers, or out-of-
Figure 19 — Checking Wheel and Tire Run-Out balance front wheels.
This condition should not be confused with the
roughness resulting from spotty wear on front
IMPORTANT tires. Spotty wear can only be controlled by the
rotation of tires at the recommended interval of
Under no circumstances should points 3,000 miles.
indicated by "C" in figure 19 be used for
checking run-out as this metal has been EXCESSIVE TIRE WEAR
sheared in the manufacturing process and
as a result is not an even surface. In addition to normal wear, other types of tire
wear are classified as "Spotty Wear," "Under-In-
flation Wear," "Toe-In and Toe-Out Wear" and
"Camber Wear." Tires wear at a different rate on
When checking the wheel for run-out# it should all four wheels due to driving conditions, the dis-
be attached to a hub that is free to rotate but tight tribution of the car's weight, the power on the rear
enough to prevent any wobble; likewise, the dial wheels, and the crown of the road. For this reason,
indicator should be known to be accurate and at- it is recommended that tires be rotated every 3,000
tached to a firm surface to assure that it will be miles to equalize wear and to obtain maximum
held steady while taking the run-out readings. tire life.
MyMopar.com
4OO 45x70*
Figure 20 — Spotty Wear Figure 22 — Over-Inflation Wear
J. SPOTTY WEAR—This condition occurs on 2. UNDER-INFLATION WEAR — This type of

front tires (Figure 20), but does not progress to wear can be recognized by excessive wear on the
any great extent before the first 3,000 miles of two tread ribs adjacent to the inner and outer
driving. This type of wear is caused by the natural shoulder ribs. See Figure 21.
rolling of the tire on the road.
This condition indicates that the tire has been
used at a lower operating pressure than that for
Changes in wheel alignment, balancing of front
which it is designed.
wheel assemblies, will not correct this condition.
The only known method of controlling spotty wear 3. OVER-INFLATION WEAR—This type of wear
is to keep the tires inflated to the recommended can be recognized by excessive wear on the center
pressure and rotate them every 3,000 miles. of the tread and little wear on the outer edges of
RIGHT FRONT
TIRE
45x4O2 45×4O3
Figure 21 — Under-lnflat¡on Wear Figure 23 — Toe-in Wear

MyMopar.com
4Sx4O4 45x4O5
Figure 24 — Toe-Out Wear Figure 25 — Camber Wear
the tire. See Figure 22. Using a tire at higher than develop wear on the inner ribs of the tire. Camber
recommended operating pressure will result in wear may also be evident if the car is driven most
early failure at the center ribs and may also lead of the time on highly crowned roads.
to breaks in the wall.
6. GRABBING BRAKE WEAR—A high spot or
4. TOE-IN OR TOE-OUT WEAR—The amount of out-of-round brake drum, or any condition caus-
toe-in or toe-out of the front wheels affects the rate ing a brake to grab momentarily as the wheel
of tire wear more than any other factor of front rotates, will cause flat spots to appear on the tire
wheel alignment. Toe-in wear (Figure 23) produces tread.
a feather-like edge at the inside edges of the tread
ribs and can usually be felt when the hand is WHEEL BEARING NOISE
rubbed over the face of the tread. WHEEL BEARINGS—To determine if the wheel
Toe-out wear (Figure 24) produces the same bearings are worn or damaged, road test the car
condition as toe-in wear, except that the feather- and apply brakes. This action will take some of
like edge is formed on the outside edges of the the load off the wheel bearings, and noise, if
tread ribs. present, will diminish, indicating that the bearings
are at fault. Raise front wheels and check for loose
5. CAMBER WEAR—Excessive positive camber bearings by shaking wheels in and out. If a wheel
will cause noticeable wear on the outer ribs of the is loose, remove it and check condition of bearings
tire. See Figure 25. Excessive negative camber will and bearing cups before tightening the bearings.
MyMopar.com
BUTTON CLAMP
BALL AND
ROLLER ASSY
P!N
WASHER
BALL AND ROLLER
SPRING
BUTTON
NUT
LOCKWASHER
BOLT
45x432
Figur· 1 — Universal Joint Disassembled
BODY BALL
HEAD
DUST
COVER
45 X 128
Figure 2 — Installing Dust Cover

MyMopar.com
239
SECTION XIV
UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND

PROPELLER SHAFT
Page
1. Universal Joints 239
2. Universal Joint Dust Cover 239
1. UNIVERSAL JOINTS Pack the universal joint body with l½ ounces

of Universal Joint Grease. Partially install the rub-
ber dust cover. Lubricate and install the thrust
REMOVAL AND INSPECTION washers, rollers, balls, centering springs and but-
tons. Pull the universal joint body over the trunnion
Disconnect the propeller shaft. Clamp the pro- pin and install the gasket and cover. Bend down
peller shaft lightly in a bench vise and support the the clip ends of the dust cover over the ends of the
other end of the shaft. Remove the long dust cover universal joint body.
clamp from the flanged lip of the universal joint
body. Bend the clip ends of the grease cover up-
ward. Remove the cover and gasket and slide the 2. UNIVERSAL JOINT DUST COVER
body of the universal joint toward the end of the The universal joint dust cover should be in-
propeller shaft. Remove the trunnion pin with spected at every chassis lubrication, particularly
special tool C-552 and disassemble the universal if the car is operated on rocky or gravel roads.
joint. See Figure 3. If any parts show evidence of Replacement dust covers of the synthetic rubber
wear or scoring, they should be replaced. type can be installed without removing the trun-
nion pin. See Figure 2.
IMPORTANT
The trunnion pin does not have to be re-

moved when lubricating the universal joint.
Since removal and installation of the pin re-
quires the use of a special tool, it should be
removed only when it is necessary to install a
new pin.
INSTALLATION
Install trunnion pin with special tool C-552. The

trunnion pin should be a tight press fit. Each end
of the pin should protrude the same distance from
the universal joint ball head. A variation of more
than .006 inch may cause the propeller shaft to 5$PÌO45
become unbalanced and may result in excessive
vibration. Use a dial indicator to check the pro- Figure 3 — Removing and Installing Universal
peller shaft run-out and trunnion pin location. Joint Trunnion Pin With Special Tool C-552
MyMopar.com
Figure 4 — Forcing Dust Cover Figure 5 — Repositioning Cone On

Through Body Inner Greased Seal Figure 6 — Installing Clamp
PROPELLER SHAFT
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
MODEL P-26, P-28 P-27, P-29

Make Universal Products
Type Tubular
Propeller Shaft
3.54-3.73 3.9 and higher

Diameter (Three-Speed Transmission) 3 in.
3 in. 3½ in.
Diameter (Overdrive) 3 in. 3½ in.
Diameter (PowerFlite Transmission) 2½ in. 2¾ in.
Length (Center to center of pins on shaft)

Three-Speed Transmission 59.5 in. 59.5 in.
Three-Speed and Overdrive 59.5 in. 59.5 in.
PowerFlite Transmission 54.375 in. 54.5 in.
Make Universal Products
Type
Universal Joints
Ball and Trunnion
Number Used 2 2
Bearing Lubrication Prepack Prepack
Body Stamped Forged
Propeller Shaft Flange Nuts ¾' 35 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND PROPELLER SHAFTS 241
To install a new dust cover, remove the propeller 3. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES

shaft and clamp it lightly in a vise. Be sure the op-
posite end rests horizontally on the bench to pre- NOISE
vent movement. Remove the old dust cover and
disassemble the universal joint leaving the trun- UNIVERSAL JOINTS—Check for worn universal
nion pin installed. Thoroughly clean the body, ball joints by turning the propeller shaft by hand. Ex-
head and pin with kerosene. cessive back lash or looseness can be felt by hand
pressure. Inspect for improperly lubricated or worn
Coat the inside and outside of the synthetic rub- universal joints. Roughness at low to moderate
ber dust cover with clean grease. This will facilitate speeds often indicates worn universal joints.
sliding the dust cover through the universal joint
body. Push the universal joint body toward the VIBRATION
propeller shaft to expose the trunnion pin. Vibration caused by an unbalanced propeller
shaft or other chassis parts can usually be detected
Pull the dust cover through the body into position by driving at a speed slightly above the speed
over the trunnion pin. See Figure 4. When this is where the condition is most noticeable and shift-
done, the cone or inner grease seal may become ing the transmission into neutral and letting the
reversed. If this occurs, pull the seal back into car slow down. If vibration is still evident, look for
normal position. See Figure 5. the following conditions:
J. PROPELLER SHAFT — Inspect the propeller
Install the small end of dust cover over flanged
shaft for dents, accumulation of road tar, mud, ice
lip of the propeller shaft and secure the cover with
or body undercoating.
the short clamp. Make sure the inner seal is prop-
erly positioned over the small diameter of the 2. UNIVERSAL JOINTS — Inspect the trunnion
propeller shaft and the large end of the rubber pin for correct installation. If the trunnion pin is
dust cover is around flanged lip of the universal installed incorrectly, the propeller shaft balance
joint body. Secure the large end of the dust cover and run-out will be affected.
with the long clamp, tighten the screw and cut off
the end of the screw close to the clamp. See Figure 3. UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGES — Inspect for
6. bent flange on either rear axle or transmission,
causing run-out of propeller shaft.
Coat the rollers with Universal Joint Grease and 4. WHEELS AND TIRES—A wheel, brake drum
install the rollers and balls on the trunnion pin. or tire assembly that is out of balance may cause
Pack the inside of the housing with about l¼ vibration that could be mistaken for propeller shaft
ounces of Universal Joint Grease. Install the gasket vibration. The vibration frequency of an unbal-
and grease cover. Be sure the tabs on the cover are anced propeller shaft is much higher than that of
bent over tightly. Tighten the flange bolts to 35 unbalanced wheels, the wheel unbalance being
foot pounds. similar in frequency to wheel tramp.
MyMopar.com
KNOB SWITCH
BRACKET
INSULATOR ( N O T SERVICED)
LEVER
GROMM£T —
WASHER
WASHER
OIL SEAL
WASHER
LOCKWASHER
NUT
NUT
OIL SEAL
BUSHING
HOUSING 'BOLT
WASHER
LOCKWASHER
NUT
CUP
CAGE AND ROLLERS——. ^
TUBE AND WORM
*INSULATOR, SPACER
FERRULES AND PLATE USED
ON 6 CYL. MODELS ONLY
NUT 5ÓP178
Figure 1 — Steering Gear Disassembled

MyMopar.com
243
SECTION XV
STEERING
Page
Data and Specifications 244, 262
1. Steering Gear Adjustments 243
2. Steering Wheel 244
3. Steering Gear Cross Shaft 244
4. Tube and Worm Assembly 245
5. Steering Gear and Column Jacket Assembly 247
6. Coaxial Power Steering—Operating Principles 247
7. Coaxial Power Steering—Service Procedures 250
8. Coaxial Power Steering—Pump 266
9. Diagnosis Procedure 271
1. STEERING GEAR ADJUSTMENTS

The adjustment procedure for removing back-
lash and end play from the steering gear is the
same whether the steering gear assembly is in-
stalled in the car or removed.
CROSS SHAFT ADJUSTMENT

Jack up the front end of the car until the wheels
are off the ground. Turn the wheels until they are
pointing straight ahead. Rotate steering wheel in
each direction feeling carefully for free play. ADJUSTING SCREW
Tighten the cross shaft adjusting screw clockwise
until no free play can be felt in the steering wheel.
See Figure 2. 55P1055 *ü—LUBRICANT PLUG
When properly adjusted, there should be no free Figure 2 — Steering Gear Adjustments
play when the wheels are in the straight ahead
position. Too tight an adjustment would result in
steering wander.
In making a bench test, the effort required to SHIMS
turn the steering wheel through its mid-position
should be from 1 to 2½ pounds, when measured
with pull scale at the rim of the steering wheel,
provided the worm bearing adjustment is correct.
WORM BEARING ADJUSTMENT

Shake the front wheels from side-to-side without
turning the steering wheel. There should be no
up-and-down movement of the steering wheel at
the steering column jacket. 55P1092
To decrease end-play in the worm bearings, re-
move shims as shown in Figure 3. Figure 3 — Worm Bearing Adjusting Shims
MyMopar.com
STEERING
Models P-26, P-28 P-27, P-29
Type Worm and 3 tooth roller directly conected to tie rods
Ratio 18.2 to 1
Worm Thrust Bearings Tapered roller (shim adjusted)
Cross Shaft Bushing Bronze
Steering Wheel Diameter l7½ inch
Backlash at Center Position

of Cross Shaft 0 preferred
End Play of Tube and Worm None
Steering Linkage Type Direct Tie Rod Idler Arm
Cross Shaft Nut (Pitman Arm) 120 ft. lbs.
Gear Housing to Frame 45-50 ft. lbs.
Steering Wheel Nut 40 ft. lbs.
With the cross shaft assembly removed, proper Install puller C-612 and pull the steering wheel
adjustment of the worm bearings will result in ¾ off the tube. If the horn wire has been left in the
to ¾ pounds pull on a pull scale, measured at the tube, push it down into the end of tube to avoid
rim of the steering wheel. With the cross shaft in- damage when using puller.
stalled, a pull of 1 to 2½ pounds at the rim of the
steering wheel indicates proper adjustment of the INSTALLATION
cross shaft as well as the worm bearings.
When installing the steering wheel on the tube,
A minimum of one shim is required to provide a be sure the master serrations in the steering wheel
grease seal at the housing cover. If it is necessary and the tube are properly aligned. Do not force the
to remove all the shims to obtain proper bearing steering wheel on the tube. Tighten the steering
adjustment, it will be necessary to install new wheel retaining nut to 35 to 40 foot pounds.
bearings, cups, or a worm and tube assembly.
3. STEERING GEAR CROSS SHAFT
2. STEERING WHEEL All operations necessary to be performed on
the steering gear cross shaft and bushings can be
REMOVAL accomplished without removing the steering gear
assembly.
Remove the steering wheel ornament and con-
REMOVAL
tact plate by depressing the center and rotating
it counter-clockwise until it pops up. Remove the Remove the pitman arm and the cover cap
horn ring by loosening the three retaining screws. screws. Drive the cross shaft upward with a soft
MyMopar.com
STEERING 245
Adjust the cross shaft to eliminate all backlash

at the pitman arm. Correct adjustment should re-
sult in 1 to 2½ pounds pull at the rim of the steer-
ing wheel when measured with a pull scale,
provided the worm bearing adjustment is correct.
4. TUBE AND WORM ASSEMBLY

If it is necessary to replace the tube and worm
assembly, the gear housing, worm and tube must
be removed from the car. The column jacket and
gear shift controls may be left in the car.
REMOVAL
55PfO52 Remove the cross shaft from the housing. Re-
Figure 4 — Removing Steering Arm move the lower cover and shims and then remove
the worm and tube assembly and bearings.
INSPECTION
hammer. When the roller tooth is just free of the
worm, check the shaft and bushings for wear by If the bearing surfaces or the tooth contact sur-
moving the shaft from side to side. If the shaft is faces are worn or scored, replace the worm and
loose in the bushings, remove the cross shaft tube asembly. If the bearing cups are worn or
bushings with a suitable tool. Remove the upper scored, they should be replaced. Compare the
bushing from the top and the lower bushing from worn bearings with the new bearings. If the com-
the bottom. If a bushing is driven or pressed into parison indicated they are excessively loose or
the center of the housing, the bushings will be very worn, new bearings should be installed.
difficult to remove. Avoid damaging the housing, If the upper and lower oil seals are damaged,
bores; otherwise, the fit of the new bushing will replace them. Inspect for a bent tube by rolling the
be affected. tube across a flat surface; if bent, straighten it or
replace the tube and worm assembly.
INSPECTION
A shaft that shows evidence of wear or scoring INSTALLATION
should be replaced with a new assembly. Inspect Place the upper bearing on the tube and install
fit of the roller in the shaft. The roller should have the tube and worm assembly in the housing. In-
no side play or end play. A slight drag should be stall the lower bearing and the bearing cup. Place
felt when turning the roller by hand. Inspect roller the spring and washer on the tube. Install the
teeth for evidence of galling or excessive wear. cover assembly with the necessary shims to
If the cross shaft bushings are scored, remove eliminate end play in the worm bearings. A pull
them. If the bushings are removed, inspect the of ¾ to ¾ pound at the rim of the steering wheel,
bores of the housing for burrs. indicates correct adjustment of the worm bearings
with the cross shaft removed. See page 243 for
complete procedure for adjusting worm bearings.
INSTALLATION
Be sure to install the upper seal and spring when
First remove all burrs and high spots in the installing the housing, tube and worm in the
bores of the housing before installing the bushings. steering column jacket.
After installation, burnish the bushings to remove
STEERING COLUMN GEARSHIFT CONTROL·-
any high spot. The fit between the cross shaft and
To disassemble the remote control lever, slide the
the bushings is correct if the cross shaft can be
rubber boot back, remove the hairpin clip, pin and
turned by hand without side play.
anti-rattle washer then pull the lever out. Remove
Install the oil seal in the housing. Install the the steering wheel and two screws at the top end
adjusting screw and thrust washer in the cross of the shift rod assembly. Then remove the gear-
shaft. Place masking tape over the serrations on shift control rod end nut at the lower column jacket.
the cross shaft to protect the oil seal and then in- Remove the pivot bracket from the shift rod and
stall the cross shaft in the housing. Install the pull the shifter rod assembly up through the in-
gasket, cover and the pitman arm. strument panel bracket.
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com

u
I
\ z
o
\ CO
¤L
\ u
\ \
3
\ <
Q¿
i a
>"
o >-
X
OQ
o
LU
CO
z
1—
CO <
< III
ÛL
ION
f—
o
tu
u >·
<
L·Li
>
u
K
3
< O
Ctù
a CL·
X
STEERING 247
5. STEERING GEAR AND COLUMN 6. COAXIAL POWER STEERING

JACKET ASSEMBLY OPERATING PRINCIPLES
REMOVAL
The components of the coaxial power steering
STEERING GEAR AND TUBE ASSEMBLY—Re- gear are encased in a tubular housing which is
move the steering wheel. Remove the lower half located at the bottom of, and concentrically
oí the instrument panel bracket and loosen the around, the axis of the steering column. The unit
steering column jacket clamp. Disconnect the is fastened to the steering column at the underside
pitman arm and remove the housing bolts at the of the instrument panel, and to the frame in the
frame. Hold the steering column jacket and slide conventional manner. See Figure 5.
the gear assembly out from below, leaving the
jacket and gear shift controls inside the car. Instead of the normal worm and sector to trans-
mit steering effort, the coaxial power steering unit
INSTALLATION transmits steering effort through a worm and con-
nector, and a rack and sector gear.
STEERING GEAR AND TUBE ASSEMBLY—Place
the seal and spring over the tube. Slide the as- The worm and worm connector act similar to
sembly up through the column jacket from below. the threading of a nut on a bolt; the rotation of
Install the mounting bolts, spacers, plate and the worm by the steering wheel causes up and
rubber pads at the frame. down motion of the worm connector along its axis.
To the worm connector, the following is attached
REMOVAL in the order given: upper piston rod, piston, and
COMPLETE ASSEMBLY — Disconnect the ac- lower piston rod, all of which are concentric to the
celerator linkage and remove the steering column steering column axis. Machined into the lower
hole cover. Remove the hand brake cable clip, piston rod is a rack which meshes with the sector
pitman arm and starter cable. Disconnect the gear that actuates the pitman arm to which the
shifter linkage. Then, remove the assembly from steering linkage is attached.
inside the car.
INSTALLATION NOTE
COMPLETE ASSEMBLY—Install the complete The steering linkage used with the coaxial
assembly from inside the car and assemble the power steering is the same as that used for
plate, rubber pad spacers and ferrules (if used) standard steering.
to the frame using the three bolts and nuts, but
do not tighten. Install the steering column jacket
to the instrument panel using the lower bracket. The hydraulic components of the coaxial power
Then tighten the frame mounting bolts to 45 to 50 steering consist of a double acting piston valve
ft. lbs., making certain the complete assembly is incorporated inside the piston, and a hydraulic
in alignment.
INSPECTION
Inspect the steering column jacket bushing for
wear or damage. Replace if worn or damaged.
Inspect for a bent column jacket. If bent, replace
column jacket.
NOTE
The plate, rubber pad, spacers, and ferrules

used with direct tie rod linkage on 6 cyl. models
between the steering gear and frame are not
used on 8 cyl. cars with the idler arm type
steering linkage.
The steering gear assembly on 8 cyl. cars is
bolted directly to the frame. Figure 6 — Hydraulic Piston and Spool
Valve Assembly
MyMopar.com
reaction chamber which permits the driver to As the piston valve moves, relative to the piston,
maintain the feel of the road. it regulates the oil pressure and determines the
direction of flow in the hydraulic system.
The lateral positioning of the piston valve
through movement of the steering wheel directs If the steering wheel is not turned, the valve
the oil flow to one side of the piston or the other, remains in a neutral position and the oil is free to
thus permitting the oil to move out of the opposite flow through the unit, maintaining equal low
side of the piston. In this manner hydraulic force pressures on both sides of the piston. The path
is added to the effort supplied at the steering of this oil flow is through the holes drilled in the
wheel. piston to the valve, where it divides and goes to
both ends of the valves from whence it flows
In addition to the coaxial power unit itself, the
through succeeding openings between the valve
system includes a generator driven oil pump.
and valve body until it reaches the main return
passage that is drilled through the lower piston
OPERATION rod. The oil then returns to the reservoir through
Application of pressure to the steering wheel, the filter. See Figure 7.
moves the piston valve, causing the piston to move The oil supply can divide and follow this path
and give immediate power assistance. due to a .002 inch clearance between piston and
The relative movement between the piston and valve lands when in the neutral position.
the valve seldom exceeds .0025, however, on a When the steering wheel is turned, the piston
hard turn it can move a maximum of .006 to .008 valve is moved either up or down depending on
inches. This should not be confused with actual the direction the steering wheel is rotated. The
movement of the piston, which is far greater. instant the valve is moved, the by-pass openings
O U T (LOW PRESSURE OIL)

IN NEUTRAL POSITION, THE OPENINGS BETWEEN THE VALVE
AND VALVE BODY OFFER LITTLE FLOW RESTRICTION, SO OIL
PRESSURE IS LOW. EQUAL PRESSURE ON BOTH PISTON FACES
HOLDS PISTON STATIONARY.
IN (LOW PRESSURE OIL)
SPOOL VALVE
PISTON
Figure 7 — Oil Flow—-Neutral Valve Position

MyMopar.com
STEERING 249
between the valve and valve body are proportion- Since the coaxial steering gear provides full time
ally restricted, causing the oil pressure to be built steering, it is necessary to incorporate some meth-
up by the constant displacement pump. This build- od to enable the power to maintain the feel of the
up in pressure is directed to one side of the piston road. This is done through the use of a reaction
or the other, depending on the direction of the valve, which operates as follows:
steering wheel rotation. As the pressure builds up
on one side of the piston, the piston is forced to The upper piston rod is hydraulically connected
move since the other side of the piston is open to to the worm connector through two reaction rings
the return line. See Figure 8. and a rubber reaction seal whenever the power
When the piston moves, it also causes the lower system is operated.
piston rod to move. Since the lower piston rod rack
or teeth are engaged with the pitman arm, the Oil is supplied from main line at operating pres-
pitman arm is rotated, thus causing the car to be sure. Driver's steering force passes from worm
steered in the required direction. connector to reaction ring to the oil-filled seal
which resists being squeezed because of the
When the steering wheel is turned and then pressure within it. This resistance gives the driver
held in a fixed position, the valve also remains in the "feel" of steering because operating pressure
a fixed position; thus, as the fixed position is held, is proportional to turning load.
the piston will continue to move for a very brief
instant until the relative motion between the piston The connection is termed hydraulic because the
and valve has returned them to the neutral posi- rubber seal is filled with oil that is fed to it through
tion. When in the neutral position, the pressures on the piston rod. This oil is at full operating pressure.
both sides of the piston are equalized and the front
wheels will maintain the selected direction until When the steering wheel is turned in one direc-
a greater turn or a straight ahead position is again tion or the other from neutral, movement of the
selected. connector rod pushes on the reaction rings or seal
OUT (LOW PRESSURE OIL)
f WHEN THE VALVE IS PULLED UP, IT OFFERS FLOW RESTRICTION AT

"A" AND "B". OIL PRESSURE INCREASES GREATLY, CREATING A HYDRAU-
LIC FORCE ON PISTON. AS PISTON MOVES, OIL ENTERS THE HIGH
PRESSURE CYLINDER, AND OIL IN THE LOW PRESSURE CYLINDER IS
FORCED OUT RETURN PASSAGES.
IN (HIGH PRESSURE OIL)
SPOOL VALVE
PISTON
56P24O
Figure 8 — Oil Flow—Valve Pulled Up

MyMopar.com
retainers and squeezes the oil from the oil filled When this movement takes place, pressure
seal. Because the valve is in neutral until this builds up on one side of the piston, which forces
happens, the pressure inside the reaction seal is the piston back to the neutral position in direct
low and the seal will compress to a maximum of opposition to the force of deflection, hence, the
.006 to .008 inches, allowing the worm connector front wheels will not vary from their fixed direction
and valve to move without moving the piston rod. and the driver maintains control over rough roads
As the valve is moved in relation to the valve body with a minimum of steering effort.
causing a build-up in pressure to turn the wheels,
this same pressure is also exerted on the reaction 7. COAXIAL POWER STEERING-
seal. This greater pressure exerted on the reaction SERVICE PROCEDURES
seal attempts to force the seal and the worm con-
nector back to the neutral position. GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
Cleanliness through the entire disassembly and

When driving on rough roads that tend to cause assembly cannot be over-emphasized. Unit should
the front wheels to attempt to deviate from a set be thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent when
course, the power steering holds the car on course removed from vehicle. When disassembling, each
regardless of the forces applied by the road to do part should be placed in the solvent, washed, then
otherwise. This control is maintained, since any dried by compressed air. Careful handling of parts
force acting on the wheels acts in reverse of the must be exercised to avoid the occurrence of nicks
forces applied at the steering wheel. and burrs. A very fine hone or stone may be used
to remove small nicks and burrs provided it is used
When the slightest amount of course deflection carefully. When used on valve spool, use extreme
is transmitted through the steering linkage to the care not to round off the sharp edge portion. The
hydraulic piston, the piston moves a fraction. Be- sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type
cause the driver is holding the steering wheel the of valve. Remove and discard all "O" seal rings,
valve cannot move, hence, there is a relative mo- and seals, using new ones lubricated with Lubri-
tion between the valve and piston. plate when reassembling.
OIL IS SUPPLIED FROM M A I N LINE AT OPERATING PRESSURE. DRIVER'S STEERING FORCE PASSES
FROM WORM CONNECTOR TO REACTION RING TO THE OIL-FILLED SEAL WHICH RESISTS BEING
SQUEEZED BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE WITHIN IT. THIS RESISTANCE GIVES DRIVER THE "FEEL"
OF STEERING BECAUSE OPERATING PRESSURE IS PROPORTIONAL TO TURNING LOAD.
UPPER PISTON WORM SEAL VALVE CONTROL

ROD CONNECTOR RETAINERS SPACER SEAL
OIL FROM
MAIN LINE
VALVE •~ VALVE
SPOOL' OPERATING ROD
OPERATING CLEARANCES
53x862
Figure 9 — Hydraulic Reaction Assembly

MyMopar.com
STEERING 251
MANUAL CONTROL VALVE ADJUSTMENT

(IN CAR) NOTE
When a unit has been disassembled and the
When it is difficult to rotate the steering wheel
gear shaft requires more than 40 foot-pounds
in one direction but not the other, or where the
torque to rotate it and/or where torque is un-
wheels turn of their own accord, check tire even at any point through the full travel of
pressures and front wheel alignment. With tire shaft, it probably has a cocked gear shaft
pressures equal and front wheels in alignment cover, dirt has entered the interior or the cir-
and the above conditions still exist, it is an indica- culating balls are defective or improperly in-
tion that the control valve is maladjusted. stalled.
Remove horn ring and ornament from steering

wheel. Remove steering wheel retaining nut and REMOVAL OF STEERING GEAR
remove wheel with puller C-612. Remove turn
signal lever. Remove steering column to instru- Remove the steering wheel using Tool C-612.
ment panel bracket. Then remove the steering column to instrument
bracket and shroud.
Disconnect horn and turn signal wires. Loosen
Raise front of car, then remove the steering link
steering column jacket clamp screws. from the pitman arm. Remove pitman arm to gear
Raise front of car and remove steering link from shaft with Tool C-3402. Loosen the gear housing to
pitman arm. Pull jacket from upper steering shaft frame attaching bolts. Pull the jacket from the
and remove steering shaft pin, insulator and upper steering shaft then remove the floor mat retaining
plate and rubber dust pad. Disconnect pressure
steering shaft from coupling. Remove coupling
and return hoses and drain gear assembly.
retaining screw, lockwasher and plain washer
from worm shaft. Insert manual control valve cen-
tering Tool C-3445 (slotted end first) into worm CAUTION
shaft and engage tool with tang on control valve
operating rod. Tap tool lightly to get full contact Fasten disconnected ends of hoses above oil
on rod. (Tool C-3445 can be rotated by using a level in reservoir to prevent further loss of oil
wrench.) and cap ends to prevent any foreign matter
from entering.
Two men are required to center the valve. One
man at top moves the valve as directed by another
man below whose objective is to check torque
required to move pitman arm through its travel in
both directions.
The man under the car moves pitman arm at
constant speed through travel from one extreme
to the other with torque wrench. Tool C-3005 and
1-7/16 inch socket, observing torque reading. The
torque should be the same in both directions. See
Figure 10.
Where torque is higher in one direction than in
the opposite, notify the man at top to rotate valve
adjusting Tool C-3445 slightly in the opposite di-
rection to the direction in which pitman arm has
highest torque reading.
Change valve position with Tool C-3445 in slight
variations at a time to prevent over-adjusting.
When torque reading is the same in both directions Figure 10 — Checking Torque to Adjust Manual
remove Tool C-3445. Control Valves to Neutral Position in Car
MyMopar.com
SNAP RING K5
HEAD
ROD-UPPER
" O " RING
*O" RING
OIL SEAL
RING, PISTON ROD
RETAINER,
END PLUG, .<?"
WASHER
SPRINGs
BODY. OIL SEAL
ROD-LOWER WASHER
SNAP RING
SNAP RING
SEAL
COUPLING
BEARING NUT
LOCK
CUP-INNER
J BEARING
to
CUP-OUTER m
I
BOLT n
WASHER m
SNAP
RING " O " RING 3
BEARING
CUP-OUTER
GEAR SHAFT—* BEARING
THRUST
WASHER\
ADJUSTING
SCREW—-·
" O " RING--·:
WASH€R-" ¯ O
NUT
54x584
Figure 11—Coaxial Power Steering Disassembled
MyMopar.com
STEERING 253
Remove gear housing to frame attaching bolts TOOL

and alignment wedge. Remove the steering gear
assembly from underside of the car.
COUPLING
STEERING GEAR INSTALLATION IN CAR
Install the coaxial assembly from below the car
up through the dash panel. Install housing to frame
attaching bolts, flat washers, swivel washers and
nuts but do not tighten.
Install rubber insulator in coupling. Engage
steering shaft with coupling and install pin. Slide
steering column housing down over steering shaft
and on to housing. Install turn signal lever being
sure column jacket does not restrict lever. Tighten 154x624
jacket to coaxial housing clamp. Connect turn Figure 12 — Removing Coupling (Tool C-3392)
signal and horn wires. Install steering column to
instrument panel bracket and shroud.
tion.) Place Tool C¯332O over worm shaft followed
Install steering wheel. If clearance between by C-3319. See Figure 13. Holding the worm sta-
steering column jacket and wheel is less than ¼ tionary, remove worm bearing adjusting nut,
inch, adjust steering column jacket to provide lockwasher and thrust washer. Worm bearing
proper clearance. Tighten front upper and lower adjusting nut is tapered on bearing side.
gear housing to frame attaching bolts to 20 foot Remove the worm outer bearing race and
pounds torque. Install wedge over rear bolt be- bearing roller from worm. Inspect bearing roller
tween housing and frame, tapping lightly in place. and race for wear or pitting.
Tighten three attaching bolts to 70 foot pounds
torque. Install horn ring and horn wire in steering Remove the three worm to gear housing screws
wheel. Install horn ring ornament. Connect hoses and washers, and remove worm housing. See
from steering gear to hydraulic pump. Figure 14. It may be necessary to tap housing
lightly due to interference fit with "O" ring seal
between housing head and housing. Remove inner
REMOVAL OF WORM HOUSING FROM bearing race from worm shaft and inspect for wear
GEAR HOUSING or pits.
Drain lower portion of steering gear through
pressure and return connections, by turning steer-
ing tube coupling from one extreme of travel to
the other. Using a 3/16 inch Allen wrench, remove
worm housing filler plug and drain worm (upper)
housing. Attach holding fixture C-3323 to unit and HOLD
WORM SHAFT
place in a vise. Use concave type washers when STATIONARY
mounting steering housing on Tool C-3323.
DISASSEMBLY OF WORM HOUSING
Remove tube coupling screw, lockwasher, and

washer from center of coupling. Using Tool C-3392,
remove coupling from worm shaft. See Figure 12.
Remove the worm housing oil seal with a

screwdriver from the housing and worm shaft. Use
extreme care not to damage housing when re-
moving seal. 54x626
Unlock bearing adjusting nut by bending tang Figure 13 — Removing Worm Housing
of lockwasher. (Only one tang locks nut in posi- Ad¡usting Nut
MyMopar.com
TOOL
WORM HOUSING
WORM CONNECTOR
WORM CONNECTOR NUT
TOOL
i
54x627 r WÊL· ..&W . `/¯ 54x628
Figure 14 — Removing Worm Housing Figure 16 — Removing Worm Connector Nut
VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC
VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC RETAINER- 53x811
Figure 1 7 — Valve Rod Adjusting Disc
UPPER PISTON
Figure 15 — Removing Upper and Lower ROD NUT
Bearing Cups (Tool C-3322)
Remove lower bearing roller from housing. In-

spect bearing roller and the upper and lower
bearing cups in housing. Do not remove bearing
cups unless inspection reveals it is necessary to
do so. To remove upper and lower bearing cups,
use Tool C-3322 and refer to Figure 15.
To remove the worm connector remove the
housing head "O" ring and discard. Unlock worm
connector nut lock and slide lock back sufficiently Figure 18 — Removing Upper Piston Rod Nut
to loosen worm connector nut. See Figure 16.
DISASSEMBLY OF PISTON A N D RODS

Support upper piston rod on a block of wood
Remove valve rod adjusting disc from valve rod. to help prevent damaging housing head when
See Figure 17.
removing nut. Assembly may also be supported
Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer from by wrapping several layers of masking tape
upper piston rod and remove upper piston rod nut around the rack teeth and seal surfaces of lower
lock cap. Using Tool C-3328, remove upper piston piston rod and clamping it in a vise equipped with
and rod nut. See Figure 18. protective jaws.
MyMopar.com
STEERING 255
VALVE CONTROL SPACER LOWER PISTON ROD

WORM CONNECTOR NUT OIL RETURN
HOUSING HEAD PASSAGE
SNAP RING
PISTON
TOOL
C-670
CONTROL SPACER RETAINER-
56P170
VALVE ROD'
53x813 Figure 22 — Removing Lower Piston Rod
Figure 19 — Removing Valve Control Spacer, Snap Ring
Seal Assembly and Seal Retainer
PISTON ASSEMBLY
UPPER PISTON ROD
HOUSING HEAD
53x815 VALVE ASSEMBLY
53x819
Figure 23 — Removing Valve Piston Rod

Figure 20 — Removing Housing Head
rod and slide housing head off of upper piston rod,

UPPER PISTON ROD SNAP RING
removing housing head "O" ring. See Figure 20.
Using a suitable drift, remove the upper piston
rod seal (lip type) from housing head, then remove
the two back-up (steel) and "L" type (neoprene)
piston rings from piston. See Figure 21. Latter type
piston has "D" ring seals with the steel rings
omitted.
Remove the lower piston rod snap ring (Figure
PISTON RING (STEEL)
22) and slide lower piston rod from piston.
(P26, P27 MODELS ONLY)
VALVE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL—Slide the valve
56PÌ79
assembíy from piston assembly. See Figure 23.
With a ¼ inch punch, drive the piston pin into the
Figure 21 — Removing Piston Ring (Steel) upper piston rod. See Figure 24.
Using C-760 pliers, remove the upper piston rod
Slide valve control spacer, seal assembly, upper snap ring, noting the position and construction of
and lower valve control spacer seal retainers from the snap ring. Remove upper piston rod from
upper piston rod. See Figure 19. piston. Using a wire hook, remove the piston pin
and "O" ring from piston rod. See Figure 25.
Remove spacer seal retainers from spacer and
slide seal assembly from valve control spacer. Make sure oil passage is open and inspect
Remove the worm connector nut from upper piston sealing surface on piston rod for being scored.
MyMopar.com
UPPER PISTON ROD
VALVE ROD "O" RING 53x823
Figure 26 — Removing Valve Rod "O" Ring
Figure 2 4 — Removing Piston Pin
53x824
Figure 27 — Upper Piston Rod "O" Ring
UPPER PISTON ROD
PISTON PIN ASSEMBLY piston rod. Inspect piston for nicks and burrs.
WIRE HOOK
Make sure all oil passages are open and free of
dirt.
53x822
DISASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR HOUSING
Figure 25 — Removing Piston Pin From
Upper Piston Rod Inspect steering gear shaft needle bearings in
gear housing for broken or rough needles. Do not
remove bearing unless inspection reveals it is
Remove the two small valve rod "O" rings (one in necessary to do so.
each end of upper piston rod) as shown in Figure
26. Remove the upper piston rod "O" ring. See If it is necessary to remove needle bearings use
Figure 27. puller (Tool C-3332) to pull steering gear housing
shaft needle bearings from inside gear housing.
Remove lower piston rod "O" ring. Inspect rack See Figure 29.
teeth and sealing surfaces on lower piston rod.
Make sure oil return hole is open. Remove lower piston rod seal (lip type) from
housing with Tool C-3450. See Figure 30.
REMOVAL OF RELIEF VALVE ASSEMBLY —
Thread a ¼ inch 28 NF bolt into threads provided ASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR HOUSING
in plug. Clamp bolt head in a vise and then by
Place a new piston rod seal over driver C-3395,
pulling on lower piston rod, plug can be removed.
so the lip will be facing up or to inside of cylinder
See Figure 28.
when installed. Insert seal aligning pilot of tool
Should end plug be seized in rod, a fiber hammer in end of driver and drive lower piston rod seal into
may be used to tap on retaining flange of lower position in gear housing. See Figure 31.
MyMopar.com
STEERING 257
DRIVER
RELIEF VALVE PLUG
C-3395
PISTON ROD SEAL
ALIGNING PILOT
54x636
Figure 28 — Removing Lower Piston Rod Figure 31 —Installing Lower Piston Rod Seal
Relief Valve Plug With Tool C-3395
PISTON ROD
SUPPORT
BUSHING
55P1298
54x640
Figure 32 — Piston Rod Support Bushing Installed

Figure 29 — Removing Gear Shaft Bearing
With Tool C-3332
Using driver C-3395 install housing shaft needle
bearing assemblies into gear housing until bear-
ings bottom in bores (if removed). Always drive on
letter side of bearing, otherwise damage to bearing
may result.
Install piston rod support bushing into housing
making sure bushing is properly seated over
dowel. See Figure 32.
ASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND RODS
Insert relief valve spring followed by plunger

into valve body, then insert assembly (milled end
first) into lower piston rod. Press end plug into
lower rod sufficiently to seat against the relief
55P1299
valve body.
Figure 30 — Removing Lower Piston Rod Seal Remove all burrs from around the end plug with
With Tool C-3450 a sharp instrument. Lubricate the two valve rod
MyMopar.com
RING
"°" 53x830
Figure 33 — Installing Valve Rod "O" Ring 53x833
Figure 35 — Installing Piston Pin
PISTON PIN HOLES
PISTON
PISTON
VALVE ROD
VALVE AND VALVE ROD 53x831
53x832 `` UPPER PISTON ROD
Figure 34 — Installing Valve Assembly
Figure 36 — Installing Upper Piston Rod
CAUTION C-760 pliers, install snap ring, as shown in Figure

22.
A suitable adaptor will be required to press
end plug in lower piston rod into place, other' When installing snap ring, minimum gap open-
wise, damage to rod will result. If plug is not ing of 25/64 inch is specified. Care should be
pressed in far enough to properly seat against exercised to locate the gap at the middle port or
the valve body, it will produce a rattling or adjacent ports with the snap ring ends. Make sure
clattering sound when hydraulic pressure is snap ring is seated properly.
applied. If the plug is pressed in too tightly, it VALVE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION—Lubricate
will cause the relief parts in the valve body to valve assembly with Lubriplate and slide into
collapse, restricting the plunger, creating high position. See Figure 34.
back pressure resulting in lack of steering
assistance. Using care not to damage the "O" rings, slide
upper piston rod over the valve rod, aligning the
piston pin hole in the piston assembly with the hole
"O" rings with Lubriplate and install one in each in the upper piston rod. See Figure 36.
end of upper piston rod. See Figure 33. Lubricate Lubricate piston pin "O" ring with Lubriplate
the two large "O" rings with Lubriplate and install and install on piston pin. See Figure 35.
one on each upper and lower piston rod. See Fig-
ure 27. Make sure they seat properly in the ring With the piston pin holes aligned in both the
grooves. piston and upper piston rod, position piston pin
(tapered end first) in position. Use a ¼ inch punch
Install lower piston rod (with rack) into end of and hammer, tap lightly until piston pin is flush
piston assembly opposite piston pin hole and using with or slightly below bottom of piston ring groove,
MyMopar.com
STEERING 259
CONNECTOR NUT-
TOOL
VALVE CONTROL SPACER RETAINER'
C-3395 53x835
HOUSING HEAD
Figure 38 — Installing Lower Valve Control
Spacer Retainer
55P1301
Figure 37 — Installing Upper Piston Rod Seal

With Tool C-3395
as shown in Figure 41. If piston pin is too high in

groove, piston ring will not properly seal, which
will cause unequal pressure when valve is cen- TOOL
tered in piston. C-3393
Using C-760 pliers, install the upper piston rod

snap ring. Use the same precautions and specifi-
cations as previously used in positioning the lower Figure 39 Installing Valve Control Spacer
piston rod snap ring. With Tool C-3393
Place a new upper piston rod seal on driver
C-3395, (lip of seal facing tool). Insert seal aligning
Slide one of the valve control spacer retainers
pilot of tool in end of driver and drive upper piston
(large diameter first) on upper piston rod. Lubricate
rod seal (lip of seal out) into position in housing
head. See Figure 37. Lubricate seal with Lubri¯ with Lubriplate. See Figure 38.
plate. Install housing head assembly (sealing lip Place Tool C-3393 over threaded end of upper
first) onto upper piston rod. piston rod.
Slide the connector nut onto the upper piston Lubricate the other valve control spacer retainer
rod with open threaded end away from piston. with Lubriplate and place into position (small
Lubricate the valve control spacer seal with Lubri- diameter first) so it nests in valve control spacer.
plate and install in center of valve control spacer. Slide spacer, seal and retainer over Tool C-3393
and into position of piston rod, then remove tool.
See Figure 39.
CAUTION Install upper piston rod nut and using C-3328,
Should it be necessary to replace the valve
tighten 25 to 30 foot-pounds. Lock in place using
control spacer or upper piston rod for any
piston rod nut lock by tapping outer diameter of
reason, always select a spacer to match. The
lock into nut recess. See Figure 40.
length of the valve control spacer selected Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer (largest
must be identical to the distance between the diameter first) over end of upper piston rod. Thread
seat of the valve control spacer seal retainer valve rod disc (extended lock thread section being
and seated upper piston rod nut. outward) onto valve rod until approximately three
threads show for aid in later adjustment.
MyMopar.com
-STEEL RINGS ,
`L`` TYPE R I N G S ¯¯¯¯ ¯~TX>,
(P-26, P 2 7 ONLY) J wL·
.)" TYPE RINGS
5óPÌ8O
53x837
Figure 41—Installing Piston Rings
Figure 40 — Locking Upper Piston Rod
Nut Lock Cap
Insert assembly into holes until it seats on worm
connector. Place ball guide clamp into position on
Place lock ring on worm connector (tang of ring ball guide and install the two lock-washers and
toward threaded end). screws, tighten from 10 to 12 foot-pounds.
ASSEMBLY OF WORM CONNECTOR Check the operation of worm making sure it is
free to oscillate. Caution should be exercised not
WORM CONNECTOR BALL INSTALLATION— to bottom worm in the outward direction, otherwise
Insert worm into connector and visually align the damage to the ball return guide may result and
upper portion of the passages with the ball guide cause a rough or tight operating worm.
holes.
WORM CONNECTOR INSTALLATION — Slide
the worm connector and worm shaft assembly over
CAUTION control spacer and screw worm connector nut on
to connector. Hold worm connector with Tool
The balls which are used in the worm con-
C-3321, then using Tool C-3326, tighten nut. Stake
nector are a select fit with each other. If any
ring with punch.
of them become lost or damaged, it is recom-
mended that a complete set (40) be installed.
Balls which fit tight will result in increased and PISTON RING INSTALLATION
erratic steering effort and also lack of return- PISTON RING INSTALLATION — Lubricate the
ability. Balls which fit too loose will result in two (neoprene) piston rings with Lubriplate and
free play of the steering wheel before valve install on piston. To aid in installation of rings, first
actuation or steering is accomplished. slide rings over ring lands and to center of piston
with lips facing away from each other. Next, slide
rings into position in ring lands. Install back-up
Insert thirty worm balls into lower hole by tap- (steel) rings, if used, one on each end of the piston,
ping them in gently (use the rubber end of a lead in extreme position from the center of the piston.
pencil or similar object) and slightly oscillating the See Figure 41.
worm. When the thirty have been inserted, they
should be visible in the other hole. PISTON AND ROD INSTALLATION
Place the remaining worm balls (10) in either PISTON AND ROD INSTALLATION INTO GEAR
half of the worm connector ball guide. Grease end HOUSING—Lubricate lower piston rod, teeth of
balls to help hold them in place and add other half rack and Tool C-3435 with Lubriplate, then posi-
of ball guide assembly. tion tool in teeth of rack.
MyMopar.com
STEERING 261
ROTATE
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE
TOOL C-3435
TOOL C-3434
55P13O3
Figure 42 — Installing Piston and Rod Assembly 55P1304
Figure 43 — Adjusting Worm Housing

Lubricate large "O"ringwith Lubriplate and in- Bearings (Inner)
stall on the side of housing head that faces piston
assembly.
Place ring compressing Tool C-3434 on gear Lubricate worm connector guide rails with Lubri-
housing. Position piston and rod assembly so the plate. Lubricate upper housing head "O" ring with
teeth on rack are 180 degrees from bushing support Lubriplate and install on housing head pilot
and install into gear housing. See Figure 42. opposite piston side.
Drop inner bearing into housing and hold into
CAUTION place, pilot worm housing over rails on worm con-
nector (ball guide down) until it is flush with gear
Use extreme care when performing this
housing.
operation so not to damage gear housing oil
seal or piston rings. Do not use a screwdriver
to compress piston rings. To further aid in lu-
brication, piston and cylinder may be lubri- CAUTION
cated with Lubriplate. If the rack is not posi- Worm housing cannot be installed if bearing
tioned properly when it is installed, it may be is installed on worm shaft prior to installing
corrected by rotating the lower piston rod with housing.
a screwdriver through opening in end of gear
housing.
Install the three screws and washers, draw down

evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. Lubri-
Remove ring compressing Tool C-3434. Remove cate worm outer bearing roller with Lubriplate
Tool C-3435 from teeth of rack through opening in
and install in bearing cup. Position race in bearing.
gear housing.
Slide thrust washer over worm and against
WORM HOUSING INSTALLATION outer bearing race and follow with worm bearing
WORM HOUSING BEARING—If bearing cups nut lockwasher. Turn worm shaft out until lower
were removed from worm housing during disas- race seats in bearing.
sembly, then refer to (Figure 15) and proceed as
follows: WORM HOUSING BEARING ADJUSTMENT—
Install worm housing bearing adjusting nut (ta-
Using Tool C-3322, install worm housing upper pered end first). Place Tool C-3320 over worm shaft
bearing cup (wide section of cup first) into worm followed by Tool C-3319. Then using direction (Fig-
housing. Make sure cup seats properly in housing. ure 43) to 20 foot-pounds against inner bearing,
Lubricate worm housing inner bearing race and use Tool C-3320 with another torque wrench and
slide (wide section of cone first) over threaded end tighten adjusting nut (Figure 44) clockwise to 15
of worm until it seats. foot-pounds. Rotate worm shaft several turns to
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING
Capacity of Hydraulic System 3½ pts.
Capacity of Worm Housing 10
Type of Fluid Type "A" Automatic

Trans. Fluid
Maximum Pump Pressure (psi) 750 to 800
Maximum Fluid Flow at 3000 rpm 2 gal/min.
o Between Rotor Lobes .008 inch
Between Outer Rotor and Bushing .006 inch
End Clearance (Between Rotors and Face of Body) .001 to .002 inch
Free Length 2.13 inch
h
I*
Working Length
Pressure at Working Length

1.20 inch
14 + l½ lbs.
Free Length 1.51 inch

I
Working Length 1.18 inch
Force at Working Length 30 to 33 lbs.
Steering Gear Ratio 16.3 to 1
Piston Rod Snap Ring Cap 25/64 inch
INCH POUNDS
WRENCH
TIGHTEN
CLOCK-WISE
54x643
54x644
Figure 44 — Adjusting Worm Housing Figure 45 — Final Worm Housing Bearing

Bearings (Outer) Adjustment
MyMopar.com
STEERING 263
GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW

GEAR SHAFT
THRUST WASHER
" O " RING
WASHER-
TOOL C-3401
ADJUSTING SCREW-
LOCK RIN<
54x631
Figure 46 — Installing Gear Shaft Adjusting Figure 4 7 — Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw
Screw "O" Ring Assembly
insure proper seating of bearings. Next, loosen

adjusting nut and again using Tool C¯33I9 with
torque wrench, hold worm shaft at 5 foot-pounds
counter-clockwise direction against inner bearing
and retighten adjusting nut clockwise to five inch-
pounds (Figure 45). Lock adjusting nut in position
by bending tang of lockwasher to index with slot
in the nut. Note only one tang is needed to lock
adjusting nut.
CAUTION
Too loose adjustment will result in free play 54x645
before steering is accomplished. Too tight an
adjustment will result in sticky valve action Figure 48 — Centering of Rack
and lack of unit to return.
Screw shaft adjusting screw with gear attached

Install worm housing oil seal by lightly tapping into the gear shaft cover assembly as far as pos-
with plastic or rubber hammer until seal is seated sible. Position center groove (third from either end)
in housing. of the rack over center line of the gear shaft cover
opening in gear housing. See Figure 48.
GEAR SHAFT INSTALLATION
Lubricate a new gear shaft cover "O" ring with
Lubriplate and position it in groove on cover. Posi-
Install thrust washer on gear shaft adjusting tion the middle tooth of the gear shaft with the third
screw and position Tool C-3401 over thread of tooth groove from the (either) end of rack. Insert
screw. gear shaft assembly with cover attached into gear
Lubricate gear shaft adjusting screw "O" ring housing, tap lightly into position. See Figure 49.
with Lubriplate and slide over tool and into posi- Use a ½ inch wooden or fiber drift and hammer
tion on adjusting screw. See Figure 46. Remove to drive cover in place. Using Tool C-760 install
tool and insert adjusting screw thrust washer into gear shaft cover snap ring into groove, with the
gear end of steering gear shaft. tapered side of snap ring away from cover.
Insert adjusting screw assembly into gear shaft Lubricate gear housing end cover "O" ring with
and lock in position by installing internal snap Lubriplate and install on housing cover. Push
ring. Use C-3229 pliers and make sure snap ring assembly (Seal end first) into housing and install
is properly seated. snap ring, using (Tool C-760).
MyMopar.com
Foot Pounds
Pump Body to Cover Bolts 15 to 20
Pump Reservoir to Pump Body Bolts 12 to 17
Pump Mounting Bolts 18 to 23
Pump Reservoir Mounting Stud 30 to 35
Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts (Brake Anchor Nuts) 55 to 75
Steering Gear Arm (Pitman) to Shaft Nut 100 to 125
Steering Gear Assembly to Frame 40 to 50
Steering Wheel to Steering Shaft Nut 35 to 40
Shroud to Instrument Panel Screws 15 to 20
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts 10 to 15
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts 45 to 75
Pump Coupling Attaching Screw 15 to 20
Pump Flow Control And Relief Valve Adaptor (Retaining) 45 to 50
Pump Coupling Flange Attaching Screw 10 to 12
Upper Piston Rod Nut 25 to 30
Gear Shaft Cover Bolts 25 to 30
Ball Guide Clamp Bolt 10 to 12
Worm Housing to Gear Housing Bolt 25 to 30
Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Lock Nut 35 to 40
INSTALLATION OF GEAR SHAFT OIL SEAL Install this assembly (lip of seal toward housing)
over steering gear shaft until seal contacts counter-
Before attempting to install a new seal, thor- bore in housing. Push seal into position by install-
oughly clean the sealing surfaces on the gear shaft ing adaptor over sleeve, and installing coupling
and counterbore of steering gear housing cover. nut on shaft threads until shoulder of adaptor con-
Lubricate a new steering gear shaft oil seal with tacts housing. See Figure 50. Remove nut and
Lubriplate and place (lip of seal down) on a piece adaptor. Wrap a new piece of friction tape around
of clean paper. sleeve to provide a firm grip and with a turning
motion, remove sleeve from seal and gear shaft.
Carefully install tapered end of sleeve (part of See Figure 51. Seal is then positioned properly.
Tool C¯335O) in seal and slide seal back approxi-
mately ¼ inch on sleeve. Install oil seal lock ring (circular section) make
MyMopar.com
STEERING 265
sure it is properly seated. Install gear shaft adjust-

ing screw lock nut, but do not tighten.
GEÄRSHAFT ADJUSTMENT — Secure Pitman
arm from stock or remove the one from vehicle.
Install Pitman arm, lockwasher and nut, tighten
nut from 100 to 120 foot-pounds. Work arm back
and forth forcing the piston to its full length of
travel, adjust gear into a backlash condition then
tighten lock nut.
NOTE MESH CENTER TOOTH

WITH THE CENTER
This adjustment necessary before adjusting OF RACK TEETH
manual control valve to neutral position and 54x646
is not a final adjustment.
Figure 49 — Mesh Gearshaft to Rack
Filling worm housing is very important since

there is no hydraulic connection between the worm
and gear housing. Add 10 ounces of Automatic
Transmission Fluid Type "A" to the worm housing
through the worm housing filler hole. Keep gear
assembly in a level position to facilitate filling.
Install worm housing oil filler plug and tighten to
equivalent of 50 inch-pounds.
ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING GEAR
MANUAL CONTROL VALVE ADJUSTMENT—

Connect test hoses to hydraulic pump on car and
to steering assembly. Remove oil reservoir cover.
Start engine and operate at idle. Fill reservoir to
level mark and allow system to warm up. 55P1306
Oil level must be maintained above filter while

hydraulically centering valve. Figure 50 -— Installing Gearshaft Oil Seal
with Tool C-3350
Insert manual control valve centering Tool
C-3445 (slotted end first) into worm shaft and
engage slot in tool with tang on control valve oper-
ating rod. (Tool C-3445 can be rotated by using a
tap wrench.)
If Pitman arm moves to one extreme or the other
and stays there, rotate Tool C-3445 until the arm
will stay wherever it is placed.
Install a 1-7/16 inch socket on a torque wrench
and place on Pitman arm retaining nut. Rotate
gear shaft in both directions from one extreme of
travel to the other. The torque required to move the
shaft should be the same in both directions. Where
torque is higher in one direction than in the oppo-
site, rotate the valve adjusting tool C-3445 to
correct. 54x648
INSTALLATION OF COUPLING—The steering

tube coupling must be installed with the slot in the Figure 51 —· Removing Sleeve (Part of Tool C-3350)
coupling in the vertical plane. There are no master with Friction Tape
MyMopar.com
—TEE HANDLE On Power Steering Units built before May 1955,

_-TOOL check the steering for being properly centered by
turning the coupling in each direction from the
center. Pitman arm backlash should become evi-
dent equal distances in both directions when turn-
ing from center. It may be necessary to reposition
the coupling to obtain equal travel in both direc-
tions, in which case it will be necessary to readjust
Pitman arm backlash.
‰' S TORQUE WRENCH

CAUTION
\.I An adjustment that is too hose will result

in free play and a noisy gear. Where adjust'
ment is too tight, the ability of steering to
recover will be affected and gear teeth will be
worn excessively.
Figure 52 — Adjusting Manual Control Valve

to Neutral Position
Adjust oil pump to level and install cover. Re-
move test hoses and install cap ends.
serrations on either the worm shaft or the coupling.

A mark is scribed on the coupling and this mark 8. COAXIAL POWER STEERING PUMP
should be set at 12 o'clock when the steering gear
worm shaft is at the center of its no backlash PRESSURE CHECKS
travel, so that the steering tube master serration
will be in position to allow for proper installation BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM—With front
of steering wheel. To position the gear shaft start wheels off of floor, turn coupling completely to the
the engine and allow steering system to warm up. left then to the right exerting pressure at the end
of each turn. Repeat this operation then system is
In order to find center position, turn the worm properly bled.
shaft from one extreme of its travel to the opposite
extreme and count the total number of turns, which Should the lack of steering assistance be en-
should be approximately 3¾ turns. Divide the countered and other checks have been made (refer
total number of turns in half. Example: 3¾ × ½ = to Service Diagnosis Chart), a pressure check
1%. should be made as follows to determine if pump is
at fault.
GEÄRSHAFT ADJUSTMENT — Adjust the gear- Connect gauge C-3309 in the pressure line be-
shaft with the worm shaft in the straight ahead tween pump and hose with the shut-off valve on
position, back off the adjusting screw in the gear- the gauge in the open position, start the engine
shaft cover until backlash becomes evident at the and turn the steering wheel. If the gauge does not
Pitman arm. Tighten the adjusting screw until zero show at least 750 to 800 pounds pressure at idle
backlash is obtained, and then tighten ¾ of a turn with 900 p.s,i. max. at 1500 R.P.M. when the steer-
more to properly preload the gear teeth. ing wheel is in straightahead position, check the
Early built 1955 Power Steering Units used a pump by turning the shut-off valve of the gauge
gear rack with a wide center tooth which requires C-3309 to its closed position. If the pressure does
careful centering. On Power Steering units built not gradually increase as the valve is closed, the
with rack teeth all of the same width, backlash will flow control valve in the pump may be stuck in
be zero throughout the entire range of turning. open position, or the drive coupling may be broken.
If 750 pounds pressure does show on gauge with
the engine idling, the pump is in good condition,
Power Steering Unit building dates are steel look for trouble under service diagnosis. Remove
stamped on the lower flange of the worm housing. gauge and connect high pressure hose to pump.
MyMopar.com
STEERING 267
ADJUSTING BOLTS FOR

NOTE RESERVOIR OIL LEVEL
X
If the gauge is not available, a fairly ac-
curate way of making the test is as follows:
Start the engine and turn the wheel to both
extreme positions. If the high pressure hose
flexes, the pump is in good condition. If the
high pressure hose does not flex, lack of pres-
sure from the pump is indicated. Shut off the
engine and check the pump as described below.
Remove cover from reservoir, start the engine

and turn the steering wheel. If oil flows through the
filter, a stuck flow control valve plunger is indi-
cated. Shut off engine. Remove the high pressure Figure 53 — Leveling Oil Pump Reservoir
hose at the pump fitting and insert a 1/4 inch clean,
blunt probe against valve plunger. If the plunger
moves inward 3/16 to 1/4 inch, the plunger was position on back of generator, using care to index
stuck and will probably function correctly the next coupling. Install the pump to generator mounting
time. bolts, lockwashers and washer. Draw down evenly
and tighten from 12 to 17 foot-pounds. Connect the
Recheck pressure, and if it still registers less pressure and return hoses to pump and tighten.
than 750 pounds on gauge and if oil flows through Adjust reservoir oil level by loosening the mount-
filter but still does not flex the pressure line, re- ing bolts and rotating (Figure 53) the pump until
move the flow control valve plunger and clean oil level covers filter. Add oil if highest part of
thoroughly. If this does not correct the condition, filter is not covered with oil.
install a new pump assembly.
If oil does not flow through the reservoir filter DISASSEMBLY
in the above test, a broken coupling is indicated. Remove clamp that retains cover on reservoir,
Remove pump from generator. If either coupling then remove cover. Remove the relief valve that
is broken turn the pump shaft by hand at least ten retains the filter element in reservoir. Lift filter
revolutions. If the shaft turns freely, install new element out and drain oil from reservoir. Remove
couplings on both the pump and generator shafts.
the two pump attaching screws and lockwasher,
If the pump shaft binds when turned by hand, re-
unscrew the filter element standpipe and separate
place both the pump and couplings. If the genera-
reservoir from pump.
tor armature shaft is damaged, replace necessary
parts.
NOTE
PUMP REMOVAL
There are four rubber "O" seal rings between
Disconnect the pressure and return hoses from
pump assembly. Loss of oil will be noted when the reservoir and pump body.
hoses are removed, keep both hose ends up to
prevent further loss of oil. Ends of hose should be
covered or capped to prevent the entrance of for- Using holding Tool C-3227, remove coupling
eign matter. locking screw, lockwasher and coupling.
Remove the pump to generator mounting screws

and lockwashers. Remove pump and reservoir CAUTION
assembly from generator. Remove the rubber
coupling. The locking screw is of a special type and
should not be replaced with any other type.
INSTALLATION
Place the rubber insulator into position in pump Place pump body in a vise equipped with pro-
assembly. Place pump and reservoir assembly in tective jaws and remove the five body to cover
MyMopar.com
COVER
VALVE
SPRING
ADAPTER
OIL SEAL
FLANGE
WASHER > ¾i
3
\?V
/ *
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
" SCREW
AND
WASHER
FLANGE 56P\77
COUPLING
Figure 54 — Coaxial Power Steering Pump — Disassembled
MyMopar.com
STEERING 269
TOOL
C-3233
Figure 56 — Removing Figure 57 — Installing

Pump Cover Bushing Pump Cover Bushing
52x699 Using Tool C-3185 with Tool C-3233
Figure 55 — Disassembly of Pressure Relief and

Flow Control Valve Using Tool C-3229
into bushing with outer section of tool, as shown in
attaching bolts. Remove cover and "O" seal ring. Figure 56.
Remove outer pump rotor by inverting and tapping When tool has been threaded into bushing suffi-
pump body on wooden block. Remove pump shaft ciently, screw "T" handle section of tool into cover
and inner rotor from pump body. Remove inner until it bottoms and continue turning to remove
pump rotor from pump shaft by removing the rear bushing. Install bushing with Tool C-3233, as
circular section snap ring and sliding rotor and shown in Figure 57.
drive key off shaft.
To remove the combination flow control and
PUMP BODY BUSHINGS
relief valve in pump cover, remove the l¼ inch
hexagon fitting and circular section rubber "O" Place pump body in a vise equipped with pro-
ring. Lift out flow control valve spring. Tap cover tective jaws. Place pump cover on pump body and
on wooden block to remove the flow control and install attaching bolts. Install Tool C-3185 in cover
relief valve combination. To remove pressure relief bushing hole, thread tool into housing bushing
valve and spring from flow control valve body, and remove bushing and seal. Always use new
use Tool C-3229 to remove the internal snap ring, seal when bushing is replaced. Place bushing on
refer to Figure 55. Tool C-3233. Start bushing squarely and drive into
place.
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow OUTER ROTOR BUSHING
dry with cleanfilteredcompressed air. Inspect the
babbitt pump rotor bushing in pump body for wear Thread Tool C-3214 into pump body (cover re-
or scoring. Inspect bronze pump shaft and thrust moved) using adaptor Tool C-3234 and remove
bearings in cover and pump body. Inspect pump bushing, refer to Figure 58. Clean all parts thor-
rotors and shaft for scoring and wear. Position oughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with
rotor and shaft in pump body. Using a straight compressed air. When installing bushing start
edge and feeler gauge, check the end clearance. squarely, then using Tool C-3251, drive into place,
The specified limits are .001 inch to .002 inch. In- as shown in Figure 59.
spect the pressure relief valve and the flow divider
plunger for scoring, replace if necessary.
PUMP SHAFT OIL SEAL
PUMP COVER BUSHING Reposition pump body in vise. Place seal on
Place pump cover in a vise equipped with pro- Tool C-3230, refer to Figure 60. Drive seal into posi-
tective jaws, install Tool C-3185 and tap threads tion in pump body.
MyMopar.com
_TOOL
C-3214 TOOL
C-3230
OIL SEAL
BUSHING
TOOL
C-3234
ssf>mo
`·55PI3I2
Figure 58 — Removing Babbitt Bushing from Body
Figure 60 — Installing Pump Shaft Oil Seal
—Using Tool C-3214 and C-3234
with Tool C-3230
install snap ring. Install shaft protector thimble

C-3228 in pump body until it bottoms.(Figure 61).
Using care not to damage the babbitt bushings
when installing rotor, insert rotor and shaft assem-
TOOL bly with coupling end first into pump body. Insert
outer rotor into pump body. Coat the "O" seal ring
with Lubriplate and position on pump body. Place
cover in position on pump body and install the
attaching bolts and lockwashers. Tighten from 15
to 20 foot-pounds. Tap coupling flange on pump
shaft until it bottoms and install special square
washer, screw and lockwasher. Using Tool C-3227
to hold coupling, as shown in Figure 62, tighten
screw from 10 to 12 foot-pounds.
To attach reservoir to pump, coat the "O" seal
rings with Lubriplate. Install the two large and two
small "O" rings on the reservoir mounting surface
of pump. Place reservoir on pump, install filter
Figure 59 — Installing Babbitt Bushing in Body
—Using Tool C-3251
ASSEMBLY OF PUMP
Lubricate all moving parts with clean SAE 10W

engine oil. Coat "O" seal rings with Lubriplate.
Reassemble combination flow control and relief
valve by inserting spring and relief valve with
small end first. Compress valve and spring and
install snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats prop-
erly. Install the combination of flow control and TOOL
relief valve assembly into pump body with the C-3228
narrower land first. Insert spring, gasket and 55P1313
adaptor. Tighten adaptor from 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Figure 61 — Installing Pump Shaft Oil Seal
Install inner pump rotor and drive key on shaft and Thimble using Tool C-3228
MyMopar.com
STEERING 271
wheels and repeat the test. If the roughness

diminishes, it indicates worn or damaged thrust
bearings.
3. TIE ROD ENDS—Lubricate the rod ends and
check alignment. The sockets should rotate freely
on the ball studs. The tie rod end sockets on the
same tie rod should be parallel with each other.
If one socket is level and one is at an angle, a
TOOL
C-3227
binding action may occur on extreme turns.
4. CROSS SHAFT—Turn the steering wheel
from right to left through the center position. If
binding is evident at the center position, the cross
shaft adjustment is too tight. Raise the front wheels
55P1314
and repeat the test. If binding is no longer evident,
Figure 62 — Tightening Coupling Screw the cross shaft roller tooth may be binding on the
with Tool C-3227 pin. The roller tooth should be free enough to turn
with the fingers. If binding is evident with or with-
out the weight of the car on the front wheels, the
standpipe stud and two reservoir to pump attach- cross shaft bushings may be scored.
ing screws. Tighten screws from 12 to 17 foot-
5. WORM AND TUBE ASSEMBLY—Inspect for
pounds. Install filter seat on standpipe with seating
binding near the extreme right or left position of
surface below the standpipe pilot. Install filter ele-
the steering wheel. If binding is evident, the bear-
ment and tighten filter retaining screw assembly
until it seats on the screw shoulder. ings are damaged, or are adjusted too tightly. In-
spect the tube by turning the steering wheel from
the extremerightto the extreme left. If intermittent
drag is felt the tube may be bent.
CAUTION
Install cover to keep dirt out of pump until 6. JACKET AND JACKET BUSHING—Loosen the
after it has been installed on generator. instrument panel bracket and check the free posi-
tion of the steering column. If the jacket does not
line up with the center of the bracket, binding may
occur. Turn the steering wheel from left toright.If
9. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES drag is evident, the jacket bushing may be scored
or too tight.
CARS WITH STANDARD STEERING
HARD STEERING
LOOSE STEERING
Hard steering is usually due to binding in the
steering assembly and may be accompanied by If any part of the steering system is unusually
wander. Before testing for this condition, make loose, wander, excessive road shock, or wheel
sure the tires are inflated to the recommended shimmy may result. To determine where exces-
pressure and the front wheel alignment is correct. sive looseness exists, remove the Pitman arm from
Test steering action with the weight of the car on the cross shaft and make the following tests:
the front wheels and the front wheels on turntables.
If hard steering is evident, inspect the following: J. STEERING KNUCKLE BUSHINGS—Check for
looseness by shaking the front wheels in-and-out,
1. STEERING KNUCKLE BUSHINGS—First, take with the wheels raised and the wheel bearings
the weight of the car off the front wheels and lubri- properly tightened.
cate the king pin bushings. The wheels should turn
easily from right to left with hand pressure. If the 2. TIE ROD ENDS—To test for looseness, check
wheels do not turn freely, the bushings may be too for end play in the tie rods with the weight of the
tight or scored. car on the wheels.
2. STEERING KNUCKLE THRUST BEARINGS— 3. CROSS SHAFT—Check for backlash at the
Place the thumb on the bearings and turn the center position of the Pitman arm. Inspect for side
wheels fromrightto left, with the weight of the car play in the cross shaft. See "Steering Gear Adjust-
on the wheels. If roughness is felt, raise the front ments" on Page 243.
MyMopar.com
4. WORM AND TUBE—To check for end ploy at 4. WHEEL ALIGNMENT—Improper wheel
the upper end of the tube, move the Pitman arm alignment.
back and forth without turning the steering wheel.
There should be no up-and-down movement of the SELF STEERING
steering wheel at the steering column jacket. 1. TIRE PRESSURE—Tire pressure uneven.
5. JACKET BUSHING—To determine if the jack- 2. CONTROL VALVE — Improperly adjusted
et bushing is loose or worn, check for side play in control valve.
the tube at the upper end by moving the steering
wheel from side to side.
POOR RECOVERY ON TURNS
6. STEERING WHEEL·-Check the position of the
steering wheel. The spokes should be equally 1. TIRE PRESSURE—Pressure too low.
spaced when the front wheels are in the straight- 2. WORM CONNECTOR—Bà\]s in worm con-
ahead position. nector fit too tight.
3. GEAR SHAFT—Adjustment too tight.
POWER STEERING EQUIPPED CARS
4. STEERING COLUMN—Bind in either steering
HARD STEERING IN BOTH DIRECTIONS gear or column.
1. FAN BELT—A loose fan belt will cause erratic 5. WHEEL ALIGNMENT—Improper front end
power steering operation. alignment.
2. FLUID LEVEL—Lack of sufficient fluid in res- 6. WORM BEARING—Adjusted too tight.

ervoir will cause intermittent surges of power 7. STEERING KNUCKLES—Checkfitof steering
assistance. Fill reservoir to recommended level knuckles on king pin.
and inspect for possible leaks.
3. STEERING GEAR AND LINKAGE—Lack of IMPROPER TURNING RADIUS
steering gear and linkage lubrication will cause
Wheel stops not adjusted properly.
binding and result in hard steering.
4. TIRE PRESSURE—Low tire pressure on both OIL LEAKAGE
front wheels will increase steering effort.
Oil Pump, Hoses and Power Unit—Check for oil
5. OIL PUMP PRESSURE—Low pump pressure leakage at the pump body, hose connections, be-
could be caused by sticking relief and flow control tween gear and worm housings and gear shaft oil
valve—weak or broken relief or control valve seal.
spring—rotors not turning or rotors worn—worn
pump body or cover.
NOISE
6. POWER UNIT PRESSURE—Loss of pressure
in the power unit may be caused by oil leakage 1. FAN BELT—Improper fan belt adjustment.
past the piston rings or an internal seal or "O" ring 2. FLUID LEVEL—Check fluid level and refill if
leak within the unit. necessary. Inspect oil pump, hoses and power
7. STEERING COLUMN—A bind in either the unit for leakage.
steering gear or column will cause hard steering. 3. OIL PUMP BEARING—Pump shaft bearing
worn.
HARD STEERING IN ONE DIRECTION 4. OIL PUMP BUSHINGS—Bushings worn in
1. TIRE PRESSURE—Unequal or too low tire pump body or cover.
pressure in front wheels may cause hard steering 5. BACK PRESSURE VALVE—Fluttering noise
in one direction. may be due to a loose back pressure valve.
2. CONTROL VALVE—Improperly adjusted 6. HOSES—Hoses should not have any kinks or
control valve. sharp bends which would cause a restriction in
3. STEERING COLUMN—Bind in steering col- the oil passage.
umn or gear. 7. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM—Improperly bled.
MyMopar.com
273
SECTION XVI
FRAME, REAR SPRINGS,

SHOCK ABSORBERS
Page
1. Frame 273
2. Rear Springs 275
3. Rear Spring Interliners 277
4. Shock Absorbers 277
5. Sway Eliminator 278
1. FRAME points on each side of the frame. Diagonal measur-

ing will determine which section of the frame is
The dimensions shown in Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5 bent and where force should be applied to restore
are the distances between the indicated points as correct alignment.
measured with a steel tape. Frame measurements
on cars should be taken from the radiator support CHECKING FRAME ALIGNMENT
bracket holes.
To check the frame for alignment, measure the
Measuring from these points is the most accu- distance between the points connected by line
rate way of showing the true relationship of the "A." Compare this measurement with the distance
various frame parts. between the points connected by line "B." See
Figure 1. Compare all corresponding diagonals in
Diagonal measurements can be taken to check
this manner. The distance between the points con-
the squareness of the frame. See Figure 1. If the
nected by any two corresponding diagonals should
frame brackets are bent, these measurements may
be within ¼ inch.
be taken from corresponding points on the frame
side rails and cross members. Any two diagonals With the body removed, diagonals may be
compared must represent exactly corresponding measured with a steel tape. Measurements may
55P1044
Figure 1 — Diagonal Measurements

MyMopar.com
U STANDARD TRANSMISSION
POWERFUTE
NOT O N
SPECIAL
4 DOOR
I - ' SPECIAL 4 DR.
34·/i·" ¯,i „ ¾O / • ÇCP\AKI ^
_i,_
56P24l
Figure 2 — Frame Dimensions

All Models—P-26, P-27, P¯28 Except Convertible Coupe
'A"
rti H 55P1042
Figure 3 — Frame Dimensions

P-27 Convertible Coupe (same as above with exceptions as shown)
MyMopar.com
FRAME, SPRINGS A N D SHOCK ABSORBERS 275
FRAME
Models P-26, P-28 P-27, P-29

Type Box Section
Frame Dimensions See Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5
REAR SPRINGS
Type Semi-Elliptic with Grooved Leaves
4 (except Suburban)
Number of 6 Suburban
Leaves Heavy duty springs—6 leaves (except Suburban)
—7 leaves (Suburban)
Type Shackle Side strapped with rubber bushed bolts
Type Pivot
Rubber Silent Block Bushings
Front End
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Type Onflow, hydraulic, double acting, telescopic
Rear spring silent block nut 60 ft. lbs.
Shock absorber stud nut ½" 60 ft. lbs.
Rear spring U-clip bolt nuts 70 ft. lbs.
Rear spring shackle nuts ‰ " 50 ft. lbs.
Sway bar bracket to frame bolts 55 ft. lbs.
Sway bar shaft retainer to control arm bolt nut 55 ft. lbs.
be taken without removing the body by using a CORRECTING FRAME ALIGNMENT

plumb bob and chalk line. Correct frame alignment can usually be restored
To take diagonal measurements with the body by straightening the frame parts. If frame cross
on the car, place the car on a level floor. Suspend members, side rails or brackets are badly dis-
the plumb bob directly under the center of one of torted, it is a better practice to replace the entire
the rear body bolts and mark the floor at that assembly or the individual parts.
point. Repeat the same procedure under the cen- When installing such parts as body hangers or
ters of other body bolts. The marks made on the rear engine support cross members, use the old
floor will represent various points which can be rivet holes as a guide for correct positioning and
checked diagonally. weld these parts to the frame.
MyMopar.com
, /STANDARD TRANSMISSION
POWERFLITE NOT ON SPECIAL
^. - . - ... SEDAN
34Vi6
EEEE^¾^^
I I ì'`/32
56P169
Figure 4 — Frame Dimensions—All Models—P-29

Except Convertible Coupe
JQ ñ
56P194
Figure 5 — Frame Dimensions—P-29—Convertible

Coupe—Same as above with exceptions as shown
2. REAR SPRINGS
REMOVAL
To remove a rear spring, raise the car and sup-

port the frame side rails just ahead of the rear
spring front mountings. Support the weight of the
rear axle. Disconnect the shock absorbers. Remove
the spring clips (U-bolts) and shackle bolt nuts and
remove the shackle and bolt assembly. Remove
the front mounting nut and bolt. Remove the spring
assembly.
INSTALLATION
To install a rear spring, position the spring as-

sembly and install the front mounting bolt and Figure 6 — Separating Spring Leaf Ends
nut. Install shackle and tighten shackle bolt nuts. w i t h Taper Bar
MyMopar.com
FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS 277
RETAINER PLATE
BOLT BOLT
BUMPER
BUSHING WASHER
WASHER STUD
NUT —•*- NUT
SHOCK ABSORBER
SOLENT BLOCK
\ BOIJ
NUT
BUSHING PACKAGE
SPRING
BOLT
SHACKLE
55P1095
Figure 7 — Rear Spring and Shock Absorber
Disassembled
Position the rear spring shackles so the shackle INSTALLATION

nuts are accessible from outside the frame side
member. Insert the rubber fasteners in the new interliner.
Separate the spring leaves by bearing down on
Install spring clips (U-bolts)ƒ washers and nuts. the pry bar and insert the interliner in position. See
Raise axle housing and connect shock absorbers. Figure 8. Line up the nipples of the fastener with
the holes in the leaf.
Grasp the end of the nipple with a pair of pliers.
3. REAR SPRING INTERLINERS See Figure 9. Carefully pull downward with a
rotary motion until the large end of the nipple is
REMOVAL through the hole and it is shouldered against the
grooved face of the leaf.
Jack up the rear end of the frame until the rear
shock absorbers are fully extended. This will re- Do not use a jerky motion which would break
lieve tension in the springs and permit easy sepa- or pull the upper end of the fastener through the
ration of the leaves. Remove the alignment clips interliner.
from the springs and cut off the rubber fasteners. Remove the tapered bar and install the align-
Separate the leaves with a screwdriver and drive a ment clips. Peen the end of the bolt over the nut
tapered bar between the leaves as shown in Figure on the alignment clip to prevent loosening.
6. Slip out the old interliner.
Clean the lower grooved surface of the longer

4. ORIFLOW SHOCK ABSORBERS
leaf as far as the interliner makes contact. Use
sandpaper wrapped around a flat file and sand Oriflow shock absorbers cannot be disassem-
the surface until all traces of dirt and rust are bled for servicing. If test reveals the shock ab-
removed leaving a smooth metal surface. Wipe sorber is not functioning properly, it must be
off the loose particles with a clean rag. replaced as a complete unit.
MyMopar.com
Figure 8 — Installing Interl¡ner Between Leaf Figure 9 — Pushing Nipple of Rubber Fastener
Ends through Spring Leaf Hole
TESTING ORIFLOW SHOCK ABSORBERS 6. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES

Onflow shock absorbers are designed to oper- UNSATISFACTORY RIDE
ate with low resistance when operated slowly and J. SHOCK ABSORBERS—When the car bounces
with high resistance when operated rapidly. Since or pitches excessively, or the springs "bottom"
they operate with little resistance when com- (with the car not overloaded), it may be due to lack
pressed by hand or by bench test methods, their of control of the shock absorbers. If the car rides
true operating efficiency can be determined best hard, or steering is difficult at high speeds, it may
by a road test. It is impossible to determine the be due to binding in the shock absorbers.
operating efficiency of Onflow shock absorbers
by rocking the car by the bumper. 2. SPRINGS—A-certain amount of spring bot-
toming on certain types of uneven road surfaces,
Hand testing Oriflow shock absorbers will only such as a broad hump in the road, is normal.
reveal complete failure. The amount of ride con- Rubber bumpers are provided to absorb the shock
trol evident from a hand test on the bench is small, of bottoming. Excessive bottoming on rough roads
compared with the control exerted under actual (with the car not overloaded) may be due to sag-
ride conditions. For this reason, it is impossible to ging front springs, or sagging or broken rear
feel any sudden resistance in an Oriflow shock springs. This will also cause the car to rock or
absorber, no matter how fast it is operated by pitch excessively on rough roads.
hand.
NOISE
5. SWAY ELIMINATOR J. RUBBER BUSHINGS—When the rubber bush-

ings at the shock absorbers, rear spring hangers,
To install a sway eliminator, slide new rubber or the sway eliminator, become worn or deterio-
bushings and cushions on the bar. The bar is %2 rated, the metal parts may come in contact causing
inch larger than the holes in bushings and cush- squeaks. Inspect for shiny spots at points where
ions. Use water as lubricant. If oil or brake fluid rubber bushings are located. No lubricant of any
is used, the rubber cushions will lose the desirable kind (oil, grease or soap) should be applied to
gripping effect on the bar. these bushings, as this would destroy the bond
between bushing and mounting.
Attach clips over rubber cushions at the outer
ends of the lower control arm. Compress the coil 2. MISALIGNED REAR SPRING—This condition
springs and attach the mounting brackets to the may cause a squeaking noise. Check for a twisted
underside of the frame horns. Always install or incorrectly seated rear spring. Straighten the
clamping screw with the nut toward the rear of spring by loosening the spring clips (U-bolts),
the car to prevent damage to the tires. center the spring and retighten the bolts.
MyMopar.com
279
SECTION XVII
TRANSMISSION
STANDARD-OVERDRIVE-POWERFLITE
Page
Data and Specifications 282,290, 297,328
1. Linkage Adjustments — Standard Transmission 279
2. Transmission — Disassembly 281
3. Transmission — Assembly and Installation 284
4. Overdrive — Electrical System 288
5. Overdrive — Disassembly and Inspection 290
6. Overdrive — Assembly and Installation 294
7. PowerFlite — Operating Principles 296
8. PowerFI¡te Hydraulic Pressure Tests 310
9. PowerFI¡te Linkage and Band Adjustments 311
10. Servicing PowerFI¡te Transmission In Vehicle 315
11. PowerFlite — Disassembly and Assembly 319
T. LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS — hind them are compressed. Then, remove the se-
STANDARD TRANSMISSION lector ball springs and balls, (Figure 2).
When removing gearshift lever shaft, take out
The gearshift lever should be in a horizontal
set screw and lever pin. Compress lever return
position when the transmission is in neutral. If it
spring (Figure 2) and slide shaft up until spring
is not horizontal, it can be positioned, by moving
clears lever sleeve. Remove spring and slide out
the lever to the horizontal and readjusting the
shaft.
clevis on the end of the control rod. See Figure 1.
Always replace the housing seals when rein-
A border line selector rod adjustment which will stalling lever shaft and selector shaft. Be sure the
allow shifting into low may still prevent shifting return spring is properly seated in gearshift lever
into reverse. Start the adjustment by putting the sleeve and shaft. Insert lever pin through the
transmission in neutral. Then check the adjusting sleeve and shaft. Locate set screw in groove in the
nut on the rear of selector rod at the selector lever. lever shaft and tighten screw.
If a shift cannot be made into low and reverse,
the nut is too loose. Tighten it until there is no play
in the rod. Then back it off 1/2 turn and tighten GEARSHIFT
the lock nut. Make sure the adjusting nut is not CONTROL ROD
too tight or it will not shift into second or high.
STANDARD TRANSMISSION
GEARSHIFT HOUSING — The gearshift housing
may be removed from side of transmission with-
out removing the transmission from the car.
With the housing removed, it is possible to SELECTOR LEVER
SELECTOR ROD
check countershaft gear end play (Figure 3) or
make a preliminary inspection of the condition SELECTOR ROD
ADJUSTMENT
of the gear shifter forks and rails.
When removing gearshift housing from trans-
mission, first remove two selector ball screws Figure 1 — Adjusting Gearshift Selector Rod and
(Figure 2). Do this with care since the springs be- Gearshift Control Rod
MyMopar.com
DRIVE PMK)N BEARING RETAINER
SCREW AND LOCKWASHER
S
DRIVE PINION BEARMG SNAP RING

DRIVE PINION BEARING WASHER SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PMK)N
SLEEVE
/ SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PMK)N OIL
M A M SHAFT REAR BEARMG
DRIVE PINION BEARING RETAINER /

/ / EXTENSION GASKET
;'4m. EXTENSION
7
<cf /
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PMK)N
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR
J / / MAM SHAFT BEARMG SPACER
r
f / / EXTENSION BEARMG
M A M SHAFT REAR BEARMG OIL SEAL
M A M SHAFT FLANGE
GEARSHIFT RAIL PLUG
MAM SHAFT FUNGE -<
NUT AND LOCKWASHER
GEARSHIFT FORK LOCK SCREW
GEARSHIFT FORK-SECOND GEARSHIFT RAIL INTERLOCK
UNIVERSAL JOINT ATTACHING BOLT

%/%
GEARSHIFT RAIL INTERLOCK PLUG
GEARSHIFT LEVER SHAFT

"—````«^>tt
GEARSHIFT LEVER PIN ^f»
LOCK SPRING \ ^ ^ 1
GEARSHIFT SELECTOR CAM AND SHAFT

-GASKET
GEARSHIFT HOUSMG REVERSE DLER SHAFT
COUNTERSHAFT THRUST WASHER PLATE
REVERSE DLER SHAFT KEY / COUNTERSHAFT THRUST WASHER
ivvn vv fwn«i
SEAL COUNTERSHAFT
BEARMG ROLLERS
GEARSHIFT SELEGOR-J COUNTERSHAFT BEARMG ROLLERS
BALL SPRING ^GEARSHIFT SEUaOR LEVER COUNTERSHAFT THRUST > W . ( )
WASHER PLATE
COUNTERSHAFT KEY REVERSE DLER GEAR WASHER
COUNTERSHAFT THRUST WASHER
•
REVERSE DLER GEAR BEARMG

REVERSE GEAR WASHER ROLLERS
55P1198
Figure 2 — Transmission Disassembled
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 281
ifiil PULLER C-497
45 x 133
Figure 3 — Checking Countershaft End Play
2. TRANSMISSION — DISASSEMBLY Figure 4 — Removing and Installing Mainshaft

Rear Bearing Oil Seal
REMOVAL 1 —Puller No. C-497 2—Driver No. C-579
Disconnect the propeller shaft, speedometer
cable, hand brake cable, and control rods. If trans-
mission is to be disassembled, apply the hand GEARSHIFT HOUSING
brake to hold the mainshaft while loosening the
When removing gearshift housing from trans-
flange nut. This method will also prevent possible
mission,firstremove two selector ball screws (Fig-
brinelling of bearings, or other damage caused by
ure 2). Do this with care since the springs behind
pounding on the wrench.
them are compressed. Then, remove the selector
Remove the transmission by pulling it straight ball springs and balls. See Figure 2.
back until pinion shaft clears clutch disc before
When removing gearshift lever shaft, take out
lowering transmission. This precaution will avoid
set screw and lever pin. Compress lever return
bending the clutch disc.
spring (Figure 2) and slide shaft up until spring
MAIN SHAFT OIL SEAL clears lever sleeve. Remove spring and slide out
shaft.
REMOVAL OF MAINSHAFT FLANGE — Apply
hand brake to hold shaft while nut is being re- Always replace the housing seals when rein-
moved. Remove brake drum assembly with special stalling lever shaft and selector shaft. Be sure the
puller C-452. Never drive the flange off with a return spring is properly seated in gearshift lever
hammer. sleeve and shaft. Insert lever pin through the
sleeve and shaft. Locate set screw in groove in the
Line up the fingers of the oil seal puller with
lever shaft and tighten screw.
every other spline groove in the mainshaft and
insert them behind the oil seal. Pull the oil seal out MAINSHAFT REMOVAL
by tightening the puller nut. See Figure 4.
Remove universal joint flange with puller C-452.
Use extreme care when removing seal to avoid Never drive the flange off with a hammer.
damage to recess in extension case; otherwise, the
new seal may leak. Remove shifter fork guide rail and set screws.
INSTALLATION—When installing the oil seal, Slide the second and high shifter rail forward
be careful not to damage the new seal on the edges until the interlock detent is visible. Hold a soft drift
of the splines. Do not roll back the edge of seal. in detent of the rail and drive out the expansion
Install with driver C-579, which locates the seal in plug, located in front of transmission case. This
its proper position. Seal must protrude 7/32 inch precaution will avoid damage to bore in the trans-
from end of extension case. Seal and rear main- mission.
shaft bearing may become damaged if seal is Unless it has been possible to shift the trans-
driven in too far. See Figure 4. mission into two gears at once, or the shifter rail
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION
Models P-26, P-27, P-28, P-29
Gears, Type Helical
Mainshaft Pilot 14 Steel Rollers

Bearings
Countershaft 22 Steel Rollers (each end)
Reverse Idler 22 Steel Rollers
.003 to .008 inch

Countershaft (Controlled by Thrust Washers)
(.003 inch preferred)
End Play
Second Speed Gear .003 to .008 inch
Drive Pinion Bearing .004
Rear Mainshaft Bearing .004
.084 inch No Mark

Thrust Washer Thickness .089 inch (marked "A")
.093 inch (marked "B")
Snap Ring Thickness .088-.091-.094-.097 inch
.001-.0165 inch
Transmission Bearing Retainer Gasket Thickness
.022-.0275 inch
Clutch Housing Run-Out .003 inch maximum
Clutch Housing Bore Run-Out .003 inch maximum
First 2.57-1
Gear Ratio
Second 1.83-1
Third 1.00-1
Reverse 3.48-1
Lubricant Capacity 2-3/4 pts.
Main Shaft Flange Nut 150 ft. lbs.
Case to Clutch Housing Screws 50 ft. lbs.
Extension or Rear Cover to Case Screw 30 ft. lbs.
Detent Spring Retaining Screw 25 ft. lbs.

MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 283
interlock detents show signs of wear or scoring,

it will not be necessary to remove the interlock
pin. To remove the interlock pin, drive the cup plug
into the interlock pin hole until it falls into the
shifter rail bore. Be sure to remove the plug and
the interlock pin from the case.
When removing extension and shaft assembly
avoid sliding the clutch sleeve off the gear, other-
wise the shifter plates will be released. Be careful
when removing clutch gear sleeve from mainshaft
to avoid damaging second speed synchronizer
stop ring. See Figure 2. Remove mainshaft pilot
bearing snap ring.
45x5O6
IMPORTANT Figure 5 — Checking Second Speed Gear End Play

Care must be taken when removing snap
rings to avoid damaging shafts, gears and
bearings. When snap rings are removed, al-
ways install new ones. Use C-484 snap ring new clutch gear before discarding the old syn-
pliers. chronizer assembly.
There should be no end play of the clutch gear
Inspect the mainshaft splines for wear, galling, on the mainshaft. Small nicks and burrs can be
scoring on bearing mounting surfaces or for dam- removed with a stone. Chamfers on clutch teeth
aged snap ring grooves. Slight nicks or burrs can must retain their original contour to allow proper
be stoned off. Do not attempt to repair damage synchronization.
which would affect fit of gears, bearings, or snap
Inspect end play of second speed gear. See
rings to shaft. Figure 5. More than .008 inch end play may result
in noise and possible jumping out of second gear.
BEARINGS
Excessive end play may be caused by end play
Clean mainshaft bearings. Dry by applying of the clutch gear or wear on the thrust faces of
compressed air directly through bearing. Never second speed gear, clutch gear and ends of main-
spin a bearing with compressed air. Instead, ap- shaft spiral splines. Worn parts should be replaced
ply a little oil and spin the bearing several times if noise is objectionable or gear disengagement is
by hand. Install new bearing if the old one is ex- encountered. If there is no end play in the clutch
cessively loose or noisy. Check the bearing for gear and no evidence of wear on the gears or
looseness or noise by comparing it with a new shaft, select the combination of parts (clutch gear
bearing. Inspect fit of bearings on mainshaft and assembly, second gear, or mainshaft) that will
in extension case bores. If bearings are loose at bring the second speed gear end play within limits.
these points, inspect bearings, shaft and case for
wear. If installation of new bearings does not After removing synchronizer assembly, inspect
correct condition, install a new shaft or case, as fit of second speed gear on shaft. If loose, check
necessary. shaft with new gear before discarding old gear.
The first and reverse sliding gear should move
GEARS smoothly and freely on mainshaft. Inspect fit of
Inspect backlash between the synchronizer sliding gear on shaft. If movement is excessive,
sleeve and clutch gear. If splines or teeth on clutch check the shaft with a new gear before discard-
gear are worn, replace both parts. Gear and sleeve ing old gear.
are supplied in matched sets so backlash between Gears with broken, chipped or badly worn
them will not exceed a maximum of .001 inch. teeth should be replaced. Inspect the second speed
If backlash is excessive between synchronizer gear clutch teeth. If chamfered ends are chipped
assembly and mainshaft check the shaft with a or badly worn, install a new gear.
MyMopar.com
SYNCHRONIZER
STOP RING INNER
CLUTCH GEAR
SLEEVE
SYNCHRONIZER STOP
RING ASSY. OUTER
CLUTCH GEAR
SYNCHRONIZER STOP
RING ASSY. INNER
SYNCHRONIZER
STOP RING OUTER 45x507
Figure 6 — Pin Type Synchronizer Figure 7 — Checking Countershaft Gear End Play
SYNCHRONIZER If drive pinion is loose on shaft or in case, check

shaft and case with a new bearing before discard-
Before removing the synchronizer, mark the ing the old one. Inspect mainshaft pilot roller
clutch gear sleeve and clutch gear so that they can (Figure 2) for play, pitting or scoring. If any of
be indexed in their original position. these conditions exist, replace all roller bearings.
Inspect the gear teeth and threads on the inner If roller bearings fall out during disassembly, they
and outer synchronizer stop rings. Check the gear are too loose and should be replaced.
teeth on the clutch gear and sleeve. If there is
evidence of chipped or excessively worn gear REVERSE IDLER GEAR
teeth, replace the part. Check the pins of the inner Drive out reverse idler shaft (Figure 2) from the
and outer synchronizer stop ring assembly for inside with arbor, C-464, to keep roller bearings
straightness and length. See Figure 6. in place.
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR Inspect gear teeth for breakage, chipping or
excessive wear. Inspect the shaft and washers
Before removing the drive pinion, check end (Figure 2) for wear and replace as necessary.
play of the countershaft gear (Figure 7) to deter- Check roller bearings for pitting and scoring. If
mine the need for new thrust washers. End play any are damaged, replace all roller bearings.
should be .003 to .008 inch with the low limit pre-
ferred. Drive the countershaft out through rear of
case. Use arbor C-578 to keep the roller bearings NOTE
and thrust washers in place. Drop the countershaft When a new gear has been installed without
gear to the bottom of the transmission case and replacing the mating gear, the new gear may
remove the drive pinion. be noisy until it develops the same wear pat-
After removing the drive pinion, the countershaft tern as the mating gear. For quiet operation,
gear can be removed from the transmission case. always replace the mating gear. Whenever a
Replace countershaft gear cluster if any of its gear gear is replaced because of a broken tooth,
teeth are broken, chipped or excessively worn. the mating gear should always be replaced.
Small nicks or burrs can be stoned off. Remove
rollers from each end of gear and spacer. Check
rollers for chips and nicks. If damaged, replace 3. TRANSMISSION—ASSEMBLY AND
all rollers. Inspect countershaft for wear. INSTALLATION
Wash all parts thoroughly and lubricate the
DRIVE PINION
gears and bearings as the transmission is being
Remove the drive pinion and inspect the clutch assembled. Install new oil seals and gaskets. Re-
teeth, helical teeth and splines. If excessively place snap rings that have been removed. Be sure
worn, broken, or chipped, install new pinion shaft. transmission case is thoroughly clean.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 285
Figure 8 — Selection and Installation of Drive

Pinion Bearing Snap Ring
REVERSE IDLER GEAR Figure 9 — Measuring Clearance Between Drive

Pinion Retainer and Case
When assembling, coat inside of gear lightly
with grease. To hold the rollers in place, place
arbor C-464 in bore and insert rollers. Coat ends Install drive pinion in case. Slide pinion bearing
of gear with grease to hold the washers in place. retainer (Figure 2) over shaft and tighten cap
Place the gear in case with the chamfered ends of screws snugly. Check the clearance between the
teeth forward. Insert key and drive in shaft until retainer and case. See Figure 9. Select a gasket
key is properly seated. about .005 inch thicker than the clearance between
the retainer and case. Use new grommets and in-
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR END PLAY stall retainer.
Coat the inside of the countershaft gear with a After the drive pinion has been installed, line
slight amount of grease to hold the roller bearings up the countershaft gear with the holes in the case
in place. Insert arbor C-578 in gear and install and push the shaft through from the rear. When
spacer and rollers. Position washer plates and the keyway is just next to the case, insert key in
thrust washers (previously selected) on ends of slot and line it up with the recess in the case. Then,
arbor protruding from countershaft gear. Install the finish pushing in the shaft.
steel washers next to the gear. These parts should
be checked dry to insure an accurate end play
MAINSHAFT
reading. Install gear end washers in case. Insert
the shaft, and check end play of countershaft gear. To assemble, install the second speed gear on
See Figure 7. After end play is established near mainshaft with the clutch teeth forward.
the low limit (.003 inch), install the arbor. Use oil
on plates and thrust washers to hold them in place. Install synchronizer assembly on mainshaft.
Do not use grease, or installation will be difficult. Select proper snap ring to remove all end play
Leave the countershaft gear assembly with arbor from clutch gear. See Figure 10.
in the bottom of the transmission case until the Check end play of second speed gear. See Fig-
drive pinion has been installed. ure 5. Limits are .003 to .008 inch. Then, install the
sliding gear with the fork groove forward.
DRIVE PINION AND COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
Position the synchronizer in the transmission
When assembling the drive pinion, install pin- first. Then guide the mainshaft assembly through
ion bearing and washer on shaft. Select a snap the synchronizer. Line up the marks previously
ring that will eliminate all end play at the pinion made on the clutch gear and clutch gear sleeve.
bearing. See Figure 8. To avoid distorting the snap Make sure that the spreader spring is installed
ring, use a short piece of pipe or tubing to install between the second speed gear and stop ring with
it on the pinion shaft. the three prongs pointing toward the front of the
transmission.
Coat pocket in pinion shaft lightly with grease
and install roller bearings. Slide last bearing in After installing the mainshaft assembly check
from the end. Install mainshaft pilot bearing snap the clearance between the pins and pin assembly
ring. See Figure 2. as shown in Figure 11. If clearance is in excess of
MyMopar.com
n
.040-.060 INCH CLEARANCE
45x511
Figure 10 — Selecting Snap Ring For Clutch Gear Figure 11—Checking Synchronizer Clearance
LOW
.060 inch replace both inner and outer synchro-
nizer stopringassemblies. If clearance is less than
.040 inch, remove the synchronizer and file the pins
evenly. Check the pins to be sure that they are of
equal length. Remove all burrs from the end of the
pins with emery cloth.
45x512
Install rear mainshaft bearing in extension case,
and select proper snap ring to remove all end play
of the bearing in the case. Install speedometer Figure 12 — Assembly of Shifter Rails
drive gear on mainshaft through rear of extension.
Install gear with teeth toward the rear. Install
spacer and extension bearing. See Figure 2. Install up the hole in the shifter rail with the set screw in
oil seal using drift C-579. Install mainshaft flange, the shifter fork and tighten set screw with an offset
washer, lockwasher and nut on shaft. Nut can be screw driver. Be sure the set screw is tight.
tightened after transmission is installed on car. If the interlock pin was removed, insert it in the
Coat rear face of transmission case lightly with hole in the case and install the cup plug.
grease to hold gasket in place. Slide synchronizer Place the low and reverse sliding gear in neutral
clutch sleeve about half way forward on clutch position and insert the fingers of the shifter fork in
gear so that it will pass easily over second speed groove in the gear with the hole for the guide rail
countershaft gear. Before installing the synchro- at the top. Slide low and reverse shifter rail through
nizer spreader spring between the high gear syn- front of case and through holes in shifter forks. Be
chronizer stop ring and the clutch gear, coat the sure the second and high rail is in neutral position
spring with grease to hold it in place. Install the and the interlock pin is down in detent in the rail.
spring with the fingers pointing forward. Install Then, finish sliding in the low and reverse rail. line
mainshaft assembly in transmission case. Use new up the hole in the rail with the set screw in fork and
grommets (Figure 2) under cap screws. tighten set screw with an offset screw driver. Be
sure set screw is tight.
SHIFTER RAILS AND FORKS
Insert guide rail through hole in front of case and
Place synchronizer clutch sleeve in the neutral through both shifter forks and tighten with screw
position. Insert fingers of second and high shifter driver.
fork into the groove in sleeve with hole for the
guide rail at top. See Figure 12. GEARSHIFT HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Slide the second and high shifter rail through Install housing pilot studs with special tool,
the front of the case and through the shifter fork. C-590, in transmission case and place gasket over
Install expansion plug at the front of the rail. line pilot studs. See Figure 13.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 287
total indicator reading. To correct excessive run-

out, place proper thickness of shim stock between
the clutch housing and engine or between trans-
mission and clutch housing. See Figures 14 and 15.
Check run-out of housing bore. See Figure 16.
Bore should not be off center more than .003 total
indicator reading.
If necessary to correct bore alignment, tap out
dowels that align clutch housing to engine. Loosen
mounting bolts slightly and tap housing to line it
up with crankshaft.
HOUSING PILOT STUDS—TOOL—C-590 Tighten bolts 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque and
recheck alignment. Ream out dowel holes with
special tool C-860 and install .010 inch oversize
dowels (part No. 1316146).
INSTALLING TRANSMISSION — Insert about
1/2 teaspooníul of short-fibre wheel bearing grease
Figure 13 — Installing Gearshift Housing Assembly
Figure 15 — Installing Shim Between Engine

and Clutch Housing
Figure 14 — Installing Shim Between
Transmission and Clutch Housing
Set the gearshift lever (Figure 2) and the shifter

forks in neutral position. Place housing on pilot
studs. Tighten two cap screws, remove pilot studs.
Tool C-590, and install remaining screws.
Drop gearshift selector balls into holes and in-
sert selector ball springs. See Figure 2. Use new
washers and install selector ball screws.
TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT-If transmis-

sion has been jumping out of gear, check clutch
housing face alignment with housing aligning
arbor C-870, before installing transmission. Run- Figure 16 — Check Clutch Housing Bore —
out on this surface should not exceed .003 inch Using Fixture C-870 and Indicator C-430
MyMopar.com
in the drive pinion pilot bushing in the end of the HORN

OVERDRIVE
crankshaft. Do not put grease on the end of the RELAY RELAY SOLENOID
drive pinion. Be careful not to get any grease on
the clutch disc or flywheel. Grease on the clutch
facing or flywheel will cause clutch disc slippage
and chattering.
Figure 18 — Solenoid Circuit (All No. 10 Wire)
Be sure the clutch disc is properly aligned. Use
extreme care when installing the transmission to
avoid springing the clutch disc. Tighten the trans-
mission case to clutch housing screws to a torque The circuit can be broken at any point, and when
of 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Tighten the mainshaft broken, the relay points open, cutting off current
flange nut to a torque of 140 to 150 foot-pounds, in the solenoid circuit. The governor contacts will
using the handbrake to hold the mainshaft. open if the car speed decreases below approxi-
Always check clutch pedal adjustment after in- mately 25 miles per hour. The contacts in the kick-
stalling transmission. Adjust the shifter linkage down switch separate and break the circuit when
with the transmission in the neutral position. the kick-down switch is operated. When the con-
trol handle is pulled out, the lockout rail switch on
cars so equipped opens, de-energizing the entire
4. OVERDRIVE—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM electrical circuit.
The overdrive unit provides automatic fourth SOLENOID CIRCUIT
gear performance at speeds above approximately
25 miles per hour. This is accomplished by a The solenoid circuit controls the flow of current
planetary gear arrangement within the overdrive to the solenoid. See Figure 18.
unit which drives the propeller shaft ten revolu-
tions for every seven revolutions of the engine. The circuit starts at the battery terminal on the
Automatic mechanical shifting from conventional horn relay. This terminal is used only as a source
drive to overdrive and from overdrive to conven- of current since it is part of a direct circuit from the
tional drive is dependent upon the function of three battery and is hot at all times. The circuit then runs
electrical control circuits: the control circuit, the to the battery terminal on the overdrive relay;
solenoid circuit, and the ignition interruption through a 20 amp. fuse; through the overdrive
circuit. relay contact points and then to the No. 4 terminal
on the solenoid. The circuit within the solenoid is
CONTROL CIRCUIT
grounded at all times.
The control circuit is a switching circuit to oper- When current is flowing in the control circuit,
ate the overdrive relay which closes, or breaks the the overdrive relay points close and the solenoid
solenoid operating circuit. See Figure 17. It is only circuit supplies current to the solenoid. This drives
in operation when the ignition is turned on, the the solenoid plunger inward and permits engage-
control handle pushed in and the car speed is ment of the overdrive gearing as soon as the driver
above approximately 25 miles per hour. The circuit releases the throttle and permits the engine to slow
begins at the ignition terminal of the horn relay down.
and runs through the kick-down switch "A" termi-
nals, through a rail lockout switch (on cars so IGNITION INTERRUPTION CIRCUIT
equipped); then to the governor which grounds the
circuit whenever the car speed is above approxi- The ignition interruption circuit provides a
mately 25 miles per hour. This grounding completes means of shifting from overdrive to conventional
the circuit, permitting flow of current which oper- drive rapidly. See Figure 19.
ates the overdrive relay.
HORN GKfEN KICKDOWN

LOCKOUT SWITCH
| ZLJ RE'LÄV RAIL SWITCH BUCK
<^ì miow | f ] |
JO«D.
§ KICKDOWN
1 1
i SWITCH
Figure 17 — Control Circuit Figure 19 — Ignition Interruption Circuit
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 289
The circuit starts at the distributor primary (front)

stud on the ignition coil; through the two "B" termi-
nals on the kickdown switch; then to the No. 6
terminal on the solenoid. The circuit is normally
open in the kickdown switch and is open in the
solenoid until the solenoid has functioned to en-
gage the overdrive gearing at which time a switch
inside the solenoid is grounded.
With the overdrive operating and the solenoid
switch grounded, the operation of the kickdown
switch completes the circuit and grounds out the
engine ignition. This occurs only momentarily
since the solenoid plunger immediately moves out
and opens the switch in the solenoid cover, break-
ing the circuit, even though the kickdown switch
is held down.
Figure 20 — Installing Solenoid
DRIVER CONTROLLED DOWNSHIFT

(KICK-DOWN) When installing the solenoid turn the solenoid
Automatic shifting from overdrive to direct drive 1/6 of a turn clockwise and insert it into the
is accomplished by pressing the accelerator pedal adapter plate to engage the pawl. Rotate the sole-
to the floor. When the kickdown switch plunger is noid 1/6 of a turn counter-clockwise to its normal
depressed two actions take place: position. Line up the holes and test the engagement
of plunger with the control pawl by attempting to
(1) Contact points "A" (Figure 19) which are pull the solenoid out of the adapter plate. See
normally closed are opened, breaking the circuit Figure 20.
and de-energizing the solenoid. The solenoid
spring attempts to retract the pawl in the overdrive
unit (Figure 20) but due to torgue exerted by the NOTE
engine through the sun gear plate the pawl is held
in place. If the control pawl should drop down into
engagement with the sun gear control plate,
(2) Depressing the kick-down switch plunger retrieve the pawl with a screw driver or similar
further closes a set of points "B" (Figure 19) which tool.
completes the circuit from the ignition coil to the
solenoid and then to ground. Grounding the circuit
momentarily causes an interruption in the ignition
and slows the speed of the engine enough to cause OVERDRIVE GOVERNOR
a reversal of torque which frees the pawl. When To remove the overdrive governor use special
the pawl is fully retracted the solenoid points are wrench C-3193. See Figure 21. Remove the cover
opened, breaking the circuit through the kick- assembly and inspect the switch mechanism for
down switch and normal engine operation is re- proper action. Dirty or corroded points should be
established and the transmission is in third gear. cleaned with a # 6 swiss cut equalizing file or fine
When the pedal is momentarily released the over- grade of sandpaper.
drive unit is automatically re-engaged.
Check the action of the plunger for free move-
OVERDRIVE SOLENOID ment. If a binding condition exists, put two drops
of oil in the hole located in the side of the plunger
To remove the solenoid, remove the two screws sleeve and work the plunger up-and-down until
from the adapter plate and rotate the solenoid 1/6 free movement is obtained.
of a turn clockwise to disengage the plunger from
No further servicing or disassembly of the unit
the control pawl.
should be attempted. Reassemble the unit and in-
Remove the solenoid cover and inspect both sets stall it in the overdrive housing using wrench
of contact points for dirt or corrosion. Clean the C-3193. Route the governor lead wire away from
contacts with a # 6 swiss cut equalizing file or fine the hand brake to prevent any possible damage
grain sandpaper. to the wire.
MyMopar.com
OVERDRIVE
Models P¯26, P-28 P-27, P-29
Gears, Type Helical (Planetary)

3 Pinions
Over-running Clutch 12 Rollers
Overdrive Housing Bearing .061-.063 (Thin) .064-.066 (Medium)
Snap Ring Thickness .067-.069 (Thick) .074-.072 (Extra Thick)
Overdrive Cover Plate .0605-.0645 (Thin) .0645-.0685 (Medium)

Snap Ring Thickness .0685-.0725 (Thick)
Transmission Shaft Bearing .086-.088 (Thin) .089-.091 (Medium)
\ \ Snap Ring .092-.094 (Thick) .095-.097 (Extra Thick)
Transmission Shaft Drive Pinion .086-.088 (Thin) .089-.091 (Medium)
Bearing Snap Ring .092-.094 (Thick) .095-.097 (Extra Thick)
Rotation Clockwise
Contacts should close at 575 Governor RPM

On Acceleration
(Maximum)
Contacts should open at 440 Governor RPM
On Deceleration
(Minimum)
Difference Between
90 Governor RPM (Minimum)
Make or Break
Mainshaft Flange Nut 140-150 Ft. Lbs.

Overdrive Housing To Transmission Screw 30-35 Ft. Lbs.
RAIL LOCKOUT SWITCH
(On cars so equipped) 5. OVERDRIVE — DISASSEMBLY AND

When servicing the rail lockout switch, care INSPECTION
must be exercised to install the lockout switch
plunger in its correct position. REMOVAL OF TRANSMISSION AND OVERDRIVE
Coat the plunger with a light film of grease and Remove transmission and Overdrive as a unit.
with the aid of a small detent spring or similar
device push the plunger up into its proper vertical Before the overdrive unit can be disassembled for
position. The grease will hold the plunger in place servicing, it will be necessary to remove the gear-
and the switch can be installed. shift housing, shift forks, and rail guide from the
transmission.
IMPORTANT
The governor, lockout switch, and speedometer
A cocked plunger would cause damage to
the hole and prevent operation of the switch.
pinion may be removed at this time from the over-
drive housing.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 291
Figure 21 —Removing Governor —

Figure 22 — Removing Overdrive Unit
Using Tool C-3193
REMOVING OVERDRIVE UNIT

FROM TRANSMISSION
Remove the four screws which hold the over-
drive unit and adapter plate to the transmission.
Tap the adapter plate with a rawhide hammer to
loosen it from the transmission. Exercise care
when removing the unit from the transmission, to
prevent possible damage. See Figure 22.
REMOVING OVERDRIVE MAINSHAFT

Drive the tapered pin from the overdrive hous-
ing. Pull the control shaft out as far as possible to
disengage it from the shift rail. Rotate the shaft 90°
counter-clockwise to hold it in position.
Remove the two recessed screws and lock-
washers located in the front face of the adapter Figure 23 — Removing Adapter Plate Screws
plate. See Figure 23. Tap the end of the overdrive
mainshaft a few times with a soft hammer to free
it from the bearing. Carefully slide the housing
from the overdrive mainshaft to prevent spilling
the rollers of the over-running clutch.
Remove the retractor spring and sleeve from
the housing for inspection.
REAR BEARING OIL SEAL

When removing the rear bearing oil seal from
the overdrive housing use puller C-748. See Figure
24. When installing the new seal use driver C-579
which correctly positions the seal in the housing.
The seal must extend 9/32 inch from the end of the
housing.
REAR BEARING
The rear bearing is held in place by two snap
rings. Remove the front and rear snap ring and Figure 24 — Removing Oil Seal With Puller C-748
MyMopar.com
ADAPTER SCREW HOUSING ADAPTER COVER PLATE SNAP RING
ADAPTER BEARING RETRACTOR SPRING
SPRING
GUIDE SLEEVE
TRANSMISSION
MAIN SHAFT
SPACER
LOCKWASHÊR
LOCKWASHER
LOCKWASHER
BRAKE SUPPORT / HOUSING SCREW, LONG
SNAP RING
GOVERNOR
COVER ASSEMBLY
LOCKWASHER
DRIVEN GEAR SLEEVE
CAM RETAINING CLÎP
PINION CAGE
RETAINING CLIP
HOUSING BEARING
HOUSING SCREW
PINION CAGE CONTROL SHAFT

OH SEAL
ROLLER RETAINER CONTROL SHAFT PIN SWITCH

ANO CAM INTERLOCK PLUNGER
45 x 941
Figure 25 — Overdrive Unit Disassembled
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 293
spilling the rollers. See Figure 28. Inspect the mean-

shaft outer race and ring gear for wear or damage.
If it is necessary to replace one or the other, pry
off the snap ring and remove the ring gear from the
outer race. Always use a new snap ring when
assembling the unit. See Figure 25.
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
Remove the clutch cam retaining clip and slide

the overrunning clutch and pinion cage assembly
from the transmission mainshaft splines. See Fig-
ure 29.
Pry off the pinion cage retaining clip to separate
the two units. Carefully inspect the twelve rollers
Figure 2 6 — Removing Rear Bearing with and cam surfaces for wear. If any of the rollers
Driver C-3204 show signs of wear or cracking, replace all twelve
rollers. Replace the clutch cam if there are any
marks or indentations on the surfaces of the cam.
drive the bearing from the housing, using driver
C-3204. See Figure 26. Clean and inspect the
bearing.
OVERDRIVE MAIN
SHAFT AND PINION
Install the rear bearing open end first, with GEAR ASSEMBLY
driver C-3204. Always use new snap rings. Selec-
tivelyfitboth front and rear snap rings to eliminate
end play.
CONTROL SHAFT OIL SEAL

Remove the control lever from the control shaft
and pull the shaft out from inside the housing.
Pry the worn seal from its seat in the housing and
install a new seal using Tool C-3198. See Figure 27.
MAINSHAFT AND RING GEAR ASSEMBLY

Carefully remove the ring gear and main shaft
assembly from the overrunning clutch to avoid Figure 2 8 — Removing Ring Gear Assembly
CLUTCH CAM
RETAINING CLIP
Figure 27 — Installing Control Shaft Oil Seal with

Driver C-3198 Figure 29 — Removing Clutch Cam Retaining Clip
MyMopar.com
Do not attempt to separate the cam from the re-

tainer unless absolutely necessary for replace-
ment of component parts.
PINION CAGE
The pinion cage cannot be disassembled for
service. Replace complete assembly if inspection
reveals damage or excessive wear to any of the
three pinion gears on pinion cage. See Figure 30.
PAWL ROD OIL SEAL
Remove the old seal from the adapter plate with

a screwdriver or similar tool and discard it. Clean
the oil seal hole and inspect for burrs. When in-
stalling the new seal use driver C¯32O7. Figure 31 —Testing Balk Ring Tension With
Pull Scale
SUN GEAR AND MANUAL CONTROL FORK
Slide the sun gear and manual control fork from

the transmission mainshaft at the same time. In- control pawl should index exactly with the notch
spect the sun gear for wear, chipped or broken in both fingers of the balk ring.
teeth. To remove the shift collar from the sun gear,
pry off the forward snap ring. ADAPTER BEARING
The adapter bearing is held in place by two snap
SUN GEAR CONTROL PLATE AND BALK RING rings which are selectively fitted to control end
Remove the adapter snap ring and retainer plate play. Remove the large snap ring which holds the
from the adapter. Test the balk ring for proper bearing in the adapter plate. Remove the transmis-
tension on the control plate by hooking a pull scale sion mainshaft, bearing, and oil baffle. Remove the
on one finger of the balk ring. Pull away from the small snap ring and press the bearing from the
opening and if less than 1 lb. of pull is required to mainsnait.
move the lubricated balk ring around the control
plate replace the balk ring. See Figure 31. 6. OVERDRIVE—ASSEMBLY AND
INSTALLATION
Make certain that the balk ring is installed
correctly on the control plate. Place the embossed Thoroughly wash the mechanical parts in a suit-
face forward against the control plate. Check the able solvent and allow to dry before reassembling.
assembly by installing it in the adapter plate. The When reassembling the overdrive, use new gas-
kets and oil seals and snap rings where required.
Lubricate all parts.
ADAPTER PLATE
Install the oil baffle in the adapter with the
pressed out section toward the rear. Install the
transmission mainshaft and bearing in the adapter
plate and secure the assembly with a selectively
fit snap ring.
IMPORTANT
A loose bearing will allow end play in the
drive train and may result in a partial en-
gagement or interlocking of gears.
Figure 30 — Pinion Cage Showing Pinion Roller Install the interlock plunger in the adapter, then
Bearings install the control pawl in its cavity with the
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 295
OVERDRIVE SUN GEAR CONTROL PLATE

INTERLOCK AND BLOCKER RING
PLUNGER
45×745
LOCKOUT PAWL `¾v ¾ ¾ H B l i F ^
Figure 32 — Proper Location of Control Pawl Figure 34 — Apply Grease to Hold Rollers in
Clutch Retainer
notched side up to engage the plunger. See Figure

32. Slide the sun gear control plate and its baik ring stall the clutch cam retaining clip. Make sure that
into position. Make certain that the locking pawl the clip notches into the groove at the end of the
is installed so that the engaging end is located be- transmission mainshaft.
tween the open ends of the balk ring. Apply a small amount of grease in the pockets
of the roller retainer and insert the twelve rollers
SUN GEAR AND SHIFT FORK in their respective pockets. See Figure 34. The
grease will hold the rollers in position when in-
Slide the sun gear on the transmission main- stalling the overdrive mainshaft and outer race
shaft. Engage the shift fork in the sun gear shift assembly.
collar. Guide the shift rail into its hole in the adapt-
er and mesh the sun gear with the control plate.
OVERDRIVE MAINSHAFT AND RING GEAR
See Figure 33.
ASSEMBLY
PINION CAGE AND OVERRUNNING CLUTCH Hold the overdrive mainshaft with one hand.
Turn the overdrive mainshaft counter-clockwise
Assemble the clutch cam and roller cage to the with the other hand and push the ring gear into
pinion cage and secure the assembly with the mesh with the pinions. Turning the shaft moves
pinion cage retaining clip. Slide the assembly on the rollers down on the low part of the cams and
the splines of the transmission mainshaft and in- makes the installation easier. See Figure 35.
SHIFT RAIL
CLUTCH OUTER RACE
RING GEAR
45x746
Figure 33 — Installing Shift Rail and Sun Gear Figure 35 — Installing Clutch Outer Race
MyMopar.com
RETRACTOR SPRING LUBRICATION

RETRACTOR SPRING SLEEVE First fill the overdrive unit up to the filler plug
level with a good grade S.A.E. 80 transmission
gear lubricant, then fill the transmision and re-
check both levels.
IMPORTANT
Never use a lubricant of the hypoid axle
extreme pressure type in the overdrive unit.
c e
45x744
7. POWERFLITE—OPERATING
PRINCIPLES
Figure 36 — Overdrive Housing
Plymouth PowerFlite combines a highly efficient
torque converter and a simple automatic two-
speed transmission which provides exceptionally
IMPORTANT smooth performance throughout the entire speed
range. The transmission is equipped with a neutral
Never force the mainshaft into position. This
starter safety switch which prevents starting the
may result in one of the rollers being pushed
car in gear. All normal driving can be done in the
out of its pocket in the retainer and causing
Drive range, which accelerates the car in low
considerable damage to the unit.
range and then automatically shifts the transmis-
sion into direct drive at the proper time, depending
upon the degree of acceleration desired by the
Slide the speedometer and governor drive gear driver. The shift is fully automatic, allowing the
onto the overdrive mainshaft. driver to keep constant pressure with his foot on
the accelerator pedal at all times. Instant accelera-
RETRACTOR SPRING AND CONTROL LEVER tion with the selector lever in Drive range is
accomplished by pressing the accelerator pedal
Slide Tool C-3195 into manual control shaft oil to the floor. This action downshifts the transmis-
seal from outside case. Insert manual control shaft sion to low gear.
from inside of housing with the cam pointing up.
Push shaft into tool and through oil seal and out A low range is provided to keep the transmis-
of housing as far as possible. Remove the tool. sion in low gear at all speeds for unusual driving
Slide manual control lever on end of control shaft, conditions such as climbing or descending moun-
with offset away from housing and pointing down. tains or driving through sand.
Install washer and nut. With the manual control "Rocking" the car, when mired in mud or snow,
shaft pulled out away from the case as far as pos- is easily accomplished by lifting the selector lever
sible, install the retractor spring and sleeve. See toward the driver and alternately shifting the
Figure 36. selector lever between Low and Reverse.
OVERDRIVE HOUSING TORQUE CONVERTER
Install a new gasket in position and carefully The torque converter is capable of producing an
guide the housing over the end of the overdrive engine torque multiplication of 2.6 to 1. The torque
mainshaft. Hold the shift rail and ease it through converter receives its oil supply at a constant
the hole in the housing and retractor spring. Line pressure from the front pump in the transmission.
up the gasket and secure the assembly with the
two adapter screws and lockwashers. The torque converter unit is bolted to and sup-
ported by the crankshaft flange. It consists of
Push the control shaft into position and check three basic parts: an impeller, a turbine, and a
the shift rail for free operation by working the stator. The impeller which forms the outer shell
manual control lever. Drive the tapered retaining of the converter unit is driven by the engine. The
pin in from the top. (Continued on page 299)
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 297
POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION
Automatic two speed

Type
with Torque Converter
Oil Capacity of Transmission and

10 Quarts
I Torque Converter
Torque Converter Multiplication 2.6 to 1
Oil Cooling Fins welded to Torque Converter
Provided by Transmission Front

Lubrication
and Rear Pump
Low 1.72 to 1
Drive—Breakaway 1.72 to 1
Drive—Direct 1 to 1
Reverse 2.39 to 1
Type Gear
End Clearance .0012 to .0022 inches
Governor Type Centrifugal
Clearance between Governor Valve and Body .0005 to .002 inches
.078 to .080 in. (thin)f

Direct Clutch Piston Retainer Thrust Washer
.095 to .097 in. (medium),
(3 sizes)
.112 to .114 in. (thick)
Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier Thrust Washer .124 to .126 inches
Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier Thrust Washer .124 to .126 inches
Planet Pinion Carrier Housing Thrust Washer .124 to .126 inches
.059 to .061 in. (thin),

Kickdown Sun Gear Snap Ring (3 sizes) .062 to .064 in. (medium),
.065 to .067 in. (thick)
Takeoff Plug, Left Front

Line Pressure
Side of Transmission
Takeoff Plug, Left Side of

U 02 Governor Pressure
Transmission in Output Shaft Support
Takeoff Plug, Right Side of

Throttle Pressure
Transmission, Next to Kickdown Servo
Takeoff Plug, Right Side of Transmission

Direct Clutch Pressure
at Bottom of Kickdown Servo
MyMopar.com
ENGINE CRANKSHAFT
JURBINE¯i '-OVERRUNNING CLUTCH

HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY
IMPELLER
INPUT SHAFT KICKDOWN PLANETARY GEAR SET
L·f DIRECT CLUTCH REVERSE PLANETARY GEAR SET
I
GOVERNOR
m
1
n
m
>
OUTPUT SHAFT
REAR OIL PUMP
REVERSE BAND
FRONT OIL OIL STRAINER

PUMP
KICKDOWN BAND
54x222
Figure 37 — Plymouth PowerFlite
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 299
TORQUE CONVERTER STARTING FROM STANDSTILL

MAXIMUM TORQUE
AVAILABLE
turbine is driven by the force of oil from the im-
peller vanes. The turbine is splined to the input
shaft of the transmission. The stator located be-
tween the impeller and turbine serves to redirect
the flow of oil in the unit, thus multiplying engine
torque. The stator is mounted on overrunning
IMPELLER
clutches which permits it to rotate only in the di- (TURNS AT ENGINE
rection of the impeller and turbine.
Since the torque converter is a welded unit, it TURBINE STATOR STATIONARY.
can be serviced only as a complete assembly. (STATIONARY) VANE DIRECTS FLOW OF
OIL TO AID IMPELLER
The adapter plate is located between the con-
verter housing and rear face of the engine block. Figure 38 — Torque Converter Operation
The torque converter housing is bolted to the (Starting from Standstill)
adapter plate.
TORQUE CONVERTER OPERATION AS CAR SPEED INCREASES

LESS TORQUE ^ v y ^
STARTING FROM STANDSTILL — When a MULTIPLICATION f ? / \ ~ J ^
PowerFlite equipped Plymouth is started from a
standstill, the engine driven impeller rotates rapid-
vliSkY
ly and the turbine begins to rotate, absorbing
energy from the high velocity oil flow. See Figure
38. This high velocity oil is then discharged against
the stator vanes which in turn redirects the oil to
the impeller. It is this force of redirected oil flow
11 PRIMARY STATOR BEGINS
which provides the multiplication of engine torque.
AS CAR SPEED INCREASES — As the speed of TURBINE '
lÊfÊšé
^ * ^ ^ T ¯ ¯ 3 K ^
'
_/
7 T O OVERRUN AS FLOW
` / FROM TURBINE STRIKES
BACK OF VANES.
(SPEED APPROACHES ^ ^ J
the turbine approaches the speed of the impeller, IMPELLER SPEED) f~ì
STATOR STILL STATIONARY
torque multiplication gradually diminishes. See 55P1235
Figure 39. As this occurs, the angle of oil leaving
the turbine gradually changes in relation to the Figure 39 — Torque Converter Operation
stator and the oil flow begins to strike the back of (As Car Speed Increases)
the stator vanes. When this action takes place, the
stator is carried along by the force of oil on the
backs of the stator vanes because the stator is AT CRUISING SPEED
NO TORQUE / \ y
mounted on an overunning clutch, permitting it to MULTIPLICATION Æ/ jr
rotate in the direction of the impeller. During this
time, the oil continues to strike the front face of
the stator vanes and is redirected to the impeller.
CRUISING SPEED — Under wide open throttle
operation, the speed of the turbine approaches
very near the speed of the impeller at approxi-
mately 35 miles per hour. At this point the angle HÈÊ w i yMf
† Y
/ J- —'
IMPELLER
^ (TURNS AT ENGINE
SPEED)
of the oil flow from the turbine changes still more 4
and its force is directed to the back of the stator ì
TURBINE / - » n `^^^ STATOR ROTATES O N
vanes. See Figure 40. The stator then begins to (SPEED NEARLY EQUAL 11 1 OVERRUNNING CLUTCHES
rotate in the same direction as the impeller, the TO IMPELLER SPEED) \ / \ /
55P1236
stator, and the turbine. When this occurs no further
torque multiplication exists and the unit operates Figure 40 — Torque Converter Operation
at a ratio of approximately 1 to 1. (At Cruising Speed)
MyMopar.com
MECHANICAL OPERATION OF
KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR
TRANSMISSION
KICKDOWN BAND APPLIED
REVERSE BAND DRUM The transmission unit consists essentially of two
REVERSE SUN
planetary gear sets, one multiple disc clutch, a
GEAR kickdown band, a reverse band, and a series of
OUTPUT SHAFT operating valves. Each planetary gear set con-
sists of an annulus gear, a planet pinion carrier
with three planet pinion gears, and a sun gear.
REVERSE PLANET
GEAR
DRIVE RANGE—BREAKAWAY—When the car
INPUT SHA REVERSE ANNULUS
GEAR
is starting or is being driven slowly with the gear-
REVERSE PLANET shift panel control in Drive (D)f the transmission
CARRIER
is downshifted into low. The kickdown band is
KICKDOWN SUN GEAR STATIONARY
45x2061 applied at this time and holds the sun gear of the
Figure 41 — PowerFlow in Transmission
kickdown planetary gearset stationary. See Fig-
(Breakaway, Kickdown or Low) ure 41. The power flow is from the torque con-
verter turbine, through the transmission input
shaft, to the annulus gear of the kickdown (front)
KICKDOWN BAND
planetary set and to the sun gear of the reverse
(rear) planetary gearset. When the kickdown sun
DIRECT CLUTCH APPLIED / PLANET CARRIERS gear is held stationary and the annulus gear is
REVERSE BAND
the driving member, the kickdown planet carrier
rotates at a slower speed than the annulus gear.
The speed of the reverse sun gear is further re-
duced by the reverse planetary gearset before
power is transmitted to the output shaft. Since both
the kickdown planet carrier and the reverse planet
carrier are splined to the reverse band drum, the
reverse planet carrier is revolving slower than the
KICKDOWN ANNULUS
GEAR
reverse sun gear, which is turning at input shaft
KICKDOWN SUN GEAR 45x2062
speed. Therefore, the reverse planet gears rotate
backward on their shafts and the reverse annulus
Figure 42 — PowerFlow in Transmission gear which is the driven member and is splined
(Direct Drive) to the output shaft, rotates forward more slowly
than the planet carriers.
PLANET CARRIERS
STATIONARY
The kickdown planetary gearset coupled with
the reverse planetary gearset provides a starting
REVERSE BAND APPLIED
gear ratio of 1.72 to 1 at the output shaft of the
ANNULUS
transmission. The 1.72 to 1 gearset ratio in the
GEAR transmission multiplied by the 2.6 to 1 torque
multiplication of the torque converter provides an
overall starting ratio of 4.47 to 1 at the transmis-
sion output shaft.
PLANET DRIVE RANGE—KICKDOWN—Pressing the ac-
GEAR
KICKDOWN ANNULUS celerator pedal to the floor when in direct drive,
KICKDOWN SUN GEAR IDLING GEAR
downshifts the transmission from direct drive to
KICKDOWN PLANET GEAR IDLING
low gear. When this occurs the direct clutch is re-
45x2063
leased and the kickdown band is applied. The
Figure 43 — PowerFlow in Transmission power flow through the transmission is the same
(Reverse) as it is for breakaway. See Figure 41.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 301
LOW RANGE—When the panel control is placed HYDRAULIC OPERATION

in Low (L) the transmission stays in low at all NEUTRAL—When the engine is started (panel
times and cannot upshift into direct drive. When control placed in Neutral), the manual valve which
driving in low, only the kickdown band is applied is connected to the panel control by mechanical
and the power flow is the same as for breakaway linkage is positioned so that oil cannot pass to
shown in Figure 41. the hydraulic control system of the transmission.
DRIVE RANGE—DIRECT—When the transmis- Therefore, the direct clutch and both the front
sion upshifts from low gear, the unit is in direct and rear bands are in the released position. Oil
drive. At the point of upshift, the direct clutch is under pressure flows from the front pump to the
applied and both the kickdown band and reverse torque converter, then to the transmission lubri-
band are off the apply position. When the direct cating system and back into the transmission oil
clutch is applied the kickdown sun gear is locked pan. See Figure 44. The front pump is connected
to the input shaft and both rotate at the same directly to the impeller of the torque converter by
speed. Figure 42. a driving sleeve. The rear pump is connected to
the output shaft of the transmission, but does not
The kickdown annulus gear is splined to the operate unless the output shaft is turning.
input shaft. Since the annulus and sun gear are
locked together the entire kickdown planet gear Oil leaves the front pump and is directed
set rotates as a solid unit. through the regulator valve. This valve controls
oil pressure to 90 p.s.i., which is the required oil
The kickdown planet carrier and reverse planet pressure to operate the direct clutch and front and
carrier also rotate at the same speed, since both rear bands when the transmission is in drive or
are locked together by splines in the reverse band low. The oil, under 90 p.s.i. flows from the regulator
drum. valve to the torque converter control valve which
The reverse sun gear is splined to the input reduces the oil pressure to 60 p.s.i. before it enters
shaft. Since the reverse sun gear is locked to the the torque converter. The converter pressure is
reverse planet carrier, the reverse planetary gear- maintained at 60 p.s.i. by torque converter outlet
set rotates as a solid unit. With both the kickdown valve assembly in the converter oil return passage
and reverse planetary gearsets locked together, in the transmission. This valve prevents cavitation.
the power flow is straight through the transmis- Cooling of the oil in the torque converter is ac-
sion, resulting in a 1 to 1 gear ratio. complished by fins welded to the impeller housing
REVERSE — When the panel control is placed which dissipate heat to the outside air. The oil is
in the Reverse (R) position, the reverse band is directed under pressure from the torque converter
applied, locking the kickdown and reverse planet to various parts of the transmission where lubrica-
carriers stationary. See Figure 43. The direct clutch tion is essential. It then drops down into the trans-
and kickdown band are disengaged. The power mission oil pan.
flow is through the input shaft to the reverse sun Circulation through the torque converter and
gear. Since the reverse planet carrier is held sta- transmission is maintained at all times regardless
tionary, the reverse annulus gear and output shaft of the position of the selector lever. The front pump
are driven by the reverse planet gears in a reverse provides all lubrication in the transmission until
direction at a reduced speed. The transmission car speed reaches approximately 40 miles per
gear ratio in reverse is 2.39 to 1. hour. At speeds above approximately 40 miles per
hour the rear pump provides the necessary lubri-
NEUTRAL—When the panel control is placed in
cation.
Neutral (N) position, the direct clutch, kickdown
band and reverse band are released. Since the DRIVE—BREAKAWAY—Placing the panel con-
gears of the planetary gearset are not locked trol in Drive (D), positions the manual valve so
together and the other units are in the released that oil flows to the apply side of the kickdown
position, power cannot be transmitted to the out- piston. When this occurs, the kickdown band is
put shaft. All gears are, however, free to rotate applied and the transmission is in Low. The direct
and sounds caused by the units revolving may be clutch and reverse band are disengaged at this
audible. time. See Figure 45.
MyMopar.com
Oil, under pressure (90 p.s.i.) from the manual increases, a greater oil pressure is applied to the
valve is also directed to the throttle pressure valve, governor pressure area of the shift valve.
thence to the throttle pressure area of the kick-
If accelerator pedal pressure is relatively light,
down piston. This valve is a regulating type of
throttle pressure will be low and a low governor
valve which provides variable oil pressure over
pressure will offset throttle pressure and shift
a range of approximately 15 p.s.i. to 90 p.s.i.
valve spring to cause an upshift at low speeds.
As the car engine accelerates, the engine torque However if accelerator pedal pressure is heavy, a
increases and a greater force is required to hold high road speed is necessary to provide a corre-
the kickdown band. The function of the throttle spondingly greater governor pressure to cause an
valve is to provide the required additional oil upshift.
pressure to the kickdown piston to prevent kick-
down band slippage. DRIVE — DOWNSHIFT — Downshifting (kick-
down) the transmission to low, selector lever in
The amount of oil pressure applied to the throttle Drive (D), is accomplished by the addition of a kick-
pressure area of the kickdown piston is propor- down valve in the system. See Figure 47. The valve
tional to the carburetor throttle opening as deter- includes a valve ball, valve spring and kickdown
mined by the position of the accelerator pedal. valve rod. The kickdown valve spring and throttle
This is accomplished by mechanical linkage be- pressure hold the ball seated in its closed position
tween the carburetor and transmission. at all times except during kickdown.
DRIVE—DIRECT—Upshifting the transmission is When the accelerator pedal is pressed to the
accomplished by the shift valve which directs oil floor the throttle valve cam contacts the kickdown
under pressure to the direct clutch and also to the valve rod which in turn pushes the kickdown valve
off area of the kickdown piston. See Figure 46. ball off its seat. This action allows oil under pres-
When the upshift occurs the direct clutch is sure to bypass the valve ball and apply pressure
applied at the same time the kickdown band is to the throttle pressure area of the shift valve.
released.
This additional pressure coupled with the pres-
As the car speed increases in Drive (D), the sure of the shift valve spring moves the shift valve
position of the accelerator pedal results in a build against governor pressure. The shift valve instant-
up of throttle pressure against one end of the shift ly moves into the downshifted position without
valve which holds the shift valve in the down- hesitation. As the shift valve snaps into the down-
shifted position. In order for the transmission to shifted position, the oil passage leading to the
upshift into direct drive, governor pressure must direct clutch piston and to the off area of the kick-
increase enough to overcome throttle pressure and down piston is blocked off. A port in the valve body
the shift valve spring and move the shift valve to is opened, allowing oil to drain from the direct
the upshifted position. As the valve moves, oil clutch and the off area of the kickdown piston. In
passages in the valve body are opened to provide addition, pressure to the on area of the kickdown
oil pressure to apply the direct clutch and to flow piston applies the front band. When this occurs, the
to the off side of the kickdown piston and release transmission is downshifted into low and will re-
the kickdown band. When pressure from the main downshifted until car speed exceeds 43 to 55
throttle valve and governor valve acts on the shift miles per hour. Above this speed the transmission
valve to initiate an upshift, the valve snaps to will upshift into direct drive.
the upshifted position without hesitation. The
The line restrictor and pressure bleed orifice
valve will remain in upshifted position unless the
serve to reduce throttle pressure to 75 P.S.I, in
transmission is intentionally downshifted or the
order to prevent downshifting the transmission at
car speed is reduced below approximately 10
too high a speed. The excess oil is channeled
miles per hour. When the car speed falls below
through a vent into the transmission oil pan. The
10 miles per hour the shift valve spring is strong
75 P.S.I, limit to the throttle pressure area of the
enough to downshift the valve against governor
shift valve is sufficient to overcome governor pres-
pressure which drops off as the car slows down.
sure at a car speed below 40 miles per hour. At
The governor is mounted on the transmission higher speeds governor pressure exceeds 75 p.s.i.
output shaft and incorporates a valve in the gov- and holds the shift valve in its upshifted position.
ernor body. As output shaft speed (car speed) (Continued on page 307)
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 303
•LUC- (
YELLOW-(CONVERTER) - •O PSI
DOTT!O YllLOW¯lLU·l>- 10-20 PJI
DOTTEO • l U ( <>UM»SUCTI©*>·O·SWI
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
NEUTRAL WITH
ENGINE RUNNING
GOVERNOR
OIL STRAINER
55P1278
LEGEND
• W E (LINC)-·O M l
DOTTED •LUC (PUMP SUCTION)
YELLOW (CONVERTER)" » O · O
OOTTCO YELLOW <LU·I>
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
NEUTRAL
ENGINE RUNNING
NOTE -
1956 MODELS A-B-CDE ARE
METERING HOLES 56P215
OIL STRAINER
Figure 44 — PowerFl¡te Oil Flow Diagram

(Neutral)
MyMopar.com
LEVER IN DRIVE
OIL STRAINER
55P1279
LEOENO
• LUC <LIMt>-tO M l
DOTTED •LUE (PUMP •UCTIO«I
YELLOW (CONVERTER)
DOTTED YELLOW ( L U I C )
•KEEN (THROTTLE
• ROWN ( · 0 V E R N 0 R ) - 0 - · 0 M I
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DRIVE (BREAKAWAY)
NOTE ¯
A-8-C·0-E ARE
OIL STRAINER
Figure 45 — PowerFI¡te Oil Flow Diagram

(Drive-Breakaway)
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 305
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DIRECT
NOTE.
A-B-C¯D€-ARE
METERING HOLES
55P1280
LEGEND
•LUC <LIW>¯»O M l
OOTT(O •LUE (PUMP SUCTION)
YILLOW (COHVINTIM)·>O-·O M
OOTTIO VILLOW (LU·I>
•RUN (TMMOTTLI)-l·-tOMI
MOWN (·OVfRNOft)·O·tOMI
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DRIVE (DIRECT)
MOTE-
A···CD-E ARE
OIL STRAINER
Figure 46 — PowerFlite Oil Flow Diagram

(Drive-Direct)
MyMopar.com
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
KICK DOWN
OILSTRAtCR ¾S¾‰ GOVEfiNOft 55P1281
LEGEND
• LUC (LINE>-·O M l
DOTTED • L U I (PUMP •UCTION)
YELLOW (CONVERTER)-!O-·O Ptl
DOTTED YELLOW ( L U · E )
•REEN (THftOTTLE)·IS-tOPSI
MOWN ( · 0 V E R N 0 R ) · O · O PSI
DOTTED •REE* (K.O. LIMIT)-T6 PH
SERVO
RESTRICTOR
VALVE
CONVERTER
CONTROL VALVE
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DRIVE (KICKDOWN)
NOTE -
A B C D-E ARE
OIL STRAINER
Figure 47 — PowerFlite Oil Flow Diagram

(Drive¯K¡ckdown)
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 307
HYDRAULIC OPERATION RESTRICTION "D"—This restriction prevents

(Continued from page 302) line pressure (90 p.s.i.) from entering the throttle
pressure lines when the transmission is in Low (L).
LOW—When the panel control is placed in the Any line pressure that does bleed through the re-
low (L) position, the manual valve is located so striction is vented out through the throttle valve. In
that line pressure (90 p.s.i.) is directed to the low this way throttle pressure is maintained, depend-
range side of the shift valve, and to the on area ing upon the position of the accelerator pedal
of the kickdown piston, thus applying the kick- which is connected to the throttle valve by me-
down band. The combined oil pressures in their chanical linkage.
respective shift valve chambers result in a greater
combined force than the maximum force of gover- RESTRICTION "E"—This restriction prevents oil
nor pressure. This prevents the governor pressure pressure in the direct clutch and the off area of
from moving the shift valve, thus the transmission the kickdown piston from flowing out all at once
remains in the downshifted position at all times during kickdown. This slowing down action of the
when the panel control is in low (L). See Figure 48. restrictor enables the direct clutch to remain en-
gaged until the kickdown band is partially applied.
REVERSE—When the panel control is placed in
Reverse (R), the manual valve is positioned so SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE—The servo re-
that oil pressure normally directed to the secon- strictor valve slows down the application of the
dary reaction area of the regulator is blocked off. kickdown band during a downshift with the accel-
Thus oil pressure normally directed to the secon- erator pedal released. This occurs at approximate-
dary reaction area of the regulator is blocked off. ly 10 miles per hour. The slowing down action
Thus oil pressure from the front pump is directed prevents harsh application of the kickdown band
through the manual valve to the primary reaction which would disrupt the smooth change of gears
area of the regulator valve. Line pressure builds during downshift.
up to 250 p.s.i. and when this pressure is reached,
SERVO PRESSURE BLEED VALVE—The servo
excess oil bypasses the regulator valve to the suc-
pressure bleed valve slows down the application
tion side of the front pump. See Figure 49.
of the front band during a kickdown at higher car
In addition, movement of the manual valve to speeds providing a smooth change of gears.
Reverse (R) also opens a port in the manual valve
SHUTTLE VALVE—The shuttle valve has two
allowing oil at 250 p.s.i. to the reverse servo. The
separate functions, and performs them independ-
rear band is immediately applied and the trans-
ently of each other. The first is that of providing
mission is in Reverse (R). The reverse servo piston
fast and smooth direct clutch engagement when
spring releases the reverse band when the selector
the driver makes an upshift after accelerating
lever is moved out of the Reverse (R) position.
rapidly and then allowing the throttle to close
completely. Without the shuttle valve, the resulting
LINE RESTRICTIONS AND RESTRICTOR
VALVES
upshift would consist of a series of lurches, caused
first by the braking effect on the car of the kick-
In addition to the main valves mentioned in the down gear and then by the too-hard engagement
hydraulic operation of the PowerFlite Transmis- of the direct clutch.
sion, line restrictions and line restrictor valves are
incorporated in the transmission hydraulic system Under conditions of closed throttle (low throttle
to smooth out the operation of the unit. See Figure pressure) and high car speed (high governor pres-
48 for location of the restrictors. sure) the shuttle valve is forced to its extreme limit
of travel. In this position, oil is allowed to flow
RESTRICTION "A"—This restriction cushions the from the kickdown band piston to the direct clutch.
actions of direct clutch application and the release Because the kickdown piston is being fed oil only
of the front band during upshift. through the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve,
pressure on this piston drops to a low value while
RESTRICTIONS "B" AND "C"—Pressure to the
oil from the shuttle valve and from the shift valve
shift valve is reduced to 75 p.s.i. by the use of these
build up pressure on the direct clutch and the "off"
two restrictions, thus preventing kickdown at too
great a car speed. (Continued on page 310)
MyMopar.com
M.UC- ( U N O - M M l
•NUN · (TMI·OTTLE>-ll-·O M l
M « m · MOVE MM*) - O·tO M l
YELLOW - (CONVERTS*) - •o M I
0OTTI0 YELLOW - ILUM)¯IO· 10 Ml
LEVER IN LOW
OOCRNON
C4LSTRAI«R
55P1282
LEGEND
• L U I (UNE>-·O M l
0OTTI0 •LUC (PUMP SUCTION)
YELLOW (CONVERTER)-SO-·O M l
DOTTED YELLOW ( L U · I )
•MEN (TMHOTTLE)-l·-tOMI
• MOWN («OVENNOR>-O·O M l
CONTROL SY9TEM IN
LOW
NOTE -
A-B-C·D·E ARE
OIL STRAINER
Figure 48 — PowerFlite Oil Flow Diagram—(Low)

MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 309
LEGEND
"CO - (*CVtftSC)-t»O PSI
OOTTCO •LUC-IPUMr SUCTIO·O-0-»PSI
YCLlOW-(CONVEftTCR)¯«O Ptl
OOTTtD Y£LLOW<LU·C)-K>ÍOMI
LEVER IN REVERSE
GOVERNOR
OIL$TRANER 55P1283
LIOENO
RED (RCVIRSE) H O M l
OOTTtO •LWt (PUMP WCTIOM>
VtLLO« (CONVIRTIR)· »O¯·O P»l
OOTTIO VILLOW ( L U · I I
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
REVERSE
OIL STRAINER
56P22O
Figure 49 — PowerFI¡te Oil Flow Diagram

(Reverse)
MyMopar.com
LINE RESTRICTORS AND RESTRICTOR REAR EXTENSION BREATHFR
r
VALVES TORQUE CONVERTER
OUTLET VALVE LUBRICATION PRESSURE
TAKE OFF PLUG
area of the kickdown piston. The kickdown band
LINE PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG
load is then reduced sufficiently to allow the band KiCKDOWN BAND ADJUSTING SCREW
to slip. In the meantime, the direct clutch has built THROTTLE CONTROL ÕLJtà . ì
up enough pressure load to complete a smooth LEVER A S S Y | f ¾
MANUAL CONTROL
engagement. LEVER ASSY | |
The second function of the shuttle valve is to

regulate the application of the kickdown piston
when making kickdowns. Kickdowns made at low r=s¾ajf GOV
GOVERNOR
NEUTRAL SWITCH PRESSURE
car speeds require very little time in which to com- TAKEOFF
THROTTLE VALVE PLUG
plete the shift due to the comparatively small ADJUSTING SCREW PLUG 55P1237
change in engine speed between direct drive and
kickdown gear. The higher the car speed at which Figure 50 — View Showing Left Side of
the kickdown shift is made, the longer is the time Transmission
required to make a smooth shift. The shuttle valve
controls the engagement according to car speed.
for correct location of this plug. Install 100 p.s.i.

8. POWERFLITE HYDRAULIC pressure gauge C-3292 at this point. Refer to gover-
PRESSURE TESTS nor pressure chart for correct pressures. If pressure
checks do not correspond to chart, refer to Diag-
LINE PRESSURE nosis Procedures.
The engine must be at operating temperature
when checking pressures. Remove the 1/8 inch
pipe plug from the line pressure take-off hole lo- LINE PRESSURE CHART
cated on the front left side of the transmission. See
Selector Rear Engine Line
Figure 50 for location of plug. Install a 300 p.s.i. Position Wheels R.P.M. Pressure
pressure gauge C-3293 at this point. Refer to chart
for correct line pressures. R Free to Turn 1600 250 p.s.i.
N 800 90 p.s.i.
THROTTLE PRESSURE D Brakes Applied 800 90 p.s.i.
L Brakes Applied 800 90 p.s.i.
Remove the 1/8 inch pipe plug from the throttle
pressure take-off hole located on the right hand
side of the transmission. See Figure 51 for correct
location of plug. Install 100 p.s.i. pressure gauge
C-3292 at this point. Operate engine at speeds THROTTLE PRESSURE CHART
shown on throttle pressure chart. If pressures do Selector Engine Throttle
Brakes Throttle
not correspond, refer to Diagnosis Procedures. Position R.P.M. Pressure
D Applied Closed 450 14 p.s.i.
D Applied Wide-open 1500 90 p.s.i.
CAUTION
To prevent overheating of transmission and

torque converter, do not hold throttle wide-
open for more than a few seconds when mak- GOVERNOR PRESSURE CHART
ing throttle pressure check.
Selector Car
Speed Governor
Lever Wheels
Pressure
Position P-26 P-27
GOVERNOR PRESSURE
D Free to Turn 12-14 13-16 15 p.s.i.
Remove the 1/8 inch pipe plug from the gover- D Free to Turn 19-23 23-26 45 p.s.i.
nor pressure take-off hole located on the lower left D Free to Turn 41-48 55-62 60 p.s.i.
side of the output shaft support. See Figure 50
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 3TÌ
THROTTLE PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG

TORQUE CONVERTER
CONTROL VALVE
BACK-UP LIGHT
SWITCH
` ¶ TRANSMISSION 1
REGULATOR VALVE
DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE-

TAKE OFF PLUG
55?1238
Figure 51 — V i e w Showing Right Side of

Transmission Figure 52 — Push Button Control Unit
DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE the instrument panel. The other end enters the
transmission case to engage the manual control
Before checking direct clutch pressure, check
valve lever assembly.
line pressure since any deviation in line pressure
directly affects clutch pressure. Then, remove the The push button control is as simple to service
1/8 inch pipe plug from direct clutch pressure as it is to operate. The push button control unit
take-off hole located at the bottom of the kickdown requires no lubrication. The adjustment is easily
servo boss on the right side of the transmission. made at the transmission end of the cable. The
See Figure 51 for correct location of plug. Connect transmission end of the cable housing enters the
a 300 p.s.i. pressure gauge C-3293 at this point. transmission case and is sealed at this point with
With rear wheels free to turn, accelerate engine a rubber "O" ring. The cable housing is protected
slowly until an upshift occurs. During the upshift, with a rubber cover.
the pressure should rise rapidly from 0 to 90 p.s,i.
in 1 1/2 to 2 seconds. CABLE REMOVAL — PUSH BUTTON END — To
remove the cable at the push button unit end, re-
With an engine speed of not less than 650 R.P.M. move the three bezel attaching screws, then remove
and transmission upshifted, the direct clutch pres- the bezel and push buttons. Remove the two hex
sure should read within 10 p.s.i. of line pressure. nuts holding the push button unit to the instrument
If difference is greater than 10 p.s.i. refer to Diag- panel and remove push button unit from rear of
nosis Procedures. the instrument panel. The cable bracket is held by
two screws to the push button unit. A hairpin clip
secures the cable to the actuator bar.
9. POWERFLITE LINKAGE AND
CABLE REMOVAL—TRANSMISSION END—Re-
BAND ADJUSTMENTS
move throttle adjustment hole plug and allow
transmission fluid to drain off to level of hole.
PUSH BUTTON CONTROLS AND LINKAGE
Remove neutral starter switch to provide access to
Mechanical connection between the push button the cable lock spring. Remove cable bracket screw
unit (See Figure 52) and the manual control valve and bracket. Insert screwdriver (or similar tool)
is obtained through the use of a single push pull through neutral switch hole. Push gently on pro-
cable. One end of the wire cable is secured to the jecting portion of cable lock spring and pull out-
cable actuator in the speed range selector unit on ward on cable.
MyMopar.com
SCREWDRIVER ¶
PUSH BUTTON CONTROL CABLE C A B L E L O CK
OPERATING LOCK PAWL CABLE ADAPTER SPRING CLIP
SLIDES ACTUATOR
CONTROL CABLE
IP
CABLE
CABLE
56P189
BRACKET
m
Figure 53 — Speed Range Selector (Top View) Figure 55 — Removal of Control Cable
INSTALLATION—TRANSMISSION END—When to make sure the low range detent is fully seated.
installing the cable in the transmission, be sure the The panel control and the transmission are now
cable is fully extended by pushing the low (L) but- both in low range. Lock the cable in place by tight-
ton. With the cable extended, the housing will ening the cable bracket screw being careful not to
enter the transmission case the proper distance move the cable.
preventing damage or possible displacement of
CABLE ADJUSTMENT —WITHOUT REMOVAL
the "O" ring if the housing was inserted too far.
—Loosen the cable bracket screw (the cable
Push the cable into the cable adaptor as far as it bracket screw hole is elongated for adjustment)
will go; pull outward on the cable to make sure it have someone hold the low (L) speed push button in
is securely locked in the adaptor. Push the low (L) its full length of travel to remove backlash from the
button in the full length of its travel and hold in cable actuator. Carefully position the cable bracket
this position. With the low (L) button held in push in the cable bracket recess on the cable and tighten
the control cable into the adaptor in the transmis- screw. Check operation of push buttons to insure
sion as far as it will go. Withdraw the cable slightly correct adjustment.
CABLE TO SELECTOR UNIT

CONTROL CABLE ADAPTER CLIP
BRACKET AND ATTACHING
SCREWS
HOUSING
CABLE
ADAPTER
CABLE
ACTUATOR CABLE
CABLE LOCKING CLIP

56PÌ88 REVERSE BLOCKER VALVE ASSEMBLY
Figure 54 — Speed Range Selector Figure 56 — Control Cable Adaptor and

Reverse Blocker Valve
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 313
CONTROL CABLE PUSH BUTTON CONTROL CABLE

ADJUSTMENT BRACKET
Figure 57 — Control Cable Bracket Figure 58 — Adjusting PowerFlite Gearshift

Selector Lever
CAUTION
THROTTLE LINKAGE AND PRESSURE
Make swre the control cable housing is not
ADJUSTMENTS
moved in or out during the tightening of the
bracket as the backlash setting will be dis· Adjustments are made in the engine compart-
turbed. ment, however, the linkage should always be
checked for possible binding by checking at the
throttle lever on the transmission to make sure
REVERSE BLOCKER VALVE—A hydraulic valve lever returns freely to its stop. When throttle link-
located in the valve body prevents the transmis- age is properly adjusted, pressing the accelerator
sion from being shifted into Reverse (R) range pedal causes a simultaneous increase of engine
when the car is traveling forward at speeds above speed and throttle pressure. To obtain this rela-
10 miles per hour. tionship, throttle pressure as well as throttle link-
age should be checked.
The blocker valve is connected to the governor
pressure line and is held in by a spring. As the Move the selector lever in Neutral. Apply park-
car's speed reaches 10 miles per hour governor ing brake firmly. Start the engine and bring to
pressure builds up enough to overcome the spring normal operating temperature. Make sure that
and moves the valve pin outward. This extension the carburetor is not on fast-idle cam. Adjust engine
of the blocker valve serves as a stop and prevents idle to 475-500 rpm. Stop engine.
the detent plate from moving into the Reverse (R)
range position by engaging a projection on the Arrange tachometer leads for use under the car.
detent plate. Start engine, then raise car on hoist. Remove the
throttle oil pressure take-off plug (1/8 inch pipe)
located between the reverse and kickdown servos
GEARSHIFT SELECTOR LEVER ADJUSTMENTS on the right side of the transmission. Connect 100
P-26—P-27
p.s,i. throttle pressure gauge C-3292. There will be
no oil pressure at this plug when transmission is
There should be 1/32 inch clearance between in neutral.
the selector lever and the gate at the instrument
panel, with the transmission in neutral. Adjust- Move the gearshift control lever on transmission
ment is made at the end of the gearshift lever rod one detent toward the front of the car to put the
on the engine side of the firewall. Loosen the ad- transmission in Drive range. Disconnect the throt-
justment nuts and place the transmission shift tle linkage at the transmission throttle control lever
lever in neutral position. Tighten the front adjust- and operate the throttle control lever several times
ment nut to provide clearance on the instrument by hand. Pressure should return to 13-15 p.s.i. with
panel, then tighten the rear nut. Check for full throttle lever returned to its stop. If it does not,
detent engagement at transmission. See Figure 58. adjust as follows:
MyMopar.com
THROTTLE PRESSURE
ADJUSTING SCREW
WRENCH C-3279A
LOW PRESSURE
G A G E C-3292
Figure 59 — Adjusting Throttle Pressure with Figure 61 —Adjusting PowerFlow 6

Wrench C¯3279A Throttle Linkage
Remove the (3/8 inch pipe) throttle valve adjust- and slide the rear part of the rod toward the rear
ing screw plug on the left side of the transmission. of the car to take up all slack. Then tighten the
About one quart of fluid may drain out. Using clamp nut. Be sure carburetor is "off" the fast idle
throttle adjusting screw wrench C-3279A adjust cam.
the throttle pressure to 14 p.s.i. See Figure 59. Turn
the screw counterclockwise to increase pressure;
clockwise to decrease. Shift the transmission sev-
IMPORTANT
eral times between Neutral and Drive. Pressure
should return to 14 p.s.i. when the lever is returned One of the most important adjustments is
to Drive. If it does not, repeat the adjustment. Rein- the connection between the two parts of the
stall the plug and tighten to 20 to 25 ft.-lbs. throttle control rod. They should be so con-
nected that movement of the accelerator pedal
After throttle pressure is adjusted, adjust the
will cause a simultaneous increase of engine
throttle control linkage as follows;
speed and throttle pressure.
HY-FIRE V-B—THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUST-
MENT—The throttle linkage adjustment is made
on the throttle control rod as shown in Figure 60.
POWERFLOW 6—Throttle Linkage Adjustment
Loosen the clamp nut on the throttle control rod
—Loosen the vertical clamp rod and adjust the car-
buretor throttle lever rod to provide 5 7/16 inches
distance between the anchor points of the throttle
return spring. Then with engine idling, (off fast
idle), take up slack at the vertical rod and tighten
the clamp nut. See Figure 61.
After adjustments are made, move the gear-
shift control lever on transmission one detent to-
ward rear of the car to put the transmission into
neutral. Remove the pressure gauge and reinstall
the plug. Tighten 10 to 12 foot-pounds.
With engine idling and transmission in neutral
check transmission lubricant level. Add sufficient
automatic transmission fluid type A to bring the
level up to the "low" mark. As operating tempera-
ture increases, normal expansion of fluid will
Figure 60 — Adjusting Hy¯F¡re V¯8 Throttle raise the level from the "low" mark to the "full"
Linkage mark.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 315
DISCONNECT THROTTLE
ROD FROM THROTTLE LEVER
3U2áä
Figure 62 — Adjusting K¡ckdown Band — Figure 63 — Adjusting Reverse Band —
Using Wrench C¯338O Using Wrench C¯338O
KICKDOWN BAND ADJUSTMENT 4. Attach an electric tachometer to the engine.

Move panel control to drive (D), checking speed
Working from beneath the car, use a box wrench and smoothness of engagement. Apply both hand-
to loosen locknut, and back off at least four turns. brake and footbrakes and check for band slippage
Adjust screw and tighten to 60-72 inch-pounds, at wide open throttle. Do not hold at wide open
using special torque wrench C-3380. With chalk, throttle for longer than a few seconds.
mark a reference point on the adjusting screw and 5. Accelerate the car at very light throttle. The
transmission case, then back off adjusting screw transmission should upshift at 13 to 18 M.P.H.
exactly three turns. Hold screw stationary and 6. Slow the car to approximately 15 M.P.H.,
tighten locknut. See Figure 62. then go quickly to wide open throttle (without
going into kickdown). Check for possible clutch
REVERSE BAND ADJUSTMENT slippage. The transmission should not downshift
at this time.
Drain transmission and remove oil pan. Remove 7. Make a kickdown at 15 to 20 M.P.H.
reverse band adjusting screw locknut and tighten 8. Release the accelerator to approximately half
adjusting screw to 20-25 inch pounds using special throttle so that the transmission upshifts at 25 to
tool C-3380. Mark a reference point and back off 30 M.P.H.
adjusting screw 10 turns. Hold adjusting screw, 9. Make a kickdown at 30 to 40 M.P.H. Release
replace locknut and tighten to 30-35 foot-pounds. the accelerator to closed throttle. (PowerFlow 6)
See Figure 63. Replace oil pan and refill trans- 10. Make a kickdown at 45 M.P.H. Release the
mission with type "A" automatic transmission accelerator to closed throttle. (Hy-Fire V-8)
fluid.
11. At 40 to 50 M.P.H. move the panel control to
(L). The transmission should downshift.
ROAD-TESTING 12. Move panel control back to (D) at approxi-
mately 20 M.P.H. (The transmission will upshift.)
The following procedure will provide a step-by- Coast to a stop. The transmission should down-
step method of checking the transmission for shift at 10 to 12 M.P.H.
proper operation such as panel control positions,
smoothness of upshift and downshift, throttle link-
10. SERVICING POWERFLITE
age adjustment, kickdown shifting and reverse
operation. TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE
VALVE BODY AND TRANSFER PLATE
1. Move panel control through all positions.
Check lever to see that it agrees with the gate and Drain transmission and then reinstall drain plug,
the trnsmission detents (on 1955 models). tightening to 20 to 25 foot-pounds torque. Remove
2. With panel control in (N), start the engine. the oil pan filler tube from the oil pan. Remove the
3. Move the panel control to (R), noting the eighteen pan screws and washers, then remove
speed and smoothness of the shift. Back car up. pan and gasket.
MyMopar.com
Disconnect the throttle and manual control lever

linkage from levers. Loosen the throttle and man-
ual control lever assembly locking screws. Slide
the throttle valve operating lever assembly off
shaft and remove the throttle valve camshaft felt
retainer and felt. Slide the manual valve lever as-
sembly off shaft and remove manual valve lever
shaft seal and cover.
Remove the two oil strainer support screws and
washers. Remove the strainer assembly from the
valve body and transfer plate assembly. Five
screws attach the transfer plate to transmission
case. Remove plate assembly. See Figure 64. Refer
to page 340 for complete service information of
the valve body and transfer plate assembly.
Figure 65 — Install Tool C¯3277 to Install
If it is necessary to replace the manual control Oil Seal
valve lever shaft oil seal, drive the seal out of
transmission from below, using a suitable size
brass drift. Inspect the bore for burrs or nicks and of lever against cover. Tighten lock screw. Install
remove with crocus cloth if necessary. Using tool throttle valve armshaft felt and retainer. Then
C-3277 start new seal, straighten and tighten until install throttle valve lever assembly and tighten
seal is flush with transmission case. See Figure 65. lock screw. Check operation of lever for drag by
shifting in all positions. Check position and opera-
Before installing assembly on transmission, in- tion of throttle valve lever. Check lever contact on
spect mating surfaces for dirt or burrs. The two neutral starter and back up light switches. Rein-
1 5/8 inch screws are installed through the transfer stall oil pan.
plate cover on the valve body. The three 11/8 inch
screws are installed through the transfer plate KICKDOWN PISTON
cover. Tighten screws finger tight and then tighten
to 12 to 17 foot pounds. To remove the kickdown piston, first drain fluid
from transmission oil pan. Remove pan and valve
Install oil strainer tubes in position and install body and transfer plate assembly. Loosen band
both 11/4 inch screws and lockwashers. Tighten adjusting screw. Compress the band ends and
12 to 17 foot pounds. Place seal cover over the remove kickdown band strut. Install tool C-3289 on
manual valve lever shaft and slide into position. transmission case. See Figure 66. Tighten com-
Install manual control lever on shaft with arm side pressing screw on special tool enough so that
the kickdown piston rod guide snap ring can be
removed. Use screwdriver for this purpose. Loosen
compressing tool and remove kickdown piston
assembly. Refer to page 332 for complete servicing
procedure of kickdown piston.
REVERSE SERVO
To remove the reverse servo, first drain fluid

from transmission oil pan. Then remove pan and
valve body and transfer plate assembly. Loosen
the reverse band adjusting screws. Compress the
band ends and remove the reverse band strut. It
may be necessary to tap the strut lightly to free it.
Remove the reverse servo piston sleeve. Install
tool C-3289 and compress piston spring. See Fig-
ure 66. Remove snap ring with screwdriver. Piston
assembly can be removed after loosening com-
Figure 64 — Removing or Installing Transfer pressing tool. Refer to page 331 for complete serv-
Plate Assembly icing procedure of reverse servo.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 317
6" APPROX.
¾"¯H APPROX.
DRILL ¾" DIAM. HOLE

AND ELONGATE AS SHOWN
45x2088
Figure 66 — Install Tool C¯3289 as Shown Figure 67 — Plan for Making Gearset
to Remove Reverse Servo Holding Tool
GOVERNOR slipping out of the hole as the valve is withdrawn.

Refer to page 331 for servicing valve assembly.
To remove the governor for servicing it is neces-
When installing spring retainer, tighten to 45 to
sary to remove the extension housing
50 foot pounds.
Disconnect battery and raise vehicle off floor.
Drain transmission fluid and remove pan. Discon- TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE
nect the front propeller shaft universal joint and
Remove the spring retainer, gasket and spring.
wire shaft out of the way. Remove brake drum
Use a piece of welding rod to retrieve the control
assembly. Remove speedometer pinion from trans-
valve. Refer to page 331 for complete servicing.
mission extension. Remove the nuts that hold the
When installing spring retainer, tighten to 35 to
engine rear support insulator to the crossmem-
ber. Install engine support fixture, tool C-3245. 40 foot pounds. The torque converter valve is
located in the regulator valve body of 1956 trans-
Raise the engine slightly, remove crossmember missions.
to frame bolts and remove crossmember. Remove
OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL
transmission oil pan. Move the entire gearset for-
ward by hand. It is important that the gearset be Use puller C-452 to remove the propeller shaft
held in its extreme forward position so that the flange and drum assembly. Remove the transmis-
kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust washer (No. sion support grease shield spring. Remove the
2 thrust washer) does not fall off its pilot on the brake support grease shield from extension hous-
kickdown sun gear, when the extension housing
is removed. Figure 67 is a plan for a tool which
can be made to hold the gearset in position. The
holding tool is installed behind the rear edge of
planet pinion carrier and is attached to the trans-
mission case with a pan screw. See Figure 68.
Remove the seven transmission extension to case
screws and lockwashers. Install guide studs C-3283
and remove housing using puller C-3282. Refer to
page 323 for complete servicing of governor.
TRANSMISSION REGULATOR VALVE

Remove the spring retainer, gasket and spring.
See Figure 106. Use a suitable length of welding
rod to retrieve the valve by placing the rod in the
small hole in the valve. Cock the rod so as to Figure 68 — Gearset Holding Tool Installed
apply a slight pressure to prevent the rod from in Position
MyMopar.com
CO
00
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT TO CASE SCREW

REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLY
GOVERNOR SUPPORT PISTON RINGS REVERSE ANNULUS GEAR
GOVERNOR SUPPORT REVERSE ANNULUS GEAR SNAP RING
GOVERNOR BODY
REVERSE PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY
GOVERNOR LOCATING SCREW OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT TO CASE SCREW LOCKWASHER
KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR SNAP RING
GOVERNOR VALVE
GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT REVERSE BAND ADJUSTING SCREW KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER THRUST WASHER
k.i/` \
GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT SNAP RING r KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR
REVERSE BAND ADJUSTING SCREW LOCKNUT
TRANSMISSION EXTENSION GASKET KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY
EXTENSION TO CASE SCREW LOCKWASHER REVERSE BAND LEVER
KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR STOP RING
EXTENSION TO CASE SCREW REVERSE BAND LEVER SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT
TRANSMISSION EXTENSION HOUSING REVERSE BAND LINK ASSEMBLY
OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEAR REVERSE BAND STRUT

|
OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING SNAP RING
OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL
KICKDOWN PLANET PINION

. CARRIER SNAP RING m
OUTPUT SHAFT
SPEEDOMETER PINION GEAR
SPEEDOMETER PINION SLEEVE •
¯ PLANET PINION CARRIER HOUSING THRUST WASHER
OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL RING
n
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PINION SHAFT ,. \. N. >v PLANET PINION CARRIER HOUSING
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PINION SHAFT PLAIN WASHER REVERSE BAND ASSEMBLY
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PINION SHAFT L O C K - '
'OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT GASKET
EXTENSION BREATHER ` OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT PIPE PLUG
GOVERNOR BODY SCREW OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT
GOVERNOR BODY SCREW LOCKWASHER REAR OIL PUMP PINION BALL
GOVERNOR PRIMARY WEIGHT REAR OIL PUMP PINION
GOVERNOR WEIGHT SPRINC PUMP GEAR
GOVERNOR SECONDARY WEIGHT OIL PUMP HOUSING SCREW LOCKWASHER
GOVERNOR SECONDARY WEIGHT SNAP RING REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING SCREW
GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT SNAP RING
GOVERNOR WEIGHT ASSEMBLY SNAP RING
55P1244
Figure 69 — Transmission Disassembled
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 319
ing. Use care when removing shield. Use puller Disconnect the throttle and manual control link-
C-748 to remove rear bearing oil seal. Inspect age from the levers. Remove screws attaching ex-
inner seal surface of extension housing for burrs. haust pipe bracket to transmission. Remove the
two nuts and lockwashers that hold the engine
Use driver C-3205 to install new seal. Install
rear support insulator to the crossmember, leaving
grease shield. Note indent on shield to match
the insulator attached to the transmission. Install
groove in housing. Install grease shield spring
engine support fixture, tool C-3245. Insert the hooks
making sure spring is seated in groove. Install
of the fixture into the holes in the frame sub side
drum, washers and nut. Apply parking brake and
rail with the support ends up against the underside
tighten flange nut to 140 to 160 foot pounds. Con-
of the oil pan flange. Adjust fixture to support the
nect front propeller shaft universal joint.
weight of the engine and raise engine slightly. See
Figure 70. Remove the crossmember to frame bolts
NEUTRAL STARTER AND BACK-UP and remove the crossmember.
LIGHT SWITCHES
Lower the engine two or three inches. Place
When replacing either switch a suitable con- transmission jack in position and adjust jack to
tainer should be used to catch the transmission oil just support the weight of the transmission as
which will come out when the switches are re- shown in Figure 70. Remove the two upper trans-
moved. mission to torque converter housing screws and
lockwashers and install guide studs C-3276. Re-
move the two lower transmission to torque con-
CAUTION
verter housing screws and lockwashers. Then,
Oil may be extremely hot if car has been using care, slide the transmission straight back to
in operation. prevent damage to drive sleeve. Lower transmis-
sion. Remove the sleeve and inspect the driving
lugs and machined surfaces for wear or burrs.
When installing switches, tighten to 15 to 20 Inspect the interlocking type oil ring and replace
foot pounds. Replace oil which may have been if worn or broken. The oil ring should be free in the
drained. groove.
SPEEDOMETER PINION
TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING REMOVAL
Disconnect speedometer cable and housing
from sleeve assembly on transmission. Remove Remove the torque converter housing-to-adapter
the speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly. In- plate-bolts and lockwashers. Three bolts are lo-
spect nylon gear for wear. When installing pinion cated on the engine side of the adapter plate. The
and sleeve assembly, tighten to 40 to 45 foot housing is doweled to the adapter plate and care
pounds. should be exercised when removing the housing.
11. POWERFLITE—DISASSEMBLY
AND ASSEMBLY
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
Disconnect the battery and raise the car off the
floor. Drain the transmission and torque converter.
Then replace drain plugs and tighten to specified
torque. Disconnect the oil pan filler tube from the
oil pan. Disconnect front universal joint and hang
shaft out of the way. Remove the adjusting screw
cover plate and cable clamp bolt from the hand-
brake support. Disengage the ball end of the cable
from the operating lever and remove the cable
from the brake support. Disconnect the speed-
ometer cable from the transmission extension
housing. Disconnect neutral starter and back-up
light wires from the switches and unclip the wires Figure 70 — Engine Support Fixture and Jack
from the crossmember. Installed in Position
MyMopar.com
CO
OIL PAN FILLER TUBE

KICKDOWN PISTON ROD 1
OIL PAN FILLER TUBE BRACKET
KICKDOWN PISTON I
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR
OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG SPRING
OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG GASKET KICKDOWN PISTON RING—LARGE
OIL PAN KICKDOWN PISTON CUSHION SPRING
OIL PAN SCREW AND WASHER ASSEMBLY KICKDOWN PISTON
OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY KICKDOWN PISTON RING—INTERMEDIATE
K I C K D O W N PISTON RING—SMALL
VALVE BODY AND TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY
REGULATOR VALVE SPRING RETAINER
K I C K D O W N PISTON ROD GUIDE SNAP RING
AND GASKET
KICKDOWN PISTON ROD GUIDE SEAL RING
MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT OIL SEAL
REVERSE SERVO PISTON SPRING RETAINER SNAP RING
REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
REVERSE SERVO PISTON SPRING RETAINER
REGULATOR VALVE SPRING SEAT
REVERSE SERVO PISTON SPRING REGULATOR VALVE
REVERSE SERVO PISTON SLEEVE TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE
REVERSE SERVO PISTON VALVE SPRING SNAP RING SPRING RETAINER AND GASKET
REVERSE SERVO PISTON VALVE SPRING TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE SPRING
REVERSE SERVO PISTON VALVE FRONT OIL PUMP GEAR
FRONT OIL PUMP PINION
REVERSE SERVO PISTON
á FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING SEAL
REVERSE SERVO PISTON RING FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING
OIL PAN GASKET TRANSMISSION FRONT OIL PUMP
TRANSMISSION CASE HOUSING DUST SEAL
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH GASKET FRONT OIL PUMP DRIVE SLEEVE
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH FRONT OIL PUMP DRIVE
SLEEVE SEAL RING
3
KICKDOWN BAND LEVER SHAFT PLUG %f%
K I C K D O W N BAND LEVER SHAFT FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING
K I C K D O W N BAND LEVER SCREW AND LOCKWASHER m
K I C K D O W N BAND STRUT REGULATOR VALVE BODY
TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE
REACTION SHAFT TO CASE SCREW
REACTION SHAFT DOWEL
DIRECT CLUTCH DRIVING DISC ASSEMBLIES TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT SEAL
NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH
NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH GASKET
REACTION SHAFT TO CASE SCREW LOCKWASHER
ƒ
TORQUE CONVERTER OUTLET CHECK VALVE
THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING LEVER AND SCREW NUT
THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING LEVER SCREW AND LOCKWASHER
>
HROTTLE VALVE CAMSHAFT FELT AND RETAINER
JAL VALVE LEVER AND SCREW NUT
MANUAL VALVE LEVER SCREW AND LOCKWASHER
MANUAL VALVE LEVER SHAFT SEAL COVER
KICKDOWN SUN GEAR SNAP RING TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT
KICKDOWN PLANET PINION TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT SEAL RINGS
CARRIER THRUST WASHER DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER THRUST WASHER
K I C K D O W N BAND ADJUSTING SCREW A N D LOCKNUT
KICKDOWN SUN GEAR ASSEMBLY
KICKDOWN BAND
DIRECT CLUTCH PLATES DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER SEAL RING
DIRECT CLUTCH HUB
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON SEAL RING.
DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING RETAINER SNAP RING DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON
DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING RETAINË DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING
55P1245
Figure 71—Transmission Disassembled
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 321
45x2091
Figure 7 2 — Checking Torque Converter Figure 73 — Removing Staking Lugs from Ring
Hub Runout Gear and Torque Converter
Do not hammer or pry between the flanges to

loosen it since this will distort the metal and re-
sult in misalignment. Carefully move the housing BRASS DRIFT
straight back to avoid damage to the torque con-

verter.
Inspect the mating surfaces of the adapter plate
and torque converter housing and remove any
burrs or rough spots with emery cloth.
CONVERTER HUB RUNOUT

Mount a dial indicator on the adapter plate as
shown in Figure 72. Converter hub runout should
45x2092
not exceed .004 inch. The indicator plunger should
bear on the hub of the converter ¼ inch forward
Figure 74 — Removing Ring Gear from
of the rear edge.
Torque Converter
TORQUE CONVERTER UNIT REMOVAL
Remove the six bolts that hold the metal dust

shield to the adapter plate and lift the shield out. RING GEAR INSTALLATION
Remove the eight nuts and lockwashers that hold Listed below are three recommended methods
the converter unit to the crankshaft using special which may be used to heat the starter ring gear
wrench C-811. The torque converter assembly is a for installation on the torque converter.
welded unit and cannot be serviced except as an
assembly. J. OVEN—When available, use Oven C-794.
Set the temperature at 150° F. Allow the ring to
RING GEAR REMOVAL remain in the oven approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
2. BOILING WATER—lí boiling water is used,
To replace the ring gear it will first be necessary place the ring gear in a shallow container and
to remove the torque converter from the crank-
heat for approximately 8 minutes after the water
shaft. Carefully remove the staking lugs which
starts to boil.
retain the ring gear to the converter with a file.
Using a blunt drift, tap around the ring gear until 3. STEAM—When steam is to be used, place
the gear is free of the converter. Remove any burrs the ring gear on a flat surface and direct the steam
or rough spots from the gear contact surface of flow around the ring gear for approximately two
the converter with a file. See Figures 73 and 74. minutes.
MyMopar.com
Place the starter ring gear over the gear sur-

face of the converter. Make certain that the rear
face of the gear contacts the flange on the conver-
ter evenly around the entire circumference. Weld
the gear to the converter. Space the welds evenly
and use approximately the same amount of metal
at each weld.
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION
Cleanliness is essential during disassembly of

transmission. Clean all external surfaces of trans-
mission with steam if possible. During disassem-
bly all parts should be cleaned in a suitable sol-
vent and dried with compressed air only. Use care 45x2095 I
when handling parts as they are removed to pre-
vent damage to them. Figure 76 — Checking End Clearance with
Gauge C-430
Remove the oil pan and oil pan gasket. Loosen
the throttle and manual control lever assembly
lock screw. Slide the lever assembly off the shaft
and remove the shaft seal cover. back. Measure distance between the direct clutch
assembly and planet pinion carrier. Subtract the
Remove the two oil strainer to transmission case second measurement from the first to obtain the
screws and washers. Lift off strainer and inspect end clearance. Allowable clearance is .026 to .052
both neoprene oil seal rings. Remove the five trans- inch. Use either a feeler gauge or a dial indicator
fer plate to transmission case screws and lift off to measure the end clearance. See Figure 76. If
the valve body and transfer plate assembly. See clearance exceeds .052 inches install a thicker di-
Figure 75. Place the valve body assembly in rect clutch piston retainer thrust washer. If clear-
stand C-3294. ance is less than .026 inches install a thinner wash-
Before further disassembling the transmission, er. The thrust washer is selectively fit and is avail-
check the end clearance in the following manner. able in three sizes.
Insert a screwdriver between the planet pinion
carrier housing and direct clutch assembly and REAR EXTENSION HOUSING—REMOVAL
move the clutch assembly to its forward position. Remove the hand brake assembly from the rear
Measure the distance between the planet pinion extension housing. Remove the speedometer drive
carrier housing and clutch assembly. Then insert pinion and inspect nylon gear. Remove rear bear-
screwdriver between transmission case and direct ing oil seal using puller C-748. Remove any burrs
clutch assembly and move direct clutch assembly
or nicks from the counterbore with crocus cloth.
Remove the seven extension housing to transmis-
sion housing screws and lockwashers. Install
guide studs C-3283 and remove extension housing
with puller C-3282 as shown in Figure 77. Use care
when removing housing to prevent damage to the
OUTPUT^
SHAFT
55P1247
SUPPORT 45x2098
C-3283 GUIDE STUDS
Figure 75 — Removal or Installation of Figure 77 — Removing Transmission Extension

Valve Body and Transfer Plate Housing
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 323
GOVERNOR BODY
GOVERNOR
LOCATING
SCREW
REAR EXTENSION
HOUSING
45x2099
GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT
GOVERNOR VALVE
Figure 78 — Removing Output Shaft Rear Bearing Figure 80 — Removal or Installation of Governor
Valve and Shaft
governor. Inspect the housing for cracks and re-
move any burrs from the gasket surface. GOVERNOR BODY
Clean the output shaft rear bearing and dry with
compressed air. Do not spin bearing. Inspect bear-
ing for rough spots. To remove bearing, first re-
move rear bearing snap ring, using long nose
pliers. Note bevel edge of snap ring and inspect for
distortion. Use driver C-3275 and drive bearing
from housing as shown in Figure 78. Remove vent
in top of extension housing and make certain it is
open and free of dirt. GOVERNOR
WEIGHT
GOVERNOR REMOVAL, DISASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY
AND INSPECTION
Remove one of the snap rings from the governor
valve shaft as shown in Figure 79. 45x2103
Remove the valve shaft and valve as shown in Figure 81 —Removal or Installation of Governor
Figure 80. Weight Assembly
Use pliers C-760 and remove the large gover-
nor weight snap ring. Then remove the governor
weight from governor body as shown in Figure 81. Keep thumb pressure on the spring loaded sec-
ondary governor weight and remove the secon-
dary weight snap ring with pliers C-3229. Inspect
all parts for wear or burrs after cleaning and
drying.
Secondary weight should work freely in primary
weight when parts are clean and dry. Inspect
spring for distortion. Compare with a new one.
Remove the governor locating screw from the
governor body and output shaft. Slide the gover-
nor body and support from the output shaft as
shown in Figure 82. Remove the governor support
piston rings and inspect for wear. Inspect the oil
passages and make certain they are free of dirt
and foreign matter. The governor support has a
pressed in steel sleeve which routes oil through
55P¡248
the support. If sleeve is damaged replace complete
Figure 79 — Removal or Installation of Governor support. Inspect the valve and governor body for
Valve Shaft Snap Ring score marks.
MyMopar.com
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT

REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING REAR OIL
GOVERNOR BODY SUPPORT PUMP PINION
GOVERNOR BODY OUTPUT SHAFT
REAR OIL
PUMP HOUSING
GOVERNOR SUPPORT PISTON RINGS

45x2104
C-3283 GUIDE STUDS
Figure 82 — Removal or Installation of Governor Figure 83 — Removal or Installation of Rear
Body and Support Oil Pump Housing
`„, j>jREAR OIL PUMP PINION BALL

REAR OIL PUMP REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY REAR OIL PUMP PINION KEYWAY
Remove the five rear oil pump housing to out-

put shaft support screws and lockwashers. Remove
housing and oil pump gear. See Figure 83.
Use prussian blue to mark front side of gear
in surfaces for nicks and burrs, oil pump gears
housing. Do not use a scribe. Inspect machined
surfaces and housing for being scored or pitted,
and pump housing plug for leaks. Remove the rear
oil pump pinion from the output shaft and mark
the front side with prussian blue. See Figure 84.
The pinion is keyed to the shaft by a small ball.
Use care when removing. Inspect keyway in
pinion and ball pocket in shaft for wear. Check Figure 84 — Removal or Installation of Rear
clearance between pump housing face and face of Oil Pump Piston
gears with tool C-3335 and feeler gauge. Clear-
ance limits are .0012 to .0022 inches. See Figure 85.
TOOL
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT, PLANET PINION

CARRIERS, AND DIRECT CLUTCH
ASSEMBLIES—REMOVAL
Remove the output shaft support to transmission

case screw and lockwasher. Work output shaft
up and down and at the same time apply pressure
to the input shaft. See Figure 86. Slide the complete
assembly from the housing. If rear support cannot
be freed, install oil pan screw in transmission and
carefully pry support free as shown in Figure 87.
Remove the direct clutch assembly from the reac-
tion shaft. Remove the thrust washer from reac-
tion shaft. This washer is selectively fit and con- 45x2107
trols end play between the clutch assembly and
carrier housing. Inspect washer for nicks, burrs, Figure 85 — Checking Clearance Between
and wear. Pump Body and Gears
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 325
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSY K¡CKDOWN

PLANET PINION CARRIER HOUSING ASSY PLANET INPUT SHAFT
PINION
CARRIER ASSY
REVERSE PLANET
OUTPUT SHAFT PINION CARRIER
THRUST WASHER
í
KICKDOWN
ANNULUS
GEAR
OUTPUT
SHAFT
SUPPORT PLANET
PINION
G U I D E STUDS CARRIER
FRONT OIL PUMP H O U S I N G HOUSING
T O R Q U E CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT
55P1251 55P1253
INPUT SHAFT
Figure 86 — Removing Output Shaft, Carrier Figure 89—Removal or Installation of Input

Housing and Input Shaft Assemblies Shaft and Carrier Assembly
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT

DISASSEMBLY OF PLANET PINION
CARRIER HOUSING
Place assembly in support fixture C-3285 in up-

right position. Using a feeler gauge check clear-
ance between kickdown planet pinion carrier
housing snap ring and kickdown planet pinion
carrier assembly. This clearance should be from
.012 to .038 inches. If within limits identify each
thrust washer as it is removed during disassembly.
Remove snap ring with screwdriver and identify
it to aid during assembly. See Figure 88.
Remove the input shaft, kickdown planet pinion
carrier assembly and kickdown annulus gear from
2109
carrier housing. See Figure 89. Remove the reverse
planet pinion carrier thrust washer and inspect for
Figure 87 — Separating Rear Support From cracks, burrs, or wear. Remove the snap ring from
Transmission Case input shaft. See Figure 90. Remove annulus gear
and inspect for wear, cracked or broken teeth. Re-
move pinion carrier assembly from input shaft.
See Figure 91. Inspect stop ring on shaft which con-
trols position of annulus gear. Check oil passages
in gear and shaft for obstructions. Inspect splines
^ INPUT SHAFT
and bearing surfaces for burrs or wear. Inspect the
K!CKDOWN pinion carrier for scoring on thrust surfaces and
PLANET PINION KICKDOWN PLANET
CARRIER PINION CARRIER ASSY broken or worn teeth. Check end clearance of
HOUSING pinions. Limits are from .006 to .017 inches. Inspect
PLANET PINION
SNAP RING
/ CARRIER HOUSING
pinion shafts for tightness and make sure pinion
rotate freely. Check oil holes in gears and shafts
for obstructions. The planet pinion carrier is serv-
iced as an assembly. Inspect oil holes in the thrust
washer of kickdown carrier.
Remove the reverse planet pinion carrier assem-
bly from the carrier housing. See Figure 92. Make
the same inspections for the reverse planet pinion
carrier assembly as were made for the kickdown
Figure 88 — Removal or Installation of Snap Ring planet pinion carrier assembly. Remove the output
MyMopar.com
shaft and reverse annulus gear from the carrier

housing and output shaft support. See Figure 93.
TOOL Using pliers C-3301 remove the annulus gear snap
ring and separate the output shaft and annulus
KICKDOWN ANNULUS gear. Inspect shaft for scores and the annulus for
GEAR SNAP RING damaged teeth. Inspect splines, ring grooves and
worn gear on shaft. Remove the thrust washer and
inspect for wear. Remove the carrier housing from
the output shaft support and inspect driving lug
slots, thrust surfaces, and band contact surface.
See Figure 94. Inspect the output shaft support oil
passages, rear oil pump surface, and bearing sur-
faces. Remove burrs or score marks with crocus
cloth.
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER —

Figure 90 — Removal or Installation of Kickdown DISASSEMBLY
Annulus Gear Snap Ring
Remove the kickdown sun gear snap ring (selec-
tive fit) as shown in Figure 95. Lift out sun gear as-
sembly. See Figure 96. Inspect sun gear for worn
or broken teeth. Lift direct clutch hub from retainer.
KiCKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR STOP RING See Figure 97. Inspect hub driving lugs and spline.
Invert the piston retainer and remove the five steel
clutch plates and the five clutch discs. See Figure
98. Discs are constructed of cork and krafelt. In-
spect for evidence of burning, glazing or flaking of
the facing material. Replace if necessary. Inspect
the steel clutch plates for evidence of burning,
scoring or damaged splines.
INPUT SHAFT
KiCKDOWN PLANET. CAUTION

PINION CARRIER ASSY
KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR Use care when releasing the tool. The piston
spring may require guiding past the snap ring
Figure 91 —Input Shaft and Kickdown Planetary grooves in the clutch retainer.
Gearshift — Disassembled
REVERSE PLANET
PINION REVERSE
CARRIER ASSY ANNULUS GEAR
PLANET PINION
CARRIER HOUSING OUTPUT SHAFT
PLANET PINION
CARRIER HOUSING
45x2114 OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT
Figure 92 — Removal or Installation of Reverse Figure 93 — Removal or Installation of Reverse

Planet Pinion Carrier Annulus Gear
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 327
PLANET PINION DIRECT CLUTCH HUB

CARRIER
HOUSING
DRIVING DISC & CLUTCH
PLATE ASSEMBLIES
DIRECT CLUTCH
PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLY
Figure 94 — Removal or Installation of Carrier Figure 97 — Removal of Direct Clutch Hub

Housing from Piston Retainer
4S>2Ì2C
Figure 95 — Removal or Installation of Kickdown Figure 98 — Removal of Clutch Discs and Clutch
Sun Gear Snap Ring Plates
DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING

DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING
RETAINER SNAP R!NG
/TOOL C-3302
DIRECT CLUTCH HUB
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON
''RETAINER ASSY
KICKDOWN DIRECT CLUTCH

SUN GEAR SPRING RETAINER
ASSY
TOOL C-33OÌ
45x2121
Figure 96 — Removal or Installation of Figure 99 — Removal or Installation of Spring

Kickdown Sun Gear Retainer Snap Ring
MyMopar.com
Back-Up Light Switch 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
Companion Flange Nut 140 to 160 ft. lbs.
Extension Breather 10 to 12 ft. lbs.
Governor Locating Screw 3¼ to 4 ft. lbs.
Governor Oil Pressure Take¯Off Plug 10 to 12 ft. lbs.
Kickdown Band Adjusting Screw Nut 35 to 40 ft. lbs.
Kickdown Band Lever Shaft Plug 30 to 35 ft. lbs.
Neutral Starter Switch 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Filler Tube Nut 35 to 40 ft. lbs.
Oil Pressure line Take-Of£ Plug 10 to 12 ft. lbs.
Regulator Valve Spring Retainer 45 to 50 ft. lbs.
Reverse Band Lever Adjusting Screw Nut 30 to 35 ft. lbs.
Speedometer Pinion Sleeve Assembly 40 to 45 ft. lbs.
Throttle Oil Pressure Take-Off Plug 10 to 12 ft. lbs.
Throttle Valve Adjusting Screw Plug 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
Torque Converter Drain Plug 23 to 25 ft. lbs.
Case to Reaction Shaft Screw 10 to 15 ft. lbs.
Torque Converter Control Valve Spring Retainer 35 to 40 ft. lbs.
Torque Converter to Crankshaft Nuts 55 to 60 ft. lbs.
7/16x14 45 to 50 ft. lbs.
Adapter Plate to Engine Block Screws
3/8x16 25 to 30 ft. lbs.
Torque Converter Housing to Adapter Plate Screws 25 to 30 ft. lbs.
Output Shaft Support to Case Screw 25 to 30 ft. lbs.
Governor Body Screws 87 to 90 in. lbs.
Oil Strainer Support Screws 12 to 17 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Screws 12 to 17 ft. lbs.
Front Oil Pump Housing Screws 12 to 17 ft. lbs.
Rear Oil Pump Housing Screws 15 to 20 ft. lbs.
Transmission Extension Housing Screws 25 to 30 ft. lbs.
Transfer Plate Cover Screws 40 to 45 in. lbs.
Transfer Plate to Case Screws 14 to 16 ft. lbs.
Shift Valve Plug Screw 25 to 30 in. lbs.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 329
Using tool C-3302, compress the direct clutch DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING
RETAINER SNAP RING
spring sufficiently to unseat the direct clutch spring
retainer snap ring. See Figure 99. Release the tool, DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING
RETAINER
and remove the snap ring, spring retainer and
spring. See Figure 100. DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING
Using a twisting motion, remove the direct clutch

piston from the clutch retainer. See Figure 101. Ob- DIRECT CLUTCH
serve the ball check in the clutch retainer. Make PISTON
sure ball operates freely. The bearing in the clutch
retainer is steel backed bronze and is not replace- DIRECT CLUTCH
able. If the torque converter reaction shaft seal PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLY
rings have grooved the bearing through the
bronze, replace the direct clutch retainer assembly.
Inspect the band contacting surface for score
marks or burning. Light score marks can be re- Figure 100 — Removal or Installation of Direct
moved with crocus cloth. Remove the neoprene Clutch Piston Spring
seal ring from the piston and replace it, if there is
evidence of deterioration, wear or hardness. See DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON
Figure 102.
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON SEAL RING
DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER —ASSEMBLY DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON

RETAINER ASSEMBLY
Coat the neoprene piston seal ring with lubri-
plate and install on piston, with lip facing away
from flange. Coat the piston retainer ring with
lubriplate and install on retainer hub.
Make sure ring rotates freely in groove. Place
piston in retainer and with a twisting motion, seat
piston in bottom of retainer. Exercise care to pre-
vent damage to the neoprene seal. Install the di-
rect clutch spring in the retainer and position the 45x2123
BALL CHECK
spring retainer and snap ring on spring. Using tool
C-3302 and compress the direct clutch spring suf- Figure 101—Removal or Installation of Direct
ficiently to seat the snap ring. See Figure 99. Use Clutch Piston
care when compressing the spring, since the re-
tainer may require guiding past the snap ring
grooves. Make certain that ring is securely seated
in groove before removing tool. Install the direct
clutch hub in retainer. Lubricate all clutch plates
and driving discs with automatic transmission
fluid type A and assemble by placing a clutch
plate in the clutch piston retainer followed by a
clutch disc.
CAUTION
DIRECT CLUTCH `
If the first disc was installed with cork por- PISTON RETAINER
SEAL RING
tion at outer edge, then all succeeding e/iscs
must be installed in this manner. If first disc DIRECT CLUTCH
was krafelt at outer edge succeeding discs PISTON RETAINER
ASSY 55P1256
must also be installed. See Figure 103 for
proper sequence. Figure 102 — Removal or Installation of
Piston Retainer Seal Ring
MyMopar.com
Place the kickdown sun gear assembly in re-

tainer and install snap ring. Check distance be-
tween snap ring and sun gear assembly. Clear-
ance limit is as close to zero as possible. Snap
ring is available in the following sizes: .059 to .061
inches (thin), .062 to .064 (medium), and .065 to
.067 (thick).
REVERSE AND KICKDOWN BAND —

DIRECT DIRECT
CLUTCH
CLUTCH
PLATE
HUB Mark the reverse band for installation purposes.
DIRECT CLUTCH Compress band ends sufficiently to remove the re-
DRIVING DISC verse band strut. Unhook the band from the link
DIRECT CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY
PiSTON assembly and remove band by rotating it out of
RETAINER ASSY 45x2126 transmission as shown in Figure 104.
Figure 103 — Installation of Clutch Plates and To remove the kickdown band, compress the
Clutch Driving Discs ends and remove the strut. Note notch in strut
which acts as a guide to the pin in the band end.
Remove band as shown in Figure 104. Both the
kickdown band and reverse band have bonded
lining and no attempt should be made to reline
them. If grooves in lining are no longer visible,
replace the band. Inspect bands for distortion or
cracked ends.
Inspect the reverse band link and lever assem-
blies. Levers should be free to rotate and have
sufficient end play. Do not remove these assem-
blies unless necessary. To remove the reverse
band lever; push the shaft out of rear opening in
case. To remove the kickdown band lever, first re-
move the shaft plug at front of transmission. Shaft
can then be pushed out.
FRONT OIL PUMP —REMOVAL

Figure 104 — Removal or Installation of Reverse
or Kickdown Band Remove the transmission regulator valve re-
tainer spring, gasket and valve. See Figure 105. Re-
move the torque converter control valve retainer,
spring, gasket and valve. See Figure 106. Remove
the seven front oil pump housing to transmission
case screws and washers. Discard the aluminum
or copper sealing washers under bolts and use
new ones during assembly. Tap pump housing
lightly with a soft hammer to loosen, then pull the
oil pump housing assembly from the transmission
case. See Figure 107.
TRANSMISSION IMPORTANT
REGULATOR
VALVE SPRING Use pruss¡an blue to mark the front face of
TRANSMISSION ' & RETAINER
the pump gears to aid during assembly. Do not
FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING
use a scribe to mark gears.
DUST SEAL
TORQUE CONVERTER
45x2128 CONTROL VALVE SPRING & RETAINER
Remove the oil pump gear from the front pump
Figure 105 — Transmission Regulator and Torque housing. Remove the large neoprene oil pump
Converter Control Valves housing seal from the housing and inspect for
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 331
GUIDE STUDS
TORQUE
CONVERTER
REACTION SHAFT
TRANSMISSION REGULATOR
VALVE
PIECE OF WELDING ROD `*,;»-`
FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING | [ ` ^56P2Ì4.
Figure 106 — Removing Transmission Regulator Figure 107 — Front Oil Pump Housing Assembly
Valve
GUIDE STUDS
deterioration, cracking, or hardness. Use a brass REGULATOR VALVE BODY
drift and drive the dust seal from the housing. In-
spect bushing in housing for excessive wear or
score marks. If damaged, replace complete hous-
ing since bushing is not replaceable. Small scores
can be removed with crocus cloth. Inspect the
gears for worn or chipped gear teeth.
Use tool C-3335 and feeler gauge and check
clearance between pump housing face and face
of gears. Clearance limits are .001 to .003 inches.
Clear out all oil passages with compressed air.
REGULATOR VALVE BODY —REMOVAL

TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT
Using the two threaded holes provided in the
regulator valve body, attach puller C-3287, and Figure 108 — Removing Transmission Regulator
install guide studs C-3288. Pull regulator valve Valve Body
body off of torque converter reaction shaft. See
Figure 108.
Regulator valve body is made of aluminum and
requires care in handling to avoid damage. Place Check regulator valve spring seat (snap ring).
body and both valves in pan containing a clean After both valves and regulator valve body have
solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with com- been thoroughly cleaned and inspected, they
pressed air. Inspect both valves for free move- should be placed on and covered with clean shop
ment in valve body, they should fall in and out towels until ready for installation. Leave valves
of bores when both the valves and body are dry. in regulator body bores until ready for reassem-
Crocus cloth may be used to polish valves pro- bly. This will help to prevent them from being
viding care is exercised not to round the sharp damaged. See Figure 109.
edge portion of the valves. The sharp edge portion
is vitally important to this type of valve, it helps REVERSE SERVO PISTON — REMOVAL
to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting
between the valve and body, thus reducing the Lift out the reverse servo piston sleeve. Inspect
possibilities of sticking. Check all fluid passages the inside bore, lever and contacting surface on
for obstructions and inspect all mating surfaces the piston sleeve for scores and wear. Make sure
for burrs and distortion. If regulator valve body the two bleeder holes are open. Install tool C-3289
should have a slight nick or raised portion on on transmission case and compress the reverse
mating surfaces, it may be removed by using a piston spring retainer. Use a screwdriver to remove
surface plate and crocus cloth. the snap ring as shown in Figure 110. Loosen the
MyMopar.com
TORQUE CONVERTER compressing tool and remove the spring retainer,

(n¡\ CONTROL VALVE spring, servo piston and valve assembly. See
(P-26, P-27)
Figure 111. Use care when loosening tool since the
spring retainer may require guiding out of trans-
mission bore.
Remove the lip type neoprene piston ring from
piston and inspect for deterioration and hardness.
Use pliers C-3229 to remove the servo valve spring
j REGULATOR
VALVE BODY
snap ring. Remove the spring and valve from
piston. Inspect servo bore for score marks. Light
scores can be removed with crocus cloth.
TRANSMISSION
J REGULATOR VALVE
KICKDOWN PISTON —REMOVAL
56P2O3 Using tool C-3289, apply sufficient pressure on
Figure 109 — Torque Converter and Transmission
the kickdown piston rod guide and remove the snap
ring. Loosen compressing portion of tool and re-
Regulator Valves
move tool from transmission case. Remove piston
rod guide, piston spring, kickdown piston rod
assembly, and kickdown piston cushion spring.
TOOL
Inspect riveting of the kickdown piston rod to kick-
down piston spring retainer. Remove seal ring
from guide. Inspect for light scores and wear on
piston rod and guide. Using C-484 pliers, remove
the transmission kickdown piston from the
transmission case. See Figure 112. Remove the
three seal rings (two locking and one open type)
from the kickdown piston. Inspect piston for light
scores and wear. Inspect rings for broken ends.
REVERSE SERVO
TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT —
ASSY RETAINER INSPECTION
¾SNAP RING
Inspect torque converter reaction shaft seal rings
45x2133
(interlocking type) for broken ends and make sure
they are free to rotate in the lands. Inspect inside
Figure 110 — Removal or Installation of Reverse of torque converter reaction shaft for burrs, inspect
Servo Snap Ring splines on shaft for burrs and wear. Remove the
neoprene reaction shaft seal and check for deteri-
C-484 PLIERS
TOOL
REVERSE SERVO
PISTON & VALVE
ASSY
KICKDOWN
PISTON ASSY
55PÌ258
55P1259
Figure 111—Removal or Installation of Reverse Figure 112 — Removal of Kickdown

Servo Piston Piston Assembly
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 333
oration and hardness. Inspect thrust surface for MANUAL CONTROL

VALVE LEVER SHAFT TRANSMISSION
wear and slight scores. Do not remove the torque OIL SEAL CASE
converter reaction shaft unless inspection reveals
it is necessary to do so.
TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT —

REMOVAL
Remove torque converter reaction shaft neo-
prene seal. Using a suitable brass drift, remove the
reaction shaft dowel pin from reaction shaft flange
and transmission case. Remove the three transmis-
sion case to reaction shaft screws and washers.
Using tool C-3297, press reaction shaft out of trans-
mission case. See Figure 113. Remove the two
interlocking type torque converter reaction shaft
seal rings.
Figure 114 — Installing Manual Control
Lever Oil Seal
MANUAL CONTROL VALVE LEVER SHAFT OIL
SEAL —REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Screw adjusting screw, with locking nut at-
Using a suitable drift, drive seal out of transmis- tached into transmission case until there is approx-
sion case. Using tool C-3277, start seal squarely imately one inch of screw left on outside of case.
and tighten until the seal is flush with case. Seal Do not lock screw into position at this time.
will then be correctly positioned. See Figure 114.
TRANSMISSION CASE —INSPECTION
KICKDOWN BAND ADJUSTING SCREW —
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Inspect transmission case for cracks, and holes,
Loosen locking nut and remove kickdown band and stripped threads. Check for burrs on mating
adjusting screw and locknut. surfaces. Blow compressed air through all pas-
sages to make sure they are open. Check oil hole
plugs for tightness.
IMPORTANT
When lock nut is loosened, the adjusting TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION

screw must be finger free. If not, inspect screw SHAFT— INSTALLATION
and nut for pulled threads or foreign material
Using sun lamps, heat front of transmission case
in threads. This is very important to adjust-
to approximately 170 to 190 degrees F. Coat with
ment.
Lubriplate and install the two torque converter
reaction shaft seal rings on shaft and lock in place.
Make sure they are free to rotate in lands. Coat
portion of reaction shaft that presses into case
with Lubriplate. Position torque converter reaction
shaft into front of transmission case so that holes
in shaft align with screw holes in case.
Place a 5/16 inch (.308 to .311 inch outside diam-
eter in unthreaded section) 2½ inch bolt through
dowel guide pin holes in case and reaction shaft
to act as guides. Install nut. Using tool C-3297 press
reaction shaft into place. See Figure 115. Do not
remove 5/16 inch bolt from dowel pin holes at this
point. Start the three transmission case to reaction
shaft screws and washers and tighten slightly,
TORQUE CONVERTER but do not torque. Remove 5/16 inch bolt from
REACTION SHAFT A5×2m
dowel pin hole and install the reaction shaft dowel
Figure 113 — Removal of Torque Converter from inside of transmission case. Torque transmis-
Reaction Shaft sion to reaction shaft screws from 10 to 15 ft. lbs.
MyMopar.com
DOWEL HOLE
GUIDE BOLT
compressing spring until seal ring enters case and
5/16 INCH snap ring can be installed. Install the kickdown
DIAMETER piston rod guide snap ring. Make sure snap ring is
X 2-1/2
· · INCH properly seated.
LONG
\
REVERSE SERVO PISTON — REASSEMBLY
AND INSTALLATION
Place the reverse servo piston valve and spring

in reverse servo piston. Shaft on valve protrudes
through hole in bottom of piston. Using C-3229
pliers, install the reverse servo piston valve spring
snap ring. Make sure snap ring is properly seated.
TORQUE CONVERTER
Coat the reverse servo piston ring (neoprene) with
REACTION SHAFT Lubriplate and install on piston. Insert reverse
servo piston and valve assembly into transmis-
Figure 115 — Installing Torque Converter
sion case in a cocked position, then by rotating
Reaction Shaft
piston, the piston will enter case without being
damaged. See Figure 111. Place reverse servo
piston spring over piston and position spring re-
Coat torque converter reaction shaft seal (neo-
tainer over spring. Compress spring with tool
prene) with Lubriplate and install on shaft.
C-3289 sufficiently to install snap ring. See Figure
KICKDOWN PISTON-—REASSEMBLY 110. Spring retainer may require guiding into case.
AND INSTALLATION Make sure snap ring seats properly.
Coat the three kickdown piston rings with Inspect interior of reverse servo piston sleeve
Lubriplate (two locking and one open type) and for burrs, then place sleeve over the piston. Make
install on piston. Lock into position and make sure sure sleeve slides freely on piston by working it
they are free to rotate in lands. Place kickdown up and down. Remove installing tool from trans-
piston assembly into transmission case, compress mission case.
bottom ring with a piece of brass rod, with end
flattened, and push piston into case. See Figure
116. REGULATOR VALVE BODY — INSTALLATION
Inspect regulator valve body and valves to

make sure that no damage has occurred since first
CAUTION inspection and cleaning. Blow out passages with
After bottom ring has entered, piston will compressed air. See Figure 117. Make sure torque
seem to hang at two different locations while converter reaction shaft neoprene seal is coated
being pushed into case. This is due to rings with Lubriplate. Place the transmission regulator
entering cylinder. If any of the rings should
be broken when piston assembly is being in-
stalled, transmission will not operate properly.
Place kickdown piston cushion spring in piston.

Install tool C-3289 on transmission case. Place
kickdown piston rod assembly in piston and slide
piston spring over kickdown piston rod assembly.
Coat the kickdown piston rod guide seal ring with
Lubriplate and install on kickdown piston rod
guide. Make sure ring rotates freely in lands.
Place the kickdown piston rod guide assembly on
kickdown piston rod assembly. Using extreme
care, compress the kickdown piston spring to the
point that piston guide seal ring slightly binds on 45x2139
case. Then using a piece of brass rod flattened on
one end, work seal ring into position, gradually Figure 116 — Installing Kickdown Piston Assembly
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 335
valve and torque converter control valve in the FRONT OIL PUMP — REASSEMBLY
regulator valve body. Install guide studs C-3288 AND INSTALLATION
in front of transmission case.
Position front oil pump housing dust seal in front
of oil pump housing (metal portion of seal down).
Using driver C-3278 bottom seal into housing. See
CAUTION
Figure 118. Coat transmission oil pump housing
Use extreme care, when reaction shaft seal seal with Lubriplate and install on housing. Place
enters regulator body to prevent reaction shaft transmission front oil pump gear and pinion (driv-
screws from damaging passages on regulator ing lugs of pinion facing up) in oil pump housing.
body. See Figure 119.
Place transmission regulator valve body assem- CAUTION

bly, with oil passages to rear, over torque con-
verter reaction shaft and on to guide studs, seat Unless oil pump pinion is installed correctly,
firmly to front of transmission case. See Figure 117. considerable damage will result when trans-
mission is installed in vehicle. Lubricate oil
GASKET pump gears with automatic transmission fluid
TORQUE CONVERTER (type A).
REACTION SHAFT SEAL
TORQUE CONVERTER
REACTION SHAFT Place front oil pump housing assembly over
torque converter reaction shaft and slide into posi-
tion over guide studs until oil pump housing seal
is flush with transmission case. Using new alumi-
num or copper washers on screws, start five of the
screws and draw housing down evenly until it is
seated into transmission case. Remove guide studs
and install the two remaining screws and washers
then torque to 17 foot pounds.
REGULATOR VALVE BODY
55P!334
Using a new gasket, reinstall the torque con-
Figure 117 — Installation of Valve Body Assembly
verter control valve spring and retainer. Torque
from 35 to 40 foot pounds. Using a new gasket, re-
install the transmission regulator valve spring and
retainer. Torque from 45 to 50 foot pounds. See
Figure 105.
GUIDE STUDS THROTTLE OIL PRESSURE

REGULATOR TAKE -OFF PLUG
VALVE B O D Y \ x
TORQUE
CONVERTER
REACTION SHAFT
FRONT OîL
PUMP HOUSING
\ FRONT OIL PUMP PINION

FRONT OIL PUMP ^
FRONT OIL PUMP MARKS
45x2141
HOUSING SEAL
Figure 118 — Installing Front Oil Pump Housing Figure 119—Installation of Front Oil Pump
Dust Seal Assembly
MyMopar.com
PLANET PINION CARRIERS IN HOUSING —

IMPORTANT INSTALLATION
Place output shaft support in tool C-3285 with
After all screws have been installed and
bearing surface up. Lubricate bearing surface of
properly torqued, engage the driving lugs of
planet pinion housing, then place bearing surface
the oil pump pinion to determine if oil pump
of housing over output shaft support bearing sur-
pinion turns freely. Use the oil pump drive
face. See Figure 94. Place the reverse annulus gear
sleeve for this check. If not tree, remove pump
on the output shaft and install the reverse annulus
and check for foreign matter between pump
gear snap ring. Selectively fit the snap ring with
gears and housing.
one of the following three sizes: .078 to .080 inches
(thin), .082 to .084 inches (medium), and .086 to .088
inches (thick).
REVERSE BAND, KICKDOWN BAND —
INSTALLATION
CAUTION
Place kickdown band assembly into transmis-
Reverse annulus gear must fit tightly on
sion case by rotating ends of band through rear
output shaft. End clearance is controlled by
opening in case. See Figure 104. Fit the proper end
various snap rings which are available in the
of the kickdown band over adjusting screw and
three thicknesses.
compress the band sufficiently to install the kick-
down band strut between other end and kickdown
band lever. See Figure 120. Make sure snap ring seats properly. The output
shaft may be placed in a vise, providing it is clean
and equipped with brass jaws.
CAUTION
Coat transmission output shaft seal ring with
Make sure kickdown band strut slot engages Lubriplate and install on shaft. Lock into position
with kickdown band strut pin in the band end. and make sure ring rotates freely in lands. Coat
the planet pinion carrier housing thrust washer
with Lubriplate, slide over output shaft and into
position on reverse annulus gear. Place output
Place reverse band assembly into transmission shaft and reverse annulus gear into position in the
case by rotating ends of band through rear open- planet pinion carrier housing thrust washer with
ing in case. See Figure 104. Hook the proper end of Lubriplate, slide over output shaft and into posi-
the reverse band (previously identified when band tion on reverse annulus gear. Place output shaft
was removed) in link assembly. Compress the and reverse annulus gear into position in the
band sufficiently to install the reverse band strut planet pinion carrier housing and through the out-
in the slots of reverse band and reverse band lever put shaft support, being careful not to damage the
assembly. output shaft seal rings as it enters the output shaft
support. See Figure 93.
KICKDOWN BAND STRUT PIN
CAUTION
Make sure the planet pinion carrier thrust
washer seats properly between the reverse an-
nulus gear and the planet pinion carrier hous-
ing. Coat output shaft splines with Lubriplate.
The driving lugs on carrier assembly must

KICKDOWN BAND STRUT engage the slots in the planet pinion carrier
housing. See Figure 92.
Lubricate thrust surfaces and gear teeth of the

KICKDOWN BAND LEVER
reverse planet pinion gear and carrier assembly.
Place carrier assembly in the reverse annulus
Figure 120 — Installation of Kickdown Band Strut gear.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 337
NOTE
Input shaft seal rings (three) are used on

early Ï955 transmissions only, which requires
DIRECT CLUTCH
a mating reaction shaft. If a new type input
PISTON RETAINER
shaft (without the three seal rings) is to be ASSY
replaced a new type reaction shaft must also
PLANET PINION
be used. CARRIER HOUSING
OUTPUT
SHAFT SUPPORT
Inspect stop ring for proper position in input shaft
groove. Lubricate thrust surfaces and gear teeth on
the kickdown planet pinion gear and carrier as- TOOL 55P1261
sembly. Slide assembly (oil collector ring up) care-
fully down on rear end of input shaft and over stop Figure 121—Installation of Direct Clutch Piston
ring. Lubricate teeth and thrust surfaces of the kick- Retainer Assembly
down annulus gear. Slide on to input shaft down to
stop ring. See Figure 91. Install kickdown annulus
gear snap ring. Make sure it is seated properly. See
Figure 90. Input shaft may be placed in a vise,
providing it is clean and equipped with brass jaws.
Engage the gear teeth of the kickdown planet TOOL C-3306
pinion gears with teeth on the kickdown annulus TOOL C-3283
gear. Slide the pinion gear and carrier assembly
into position in the kickdown annulus gear. Slide
the pinion gear and carrier assembly into position
in the kickdown annulus gear. Coat the reverse
planet pinion carrier thrust washer with Lubriplate
and install on kickdown annulus.
Place the kickdown planet pinion carrier as- INPUT SHAFT
sembly, annulus gear and input shaft into position
55P1262
in planet pinion carrier housing. See Figure 89.
Make sure planet pinion carrier thrust washer re-
Figure 122 — Preparing to Install Power
mains on annulus, and driving lugs on carrier as-
Train Assembly
sembly properly engage the slots in the planet
pinion housing. Install planet pinion carrier hous-
ing snap ring (not a selective fit). Make sure it is
positioned and seated properly. See Figure 88. sun gear with the kickdown planet pinion gears
Lubricate gear and splines. Using a feeler gauge, and engaging splines of the input shaft with the
check the clearance between the kickdown planet direct clutch hub. See Figure 121.
pinion carrier housing snap ring and the kickdown
planet pinion carrier assembly. Limits are .012 to Make sure kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust
.038 inches. If not within these limits, disassemble washer remained in position. Coat the direct clutch
and recheck the reverse planet pinion carrier and piston retainer thrust washer (select fit) with Lubri-
the planet pinion carrier housing thrust washers. plate and install on torque converter reaction shaft
inside of transmission case. Use care when sliding
washer over rings to prevent damage.
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT, PLANET PINION
CARRIER AND DIRECT CLUTCH Install guide studs C-3283 in rear of transmission
ASSEMBLIES — INSTALLATION case, position new output shaft support gasket
over guide studs and on to case. Place tool C-3306
Coat the kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust over the splines on the front of input shaft. See
washer with Lubriplate, place over kickdown sun Figure 122.
gear and on to thrust surface of direct clutch piston
retainer assembly. Place the direct clutch piston Insert input shaft, with direct clutch assembly,
retainer assembly over the input shaft, engaging planet pinion carrier housing, output shaft support
MyMopar.com
KICKDOWN BAND ASSY REVERSE 8AND ASSY Install the five rear oil pump housing to output
OUTPUT SHAFT
shaft support screws and lockwashers. Draw down
SUPPORT evenly, then torque from 15 to 20 ft. lbs. After
screws have been properly tightened turn output
shaft to make sure pump gears are free to rotate.
If not, disassemble pump to determine cause.
REASSEMBLY OF GOVERNOR ON OUTPUT SHAFT

Coat the two governor support piston rings with
lubriplate and install on the governor support.
TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT Stagger rings and make sure they are free to
Figure 123 — Installation of Power Train
rotate in lands. Position governor body on sup-
in Transmission
port and install the four screws and lockwashers.
Do not tighten screws at this point. Slide governor
support and body assembly over output shaft and
into position in rear oil pump housing. See Figure
and output shaft attached, through the rear of 82. Compress governor support piston rings with
transmission case and through torque converter fingers as support enters oil pump housing. Align
reaction shaft. Then guide assembly through locating hole in output shaft to locating screw hole
bands and over guide studs and into position in in governor body and install governor locating
transmission case. See Figure 123. Remove tool screw, torque from 3½ to 4 ft. lbs.
C-3306 from the front of the input shaft.
Install the one output shaft support to transmis-
sion case screw and lockwasher finger tight. NOTE
Holes can be easily aligned by turning out-

REAR OIL PUMP —REASSEMBLY put shaft and holding governor body. Make
AND INSTALLATION sure screwdriver attachment fits the screw slot
when tightening locating screw.
Coat transmission rear oil pump pinion ball
with Lubriplate and insert in ball pocket in output
shaft. See Figure 84. Torque the four governor body screws from 5 to
Coat rear oil pump drive pinion with lubriplate, 10 ft. lbs. Dry governor parts with compressed air
place over output shaft and slide into position, but do not lubricate when assembling. Place
aligning key way in pinion with ball in shaft. Pinion governor weight spring over secondary weight
was marked when removed in disassembly, make and position both in primary weight. Make sure
sure it is installed correctly. Lubricate real oil pump governor weight spring seats properly. Guide
gear and position into rear oil pump housing. secondary weight, and compress governor weight
spring sufficiently to install snap ring. Make sure
snap ring is seated properly. Place governor
CAUTION weight assembly (secondary weight snap ring up)
into governor body and install snap ring. See
Make sure gear is installed correctly, check Figure 81. Make sure snap ring seats properly.
markings.
Slide the governor valve (small end up) over
governor valve shaft. Slide the governor shaft into
Slide rear oil pump housing assembly over out- governor body through the output shaft and
put shaft and into position against output shaft governor weight assembly, at same time position
support. See Figure 83. valve into body. See Figure 80. Install the governor
valve shaft snap ring. Make sure it is properly
locked to shaft. See Figure 79. Check operation of
CAUTION governor weight assembly and valve by turning
output shaft. Both should fall freely in body.
There are two extra holes in housing which
are used for vents. Make definitely sure you do
CHECKING TRANSMISSION END PLAY
not attempt to install screws in these holes.
Check each screw hole before installing screws. Using dial indicator C-430 or feeler gauge,
measure the distance between the direct clutch
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 339
assembly and carrier housing when clutch is in Place both brake anchor washers on brake shoe
rearward position. Then using a screwdriver in- anchor and install locking anchor washer. Place
serted between the direct clutch assembly and both shoe assemblies with adjusting sleeve nut
carrier housing, carefully pry the direct clutch for- and screw into position on anchor. Make sure
ward. Remove screwdriver and measure again. brake shoes are between the anchor washers. Use
The difference in the measurements is the end rubber band around shoes to help hold them into
clearance and must be .043 to .069 inches on early position. Install operating link. Note link marked
1955 transmission. On later built transmissions for correct installation. Install the brake support
without the three seal rings on the input shaft and grease shield spring (opening in spring toward
later type reaction shaft, the end clearance must adjusting sleeve). Make sure spring is properly
be .026 to .052 inches. See Figure 76. seated in groove. Slide the brake shoe return
spring behind the grease shield spring and hook
If it does not fall within this specification, then into position. Make sure brake adjustment is loose
transmission will have to be partially disas- enough, then install brake drum assembly.
sembled in the following manner to allow a direct
clutch piston retainer thrust washer of proper
thickness to be installed. Remove the seven screws NOTE
and lockwashers from the transmission extension ƒn some instances it may be necessary to use
and install guide studs C-3283. Then remove the tool C-496 to press brake drum on to output
one output shaft support to case screw and washer, shaft.
and remove the extension housing, output shaft,
support and planet pinion carrier housing assemb-
ly as one assembly. Slide the direct clutch piston Install the transmission flange washer, shake-
retainer from torque converter reaction shaft and proof washer and nut. Using C-3281, tighten from
remove the direct clutch piston retainer thrust 140 to 160 ft. lbs.
washer. Using a micrometer, measure the thick-
ness of the washer then select washer to give TRANSMISSION EXTENSION, OIL SEAL AND
correct clearance. These washers are available in BEARING —REASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
three thicknesses. See Page 297. Reassemble as
Using driver C-3204, install the output shaft rear
previously instructed and recheck end play.
bearing in extension housing. See Figure 124.
Make sure bearing is properly seated then lubri-
KICKDOWN BAND AND REVERSE BAND cate with automatic transmission fluid type "A."
ADJUSTMENT Install output shaft rear bearing snap ring. Install
Adjustment of the kickdown and reverse bands bevel side up, and make sure snap ring seats
can be made at this time. Refer to page 315 for
correct procedure when performing this operation.
HAND BRAKE —REASSEMBLY AND

INSTALLATION
Make sure the brake support spacer (neoprene)

is in position on back of brake support and spacer
sleeve is in center of support. Slide brake support C~-3204 DRIVER
assembly over rear of extension housing and
anchor pin. Make sure spacer sleeve remained in
center of support. Install brake support grease OUTPUT
shield on extension housing. SHAFT REAR
BEARING
CAUTION
EXTENSION
Indent in shield for correct positioning on HOUSING
extension housing. Also shield must be located
45x215î
on housing far enough to permit installation of
spring later. Figure 124 — Installation of Output Shaft
Rear Bearing
MyMopar.com
properly. Install oil seal and lubricate contacting

lip to provide initial lubrication. See Figure 125.
Replace extension breather (vent) and torque from
10 to 12 it. lbs. Install new transmission extension
gasket over guide studs and into position against
output shaft support.
Do not use sealing material on gasket. Using
care to avoid damaging the governor housing,
place rear extension housing over output shaft and
on to guide studs. Using tool C-496 with adapter
C-3284, press extension housing into position
against output shaft support. See Figure 126.
Start the seven transmission extension to case
screws and lockwashers then draw down evenly 45x2154
and torque from 25 to 30 ft. lbs. Tighten the output
shaft support to case screw from 25 to 30 ft. lbs. Figure 127 — Removal or Installation of
Speedometer Drive Pinion
After these screws have been properly torqued,
turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely.
Coat nylon gear and threads on speedometer
drive pinion with Lubriplate and install in trans-
mission extension. Torque from 40 to 45 ft. lbs. See
Figure 127.
DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION OF VALVE

BODY AND TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY
Place the assembly in stand C-3294. Do not use

vise to hold assembly. Remove two of the long
C-3205 DRIVER REAR transfer plate cover screws and lockwashers and
OUTPUT SHAFT EXTENSION install guide studs C-3295. Keep finger pressure
REAR BEARING HOUSING against the transfer plate and remove the 3 re-
OIL SEAL maining cover screws. Then remove cover. See
Figure 128. Remove the transfer plate from the
valve body plate using care so as not to lose the
servo restrictor valve operating plug. See Figure
129.
45x2152
Figure 125 — Installing Output Shaft Rear TRANSFER PLATE

COVER
Bearing Oil Seal
7
C-3295
GUIDE STUD
TOOL
C-3283 GUIDE STUD
Figure 126 — Installing Transmission Extension

Housing Figure 128 — Removal of Transfer Plate Cover
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 341
TRANSFER PLATE Note position of the front and rear pump check
ASSEMBLY
valves in the transfer plate. The rear pump check
valve has a metering hole.
PUMP Remove the valve body plate from the valve
CHECK body. See Figure 130. The servo bleed valve may
VALVE
stick to the valve body plate. Note the position of
the servo bleed valve and throttle pressure check
valve ball in the valve body. See Figure 131. Re-
SERVO move both valves and place in a clean container.
RESTRICTOR
VALVE
GUIDE STUD OPERATING Compress the throttle valve operating lever as-
PLUG sembly against the throttle valve operating lever
assembly against the throttle valve spring and
slide the throttle valve cam assembly from the
manual valve lever assembly. See Figure 132.
VALVE BODY PLATE . 1 Jhfc> w i y w 55P1264

IMPORTANT
Figure 129 — Removal of Transfer Plate Assembly Remove any burrs from the throttle valve
camshaft and manual valve lever shaft before
removing them from the valve body.
VALVE BODY PLATE
Rotate the throttle valve operating lever out of

the way and remove the throttle valve spring and
retainer from throttle valve. Then remove throttle
valve from valve body. Measure distance from the
GUiDE ÓTUD valve body to the end of the throttle valve operat-
ing lever adjusting screw. This distance should be
VALVE BODY approximately 1-11/16 inches. See Figure 134. It is
ASSEMBLY
not necessary to remove the lever or adjusting
screw unless replacement parts are required.
Remove the four (three long and one short) valve
body end cover plate screws and lockwashers.
55P1266 Then remove plate. See Figure 135.
Keep finger pressure on valve body end cover
Figure 130 — Removal of Valve Body Plate
and remove the end screw. Carefully remove the
55P1268
Figure 132 — Removal or Installation of Throttle

Figure 131—Valve Body Assembly Valve Cam Assembly
MyMopar.com
SCREW
LOCKWASHER
SCREW
SCREW
TRANSFER PLATE COVER •``¯``^ `* *¯¯¯~¯~^£*. - J

I
LOCKWASHER
SCREW
TRANSFER PLATE
SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE
THROTTLE VALVE CAM

PUMP CHECK
PUMPVALVE SPRING
CHECK VALVE
PLUG
SHUTTLE VALVE PACKAGE

MANUAL VALVE BODY PLATE
VALVE
MANUAL VALVE LEVER T H R O m E VALVE
SERVO BLEED
SHIFT VALVE SPRING OPERATING LEVER
VALVE
ASSY.
THROTTLE
PLUG
PRESSURE
CHECK BALL ^ ^ ^
SCREW SPRING
LOCKWASHER
PLATE
END COVER
KICKDOWN VALVE SPRING VALVE BODY
KICKDOWN VALVE BALL

MANUAL VALVE DETENT BALL SPRING
THROTTLEjÿö 5 Ä
MANUAL VALVE DETENT BALL VALVE SPRING
KICKDOWN ROD
THROTTLE VALVE RETAINER
55P1265
Figure 133 — Valve Body and Transfer Plate

Disassembled
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 343
VALVE BODY VALv'F BCt·Y
\ANUÂL VALVE
THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING

LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW
DìRf^CT CLUTCH SHIFT VAÍV£
THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING

LEVER ASSEMBLY 55P1272
Figure 134 — Adjusting Throttle Valve Figure 137 — Removal or Installation of Direct
Operating Lever Clutch Shift Valve
end cover to prevent losing any of the four springs

or the kickdown valve ball. Remove the shuttle
valve spring, and shuttle valve. See Figure 136.
Remove the direct clutch shaft valve spring.
Remove the direct clutch shaft valve and spring.
See Figure 137. Then remove snap ring from kick-
down rod and pull rod from valve body.
"· `~ VALVE BODY
Using a screwdriver compress the detent ball
. VALVE BODY END
and slide out manual valve lever until it is dis-
T O V t k ASSEMBLY
engaged from detent ball.
`¯```¯ SHUTTLE VALVE PLUG
VALVE BODY END COVER SCREW CLEANING AND INSPECTION OF VALVE

BODY AND TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY
VALVE BODY END COVER PLATE
S5P!27C
Place all parts in clean solvent. Wash thorough-
Figure 135 — Removal or Installation of Valve
ly and dry with compressed air. Inspect all pas-
Body End Cover Plate
sages to be sure they are free of obstructions. Also
inspect castings for evidence of porosity. Remove
small nicks or burrs from mating surfaces with
VALVE BODY crocus cloth. Check parallelism of mating sur-
faces with straight edge tool C-3335. Using a light,
inspect bores in valve body for score marks or
pitting.
Inspect the valves and plugs for burrs or nicks.
Crocus cloth can be used provided that the sharp
edges of the valves or plugs are not rounded off.
The sharp edge prevents dirt from wedging be-
tween the bore and valve, thus reducing the pos-
¯ ¯ SHUTTLE VALVE sibility of sticking. Check the operation of the
SHUTTLE VALVE STOP RING
valves and plugs in their respective bores. They
`` SHUTTLE VALVE OUTER SPRING
should work freely when clean and dry.
Inspect detents on manual valve lever, lever pin,
¯^¯ DIRECT CLUTCH SHIFT VALVE SPRING and detent plunger for wear.
Inspect the throttle valve operating lever roller
Figure 136 — Removal or Installation of Shuttle for binding. Inspect the adjusting screw and pin
Valve Assembly for wear. Make sure screw rotates freely in lever.
MyMopar.com
SERVO RESTRICTOR Inspect the kickdown valve rod for wear and
VALVE scoring and also the bore in the valve body. In-
spect the kickdown valve ball seat in valve body.
Check the servo restrictor valve in the transfer
plate to make sure valve is seating properly. See
TRANSFER PLATE
Figure 138. If it is necessary to replace the valve
extreme caution must be exercised when removing
the drive screw so that the transfer plate is not
distorted.
Inspect valve body plate and make sure all
ports are open. Inspect the pump check valve and
springs in the transfer plate. See Figure 138.
ASSEMBLY OF VALVE BODY
Figure 138 — Location of Servo Restrictor Valve Place manual valve lever detent ball spring and
detent ball in valve body. Slide the manual valve
lever assembly into the valve body. With a rotat-
PUMP CHECK
ing motion slide the manual valve into the valve
TRANSFER PLATE body just enough to engage the manual valve.
VALVE A N D SPRING
Using a small screwdriver compress the manual
\ valve detent ball into the valve body. See Figure
140. Press the valve lever until it snaps over the
detent ball. See Figure 141.
Place the kickdown rod with the large end to-
ward the end cover into the valve body and install
the snap ring.
Install the direct clutch shift valve plug into the
valve body. Place the direct shift valve plug into
position in the valve body aligning the marks
previously made during disassembly. Tighten the
two screws 24 to 30 inch pounds being sure that
the plug is properly seated. Install the direct clutch
Figure 139 — Pump Check Valve and Spring shift valve spring in the valve.
Install the shuttle valve in the valve body. Coat
the stop ring lightly with grease and place it into
the recess in the valve body. Place the shuttle
valve spring in the shuttle valve. See Figure 136.
Place the kickdown valve ball into the valve
body. Place the valve body end cover plate on end
cover. Then install the one short screw and lock-
washer and tighten snugly. Place the shuttle
valve plug in end cover. Then install the end cover
on the valve body, but do not tighten the end screw.
Make sure shuttle valve, direct clutch shift valve
and kickdown valve springs are properly seated
MANUAL VALVE LEVER when installing the end cover. Install the cover
DETENT BALL
plate screws and tighten to 24 to 30 inch pounds.
SPRING Install the throttle valve adjusting screw and
55PÏ273 throttle valve operating lever assembly. Distance
between valve body and end of throttle valve
Figure 140 — Compressing Manual Valve Detent operating adjusting screw should be 1-11/16 inch
Spring and Ball as shown in Figure 134.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 345
MANUAL VALVE
LEVER with the metering hole should be toward rear of
transmission. Place the valve body plate flush into
position on the transfer plate by compressing the
AANUAL VALVE
pump check valve springs.
IMPORTANT
Make sure that the pump check valves enter
the tranfer plate as the valve body plate is
compressed, otherwise damage will result to
the valves, valve body plate, or transfer plate
when the screws are tightened.
MANUAL VALVfc LEVER
DETENT BAU
Keep sufficient pressure on the transfer plate and

Figure 141—Installing Manual Valve and Lever valve body plate to hold them together. Place the
assembly over the guide studs and into position
on the valve body. Install two of the screws and
lockwashers being sure that check valves are still
Install the throttle valve in the valve body with in position. Remove guide studs and install re-
the point outward. Place the throttle valve spring maining two screws and lockwashers. Tighten
and retainer over throttle valve. evenly to 45 to 50 inch pounds. Check operation
Swing the throttle valve operating lever over of check valves.
the spring and retainer. Compress the throttle
valve operating lever assembly against the throt- INSTALLATION OF VALVE BODY AND
tle valve spring. Slide the throttle valve cam TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY
assembly into manual valve lever assembly, Clean mating surfaces and check for burrs on
indexing cam in slot of operating lever. See Figure both the transmission case and valve body. For
132. Install the servo bleed valve and throttle the purpose of identifying the oil passages only
pressure check valve ball in valve body and in- refer to Figure 143. Place valve body and transfer
stall guide studs C-3295. See Figure 130. plate into position on transmission case. Install
Position the transfer plate cover on transfer the five transfer plate screws and lockwashers.
plate and install the center screw (short) and lock-
washer finger tight. Install the servo restrictor CAUTION
valve operating plug (long end first) into the trans-
Two screws are l¾ inches long. These go
fer plate. See Figure 142. Place pump check valves
through the transfer plate cover on valve body.
in transfer plate. See Figure 139. The check valve
The other three are ì¼ inches long. Draw
screws down evenly and torque from 12 to 17
SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE OPERATING PLUG
ft. lbs.
Make sure the two oil strainer tube seals are in

position on oil strainer and place oil strainer as-
TRANSFER
PLATE
sembly into position on valve body. Install the
two oil strainer support screws (1-1/4 inches long)
and lockwashers. Torque from 12 to 17 ft. lbs.
CAUTION
Make sure oil tubes on strainer properly

enter the valve body.
Place the manual valve lever shaft seal cover

Figure 142 — Installing Servo Restr¡ctor Valve over the manual valve lever shaft. Install the
Operating Plug manual control lever (arm side of lever against
MyMopar.com
THROTTLE PRESSURE KICKDOWN O N PRESSURE
REVERSE PRESSURE, KICKDOWN OFF PRESSURE
PRESSURE TO
REGULATOR VALVE
FRONT PUMP
SUCTION
FRONT PUMP
CHECK VALVE
UPSET PRESSURE TO
REGULATOR VALVE
DIRECT CLUTCH
REAR PUMP CHECK VALVE PRESSURE
TO PRESSURE GAUGE
(FOR SERVICE)
55P1277 GOVERNOR PRESSURE
Figure 143 — O i l Passages i n Bottom of

Transmission Case
cover) on manual valve lever shaft, and tighten

locking screw. Place the throttle valve camshaft NOTE
felt and retainer over the throttle valve shaft. In-
stall throttle valve lever assembly on the throttle When torque converter assembly is removed
camshaft, and tighten locking screw. Check opera- from the crankshaft drive flange for any rea-
tion of controls by shifting the manual control into son, the converter assembly runout should
the four operating positions. be checked when reinstalled. Runout should
not exceed .004 total indicator reading.
Check the throttle cam position in throttle oper-
ating lever assembly and throttle camshaft as-
sembly for kickdown operation. Visually check the INSTALLATION OF TRANSMISSION
manual valve lever contact on neutral starter and
back-up light switches. Using a new oil pan gasket, Install guide studs C-3276 in the two upper trans-
place oil pan into position on transmission case. mission case to adapter screw holes. Lubricate
Install the eighteen oil pan screws and washer front oil pump drive sleeve ring and bearing
assemblies, drawing them down evenly, and surface with lubriplate and install in torque con-
torque from 12 to 17 ft. lbs. Tighten oil pan drain verter hub, making sure driving lugs are properly
plug from 20 to 25 ft. lbs. engaged.
Note position of driving lugs on front oil pump
INSTALLATION OF TORQUE CONVERTER drive sleeve, then position front oil pump pinion
AND HOUSING accordingly to aid in proper engagement when
transmission is installed. Slide transmission over
Inspect mating surfaces on torque converter and guide studs and into position. Make sure driving
crankshaft flange for burrs and dirt. Install torque lugs on front oil pump drive sleeve properly en-
converter on crankshaft. Install the eight torque gage the front oil pump pinion.
converter stud nuts and lockwashers. Draw down
evenly and tighten 55 to 60 ft. lbs. Install torque Install the two lower transmission case to
converter housing and tighten screws 25 to 30 ft. adapter screws and lockwashers. Do not tighten.
lbs. Install starting motor. Remove guide studs and install the two upper
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 347
gear, will be more pronounced while the car is

CAUTION driven in second gear. When the transmission is
in high, low or reverse gear, the noise caused will
To avoid damage to front oil pump, do not
be indistinct.
attempt to use transmission to torque converter
housing screws to bring transmission and 3. LOW AND REVERSE SLIDING GEAR —A
torque converter housing together. If oil pump worn or damaged low and reverse sliding gear
drive sleeve and input shaft have been proper- will be noisy only while the transmission is in
ly aligned, the transmission should slide into either of these two gears. If the sliding gear is in
position relatively easy. Do not use force. good condition, and a noise is heard when low
gear is used, it indicates that the cluster gear is at
fault. If noise is heard when the reverse gear is
transmission case to adapter screws and lock- used, the reverse idler, or mating cluster gear, may
washers, then draw the four down evenly and be worn or damaged.
torque from 45 to 50 ft. lbs. Place crossmember into
position and install the crossmember to frame 4. ROLLER BEARINGS OR CLUSTER GEAR
bolts. Torque from 50 to 55 ft. lbs. Lower engine SHAFT — Damaged roller bearings, or a worn
and at the same time align mounting holes in cluster gear shaft, will create more noise when the
crossmember. Install the two nuts and lockwashers transmission is in low, second and reverse gear,
that hold the engine rear support insulator to the rather than when the transmission is in high gear.
crossmember and torque from 30 to 35 ft. lbs.
5. PINION SHAFT BEARING —A pinion shaft
Remove support fixture tool C-3245 from side of bearing noise can often be determined by dis-
frame member. Install oil pan filler tube and torque engaging and engaging the clutch with the engine
filler tube nut from 35 to 40 ft. lbs. Connect throttle running and the transmission in neutral. The noise
and manual control linkage to levers. Connect should disappear when the clutch is disengaged
neutral starter and back-up wires to switches. and the pinion stops. But, with this test, other
Connect speedometer cable. Engage ball end of similar noises may be heard, if the following con-
hand brake cable in operating lever and install stant mesh gears are worn or damaged: pinion
cable clamp bolt. Install adjusting screw cover gear, front cluster gear, second speed cluster gear,
plate on hand brake support. Install propeller second speed mainshaft gear, reverse cluster gear,
shaft and torque nuts from 33 to 37 ft. lbs. Refill and reverse idler gear.
transmission. Connect battery. Adjust manual and
throttle control linkage. 6. CLUSTER GEAR OR REVERSE IDLER GEAR
—Noise caused by damaged roller bearings or
12. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES shaft, in either the cluster gear or reverse idler
gear, will also be apparent when test is made.
STANDARD TRANSMISSION 7. MAINSHAFT BEARING—A mainshaft bear-
NOISES ing noise can usually be determined by driving the
car in high gear at a speed where the noise is more
It is always wise, when diagnosing transmission apparent, and then shifting into neutral, shutting
noise, to note the gear position in which the noise off the engine and coasting. This action stops the
occurs. Noise present in all gear positions may be operation of the pinion bearing and then any noise
due to worn or damaged constant mesh gear or (in either the center or rear bearing) may be heard.
bearings. Noise present in only one gear position
can usually be traced to the particular gear 8. DRIVE PINION PILOT BUSHING—The noise
involved. made by a worn drive pinion pilot bushing (in the
1. PINION GEAR AND MATING CLUSTER rear end of the crankshaft) is usually apparent
GEAR—The sound made by a worn or damaged while coasting in low or second gear at moderate
pinion gear, or a mating cluster gear, will have speeds, with the transmission in gear and the
about the same tone when the transmission is in clutch disengaged, or during a cold start, with the
low, second or reverse gears. But, it will be hardly transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged.
noticeable when the transmission is in high gear. 9. EXCESSIVE BACKLASH AND END PLAY —
2. SECOND SPEED GEAR OR MATING Noises caused by excessive backlash, or end play,
CLUSTER GEAR—The noise caused by a worn or are similar. To determine which condition exists,
damaged second speed gear, or a mating cluster it will be necessary to check backlash or end play.
MyMopar.com
(a) Backlash—If backlash appears to be exces- (d) Idler Gear—A tight idler gear due to dam-
sive, check the mating gears for wear or improper aged roller bearings will cause hard shifting into
fitting. If excessive backlash is present, it will be and out of low and reverse gears.
more apparent in second gear. If in high gear, the
3. ONE OR MORE GEARS
noise would be due to excessive end play, rather
than excessive backlash. (a) Shifter Mechanism—It it is difficult to shift
into one or more gears, the following parts may
(b) End Play—To determine if end play is ex- be broken, damaged, or loose: gearshift housing
cessive, check the thrust washers or snap rings shift lever, shift lever shaft, shifter rails, shifter
for wear, improper fitting or any condition which forks or shifter fork guide rail.
will allow too much endwise movement of parts.
End play may be checked without removing the (b) Control Rods—Inspect for bent control rods.
transmission from the car by removing the gear 4. ALL GEARS—It the clutch is dragging, it may
shift housing only. See page 279. be difficult to shift into or out of all gear positions,
particularly low and reverse.
HARD SHIFTING
J. HIGH OR SECOND GEARS SLIPPING OUT OF GEAR
(a) Shifter Linkage—If the selector rod is ad- Slipping out of gear is usually the result of a
justed too short, the up-and-down movement of the condition which prevents complete gear engage-
gearshift lever in the neutral position will be ment, such as, misalignment or excessive clear-
limited and hard shifting into second and high ances. Restricted travel of the shifter linkage is the
gears may result. most common cause of slipping out of gear.
(b) Shifter Fork and Stop Ring—Hard shifting J. HIGH GEAR
into second or high gears, or failure to complete a (a) Misalignment—Inspect for misalignment be-
shift into these gears, may be caused by a binding tween the clutch bell housing and engine; between
action due to a loose shifter fork, or the locking of the transmission case and clutch housing, and
the stop rings to the second speed gear or drive between the mainshaft and drive pinion. See
pinion. If the latter condition occurs, the shifter page 287.
collar is prevented from aligning the teeth of the
stop ring with the clutch teeth on the second speed (b) Excessive Wear—Inspect the following parts
gear or drive pinion, making a complete shift im- for wear or damage: pinion bearing, mainshaft
possible. If this occurs frequently, the stop ring bearings, drive pinion clutch teeth, synchronizer
should be replaced. clutch teeth, shifter rail detents, shifter forks or
shifter fork set screws.
(c) Synchronizer Assembly—Hard shifting into
high or second gear may also result if the following 2. SECOND GEAR
parts are damaged or worn: Clutch gear sleeve, (a) Misalignment—Inspect alignment between
clutch gear, stop rings, shifting plates, plate clutch housing and engine, and between transmis-
springs, clutch gear snap ring. A broken or sion and clutch housing.
damaged selector and cam assembly will also (b) Excessive Wear—Inspect pinion bearing and
cause hard shifting. mainshaft bearing, synchronizer clutch teeth, sec-
2. LOW OR REVERSE GEARS ond speed gear clutch teeth, shifter rail detents,
shifter forks or shifter fork set screws, for wear.
(a) Shifter Linkage—Hard shifting into low or
reverse gear may result if the selector rod is ad- (c) End Play—Inspect the pinion shaft, counter-
justed too long. shaft gear and second speed mainshaft gear, for
excessive end play.
(b) Shifter Fork or Shifter Rail—A loose fork or
shifter rail may cause binding action and result 3. LOW AND REVERSE GEARS
in hard shifting. (a) Excessive Wear—Inspect the following parts
for wear or damage: mainshaft sliding gear spline,
(c) Low and Reverse Gears—Failure to shift into
low or reverse, without re-engaging the clutch, is sliding gear, countershaft gear, countershaft, re-
generally due to "gear butting" which is caused verse idler gear shaft, shifter rail detents, reverse
by the leading edges, or bevels of the gears, being idler gear, shifter forks or shifter fork set screws.
flattened by continual unnecessary gear clashing (b) End Play—Inspect for excessive end play in
on the part of the driver. countershaft gear.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 349
LEAKAGE 3. CONTROL CIRCUIT—li steps (1 and 2) are

satisfactory connect a jumper wire between the
1. GASKETS—Inspect gaskets for damage or
wire terminal on top of the governor, and ground.
wrinkles at following points: transmission to clutch
If relay clicks, the control circuit is good from the
housing; gearshift housing to transmission case;
horn relay to the governor.
extension to transmission case, and pinion bearing
retainer. 4. ROAD TEST—Check the governor operation
2. GROMMETS—Inspect grommets for deterio- by road test. Leave the jumper wire connected to
ration at extension screws and pinion bearing the terminal on top of the governor and run the
retainer screws. other end of the wire inside the car. Drive the car
and bring it up to the overdrive cut-in speed and
3. WASHERS—Inspect washers on selector ball attempt to make the shift. If it will not shift, ground
spring screw for damage. the wire. If the overdrive cuts-in, it will be neces-
sary to clean the governor contacts. If the over-
4. MÄINSHÄFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL—In- drive still fails to cut-in replace the governor cover
spect for wear or damage. and contact point assembly.
5. SPEEDOMETER PINION—Inspect speedome-
5. SOLENOID CIRCUIT — Assuming that the
ter pinion seal for wear.
control circuit is operating properly to complete
6. IMPROPER FITS—Inspect for proper fit at fol- the circuit through the relay, but the solenoid
lowing points: pinion bearing retainer and trans- doesn't click, check out the solenoid circuit from
mission case, and countershaft at front of trans- the "BAT" terminal of the horn relay to the sole-
mission case. noid. Do this with a test light. With the ignition
key "ON" and one of the "A" terminals of the
Inspect the drive pinion bearing retainer for kickdown switch grounded, the test lamp should
proper location of the end of the oil return thread light at each of the connection points. If the test
in relation to the slot in this retainer. lamp does not light, look for a broken wire or a
loose connection.
NOTE 6. SOLENOID POINTS—If the solenoid circuit
Leakage at pinion bearing retainer gaskets, checks out up to the number four terminal of the
or grommets, will be indicated by traces of oil solenoid, remove the solenoid cover and clean
in clutch housing pan. This should not be con- and inspect the closing coil points. If the points
fused with leakage of the crankshaft rear main are making good contact, but still the solenoid
bearing oil seal. does not operate, replace the solenoid.
OVERDRIVE WILL NOT DISENGAGE

OVERDRIVE This condition is produced by causes just the
reverse of those which prevent the unit from shift-
OVERDRIVE WILL NOT ENGAGE ing into overdrive. In other words, instead of the
It will be necessary to check the solenoid and control or solenoid circuits not being completed,
control circuits. See Figures 17 and 18. Turn the they are not being broken when they should.
ignition key to the "ON" position and push the Therefore, the solenoid remains energized and
overdrive handle in. holds the pawl in the control plate.
J. SOLENOID—Ground one of the "A" termi- J. DETERMINE WHETHER ELECTRICAL OR
nals of the kickdown switch. A click from the relay MECHANICAL — A simple test to determine
indicates that points have closed. A second click whether this is caused by an electrical or a me-
indicates the solenoid is being energized. chanical condition is to push the control handle
"IN" and turn the ignition key "ON." If a click is
2. FUSE—If no click is heard from the solenoid heard, the control circuit is grounded.
hold the ground at the "A" terminal of the kick-
down switch and remove the fuse. A click should 2. ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS — Pull the control
be heard in the solenoid as the fuse is withdrawn handle out and turn the key "ON" again. If a click
and another click heard as the fuse is replaced. If is still heard in the relay, the ground is between
none is heard check to see if fuse is burned out. the horn relay and the rail lockout switch. If no
Also check fuse contact in holder for corrosion. click is heard in the relay with the control handle
MyMopar.com
out, but a click is heard with the control handle in, which "B" terminal is connected. If test lamp lights,
the ground is between the rail lockout switch and move the connection to the other "B" terminal.
the governor, or in either oí those two units.
2. ADJUSTING KICKDOWN SWITCH — If the
3. MECHANICAlr-li no click is heard in the test lamp does not light when the pedal is de-
overdrive relay with the control handle in and the pressed, adjust the lock nuts on the switch to posi-
ignition key turned "ON" the electrical circuit is tion the switch correctly. Further adjustment may
probably all right, and there is some mechanical be made by loosening the mounting bracket nut
difficulty preventing the pawl from being pulled and rotating the bracket until it is flat against the
out of the control plate. This could be a broken cylinder head. Then make a final adjustment of
return spring in the solenoid, or the solenoid pawl the locking nuts.
rod may not be connected to the pawl.
ENGINE STALLS DURING KICKDOWN
4. RELAY POINTS — With the ignition key
"OFF," connect a test lamp between the solenoid If the engine stalls during the kickdown opera-
terminal ("SOL") of the overdrive relay, and tion, it means that the ignition current is not being
ground. If the test lamp lights, it indicates that the restored to the engine following ignition interrup-
relay points are stuck closed and the relay must tion. This could be due to the ignition ground points
be replaced. sticking and not opening when the solenoid is de-
energized. Another possibility, although remote,
5. GOVERNOR—With the ignition key "ON,"
is that the fiber block on the underside of the con-
check out the control circuit to find the ground by
tact pilot spring is missing so the ignition circuit
starting at the rail lockout switch. Disconnect the
remains grounded even though the ground points
wire between the lockout switch and the governor.
are open.
If a click is heard in the relay, the ground is either
in the governor itself or in the wire just discon- Another condition which would prevent re-estab-
nected. lishing the ignition circuit, would be a ground at
the "B" terminal of the kickdown switch that leads
6. LOCKOUT SWITCH — If no click is heard to the solenoid. If the terminal is grounded, the
when the wire is disconnected, disconnect the wire ignition circuit would be grounded as long as the
at the lockout switch, which leads to the kickdown "B" contacts are bridged, but would be restored as
switch. If a click is then heard, the ground is in the soon as the kickdown switch plunger moves away
lockout switch. Disconnect both wires from the from the "B" contacts. If the ignition ground points
lockout switch and touch them together. If the are sticking, and cleaning them does not correct
relay does not click, the ground is in the lockout the condition, replace the solenoid. If the fiber
switch and it must be replaced. block on the underside of the contact point spring
7. CIRCUIT WIRES—Continue the same test at is missing, replace the solenoid. If there is a
the kickdown switch if the ground has not been ground at one of the "B" terminals of the kickdown
located up to this point. When a wire is discon- switch the switch will have to be replaced.
nected and a click is heard in the relay, the ground
is between that point and the last point checked. POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION
OVERDRIVE WILL NOT KICK DOWN EXCESSIVE SLIPPAGE
This indicates an open circuit in the ignition J. ALL RANGES—Inspect oil level. Adjust gear-
interruption circuit, and could be caused by lack shift linkage. Check oil pressure; if low, inspect
of contact at the "B" terminals of the kickdown regulator valve and torque converter control valve
switch. If this switch is slightly out of position, the for sticking. Inspect valve body to transmission
plunger will not be moved into the switch far case mating surfaces for evidence of oil leakage.
enough to bridge the "B" contacts. The position of
2. KICKDOWN—Readjust throttle linkage and
the kickdown switch may be checked with the aid
kickdown band. Inspect valve body to transmis-
of a test lamp.
sion case mating surfaces for oil leakage. Check
1. CHECKING KICKDOWN SWITCH—Connect operation of throttle valve and note wear of valve
the test lamp between one of the "B" terminals of bore and cam. Check spring. Check valve body
the kickdown switch and the battery. Ground the end cover for oil leakage. Check shuttle valve for
other "B" terminal. The test lamp may come on free movement. Inspect kickdown piston and guide
before the accelerator pedal is depressed (if the for binding. Inspect spring. Inspect band lining for
distributor points are closed), depending upon wear and band lever for free movement.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 351
3. KICKDOWN (Over 25 M.P.HJ—Inspect valve mission oil out through the filler tube. Screw a
body end cover for oil leakage. Inspect shuttle piece of ¼" pipe into the hole to help direct the air
valve and plug for free movement. Inspect spring. into the unit. Then put the compressed air nozzle
at the other end of the pipe. As you apply short
4. DIRECT—Inspect valve body to transmission blasts of clean filtered air to the tube, tap the
case mating surfaces for evidence of oil pressure parking brake drum simultaneously with a rubber
leakage. Check kickdown piston for binding. hammer just enough to jar the governor.
Check shaft seal rings and clutch retainer bushing
for wear. Check clutch discs, piston, and clutch After applying the air pressure, check the gov-
check valve ball. ernor pressure again and see if the governor valve
has been freed up.
5. REVERSE—Check reverse band adjustment.
Inspect transmission case to valve body mating In cases where the governor pressure is still
surfaces for evidence of oil leakage. Inspect re- too high, it will then be necessary to remove the
verse servo assembly for wear or binding. Inspect transmission extension case for further inspection.
reverse lever and linkage for free movement.
3. LOW UPSHIFT PATTERN—Readjust throttle
6. HILL CLIMBING—Insufficient oil will result in linkage. Check governor pressure. Governor valve
low pressures to kickdown servo or direct clutch may be binding or sticking. Inspect the rear pump
if oil level is low. assembly. Check valve body to transmission case
mating surfaces for parallelism. Check operation
SHIFT PATTERN of throttle valve and inspect the cam and spring.
Check shift valve for free operation and spring
J. NO UPSHIFT—Check oil level and gearshift
for breakage.
linkage adjustment. Check governor and throttle
pressure. If there is no pressure rise when acceler- 4. LOW UPSHIFT PATTERN AT HEAVY THROT-
ating engine in direct drive, governor valve may TLE—Inspect the regulator valve, throttle valve,
be stuck closed. Check valve body to transfer case and governor for burrs or dirt which would cause
for parallelism. Check manual valve and lever for binding or sticking. Inspect the regulator spring.
correct detent engagement. Check shift valve for
free operation and shift valve spring for breakage. 5. HIGH UPSHIFT PATTERN—Readjust throttle
Check kickdown piston assembly. Check rear linkage and check both throttle and governor pres-
pump drive pinion. Drive pinion ball may be sure. Adjust throttle pressure if necessary. If
cracked or broken, permitting pinion gear to slip. throttle pressure does not rise according to speeds
Inspect clutch ball check for proper operation. Ball on chart in Pressure Checks section, throttle valve
check valve must operate freely and seat properly. may be sticking. Inspect for dirt or burrs. Inspect
throttle cam for wear. Check valve body to trans-
2. NO SHIFT IN DRIVE RANGE AND AN UP-
mission case mating surfaces for parallelism.
SHIFT IN LOW RANGE—The cause is the gover-
Check shift valve spring. If governor pressure does
nor valve sticking open. This can be verified by
not correspond to governor pressure chart in Pres-
checking governor pressure. The pressure must
sure Checks section, remove governor and inspect
not exceed approximately 15 lbs. at engine speed
valve for sticking. Check rear pump gears for
of 12 to 14 MPH, 45 lbs. at 19 to 23 MPH and 60 lbs.
wear, broken teeth or excessive clearance. Inspect
at 41 to 48 MPH. The governor pressure can be
pump drive pinion ball.
easily checked. Jack up the rear wheels of the car
and attach a hydraulic gauge at the governor pres- 6. ALL UPSHIFTS BELOW 14 MPH — Inspect
sure take-off. This is a small brass plug behind the throttle valve, cam and spring. Check throttle pres-
neutral switch on the same side of the transmis- sure check ball. Check governor valve for sticking.
sion as the speedometer pinion. Start the engine.
Put transmission in drive range. 7. ERRATIC SHIFTING—Check oil level. Inspect
transmission case to valve body mating surfaces
If the pressure exceeds the above amount, a
for parallelism. Check action of shift valve. Inspect
governor valve stuck open is indicated and most
governor support gaskets for oil leakage.
cases can be corrected in the following manner:
Clean off the area around the governor pres- 8. NO DOWNSHIFT—Check governor pressure.
sure take-off plug and remove the plug. Cover the High initial pressure indicates valve is stuck open.
oil filler tube with a cloth or plug and hold firmly Remove governor and inspect. Inspect shift valve
in place to prevent the air from forcing the trans- action. Check spring.
MyMopar.com
9. LOW DOWNSHIFT SPEED—Governor valve Inspect condition of reaction shaft oil seal rings
is partially stuck open. Remove and clean. Check for wear or broken ends. Inspect condition of
for burrs and dirt. clutch plates and condition of friction material on
seal ring. Check clutch check valve ball.
JO. HIGH DOWNSHIFT SPEED—Readjust gear-
shift linkage. Inspect valve body to transmission 5. EXCESSIVE ENGINE SPEED INCREASE ON
case mating surfaces for parallelism. Inspect UPSHIFTS AT LIGHT THROTTLE — Check line
manual valve and lever. Inspect the kickdown pressure. Inspect front oil pump gears for wear
valve ball and rod. and excessive clearance.
11. KICKDOWN AT PART THROTTLE—Read- 6. HARSH UPSHIFT — Adjust throttle linkage.
just gearshift linkage. Inspect valve body to trans- Inspect regulator valve and spring. Check for
mission case mating surfaces for parallelism. In- sticking shuttle valve. Check valve body mating
spect manual valve and lever. Inspect the kick- surface for parallelism. Inspect throttle valve, cam
down valve ball and rod. and spring. Inspect kickdown piston components.
12. NO KICKDOWN—Adjust throttle linkage. Check regulator valve body mating surface for
Inspect valve body to transmission case mating parallelism. Inspect direct clutch spring, spring
surfaces for parallelism. Inspect throttle valve, retainer and snap ring for breakage.
cam and spring. Also inspect kickdown valve and
shift valve components. 7. HARSH LIFT FOOT SHIFT—Adjust throttle
linkage. Check valve body mating surface for
13. LOW KICKDOWN LIMIT—Check governor parallelism. Check operation of throttle valve. In-
pressure. Governor valve may be sticking due to spect valve, valve bore, cam and spring. Inspect
dirt. Inspect regulator valve and spring for proper servo pressure bleed valve for dirt. Check opera-
operation. Inspect rear pump gears and drive tion of shuttle valve. Inspect shuttle valve, plug,
pinion ball. Check valve body cover plate for inner and outer springs and guide pin.
parallelism.
8. EXCESSIVE ENGINE SPEED INCREASE ON
SHIFT QUALITY DOWNSHIFT AT PART THROTTLE — Check oil
level and adjust throttle and gearshift linkage.
1. HARSH SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL TO RE- Check valve body mating surface for parallelism.
VERSE—Adjust engine idle speed. Readjust rear Check operation of manual valve and valve lever.
band. Inspect condition of the reverse band, strut Inspect servo restrictor valve and operating plug.
and linkage. Inspect the reverse servo piston, Check plug for free operation. Check valve spring
spring, valve and rings. for distortion or looseness.
2. HARSH SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL TO DRIVE— 9. HARSH DOWNSHIFT — Adjust engine idle
Adjust engine idle speed. Adjust throttle linkage. speed. Adjust throttle linkage. Inspect valve body
Inspect kickdown servo pistons, springs, guide, rod mating surface for parallelism. Inspect the throttle
and piston rings. valve, cam and spring for proper operation. In-
3. DELAYED SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL TO DRIVE spect for dirt, burrs, wear or breakage. Inspect
—Adjust kickdown band. Inspect condition of servo restrictor valve for proper operation. Inspect
band, strut, lever and lever shaft. clutch plates and disc friction material. Inspect the
piston for wear or scoring. Check seal for wear or
4. EXCESSIVE ENGINE SPEED INCREASE ON deterioration which would result in leakage. In-
UPSHIFTS—Check oil level and adjust throttle spect thrust washers for excessive wear.
linkage. Inspect regulator valve and spring and
check operation of valve in regulator valve body. JO. EXCESSIVE INCREASE IN ENGINE SPEED
Check valve body, mating surface for parallelism. ON KICKDOWN—Readjust kickdown band. Check
Inspect throttle valve, cam and spring. Check regulator valve and spring for proper operation.
operation of valve in valve body. Inspect kick- Inspect for dirt, burrs, or breakage. Check valve
down piston components. Check mating surfaces body mating surface for parallelism, nick, burrs
of regulator valve body and transmission for which would cause leakage. Check operation of
parallelism. Inspect reaction shaft seal ring for servo restrictor valve. Check operations of shuttle
deterioration. Inspect input shaft oil seal rings for valve. Inspect valve and plug for dirt, burrs or
wear or breakage and condition of reaction shaft wear. Inspect all parts of kickdown piston assem-
bore. Inspect the clutch retainer bronze bushing. bly. Inspect piston rings for excessive wear or
If worn below bronze surface, replace retainer. broken ends. Check governor valve for wear, dirt,
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION 353
binding or sticking. Inspect the rear pump gears pressure as outlined in 1. No Governor Pressure,
for excessive wear or broken teeth. Check clear- to dislodge particle. This method may not be a
ance. Inspect drive pinion gear and pinion ball. permanent correction. If the valve again becomes
stuck in the open position, remove governor for
11. HARSH KICKDOWN — Adjust kickdown servicing.
band. Inspect regulator valve and spring. Inspect
for dirt, burrs, or breakage. Inspect servo pressure 3. LINE PRESSURE—It line pressure does not
bleed valve for dirt. Check operation of shuttle correspond to the line pressure chart on page 310
valve. Check valve and plug for burrs, dirt, or it will be necessary to investigate and make the
excessive wear. Inspect all parts of kickdown following adjustments or corrections.
piston assembly. Inspect piston rings for scoring, Check the transmission oil level. Inspect the
wear, or broken ends. Inspect regulator valve regulator valve for free operation, dirt or burrs,
body mating surface for parallelism, nicks, burrs and condition of valve spring. Check the valve
which would cause leakage. Inspect the reaction body mating surface for parallelism, nicks or
shaft neoprene seal for deterioration. Inspect gov- burrs. Check operation of manual valve and lever.
ernor valve for free operation. Check for dirt which
would cause sticking. Inspect rear pump gears for Inspect the front pump gears for worn or chipped
excessive clearance, worn or chipped teeth. In- gears. Check clearance between face of gears and
spect drive pinion gear and drive pinion ball. In- housing.
spect the input shaft seal rings for excessive wear
4. THROTTLE PRESSURE—It throttle pressures
or broken ends and reaction shaft bore for scoring.
do not correspond to throttle pressure chart on
Inspect all parts of the direct clutch assembly.
page 310, check line pressure and make the fol-
lowing adjustments and inspections.
OIL PRESSURE
Adjust throttle linkage. Inspect operation and
J. NO GOVERNOR PRESSURE — Governor condition of regulator valve and spring. Check
valve may be stuck in closed position, due to dirt. the valve body mating surface for parallelism,
To free valve, apply a short spurt of high air burrs or nicks. Check operation and condition of
pressure (90 lbs.) to governor pressure takeoff hole the throttle valve, cam and spring. Check throttle
and at the same time tap transmission extension pressure check valve ball for nicks or dirt. Inspect
housing with rubber mallet. Before applying air condition of kickdown rod and ball.
pressure cover filler tube with a rag. In addition,
drain two or three quarts of oil from transmission 5. DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE — Direct clutch
oil pan. After air is applied, reinstall governor pressure should be approximately 10 P.S.I, lower
pressure take off plug and run transmission in than line pressure with transmission upshifted and
Reverse a few seconds. Recheck governor pres- engine speed not lower than 650 r.p.m. If not, refer
sure. This corrective procedure may not be per- to page 352. Shift Quality, 4. Excessive Engine
manent. If valve becomes stuck again, remove Speed Increase on Upshifts.
governor for servicing. A pressure drop between line pressure and
direct clutch pressure as high as 25 p.s.i. may be
If pressures do not correspond to the chart on
due to broken or damaged seal rings in the direct
page 310 the governor may need service. However,
clutch circuit. These are: three interlocking type
other parts of the transmission can cause low
input shaft seal rings the direct clutch piston re-
pressure readings. Check the valve body mating
tainer seal ring, the neoprene direct clutch piston
surface for parallelism, burrs, or nicks. These
seal ring, the neoprene reaction shaft seal ring,
would result in oil pressure leakage. Check both
and two interlocking type reaction shaft seal rings.
output shaft support gaskets for evidence of in-
ternal leakage. Check operation of governor valve 6. LUBRICATION PRESSURE—Lubrication pres-
and inspect for foreign matter. Check the rear sure is checked at the upper left side of the output
pump gears for broken teeth, wear, and excessive shaft support. Remove ¼ inch pipe plug and use
clearance. Check the mating surfaces of the out- 100 p.s.i. oil pressure gauge C-3292 to check pres-
put shaft for parallelism, burrs, or nicks. sure. Lubrication pressure should be 35 to 50 p.s.i.
with transmission in Neutral and engine speed at
2. HIGH INITIAL GOVERNOR PRESSURE —
fast idle.
High governor pressure at low engine speeds is
due to the governor valve stuck in the open posi- If pressure readings are incorrect, check line
tion usually caused by a particle of dirt. Use air pressure and inspect torque converter control
MyMopar.com
valve. Low pressures may be due to internal oil oil pressure to partially engage the direct clutch.
leakage at the following points: drive sleeve seal A slight surge which is not continuous is normal.
ring, regulator valve body mating surface, reac-
tion shaft seal ring, output shaft support gaskets, 3. CAR MOVES BACKWARD IN NEUTRAL—
input shaft seal rings, and reaction shaft bore. Readjust gearshift linkage and inspect manual
Low oil pressure may also be caused by plugged valve and valve lever for proper engagement.
lubrication holes. Adjust reverse band. Inspect the reverse piston
assembly and reverse band, levers, strut, and
shaft. Check for binding, dirt, excessive wear.
IMPROPER RESPONSE TO GEARSHIFT
SELECTOR LEVER POSITIONS
MISCELLANEOUS DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
1. MOVES FORWARD IN NEUTRAL — Adjust
gearshift linkage. Adjust kickdown band. Inspect J. STARTER WILL NOT ENERGIZE — Adjust
manual valve lever assembly. Check valve body gearshift linkage. Test neutral starter switch. In-
mating surface for parallelism, nicks, dirt, burrs spect manual valve lever for proper engagement.
which would cause oil leakage. Check operation 2. HARD SHIFTING INTO NEUTRAL — Check
of manual valve. Inspect all parts of kickdown operation of neutral starter switch and inspect
piston. Check regulator body mating surface for manual valve lever.
parallelism, nicks, or burrs which would result in
oil leakage. Check clutch discs and plates for 3. HARD SHIFTING INTO REVERSE—Check op-
warpage which would cause dragging. Inspect eration of backup light switch and manual valve
clutch ball check. lever.
2. CAR MOVES FORWARD IN NEUTRAL AT 4. OIL FOAMS FROM FILLER TUBE — Check
HIGH ENGINE SPEED—Clutch check valve ball fluid level in transmission. Inspect transmission
bleed hole may be plugged causing centrifugal breather vent.
MyMopar.com
355
SECTION XVIII
BODY
Page
1. Door Trim and Hardware 355
2. Windows and Regulators 358
3. Windshield Glass 359
4. Rear Window Glass 362
5. Rear Quarter Window Glass 363
6. Sliding and Stationary Glass (Suburban) 364
7. Body Mounting Bolts 364
8. Fender Alignment 364
9. Hood Alignment 367
10. Door Alignment 370
11. Rear Deck Lid 373
12. Headlining 375
13. Power Operated Windows 379
14. Power Operated Front Seat 381
15. Convertible Top Mechanism 384
16. Convertible Top Adjustments 385
17. Body Sealing Procedures 388
18. Body Refinishing Materials 393
1. DOOR TRIM AND HARDWARE Turn window regulator handle down so that re-
INSIDE DOOR AND WINDOW tainer clip is to the left. Place tool between washer
REGULATOR HANDLES and handle, as shown in Figure 2. Push tool from
The door and window regulator handles are left to right and at the same time pull outward on
attached with a spring type clip and can be re- handle. Procedure is the same for removing inside
moved with a special tool. Figure 1 gives the
dimensions of the tool. door handles. When installing the handle make
sure concave side of washer is out.
ROUND ALL EDGES
‰' RADIUS EXCEPT
ON UP-TURNED LIP
BRAZING
GRIND
MATERIAL: ½ INCH STEEL

45x2225
45x2224
Figure 1 — Inside Door and Window Regulator
Removing Tool Figure 2 — Removing Control Handle Using Tool
MyMopar.com
SPACER
INSTALLED
55P1318
Figure 3 — Removing Door Handle Attaching Nuts Figure 5 — Lock Slide Spacer Installed
OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLES DOOR TRIM PANEL

REPLACEMENT—Remove the garnish moulding, Remove the window control regulator, door lock
loosen rear half of trim panel, use short extension remote control handle and arm rest. Remove the
and socket to remove attaching nuts and remove garnish moulding. Then, starting at the lower cor-
handle. See Figure 3. Apply lubriplate to plunger ner, work the panel away from the door. Keep tool
and actuator before installing. close to fasteners to prevent pulling the fasteners
PUSH BUTTON ADJUSTMENT— The adjusting out of the trim panel.
screw on the end of push button rod should be ad-
justed to lightly contact the release lever on the
FRONT DOOR GARNISH MOULDING
door lock when the button is in the released posi-
tion. See Figure 4. If the push button effort is over Remove the screws attaching the garnish mould-
eight pounds, adjust striker plate to release ing to the door. Unlock and open the vent wing.
weather seal load. Pull the rear of the garnish moulding away from
PULL TYPE HANDLE ADJUSTMENT — Spacers the door and remove the garnish moulding. See
can be used to eliminate excessive free travel be- Figure 6.
tween the door handle and the lock slide. Part No.
1655469 is used on the front doors and 1655470 on To install the garnish moulding open the vent
the rear doors. These spacers snap on to the lock wing, insert front of moulding in place, then slide
slide. See Figure 5. rear of moulding in place and install the screws.
Figure 4 — Adjusting Outside Door Handle Figure 6 — Removing or Installing

Push Button Garnish Moulding
MyMopar.com
BODY 357
PUSH TOWARD
FRONT OF CAR
TO LOCK
PULL TOWARD
REAR OF CAR
TO RELEASE
Figure 7 — Removing or Installing Upper Portion Figure 9 — Sliding Latch Plate to Remove or
of Glass Run Channel Install Lock Cylinder
GLASS RUN CHANNEL To remove the lock cylinder, insert the screw
Remove the door inside hardware and trim driver through the opening in the door and move
panel. Lower the glass and pull the glass run free the latch to the rear. Withdraw the lock cylinder.
at the top. See Figure 7. Pull the glass run channel
up about one inch until the upper and lower side To install lock cylinder, turn the key to the un-
clips are disengaged. Remove the glass run
channel from the door. locked position. With the latch in the rear position,
insert a thin piece of wire through the trim panel,
To install the glass run channel, first lower the the square hole in the door latch assembly and
glass. Slide the channel down and engage the
upper and lower side clips. See Figure 8. Push the out through the outside door panel. Using this wire,
channel down. Install the upper portion of the pilot the cylinder shaft into position and at the
channel. Install trim panel and hardware. same time, withdraw the wire. See Figure 10.
DOOR LOCK CYLINDER With the cylinder in position, insert the bent
Bend the end of a screw driver to an angle of 90 screw driver into the opening in the door and push
degrees. This tool can be used to slide the latch the latch plate forward. This will secure the cylin-
plate fore and aft. See Figure 9. der in place.
Figure 8 — Removing or Installing Glass Run Figure 10 — Pilot Wire Inserted For Installing
Channel Center Catch Lock Cylinder
MyMopar.com
FRONT DOOR LOCK AND When installing the channel on a new glass,
REMOTE CONTROL ASSEMBLY make certain it is correctly positioned on the glass
Remove the door inside hardware and trim before driving the channel in place.
panel. Remove outside door handle and door lock After installation of the glass is completed, test
cylinder. Remove the ventilator attaching screws the sliding action.
and remove the ventilator. Raise the door glass
and remove glass from regulator. Remove glass REAR DOOR VERTICAL SLIDING GLASS
run channel. (FOUR DOOR SEDAN AND FOUR DOOR
Remove the attaching screws holding the remote SUBURBAN)
control to the door. Remove the door lock attaching
Remove the door inside hardware and trim panel.
screws. Rotate the lock and remove the control
Roll the glass down and pull the glass run channel
arm from the lock. Remove the lock through the
out at the top. Roll the glass up and disconnect the
opening in the door.
regulator and remove the glass. If the glass is to
Before installing a new door lock apply a small be replaced, drive the lower channel and seal off
amount of Lubriplate to the lock mechanism. In- of the glass with a hardwood block and mallet.
stall the door lock through door opening. Rotate
the lock in order that the end of the remote control Position seal and channel on the glass and drive
arm can be connected to the lock rivet. Install the them into place. Connect the regulator arm to
door lock attaching screws and the two remote glass channel. Roll the window part way down.
control base screws. Install the door lock cylinder Install the glass run channel. Test the sliding action
and outside door handle. Reassemble door trim of the glass. If the glass binds adjust the division
and hardware. bar anchor screw. Install the trim panel and door
hardware.
2. DOOR WINDOW AND DOOR VENTILATOR ASSEMBLY
REGULATORS
Remove the door inside hardware and trim
FRONT DOOR VERTICAL
panel. Remove the center bar and adjusting screw.
SLIDING GLASS
Remove the ventilator screws. Figure 12. Lower
Remove the door control handle, window regu-
door glass and remove ventilator assembly.
lator handle, arm rest, garnish moulding and trim
panel. Remove the ventilator attaching screws and
FRONT DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR
remove the ventilator assembly. Raise the door
glass and remove glass from regulator as shown Remove the door inside hardware and trim panel.
in Figure 11. Remove the ventilator attaching screws and re-
If the glass is to be replaced, remove the door move the ventilator assembly. Raise the door glass
glass lower channel and seal from the glass by and remove glass from regulator.
driving them off with a block of hardwood and a Remove the regulator attaching screws, Figure
mallet. 13, and remove the regulator through the door
opening.
VENTILATOR
'. ATTACHING
•f SCREWS
55P1077
Figure 11 — Removing or Installing Vertical

Door Glass Figure 12 — Ventilator Attaching Screws
MyMopar.com
BODY 359
Roll the large glass to half raised position, re-

move the regulator clips and plastic washers.
Remove the rear channel inside mounting screw,
remove the two upper channel attaching screws
and lift the channel out of the door. Disengage the
WINDOW REGULATOR glass from the regulator and remove the glass.
ÂTTACHING SCREWS
Remove the regulator attaching screws and re-
move the regulator through the large opening in
the door.
After installation of the glass is completed, test
the operation of the glasses and check the adjust-
ments as shown in Figure 15. Install the trim panel
and inside door hardware.
55P1078
Figure 13 — Window Regulator Attaching Screws

3. WINDSHIELD GLASS
REMOVAL
After installing the regulator, turn the handle so
that arm is in the raised position. Engage the regu- Cover the instrument panel and cowl to prevent
lator arm in the door glass lower channel and damage to the finish before the windshield glass
lower the glass. Install the ventilator assembly. is removed. Remove windshield wiper arms. When
Install the trim panel and inside door hardware. weatherstrip is to be removed, it will be necessary
to remove garnish mouldings.
FOUR DOOR SPORT SEDAN
(REAR DOOR GLASS AND REGULATOR) REMOVAL OF TRIM MOULDING—Remove belt
moulding attaching screw located on "A" post,
To remove the window regulator it will be neces- each side as shown in Figure 16. Remove the belt
sary to remove pivot glass and sliding glass. The moulding attaching nuts. Figure 17, located under
glasses are held together at the top by a slide. See the instrument panel. Loosen the windshield wiper
Figure 14. pivots.
Remove the small screw at the top of the pivot
glass, and remove the slide. Remove the door
inside hardware and trim panel. Remove the two
pivot glass attaching screws shown on Figure 15,
and remove the pivot glass by lifting the glass up
and out of the door. WINDOW ADJUSTING PIVOT WINDOW
SCREWS ATTACHING AND
AD,iUSTING SCREWS
•A
CHANNEL ATTACHING
AND ADJUSTING SCREWS
WINDOW REGULATOR
ATTACHING AND
ADJUSTING SCREWS
5óPl65
Figure 14 —Pivot Window Slide Figure 15 — Rear Door Glass Adjusting

and Stop Screw and Attaching Screws
MyMopar.com
Figure 16 — Removing Belt Moulding Screw Figure 19 — Removing Upper Windshield

at "A" Post Trim Moulding
Slide the belt mouldings from under wiper pivots

and lift ofí. Then remove the side mouldings at the
"A" posts. See Figure 18. Carefully slide upper
trim moulding out of weatherstrip. See Figure 19.
Remove the windshield trim lower mouldings by
raising the outer ends as shown in Figure 20.
NOTE
On cars equipped with Visor Moulding it
will be necessary to remove the upper garnish
moulding to allow removal of visor attaching
nuts located on the roof panel. Loosening the
side garnish moulding pieces will provide
55P1317
enough clearance to remove upper garnish
moulding.
Figure 17 — Windshield Belt Moulding
Attaching Points
Insert tool C¯34I2 or a wedge shaped piece of
hardwood or fiber in locking seam in weatherstrip
and twist slightly to unlock. See Figure 21. Then
slide tool up and around to completely open the
locking lip.
Releasing the locking lip will allow the wind-
shield glass to be removed without disturbing the
weatherstrip. Removal of the windshield glass will
require two men—one inside of the car to push
out on the glass and one outside to hold the glass.
Starting at the lower corner, either side, push
the glass out of the weatherstrip. Work across the
bottom and up the sides until the glass can be
lifted from the weatherstrip. Use of gloves will pro-
tect hands against possible sharp edges.
Installation of Weatherstrip — Replacing the
Figure 18 — Removing Side Moulding Attaching weatherstrip on the body fence will be greatly
Screws at "A" Post aided if a mild solution of soap is used for a lubri-
MyMopar.com
BODY 361
55P1320
Figure 20 — Raising Outer Ends of Windshield Figure 21 —Using Tool C-3412 to Unlock
Moulding Windshield Weatherstrip
cant. Apply to fence groove using a small brush.

Use a mild soap for the solution as some strong
soaps may cause streaks in the paint finish. Place
the weatherstrip on the fence with firm pressure
to seat it in place but do not stretch it during
installation.
INSTALLATION
To install the windshield glass, first lubricate the

weatherstrip glass groove with the soap solution.
Insert the top of glass into weatherstrip channel
while holding the bottom of the glass against the
weatherstrip. Do not attempt to push glass into
corners at this time. See Figure 22. ,, 55P1322
Insert a wedge shaped piece of hardwood or

Figure 22 — Positioning Windshield Glass
fiber, approximately ½ inch wide between front
in Weatherstrip
lip of the weatherstrip and glass. Start at either
bottom corner and work to the center. Work the
glass into the weatherstrip groove. See Figure 23.
Do not attempt to push glass in too far at this time.
After glass has completely engaged groove in
weatherstrip, make sure it is seated properly by
tapping glass with palm of hand. Do not use a
rubber mallet when installing windshield glass.
Starting at the lower outside, slide tool over lock-
ing lip with enough pressure to force the lip into the
locked position, as shown in Figure 24. Always
work across the bottom, up the sides and over the
top of weatherstrip.
To install windshield upper trim moulding, insert
a ¼ inch diameter cord in the groove in weather- 55P133*
strip. Start at either end and insert the moulding
into the groove. Slowly pull out the cord while Figure 23 — Working Windshield Glass into
tapping the moulding into place. Weatherstrip
MyMopar.com
Install lower trim mouldings by sliding mould-

ings in the groove to proper position on weather-
strip. The side mouldings are attached with three
screws at "A" posts. Moulding clips are installed
at the center joints. Place belt mouldings in posi-
tion. Retighten wiper pivots, install belt moulding
nuts and replace wiper arms.
4. REAR WINDOW GLASS

REMOVAL
Cover the rear quarter panels and rear window

areas. Remove belt trim moulding retaining nuts
which are located in the luggage compartment.
Figure 24 — Locking Windshield Glass in See Figure 25.
Weatherstrip Remove the belt trim side moulding screws
located on rear pillar posts and remove belt trim
side mouldings. Remove joint cover and pry up
one end of trim moulding and pull moulding out
'
ATTACHING NUTS LOCATED
IN LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT
of weatherstrip. Use care not to damage mouldings.
Use tool C-3412 or a fiber wedge to unlock weath-
erstrip, then slide tool up completely opening the
locking lip as shown in Figure 26.
Releasing the locking lip will allow the rear
window glass to be removed without disturbing
the weatherstrip. Remove the glass by pushing on
the glass from the inside. Use of gloves will pro-
tect hands against possible sharp edges.
Use a mild soap solution to install the weather-
strip on the body fence. Apply the solution to fence
groove using a small brush. Use a mild soap for
the solution as some strong soaps may cause
Figure 25 — Rear Window Belt Moulding
streaks in the paint finish. Place the weatherstrip
Attaching Points
on the fence with firm pressure to seat it in the
proper place but do not stretch it during instal-
lation.
INSTALLATION
To install the rear window glass, first lubricate

the glass groove with the soap solution. Insert the
top of glass into the weatherstrip channel while
supporting the bottom of the glass. See Figure 27.
Using a wedge shaped piece of hardwood or
fiber, approximately ½ inch wide, insert tool be-
tween weatherstrip and glass. Start at either bot-
tom corner and work to the center. Work the glass
into the weatherstrip. See Figure 28. Do not attempt
to push glass in too far at this time, after glass has
55P1206 completely engaged groove in weatherstrip, make
sure it is seated properly by tapping glass with
Figure 26 — Using Tool C-3412 to Unlock palm of hand. Do not use a rubber mallet when
Rear Window Weatherstrip installing rear window glass.
MyMopar.com
BODY 363
Starting at the lower outside edge, slide tool over

locking lip with enough pressure to force the lip
into the locked position, as shown in Figure 29.
Always work across the bottom, up the sides and
over the top of the weatherstrip.
Lubricate the upper groove in weatherstrip with
the soap solution and install upper trim moulding.
Slide the lower trim mouldings in the groove to
proper position in weatherstrip. Install belt mould-
ings and joint covers and tighten the belt moulding
attaching nuts.
5. REAR QUARTER W I N D O W GLASS

Figure 27 — Positioning Rear Window in (SPORT COUPE AND CONVERTIBLE)
Weatherstrip
fîemoval — Remove the rear seat cushion from
the car. Then remove the garnish moulding, regu-
lator handle and trim panel. Lower the window
and remove the window pivot set screw. Carefully
raise the regulator and glass to approximately a
45° angle. Loosen locking screw then remove pivot
pin. See Figure 30. Disengage window glass chan-
nel from regulator arm and remove glass.
Installation — To install, engage regulator arm
in window glass channel. Install pivot, lower win-
dow and install set screw. Replace trim panel, garn-
ish moulding and regulator handle.
QUARTER WINDOW GLASS

55P1209
(CLUB SEDAN)
REMOVAL — Remove the rear seat cushion

Figure 28 — Working Rear Window Glass from the car. Then remove the garnish moulding,
into Weatherstrip arm rest, window regulator handle, ash receiver
and retainer, and trim panel. Lower the window
glass and pull the felt run channel out at the top.
55Pî2ìö
55PÌOÌ8
Figure 29 — Locking Rear Window Glass
in Weatherstrip Figure 30 — Rear Quarter Window Pivot Pin
MyMopar.com
Figure 31 — Removing Front Quarter Window Figure 32 — Tightening Body Bolts With
Glass (Suburban) Torque Wrench
Then pull the forward vertical section of the felt INSTALLATION — Apply a suitable sealing
run channel up and out of the body opening. Care- compound in the groove in the weatherstrip. Start-
fully raise the window glass and disconnect the ing at the corner work the weatherstrip over the
regulator arm from the quarter glass lower chan- stationary glass. Apply sealing compound under-
nel. Remove the glass from the opening. If the glass neath the outer lip of the weatherstrip. Working
is to be replaced drive the seal and channel off inside the car, place the assembly in the body
the glass with a hardwood block and mallet. opening. With the use of a fiber wedge, carefully
work the outer lip of the weatherstrip over the edge
INSTALLATION — Install the seal and lower of the body opening. Wipe off excess cement
channel on the quarter glass. Wind the regulator around the edge of the glass and weatherstrip.
arm up until the end protrudes above the window
opening and connect the arm to the lower channel. Tap the handle in place on the sliding glass.
Guide the glass in the rear portion of the glass run Install the glass in the glass run channel. Working
channel and carefully lower the quarter glass. inside the car, place the assembly in the body
Install the top and forward portion of the felt run opening. Install the cross-head screws in the
channel. Make certain that the upper and lower groove of the glass run channel. Make certain that
side clips are engaged when the front portion of the heads of the screws are below the felt to prevent
felt run channel is installed. Install the trim panel, contact with the edge of the sliding glass. Test the
arm rest, ash receiver, and retainer, regulator sliding action of the glass for smooth operation.
handle and garnish moulding. Then install the sliding window latch and glass
run joint cover.
6. SLIDING AND STATIONARY
7. BODY MOUNTING BOLTS
GLASS (SUBURBAN)
An important factor in the alignment of the hood,
REMOVAL — Remove the sliding glass latch fenders, doors and deck lid is the mounting of the
and glass run corner joint cover. Remove the upper body to the frame. Unequal torquing of the body
cross-head screws from the glass run channel. bolts will result in enough body distortion to cause
Carefully pull the glass and the upper portion of misalignment of the doors. Before any attempt is
the glass run channel out of the body opening and made to correct misalignment, the body mounting
remove the sliding glass. See Figure 31. should be checked for proper torque. Body mount-
ing bolts should be tightened to a torque of 15 foot-
If the stationary glass is to be replaced, remove pounds. See Figure 32.
the sliding glass run channel. Exert pressure in-
ward on the glass and carefully push the weather-
8. FENDER ALIGNMENT
strip and glass assembly from the body opening.
Work the weatherstrip off the glass and remove Before adjusting fender make sure door is prop-
old sealer from the weatherstrip groove. erly aligned. The rear edge of the fender must be
MyMopar.com
BODY 365
55P1Ì08
Figure 36 — Moving Top of Fender

Away From Cowl
Figure 33 — Top Rear Edge of Fender Lower
Than Front Door
Figure 37 — Jack With Extension Installed

In Position
Figure 34 — Installing U-Shaped Rubber Shim

even with contour of the front door. Following are
corrections for some of the common causes for
fender misalignment.
NOTE
The following tools will be very useful when
making fender adjustments.
Turnbuckle Tool — Fronf Fender — To make
this tool, use two pieces of ¾" steel rod, 17"
long and a 6" turnbuckle. Cut threads at one
end of each rod and bend the other ends of
the rods as shown in Figure 35. Then assemble
to the turnbuckle.
Front Fender Adjusting Tool—Bumper Jack
With Extension — To make this tool, braze a
piece of ¾" pipe, 72" long, to the end of the
bumper jack as shown in Figure 42.
Figure 35 — Body Adjusting Tools
MyMopar.com
TOP REAR EDGE OF FENDER LOWER THAN

FRONT DOOR—Figure 33—Loosen the fender top
bolt. Pry up the top rear edge of the fender with a
screw driver and install a U-shaped rubber shim
at the fender top bolt. See Figure 34. Remove the
screw driver and tighten fender bolt.
TOP REAR EDGE OF FENDER TOO CLOSE TO
COWL — Loosen fender top bolt. Pry the rear edge
of fender away from cowl with a screw driver as
shown in Figure 36. Retighten fender bolt.
BOTTOM REAR EDGE OF FENDER LOWER
5PHO4; THAN SILL PANEL — Install the bumper jack with
extension between the radiator support and hood
Figure 38 — Floor Jack in Position to hinge support bracket as shown in Figure 37. This
Raise Fender will maintain the fore and aft position of the fender.
Loosen the fender-to-cowl attaching bolts. Then
roll a floor jack into position under the bottom rear
edge of the fender. Protect the fender edge with a
cloth pad as shown in Figure 38. Raise the jack
until the bottom edge of the fender is in line with
the bottom edge of the sill panel. Retighten the
fender attaching bolts and remove jack.
J\
REAR EDGE OF FENDER EXTENDS TOO FAR
STRIKING DOOR AND FRONT EDGE OF FENDER
V SHORT OF HOOD — Install the bumper jack with
extension between the radiator support and hood
hinge as shown in Figure 39. Loosen the fender-
to-cowl attaching bolts. Then jack the fender for-
t55PÌ ward until correct alignment of the fender is ob-
tained, retighten the fender-to-cowl attaching bolts
Figure 39 — Rear Edge of Fender Extends
Too Far Striking Door and remove the jack.
GAP BETWEEN REAR EDGE OF FENDER AND
SILL PANEL —SPACING CORRECT AT UPPER
SECTION — Loosen the bottom fender to cowl at-
taching bolts. Place a 2 x 4 board between the tire
and fender as shown in Figure 40. Protect the edge
of the fender with a cloth pad. Pry the fender back
to close the gap. Then retighten the attaching bolts.
FENDER TOO FAR FORWARD AT UPPER
DOOR OPENING—Figure 41—Install the turn-
buckle tool in hood hinge support bracket and
over the radiator support as shown in Figure 42.
Loosen the fender-to-cowl attaching bolts. Turn the
turnbuckle to draw the fender rearward until
correct alignment is obtained. Then tighten the
Figure 40 — Closing Gap Between Fender fender-to-cowl attaching bolts and remove the
and Sill Panel turnbuckle.
MyMopar.com
BODY 367
9. HOOD ALIGNMENT
To align hood, start with alignment of the rear
hood edge at the cowl. Spacing should be close
and uniform all the way across the cowl. There
should be equal spacing between the sides of the
hood and fenders and the front of the hood should
be even with the front fenders. Before any adjust-
ment is made, scribe lines around the hood hinge
so that hinge movement can be checked.
REAR CORNER OF HOOD TOO HIGH AT

COWL—Figure 43—Loosen the two hood hinge-to-
bracket rear stud nuts. These can be reached
55P1132
underneath the instrument panel. Loosen the hood
hinge-to-bracket front stud nut just enough to
Figure 41 —Fender Too Far Forward at permit movement. Raise the hood up so that the
Upper Door Opening hinge pivots around the front stud and the rear of
the hinge drops down. Then retighten all the stud
nuts.
HOOD HIGH AT CENTER OF COWL—Figure 44

—Place the hood strainer adjusting hood tool in
position as shown in Figure 45. Then bend the hood
strainer bar down at the center. This will lower
the contour of the hood at the center. The contour
of the hood should match the contour of the cowl.
FRONT OF HOOD TOO CLOSE AT FENDER,

SPACING CORRECT AT COWL·-Figure 46—
Loosen the upper fender-to-radiator support bolt.
With the use of a heavy screwdriver, pry the fen-
der away from the radiator support as shown in
Figure 47. Then insert a metal shim between the
Figure 42 — Turnbuckle Tool Installed fender and the support to obtain the necessary
in Position clearance between the fender and hood. Retighten
the fender-to-radiator support bolt.
NOTE
The following tool will be very useful when

making hood adjustments.
Hood Strainer Adjusting Hook — To make

this tool, use a ¾" x l½" board, 3 feef long,
reinforced at one end with two 1/16" steel
plates, 12 inches long. Drill a hole through the
board and steel plates 10" from the end of the
board, and install a ¾" rod, 16 inches long.
This rod should then be bent in the shape of a
"IT and welded to a 3" angle iron, ¼" thick,
and l½" wide as shown in Figure 35. Care 55P1130
should be exercised during this operation so as
not to bring hood line too low. Figure 43 — Rear Corner of Hood Too
High At Cowl
MyMopar.com
</i
Figure 47 — Inserting Shim Between Fender

Figure 44 — Hood Too High At Center Of Cowl and Radiator Support
55P1115
Figure 48 — Rear Corner of Hood Too

Close to Cowl
Figure 45 — Using Hood Strainer Adjusting Tool
to Lower Center of Hood
REAR CORNER OF HOOD TOO CLOSE TO

COWL—Figure 48—Scribe a line around the hinge
at the hinge support bracket so that the hinge
movement can be checked. Loosen all the hinge-
to-bracket stud nuts and pull the hinge forward
until proper spacing between the hood and cowl
is obtained. See Figure 49. Then retighten the
hinge-to-bracket stud nuts.
REAR CORNER OF HOOD BINDS ON FENDER

—Figure 50—Loosen the hood flange-to-hinge
bolts and push the hood inward until the desired
clearance between the hood side and fender is
obtained. See Figure 51. Then retighten the
attaching bolts.
FRONT OF HOOD TOO HIGH TO LINE UP

Figure 46 — Front of Hood Too Close at WITH FRONT FENDER—Figure 52—Shorten the
Fender, Spacing Correct at Cowl hood striker as shown in Figure 53, to draw the
MyMopar.com
BODY 369
Hiü
Figure 49 — Moving Hinge Forward to Obtain Figure 52 — Front of Hood too High to Line Up
Clearance at Hood and Cowl With Front Fender Moulding
Figure 50 — Rear Corner of Hood

Binds on Fender Figure 53 — Adjusting Hood Striker
55PHO5
Figure 51 —Repositioning Hood to Obtain Figure 54 — Front of Hood Binds at Fender on One
Clearance at Fender Side, Excessive Clearance at Opposite Side
MyMopar.com
Figure 55 — Moving Fenders and Grille Assembly Figure 57 — Moving Top of Door Forward
to Equalize Spacing Between Fenders and Hood
front door is correctly positioned, align the rear

front of the hood down so that it will line up with door with the rear edge of the center-pillar post.
the fender mouldings. Before loosening the door hinge screws, scribe a
FRONT OF HOOD BINDS AT FENDER ON ONE
line around the hinge so that the amount of move-
SIDE, EXCESSIVE CLEARANCE AT OPPOSITE
ment can be checked.
SIDE—Figure 54—Loosen the radiator support-to-
GAP BETWEEN REAR EDGE OF DOOR AND
frame mounting bolts. These can be reached
LEADING EDGE OF DOOR—Figure 56—Remove
underneath the car. Then, using a suitable pry
the inside door hardware and trim panel. Loosen
bar, move the fenders and grille assembly to one
the upper hinge screws. Figure 57. Place a floor
side to equalize the spacing between the hood
jack under the rear corner of the door. Protect the
and fenders. See Figure 55. Retighten the mount-
ing bolts. door edge with a cloth pad. Carefully raise the
jack to move the top of the door forward. Then
tighten the upper hinge screws and remove the
10. DOOR ALIGNMENT jack. Loosen the lower hinge screws and pull
Door spacing and adjustment should always down on the upper rear corner of the door in order
start at the parting line between the forward edge to move the lower half of the door forward. See
of the front door flange and the line formed by Figure 58. Tighten the hinge screws and install
the rear edge of the fender and cowl. After the the trim panel and door hardware.
Figure 56 — Gap Between Rear Edge of Fender

and Leading Edge of Door Figure 58 — Moving Bottom of Door Forward
MyMopar.com
BODY 371
55P1121
Figure 59 — Front Edge of Upper Half of Door Figure 61 — Lower Half of Door in
Tight at Hinge Pillar, Gap at Bottom of Front Edge Too Close to Body
FRONT EDGE OF UPPER HALF OF DOOR strip should offer a reasonable amount of resist-
TIGHT AT HINGE PILLAR—GAP AT BOTTOM OF ance when the tag is pulled out to insure a good
FRONT EDGE-—Figure 59—Remove the inside seal.
door hardware and trim panel. Loosen the upper
hinge screws and pull down on the upper rear LOWER HALF OF DOOR IN TOO CLOSE TO
corner of the door to move the upper half of the BODY—UPPER HALF OF DOOR OUT TOO FAR
door away from the pillar. See Figure 60. Then FROM BODY—Figures 61 and 62—Loosen the
re-tighten the hinge screws. Loosen the lower upper hinge screws at the pillar as shown in Fig-
hinge screws and pull down on the upper rear ure 63. Roll a floor jack under the rear bottom cor-
corner of the door to move the lower half of the ner of the door. Protect the door edge with a cloth
door in toward the hinge pillar. Tighten the lower pad. Raise the jack to move the upper half of the
hinge screws and install the trim panel and inside door in towards the pillar and retighten the hinge
door hardware. screws.
With the door in the new position it will be neces- Loosen the lower hinge screws at the pillar and
sary to readjust the striker plate. After the adjust- raise the jack to move the lower half of the door
ment is made, test the weatherstrip compression by out from the body. Then retighten the lower hinge
closing the door on a shipping tag. The weather- screws and remove the jack.
55P1Ì16
Figure 60 — Moving Upper Half of Door Figure 62 — Upper Half of Door Out
Away from Pillar Too Far From Body
MyMopar.com
Figure 63 — Moving Upper Half of Door Figure 65 — Moving Upper Half of Door
in Toward Pillar Away from Body
Figure 6 4 — Leading Edge of Upper Half of Figure 66 — Rear Door Too Low in Opening
Door Flange Rubs on Pillar
a floor jack under the bottom rear corner of the

LEADING EDGE OF UPPER HALF OF DOOR door. Protect the door edge with a cloth pad. Raise
FLANGE RUBS ON PILLAR WHEN CLOSING— the jack to move the bottom of the door outward
Figure 64—Loosen the upper hinge screws at the from the body. Then retighten the hinge screws
pillar and move the door outward, away from the and remove the jack. Loosen the striker plate and
body. See Figure 65. Then retighten the hinge adjust it to the new door position.
screws.
REAR DOOR BINDS AT LOWER REAR CORNER
REAR DOOR TOO LOW IN OPENING—Figure —Figure 69—Remove the pillar trim. Place a floor
66—Place a floor jack under the center of the door. jack under the bottom rear corner of the door.
Protect the bottom edge of the door with a cloth Loosen the upper pillar hinge screws and raise
pad. Loosen the upper and lower hinge screws at the jack to move the door forward. Retighten the
the door just enough to permit movement of the hinge screws, install pillar trim and remove the
door as shown in Figure 67. Raise the jack care- jack.
fully to move the door upward until it is properly-
centered in the opening. Then retighten the hinge If this procedure does not entirely correct the
screws and remove jack. condition it will be necessary to loosen the number
four body bolts and remove the shim from be-
LEADING EDGE OF LOWER HALF OF REAR tween the body and frame. This will give addi-
DOOR IN TOO CLOSE TO BODY—Figure 68— tional clearance at the lower rear corner of the
Loosen the lower hinge screws at the door. Place door. Retighten the body bolts to 15 ft. lbs. torque.
MyMopar.com
BODY 373
Figure 67 — Moving Door Up Figure 69 — Rear Door Binds at Lower

Rear Corner
45x2228
WELD
MATERIAL: STEEL
Figure 68 — Leading Edge of Lower Half of
Rear Door in Too Close to Body Figure 7 0 — Torsion Bar Tool Dimensions
11. REAR DECK LID REMOVAL A N D INSTALLATION
The torsion bar hinge mechanism applies lifting Support rear deck lid with a prop, then disen-
force to the hinge arms. Moving the torsion bar to gage torsion bars from the adjusting slot in
the rear holes increases the force applied and bracket as shown in Figure 71.
provides greater assistance in lifting of deck lid.
A tool to perform this operation can be made as
shown in Figure 70.
CAUTION
The torsion bar tension can be adjusted by plac-
ing the end of the bar in one of the three slots in Use extreme care when removing torsion
the mounting bracket. The upward travel of the bars. Due to the tension required to make the
deck lid is limited by a stop on the bracket which bars effective, the bars will unwind.
contacts the hinge arms.
The torsion bar ends are lubricated at the fac-
tory and should not require lubrication; however, Remove bars from center support bracket, slide
if the torsion bar is replaced or should squeak, the bar in opposite direction to disengage cam roller
inside roller at the torsion bar end should be from hinge. Remove bars by unwinding from sup-
coated with Lubriplate. port bracket.
MyMopar.com
[SCREW DRIVER, 55P1137
Figure 71 —Removing or Installing Torsion Bars Figure 74 — Upper Corner of Deck Lid Too Low
To install, engage cam roller on the back sur-

face of the hinge. Install torsion bars in center
support bracket, wind bars and install bars in
adjusting slots. Make sure bars engage adjusting
slots by tapping with a hammer. It will be neces-
sary to have someone hold the cam roller washer
in place using a short length of wood.
DECK LID ALIGNMENT
All deck lid adjustments should be started at

the parting line between the deck lid opening
upper panel and the upper flange of the deck lid.
Spacing should be close and uniform at this line.
Figure 72 — Upper Corner of Deck Lid
The contour of the deck lid should conform with
Binding at Deck Lid Opening
the contour of the deck lid opening upper panel.
Following are some common causes of deck lid
misalignment.
UPPER CORNER OF DECK LID BINDING AT

UPPER PANEL—Figure 72—Loosen the hinge-to-
deck lid attaching screws as shown in Figure 73.
Shift the deck lid toward the rear to obtain the
necessary clearance.
UPPER CORNER OF DECK LID TOO LOW—
Figure 74—Loosen the deck lid hinge-to-bracket
mounting bolts. Pull the deck lid up until correct
height is obtained and retighten bolts as shown
in Figure 75.
CONTOUR OF DECK LID TOO HIGH—Figure

76—Connect the deck lid adjusting tool at the
deck lid strainer and at the quarter panel under
the drain ledge. See Figure 77. Lift the corner of
Figure 73 — Loosen Deck Lid-to-H¡nge the deck lid to correct the contour. Check the
Attaching Screws weatherstrip seal with a shipping tag.
MyMopar.com
BODY 375
56P175
Figure 78 — Gap Between Deck Lid and

Figure 75 — Raising Deck Lid Hinge
Rear of Quarter Panel
GAP BETWEEN DECK LID AND REAR OF QUAR-

TER PANEL—Figure 78—It will be necessary to
v adjust the deck lid to the opening. It may be
necessary to remove the deck lid and elongate the
holes at the deck lid to hinge attaching holes.
If rear quarter panel has been damaged, it may
be necessary to shim body bolts at quarter panel.
12. HEADLINING
REMOVAL
It will be necessary to remove the rear window

on all models except the Suburbans. Remove the
dome light assembly and rear seat cushion assem-
bly as well as the sun visors and upper windshield
F¡gure 76 — Contour of Deck Lid Too High garnish moulding.
SPORT COUPE MODELS—Remove the quarter
glass garnish moulding, front pillar and roof side
rail weatherstrip.
TWO DOOR MODELS—Remove quarter win-
dow garnish mouldings.
After rear glass has been removed pull rear
window weatherstrip out at the top and down the
sides of the rear window opening as shown in
Figure 79.
Pull the headlining from under the rear package
shelf and away from the rear quarter panel and
wheel housing. With a screwdriver pry the head-
lining retainer strip away from the roof rail above
the doors. Insert a piece of stiff wire, about eight
inches long, between the retainer strip and head-
lining to lift the headlining off the retaining barbs
as shown in Figure 80. Pull the headlining off the
Figure 77 — Deck Lid Adjusting Tool Installed barbs at the windshield header bar.
MyMopar.com
55P1325,
VJ55P1020
Figure 79 — Removing Headlining at Figure 81 — M a r k Clip Hole When Removing
Rear Window Opening Bow from Roof Rail
Figure 80 — Using Stiff Wire to Remove Figure 82 — Bending Locking Tab Up To

Headlining From Retainer Remove Clip From Bow End
The rear headlining bow on all models is held If a new headlining is to be installed, the clips
in position at the center by a retaining clip. Bend must be removed from the bow ends as shown in
the clip to free the bow, spring the bow and re- Figure 82, to permit removal of the bow from the
move the end from the clip hole in the roof rail. Two listing. Bend the clip locking tab up and remove
holes are provided in the roof rails. As the bows the clip.
are removed, mark the clip hole that is used as Starting at the rear of the headlining, remove
shown in Figure 81. each bow from the old listing and install it in
After the headlining and bows are removed from position in the new headlining. This procedure
assures correct installation of the bows. Before
the carf inspect the roof pad silencer, if loose, installing the bows in the new headlining, trim
cement as necessary. the excess listing even with the edges of the head-
SPORT COUPE MODELS—Remove the body lining as shown in Figure 83.
front pillar and roof side rail weatherstrip and Notch the headlining at the front and rear ends
the drive nails at the ends of the headlining seams. to indicate the center of the material by making
Use a dull putty knife to separate the headlining small V-shaped cuts as shown in Figure 84. Use
from the roof rail and carefully remove the mate- these marks as guides to properly center the
rial from the cemented surface. headlining.
MyMopar.com
BODY 377
55P1207
Figure 83 — Trimming Excess Listing Even Figure 85 — Cutting Hole In Listing For
With Edges of Headlining Support Clip
INSTALLATION Cut holes in the headlining for the visor retain-

ing screws and pivot. Install visors before tucking
When installing the headlining, begin at the
in the corners of the headlining at the top of the
rear of the car. Install the rear bow in the holes
windshield posts to prevent tearing ihe headlining
previously marked in the roof rail. Cut a small
when tightening the screws. Install garnish
hole in the middle of the listing for the rear head-
mouldings.
lining-bow-support-clip as shown in Figure 85.
This will prevent the headlining from wrinkling. In most cases the listing is longer than neces-
Bend the retainer clip around the rear bow. sary. Cut the material at the ends to prevent
Install the remaining bows, making sure to wrinkling at the seams when it is tucked or
stretch the headlining evenly so that approxi- cemented in place. Cut the listing from the end
mately the same amount of material hangs down up to the clip.
both sides.
Apply cement to the windshield header bar. CAUTION
Wait until it becomes tacky. Then stretch the head-
lining forward and over the cemented area, and Use care to prevent cutting the listing too
onto the barbs on the windshield header. Make far up the bow and ruining the fit of the head-
sure the first seam of the headlining is straight. lining.
After listings are cut, start at the front and trim

the headlining so that only ½ to 1 inch of material
hangs down below the door windcord on all
models except the Sport Coupe. See Figure 86.
Use a dull putty knife to tuck the first and second
seam between the roof side rail and retainer as
shown in Figure 87. Tuck the remaining material
in place.
When one man is performing the installation,
V-SHAPED CUT
alternate from one side to the other, completing
one section at a time; make certain the seams are
straight. As the work progresses, the material
should be kept free of wrinkles until all of the
Figure 84 — Marking Center of Each End headlining is tucked in place between the roof rail
With Small V¯Shaped Cuts and the retainer.
MyMopar.com
TWO-DOOR MODELS — (EXCEPT SPORT

COUPES)—Apply headlining cement to the under-
side of the roof rails from the door openings to the
rear of the quarter window as shown in Figure 88.
When the cement is tacky, press the material in
place on the cemented surface and tuck it in
between the quarter window glass run channel
and the roof rail.
SPORT COUPE MODELS — Apply the cement
to the outside surface of the roof rail. Press the
headlining in place after the cement has become
tacky. Be sure that the material is free of wrinkles.
To prevent the headlining from pulling loose, use
drive nails to fasten the material at the seams
to the outside surface of the rail as shown in
Figure 86 — Trimming Excess Material
Figure 89.
at W¡ndcord
The procedure for installing the headlining at
the rear window is basically the same on all
models except the Suburban. Apply a light coat of
cement to the surface of the opening. Use cement
sparingly as shown in Figure 90.
While the cement is allowed to become tacky
apply cement at the quarter panel where the
material is to be cemented.
Measure the amount of material required
around the rear opening and trim any excess. Cut
a series of short slits in the headlining to prevent
wrinkling when the material is pressed into place.
Starting at the center, press the headlining onto
the cemented surface as shown in Figure 91.
55PÌO2ó Install the material across the top and to a point
about six inches from the lower corners of the
Figure 87 — Tucking Headlining Between
windows. Press the material in place at the quarter
Retainer and Roof Rail
panel where it is to be cemented.
DRIVE NAILS
AT SEAMS
55P1027
55PÌO281
Figure 88 — Cementing Material to Underside Figure 89 — Using Drive Nail to Secure Material
of Side Rails at Quarter Windows to Side Rails on Sport Coupe
MyMopar.com
BODY 379
Install the remaining portion of the headlining

at the rear window. Work out any wrinkles which
may form, and tuck in the remaining portion at
the forward edge of the quarter panel.
Locate the center of the dome lamp bracket. Cut
a small hole in the headlining at this point and pull
wires through opening. Install wires in housing,
apply a small amount of cement to the inner edge
of dome light bracket and install dome light.
Install the rear window, rear seats and coat
hanger hooks.
13. POWER OPERATED WINDOWS
Figure 90 — Applying Cement to Rear WINDOW LIFT SWITCHES

Window Opening The chrome bezel of each switch is held in place
by spring type retainers. To release the bezel,
depress springs through notches on the side of
the switch with a pointed tool as shown in Fig-
ure 92.
Work with care when connecting the wire termi-
nals to the switch; make sure they are positioned
away from each other. This precaution will avoid
incorrect operation of windows.
WINDOW LIFT MOTOR
REMOVAL—Remove the door handle, arm rest

and trim panel. Disconnect the wires from motor.
Remove the attaching nuts that hold the motor to
the gear box, pull motor down and away from
55P1323 drive shaft.
Figure 91 —Pressing Material to

INSTALLATION—Place motor in position and
Cemented Surface
push motor up onto shaft and install attaching
nuts. Connect wires to the motor, check motor for
proper operation before installing trim panel.
WINDOW LIFT REGULATOR
REMOVAL—Lower the window, disconnect bat-

tery, remove trim panel and arm rest. Remove
window control switch. Disconnect the wires at
terminal block, remove clips from window lift
guide pins. Remove leather washer from behind
the clips and slip the window pivot pins out of the
glass channel. Raise window manually and prop
glass. Turn the gear box drive coupling manually
until the window lift is in the half raised position.
Remove the four regulator attaching screws
shown in Figure 94. Work the window lift mech-
anism towards the rear of the door until it releases
from the pivot guide track, remove the motor and
Figure 92 — Removing Window Lift Switch regulator assembly.
MyMopar.com
RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT RIGHT REAR CO
DOOR SWITCH DOOR MOTOR QUARTER SWITCH
s
UPS
SWITCH FEED
DOWN© = ¯ RIGHT REAR

QUARTER MOTOR
NO. 1 CIRCUIT
BREAKER
TO BATTERY SOLENOID
NO. 2 CIRCUIT
¯<
BREAKER
to
m
1.
KEY
LEFT FRONT DOOR UP
LEFT FRONT DOOR MASTER SWITCH
LEFT REAR
QUARTER SWITCH
š
2. RIGHT FRONT DOOR UP
3. LEFT REAR QUARTER UP
4. RIGHT REAR QUARTER UP
5. LEFT FRONT DOOR D O W N
6. RIGHT FRONT DOOR D O W N
LEFT REAR
7. LEFT REAR QUARTER D O W N
QUARTER MOTOR
8. RIGHT REAR QUARTER D O W N
9. SWITCH FEED
10. SWITCH GROUND
NOTE . . . Terminals 3, 4, 7 and 8 have
colored sleeves on wires at master
switch.
D GREEN—To left relay UP

E ORANGE—To right relay UP
S BROWN—To left relay D O W N
• BLUE—To right relay D O W N
55P1089
Figure 93 — Electric Window Diagram—

Sport Coupe and Convertible 1955 Models
MyMopar.com
BODY 381
the same manner as checking out any electrical

system with a test lamp or voltmeter and ammeter.
14. POWER OPERATED FRONT SEAT

The power operated seat is driven by an electric
\ REGULATOR
> ATTACHING motor which is located under the front seat on the
SCREWS left side as shown in Figure 95. The motor operates
a worm shaft and sleeve through a worm head.
The control switch assembly is located on the
left side of the front seat and wired through a 30
amp. circuit breaker located adjacent to the win-
dow lift circuit breakers on the left cowl panel.
A wire from the starter solenoid supplies the
Figure 94 — Window Regulator Attaching Screws power to the circuit breaker. If a car is equipped
with electric windows then the power is supplied
by a brass jumper paralleled with the window
CAUTION lift circuit breakers.
Should the window lift mechanism be re- The wire harness is installed to the left and
moved for replacement or inspection of the under the seat track on floor pan to prevent cut-
gear box, remove the counter balance spring ting of wires.
before removing. Use a large pair of pliers to
remove the counter balance spring. REMOVAL—To remove power unit and shaft
disconnect battery and remove the front seat cush-
ion. Disconnect seat adjuster control wires to relay.
INSTALLATION—Place the motor and regulator Remove power unit retaining clips. See Figure
assembly through opening in door. Insert window 95. Remove the bar clevis pins. Disconnect relay
lift pivot into guide track. Install the four regulator lead wires to motor and remove the power unit
attaching screws finger tight. Remove window assembly.
prop, lower glass and insert control arms into INSTALLATION—Connect relay lead wires to
glass channel, with leather washers on guide pin motor, install clevis pins and clips. Connect ad-
and secure with clip. Control arms can be inserted juster control wires to relay making sure to prop-
into glass channel only when the glass is in the erly position wires to prevent damage or possible
lowered position. wear. Install the front cushion and connect battery.
CAUTION
Make sure the window lift pivot is in guide
track. If the pivot is not in place, extensive
damage can result.
Install trim panel, connect wires and install

switch and door handle.
WINDOW LIFT WIRING

The windows equipped with electric lifts can
be operated from a master switch located on left
front door or through the individual switches
located on each door. Wiring diagrams are shown
in Figures 93, 96 and 97. Checking out the system Figure 95 — Power Operated Front Seat
for shorts or open circuits should be carried out in Adjuster Motor
MyMopar.com
RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT RIGHT REAR DOOR RIGHT REAR DOOR
DOOR SWITCH I DOOR MOTOR SWITCH OR QUARTER ,—•MOTOR CO
BLACK & RED- - ^ · UP
P·DOWN
NO. 1 CIRCUIT
BREAKER
I TO BATTERY SOLENOID
NO. 2 CIRCUIT
BREAKER
¡i
m
KEY
1. LEFT FRONT DOOR UP
3. LEFT REAR DOOR OR
QUARTER UP
4. RIGHT REAR DOOR OR c
QUARTER UP >
5. LEFT FRONT DOOR D O W N
6. RIGHT FRONT DOOR D O W N
QUARTER DOWN LEFT REAR DOOR
8. RIGHT REAR DOOR OR SWITCH OR QUARTER
QUARTER DOWN
9. LEFT DOOR SWITCH FEED
10. REAR DOORS OR QUARTER
SWITCH TO CIRCUIT BREAKER
55PÌ090
Figure 96 — Electric Window Wiring Diagram—

Club Sedan and Four Door Sedan 1955 Models
MyMopar.com
RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT RIGHT REAR DOOR RIGHT REAR DOOR
DOOR SWITCH DOOR MOTOR SWITCH OR QUARTER I — I MOTOR
TO BATTERY SOLENOID
BLACK & RED
5
S
KEY
1. LEFT FRONT DOOR UP
QUARTER UP
4. RIGHT REAR DOOR OR
QUARTER UP
5. LEFT FRONT DOOR DOWN
6. RIGHT FRONT DOOR DOWN LEFT REAR DOOR
7. LEFT REAR DOOR OR SWITCH OR QUARTER
QUARTER DOWN
8. RIGHT REAR DOOR OR
QUARTER DOWN
9. SWITCH FEED
56P126
Figure 97 — Electric Window Wiring Diagram— CO
1956 All Models 00
CO
MyMopar.com
25 AMP. CIRCUIT BREAKER 1956 56P163

15. CONVERTIBLE COUPE (TOP 50 AMP. CIRCUIT BREAKER 1955
OPERATING MECHANISM)
The electric-hydraulic top folding mechanism
(Figure 100) consists of two cylinders, a piping
o BLACK •
TOP LIFT SWITCH
system, an electric motor, a pump and reservoir TOP LIFT M O T O R
assembly and a double-throw rotary switch. The

wiring and motor are protected by a separate cir- BLACK 1955
cuit breaker. See Figure 98. The electric motor is RED 1956
the reversible type. The pump is a two-direction,

reversing motor type and is connected with the RED
YELLOW
cylinders by flexible lines. A valve and port assem- STARTER
f] ‡ " \ TERMINAL
bly in the reservoir directs the flow of the fluid in SOLENOID `¯ï ‰* BLOCK
the system.
The motor, pump and reservoir assembly can be
replaced as a unit or an electric motor can be Figure 98 — Wiring Diagram Electric
replaced separately. The cylinders are sealed Hydraulic Top
units which must be replaced as assemblies.
FLUID LEVEL—Insufficient fluid, or air in the When the top is scrubbed clean, wipe off the excess
system, may cause the top to raise slowly or the suds with a clean wet cloth. Allow the top to dry
pump and motor may be noisy during the opera- and apply the sealer evenly with a brush.
tion. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If low,
check for a leak due to a broken line or loose TOP AND REAR WINDOW PANEL
connection. If either condition exists, replace the
line or tighten the connection. Then fill reservoir CARE OF THE TOP FABRIC —The top fabric
until fluid runs out of filler hole. Use only Heavy should be brushed occasionally to remove dust
Duty Brake Fluid. and road dirt. An art gum eraser will help in the
removal of certain spots and stains. The top mate-
rial can be washed with a sponge or brush. Use
IMPORTANT lukewarm water and mild soap suds.
After filling the reservoir, raise and lower
the top several times to force out air that may
CAUTION
be trapped in the system. Always check the
fluid level when top is lowered. Before top is lowered, make sure the top
fabric is completely dry after cleaning. Damp-
ness may cause formation of mildew and dam-
If difficulty is encountered in raising or lowering age the closely-folded fabric.
the top with the motor running, and sufficient fluid
in the reservoir, and the pivot points are not bind-
ing, the cause is probably due to improper linkage CARE OF REAR WINDOW PANEL —To clean
alignment and adjustment. See Figure 99. the panel, flush it with plenty of cool water to rinse
off abrasive dust. "Dry washing" with a wet or dry
CARE OF TOP cloth is not recommended. Lather surface of panel
with mild soap suds, using the palm of hand.
WATER-PROOFING THE TOP—Worn fabric top Thoroughly rinse off all traces of soap and allow
material can be waterproofed with the use of wind- panel to air dry.
shield Rubber Sealer.
Before applying the sealer, clean the top
CAUTION
thoroughly. Remove any spots with an art-gum
eraser and brush off any dust and road dirt with a This panel is made of flexible vinyl plastic.
whisk broom. Use a sponge or brush, and wash It should never be cleaned with commercial
the top thoroughly with lukewarm water and mild solvents such as gasoline, naphtha, or carbon
soap. Scrub the top with soap suds, starting in the tetrachloride.
center, and gradually work toward the edges.
MyMopar.com
BODY 385
glasses for proper fit to the top side rail seals and
vertical seals. Adjustments for proper sealing of
the quarter glass to the roof rail weatherstrip is
PUMP RESERVOIR made at the power link adjustment bracket with
the top in the partially raised position. See (E) in
inset of Figure 100.
To decrease clearance between the quarter glass
and roof rail weatherstrip, move the bracket for-
ward. The adjustment should be approximately
the same on both sides.
ROOF SIDE RAIL ALIGNMENT—PROP LINK
ADJUSTMENT—The adjustment for proper sealing
of the roof side rail seals above the door glass and
of the header panel to the windshield locking
plunger, cam, and stops is mainly controlled by
Figure 99 — Electric Hydraulic Top
the vertical prop links which are fastened in the
Folding Mechanism
quarter panel pockets. See (E) in inset of Figure 100.
Two additional adjustments also affect the fold-
ing top side rail seals at the top of the door glass.
16. CONVERTIBLE TOP ADJUSTMENTS They are the front side rail hinge stop screws and
BODY ALIGNMENT—An important factor in the the rear side rail hinge stop screws. See insets (C)
proper alignment of the doors and convertible top and (D) of Figure 100.
is the attachment of the body to the frame of the If the front side rail hinge joints above the door
car. Uneven tightening of body bolts, the use of glass are jackknifed open when the top is in the
too many or not enough shims, or overtightening raised position, correct leveling of the side rails
of body bolts may result in distortion of the body can be effected by lowering the prop link bracket.
sill and cause misalignment of the doors and top However, when adjusting one vertical prop link,
fit at the header. the same or practically the same adjustment
Therefore, before any adjustments are per- should be made to the opposite vertical prop link.
formed to correct door or top misalignment, be This is necessary in order to maintain parallelism
sure that all body bolts are tightened to a torque between the header panel and windshield frame,
of 15 foot-pounds. In some cases it may be advisa- and in addition to maintain lateral alignment of
ble to loosen the body bolts and drive the car a the header panel stops with relation to the wind-
short distance to permit the body to settle evenly shield plunger. Before making this adjustment
on the frame. Then tighten the bolts to the specified loosen the top header at the windshield to remove
torque. If body shimming is necessary to obtain tension from the linkage.
proper door alignment, this should be done before If the front side rail hinge joint is jackknifed
attempting to make adjustments of the top linkage. closed, turn the front side rail adjustment screws
Figure 100 illustrates how to correct a door fit clockwise until satisfactory alignment is obtained.
which is tight at the top and open at the bottom. If See inset (C) of Figure 100.
the door fit were open at the top and close at the If there is no necessity to adjust the side rail
bottom, it would be necessary to add shims at the screws to obtain side rail alignment, turn both the
body mounting near the front and rear of the door. front and rear screws sufficiently tight to remove
In some instances, it might be necessary to add any slack in the linkage. Then tighten the lock-
shims at the body brackets on the right side of ing nut.
the car and remove them on the left side or vice
versa. However, the important thing to keep in TOP HEADER PANEL ADJUSTMENT—After the
mind is that shimming of the body as illustrated previous adjustments have been performed and
changes the fitting of the top header panel at the the header panel does not close easily on the lock-
top of the windshield frame. ing stops, further adjustment is provided to move
the header panel forward or backward. Loosen
POWER LINK ADJUSTMENT—With the top and the header panel to side rail screws and shift the
all door and quarter glasses in the raised position, header panel forward or backward as required.
carefully inspect both door glasses and quarter See inset (B) of Figure 100.
MyMopar.com
CO
BRACKET 00
BOLTS ¢>
VERTICAL
PROP
ÜÏÏL
FRONT SIDE RAIL PIVOT FRONT SIDE RAIL HINGE REAR SIDE RAIL HINGE VERTICAL PROP LINK
Small movement forward or back- Stop screw can be adjusted Stop screw provides adjust- Can be adjusted up or down
ward for smooth top raising or to bring side rails into proper ment of side rails to fit to obtain proper leveling
lowering adjustment and fit on alignment. quarter window. and centering of the top.
header bar.
POWER LINK
STOP Can be adjusted toward
front or rear to control for-
ward travel of the top.
CAM-
%f%
Z
LOCKING CAM AND STOP >
The cams and stops lock the
top header bar, top and
windshield header moulding.
ACTUATED BY
HYDRAULIC PISTONS
56P102
Figure 100 — Top Alignment and Linkage

Adjustment
MyMopar.com
ill
1. VENT WING BRACE. Adjust 2. DOOR GLASS UPPER STOPS. 3. CHANNEL BRACKET ATTACH- 4. QUARTER WINDOW ATTACH-
lock nuts to tip vent wing toward or Adjust to limit travel of glass in ING SCREWS. Adjust attaching ING SCREWS. Adjust attaching
a w a y from windshield post. raised position. screws to obtain proper alignment 'screws to tilt quarter window in or
of door glass and channels. out.
«!Í
5. QUARTER WINDOW UPPER

STOP. Adjust attaching screws to
limit travel of glass in raised
position.
il
6. CHANNEL ADJUSTING SCREWS.

Adjust attaching screws to tilt glass
toward or away from side rails.
Figure 101 —Convertible Coupe Window

55?])95
Adjustment
MyMopar.com
screw. This adjustment should be made whenever

the front run channel position is changed. See
Figure 101.
REAR QUARTER WINDOW ADJUSTMENT—Re-

move the rear seat cushion, remove the garnish
moulding, regulator handle and trim panel. Rear
window can be adjusted in or out by means of the
SHIM BODY BOLT HERE four adjusting screws which are threaded into the
T O CORRECT THIS FIT
pivot bracket. See Figure 101. The rear of the win-
dow is adjustable in or out by adjustments located
at the top and bottom of the guide track.
Figure 102 — Body and Door Opening The upward travel of the window is controlled
Adjustment by an adjustable stop located at the rear of the
window, as shown in Figure 101. The downward
travel has a non-adjustable stop located in the
reinforcement of the pillar post.
If further adjustment is required, it will be neces-
sary to add or remove shims at number 1 and 2
body mountings. Adding shims at the number 1 17. BODY SEALING PROCEDURES
body mountings and removing shims at the number
2 body mountings will tilt the windshield forward. SEALING COMPOUNDS
After shimming the body adjust doors if necessary. When sealing the exterior of the body, use a
light-colored and non-bleeding compound. Then,
If there is seepage across the header between
the newly-sealed portion can be painted the same
the top and tacking strip, seal the cloth to the
color as that of the remainder of the body. At points
tacking strip. Do not use an oil base sealer, as it
where a rubber weatherstripping is used to form
may stain the top.
a seal, it may be necessary to refit, shim and
VENT WING ADJUSTMENT—The vent wing and cement the weatherstrip.
door glass can be adjusted in several directions. Use a good quality sealer between the rubber
Remove the door garnish moulding and door trim. seal and the glass, or the body edge, to form a
The vent wing can be tipped forward or backward water-tight joint, when sealing the windshield and
by adjusting the lock nuts at the lower end of the rear window.
vent wing brace. See Figure 101.
RUBBER CEMENT—This cement may be used
To tip the vent wing forward, loosen the upper where a strong bonding of rubber parts to painted
lock nut and tighten the lower lock nut. To tip the or unpainted steel surfaces is desired. It can be
vent backward, loosen the lower lock nut and used for such purposes as the attachment of
tighten the upper one. The vent wing can be tipped weatherstripping at cowl ventilator, doors and
in or out by adjusting the front door glass run luggage compartment lid, or for the attachment of
channel. The lower end of this channel is held in felt pads.
place by a cap screw. Loosen the cap screw to
shift the channel in the elongated hole in the WINDSHIELD RUBBER SEALER—A light viscos-
attaching bracket. ity, colorless, rubber expander, this sealer can be
used where rubber is confined between a glass
DOOR GLASS ADJUSTMENT — When the vent and metal channel, such as on the windshield and
wing is adjusted to fit tight against the side-rail rear window glass. When applied to the edge of
weatherstrip, the upper front corner of the door the rubber, it will expand the rubber within 15 to
glass will also fit tight against the weatherstrip. 20 minutes. This sealer will not harm paint or
The upper rear corner of the door glass can be chrome finish and can easily be removed with a
made to fit against the weatherstrip by adjusting cloth before it sets.
the rear run channel. To do this, loosen the cap
screws at the lower end of the run channel. Then SEALING COMPOUND—This sealer can be used
hold the rear corner of the door glass tight against for all types of threaded joints, gaskets and
the side rail weatherstrip and tighten the cap machined joints. The compound never dries out.
MyMopar.com
BODY 389
DRAIN TROUGH
A water leak at the trough will show up on the
headlining, around the body pillar, on the floor or
possibly in the luggage compartment. The drain
trough is sealed on the top of the roof panel, on
the underside at the roof rail, and at the inner edge
of the roof rail. See Figure 104. Inspect the entire
length of the trough for possible openings, especi-
ally at the circled areas shown in Figure 103. Using
a thin wooden paddle, or a nozzle type applicator,
seal the openings with Body Seam Sealer. Touch
up the newly sealed points with paint to match the
color of the body.
COACH JOINTS
Figure 103 — Sealing Drip Moulding and
The coach joints at the center pillar should be
B-Post Weld
sealed with a hand type sealer that can be painted
over to match the body.
never sets hard. It is not soluble in gasoline, oil, WINDSHIELD AND REAR WINDOW
anti-freeze solutions, or water. It prevents corro- Water leakage at the windshield or rear window
sion, protects against contraction without seepage can occur at two places: between the weatherstrip
or leaks and can be applied with the brush sup- and the body metal fence, and between the
plied in the lid of container. weatherstrip and the glass. To locate the source
BODY SEAM SEALERS (FOR EXTERNAL SEAL-
of the water leak, perform the following test:
ING)—Sealers for this purpose are available Start at one lower corner and work across the
through local sources. These commercial sealers bottom to the other side. Another service man in-
can be used along welded joints, exterior roof side the car can mark the points of leakage with
rails, exterior belt lines, B-post welds, weather- chalk. Continue from the lower corner up the side,
stripping, and floor seams. It can also be used for and across the top to the center. See Figure 104.
caulking. Upon drying, this type of material forms Complete the test by starting at the other lower
a tough skin which can be painted with a touch-up corner and working up the side and across to
brush. the center.
If the leak is between the weatherstrip and glass,
HEAVY SEALING PUTTY (FOR INTERIOR SEAL- pry weatherstrip away and apply sealer in be-
ING)—This material, available at most hardware tween. See Figure 105.
stores, should be a heavy, fibrous, putty-like com-
pound which can be formed or rolled into pellets,
or large openings like moulding-clip holes. Other
compounds, which may be used for these purposes,
are the household caulking compounds which do
not completely harden, Dum-Dum, or body under-
coating materials. However, these latter com-
pounds cannot be painted.
NOTE
Before sealing, always clean all surfaces to
be cemented with unleaded gasoline. Do not
use kerosene, as this liquid leaves a thin film of
oil which will prevent adequate adhesion of
the sealer. Figure 1 0 4 — Checking Windshield for
Water Leaks
MyMopar.com
RF N?Q8CEMENÏ
55P1213 ×r 7
SPRING HA‰)lE
Figure 105 — Apply Sealer Between Weatherstrip Figure 107 — Cowl Ventilator Linkage
and Windshield Glass
COWL AREA
All welded seams should be sealed with a heavy
WINDSHIELD WIPER PIVOTS caulking compound. In addition all pad fastening
If a water test indicates leakage around the openings, attaching bolt openings, and grommet
windshield wiper pivots, remove the pivot and openings should be sealed to prevent water and
dust leakage. See points 1, 14, 16, and 17 in
gasket. Seal wiper pivots with sealing putty. See
Figure 112.
Figure 106. Install the gasket and pivot.
HOOD SEAL
Pull up the hood seal at the rear edge and apply

COWL VENTILATOR a liberal amount of Body Seam Sealer. Inspect the
drive nails in the seal to be certain that they are
If water comes in at the cowl ventilator, check tight.
the adjustment of the operating linkage and make HOOD HINGE BRACKET
certain that the cowl ventilator lid fits evenly on
the rubber seal. The actuating link may be ad- Seal the hood hinge bracket to cowl panel stud
justed to increase the pressure of the lid against holes with a heavy caulking compound. Also,
the seal. See Figure 107. If the cowl ventilator apply a ribbon of sealer around the top and sides
of the hinge bracket, as shown in Figure 108.
weatherstrip is loose, seal it with Rubber Cement.
SIDE PANEL
Figure 108— Sealing Hood Hinge Bracket

Figure 106 —Sealing Windshield Wiper Pivot to Cowl Studs
MyMopar.com
BODY 391
DOOR GLASS
Door glass that is too loose in the glass run

channel may allow water to enter around the edge
of the glass. To correct this condition install strips
of body elastic sealer tape behind the glass run
channel as shown in Figure 109. To do this it will
be necessary to remove the garnish moulding and
unfasten the glass run channel at the top.
DOORS
Before checking doors and door glass for leak-

age, make certain that all doors and windows are
adjusted correctly. If the doors fit properly and do \
65PI22O
not provide a good seal after a water test is made,
test the weatherstrip compression with a shipping Figure 109 — Shimming Door Glass Run Channel
tag. If the seal is poor at only one point the weath-
erstrip can be shimmed outward by putting a strip
of body elastic tape on the door and using weath-
erstrip cement. To replace the entire weatherstrip,
free the old weatherstrip from the door with sol-
vent and clean the door thoroughly of old cement.
Coat the door and the weatherstrip with cement
and let dry at least 20 minues before applying he
weatherstrip to the door. After pressing weather-
strip into place, leave the door open for at least
two hours before closing.
Closing the door too soon after applying the
weatherstrip will pull the weatherstrip out of place
before the cement has completely dried.
DOOR VENTILATOR WING
Water leaks around, or through, the front and

rear door ventilator wings may be due to improp- Figure 110 — Cement Watersh¡eld Over
erly adjusted wing assemblies, resulting in dis- Door Lock Opening
tortion of the weatherstrip. If excessive clearance
is found between the vent wing and the weather-
strip, or between the glass and window opening,
the garnish moulding should be removed and the
vent wing adjusted to the opening.
WATER SHIELD
The water shield at the door lock opening should

be cemented in place and free of wrinkles at the
bottom. See Figure 110.
Inspect the drain holes at the bottom of the door
frame to be sure they are not plugged. See Fig-
ure 111.
REAR DECK LID
Before water testing the deck lid make certain Figure 111 — Clean All Drain Holes In
that the deck lid is properly fitted. Door Frames
MyMopar.com
CO
14. DASH PANEL TO BODY POST TO
COWL SIDES FLOOR PAN TO REAR
FLOOR PAN AT 11. INTERMEDIATE TO 10. TIRE WELL BODY PANEL AND FUEL
LOWER RADIUS REAR FLOOR PAN
BOTTOM OF 'TANK FILLER NECK
(ALL)
"A" POST COVER TO BODY PANEL
SEAL OPENINGS
IN COWL PANEL
(GROMMETS, 9. FUEL TANK
ATTACHING BOLTS, SUPPORT
JOINTS, ETC.) BRACKETS
12. INTERMEDIATE TO
FRONT FLOOR PAN
FLOOR PAN
À TO FLOOR PAN
EXTENSION
5. WHEEL HOUSE
TO FLOOR PAN
BOTH SIDES
!
7
1. BODY SILL JOINT
FLOOR PAN TO
WHEEL HOUSE
to
BOTH SIDES BODY SILL TO m
WHEEL HOUSE
COACH J O I N T S -
UPPER ABOVE DOOR
AS WELL AS
LOWER IN SILL
z
ROOF PANEL 6. SEALER
15. HINGE POCKETS-

ABOVE AND BELOW SEALER
HINGE IN PARTICULAR
"A" POST TO
BODY SILL DRIP MOULDING
FLOOR PAN
QUARTER PANEL
RUBBER CORD
19. NOTE-SEAL ENTIRE
LENGTH OF DRIP RAIL
ABOVE AND BELOW
55P1043
Figure 112 — Body and Floor Pan Sealing Chart
MyMopar.com
BODY 393
CEMENT GASKET
é IN PLACE
56P244
Figure 113 — Sealing Deck Lid Weatherstrip Figure 114 — Cementing Rubber Tail Light
Trough Gaskets
Start the water test at the bottom of the deck lid seams. In some instances, it is advisable to water
and work slowly toward the top, on each side. test the location. All traces of water or dirt must be
Then work across the top of the lid. If leakage removed and the area thoroughly cleaned and
occurs at the seam between the weatherstrip dried before applying any sealing compound.
trough and the deck upper panel, and rear quarter
panel, pack the entire length of the underside of
the welding seams with Permagum. See Figure 113. 18. BODY REFINISHING MATERIALS
These color schedules are based on the names
TAIL LAMPS used to identify the original colors used in the
Water test the tail lamp area for possible leak- manufacture of Plymouth cars. The numbers
age into the luggage compartment. Water will shown on pages 393 and 394 for Acme and Ditzler
enter the trunk area if the rubber seal between the refinishing materials, available through their au-
tail lamp housing and quarter panel opening is not thorized distributors.
positioned correctly. To insure a good seal cement
the rubber gaskets to the quarter panel flange. See INTERIOR COLORS
Figure 114. Then install tail lamp housing and
tighten nuts securely. Ditzler
Miami Blue (Light) 11233
BELT MOULDING Biscayne Blue (Dark) 11234
A hand type sealing compound should be used Tampa Turquoise (Medium) 11235
on the belt moulding. The rear belt moulding is Bimini Blue Green (Dark) 11236
attached to the body by screws and nuts accessi- Cypress Brown Metallic (Dark) 21113
ble from the luggage compartment. Sealing at the Sarasota Sand (Light) 21118
screws is accomplished by sealing washers. Day†ona Tan 21132
Tighten the nuts as necessary.
Oscola Gray 31244
Tamiam¡ Green 41636
FLOOR PAN AREA
Gulf Green Metallic (Dark) 41637
Road splash can enter the body through any Ormand Green 41638
openings in the floor pan seams. Figure 109 shows
Glades Green (Medium) 41667
all sealing points on the body floor pan. For loca-
tions 1-15, 17 and 19, a "hand" type caulking com- Largo Green Metallic (Dark) 41677
pound can be used. Pompano Peach (Light) 60168
Seminole Scarlet (Medium) 70509
In most cases the need to seal can be determined
by visual inspection of the sealer at the welded
MyMopar.com
EXTERIOR COLORS
Acme Ditzler
Co/or Name Fleet-X Pro-Flex Quick Set Automotive
Enamel Lacquer Enamel Lacquer
Jet Black 206 1724 DQE-9000 DAL-9000

Powder Blue (Light) 22-8001 8001 DQE-11411 DAL-11411
Wedgewood Blue (Medium) 22-8002 8002 DQE-11412 DAL-11412

Turquoise Blue (Light) 22-8003 8003 DQE-41763 DAL-41763
Midnight Blue (Dark Met.) 22-8004 8004 DQE-11357 DAL-11357
Pine Green (Dark Met.) 22-8007 8007 DQE-41842 DAL-41841
Seaspray Green (Light) 22-8008 8008 DQE-41841 DAL-41842
Bronze 22-8009 8009 DQE-21209 DAL-21209
Pearl Grey (Light) 22-8010 8010 DQE-31320 DAL-31320
Charcoal Grey (Dark Met.) 22-8011 8011 DQE-31146 DAL-31146
Briar Rose 22-8012 8012 DQE-70598 DAL-70598
Cherry Red 22-8013 8013 DQE-70621 DAL-70621
Eggshell White 22-8014 8014 DQE-8038 DAL-8038
Canary Yellow 22-8015 8015 DQE-80787 DAL-80787
INTERIOR COLORS
Ditzler Ditzler
Co/or Name Code No. Color Name Code No.
Jet Black 9000 Oscola Gray 31244

Aster Blue (Light) 11372 Briar Rose 70598
Alamo Blue (Dark) 11440
Sienna Beige 21220
Turquoise Blue (Light) 41763
Taffy Cream 21210
Midnight Blue (Dark Met.) 11357
Ice Green (Light) 41794 Eggshell White 8038
Bronze (Met.) 21209 Pine Green (Met.) 41842
Ditzler Ditzler
Scotch Grain Enamels Code No. Scotch Grain Enamels Code No.
Jet Black Scotch Grain 9000 Bronze Scotch Grain 21209
Alamo Blue Scotch Grain (Dark) 11440 Briar Rose Scotch Grain 70598
Turquoise Blue (Green) 41763 Taffy Cream Scotch Grain 21210
Scotch Grain (Light) Eggshell White Scotch Grain 8038
Midnight Blue Scotch Grain (Dark) 11357 Ice Cream Scotch Grain 41794
Whitney Tan Scotch Grain 21230

Pine Green Scotch Grain (Dark) 41842
MyMopar.com
BODY 395
EXTERIOR COLORS
Acme D¡tzler
Fleet X Pro-Flex Quick Set Automotive
Co/or Name Enamel Lacquer Enamel Lacquer
Black 206 1724 DQE-9000 DAL-9000

Miami Blue (Light) 22-7736 7736 DQE-11233 DAL-11233
B¡scayne Blue Metallic (Dark). . 22-7737 7737 DQE-11234 DAL-11234
B¡m¡ni Blue Green (Dark) 22-7738 7738 DQE-11236 DAL-11236
Tampa Turquoise (Medium).. 22-7739 7739 DQE-11235 DAL-11235
Gulf Green Metallic (Dark). .. 22-7740 7740 DQE-41637 DAL-41637
Tamiami Green (Light) 22-7741 7741 DQE-41636 DAL-41636
Glades Green (Medium) , 22-7742 7742 DQE-41667 DAL-41667
Largo Green Metallic (Dark). , 22-7743 7743 DQE-41677 DAL-41677
Cypress Brown Metallic (Dark), 22-7744 7744 DQE-21113 DAL-21113
Palm Beach Grey (Medium). .. 22-7745 7745 DQE-31219 DAL-31219
Seminole Scarlet (Medium). . . , 22-7746 7746 DQE-70509 DAL-70509
Sarasota Sand (Light) , 22-7747 7747 DQE-21118 DAL-21118

Orlando Ivory (Light) , 22-7748 7748 DQE-80697 DAL-80697
Pompano Peach (Light) 22-7749 7749 DQE-60168 DAL-60168
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Black Scotch Grain , DUL-9000 Cypress Brown Scotch Grain DUL-21113
Biscayne Blue Scotch Grain. . . DUL-11234 Gulf Green Scotch Grain DUL-41637
Bimini Blue Green Scotch Grain DUL-11236 Largo Green Scotch Grain DUL-41677
MyMopar.com
VOLUME CONTROL MANUAL TUNING

CONTROL
RADIO PANEL
RADIO PANEL MTG SCREWS (2)
TONE SPEAKER CONTROL ANTENNA RECEPTACLE
(UPPER)
CONTROL & TRIMMER
RADIO MTG
NUTS (2)
SPEAKER LEADS
RADIO PANEL MTG _ __ nsert into clips on
SCREWS (2) (LOWER) ^~-^*^--— RADIO ASSEMBLY back of speaker)
DIAL LIGHT LEAD INSTRUMENT PANEL

MTG LOCKNUT
DIAL LIGHT LEAD SPEAKER MTG STUDS(3)

(Connect to panel
light switch)
RADIO MTG SCREW `·-.L,.

AND WASHER ASSY
'A' LEAD MTG
LOCKNUT
RADIO MTG BRACKET
RADIO MTG BRACKET
LOCKNUTS
HOLE IN TOP OF GLOVE INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPARTMENT FOR SE- REINFORCEMENT
CURING RADIO TO RADIO
MTG BRACKET
'A' LEAD
(Connect to "ACC" ter- SPEAKER ASSEMBLY
minal on ignition switch—
SPEAKER MTG LOCKNUTS(3)
terminal nearest driver's side of car) MOULDING MTG SCREWS 56 PI 04
Figure 1 — Radio Removal and Installation
¾>
IF=265 KC tour; ¦
55P1289
Figure 2 — Radio Circuit Diagram Model 832

MyMopar.com
397
SECTION XIX
ACCESSORIES
Page
1. Radio 397
2. Heater 398
3. Directional Signal 400
1. RADIO For best radio reception, be sure the antenna

rod is clean. When installing the antenna, route the
The custom-built Models 832 and 840 (Figure 1) lead in wire as far away as possible from the
are engineered to operate in conjunction with the instrument panel wiring. After the antenna and
electrical system. The radios have seven tubes, a receiver have been installed the radio should be
rectifier tube and push button tuning. The off and adjusted.
on switch is combined with the push button opera-
tion. RADIO ADJUSTMENTS
The custom-built Search Tune Model 916 has ANTENNA COMPENSATOR ADJUSTMENT —
eight tubes and a rectifier tube. The radio is turned Turn the radio ON and with the dial set at approxi-
off and on at the volume control. The first button mately 1400 kilocycles, the volume at full and the
at the left is the Search Tune Control. antenna fully extended, adjust the antenna trim-
mer for the maximum volume of a weak station,
INSTALLATION OF RADIO AND ANTENNA or background noise between stations.
Detailed instructions for installation are fur- SETTING PUSH BUTTONS — Push buttons
nished wth each radio and antenna package. should be set up in the daytime, since weak sta-
IF= 265 KC
>* `` *·
56P118

MyMopar.com
tions are stronger at night, and there is a possibility speaker wires from radio. Remove two lower grille
of setting a push button on a distant station carry- attaching screws (located inside of glove box).
ing the same program as the desired station. Remove the four upper moulding screws. Remove
two mounting screws located in upper part of
Turn radio on and allow it to warm up for 20 radio panel.
minutes. Antenna should be fully extended and the
tone control should be in high position. Remove radio bracket mounting screw located
inside glove box at top of glove box. Pull chassis
Pull out on button (push button cap cannot be
out of instrument panel.
removed), turn the manual control knob to the
desired station. Push the button in. The station is
now set tor automatic tuning. Follow the same
TIRE STATIC
procedure for the remaining buttons.
After completion of radio installation, road test
car for static on dry concrete and black-top pave-
NOTE ments, at both low and high car speeds, with
antenna extended to operating position, with radio
The numbers on the dial scale indicate the at full volume and tuned off station.
frequency range of the receiver. Before setting
the push button, tune carefully until you are If tire static noise is encountered, inject Tire
exactly on the station; turning to either side of Static Suppression Powder, Package Part No.
it will result in poor tone quality and excessive 1233883, into tires with Injector Part No. 1233884
no/se. When setting automatic tuning, it is and follow instructions on package.
preferred that the left-hand buttons tune in the
higher KC stations.
2. HEATER
The cowl vent heaters, Custom and Deluxe draw
REMOVAL OF RADIO CHASSIS
air through the cowl vent for heating, ventilating,
or defrosting. An increase in air flow while driving
Disconnect radio antenna lead in wire at radio is made possible by the location of the air inlet,
and disconnect the battery lead wire at the fuse making it unnecessary to use the heater blower,
holder, disconnect dial light lead, disconnect except at low car speeds.
IF= 262 KC
MyMopar.com
ACCESSORIES 399
For winter operation the cowl ventilator is open

permitting air to flow downward through the heat
exchanger, blower and distribution duct and into
the passenger compartment.
Passenger compartment temperatures are auto-

matically controlled by means of a thermostatic
water valve adjusted by moving the temperature
control to the desired point. For summer operation
two ventilator doors are provided in the firewall
to direct fresh air from the cowl vent opening into
the driver compartment. These doors can easily
be opened or closed by the convenient foot pedals. 5óPl67
Figure 6 — Heater Wiring Diagram

Toggle action hinge assures positive clamping
of the doors to prevent possibility of air, dust or
water leakage. Air enters through the cowl vent
and bypasses the heating system and enters INSTALLATION OF HEATERS
through the ventilation doors. The defroster motor Detailed instructions for installation of heater
is mounted on the distributor duct of the right side and adjustment of controls are furnished with
and forces air through slots in the windshield fence. each heater package.
Defrosting is continuous along the entire length of
the windshield fence. Due to the design of the duct,
DEFROSTER BLOWER MOTOR
greater efficiency is attained. The defroster unit is
large and runs at reduced speed but provides a REPLACEMENT—Disconnect the wires to the
great volume of air to the windshield. defroster blower motor. Remove three defroster
STUD
STUD BRACE—RIGHT
BRACE—LEFT TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLE.

DEFROSTER MOTOR
MOUNTíNG SCREWS
SPACER
DEFROSTER MOTOR
GROUND CABLE
SUMMER DOOR-RIGHT MOUNTING SCREW
PAD - * | | SPACER
SUMMER DOOR-LEFT MOUNTING SCREW
CAPILLARY TUBE CLIP
PAD CAPILLARY TUBE HEAT CONTROL
HOUSING AND DISTRIBUTION DUCT y VALVE
\
,,A —I |t~-7/IÓ"FAN
SPACER~5 REQUIRED . ' CLEARANCE
MOUNTING SCREW ~^¾?¾;

MOUNTING SCREW
5¿P!7ì
Figure 5 — Defroster Blower Mounting

MyMopar.com
blower mounting studs and remove the defroster 3. DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL

blower motor. See Figure 5.
The Directional Signal lever is located on the
left side of the steering column and returns auto-
HEATER BLOWER MOTOR matically to the neutral position when turn is
completed. Green indicator on lower left side of
REPLACEMENT — Disconnect wires to heater
speedometer flashes simultaneously with bulbs in
motor. Remove the three studs on blower housing
tail and parking lights until turn is completed.
and remove heater motor. See Figure 7.
On 1955 models the directional signals operate
only when the ignition key is turned to the left. On
HEATER CORE
1956 models the directional signals operate by
REPLACEMENT — Drain cooling system. Dis- turning the key either to the left or right, thereby
connect heater hoses at heater core. Disconnect offering a safety flashing light when parked at
heater motor wires. Remove attaching screws from night.
heater housing. Remove heater housing and re- The turn indicator switch prevents the stop light
move heater core from housing. from operating on the side where the directional
After installing heater core, housing, wires and signal is flashing. The flasher unit is so constructed
hoses, fill cooling system and make sure all hose that even though the indicator lamp is burned out,
connections are tight. Check for leaks. the directional signal lights will operate.
1/2" FAN CLEARANCE
SUMMER DOOR MOUNTING NUTS AND LOCKWASHERS

GROMMET IN DASH
HEATER MOTOR TO SWITCH CABLE

CONNECTOR
HOUSING MOUNTING SCREWS
HEATER MOTOR GROUND CABLE
HEATER MOTOR MOUNTING STUDS

MOUNTING SCREW
HEATER CORE TUBES
HOSE CLAMP
FITTING
HEATER TO ENGINE HOSE
RUBBER GASKET DRAIN TUBE—INSERT INTO HOLE IN HOUSING-
HOSE CLAMP ENGINE TO VALVE HOSE
VALVE TO HEATER HOSE
ENGINE TO VALVE HOSE
55P1287 HEATER TO ENGINE HOSE
Figure 7 — Heater Blower Mounting

MyMopar.com
ACCESSORIES 401
Detailed installation instructions are furnished 4. SUPPRESSING INTERFERENCE—Antenna or

in the directional signal package. See Figure 8 for receiver interference may be picked up by the
wiring diagram. antenna or the receiver. To determine which unit
is picking up the disturbance, disconnect the an-
tenna lead at the receiver and plug it into another
4. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES antenna. If the interference disappears the dis-
turbance is being picked up by the antenna. If
RADIO INTERFERENCE the antenna is picking up engine interference,
make sure the antenna lead is properly shielded
Three types of interference may be encountered, and connected to the receiver. Make sure the lead
each must be identified before an attempt is made is properly grounded. Check all high tension wires
to eliminate the interference. that connect with the distributor cap and ignition
coil for good contact with the terminal inserts.
J. EXTERNAL INTERFERENCE — This type is Push these wires in their receptacles as far as
due to street cars, neon lights, power lines, buses, possible to insure good contacts.
other automobiles, high tension lines, etc. This
interference can be readily identified by driving If the antenna lead-in is not properly routed, in-
into another locality and checking the radio for a terference may occur. The antenna lead-in should
change in the intensity of the interference at vari- extend through the grommet, over the hand brake
ous locations. bracket, speedometer cable and away from all
other wires to the antenna socket on the radio.
2. IGNITION SYSTEM OR GENERATOR INTER-
FERENCE—This type of interference appears in If the interference continues after these steps
the form of discharge, or a hum or whine from are taken, part of the disturbance may be picked
the generator. To identify this interference, shut up by the receiver, the battery or the pilot light
off the engine with the radio turned on but not lead. If such is the case, make certain all ground
tuned in on a station. If the noise disappears, the connections are clean and tight.
interference is coming from the ignition system
or the generator. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM — Sometimes, interfer-
ence may be caused by loose wires in the electrical
3. BACKGROUND NOISE INTERFERENCE — system. Check connections to all lights, horn but-
This interference may result when the radio is ton, cigar lighter, etc. Make sure contacts are clean
tuned in on a distant station which has a very and tight.
weak signal. It is introduced when using the full
volume of the set under certain conditions. In most IGNITION SYSTEM—A good precaution to fol-
cases, the interference may be due to atmospheric low in preventing interference from this possible
conditions or to a certain amount of inherent noises source is to keep the ignition system in good con-
from tubes and radio set. dition.
ALL SIX WIRES SHOULD BE CONNECTED

TO CORRESPONDING COLOR AT SWITCH
•BROWN
— GREEN
BLUE
TO
BLACK HORN
BACK-UP LAMP
WHITE RELAY"IGN.··
WHITE 4 RED SWITCH
GN.
DIRECTIONAL DIRECTIONAL DIRECTIONAL
SIGNAL SIGNAL SIGNAL
LAMPS YELLOW TO LAMPS
è-î
INDICATOR
BACK-UP !-.
LAMP
_ _ STARTER & IGN LAMPS ½3í , .
RIGHT FRONT ¡ ¦ LEFT FRONT SWITCH LEFT REAR ¡ ¡ RIGHT REAR
GROUND
t 56P166
Figure 8 — Six Wire Directional Signal Circuit

MyMopar.com
COIL MOUNTING
BRACKET CLAMP
BOLT
CAUTION: DO NOT
CONNECT ANY WIRIS REMOVE ALL WIRES FROM
TO LOWER TERMINAL FUEL GAUGE TERMINAL
OF FUEL GAUGE AND ATTACH TO BOTTOM
TERMINAL OF FILTER
PRIMARY POST
55P1331
55P1332
Figure 9 — Suppressing Coil Noises Figure 11 — Fuel Gauge Filter—Suburban Models

with Condenser
NOTE
Make sure spark plugs are clean and properly-
In some cases, electrical disturbances from
gapped. Also check for burned or improperly
nearly all power lines or other electrical equip-
adjusted distributor breaker points.
ment may be confused with ignition interfer-
COIL—A condenser which filters out noise from ence. Such disturbances may be heard whether
the coil comes with each radio; for proper installa- or not the engine is running. Check radio for
tion, see Figure 9. ignition interference in a locality that is free
from other sources that might produce like
GENERATOR—A condenser which filters out noises.
noise from the generator comes with each radio
set. When installing the condenser be sure not to
connect it to the field terminal, otherwise, damage RADIO DOES NOT OPERATE
to the voltage regulator may result. For proper in-
stallation, see Figure 10. Check the fuse. If the fuse is good, check for the
following conditions: Break in cable wire, defec-
FUEL GAUGE FILTER—A special filter unit is tive contact in fuse socket or defects in receiver
used on Suburban models to filter out the interfer- wiring.
ence which might be caused by the fuel gauge
points. Make sure that the filter is properly con-
nected as shown in Figure 11. CAUTION
VOLTAGE REGULATOR—A condenser which Do not use a fuse of higher amperage as it

filters out noise from the Voltage Regulator comes may cause damage to the radio transformer.
with each radio, for proper installation, see Figure
12.
GR\EII\TOR
MOUNT CONDENSER
UNDER GENERATOR
GROUND
56P106
Figure 10 — Suppressing Generator Noises Figure 1 2 — Suppressing Voltage Regulator
With Condenser Noises with Condenser
MyMopar.com
ACCESSORIES 403
If voltage is available at receiver, listen closely affected. This means that air has entered the sys-
to determine if the "B" power supply on the vi- tem and may have become trapped, limiting the
brator is operating. A humming sound will be circulation of the hot water. To correct condition
heard if the vibrator is working. If a vibrator is by forcing out the trapped air, loosen heater outlet
defective, it should be replaced. hose with the engine running. Be sure the tempera-
ture control valve works freely. Make sure the
Vibrator points which are stuck together can fan and motor are operating properly.
sometimes be jolted loose by momentarily touch-
ing the two fuse leads together. Do not hold leads 4. THERMOSTAT — Insufficient heat sometimes
together for more than a second as a direct short can be corrected by the installation of a high tem-
is created if the vibrator does not start to function. perature thermostat which starts to open at 180
degrees F., and if fully open at 200 degrees F.
If the vibrator is working but the set will not Never use a high temperature thermostat if an
operate, remove the radio for checking of the tubes alcohol base anti-freeze is used in the cooling
or necessary repairs. system. Alcohol has a boiling point of less than
200 degrees F., and the coolant will boil off when
HEATER LEAKAGE a high temperature thermostat is used. Use only a
permanent type anti-freeze with a high tempera-
HEATER HOSES—Coolant may leak out of the
ture thermostat.
system at heater hose connections, at water outlet
elbow and heater core. Tighten connections as
DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL LAMP WILL NOT LIGHT
necessary. Install new hoses if needed. Check
hoses for proper installation. If directional signal lamp bulb is burned out,
turn indicator lamp will not light when the circuit
HEATER CORE—If the defroster motor is work-
to the burned out bulb is energized. If bulb is in
ing satisfactorily, yet moisture or fog is not re-
satisfactory condition and all connections are
moved from the windshield, inspect heater core
tight, the cause may be: A defective flasher, or
and connections for a small leak. If such is the
switch; frayed or worn insulation; a break in feed
case, the leaking coolant may vaporize and fog wire from ignition coil to flasher, or in the feed
the windshield and windows. Make sure heater wire from flasher to switch.
drain tube allows water or moisture which might
enter through the cowl ventilator to pass out heater
TURN INDICATOR LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT
housing.
WHEN TURN IS MADE
INSUFFICIENT HEAT TURN INDICATOR LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT

WHEN TURN IS MADE IN ONE DIRECTION—If
1. VENTILATOR DOORS — Check ventilator
such a condition occurs, check for a burned out
doors for proper sealing. If ventilator doors are not
signal light bulb, a loose connection, or a poor
fully closed, cold air will enter directly into the
ground in the circuit.
passage compartment.
TURN INDICATOR LAMP WILL NOT LIGHT
2. TEMPERATURE CONTROL VALVE—•If the
WHEN TURN IS MADE IN EITHER DIRECTION—
temperature control valve is not operating prop-
If the turn indicator lamp does not light when a
erly, make sure that it fully opens and closes.
right or left turn is made, but the signal lights
3. AIR BOUND—If an air bound or air lock con- operate, either the indicator bulb is burned out or
dition exists in the heater, heat output will be the flasher is at fault and needs to be replaced.
MyMopar.com
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL & TAIL LAMP
RIGHT PARKING & TURN SIG. LAMP
I 16-BROWN , /
!—16 BLACK — - t f c >
-16 YELLOW
-16 BROWN-
RIGHT BACK-UP
LAMP
16 BLACK -CJO
& YELLOW J _
I PO X l
<?
LEFT BACK-UP
LAMP
16 BLACK f‡>
16 GREEN-
^
LEFT TURN SIGNAL & TAIL LAMP
LEFT PARKING & TURN SIG. LAMP

55P1010
Wiring Diagram—Lights and Turn Signals—1955
MyMopar.com
1 2 3 4 5 6
SPARK 2 4 6 8
PLUGS 1 3 5 7
IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR HORN RELAY
GENERATOR
REGULATOR I | \
\ 14 \
V3V^ I RED \ WITH POWER STEERING ONLY
16 /
O
o
STARTER MOTOR
i>
to
NEUTRAL
SAFETY 16 BLACK & YELLOW
SWITCH STARTER &
( POWER- IGNITION
FLITE SWITCH
ONLY)
STARTER SOLENOID
(STANDARD TRANSMISSION ONLY)
55P1009
Wiring Diagram—Starting, Generating, Ignition and Horn—1955 ê
MyMopar.com
P-28
P-29 SPARK PLUGS
1 2 3 4 5 6
2 4 6 8
SPARK PLUGS
1 3 5 7
IGNITION HORN RELAY
IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION COIL
COIL
16 GREEN
IGNITION ' 18 RED
DISTRIBUTOR
RADIO GENERATOR
CONDENSER RADIO REGULATOR WITH POWER
CONDENSER STEERING ONLY
NEUTRAL
SAFETY
SWITCH
STARTER MOTOR
}`6 (P/F ONLY)
BLACK
HORN BUTTON
18· BLACK & YELLOW STARTER AND

^ v — ^ IGNITION SW.
AM/
14
4-BLK BLACK
—WITHOUT P/F
i HEADLAMP SWITCH
AND 20 AMP.
STARTER SOLENOID CIRCUIT BREAKER
12 BLACK
56P113
Wiring Diagram — Starter, Generator, Ignition and Horn System—1956
MyMopar.com
STARTER GENERATOR
SOLENOID REGULATOR
ELECTRIC TEMPERATURE
SENDING UNIT
TO BATTERY
RELAY
LOW OIL
PRESSURE
POWER SWITCH
ANTENNA 18 RED
FUEL
GAUGE
TEMP.
GAUGE
184RED&BLK
i 18 2
ANTENNA RED&BLK RADIO
SWITCH O
L·LGEN. 9 AMP.
O V LAMP FUSE o
OIL PRESSURE
16 BLACK
I
WARNING LAMP GN.
TARTER AND
IGNITION SWITCH
CIGAR LIGHTER
16 BLACK
HEADLAMP SWITCH
AND 15 AMP.
CIRCUIT BREAKER
SUBURBAN ONLY FUEL GAUGE

TANK UNIT
56P107
Wiring Diagram — Instruments and Accessories—1956
MyMopar.com
RIGHT PARKING AND RIGHT TAIL, STOP AND
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
-18 BROWN—-p>dp
/IK 18 YELLOW- -18 BLACK ' ÷
•18 BROWN
RIGHT FRONT AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
HEADLAMP
.18 BLK & _ r t )
YELLOW j [ r
16 BLACK—|
RIGHT BACK-UP
RED LAMP
J TO HORN RELAY
FLASHER SOCKET
•l8BLACK-dD
2
"IGN."
GLOVE BOX LAMP LICENSE LAMP !
AND SWITCH
,_t~jTEMP. GAUGE AND

h
18 5r'FUEL GAUGE LAMP 79
BLACK & YELLOW
TO BATTERY
POSITIVE POST'
>
TERMINAL
BLOCK
HEADLAMP
18 BLK
¯ YELLOW
LEFT BACK-UP
16 RED. LAMP
LEFT PARKING AND -16 BLACK- -18 WHITE-
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
-18 YELLOW- 18 BLACK — Ll8 BLACK-
18 YELLOW ' •18 BROWN- — 18 GREEN-
18 GREEN -18 GREEN- LEFT TAIL, STOP AND
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
PILLAR SWITCH
Wiring Diagram — Lights and Turn Signals—1956
MyMopar.com
409
SECTION XX
AIR CONDITIONING
Page
¶. Air Conditioning 409
2. Precautions in Handling Freon 12 411
3. Inspection and Testing of Complete Air Conditioning System 412
4. Discharging Freon 416
5. Charging System with Freon 12 417
6. Precautions to Observe in Handling Tubing 417
7. Servicing the Compressor 418
8. Expansion Valve 424
9. Condenser 425
10. Receiver Fusible Plug 425
11. Receiver Strainer-Drier 425
12. Evaporator Filter 425
13. Evaporator 425
14. Blowers and Motors 426
15. Control Switches 426
17. Temperature, Pressure Relation Chart for Freon 12 429
1. AIR CONDITIONING mechanically operated as in an automobile en-

gine) and vapor is drawn into the cylinder. On the
The air conditioning system (Fig. l)f used on up-stroke, the suction valve closes and the vapor is
Plymouth carsf consist of the following: A two compressed until sufficient pressure is reached to
cylinder reciprocating type compressor evapo- force open the discharge valve, discharging the
rator and receiver. A bypass valve and a thermal high pressure and temperature vapor into the
switch which function automatically to control condenser.
temperatures when subjected to certain tempera-
ture conditions. The expansion valve is preset at In the condenser, the heat of compression and
the factory and is not adjustable. The strainer- the heat absorbed by the refrigerant in the cooling
drier is contained in the receiver for compactness. coil is rejected to the air flowing over the finned
Two blower speeds and two temperature condi- condenser tubes and the refrigerant is liquefied.
tions are provided through manually controlled The liquid refrigerant then flows into the receiver
switches. which acts as a storage tank at the outlet of the
receiver, it passes through a strainer-drier unit
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM CYCLE
which removes dirt and moisture.
The liquid and vapor enter the cooling coil in
Fundamentally, the refrigerant which is circu- the evaporator where the remaining liquid evap-
lated through the system by the compressor, picks orates due to heat absorbed from the air flowing
up heat at the evaporator coil, carries it to the con- through the coils. The completely vaporized re-
denser and there discharges it to the outside air. frigerant is then drawn back to the compressor,
thus completing the refrigeration cycle.
Starting with the compressor inlet, as shown in
Figure 1, the vapor entering the compressor is at Control of the flow of refrigerant from the expan-
a relatively low temperature and pressure. On the sion valve to the evaporator is automatic. The flow
downstroke of the compressor piston, the suction is controlled by spring tension, suction manifold
valve opens due to differential pressure (not pressure, and temperature.
MyMopar.com
CONDENSER
GENERATOR
AIR INTAKE
COMPRESSOR
I \ / MUFFLERS
V ~. „ .. . _ A
SOLENOID VALVE
RECEIVER
REFRIGERANT TUBES SIGHT GLASS STRAINER-DRIER
56P134
Figure 1—Air Conditioning System
The temperature control functions through a plus or minus five degrees, causes the thermal
manually operated switch, a solenoid by-pass switch to open and breaks the circuit to the sole-
valve, and a thermal switch. The solenoid valve is noid valve. When the temperature again reaches
normally open. When the temperature control 45 degrees, plus or minus five degrees, the thermal
switch is turned to the cold position, the solenoid switch closes.
is electrically energized and the valve is pulled The control switches are conveniently located
closed. This allows the system to operate at full to the left of the steering column on the instrument
capacity. Turning the switch to the cool position panel.
breaks the circuit to the solenoid and the valve Periodic owner service is limited to an occasional
opens. This allows hot vapors to flow from the cleaning of the outside of the condenser (about as
compressor to the evaporator and moderates the often as bugs and other matter are cleaned from
cooling effect of the system. A drop in the tem- the car radiator). The Filter should also be changed
perature of the suction pressure line to 30 degrees. at this time.
MyMopar.com
AIR CONDITIONING 411
2. PRECAUTIONS IN HANDLING DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE

FREON 12
Freon 12 when properly used is harmless. How-
ever, a few simple precautions should be observed
when handling Freon 12 to guard against injuries
or sickness that might occur where it is improperly
handled.
CAUTION
When working around a refrigerating sys-

tem, liquid refrigerant may splash and hit the
face. If the eyes are protected with goggles
(Tool C-3355) or glasses, no serious damage
may result. If a splash of refrigerant does hit Figure 2—Discharge Service Valve
the eyes, the eyes must not be rubbed. Freon
72 is at least 20 degrees below zero, tempera-
ture that eyes cannot normally withstand. INSTALLING MANIFOLD GAUGE SET
Apply cold water immediately to the area of
the eye to gradually get the temperature above Remove valve stem protective caps from com-
freezing point. Use of an antiseptic oil is help- pressor discharge and suction service valves.
ful as it forms a protective film over the eye Using Tool C-3361, make sure both valves are
ball until medical aid can be obtained. completely back-seated (counter-clockwise). The
normal operating position is when rotated in a
Do not Discharge in Areas Where An counter-clockwise direction. This position also iso-
Open Flame Is Exposed lates the service valve ports from the system
pressure.
Discharging large quantities of Freon 12 in
an average size work room can usually be Remove the protective caps from both the dis-
done safely as the vapor will produce no ill charge and suction service port caps. Install the
effect. However, this should never be done if four-foot test hose from the 600 pound gauge
the area contains an open flame, such as a fitting on Tool C-3354 to the discharge service
torch or gas heater. Freon 12 is normally non- valve port fitting Figure 2. Install the other four-
poisonous. Concentration of the gas in a live foot test hose from the 300 pound compound gauge
flame will produce poisonous gas. Splashing fitting on Tool C-3354 to the suction service valve
Freon 12 on bright metal or chrome should be port fitting Figure 3. Turn both valve handles of
avoided as the gas will tarnish bright metal. gauge set C-3354 clockwise as far as they will go.
This will completely seat valves and isolate gauge
Charging drums are shipped with a heavy
protecting cap. This cap is used to protect valve
and safety plug from damage. Always replace
cap after using charge drum.
The drum should never be exposed to radi-
ant heat or an open flame as the resultant
pressure from such heat may cause the safety
COMPRESSOR
plug to blow out. In charging the system, it ASSEMBLY
may be necessary to heat the drum to raise
the drum pressure higher than the pressure in
the system. Use a pail of hot water (no hotter
than you can put your hand into) to supply
heat to the drum. Never transport the charg-
ing drum in the passenger compartment. This
can be done more safely in the trunk com-
partment. 5óPI62
Figure 3—Suction Service Valve

MyMopar.com
set manifold center outlet from test hoses. To TESTING COMPRESSOR VALVES
admit pressure to gauges, rotate valve stems of
both suction and discharge service valves one turn Start engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m. Turn
clockwise. blower switch to "high" and the temperature
switch to "Cold." Operate for five to 10 minutes to
warm compressor, andf slow to 500 r.p.m.
3. INSPECTION AND TESTING OF
Close the SUCTION service valve stem, using
COMPLETE AIR CONDITIONING
Tool C-3361—Figure 4, clockwise until it is tightly
SYSTEM seated (engine running at idle speed). NEVER
The following test procedures have been set up SHUT OFF DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE with
as a logical sequence for testing the air condition- engine running or the compressor will be dam-
ing system for proper operation and for isolating aged. Do not operate system with suction valve
any of its components that are not functioning as closed any longer than absolutely necessary.
they should.
Observe the suction pressure on the compound
gauge. The pressure reading on the gauge should
PREPARATION FOR TESTS drop steadily. The pressure should drop to from
Move car into a well ventilated area and shut 15 to 20 inches of vacuum if the suction valves are
off engine. Connect exhaust suction system to tail in good condition. If 15 to 20 inches of vacuum
pipe. Place fender covers over fenders. Inspect cannot be obtained, first check the suction service
condenser and radiator for bugs, etc. Blow out valve to be sure it is fully seated before condemn-
from side opposite entrance with compressed air. ing and replacing valve plate assembly.
Place an electric fan (15 to 20 inch) in front of
radiator in such a manner as to blow as much air Shut off engine and watch the suction (com-
as possible over the condenser and maintain the pound) gauge. The vacuum should hold without
temperature pressure relationship, as outlined on dropping more than five inches within one minute
Page 429. Check radiator pressure cap. Cars if the discharge valve is in good condition. Return
equipped with air conditioning system require suction valve stem to full counter-clockwise posi-
14-pound pressure caps. Replace cap if it does not tion and then clockwise one turn. Replace valve
meet specifications. Check or add water to cooling plate assembly if tests do not meet these test
system to maintain proper level. conditions.
Check belt tension by applying a 9 to 12 pound
pull with a scale at the center of the longest span. CHECKING FREON LEVEL BY SIGHT GLASS
Belt deflection should be ¼ inch for compressor Connect a tachometer to the engine, start and
belts (each).
adjust engine speed to 1200 r.p.m. Turn the blower
Inspect blower fans for proper installation. Fans control knob to "High" position and temperature
may be moved in or out by loosening Allen set control to "Cold." Open car windows. Allow engine
screw in fan hub. to operate 1200 r.p.m. to clear sight glass.
Check direction of motor armature rotation. Fans Observe sight glass on right-hand fender panel.
should rotate clockwise. Check speed by rotating Sight glass should be perfectly clear (no bubbles)
blower switch to High and Low. within three to five minutes from the time engine
was started. If sight glass is not perfectly clear
Turn blower switch to high position. Test battery after three to five minutes' operation, the thermal
voltage at battery. Fully-charged battery should switch and by-pass valve should be tested. If this
read from 6 to 6.2 (1955 models) or 12 to 12.4 volts
test is O.K., the system should be partially charged
(1956 models) with blower switch on high speed
position (engine not running). Test voltage from to remove bubbles. If the high pressure gauge
motor lead junction block to ground. Difference shows a high pressure and the suction pressure is
(voltage drop) between voltage at battery and at normal, it is an indication of too much Freon. In
motor should not exceed .2 volt. Test ground circuit this case, bleed off Freon until bubbles appear in
from motor to frame. Voltage drop should not ex- sight glass and charge to remove bubbles. A sys-
ceed .1 volt. Clean and tighten all connections if tem that is low on Freon should be tested for leaks,
voltage drop exceeds specifications. corrected, and the system charged.
MyMopar.com
SUCTION SERVICE VALVE
DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE
Figure 4—Manifold Gauge Set Installed
TESTING STRAINER-DRIER
With engine operating at 1200 r.p.m., hold hand

on the fittings at both ends of the receiver strainer- WADE
CONNECTOR
drier. The temperature should be the same at both 2 INCH 16 GAUGE
ends. If the end of the receiver toward the left-hand
side of the car is cooler than it is at the other end,
the strainer-drier is defective (partially plugged) TERMINAL
and must be replaced.
TESTING THERMAL SWITCH AND SOLENOID 3/4 INCH I 6 GAUGE BARE WIRE
BY-PASS VALVE
Disconnect the Wade connector at solenoid
valve and insert special adaptor Figure 5 in series
with disconnected connector and Wade terminal.
ATTACH TEST LIGHT LEAD
The adaptor Figure 5 is for testing thermal switch
54X536
and solenoid valve. It may be fabricated by using
two 903895 terminals, a 1310489 Wade connector, Figure 5—Thermal Switch and Solenoid Valve
two-inch 16 gauge copper wire stripped as shown. Test Adapter
MyMopar.com
Allow test to continue. When the temperature

of the suction pressure tube at the evaporator
drops to 30 degrees F. (plus or minus 5 degrees),
the light should go out.
NOTE
With the temperature of the suction pressure
evaporator outlet at 45 degrees F. or above,
the thermal switch contacts should be closed
and the electrical circuit to the solenoid com'
plete. If the test results are as outlined, the
solenoid valve is functioning or the tempera-
ture would not change. If the light goes off
and on, the thermal switch is functioning.
Figure 6—Test Light C-744 and Adapter
Installed
TESTING EXPANSION VALVE OPERATION
FOR PROPER SUPER HEAT
and a piece of 16 gauge bare wire ¾ inch long to
wrap around bared section of two inch wire. Solder The proper super heat should be 8 degrees to 15
in place. degrees F. Before attempting to measure the super
Connect lead from test lamp (Tool C-744) to heat, it is essential that all of components of the
adaptor and ground the remaining test lamp lead air conditioning system be functioning properly.
to a good clean ground. Place test lamp suction With the blowers, condensers, solenoid valve,
cup on fender so light is visible from right rear of thermal switch, strainer-drier and compressor
car, as shown in Figure 6. With engine running at working properly and with the system charged
1200 r.p.m., turn the blower control knobs to "Low" with the proper amount of Freon 12 and oil at 100
speed and the temperature control to "Cold." Close degrees F. (300 Saybolt), the following test and
all car windows, doors, and cowl ventilator. Install adjustment should be carefully followed.
thermometer clip on evaporator suction tube outlet
fitting, place thermometer in clip and wrap clip Make sure the compressor discharge pressure
and bulb with a rag. See Figure 7. Check tempera- does not exceed 275 psi. The pressure will vary
ture reading of thermometer at evaporator suction according to the ambient temperature. On hot
pressure outlet. If temperature reading is 45 de- days, an electric fan placed in front of the car will
grees F. (plus or minus 5 degrees) or higher, the hold the pressure down while testing.
test lamp should be lit.
On cool days where the temperature is below 70
degrees F., it will be necessary to turn on the car
heater, adjust the heater control valve to the warm-
est position and close all windows. The heat from
the heater will warm up the temperature of air
in the car interior and keep the thermal switch
from operating before the reading of the super
heat is obtained.
Install thermometer clip (Tool C-3421) on the
suction tube fitting at evaporator outlet. Be sure
there is a good, tight mechanical connection
between the fitting and the thermometer clip.
Wrap a soft, dry cloth around the suction tube
fitting and thermometer bulb, Figure 7. This will
prevent the atmospheric temperature from reach-
ing the temperature of the bulb and give an
Figure 7—Thermometer Installed in Suction Line incorrect reading.
MyMopar.com
EXAMPLE OF CHART FOR DETERMINING SUPER HEAT
Corrected
Suction Temperature
Observed Pressure Temperature at
Suction (2 lbs. Degrees F. Thermometer
Pressure Added To From T-P On Suction Super
At Gauge Observed) Relation Line Heat
48 lbs. 50 lbs. 53 F. 55 F. 2F.

43 lbs. 45 lbs. 49 F. 54 F. 5F.
39 lbs. 41 lbs. 45 F. 52 F. 7F.
37 lbs. 39 lbs. 42 F. 51 F. 9F.
35 lbs. 37 lbs. 40 F. 52 F. 12 F.
Observe compressor pressures. They should be TESTING FOR LEAKS WITH LEAK DETECTOR
approximately the same as those shown in the
Where a system has been found to be low on
chart, according to the ambient temperature. If
Freon or following repairs on the system that
the compressor head pressure is low, the air blast
necessitated the opening of a connection, it is
across the radiator and condenser should be
necessary to test for leaks and tighten connections
altered until the proper head pressure is obtained
or make repairs as required before the system is
(moved further away).
charged and put in operation. If a system has been
discharged for making repairs or to eliminate
AVERAGE TEMPERATURE PRESSURE RELATIONSHIP moisture, the system must be evacuated before
AT AN ENGINE SPEED OF 1200 R.P.M. partially charging to test for a leak.
Partially charge the system with Freon 12, as
Ambient Temperature Discharge Pressure outlined in Charging the System with Freon 12,
60° F. 100-150 Page 417, and proceed as follows: This is necessary
80° F. 140-190 only where the Freon supply in the system is very
low, or where system has been evacuated.
100° F 190-240
líO°F. 230-280 The Tool C-3444, using petroleum gas, does not
require generating to light. lust turn valve on, light
it, and adjust to small flame.
After the thermometer reading and the head
Move the leak detector snifter tube over all
pressures have stabilized, make a note of the indi- connections. When a leak is found, the flame in
cated readings and refer to the Temperature-Pres- the burner will turn bright green. Move the de-
sure Relation Chart. As there is approximately two tector tube around the connection to determine the
pound differential in the observed reading at the magnitude of the leak. If a larger leak is found
suction gauge and that present at the position of the color of the flame will turn from bright blue
the thermometer on the suction tube at the evapo- to bright purple.
rator housing, add two pounds to the observed
reading on the suction gauge. This differential in
readings is due to internal friction in the tubes NOTE
and this correction factor will give the actual If a leak is found at a flared connection,
reading at the thermometer position. first try tightening the connection, using two
wrenches. If the leak cannot be eliminated by
To obtain actual super heat reading, find the
tightening, the system must be evacuated,
difference between the thermometer reading and and make necessary repairs. Again partially
corrected chart reading. The following is an exam- charge, and retest. If no leaks are found, add
ple. Insert values obtained in test. If super heat is to the partial charge until the system contains
outside specifications of 8 degrees to 15 degrees four pounds of Freon 12.
F.# replace the expansion valve. Refer to chart.
MyMopar.com
4. DISCHARGING FREON
CAUTION
Install gauge set manifold Tool C-3354, if not
installed, as shown in Figure 4. Using Tool C-3361, Be sure pressure has dropped to zero before
be sure both discharge and suction service valves attaching hose to vacuum pump.
are fully back-seated (counter-clockwise). Con-
nect six-foot test hose to the gauge set manifold
center fitting. Insert the free end of six-foot test hose Connect the six-foot test hose to the center fitting
into exhaust suction system and turn exhaust of the gauge set manifold and to the connection on
system blower on. Although Freon is non-toxic un- the vacuum pump (Tool C-3372). Open both dis-
less in or near an open flame# expelling the Freon charge and suction service valves about one turn,
gas into the exhaust system is a recommended rotating both valve stems clockwise. Open both
safety precaution. gauge set manifold hand valves, (turn counter-
clockwise). Start vacuum pump and observe com-
Open the discharge and suction service valves pound gauge. Operate pump until gauge registers
one turn. Crack manifold gauge set discharge 26 to 28 inches of vacuum. Continue evacuating at
hand valve a fraction of a turn counter-clockwise 26 to 28 inches for five minutes. Failure to obtain
to allow gas to escape. Opening the manifold dis- 26 to 28 inches of vacuum would indicate a leak
charge hand valve too much in order to quickly in the system. Close both gauge set manifold hand
discharge the system will draw the compressor valves (clockwise). Turn off vacuum pump and
lubricant off with the Freon. As the pressure on remove long test hose from pump. Charge system
the manifold discharge gauge drops near zero, with one pound of Freon 12.
open the manifold suction hand valve.
Start the engine and adjust speed to 1200 r.p.m.
Turn blower controls to High and temperature
control to Cold. Operate in this manner for five
NOTE minutes and test for leaks. Discharge the system
If brazing or some similar repair is to be which will sweep out any remaining moisture.
made on system, leave the system open to Again evacuate the system at 26 to 28 inches of
atmospheric pressure. After service work has vacuum for 30 minutes. Recharge system with four
been completed, the system must be evacu- pounds of Freon 12.
ated, partially charged, and leak tested before
final charge.
EVACUATING AND SWEEPING THE SYSTEM

Whenever the system has been open to atmos-
phere, as in replacing a component to make repairs
or through damage, it is absolutely essential that
the system be evacuated and swept with Freon to
remove all air and any moisture that has entered.
Evacuating the system means that it must be sub-
jected to a suction of 28 inches of vacuum for a
period of 30 minutes, after sweeping with one
pound of Freon 12.
Sweeping the system means to charge the sys-
tem with one pound of Freon 12, or charge until a
pressure of 100 pounds registers on discharge
gauge. Operate the system for five minutes and HOT WATER
again discharge to remove as much moisture as 125 DEGREES
MAXIMUM
possible.
EVACUATING THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM

Connect gauge set manifold. Tool C-3354, to the
compressor, as shown in Figure 4 (if not installed). ^54x598
Discharge system if not previously discharged. Figure 8 — C h a r g i n g System w i t h Freon 12
MyMopar.com
5. CHARGING SYSTEM WITH Follow the preliminary steps in charging the

FREON 12 system, but eliminate those steps involving the
scales. Start the engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m.
ADDING FREON 12 BY WEIGHT METHOD Turn the blower control switch to the Low position
Connect the six-foot test hose to the center fitting and the temperature switch to Cold. Rotate both
of the gauge manifold and to the connection of the the suction and discharge service valve stems one
Freon 12 tank, as shown in Figure 8. Be sure both turn (clockwise). Where discharge gauge hand
gauge manifold valves are fully closed (clockwise). fluctuates when engine is running, close discharge
valve slowly (counter-clockwise) until gauge hand
Open both the discharge and suction service steadies.
valves one turn (clockwise), if not previously done.
Where discharge gauge hand fluctuates when en- Open the Freon tank valve one half turn. Open
gine is running, close discharge valve slowly the suction valve on the gauge manifold slightly
(counter-clockwise) until gauge hand steadies. (counter-clockwise). Control the Freon entering the
Open the valve on the Freon 12 tank slightly and system with this valve. Do NOT allow suction
loosen the six-foot test hose at the gauge manifold. pressure to exceed 60 psi.
Leave connection loose for about a second to purge Carefully watch the sight glass. CLOSE gauge
the air from the hose. Close Freon tank valve. manifold suction valve (clockwise) the moment the
Start the engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m. with sight glass is clear of bubbles. Stopping the flow of
blower controls set to Low and temperature control Freon into the system as soon as the sight glass is
set at Cold. clear (free of bubbles) is important. Too much
Set the Freon 12 tank (UPRIGHT IN A PAIL OF Freon in the system can cause damage.
WARM WATER). The temperature of the warm
water must not exceed 125 degrees F. Set pail and Operate system for five minutes and again ob-
Freon tank on Scale (Tool C-3429) and weigh serve sight glass for presence of bubbles. If there
assembly. Make a note of the combined weight. is still evidence of bubbles, continue to carefully
charge until sight glass is clean and repeat five
minute run. Where no bubbles are present after
CAUTION five minutes of operation, charge system with
It is absolutely essential that an accurate additional Freon for ten seconds.
scale such as Tool C-3429 be used. Bath scales
Close Freon tank valve. Loosen hose connection
are not accurate below 100 lbs.
at tank to gradually release Freon from hose. Dis-
connect hose after Freon has escaped. Back-seat
Open the Freon 12 tank one half turn. Open suc- the suction and discharge service valves (counter-
tion valve on gauge manifold slightly (counter- clockwise). Remove gauge manifold and install
clockwise). Control the Freon 12 entering the sys- service valve and service port protective caps.
tem with this valve. Do NOT allow suction pressure
to exceed 60 psi. Be sure both discharge and 6. PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE IN
suction pressure service valves are open about HANDLING TUBING
one turn (clockwise). Carefully watch scale and
shut Freon 12 tank off when system has absorbed Cleanliness During Storage and Installation—It
four pounds of Freon 12. If a partial charge is is of utmost importance that refrigeration tubing
desired for testing leaks, charge system with one be kept clean and dry. Refrigeration tubing is
pound of Freon 12, or charge until 100 pounds ordinarily purchased in rolls with the ends crimped
pressure is reached on discharge pressure gauge. and sealed air tight. When tubing is used from a
Close suction valve on gauge manifold (clock- roll, reseal the unused portion to prevent dirt and
wise). To disconnect Freon 12 tank, loosen six-foot moisture from getting inside. A piece of tubing that
test hose, allow Freon in hose to escape slowly has been cut, flared and prepared for installation
and remove hose from tank. should have the ends sealed until the actual
installation is being made.
ADDING FREON 12 BY SIGHT GLASS METHOD
CUTTING AND FLARING
In some cases, due to extenuating circumstances,
it may be necessary to add Freon 12 to the system Tubing should always be cut with a regular tube
to provide cooling, without weighing the Freon as cutter. Tool C-3478, as shown in Figure 9. Never
is normally required. use a hack saw. After cutting the tube, ream
MyMopar.com
BRAZING JOINTS
Leaks at braze joints may be repaired with a

petroleum gas torch or an ordinary acetylene
torch. Discharge system before using torch to
braze leaking joints.
Care should be exercised to avoid excessive
heat when using an acetylene flame to solder or
braze a joint as excessive heat will cause damage
to tubing and fittings. Silver solder flux should be
put on the joint. When the joint is silver soldered
or brazed, clean the newly made joint vigorously
with a stiff wire brush to make sure the joint is
properly soldered or brazed. Very often the flux
will melt forming a hard crust on the joint that is
Figure 9—Bending, Flaring and Cutting Tubing apparently leak tight until put in service when the
(Tool C-3478) slightest vibration breaks away the crust of the
flux, causing a leak. The usual precautions should
be followed before repairing a sweat type joint,
such as cleaning thoroughly, applying sufficient
out the inside of the tube with Tool C-3478 to flux, heating to a temperature that will cause the
eliminate all burrs and provide a good seating silver solder to flow freely, and testing after
area when the tube is flared. The tube should be repairing the joint.
double flared with Tool C-804.
Always inspect a flared joint before installation 7. SERVICING THE COMPRESSOR
to determine if there are any cracks or blemishes
on the flare that would cause a possible leak. It The following component parts of the compres-
should be emphasized that the retention of Freon sor Figure 10 are serviced: compressor unit, valve
in a system reguires flared or brazed joints of the plate assemblies, suction service valves, cylinder
highest guality. head, oil sight glass, gaskets, shaft seal, and
support brackets.
The compressor refrigerant oil may be replaced
CAUTION or corrected to the proper level. Any damage to
Tubing should always be cut with a regular
the pistons, cylinders, crankshaft or connecting
tube cutter. Copper washers must be used
rods, requires replacement of the complete com-
where joint is steel to steel, or steel to brass.
pressor assembly.
Copper to steel or brass requires no washer.
Use vaseline on flared surface connections REPLACING COMPRESSOR (OIL LEVEL PRECAUTION)
when installing or repairing leaky tube con-
New compressors are shipped fully equipped
nections to improve sealing and reduce torque
with the exception of the drive pulley. The com-
required. Never use any sort of sealing com-
pressors are charged with treated dry air to
pound between the tube flare and the male
prevent air moisture or dirt from entering, and
surface.
contain 12 ounces of 300 Saybolt refrigerant oil
(oil level at center of sight glass compressor laying
horizontal on bench).
SECURING THE TUBING
When replacing a compressor for any reason, it
Tubing that is left free to vibrate and move about is imperative that the oil level in the compressor
excessively will soon harden the area of the tube be corrected to the proper amount. Even though
at the flared section so that it may become brittle the old compressor had no oil when removed,
and break. It is very important that copper tubing some oil may still be in the rest of the system.
be attached to the car structure. Flexible con-
nectors known as "vibration eliminators" have Where an old compressor is found to have no
been placed on either side of the compressor to oil, or where oil level is very low or is too high, the
guard against tube breakage at that point. oil in the new compressor must be siphoned off to
MyMopar.com
LOCKWASHER
SCREEN
COMPRESSOR
GASKET GASKET
PLATE
GAUGE
GASKET
OLT
CYLINDER HEAD
SCREW
WASHES
56P15Ì
Figure 10 — Compressor—Disassembled
the minimum level of ¾ inch. Then, after the crankcase to become comparatively free of liquid
installation is completed, the system should be refrigerant. An oil sight glass is provided in the
operated for ten minutes, the engine shut off, and compressor crankcase so that the oil splash may
the oil level checked and adjusted to ¾ to one inch, be observed while the compressor is in operation.
if required. Use a suction gun to remove oil if If a splash is observed, it indicates ONLY that there
level is too high. This procedure should be re- is oil in the compressor. It does not tell you if there
peated several times until level remains at ¾ inch is TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE OIL. To determine
to one inch. the oil level accurately it is necessary to measure
it with a dip stick.
Stop engine, remove protective caps from com-
CAUTION
pressor discharge and suction valves using Tool
When working on the air conditioning sys- C-3361 and close both valves by turning valve
tem under pressure, protect the eyes with stems clockwise until they seat firmly. Never start
goggles (Tool C~3355) or glasses so no serious engine with discharge valve closed and drive belts
damage can result. connected to engine.
Clean dirt away from compressor oil filler plug
with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
MEASURING COMPRESSION OIL LEVEL
Carefully loosen the cap on the service port of the
Start engine and run at moderate speed (air discharge valve approximately one-quarter of a
conditioning turned on) until compressor is warm. turn and gradually release the gas pressure from
This will automatically cause the compressor the compressor. When the gas pressure in the head
MyMopar.com
decreases, loosen, but do not remove the oil filler chloride. At least one gallon of the solution should
plug on the side of the compressor. This will allow be pumped through the system.
the gas pressure in the compressor crankcase to The pump used to reverse flush the system must
drop. If the oil level is checked immediately after be clean and capable of at least 50 pounds
a trip (driven at high speeds), the level will be pressure.
slightly higher than normal.
Remove the mufflers from the old compressor,
Remove the oil filler plug and, using a dry, clean, reverse flush them with carbon tetrachloride and
plunger type rod (½ inch welding rod), measure install mufflers on the new compressor, using new
the oil level. The correct oil level is from ¾ to 1 gaskets. Be sure to use new copper washers in
inch. Siphon off excess oil or add Air Conditioning the flared connections. Thoroughly clean the ex-
Compressor Oil (300 Saybolt at 100 degrees F.), as
pansion valve inlet screen and valve. Install new
required. After oil level has been checked and
receiver strainer-drier. Install new solenoid valve.
corrected if required, replace the oil filler plug but
Lay compressor flat on bench in horizontal posi-
do not tighten at this time.
tion. Oil level in compressor should be at center
To purge air out of the compressor cylinder and of sight glass.
crankcase, make sure cap on discharge valve
service port is loosened approximately one-half INSTALLING COMPRESSOR—SYSTEM DISCHARGED
turn, and the oil filler plug on side of the compres-
sor a full turn. Using Tool C-3361, slightly open Set new compressor with full factory oil level
suction service valve by turning valve stem (mufflers attached) on the mounting bracket and
counter-clockwise. Let gas drift slowly through install the bolts, lockwashers and nuts. Tighten
the compressor for about 10 seconds. First tighten evenly to 20 foot-pounds torque. Install generator
the oil filler plug and then tighten the cap on the adjusting strap. Adjust compressor drive belt ten-
discharge service port. Back-seat both discharge sion to obtain a 9 to 12 pounds pull with a scale
and suction service valves by turning the valve applied at the center of the longest span between
stems counter-clockwise. Replace protective caps pulleys, deflection should be ¼ inch. Connect
on discharge and suction service valves. flared tubes to compressor muffler connectors,
using two wrenches. Use new copper washers in
REPLACING DAMAGED COMPRESSOR
flared connections.
Install manifold gauge set C-3354 and attach
To replace an old compressor with a new one, eight-foot test hose to gauge manifold center
where the indications are that the compressor has fitting and to vacuum pump, as outlined on Page
failed and that metal particles are circulating in 416. During the time that the sweep charge is in the
the system, proceed as follows: system, test for leaks. Then, continue evacuation
procedure after eliminating any leaks.
REMOVAL OF COMPRESSOR—SYSTEM DISCHARGED
Charge system with four pounds of Freon 12.
Completely discharge the entire system. Remove Operate system for 20 minutes engine running at
the drive belts and generator adjusting strap from 1200 r.p.m„ blower control set at High and tem-
compressor. Disconnect the discharge and suction perature control at Cold. Stop engine and check
tube flared connectors at the compressor mufflers. oil level. Rotate discharge and suction service
Always use two wrenches when disconnecting valve stems (counter-clockwise) until fully back-
flared connections to prevent damage to flares seated. Remove gauge set manifold and replace
or tubes. protective caps.
Remove the four compressor to mounting brac-
ket bolts. Remove compressor and set on bench. REMOVAL OF COMPRESSOR—SYSTEM CHARGED
Remove receiver strainer-drier unit, expansion To eliminate the need of discharging the com-
valve and solenoid valve. Connect jumper tubes plete system for the removal of the compressor
across vacated spaces left by removal of strainer- for engine or compressor service, it is permissible
dried unit, expansion valve and solenoid valve. to split the muffler bracket with a hacksaw, as
shown in Figure 11. Then, proceed as follows:
Connect a pressure pump to the suction side of
the system. Connect a hose or tube to the discharge Start the engine, operate at a fast idle until com-
side. Insert hose or tube in a pail to receive flush- pressor is warm, and, shut off engine. Remove
ing. Reverse flush the system with carbon tetra- valve stem protective caps from both the discharge
MyMopar.com
and suction service valves. Close off both valves

by rotating valve stems fully clock-wise with
Tool C-3361.
Loosen the port caps on both the service valves
a couple of turns to gradually release the Freon
gas pressure from the compressor. Loosen oil filler
plug a few turns. Remove the drive belts and belt
tension adjusting strap from the compressor.
Disconnect the discharge tube flared connection
at the discharge (lower) muffler and cap tube nut
and male connector. Remove the Allen screw from
the suction service valve. Remove the upper
muffler bracket to compressor attaching bolt and
gently lay the suction valve, muffler and tube
assembly to one side. Do not bend the vibration
eliminator excessively or it may become damaged. Figure 11—Separating Muffler Bracket
Cover suction port in compressor and suction valve
with masking tape.
Rotate both gauge set hand valves (clockwise)
Remove the compressor to mounting bracket and until they are fully seated. Rotate both discharge
support bracket bolts and remove compressor and suction service valve stems (counter-clock-
from engine. wise) until they are fully back-seated.
Start engine and turn on blower and temperature
INSTALLATION OF COMPRESSOR control switches to High and Cold. Operate engine
—SYSTEM CHARGED for five minutes, stop engine and test for leaks.
Place compressor on mounting bracket and start Test system for operation. If it is satisfactory,
bolts, tightening them finger tight. Remove the remove gauge set and replace caps.
masking tape from suction service valve and com-
pressor ports, being sure both surfaces are clean. COMPRESSOR VALVE PLATE ASSEMBLY
Coat a new suction service valve gasket with The usual indication of defective or damaged
refrigerant oil and place over valve port. Install compressor valves is a lack of cooling capacity.
suction service valve and tighten Allen screws to Before condemning valves, they should be tested
15 to 20 foot-pounds torque. Tighten compressor as follows:
mounting bracket to compressor and support
bracket attaching bolts to 20 to 25 foot-pounds TESTING VALVES
torque.
Install gauge set on compressor as outlined on
Remove caps from discharge tube nut and Page 411. Start engine and turn on blower tempera-
muffler connector. Insert a new copper washer ture switches to High and Cold. Operate for 10 to
and connect flared connection, tightening securely. 15 minutes at 1200 r.p.m. to warm up compressor
so that the crankcase is free of excessive refriger-
Install compressor drive belts and belt tension ant saturation. Slow engine speed to idle and
adjusting strap. Adjust belts to a ¼ inch deflection rotate suction service valve stem (clockwise) until
with a 9 to 12 pound pull applied with a scale at the valve is fully front seated.
the center of the longest span between pulleys.
Install manifold gauge set (Tool C-3354).
CAUTION
Crack the suction service valve open (counter-
clockwise) and tighten oil filler plug. Crack suc- Never rotate (front seat) the discharge serv-
tion gauge hand valve for an instant to purge ice valve fully clockwise while the engine is
air from compressor and suction tube. Close running or the compressor will be damaged.
suction gauge hand valve and open discharge
service valve (counter-clockwise) slightly. Crack
discharge gauge hand valve for an instant to purge Observe suction gauge on gauge set. The pres-
air from discharge side of compressor. sure should drop to zero when valve is seated and
MyMopar.com
bly upside down. Lay on the bench with bolts

facing up. Handle new gaskets carefully as they
are fragile. Dip new gaskets in clean refrigeration
oil. Place the cylinder head gasket, then the valve
plate, and last, the valve plate gasket, over the
bolts, Figure 10. Lift the cardboard, turn assembly
over, place the entire assembly carefully on the
cylinder block and start bolts. Tighten bolts evenly
(from the center out) from 15 to 20 foot-pounds
torque. Bleed air from compressor and remove
gauge set. Install inlet hose and tube and fill
cooling system.
Start engine and operate at a fast idle with the

Figure 12—Valve Plate Assembly temperature control switch at Cold and the blower
switch set to High Speed until compressor is warm.
Then, shut off engine. Remove valve Stem Protec-
on down to from 15 to 20 inches of vacuum, if the tive caps from both valve stems (clockwise) with
suction valves are in good condition. Shut off en- Tool C-3361 until they are fully seated. Gradually
gine while watching the gauge. The vacuum loosen oil filler plug a few turns to release pressure
should not lose over five inches in one minute, if from compressor.
the discharge valves are in good condition. If
(when the engine is stopped) the gauge hand Remove the upper right-hand radiator fan
drops back to zero, the valves are defective and shroud. Remove the self locking bolt and washer
should be replaced. Replace the complete valve from compressor shaft. While supporting pulley
plate assembly. See Figure 12. with one hand, tap the pulley with a soft hammer
to jar hub from tapered shaft and remove assembly
REPLACING VALVE PLATE ASSEMBLY from compressor.
(GAUGE SET INSTALLED)
Drain the cooling system and remove inlet hose REMOVING BELLOWS SEAL
and tube. Rotate the discharge and suction service Remove compressor front bearing and plate
valve stems clockwise until both valves are fully screws. Install special puller (Tool C-3473), as
front seated. Slowly open the discharge gauge set shown in Figure 13, screw in on alignment screws
hand valve slightly to relieve compressor pressure until inner steps on puller contact bellows evenly.
through the center outlet hose and into an exhaust Hold compressor shaft from rotating by placing
suction system. When pressure drops to zero on screw driver in shaft keyway slot and allow it
discharge gauge, open suction pressure gauge set to rest against puller leg while turning puller screw
hand valve.
Remove compressor cylinder head bolts and
tap the cylinder head with a plastic hammer. If,
when lifting the cylinder head, the valve plate does
not come off with it, separate the head from the
plate by placing a brass rod against the plate and
head (between cylinders at the side of the head)
and tapping it. Do NOT tap the plate near a fin-
ished surface. Remove head, valve plate and
gaskets. Examine the valves. If the valves are
broken, and the parts have damaged the top of
the piston or scored the cylinders, replace the
complete compressor.
If compressor is not damaged, clean the cylinder
block top and cylinder head thoroughly. Be sure
to remove all shreds left from old gaskets. Install
the cylinder head bolts in the head. Place a piece
of cardboard over the bolt heads and turn assem- Figure 13—Puller Installed (Tool C-3473)
MyMopar.com
55x169 55 x l 57 ¿,
Figure 14—Removing Seal Bellows Figure 15 — Removing Bearing End Plate
Figure 14. When bellows have compressed far seated in the shaft groove. Otherwise, it may slip
enough to clear the snap ring retainer, remove out and result in a leaky seal. Remove puller.
snap ring with snap ring pliers.
Install pulley, lining up key and key way. Push
Change puller screw in center of puller, Figure assembly over shaft and install washer and self-
15. Turn in on center screw and remove compres- locking bolt. Tighten bolt to 15 to 20 foot-pounds
sor front bearing end plate and seal assembly. torque. Back-seat both service valves and bleed
Remove puller from end plate and seal assembly. air from compressor. Tighten oil filler plug. Install
Remove puller from end plate. Remove carbon seal protective caps and test for leaks.
and "O" ring from bearing end plate.
INSTALLATION OF SEAL
NOTE
Coat new bearing end plate gasket and large
"O" ring with refrigerant oil. Install "O" ring in When new seals are first installed leaks are
front bearing end plate. Install gasket, end plate more noticeable than after system has been
and two long screws at opposite sides of end plate. in operation for a while and parts are worn
Be sure that the oil pocket is UP. Start end plate in.
squarely and tighten screws evenly finger tight.
Install puller, as shown in Figure 13. While holding
compressor shaft with screw driver, turn puller
screw to pull bearing end plate into compressor
housing, Figure 16. Remove puller and install end
plate screws. Tighten screws evenly to 15 to 20
foot-pounds torque.
Coat carbon seal with refrigerant oil and place
over shaft, positioning tangs on carbon in the
recesses in the bearing end plate. Lubricate "O"
rings in bellows with refrigerant oil and place
bellows and snap ring over compressor shaft.
Install puller, as shown in Figure 13. Compress
bellows with puller and, at same time rotate the
bellows assembly to insure proper alignment. This
will prevent pinching "O" ring which would result
in a leaky seal. Install snap ring retainer when
bellows clear groove in shaft. Remove puller.
Check the snap ring to be positive that it is securely Figure 16—Installing Bearing End Plate
MyMopar.com
EVAPORATOR UNIT
r\ 56 PI 53
Figure 17—Evaporator Unit
8. EXPANSION VALVE CAUTION

REMOVAL Protect trim and finish against oil or refrig-
erant escaping from valve body when re-
To remove the valve for cleaning or replacement moved. Use extreme care not to damage
it is first necessary to discharge the system. Re- tubing fìares. Always use two wrenches. SEAL
move the expansion valve shield plate. Loosen the OR PLUG ALL openings to system, immediately,
expansion valve mounting clip from the distributor if valve was removed for cleaning. INSTALL
head flared nut. Disconnect the liquid tube and the new valve, immediately, if valve was removed
equalizer tube, Figure 17. Disconnect the expansion for replacement. This will prevent dirt and
valve to distributor flared connection and remove moisture from entering the system.
expansion valve.
If valve is to be reinstalled, remove the liquid INSTALLATION

tube inlet fitting from the valve body. The inlet
fitting contains the fine mesh screen. Wash ac- Connect the expansion valve to distributor flare
cumulation of any substance from the screen with connection and install retaining clip. Connect the
carbon tetrachloride and blow dry with dry com- liquid tube and the equalizer tube. Using two
pressed air. Remove the protective cap from the wrenches, tighten the flared nuts. Evacuate and
valve spring and remove the valve assembly from charge the system. Be sure to test for leaks after
partial charge. Replace expansion valve shield.
the valve body. Wash valve parts with carbon
tetrachloride, blow dry with dry compressed air The Air Conditioning Expansion Valve is non-
and reassemble valve. adjustable.
MyMopar.com
9. CONDENSER Discharge system, raise car on hoist. Disconnect

flared connections at both ends of receiver. Re-
REMOVAL move attaching bolt nuts and remove receiver.
Cap ends of receiver immediately, if unit is to be
Discharge system. Disconnect discharge and used again. Leave caps on connectors until ready
by-pass tubes from discharge valve and liquid to make connections when installed.
line to receiver and cap tubes. Remove hood lock
plate and support bracket. Remove four bolts that INSTALLATION
attach condenser brackets to radiator support and
lift condenser from car. Position receiver in place, install bolts and nuts
and tighten securely. Remove caps and connect
flared connector nuts and tighten securely. Charge
INSTALLATION system with partial charge and test for leaks.
Correct any leaks and evacuate system. Then,
Position condenser and install four attaching
charge with four pounds of Freon 12.
bolts in condenser brackets to radiator support.
Tighten bolts to 20 foot-pounds torque. Remove
caps from tubes (and condenser if so equipped). 12. EVAPORATOR FILTER
Connect condenser to receiver tube flared con-
nection. Connect discharge and by-pass tubes to The filter should be replaced whenever it be-
discharge valve. Charge system with partial comes dirty. This would normally be at the time
charge and test for leaks. Correct any leaks, when bugs, dirt, and etc., are removed from the
evacuate system, and charge with four pounds radiator and condenser. To replace the filter, re-
of Freon 12, and test system operation. move the evaporator cover, lift out old filter, place
new one in top of evaporator housing and replace
cover.
10. RECEIVER FUSIBLE PLUG
Where it is found necessary to replace the fusi- 13. EVAPORATOR
ble plug in the receiver (due to it having been
damaged by a blow, or because of melting from REMOVAL
temperature exceeding 210 degrees to 214 degrees Discharge the system. Remove spare tire from
F.), it is possible to do so without removing the the luggage compartment. Remove the screws
receiver. from the air return inlet grille at center of package
Remove the old fusible plug after discharging shelf behind rear seat.
system. Apply refrigerant thread sealer to threads Loosen screws clamping outlet tube straps at
of a new plug and install plug in receiver. Tighten top and bottom of outlet tubes at each end of
to 20 foot-pounds torque. Never replace a damaged evaporator and remove outlet tubes. Pull air return
fusible plug with a solid plug. Evacuate system, sleeve down from air return screen flange.
then charge with four pounds of Freon 12.
Remove screws attaching evaporator support
brackets to floor pan. Disconnect blowers and
11. RECEIVER STRAINER-DRIER motors and thermal switch electrical lead wires.
Where the receiver strainer-drier unit is found Raise car from floor and disconnect the suction,
to be clogged when tested, or where metal particles hot gas by-pass and liquid hoses from refrigerant
are found in this system, it is necessary to replace tubes at right front of rear axle. Tag the tubes for
the receiver strainer-drier assembly. identification. Cap hoses and tubes to prevent
entrance of dirt and (or) moisture.
Remove evaporator drain tube dust seals from
CAUTION evaporator drain tubes at lower side of floor pan.
Remove drain tube to floor pan attaching nuts and
Protect eyes with goggles or glasses when
washers.
disconnecting receiver flare connections to pre-
vent any drops of liquid refrigerant from drop- Lower car to floor and position two pieces of
ping into the eyes when connections are two-by-four in such a manner that when the
broken. evaporator is lifted, the two-by-fours can be slid
under the evaporator at each end.
MyMopar.com
TO
•SOLENOID TO STARTER AND IGNITION
VALVE 'SWITCH ACCESSORY TERMINAL
TO
•GREEN* 'LEFT REAR
MOTOR
NO. 1-15 AMP. C.B.-1955
NO. 1-8 AMP. C.B.-1956
TO IGNITION
SWITCH
TEMPERATURE
BLACK TO
CONTROL SWITCH >
SOLENOID
(LATER TYPE)
FOR CLUTCH IF FOR CLUTCH IF

FIELD INSTALLED FIELD INSTALLED
- ORANGE
TO
• BLACK •RIGHT REAR TEMPERATURE
MOTOR CONTROL SWITCH
NO. 2-15 AMP. C.B.-1955
NO. 2-8 AMP. C.B.-1956 (1955 MODELS)
•TO THERMAL SWITCH

TERMINAL BLOCK
•YELLOW- 56P\55
Figure 18 — Wiring Diagram
Pull the refrigerant hoses up through hole in 14. BLOWERS AND MOTORS
floor pan. (It may be necessary to pry the seal
from the floor pan.) Remove evaporator from The blowers are located at each end of the
luggage compartment. evaporator. Both motors rotate clockwise when
viewed from the outer end of the motor. The blower
INSTALLATION
fans are the same and may be used in either
blower.
Set the evaporator assembly on the two-by-
fours in the luggage compartment and slide evapo- REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
rator forward. Guide the refrigerant hoses through Disconnect the electrical leads. Remove the three
the hole in the floor pan. Remove the two-by-fours attaching cap screws and lift the motor, flange and
while lowering the evaporator and guide the drain fan assembly from the blower housing. When
tubes through the holes in the floor pan. Make sure installing the assembly, insert the fan into the
grommets are in position on drain tubes before housing and hold the flange up against the hous-
setting assembly on floor pan. ing. Check the fan to see that it has the same
Install support bracket screws and connect elec- clearance from the housing at both ends. The fan
trical lead wires. Position air return inlet sleeve may be moved along the motor shaft by loosening
on inlet screen flange. Install outlet tubes and the Allen screw in the hub. Be sure screw is tight
tighten screws. Install screws through air return after adjustment. Install attaching screw and con-
grille, screen and sleeve. Raise car, uncap and nect electrical lead wires.
connect hoses to refrigerant tubes. Install washers
and attaching nuts on drain tubes. Install drain 15. CONTROL SWITCHES
and tube dust seals.
The blower control switch knobs are mounted
Lowei car and test operation of blower motors. one inside the other as shown in Figure 19. The
Charge system with a partial charge and test for larger, inner knob controls the left blower motor
leaks. Discharge and sweep system after correct- and the smaller, outer knob controls the right
ing any leaks. Then, charge system with four motor. Each switch has three positions (OFF, LOW
pounds of Freon 12 and test operation of system. speed and HIGH speed) when rotated clockwise.
MyMopar.com
BLOWER SWITCH 2. OPEN CIRCUIT—Test electrical circuit with

point to point voltage test. Repair or replace
necessary wire.
3. MOTOR WINDING — Check for open or

shorted windings.
4. CONTROL SWITCH—Test switch and resis-

tors with voltmeter or jumper wire. Replace faulty
switch or resistors.
5. LOOSE CONNECTIONS—Test circuit with

voltmeter for voltage drop. Clean and tighten all
loose connections.
TEMPERATURE SWITCH
6. MOTOR BURNED OUT—Check for cause of
Figure 19 — Control Switches failure.
7. ARMATURE SHORTED OR GROUNDED —

The blowers can be operated separately or Check cause of failure before replacing armature.
together or in various combinations as desired.
8. WORN OR STICKING BRUSHES—Turn and
The blower low and high speeds are made pos-
undercut armature to prevent further failure. Install
sible by resistors that are mounted on the back
new brushes making sure they are free in the brush
of the switch. In the high speed position, the re-
holders.
sistors are by-passed and the current flows direct
to the motors. In the low speed position, the cur-
rent flows through the resistors. Each resistor
BLOWERS AND COMPRESSOR OPERATING-
connects to an individual motor.
NO COOLING
The temperature control toggle switch is located
directly below the blower control knobs. This 1. REFRIGERANT LOW—Recharge system after
switch has three positions: OFF, COOL, AND testing for and repairing all leaks.
COLD. In the COOL position, the electrical circuit
to the by-pass valve is open. This allows hot gas 2. REFRIGERATION SYTEM RESTRICTED—Test
to flow from the compressor to the evaporator and strainer-drier. If strainer-drier is plugged, replace.
results in only partial cooling. Rotating the switch Test expansion valve. Inspect lines for kinks.
to the COLD position completes the circuit to the
by-pass solenoid. This energizes the solenoid and 3. COMPRESSOR VALVES NOT FUNCTION-
closes the by-pass valve. Closing the by-pass ING PROPERLY—Install manifold gauge set and
valve results in maximum cooling. check head pressure and valves.
ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS 4. EXPANSION VALVE NOT OPERATING —

Test expansion valve for proper super. Clean or
The voltage drop of the blower circuit from the replace valve.
battery to each blower motor should not exceed
.20 volt (blower switch set to highest speed and
the battery voltage at 6.0 to 6.2 1955 Models, 12 to BLOWERS OPERATING — PARTIAL COOLING
12.4 volts 1956 Models). See Figure 18.
1. REFRIGERANT LOW—Check sight glass for
indication of low refrigerant. Check for leaks and
16. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES charge system.
BLOWERS NOT OPERATING 2. EXPANSION VALVE NOT WORKING PROP-

J. CIRCUIT BREAKER—Test circuit breaker with ERLY—Test expansion valve for proper super heat.
jumper wire. Check for loose wires, shorts or a Clean or replace valve.
faulty switch or motor. (Continued on page 430)
MyMopar.com
4
00
GAUGE SET MANIFOLD

ASSEMBLY TOOL C~3354
VACUUM PUMP ASSEMBLY
THERMOMETER TOOL C · 3 3 7 2
CUPS C - 3 4 2 I
TEST HOSE LONG TEST HOSES SHORT (2)

TUBE BENDERS TOOL C-33óó TOOL C-33ó5
TOOL C-33ó2
FLARE NUT WRENCHES LEAK DETECTOR
TORCH C-3444
TOOL C-3358
TOOL C-3363
¯<
O
c
m
COMPRESSOR SEAL
— PULLER C~3473
Õ
m
RATCHET WRENCH
>
TUBE FLARÍNG
TOOL C-8Ô4
TUBE CUTTER
TOOL C~3478
FLARE REFACiNG
TOOL C-3367 THERMOMETER SET FREON WEIGHING
TOOL C-335Ó SCALE C-3429
FREON CYLINDER
ADAPTER C-3420
56P158
Figure 20—Special Tools
MyMopar.com
17. TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE RELATION CHART FOR FREON 12

TEMP. PRESSURE TEMP. PRESSURE TEMP. PRESSURE TEMP. PRESSURE
°F. F 12 °F. F 12 °F. F 12 °F. F 12
0 9.1 43 39.7 76 78.3 109 135.1

2 10.1 44 40.7 77 79.2 110 136.0
4 11.2 45 41.7 78 81.1 111 138.0
6 12.3 46 42.6 79 82.5 112 140.1
8 13.4 47 43.6 80 84.0 113 142.1
10 14.6 48 44.6 81 85.5 114 144.2
12 15.8 49 45.6 82 87.0 115 146.3
14 17.1 50 46.6 83 88.5 116 148.4
16 18.3 51 47.8 84 90.1 117 151.2

18 19.7 52 48.7 85 91.7 118 152.7
20 21.0 53 49.8 86 93.2 119 154.9
21 21.7 54 50.9 87 94.8 120 157.1
22 22.4 55 52.0 88 96.4 121 159.3
23 23.1 56 53.1 89 98.0 122 161.5
24 23.8 57 55.4 90 99.6 123 163.8
25 24.6 58 56.6 91 101.3 124 166.1
26 25.3 59 57.1 92 103.0 125 168.4

27 26.1 60 57.7 93 104.6 126 170.7
28 26.8 61 58.9 94 106.3 127 173.1
29 27.6 62 60.0 95 108.1 128 175.4
30 28.4 63 61.3 96 109.8 129 177.8
31 29.2 64 62.5 97 111.5 130 180.2
32 30.0 65 63.7 98 113.3 131 182.6
33 30.9 66 64.9 99 115.1 132 185.1
34 31.7 67 66.2 100 116.9 133 187.6

35 32.5 68 67.5 101 118.8 134 190.1
36 33.4 69 68.8 102 120.6 135 192.6
37 34.3 70 70.1 103 122.4 136 195.2
38 35.1 71 71.4 104 124.3 137 197.8
39 36.0 72 72.8 105 126.2 138 200.0
40 36.9 73 74.2 106 128.1 139 202.9
41 37.9 74 75.5 107 130.0 140 205.5
42 38.8 75 76.9 108 132.1
MyMopar.com
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE 3. CONDENSER PLUGGED—Clean with warm

water and compressed air applied from side next
(Continued from page 427) to engine. Remove bug screens.
3. COMPRESSOR OPERATING ABOVE NOR- 4. EXPANSION VALVE SUPER HEAT SETTING
MAL PRESSURE—Install manifold gauge set and INCORRECT—Install manifold gauge set and ther-
make complete test. mometer and adjust super heat setting. If valve is
faulty, replace.
4. COMPRESSOR VALVES NOT OPERATING
PROPERLY—Check compressor head pressure and 5. COMPRESSOR VALVES—Check compressor
valves. Replace valves if faulty. head pressure and valves. Replace valves if
faulty.
5. RESTRICTED CONDENSER, RECEIVER OR
DISCHARGE LINE—Inspect condenser for kinks or HIGH HEAD PRESSURE—SUCTION PRESSURE O.K.
obstruction. Clean lines with air. Repair or replace
kinked or distorted line. J. AIR IN SYSTEM—Open manifold gauge dis-
charge pressure valve slightly and leave open for
6. THERMAL SWITCH OR SOLENOID VALVE 10 seconds to purge air. Close valve, start engine
INOPERATIVE—Install test light and check ther- and recheck gauge pressure at 1200 r.p.m.
mal switch and solenoid valve. 2. TOO MUCH REFRIGERANT—Operate engine
7. AIR PASSAGES THROUGH CONDENSER at 1200 r.p.m. with blower switch turned to high.
BLOCKED BY BUGS, DIRT, MUD OR BY BUG Discharge freon slowly through manifold gauge
SCREEN—Check for cause of obstruction. Clean center fitting until bubbles appear in sight glass.
with warm water and compressed air applied from Then charge with freon 12.
side next to engine. Remove bug screens.
LOW SUCTION PRESSURE—HEAD PRESSURE O.K.
8. IMPROPER REFRIGERANT—-Install manifold
J. BLOWERS NOT OPERATING—Check electri-
gauge set. Check temperature-pressure relation
cal circuit for continuity. Replace motor if faulty.
of refrigerant. See page 429.
2. STRAINER-DRIER OR LINE PARTIALLY
LOW SUCTION PRESSURE AND LOW PLUGGED—Check strainer-drier or line and re-
HEAD PRESSURE place if necessary.
3. EXPANSION VALVE SUPER HEAT SETTING
J. LOW ON REFRIGERANT—Check for leaks. TOO MUCH—Install manifold gauge set and ther-
After leaks have been corrected, recharge system. mometer and adjust super heat setting. If valve is
Recheck for leaks. faulty, replace.
2. STRAINER-DRIER PLUGGED—Check strainer- 4. EVAPORATOR RESTRICTION—Check top of
drier for proper operation, if faulty, replace. evaporator coil for obstruction.
MyMopar.com
431
SECTION XXI
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

Page
Recommended Lubricants 434
Mileage Maintenance Schedule 436
1. Lubrication 431
2. Engine Oil 431
3. Lubrication Intervals 433
4. Seasonal Care and Preparation 438
5. Storage Precautions 439
6. Oilite Bearings 439
7. Care of Paint, Chrome and Upholstery 439
1. LUBRICATION
IMPORTANT
Modern driving conditions—numerous stops and
starts in city traffic and continuous high road Do not overfill crankcase as aeration will
speeds on country highways—place exacting per- cause the hydraulic tappets to become noisy.
formance demands upon the precision-fitted parts
of the Plymouth car. Thus, timely lubrications, oil
changes and seasonal maintenance are very im-
portant subjects for consideration by both service 2. ENGINE OIL
men and Plymouth owners.
OIL CHANGE
Complete Plymouth lubrication recommenda-
tions appear in detail in the Lubrication Chart, on Under "normal" driving conditions, the engine
page 441. Information provided in this Chart in- oil should be changed at least every 2,500 to 3,000
cludes: Types and grades of lubricants required; miles, on cars equipped with PowerFlow 6 engine.
frequencies of application; lubrication points, and If car is equipped with Hy-Fire V-8 engine the oil
capacities of the units. change interval may be extended to a maximum
of 5,000 miles.
ENGINE OIL Most cars are driven under normal conditions.
OIL LEVEL—It is considered a good practice to When considering oil change recommendations,
check the oil level in the crankcase whenever the
car is refueled and while the engine is warm.
When checking the oil level, make sure the car is
level. If the oil level is checked immediately after
the car has been driven, some oil will remain in
the oil passageways, and the level will not be as HY-FIRE V 8
high as it will be after the car has been allowed
to stand a short time.
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR DIP STICK—Two types
of dipsticks are used, but both have the same
markings. See Figure 1.
If the oil level on the dipstick is between the POWERFLOW 6
"add oil" mark and the "full mark," it is not neces-
sary to add oil. If the oil level is at or slightly
below the "add oil" mark, add only one quart
of oil. Figure 1 — Oil Level Indicator Dip Sticks
MyMopar.com
the conditions under which the car is operated

should be taken into consideration. NOTE
In unusual operation, water and other undesira- When seasonal temperatures rise, or when
ble compounds or some unburned fuel may collect a car is to be driven into an area where higher
in the oil. These tend to reduce the lubricating atmospheric temperatures will be encountered,
qualities of the engine oil. The Plymouth crank- always use the recommended grade of engine
case ventilating system expels (in vapor form) a oil for the higher temperatures.
large amount of these impurities. But, enough may
remain to make it advisable to change the engine
oil at more frequent intervals. SAE 5-W engine oil is recommended for sub-
zero winter temperatures that remain lower than
EXTREMELY DUSTY OR SANDY AREAS— 10 degrees below zero.
When a car is driven principally on dirt or gravel
roads, more frequent oil changes may be neces-
sary. This practice will help protect vital engine CAUTION
parts against possible damage by sand or abra-
sive particles. Do not dilute SAE 5-W engine oil. Dilution of
SAE 5-W engine oil with kerosene or with trade
COLD WEATHER OPERATION—In cold weath- name diluents, as is the practice with SAE 10-W
er, when the car is driven on short runs and at engine oil in order to secure better starting in
slow speeds, the oil may need to be changed more cold weather, will lower its viscosity below that
frequently. Under such operating conditions, the required for adequate lubrication.
engine temperature does not rise high enough to
prevent the formation of water in the crankcase
resulting in the formation of sludge. To help off- NEW CARS—Engine oil installed in the car when
set this condition, a car should be driven occasion- manufactured should not be removed for first 1000
ally at speeds above 35 miles per hour. This will miles of initial car operation. If necessary to add
raise the engine temperature and help the crank- oil, use a grade of oil in keeping with the tempera-
case ventilating system expel undesirable ele- tures to be encountered.
ments.
TYPES OF ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS Automobile operation has been classified into
Temperature Recommended Multi-Grade three types of service. This classification is devised
Anticipated Viscosity No. Options to provide you with additional guidance when
selecting engine oil for your Plymouth.
Above + 32° F SAE 30 SAE 20W-40
SAE 10W-30 The type of service for which an engine oil is
intended is usually designated by the letters MS,
Above + 10°F SAE 2OW... .SAE 20W-40 MM, or ML on the container. It is important to
SAE 10W-30 remember that this system is to be used in addi-
Above — 10° F SAE 10W... .SAE 10W-30 tion to selecting the proper grade of oil for your
SAE 5W-20 car, by the SAE grade numbers shown in table at
Below — 10° F SAE 5W... .SAE 5W-20 left which indicate the viscosity of oil required.
The three types of driving conditions and the
SAE 30 engine oil is recommended as a general letter designation will help you select the correct
summer oil. This oil may also be used during the type of oil for your particular driving needs.
winter months if temperatures do not fall below
freezing (32° F.) SERVICE MS:
SAE 20-W engine oil is recommended for use in 1. High speed highway driving where the oil
localities where only very mild weather conditions becomes unusually hot, such as summer vaca-
are encountered—such as where temperatures are tion trips.
not lower than 10 degrees above zero. 2. Heavy load operation, such as towing house
SAE 10-W engine oil is recommended as a gen- trailers in hilly country.
eral winter oil for temperatures as low as 10 de- 3. Driving in areas where temperatures below
grees below zero. 0° F. are encountered for extended periods.
MyMopar.com
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 433
4. Driving in moderately cold climates where and avoids sustained high speeds in all gears until
most of the operation consists of short neighbor- sufficient "breaking-in" mileage has been covered.
hood trips.
Here is a suggested "breaking-in" plan:
SERVICE MM: THE FIRST 300 MILES—During this period, the
1. Operation at high speed for short periods of car should be driven at moderate speeds when
time. accelerating in first and second and while cruising
in high. Watch the temperature and oil pressure
2. Long trips at moderate speeds and summer
gauges or lights closely. Speeds up to 50 miles
temperatures.
an hour in high gear will give the engine and the
3. Operation in moderately cold air tempera- other units a chance to "run-in" for smooth eco-
tures where frequent long trips, as well as short nomical performance.
trips, are included.
After 300 miles of driving, occasional bursts of
SERVICE ML: higher speed are not only permissible but desir-
able, provided of course, you comply with local
1. Operation at moderate speeds where the and state traffic laws. The car should not be oper-
majority of the trips are more than ten miles and ated at consistently high speeds until it has been
where no extreme air temperatures are encoun- driven at least 500 miles.
tered.
OIL PRESSURE
3. LUBRICATION INTERVALS
Oil pressure should be 40 to 60 pounds at speeds With a planned schedule of periodical lubrica-
above 30 miles per hour. At engine idling speeds, tion, the Plymouth car will provide long satisfac-
the oil pressure will vary—depending upon tem- tory service. Precision-fitted parts will be assured
perature and the viscosity of the oil. proper lubrication and will be afforded better pro-
tection against the entry of dust, dirt and water.
The Plymouth Lubrication Recommendations are
IMPORTANT
divided into three main groups: once a month, or
Any pressure indicating oil flow at engine every 1,000 miles; once a year, or every 10,000
idle speed is satisfactory, providing the oil miles, and every two years, or every 20,000 miles.
pressure rises to normal above 30 miles per
hour, when the engine is at normal operating
These frequencies are based on "normal" opera-
temperature.
tion—more frequent lubrication is advisable if the
car is operated on gravel or dusty roads.
ONCE A MONTH, OR EVERY 1,000 MILES

1000 MILE OIL CHANGE
When the first 1000 miles of new car operation CARBURETOR ÄIR CLEANER—The air cleaner
ends, drain the crankcase when the engine is is designed to provide maximum protection for the
warm. Refill with oil of the proper viscosity (see engine against the entry of dirt, dust and abrasive
"Engine Oil Recommendations"), according to the particles. It is 98.5% effective when kept clean and
anticipated atmospheric temperature. filled to the proper level. Inspect the air cleaner
every time the car is lubricated. If dirt has reached
OIL FILTER the lower offset in the reservoir, or if sump is more
than ½ full of dirt and sludge, clean and refill with
Install a new oil filter or cartridge every 5,000 engine oil. If the car is driven in extremely dusty
miles to coincide with an oil change. areas, the air cleaner should be examined more
In dusty areas it may be necessary to change often and serviced as necessary. Check it once a
the filter more frequently. day under exceptionally sandy or dusty conditions.
TO SERVICE AIR CLEANER (Refer to Figure 2)—
"BREAKING¯IN" A NEW ENGINE
Remove cover and filter element and wash in clean
There are many methods for "breaking-in" the kerosene. Remove support bracket screw and
engine of a new car, or a new or reconditioned loosen clamp screw at bottom of air cleaner Re-
engine. Any method is advantageous that assures move air cleaner base from carburetor. Empty
the proper "running-in" of all vital engine parts dirty oil from reservoir and clean out the sump.
MyMopar.com
TYPES OF LUBRICANTS RECOMMENDED
FREQUENCY UNIT OR PART LUBRICANT REQUIRED
* Lubricant Fittings Chassis Lubricant
Water Pump Fitting (1) Water Pump Grease
* Door Latches and Hinges Dripless Penetrating Oil
* Door Strikers and Rotors Door Ease
* Distributor Oil Cup SAE10W Engine Oil
* Generator SAE 10W Engine Oil
† Steering Gear—conventional SAE 90 Fluid Gear Lubricant
† Power Steering Gear and Reservoir Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A"
† Carburetor Air Cleaner Summer—SAE 50 Engine Oil
Winter —SAE 20 Engine Oil
† Crankcase Outlet Air Cleaner SAE 50 Engine Oil
† Oil Filler Pipe Cap Air Cleaner SAE 50 Engine Oil
O Distributor 2 or 3 Drops of Light Engine Oil in Felt Wick-
ing. Apply Cam Lubricant to Bumper Block
O Door Lock Cylinders Lubriplate
o Speedometer Head Speedometer Oil m
o Speedometer Cable Speedometer Cable Lubricant
o Front Wheel Bearings Short Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease—Medium
o Gearshift Remote Control Rod End ...... Lubriplate
• Rear Wheel Bearings Short Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease—Medium
*
*
*
Transmission—Standard Three-Speed
PowerFlite Transmission
Overd rive
SAE 80 Fluid Gear Lubricant
Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type "A"
SAE 80 Fluid Gear Lubricant
¡
* Rear Axle Above - 1 0 ° F—SAE 90 Hypo¡d Gear Lubricant
Below - 1 0 ° F—SAE 80 Hypoid Gear Lubricant
* Universal Joints Heavy Fiber Universal Joint Grease
CHASSIS LUBRICANT FITTINGS
KEY TO FREQUENCY Power- Hy-F¡re
Flow 6 V-8
†—Inspect every 1,000 miles, or once a month, and service as required.
With PowerFlite
*—Every 1,000 miles, or once a month. Transmission 21 23
O—Every 10,000 miles, or once a year. With Standard
*—Every 20,000 miles, or every two years. Transmission
Or Overdrive 23 25
Points requiring no lubrication—clutch release bearing, carburetor linkage, automatic choke, rea r springs, starter bearings, foot accelerator, rubber
bushings. V-8 Water Pumps without fitting (Sealed Ball Bearing requires no lubrication).
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE—Extreme Pressure Hypoid Gear

Lubricant. For temperatures above 10 degrees
AIR STREAM below zero, use SAE 90. For sub-zero temperatures
that remain lower than 10 degrees below" zero, use
SAE 80. Maintain lubricant level at bottom of filler
plug hole. Add recommended lubricant as neces-
sary. Do not overfill. Inspect rear axle air vent on
upper side of axle housing and make sure it is free
SILENCING from dust and dirt. If vent is obstructed, pressure
CHAMBER may build up in housing and lubricant may be
forced out past the grease seals onto the brake
55P1284
linings.
TRANSMISSION AND OVERDRIVE—SAE 80-
Fluid Gear Lubricant (summer and winter). Main-
Figure 2 — Carburetor Air Cleaner
tain lubricant level at bottom of filler plug hole.
Add recommended lubricant as necessary. Do not
Install air cleaner base making certain gasket overfill.
is in place on carburetor flange. Fill air cleaner POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION—Automatic
reservoir to indicate level with one pint of SAE Transmission Fluid. Type A. Check and add if
50 engine oil for temperatures above freezing necessary. See page 437.
(-f 32 °F), or with the same amount of SAE 20
engine oil for temperatures below freezing. Install DOOR HINGES AND LATCHES, LUGGAGE
filter element and cover. COMPARTMENT LATCH, HOOD HINGES AND
OIL FILTER PIPE CAP: OUTLET PIPE AIR LATCH, AND FRONT SEAT MECHANISM—Drip-
CLEANER—Wash in kerosene, dry and saturate less Penetrating Oil.
with SAE 50 engine oil. DOOR STRIKER PLATES, DOVETAILS, ROTOR
LUBRICANT FITTINGS—See lubrication chart WHEEL—Door Ease, or Stainless Stick Lubricant.
page 441, for location and number of fittings. DISTRIBUTORS or 10 drops Light Engine Oil
Before lubricating, remove dirt from all lubricant —1 oil cup.
fittings. Replace fittings that are damaged or miss-
GENERATOR—5 or 10 drops SAE 10-W Engine
ing. Lubricate thoroughly, forcing all old lubricant,
dirt and water from bearing surfaces. Oil—2 oil cups.
WATER PUMP—Water Pump Grease Only.

1 lubricant fitting. Apply until grease is visible on ONCE A YEAR OR EVERY 10,000 MILES
groove between fan pulley hub and front bushing.
DOOR LOCK CYLINDERS—Lubriplate or similar
lubricant. Use sparingly.
NOTE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS—Short Fiber Wheel
V-8 Water pump without fittings are sealed Bearing Grease—Medium. New lubricant should
ball bearing type which require no lubrication. never be added to old grease in the front wheel
bearings. Remove old lubricant. Clean and repack
with bearing packing tool to force clean lubricant
STEERING GEAR—S AE 90 Fluid Gear Lubricant. through bearing. Coat inner surface of hub with
Inspect level, replenish when lubricant is below 2-1/2 ounces of grease.
filler plug hole. (In extremely cold weather, dilute
this lubricant with small amount of No. 10-W en- GEARSHIFT REMOTE CONTROL—GEARSHIFT
gine oil to ease steering.) Do not use pressure gun. ROD END—Chassis Lubricant, one fitting.
POWER STEERING—Automatic Transmission SPEEDOMETER — Speedometer Oil. Oil tube

Fluid Type A—Check fluid level in reservoir. If with wick on housing near cable flange, unscrew
fluid is below top of filter, add fluid to cover filter. oil tube. Saturate wick with lubricant and replace.
MyMopar.com
PLYMOUTH MILEAGE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
MILEAGE INTERVALS IN THOUSANDS
MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDED
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Safety Inspection and Chassis Lubrication * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Lubricate Body (Hinges, Locks, Latches, Door Striker
Plates and Rotors) · * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Check Lubricant Level—Steering, Transmission, Overdrive,
Rear Axle * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Inspect Carburetor Air Cleaner * * * * * * * * * * *
Inspect Oil Filler Cap and Outlet Pipe Air Cleaners * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Check Brake Fluid Level * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Lubricate Generator and Distributor * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Change Engine Oil —Miles
Rotate Tires
As recommended—See Page 431
o o
¡
Check Brake Adjustment • • • • • in
• m
Check Clutch Adjustment • • • •
Engine Tune-up (Minor) • • •
Engine Tune-up (Major) •
Replace Oil Filter ft %
Repack Front Wheel Bearings o O
>
Lubricate Speedometer and Cable o o
Check Fan Belt Adjustment o o
Check Wheel Alignment o o
Check Headlight Aiming o o
Change Transmission Lubricant *
Change PowerFlite Transmission Lubricant *
Change Overdrive Transmission Lubricant *
Repack Universal Joints *
Change Rear Axle Lubricant *
Lubricate Rear Wheel Bearings *
*These maintenance recommendations are for the average driving conditions. Please read page 431.
MyMopar.com
SPEEDOMETER CABLE—Speedometer Cable PARTS NOT TO BE LUBRICATED

Lubricant. Disconnect cable at instrument panel. Rubber Parts—Sway eliminator bar bushings,
Remove shaft. Coat shaft with recommended lubri- shock absorber mountings, and rear spring
cant and install. shackle bushings are designed to operate without
DISTRIBUTOR—Remove rotor and apply two lubrication. Lubricating these parts will cause them
or three drops of light engine oil in felt wicking. to slip and result in rapid wear.
Apply Cam Lubricant to bumper block.
Automatic Choke and Carburetor Linkage —
Lubrication will attract dust and dirt causing pre-
CAUTION mature wear.
Keep lubricants away from breaker points.
POWERFLITE—DRAIN AND REFILLING
LUBRICANT CHANGE
EVERY 20,000 MILES, OR EVERY TWO YEARS
The transmission and torque converter should
REAR AXLE—Extreme Pressure Hypoid Gear be drained every 20,000 miles.
Lubricant. For temperatures above 10 degrees be-
low zero, use SAE 90. For sub-zero temperatures
that remain lower than 10 degrees below zero, use CAUTION
SAE 80. Drain and refill with recommended lubri- If engine has been operated, use care when
cant. Maintain lubricant level at bottom of filler draining fluid from torque converter and trans-
plug hole. Do not overfill. mission to prevent possible oil burns.
TRANSMISSION AND OVERDRIVE—SAE 80—
Fluid Gear Lubricant (Summer and Winter). Drain
and refill with 2-3/4 pts. (3-1/2 pts. if equipped with Remove the transmission drain plug and allow
overdrive.) Do not overfill. Keep lubricant level at transmission to drain. Remove the access plate at
bottom of filler plug hole. bottom of torque converter housing and rotate
torque converter until torque converter drain plugs
POWERFLITE—Automatic Transmission Fluid, are accessible as shown in Figure 3. Remove plugs
Type "A." Drain and refill. and drain fluid. Tighten torque converter drain
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS—Short Fiber Wheel plugs to 10 foot pounds. Tighten the transmission
Bearing Grease—Medium. Remove plugs in rear oil pan drain plug to 20 to 25 foot pounds.
side of axle housing near brake support plates and Pour seven quarts of transmission fluid type "A"
lubricate with 1/2 ounce of recommended lubri- into filler tube, See Figure 4. Apply parking brake
cant, using low pressure gun. Replace plug. Do and place panel control in Neutral position. Start
not over-lubricate. If a relief plug is used on grease engine and run at idle speed for about two minutes.
gun, the exact required amount of lubricant can be Add fluid to bring level to "low" mark.
applied. Over-lubrication may result in grease
leaking past the seals onto brake linings.
UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Ball and Trunnion Type)—
Heavy Fiber Universal Joint Grease. Disassemble
and inspect all parts. Clean and repack with
recommended grease, using 1-1/4 ounces in each
joint and reassemble. Use new lock washers.
Tighten flange bolts securely to prevent grease
leaking across face of gasket. Inspect dust covers
periodically and replace if damaged. See page 239
for d\:st cover installation procedure.
TRANSMISSION OIL
It is not necessary to remove the trunnion pin PAN DRAiN PLUG
unless it is to be replaced. The pin is a tight press
fit in the shaft. It must be installed so that each end
protrudes an equal distance with a variation of
not more than .006 in. Special jig and locating
fixture, C-552, may be used to install trunnion pin. Figure 3 — Transmission Oil Pan and Torque
See Page 239. Converter Drain Plugs
MyMopar.com
engine and allow it to run for a short time to circu-

late the fluid in the system. While the engine is
idling, turn the steering wheel back and forth sev-
eral times from extreme right to left in order to let
any remaining air out of the system. Check the
fluid level in the reservoir and add fluid if needed
to cover filter. The total capacity is 3-1/2 pints.
4. SEASONAL CARE AND

PREPARATION
In the spring and fall, cars should be prepared
for the approaching change in temperature condi-
tions, to maintain maximum performance and to
55PI285 avoid unnecessary service.
Figure 4 — PowerFlite Filler Tube A Safety Inspection of all parts of the car at
Seasonal Preparation time may indicate the need
for the adjustment of brakes, replacement of brake
lining, adjustment of the steering mechanism or
CAUTION replacement of parts necessary for the safe opera-
tion of the car. A Safety Inspection carefully per-
Use care when replacing fluid; make certain
formed will promote safe car operation on the
that container is clean and free of lint, insects,
streets and highways.
hair or other impurities.
BATTERY
CHECKING LUBRICANT LEVEL—Shift panel con- The electrolyte level in the battery should be
trol through all positions, pausing a few seconds maintained above the plates. Add pure distilled
in each position and back to Neutral. Level should water once or twice a month to bring the level up.
be at "L" mark on dipstick if car is cold (not been See page 95.
driven). If car is warm (been driven 10 miles or
more), level should be at "F" mark. Add fluid to
COOLING SYSTEM
bring to proper mark. Do not overfill—the level
rises as oil warms up. Use only Automatic Trans- At the approach of freezing weather, use a suit-
mission Fluid, Type A. able anti-freeze solution in the cooling system.
A car equipped with PowerFlite can be towed When the cold season is past, drain the cooling
safely for short distances with the transmission in system and add rust resistor when refilling cooling
Neutral. The selector lever should be tied at the system with fresh water. This will protect the
selection lever gate to lock the transmission in system against corrosion during warm weather
Neutral. If a car is to be towed for distances over driving.
100 miles, remove the propeller shaft at the dif- COOLANT LEVEL—Do not add water or anti-
ferential. freeze to the radiator when the system is over-
heated. Fill to within approximately 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
POWER STEERING—DRAIN AND REFILLING inches below bottom of filler neck. This will tend
Clean the outside of the reservoir and remove to prevent loss of coolant through the overflow
the cover. Disconnect the high pressure (small) pipe. Tighten hose connections periodically and
hose at the steering housing. Place the hose in a maintain the proper amount of coolant in the
container. Hold the hose and have someone start system at all times.
the engine. Allow the engine to idle until all the
DRAINING—Drain and flush cooling system
fluid is pumped from the system. Do not run engine
twice a year, in spring and fall. There is one drain
above idle speed. When the fluid starts to show
cock on radiator. There are two drain cocks on
great quantities of air bubbles, stop the engine.
HyFire 8 cylinder blocks, and one drain plug on
Reconnect the high pressure hose and refill the PowerFlow 6 cylinder block. The heater inlet hose
reservoir slightly higher than normal. Use Auto- must be disconnected to completely drain the
matic Transmission Fluid, Type "A". Restart the system.
MyMopar.com
ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTIONS—If the temperature Provide adequate ventilation while pouring the
drops below 32° F.f protect the cooling system with Rust Preventive Oil into the carburetor air intake
a good quality anti-freeze. See page 83. because considerable smoke will issue from the
tail pipe. Stop the engine after the oil has been
added.
CAUTION
Anti-freeie solutions containing sodium
chloride (common table salt), calcium chloride,
6. OILITE BEARINGS
or any inorganic salt, should never be used. "Oilite" bearings are "self-lubricating" and are
Water soluble organic products such as sugar, used in locations where lubrication is difficult to
honey, glucose, or any inorganic crystalline maintain. When "Oilite" bearings are subjected to
compounds, are not recommended. Mineral heat or pressure, oil comes to the bearing surfaces,
oils, such as kerosene or engine oil, may giving them a thin coating of lubricant which is
damage hose connections and other parts. adequate for lubrication.
In certain places where bearing loads are greater
5. STORAGE PRECAUTIONS and more constant, additional oil is required and
may be supplied through an oil cup or other suit-
PROTECTING ENGINES OF NEW CARS able fitting. This oil is absorbed by the "Oilite"
IN STORAGE bearing material.
The following precautions are recommended in REPLACEMENT — If bearing replacement is
the handling of new Plymouth cars which will not necessary, a new "Oilite" bearing of the same size
be delivered immediately to customers. These should be installed. An "Oilite" bearing should
practices will help prevent the rusting of valve not be reamed, filed, or otherwise cut to size. Cut-
guides and thus avoid "sticking" valves. ting tends to seal up the pores of the "Oilite" metal.
This prevents the seepage of oil to the surface.
INTERMITTENT DRIVING—When new cars are
However, bearings may be burnished to a final
to be driven infrequently from storage to sales loca-
"running" fit.
tions, or for short demonstrations, the oil around
the valve stems is removed. Corrosion may result MACHINING — If machining is necessary, use
due to the condensation of water in the valve the same method as that for cast bronze and apply
guides. To provide continuous protection against no coolant. For finishing surfaces where lubrica-
such corrosion, add one quart of Rust Preventive tion is necessary, use a sharp, tungsten-carbide
Oil to each five gallons of gasoline. tool bit (any shape except "dead-sharp"). Take a
very light cut — .002 to .004 inch on the diameter —
NOTE with fine feed and high speed. After machining,
soak the bearing for 20 minutes in a good grade of
Consult any reputable refiner who will be engine oil.
able to supply a Rust Preventive OH suitable
for use as recommended here for the protection
of new cars against the formation of rust on
7. CARE OF PAINT, CHROME
engine internal parts.
AND UPHOLSTERY
STORAGE OF CARS — If a car is to be stored CARE OF BODY FINISH

for more than two weeks, the following precautions
should be taken: WASHING — The metal surface is finished in
high gloss, baked enamel. Wash this surface regu-
Remove the carburetor air cleaner and run the larly with plenty of cold water — with the car
engine at a fast idle until normal operating tem- away from direct sunlight. "Dry washing" with a
perature (as indicated by the temperature indica- cloth or duster will cause hairline scratches on
tor on the instrument panel) is reached. Then, while finish.
the engine is running slowly, pour one pint of Rust
Preventive Oil through the carburetor air intake. Before washing, flood the finish with water to
Pour this liquid fast enough to slow down the speed loosen surface dirt. Wash with a soft cloth or
of the engine without causing it to stall. This opera- sponge and dry with towel or chamois. Use long
tion should take about one minute. sweeping strokes to avoid streaks and water spots.
MyMopar.com
WOOL CARPETING—Brush often with a whisk

CAUTION broom, or use a vacuum cleaner. The carpet will
shed some when new. Use any reputable carpet
Tar and road oil should be removed with a
cleaning material to remove stains.
tar remover. The use of gasoline containing
anti-knock compounds is not recommended.
REMOVAL OF STAINS FROM FABRICS
Any accidental chipping of the painted surface
should be repaired to prevent possible spread Some stains cannot be removed by ordinary
of rust. cleaning methods. In fact, some stains can be "set"
by the wrong cleaning method, making it impos-
sible to remove them. If the source of the stain is
POLISHING—If the finish has become oxidized not known, try cold water first. If that is not effec-
through neglect or exposure to severe climatic con- tive, try warm water, followed by the use of a good
ditions, it may be difficult to restore the original fabric cleaner.
luster by washing. Removal of natural oxidation Blood, nausea or urine should be sponged as
and accumulated surface film may require the use quickly as possible with clear cold water, followed
of a high-quality body polish. by washing with luke-warm soapy water. Rinse
with cold water.
UPHOLSTERY
Candy, fruit, ice cream or beverage stains can
TO CLEAN VINYL—Work up a thick suds from usually be removed with very hot water. (On
lukewarm water and neutral soap and apply to chocolate stains use lukewarm water.) Follow with
surface with a clean cloth or sponge. Clean off the use of fabric cleaner. In using hot water on a
suds with a damp soft cloth and wipe surface dry. stain, exercise care to prevent discoloration or
Do not clean with volatile-type fabric cleaners or shrinkage of the fabric.
solvents, since they may cause the material to
harden and crack. Lipstick, chewing gum, tar, grease and oil can
best be removed with a fabric cleaner, using a dull
TO CLEAN UPHOLSTERY—A firm whisk broom knife to scrape off any excess quantities. (For lip-
and vacuum cleaner used on the soiled area fol- stick stains, use a blotter until the spot is removed.)
lowed by the use of a foam-type cleaner applied
with a soft bristled brush will remove most normal CARE OF METAL TRIM
soil. The cleaner should be applied according to
the directions of the manufacturer. CHROME-PLATED PARTS—Discoloration and
rust on chrome-plated parts can be removed with
If volatile-type cleaner is used to remove spots, a chrome cleaner. After cleaning car, wipe the
be sure that it is not used in excessive amounts bumpers occasionally with a cloth to which a little
which might reach the foam rubber on cars so oil has been added.
equipped causing damage to the rubber.
STAINLESS-STEEL PARTS—Under certain con-
ditions, stainless steel surfaces may become dis-
FLOOR COVERING
colored or tarnished. Original luster can be re-
RUBBER MATS—Rubber composition carpeting stored and maintained with the use of a chrome
can be effectively cleaned with a whisk broom and cleaner and an occasional application of a paste
soapy water. wax.
MyMopar.com
MILEAGE KEY
1,000 MILES 10,000 MILES
OR ONCE A MONTH OR ONCE A YEAR
20,000 MILES
OR EVERY TWO YEARS
Chassis Lubricant MCL Cam lubricant
Pow·rFlow 6 with three-speed
ML Lubriplate
transmission 23 fittings
Pow·rFlow 6 with Pow·rFlit· SCL
transmission
Hy-Fir· V8 with three-speed
transmission 25 fittings
Hy-F¡r· V8 PowerFIHe SSL Stainless Stick Lubricant
23 fittings
UJG Universal Joint Grease
DPO Dr¡pless Penetrating Oil (Heavy Fibre)
Engine Oil WBG Wheel Bearing Grease
F6l Fluid Gear Lubricant (Short Fibre—Medium)
HGL Hypo¡d Gear Lubricant
ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS

Change PowerFlow 6 engine oil at least
once every 2,500 to 3,000 miles.
Change Hy-F¡re V8 engine oil at least once
every 5,000 miles.
If the anticipated atmospheric temperature will be:
Not lower than 432° F Use SAE 30
As low as +10° F Use SAE 20 W
As low as -10° F Use SAE 10 W
Below -10° F Use SAE 5 W
Multi-viscosity oils, such as SAE 10W-30, are satisfactory
for the grades indicated and included in the range designated.
SPECIAL ATTENTION
e Follow Plymouth Dealer Lubrication recommendations based on local driving conditions. Cars
operated principally on gravel or dusty roads may need more frequent lubrication attention.
Under these conditions, air cleaners should be cleaned more often-even once a day under
driving conditions.
• Change PowerFlite transmission lubricant every 20,000 miles. Use only automatic transmis-
sion fluid type A. Drain and add five (S) quarts fluid through transmission filler tube. Start
engine and add four (4) more quarts. Allow engine to idle for two minutes. Shift transm
through all ranges and return to neutral. Check level and add sufficient fluid to bring level to
low (I) mark on transmission dipstick.
heck level at 1,000 miles start engine and apply parking brake. Shift through all ranges
and stop at neutral. Check level. Add sufficient fluid to reach " I " mark if engine is cold. Add
fluid io "F" mark if engine has been driven at least 10 miles. Do not overfill-level rises as
oil warms up.
e D o not lubricate: Automatic choke, carburetor linkage, PowerFlite linkage, all rubber
bushings, pads and seals.
e Points that r e q u i r e no lubrication: Clutch release bearings, starting motor, rear

springs, accelerator pedal and sealed ball bearing type water pump.
Cooling System (pressure type), PowerFlow 6 Engine. . . .

(add 1 qt. if equipped with heater)
Cooling System (pressure type), Hy-F¡re V8 E n g i n e · | 2 7 7 ¢ u
(add 1 qt. if equipped
Oil (refill)
(add 1 qt. if filter is changed)
Fuel Tank
Rear Axle Differential IMPORTANT
Transmi Numbers on Mileage Key squares indi-
Transmission with Overdrive cate 1,000 mile service (inspection or
PowerFI¡te Automatic Transmission lubrication as shown) in addition to ser-
Coaxial Power Steering vice at regular interval.
B a t t e r y — A d d distilled water ¾ inch above plates. Inspect every 1,000
miles or once a month—more often during hot weather
MyMopar.com
442 ALPHABETICAL INDEX
A Clutch Release Lever Adjustment—Borg and Beck 76

Accelerator Pump System—Carburetor 147 Clutch Shaft Pilot Bushing 77
Air Conditioning 409 Clutch Torque Specifications 72
Ammeter 127 Coil and Condenser 121
Antenna 397 Coil Data and Specifications 118
Anti-Freeze Solutions 83 Coil—Test 121
Automatic Choke 143 Compressor—Air Conditioning 418
Axle Drive Shafts, Seals and Bearings 19 Condenser 425
Axle Shaft End Play 19 Condenser Data and Specifications 118
Condenser—Test 121
B Connecting Rod Alignment 195
Battery 95 Connecting Rods and Bearings 195
Battery—Cold Weather Care 97 Convertible Coupe—Top Operating Mechanism 384
Battery Data and Specifications 94 Convertible Top Adjustments 385
Battery Maintenance 96-438 Cooling System—Cleaning 81
Battery—Testing with Hydrometer 95 Cooling System Data and Specifications 80
Bearing Leak Detector Test 221 Cooling System—Protection 438
Blowers—Air Conditioning 426 Cooling System Torque Specifications 80
Body Finish—Care 383 Core Hole Plugs 187
Body Mounting Bolts 364 Cowl Ventilator. 390
Body—Sealing Compounds 359 Crankshaft 189
Body Sealing Procedures 388 Crankshaft Bearings 191
Body Refinishing Materials 393 Crankshaft Bearings Installation 193
Brake—Bleeding Hydraulic System 40 Crankshaft Bearings Installation Precautions 194
Brake Data and Specifications 32 Crankshaft—End Play 191
Brake—Hydraulic System 40 Crankshaft—Measuring Bearing Clearance 192
Brake Lining 37 Crankshaft—Regrinding 191
Brake Lining—Bonding to Shoe 37 Cylinder Block 185
Brake Lining—Grinding 38 Cylinder Block—Boring 185
Brake—Major Adjustment 35 Cylinder Block—Honing 185
Brake Master Cylinder 41 Cylinder Block—Reverse Flushing 82
Brake Master Cylinder—Push Rod Adjustment 43 Cylinder Head Installation 181
Brake—Minor Adjustment 33 Cylinder Head—Torquing Sequence 183
Brake Pedal Adjustment 58-67 Cylinder Walls—Cleaning 185
Brake—Push Rod Adjustment 43
Brake Shoes 38 D
Brake Shoes—Alignment 38 Deck Lid 373
Brake Shoes—Straightening 39 Defroster 399
Brake Torque Specifications 32 Diagnosis Procedures (See diagnosis procedures listings
Brake Tubing 43 following alphabetical index)
Brake—Wheel Cylinders 43 Differential and Carrier Adjustment 23
Bulb Chart 126 Differential and Carrier Assembly 21
Differential—Checking Tooth Contact 29
c Differential—Heavy Face Contact 29
Camber and King Pin Inclination 7 Differential—Heavy Flank Contact 29
Camshaft and Bearings 198 Differential—Heavy Heel Contact 30
Camshaft Bearing—Measuring Clearance 198 Differential—Heavy Toe Contact 29
Carburetor 137 Directional Signal 400
Carburetor—Adjustments 155 Distributor 113
Carburetor—Cleaning 153 Distributor—Adjustment of Points 113
Carburetor—Four Barrel 167 Distributor—Assembly 119
Carburetor—Four Barrel—Adjustments 173 Distributor—Data and Specifications 118
Carburetor—Four Barrel—Data and Specifications. . . . 172 Distributor—Disassembly 117
Caster 9 Distributor—Mechanical Advance 116
Chain Case Cover Oil Seal 200 Distributor—Mechanical Advance and Vacuum Con-
trol Specifications 116
Choke—Automatic—Crossover 143
Distributor—Vacuum Advance 115
Choke—Automatic—Integral 143
Door Alignment 370
Circuit Breaker 123
Door Handles 356
Clutch Assembly 71
Door Lock Cylinders 357
Clutch Assembly—Auburn 76
Door Trim and Hardware 355
Clutch Assembly—Borg and Beck 75
Door Ventilators Assembly 358
Clutch Data and Specifications 72
Door Window and Regulators 355
Clutch Disassembly—Auburn 74
Clutch Disassembly—Borg and Beck 74
Clutch Pedal Adjustments 71 E
Clutch Pedal Free Play 71 Engine Data and Specifications 182
Clutch Release Bearing 77 Engine—Major Tune Up 222
Clutch Release Lever Adjustment—Auburn 77 Engine—Minor Tune Up 221
MyMopar.com
ALPHABETICAL INDEX (Continued) 443
E (Continued)
Engine Mountings 210 King Pin Inclination. 11
Engine Oil 431
Engine Oil Recommendations 432
Engine Oil Types 432 Leak Detector—Air Conditioning 415
Engine Oiling System Data and Specifications 211 Lighting Circuit—Test 125
Engine Torque Specifications 190 Lighting System Data and Specifications 124
Engines—Protecting New Cars in Storage 439 Lighting System—Voltage Test 123
Evaporator 425 Low Speed System—Carburetor 147
Evaporator Filter 425 Lower Control Arm and Front Spring 14
Exhaust Pipe 179 Lubricants—Types Recommended 434
Expansion Valve—Air Conditioning 424 Lubrication Intervals 433
Lubrication—Mileage Maintenance Schedule 436
Fan Belt 83 M
Fender Alignment 364 Manifold Heat Control 177
Finish—Care of Body 439 Mechanical Tappets 206
Float System—Carburetor 146 Mounting Bolts 364
Flywheel 210 Muffler and TaÜ Pipe 179
Frame—Alignment Correction 276
Frame—Checking Alignment 273
Frame—Data and Specifications 276
Oil Change Recommendations. 431
Frame—Torque Specifications 276
OilFüter 433
Freon—Charging 417
Oil Filter Replacement 220
Freon—Checking Level 412
Oil Gauge 131
Freon—Discharging 416
Oilite Bearings 439
Front Shock Absorber 15
Oil Pan Gasket 183
Front Spring Height 10
Oil Pressure 433
Front Suspension System Data and Specifications 8
Oil Pressure Indicator Lamp 132
Front Suspension System Torque Specifications 8
Oil Pressure Relief Valve 219
Front Wheel Alignment 7
Oil Pump 211
Fuel Gauge—Electro-Magnetic 127
Oil Strainer 219
Fuel Gauge Readings 129
Overdrive Assembly and Installation 294
Fuel Gauge—Thermostatic 128
Overdrive Control Circuit 288
Fuel Pump 141
Overdrive Data and Specifications 290
Fuel System Data and Specifications 140
Overdrive Disassembly and Inspection 290
Fuel Tank 141
Overdrive Electrical System 288
Overdrive Governor 289
Overdrive Ignition Interruption Circuit 288
Generator 98
Overdrive Kickdown Circuit 289
Generator Data and Specifications 94 Overdrive Mainshaft 291
Generator Indicator Lamp 127 Overdrive Rail Lockout Switch 290
Generator—Performance Tests 98 Overdrive Solenoid 289
Generator Regulator 101 Overdrive Solenoid Circuit 288
Generator Regulator—Adjustment and Repair 104 Overdrive Torque Specifications 290
Generator Regulator Data and Specifications 96
Generator Regulator—Performance Tests 102
Glass Run Channels 357
Governor—PowerFlite 317 Piston Pins . 188
Piston Rings . 189
H Pistons . 187
Pistons—Fitting . 188
Hand Brake 43 . 113
Points—Distributors
Hand Brake—Adjustment—(External Type) 43 54-63
Power Brake—Assembly
Hand Brake—Adjustment—(Internal Type) 44 . 49
Power Brake—Disassembly
Handling Freon 12 411 . 49
Power Brake—Removal
Headlamp and Panel Lamp Switches 126 . 57
Power Brakes—Installation
Headlamps—Aiming 125 . 45
Power Brakes—Operation
Headlining 375 . 58
Power Brakes—Pedal Adjustment
Heater 398 PowerFlite Cleaning and Inspection of Valve Body and
High Speed System—Carburetor 147 Transfer Plate Assembly . 343
Hood Alignment 367 PowerFlite Data and Specifications . 297
Horn Adjustments 132 PowerFlite Disassembly and Assembly . 319
Hydraulic Tappets 206 PowerFlite Gearshift Selector Lever Adjustments . 313
PowerFlite Governor Removal, Disassembly and
Inspection . 323
Ignition Timing 114 PowerFlite Hydraulic Operation . 301
Instruments and Gauges 127 PowerFlite Hydraulic Pressure Tests . 310
Instruments and Gauges Data and Specifications 130 PowerFlite Kickdown Band Adjustment . 315
MyMopar.com
ALPHABETICAL INDEX (Continued)
P (Continued) Starter—Performance Tests 107

PowerFlite Kickdown Band and Reverse Band Adjust- Starter—Test for Ground 107
ment 339 Steering Data and Specifications 244
PowerFlite Line Pressure Chart 310 Steering Gear Adjustments 243
PowerFlite Linkage and Band Adjustments 313 Steering Gear and Column Jacket 247
PowerFlite Mechanical Operation 300 Steering Gear Cross Shaft 244
PowerFlite Operating Principles 296 Steering Knuckle and Support 12
PowerFlite Push Button Controls and Linkage 311 Steering Torque Specifications 244
PowerFlite Regulator Valve Body Installation 334 Steering Tube and Worm Assembly 245
PowerFlite Regulator Valve Body Removal 331 Steering Wheel 244
PowerFlite Removal 319 Storage Precautions 439
PowerFlite Reverse Band Adjustment 315 Strainer-Drier—Test 413
PowerFlite Reverse and Kickdown Band Removal and Super Heat—Test 414
Inspection 330 Sway Eliminator 278
PowerFlite Servicing 315 Switches—Air Conditioning 426
PowerFlite Throttle Linkage and Pressure Adjustments. . 313
PowerFlite Torque Converter 296
PowerFlite Torque Converter Hub Runout 321 Tappet Adjustment—PowerFlow 6 210
PowerFlite Torque Specifications 328 Tappet Bore—Hy-Fire V-8 207
Power Seat Operation 381 Temperature Chart 131
Power Steering—Adjustment of Steering Gear 265 Temperature Gauge 92 and 130
Power Steering Data and Specifications 262 Thermal Switch—Test 413
Power Steering—Manual Control Valve Adjustment. . . . 251 Thermostat 85
Power Steering Operating Principles 247 Tie Rod Ends 12
Power Steering Pump 266 Timing Chain and Sprockets 201
Power Steering Pump Pressure Checks 266 Tire Care 233
Power Steering Service Procedures 250 Tire—Dismounting and Mounting 229
Power Steering Torque Specifications 264 Tire Pressures 233
Power Windows—Operation 379 Tire Repair 230
Propeller Shaft and Universal Joint Data and Specifica- Tire Rotation 233
tions 240 Tire Static 398
Propeller Shaft and Universal Joint Torque Specifications 240 Toe-in 11
Toe-Out on Turns 10 and 12
Q Transmission Assembly and Installation 284
Quarter Window Glass 362 Transmission Data and Specifications 282
R Transmission Drive Pinion 284
Transmission Linkage Adjustments 279
Radiator—Reverse Flushing 82
Transmission Mainshaft Assembly and Installation 285
Radio 397
Transmission Mainshaft Oil Seal 281
Radio Adjustments 397
Transmission Mainshaft Removal 281
Rear Axle Data and Specifications 18
Transmission Removal 281
Rear Axle Pinion Adjustment 24
Transmission Synchronizer 284
Rear Axle Pinion Bearing Oil Seal 30
Transmission Torque Specifications 282
Rear Axle Torque Specifications 18 Tubing—Handling 417
Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal 194
Rear Quarter Window Glass—Sport Coupe and u
Convertible 363 Universal Joints 239
Rear Springs 275 Universal Joint Dust Cover 239
Rear Springs Data and Specifications 276 Upholstery Care 440
Rear Spring Interliners 277 Upper Control Arm 14
Rear Springs, Shock Absorbers—Torque Specifications. 276 Upper Control Arm Pin, Bushing and Dust Seal 14
Rear Window Glass 362
Receiver 425
Rocker Arm Assembly—Hy-Fire V-8 205 Valve—Exhaust Seat Inserts—PowerFlow 6 208
Valve Guides—Reaming—Hy-Fire V-8 203
s Valve—Lapping 208
Seasonal Care and Preparation 438 Valve—Refacing—PowerFlow 6 208
Shock Absorbers 277 Valve Springs—Hy-Fire V-8 204
Shock Absorbers Data and Specifications 276 Valve Springs—PowerFlow 6 209
Shock Absorbers—Test 278 Valves and Tappets—Hy-Fire V-8 203
Sliding and Stationary Glass (Suburban) 364 Valves and Tappets—PowerFlow 6 207
Spark Plug Inspection 122 Valves and Valve Seats—Refacing—Hy-Fire V-8 204
Spark Plugs Data and Specifications 118
Speedometer 131 w
Starter Assembly 109 Water Distribution Tube 87
Starter—Cleaning and Lubrication 109 Water Pump 87
Starter Data and Specifications 108 Wheel Balance 233
Starter Drive Assembly 109 Wheel Bearings 235
Starter—Inspection and Bench Tests 107 Wheel Cylinders 43
Starter—Installation Ill Wheels and Tires Data and Specifications 228
MyMopar.com
ALPHABETICAL INDEX (Continued) 445
W (Continued) Front Suspension System

Windshield Glass 359 Car Leads to One Side 16
Windshield Wiper 133 Front End Noises 16
Windshield Wiper Pivots 390 Wander 16
Windshield Wiper Switch 136 Fuel and Exhaust Systems
Wiper Motor—Reconditioning 134 See Diagnosis Procedures Under Engine Section
Wiper Blade Adjustment 133 Generating System
Ammeter Fails to Register Charge or Discharge 106
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES Ammeter Shows Discharge 105
Accessories Ammeter Shows High Charge 106
Directional Signal Lamp Will Not Light 403 Continual Loss of Battery Charge 106
Heater Leakage 403 Excessive Loss of Battery Fluid 106
Insufficient Heat 403 Ignition System
Radio Does Not Operate 402 See Diagnosis Procedures Under Engine Section
Radio Interference 401
Instruments—G auges—Horns—
Turn Indicator Light Will Not Light When Turn Is Made 403 Electric Windshield Wiper
Air Conditioning Horns Blow Continuously 138
Blower and Compressor Operating—No Cooling 427 Horns Will Not Blow 138
Blower Not Operating 427 Wiper Fails to Operate 138
Blower Operating—Partial Cooling 427 Wiper Fails to Park 139
High Head Pressure—Suction Pressure OK 430 Wiper Operates Slowly 139
Low Suction Pressure—Head Pressure OK 430 Lighting System
Low Suction Pressure—Low Head Pressure 430 All Lights Fail 126
Brakes (Power) Dim Headlights (Engine Idling or Shut Off) 126
Brakes Do Not Release Properly 69 Dim Headlights (Engine Running Above Idle with
Brakes "Touchy" or ``Grabby" 70 Battery Fully Charged) 126
Improper Pedal Return 69 Overdrive
Loss of Fluid 69 Engine Stalls During Kickdown 350
Loss of Pedal 70
Overdrive Will Not Disengage 349
Pedal Chatter 70
Overdrive Will Not Engage 349
Pedal Travel Too Great 69
Overdrive Will Not Kick Down 350
Spongy Pedal 70
Rear Axle
Unit Does Not Boost 70
Leakage 31
Brakes (Standard)
Noises 31
Brake Noise 69
Starting System
Chattering 69
Starter Fails to Engage Ill
Dragging Brakes 68
Starter Locks in Engagement Ill
Grabbing Brakes 68
Starter Turns Slowly or Does Not Operate Ill
Hard Pedal 69
Locked Brakes 68 Steering (Power)
Pedal Goes to Floor Board 68 Hard Steering in Both Directions 272
Spongy Pedal 67 Hard Steering in One Direction 272
Clutch Improper Turning Radius 272
Noise 272
Chattering 78
Oil Leakage 272
Dragging 78
Poor Recovery on Turns 272
Noises 79
Self Steering 272
Pedal Stiff or Binding 79
Slipping 78 Steering (Standard)
Cooling Hard Steering 271
Engine Warmup Slow 94 Loose Steering 271
Leakage 92 Transmission (PowerFlite)
Loss of Water (Without Apparent Leakage) 93 Excessive Slippage 350
Overheating 93 Improper Response to Gearshift Selector Lever Positions 354
Engine Miscellaneous Diagnosis Procedures 354
Driving Methods and Weather Conditions 227 Oil Pressure 353
Engine Difficult to Start or Fails to Start 223 Shift Pattern 351
Engine Lacks Power 224 Shift Quality 352
Engine Misses on Acceleration 225 Transmission (Standard)
Engine Noises 226 Hard Shifting 348
Engine Wül Not Idle Smoothly 224 Leakage 349
Excessive Fuel Consumption 227 Noises 347
Flat Spot on Acceleration 224 Slipping Out of Gear 348
High Oil Pressure 226 Universal Joints and Propeller Shaft
Low Oil Pressure 226 Noise 241
Oil Consumption 226 Vibration 241
Oil Leakage 225 Wheels and Tires
Frame—Rear Springs—Shock Absorbers Excessive Tire Wear 235
Noise 278 Wheel Bearing Noise 237
Unsatisfactory Ride 278 Wheel Tramp 235
MyMopar.com

1955 and 1956 Plymouth Service Manual

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

1955 and 1956 Plymouth Service Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

MyMopar.

Customer confidence pays dividends over the years. Treating a customer's

Starting Vehicle Numbers

P-26 Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere 13,835,001 20,745,001 25,180,001

VEHICLE NUMBER LOCATION

ENGINE NUMBER LOCATION

BODY NUMBER LOCATION

Vote ¢utd Sþec¿ftcœUo*¢>

This Plymouth Service Manual has been prepared as a reference book

This manual contains service information for units originally installed on

NUT SUSHtNG AND SPACER

Figure 1 — Front Suspension Parts

FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM

1. FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2. FACTORS OF FRONT WHEEL

FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM

Type Coil Spring—Independent Suspension

Camber —Y/idegree on Left — 0 degree on Right

King Pin Angle 5 to 6 ½ degrees

King Pin Bushings—Ream Upper .7960 to .7975 in. Upper—Needle Bearing

Wheel Bearing Type Tapered Roller

Tread Front 58.44 in.

Wheel Base 115 in.

Lower control arm bar bushing 165 ft. lbs. (min.)

Lower control arm pin 100 to 110 ft. lbs.

Upper control arm pin 100 to 110 ft. lbs.

Tie rod clamp bolts 10 to 15 ft. lbs.

Upper control arm pivot bar bolts 80 ft. lbs.

Lower control arm pivot bar bolts 60 ft. lbs.

To counteract the normal crown of the road the

Caster is the amount in degrees that the top of FRONT

TIRE CENTER LINE ™

Figure 6 — Steering Geometry on Turns Figure 7 — Measuring Front Spring Height

TOE-OUT ON TURNS 2. Then find the difference between the same

CAMBER AND KING PIN INCLINATION

The specified caster angle of minus (—) 2 de-

J. MEASURING TOE-IN — Spin front wheels

until the steering wheel is centered. MEASURE DISTANCE BETWEEN "B

DISTANCE "A" SHOULD 6£

tie-rod will move the steering wheel clockwise.

When the toe-in adjustment is correct, position ASSEMBLY

Figure 12 — Removing Steering Knuckle Bushings

shown in Figure 14. Install lower bushing and line

When a welch plug has been installed and

(Use of proper size adaptor (1) fits bushing or bearing (2)

Figure 15 — Line Reaming King Pin Bushings

Figure 14 — King Pin Bushings and

INSTALLING STEERING KNUCKLE BUSHINGS

Pivot bar may if necessary be rotated 1 turn

7. UPPER CONTROL ARM PIN, 46x43

Install dust seals on pivot bar and position pivot

Pivot bar may be rotated one turn in either LOWER MOUNTING

Place a jack or support under the lower control

Insert shock absorber through opening in spring

J. UPPER and LOWER CONTROL ARMS — In-

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Models P-26—P-28 P-27—P-29

Axle Shaft Nuts 142 ft. lbs. (min.)

Figure 2 — Remove Wheel and Hub

Remove bearing from axle shaft with puller

OIL SEAL STAKED

REAR AXLE SHAFT

REAR WHEEL 46x140

Figure 3 — Removing or Installing Brake Support

Cleanliness and inspection are vital factors to