Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Rica
Author(s): Setha M. Low
Reviewed work(s):
Source: American Ethnologist, Vol. 23, No. 4 (Nov., 1996), pp. 861-879
Published by: Blackwell Publishing on behalf of the American Anthropological Association
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/646187 .
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spatializing culture: the social productionand social
construction of public space in Costa Rica
In a recent article Denise Lawrence and I reviewed the literatureon the anthropology of the
built environment and spatial form (Lawrence and Low 1990). We identified the history and
contributions of diverse theoretical and methodological perspectives on the development of an
anthropological approach to the built environment, and concluded:
Themostpromisingnew directionforanthropologists lies in the areaof socialproductiontheories.These
approachesseek to place their understandingof built formswithin the largercontext of society's
and its history..... As an objectof study,the buildingbecomesa pointof spatialarticulation
institutions
forthe intersectionof multipleforcesof economy,societyandculture.
Further,the meaningof the builtenvironmentas revealedthroughits metaphoricalconnectionsand
ritualpracticesconstitutesan importantbutstill incompletelyexploreddimension.. . . The analysisand
interpretationof buildingdecisionscannotbe understoodapartfromsocial and economic institutional
forcesthatcontinuouslyinfluenceactors,nor can the interpretation of symbolicmeaningbe divorced
fromtheseforcesor history.
I have continued to explore these dimensions further in an effort to theorize space and
spatialize human experience more effectively within culturalanthropology. By spatialize I mean
to locate, both physically and conceptually, social relations and social practice in social space.
In this article I am using the specific analysis of two plazas in Costa Rica to explore the use of
the two mutually complementary perspectives of social production of space and social
construction of space as tools for understanding how public space in urban society becomes
semiotically encoded and interpreted reality.
In order to clarify this discussion it is important to distinguish between these two terms, for
they are often used interchangeably. The social production of space includes all those
factors-social, economic, ideological, and technological-the intended goal of which is the
physical creation of the material setting. The materialistemphasis of the term social production
is useful in defining the historical emergence and political and economic formation of urban
space. The term social construction may then be conveniently reserved for the phenomenologi-
cal and symbolic experience of space as mediated by social processes such as exchange,
methodology The ethnographic descriptions presented in the following case studies are
based on long-term fieldwork that I conducted in San Jose, Costa Rica from 1972 to 1974, in
the summers of 1976 and 1979, and during three intensive fieldwork periods focusing only on
the urban plazas (i.e., the first, May-September 1986, the second, December 1986-February
1987, and the third, November-December 1993). I was able to observe differing behaviors
during these visits since they were made at different times: the summer months coincide with
Costa Rica's rainy season, while the winter months are during the dry season. The rainy season
is characterized by late-afternoon rainthat, when heavy, interruptsplaza life for at least an hour.
During these periods I would stand with other plaza occupants under the closest available
shelter or visit one of the local cafes to wait for the rain to stop. During Christmas and New
Year's Day, in the dry season, plaza use is at its most intense. The weather is clear, sunny, and
cool, and the plazas become informal markets for seasonal gifts, nuts, and fruits.
observation Iwas concerned that participant-observationin a public space might not capture
all the activities that occur, so I utilized three differentobservational strategies in my fieldwork.
First,I observed each plaza by sector and recorded everything that occurred in that sector for
a designated period of time. This time/place sampling provided a system for nonsequentially
observing all the sites throughout the day on both weekends and weekdays. I also collected the
data to create a series of behavioral maps locating activities and counts of people by location,
sex, and age. Second, after the first month of time/space sampling a map of activity locations
had emerged, so in a second set of observations I concentrated on documenting those activities
and the people engaged in them throughout the plazas. Finally, during the third phase of
participant-observation, I carried a camera and map, spoke to people, and became more
involved in everyday plaza life. By this time plaza users were quite used to seeing me with my
clipboard and pen and were delighted that I was now taking photographs and involving them
in my-until then-apparently clandestine task. The camera gave many people an excuse to
talk to me and to ask what I was doing. I began to make friends and hang out with some of the
plaza occupants, even visiting them at home or joining them when they went for a drink or a
meal.
analysis This methodology was very effective in providing various kinds of data that could
be compared and analyzed. The content analysis of the fieldnotes, interviews, maps, and
historical documents generated a series of themes and theoretical insights into the cultural
underpinnings of plaza design and use. The observations, interviews, archival documentation,
and spatial and architectural maps and drawings provided distinct "texts"that I could read in
relation to one another in the search for breakdowns and incoherence that would in turn reveal
areas of cultural conflict and contestation (Agar 1986; Geertz 1973).
setting San Jose, Costa Rica is the capital and largest city of this small Central American
nation. Costa Rica-known for its beautiful scenery, preserved ecology, friendly people, and
stable government-has become an ecotourism mecca and a desirable retirement site for
middle-income North Americans who want to stretch their dollars while living in a warm
climate. The rapid increase of tourism, the recent influx of refugees from Nicaragua and El
Salvador, and the seemingly unending economic crises are blamed for what Josefinos (San Jose
residents) perceive as an increase in crime and physical deterioration in the capital city of this
tropical paradise.
Two plazas in the center of the city were selected as field sites. Parque Central, the original
Plaza Mayor, is one of the oldest plazas in San Jose and represents Costa Rica's Spanish colonial
history in its spatial form and context. Its relatively long history spans the colonial, republican,
and modern periods, and a number of historical photographs and portrayalsof earlier periods
of plaza design and social life were available in local archives. Parque Centralremains a vibrant
center of traditional Costa Rican culture and is inhabited by a variety of largely male workers,
pensioners, preachers and healers, tourists, shoppers, sex workers, and people who just want
to sit and watch the action. When I returned in 1993 it was temporarily under reconstruction:
the cement kiosk was being renovated and the surrounding benches, pathways, and gathering
spaces had been redesigned since my previous visit.
The Plaza de la Cultura, a contemporary plaza only one block west and one block north of
Parque Central, is a recently designed urban space heralded by Josefino boosters as an emblem
of the "new Costa Rican culture." Because it was opened in 1982, I was still able to interview
individuals involved in its design and planning, while at the same time it could be studied as a
well-established place. The Plaza de la Cultura proved to be an excellent comparison to Parque
Central, providing contrasts in style of design, spatial configuration, surroundingbuildings and
In 1751 Spanish colonists who had left the cacao-growing lowlands along the Caribbean
coast established a new town, LaVilla Nueva del Sefor San Jose, in the central highland plateau
of Costa Rica (Gonzalez Viquez 1973; Vega Carballo 1981). In contrast to the Plaza de Armas,
a plaza for militarydisplays that was built a few blocks away, the Parque Central was designed
as the ceremonial and civic center of the growing town. It began as a grassy, tree-covered
rectangular public space that served as a weekend marketplace and was oriented as a square
city block with north-southand east-west roads as its boundaries. Civic and religious institutions
quickly surrounded it. The Iglesia Parroquialwas built on the eastern side of the plaza in 1774
(DeMora 1973). (This church was to become the national cathedral after San Jose became the
capital of Costa Rica in 1823.) The militarybarracksfollowed on the northernside and the Casa
del Cabi do (town hall) was completed on the northeastcorner in 1799. Atthe same time, private
buildings were constructed; Capitan Don Miguel Jimenez built a house on the plaza as early
as 1761 (Gonzalez Viquez 1973:487). The remaining building sites were eventually filled with
private residences and small businesses, including the Botica Francesa and a small hotel on the
southern edge by the mid-19th century. As early as the beginning of the 19th century San Jose
was a relatively urban center in comparison to other populated areas (Vega Carballo 1981).
The plan and urban design of Parque Central was part of the establishment of the Spanish
American colonial empire, which repeatedly created a type of urbanspace that is still "produced
despite the vicissitudes of imperialism, independence and industrialization" (Lefebvre 1991:
151). Its history is a perfect illustration of the production of space in Spanish American towns,
based on the 1573 Orders for Discovery and Settlement as characterized by Lefebvre:
Theverybuildingof townsthusembodieda planwhichwoulddeterminethe modeof occupationof the
anddefinehow itwasto be reorganizedunderthe administrative
territory andpoliticalauthorityof urban
power.... The resultis a strictlyhierarchicalorganizationof space, a gradualprogressionoutwardfrom
the town'scentre... fromthe inevitablePlazaMayora gridextendsindefinitelyin everydirection.Each
squareor rectangularlot has itsfunctionassignedto it,while inverselyeach functionis assigneditsown
placeat a greateror lesserdistancefromthe centralsquare:church,administrative buildings,towngates,
squares,streets... and so on. [Lefebvre1991:151]
Lefebvre characterizes the building of Spanish-American towns such as San Jose as the
"productionof a social space by political power-that is, by violence in the service of economic
goals" (Lefebvre 1991:151-1 52). While I agree with his theoretical analysis, the details of the
origins of the plaza-centered grid-plan town deserve furtherexamination.
I have argued elsewhere that the Spanish American plaza and grid-plan town are syncretic
spatial forms derived from a combination of European architectural traditions of medieval
bastides (planned agricultural towns built by the French to protect their territory) and the
Mesoamerican plaza-temple complexes and urban plans of the cities encountered during the
conquest of the New World (Low 1993, 1995). Some of the earliest Spanish American plazas
were in fact superposed on the ruins of their Aztec or Maya antecedents. The European and
Mesoamerican plaza designs had similar aims: both were produced to display militaryconquest
and market domination by the conquering rulers, whether those rulers were Aztec, Mayan, or
Spanish. Therefore, although the Spanish American plaza is a product of colonial control and
consciously produced as a means of spatial domination, its form also derived from indigenous
forms of political and economic control expressed in the Mesoamerican plaza-temple complex.
Since the spatial relations of plaza to buildings, hierarchy of spaces, and functions of the plaza
remained the same from the Mesoamerican models to their Spanish American successors, the
symbolic meanings of the spatialized material culture reflect aspects of both cultural histories.
Parque Central retained its colonial form and meaning until the emergence of the republican
era in 1823. In the mid-19th century the plaza was redesigned and refurbished with all the
trappingsof Europeanbourgeois elegance: a grand fountain was imported from Englandin 1859
Plaza de la Cultura
The second case study, the newly built Plaza de la Cultura, sheds further light on these
processes by allowing us to observe how a new public urban space was created and defined
and subsequently appropriatedby a differentgroup of users-who gave it quite distinct cultural
meanings.
The Plaza de la Cultura is a modern paved plaza reminiscent of the futuristdesign of the
Pompidou Center in Paris, with bright chrome and yellow ventilation pipes, a shallow pool
containing three water jets, metal pipe benches, and few trees. Beneath the plaza are a
subterraneanGold Museum, exhibition spaces, and the Costa Ricantouristcenter, entered from
the northernedge by a series of grassy, sloping steps. The plaza is bordered on the south by the
turn-of-the-centuryNational Theater;on the west by the Gran Hotel, the majortourist hotel for
North Americans; and on the north and east by busy shopping streets lined by McDonald's,
Burger King, Pizza Hut, Sears, photographic supply stories, bookstores, and other local
businesses. The few trees are in planters lining the western edge alongside the hotel shops,
which include a newspaper stand carrying the Miami Herald, a clothing store, and a shop that
sells the renowned Costa Rican ice cream, Pops.
The building of the Plaza de la Cultura was an inspiration of the minister of culture. Costa
Rica's world-famous collection of pre-Columbian gold artifacts was formerly stored in the
Central Bank of Costa Rica. In 1975 the head of the Central Bank convinced the Legislative
Assembly to allocate funds to build a Gold Museum in order to display the collection as a
celebration of indigenous Costa Rican culture. The plan was supported by the "Liberationists,"
the political party in power at the time. The National Liberation Party (Liberaci6n Nacional)
represents a politically liberal coalition of professional, middle-class, and working-class Costa
Ricans, whereas the Social Christians'Unity Party(PartidoUnidad de Social Cristianos)-a more
conservative party-had grown out of earlier political coalitions including the landed gentry
and coffee-growing elite. The minister of planning and the head of the Central Bank selected
the land around the National Theater, already partly owned by the Central Bank, as an
appropriate site for a cultural center that would accommodate tourists and visitors to the new
Gold Museum. This desire for a new cultural center was also stimulated by the changes taking
place in Parque Central, which was becoming inadequate as a cultural embodiment of the
National LiberationParty ideals (Low 1996) Some structures already in place would remain:
the new plaza would incorporate the already-existing parquecito (little park) Juan Mora
Fernandez in front of the Gran Hotel and the shopping structure known as "the Arcades"
(Naranjo Coto 1982). Among the many structuresto be demolished, however, were the homes
of a few older residents (who were to be compensated by the state) and a number of small
business establishments (Archivos 1993).
This initial design was radically changed and expanded. When the minister of culture went
to the site to survey the progress of the demolition he saw the National Theater isolated in the
open space created by the destruction of the surrounding buildings. In an instant, he said, he
realized that it would be a much more powerful plan to have an open public plaza with the
Gold Museum underground, so that there would be an unobstructed view of the National
Theater-the "architecturaljewel" of San Jose. Thus the architecturalplans for the original Gold
Museum were scrapped and a new phase of planning and design began. The planning, design,
and building of the Plaza de la Cultura began in 1976 and culminated in its inauguration in
1982. Although some of the buildings selected for demolition were deemed to be of historic
significance, and despite local protest, the plan moved forward. More vigorous protests
You can watch them all the way acrossthe plazaon the leftto the end of the hotel plaza. It is a long
walk-and the girlsare the best here, mostlyupper-and upper-middle-class.... I mean the best for
watching.I preferthe lower-classand countrygirls.Theyarefriendlier,warmer,and it comes fromthe
heart-not stuck-uplikethe upper-classgirls.
The two men talked on, complaining that the benches in the Plaza de la Cultura were not
comfortable and that there were no good places to sit, but that they met there as part of their
daily routine. Another retired North American commented that although the plaza pipe benches
were uncomfortable, he liked the friendliness of the young girls and knew he would find young
people there. The Plaza de la Cultura is also near the McDonald's, another teenage hangout:
"Imaginea middle-aged guy like me hanging out in a McDonald's in Kansas City to meet girls.
I would be arrested."
Probably the happiest group are the teenagers who hangout in the evenings along the pipe
railing. One young man said that he found the spaciousness appealing. "Here," he said, "we
feel at home." When I asked two young men what they were doing in the plaza, they replied:
"Passing the time, shooting the breeze. What do young people do in the U.S.?" Before the
creation of this plaza, the teenagers were not a visible part of any parkor plaza. You could see
them walking down the streets or in couples, kissing or quietly talking in Parque Espafa or
Parque Morazon. But now they have their own space, designed in a way to create a stage for
their nightly performances. And they have successfully appropriatedthis public space for their
activities in the evenings.
As in ParqueCentral, however, the visible presence ofthe Gran Hotel bouncer and the guardia
civil (civil police), who question the youths (and in some cases stop or detain them), contests
their symbolic dominance. For instance, one Fridaynight a young man with a bottle in a brown
paper bag joined the line of teenagers along the railing. I was just wondering if they realized
how many police were around when two came by, took the bag, frisked all of them, took their
identity cards, and lined them up along the wall. As compared with ParqueCentral,this recently
designed urban space represents and accommodates more modern spatial practices, based on
youth, foreign capital, tourism, and an ideology of liberal modernism, but contested through
the localized discourse about the safety and comfort of the plaza. The Plaza de la Culturaseems
to be more about the consumption of culture than the working landscape of Parque Central.
Most importantly,the forces that produced this new plaza are reflected in its design and social
use as well as in the ambivalence of being there. The teenagers and tourists are comfortable,
while other Costa Ricans either fear the plaza and or wish that it was quieter, calmer, more
shaded, and sedate.
conclusion
In these two examples of Costa Rican plazas, I illustrate how an anthropological approach
to the study of urban space would work ethnographically. I have focused on the historical
emergence, sociopolitical and economic development, patternsof social use, and experiential
meanings of plaza life and design as a means of empirically working out the implications of the
broader social production of space and social construction of space perspectives. The ethno-
graphic illustrationshighlight sociopolitical forces, spatial practices, and effortsat social control
that provide insight into the conflicts that arise as different groups attempt to claim and define
these urban spaces. Furthermore,these processes elucidate the ways in which the forces and
limits of the social production of space and social construction of space are engaged and
contested in public arenas.
To summarize the analytic possibilities of these complementary perspectives, I would like to
return to the recent conflict over the design and style of the kiosk in Parque Central. As I
mentioned, from 1990 through 1992 the city held a series of town meetings to discuss replacing
the 1944 modernist cement kiosk with a replica of the previous Victorian wooden one. Many
Josefinos argued that the Victorian kiosk was a better representation of Costa Rican cultural
values because it evoked a nostalgic image of cultura(culture)and bourgeois decorum (see Low
1996; Richardson 1982). Others, however, argued that the 1944 cement kiosk was part of the
city's patrimony and should not be torn down, but should instead be preserved and improved.
Ultimately the forces for historic preservation won, and the cement kiosk has been restored as
the central design element in a redesigned plaza that opened in 1994. This vignette highlights
the cultural importance of the design of the kiosk, a significance furtherdemonstrated by the
fact that citizens staged proteststo which the government responded with a series of open town
meetings. We see how these two images of a kiosk were materially produced in different
historical and political periods and retained semiotic interpretationsfrom the respective periods
of their material production. Moreover, the case illustrates how these spatial representations
have assumed new social meanings in the recent struggle between modernization and historic
preservation forces in San Jose, and how this conflict highlights the importance of spatializing
culture and human experience as an analytic strategy for understanding people's negotiation
of cultural values and representations of those values.
notes
references cited
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