How To Build A 3D Printer

8/28/23, 4:51 PM How to Build a 3D Printer: Parts list and Basic Steps - 3D Insider
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How to Build a 3D Printer

by Joseph Flynt Posted on August 22, 2018 13 Shares
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The best way to learn about 3D printing is to build a 3D printer from scratch. It’ll make you more
familiar with the components, from the electronics to the motion controls, and how they work
together. Having an intimate knowledge of the ins and outs of a 3D printer will also make
troubleshooting relatively easier.
The costs and time required to build a 3D printer depend on your starting point as the process
can mean two things. It can mean assembling a DIY 3D printer kit or building a 3D printer using
individually sourced parts.
With the former path, you assemble a 3D printer from a kit that contains everything you
need, including spare parts and some tools. An assembly manual is also included in the
package, although the level of documentation varies from product to product. Some kits
come with a comprehensive build manual while others include a build manual that’s more
https://3dinsider.com/how-to-build-a-3d-printer/ 1/10
confusing than helpful. On average, a kit can be assembled in 4-8 hours, but some require
more than 10 hours.
With the latter path, you need to obtain the components individually. There are different
ways to get the components you need. You can buy brand-new or second-hand parts from
hardware stores and online outlets such as eBay and Amazon, as well as use parts from
unused devices in your house. If you already own a 3D printer – presumably bought as pre-
assembled, hence your interest in a DIY 3D printer – or know someone who has one and is
willing to help you out, you can also print some of the parts.
This guide is about the latter. If you need help assembling a 3D printer kit, this guide isn’t for
you; for help on that front, you can check out online resources specifically related to your kit.
It’s a lot more difficult and time-consuming to build a 3D printer completely from scratch,
considering you need to obtain each and every component on your own and the lack of an
instruction manual to guide you step by step. In addition, it requires good technical skills and a
good understanding of electronics and machines in general, which isn’t a strict requirement
when assembling a kit. Including the time spent obtaining the components, the full DIY route
can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, with the biggest variable in the
equation being your available free time.
Choosing the parts for your custom DIY 3D printer is a daunting task, taking into account the
number of options on the market. In this guide, we’ll help you get started on your project and
list down the main components you need to build your own 3D printer. Just to be clear, this
guide is about FFF/FDM 3D printers, the most common type of consumer-level 3D printer on
the market.
Choosing the Motion Structure and Frame

Before you even worry about the other components, you need to think about the mechanical
arrangement and frame material of the 3D printer. There are different kinds of FFF/FDM 3D
printers, the most popular and the most recommended for a DIY beginner is a Cartesian 3D
printer.
In a Cartesian XZ Head setup, the 3D printer has a gantry structure with an extruder mount that
moves up and down on the Z-axis and side to side along the X-axis. Meanwhile, the print bed
moves on the Y-axis, perpendicular to the X-axis. While relatively easy to build, a Cartesian XZ
Head mechanical arrangement is prone to stability issues due in part to the constant lateral
movement of the print bed, so a robust frame is a must.
In a Cartesian XY Head setup, the hotend is fixed at the top of the 3D printer and moves on the
X-axis and the Y-axis while the print bed moves up and down on the Z-axis. This particular
mechanical arrangement has a more complicated structure and requires a cube or rectangular
frame. On the bright side, a Cartesian XY mechanical arrangement can print faster on average
and has better stability.
The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is an example of a 3D printer with a Cartesian XZ Head structure
while the Ultimaker 3 is an example of a 3D printer with a Cartesian XY Head structure.
If you’re up for a challenge or want a 3D printer that prints really fast and looks extremely cool
while printing, you can build a delta 3D printer instead. In a delta mechanical arrangement, the
3D printer has a tower-like structure with three pillars arranged in a triangular position and a
circular print area. Each pillar has an arm connected to a belt-driven system, moving up and
down on the Z-axis. The hotend is connected to the arms and is suspended in the middle of
the 3D printer while the print bed is completely unmoving at the base.
While a delta 3D printer can achieve fast print speeds and has a stationary print bed, it can be a
pain to calibrate and troubleshoot, regardless of your technical skills and experience with 3D
printers. In addition, the machine size to print size ratio is not good.
The parts you need to obtain depend on the mechanical arrangement you want for your DIY 3D
printer, so make sure you decide on one before you go shopping. Of the three options
mentioned above, the Cartesian XZ Head, which has a straightforward structure, is the most
recommended for those who are building a 3D printer for the first time.
Frame Material
The frame holds the other components together and includes a number of bolts, nuts, rods, and
bearings. It’s the biggest variable in determining the overall stability and durability of the 3D
printer. The primary frame material depends on your budget and the tools you have. Acrylic is
cheap and can be easily manipulated but is prone to cracking as well as wobbling due to the
lightweight nature of the material. Wood is also easy to manipulate but is similarly not ideal for
high-temperature and high-speed performance.
Of the most commonly used frame materials, aluminum and steel are considered the best. A 3D
printer with an aluminum or steel frame is significantly more durable and more stable, not to
mention more ideal for high-temperature prints, than a 3D printer with a wood or acrylic frame.
Even though aluminum and steel are more expensive on average compared to acrylic and
wood, they offer more long-term value.
We definitely recommend that you go for a metal frame. Forget about acrylic. Sure, the material
is cheap, but the acrylic-related issues you’ll encounter in the future, such as warping, are not
worth the low price.
Choosing the Parts

In this section, we’ll list down the parts you need to build a 3D printer, from the electronics to
the extruder to the print bed. When shopping, be wary of cheap knock-offs of popular products,
as they often have serious quality issues and don’t tend to last very long.
Controller Board
The controller board (also called the motherboard or mainboard) is the 3D printer’s brain. It
tells the motion components how to move and processes input from the sensors, among other
functions. There are a number of controller boards on the market, with SmoothieBoard, RAMBo,
and RAMPS being the most popular of the bunch, all of which offer excellent long-term value
and can accommodate a dual extruder setup. If you want Wi-Fi connectivity out of the box, you
can also check out Duet Wi-Fi.
Some controller boards are not built for high-temperature prints and get overwhelmed by the
amount of power a heated print bed requires. If you go for a cheap controller board, presumably
a knock-off of a well-established product, we recommend that you get a MOSFET as well. The
MOSFET will handle the power draw of the heated print bed, relieving the controller board of
pressure.
Power Supply Unit (PSU)

Obviously, a 3D printer won’t be able to run without a power source. But don’t just buy the first
PSU you run into; consider the product’s characteristics first. Consider the form factor, the
input/output, and whether it has an actual physical switch. If you plan to print with high-
temperature materials like ABS, Nylon, and TPU, get a PSU that will allow the heated print bed to
easily reach the required temperature for those materials.
Print Bed
The print bed is the platform where the 3D model is formed. Its movement depends on the
mechanical arrangement of the 3D printer. In a Cartesian XZ Head setup, it moves along the Y-
axis while in a Cartesian XY Head setup, it moves along the Z-axis. In a delta setup, the print
bed is stationary at the base of the machine.
We recommend that you go for a heated print bed since it will allow you to print with more
advanced materials in the future. A non-heated print bed is limited to PLA, the most common
material used in 3D printing. There are two commonly used types of print beds: aluminum and
glass. An aluminum print bed heats up faster and distributes the heat more evenly and is not
prone to breaking. A glass print bed is easy to clean and has a flatter surface. In addition, a
glass print bed is not prone to warping.
The print bed comes in different sizes. If you’re building a Prusa-style 3D printer, the most
popular print bed size is around 7.9 x 7.9 inches. That’s approximately 200 x 200 millimeters. If
you’re building a delta 3D printer, keep in mind that the print bed on that one is circular.
A print bed also needs a print surface, which helps the 3D model stick on the platform. In a
Cartesian XZ Head mechanical arrangement, it’s crucial for the print bed to have optimum
adhesion, considering the print bed’s constant lateral movement on the Y-axis. The most
common print surfaces are BuildTak and PEI. A lot of people also use other materials to add
more adhesion to the print surface – like glue, painter’s tape, and hairspray.
Print Head
The print head, also called the extruder, is the heart of the 3D printer. It’s responsible for
melting the filament and depositing it onto the print bed. The print head is composed of two
sections: the cold end and the hotend, both of which have very specific functions. The cold
end pulls and clamps the filament and pushes it toward the hotend. The hotend, as the name
suggests, melts the filament and deposits it onto the print bed via a small opening at the tip,
called the nozzle, which varies in size.
Both the cold end and the hotend affect the overall print quality, the print speed, and the
materials you can print with. An E3D Titan extruder combined with an E3D V6 hotend is one of
the most popular extruder setups due to its customizability, durability, and ability to handle
different types of materials, including advanced high-temperature materials. The Bondtech QR
Universal Extruder and the DisTech Automation Prometheus V2 are also excellent options for
the cold end and the hotend, respectively.
All of the aforementioned products are not budget-friendly, though. You can go for cheaper
options, but don’t expect them to perform as well as the genuine products. The E3D V6 hotend,
in particular, has dozens of knock-offs on the market, the majority of which are not worth the
money.
When building a 3D printer, you also have to consider the filament feeding system of the
machine. You have to choose between a Bowden setup and a direct drive setup. Both
configurations have pros and cons. The good news is that you’re not forever locked into
whatever configuration you choose initially. You can always tinker with your 3D printer and
switch to a different setup.
In a Bowden setup, the cold end and the hotend are physically separated from each other. The
cold end is located somewhere on the frame, glued in place, while the hotend is connected to
the motion components. In this setup, you get faster print speeds since the weight of the cold
end is not a variable.
In a direct drive setup, the cold end and the hotend are directly connected to each other, which
means more weight to carry around. This feeder system has a more straightforward structure
and is often the recommended setup for flexible filaments. In a delta mechanical arrangement,
a direct drive setup is not usually suggested since you need the hotend to be as light as
possible.
It’s a lot better to invest in a high-quality print head setup than a cheap low-end setup. You get
more long-term value and encounter fewer issues down the road. If you can’t afford the
genuine items, make sure the cheaper alternatives you’re considering have a solid reputation.
Fans
A 3D printer has a pair of fans on the print head, one as a heat sink fan and one as a nozzle
cooling fan. The former is responsible for making sure the filament from the cold end doesn’t
melt prematurely before reaching the nozzle while the latter cools the filament as soon as it is
deposited on the print bed. Some users also add a fan for the controller board. If you already
have a MOSFET for the heated print bed, a motherboard fan is not strictly necessary.
For the heatsink fan, a box-style fan is often used. For the cooling fan near the nozzle, it’s often
a blower-style fan. You can also print an air duct extension for the nozzle cooling fan to give
the nozzle a more focused and more effective cooling system.
Stepper Motors
A 3D printer’s mechanical movement relies on a series of stepper motors. Compared to a
regular DC motor, a stepper motor moves in increments or steps, making it more ideal for
precise movements. Stepper motors are connected to the three axes, driving the belts and the
threaded rods or leadscrews. The extruder also comes with a stepper motor, which is what
drives the filament movement in the cold end. In a delta setup, the print bed is not driven by a
stepper motor, unlike in a Cartesian 3D printer.
The most commonly used motors on 3D printers, especially DIY RepRap 3D printers, are NEMA
17 stepper motors. The number in the model name refers to the faceplate’s size. In the NEMA
17’s case, the number refers to the 1.7 x 1.7 inches faceplate. As with the extruder and the
controller board, you can find cheap stepper motors on the market, some of which are second-
hand.
Threaded Rods / Leadscrews

In a Cartesian 3D printer, stepper motor-connected threaded rods or leadscrews drive the
movement along the Z-axis. Some also use them on the X-axis and the Y-axis, resulting in a
smoother and more precise movement, but at the expense of speed, not to mention that kind
of setup is more expensive. The threaded rods or leadscrews on the Z-axis also add to the
overall stability of the 3D printer.
Although they look similar, threaded rods and leadscrews are different from each other.
Threaded rods are cheaper and are widely available. Leadscrews, on the other hand, are more
expensive but offer a much smoother performance. Go for the setup that best suits your
budget.
Belts
GT2 belts are the most commonly used belts on 3D printers. Belts usually drive the movement
on the X and Y axes and affect the noise level and the accuracy of the 3D printer. We
recommended that you don’t go dirt-cheap on this component as extremely cheap belts
stretch out easily, affecting the overall precision of the machine. If you can afford it, you can
also use threaded rods or leadscrews on the X and Y axes, but while that setup offers more
precision, it affects the print speed in a negative way.
Once your 3D printer is ready to print, you should build tensioners for the belts as soon as
possible. They keep the belt in optimum tightness and make it easier to adjust the belt tension.
You shouldn’t have issues finding designs for belt tensioners for both the X and Y axes on
Thingiverse.
End Stops
End stops prevent the 3D printer from moving past its range and act as position references for
the controller board. Mechanical end stops are the most common. They are cheaper and have a
more straightforward setup than optical end stops. If you want to be a bit fancy, you can use a
probe as an end stop on the Z-axis. Such a setup requires the probe to be attached to the print
head.
Spool Holder
The spool holder is exactly what it sounds like. You’ll want a spool holder that can fit almost any
spool – a universal spool holder, in other words. It’s fine to just use a makeshift spool holder in
the beginning to cut costs, and then once your 3D printer is up and running, you can print a
universal spool holder based on Thingiverse designs. Where the spool holder is mounted on
the frame often depends on the mechanical arrangement and whether the feeder system is in a
Bowden setup or a direct drive setup.
User Interface / Connectivity

Some 3D printers can only be controlled when connected to a computer. Others can start prints
while untethered, which is convenient. Ideally, you’ll want a 3D printer that can connect via USB
and has an onboard interface with SD card connectivity for standalone prints. For the onboard
interface, you can go for a standard LCD interface operated by either a dial, a knob or a set of
buttons. A touch-based interface is also on the table, but we only recommend it as a future
upgrade.
Once you’re all set with the components you need to build a 3D printer, the next step is to put
everything together, obviously. It’s not going to be easy, especially considering you don’t have
an instruction manual to walk you through the entire process. It’s best to take it slowly and be
extremely meticulous in each step. If you’re not sure about a specific step, don’t hesitate to ask
for help at online forums.
General Tips
There is no shortcut when building a 3D printer completely from scratch. You have to do it the
hard way and take the entire process one step at a time. Here are a few general tips:
1. Decide on the 3D printer’s mechanical arrangement before you start listing down the
components you need to buy. You can’t start on a Cartesian 3D printer and then suddenly
decide to switch to a delta 3D printer halfway through the assembly – unless you have the
time and money for it, of course.
2. Make a list of the exact specifications you want. List down your target print size, print
speed, material compatibility, layer resolution, and connectivity options, among others.
Your target specs will dictate the structure and components of your 3D printer as well as
your costs.
3. If you’re new to building 3D printers from scratch, it’s best to stay away from a dual
extruder setup. It’s more complicated to build, not to mention more expensive. You can
always add a second extruder in the future.
4. Don’t worry too much about the cosmetics of your 3D printer when putting it together. It’s
common for a 3D printer created from scratch to look unappealing, complete with
spaghetti wires that can make an electrician cringe. Just focus on building a machine that
will actually work as intended and worry about the cosmetics later. Once your 3D printer is
up and running, you can always add modifications to make it more attractive – like cable
chains and covers for the electronics.
5. You don’t have to go for fancy features right out of the gate. Stuff like an automatic bed
leveling system and a touchscreen interface with Wi-Fi connectivity can be added later
on. Again, just focus on creating a machine that works.
6. In case we didn’t make it clear enough earlier in the guide, you should stay away from
acrylic when considering the frame material. It’s not built for high-temperature prints.
Even if you only plan to print with PLA, an acrylic-framed 3D printer is still not a good idea
due to the material’s fragility. You can use plastic for some components of the 3D printer,
but not for the main structure.
7. When building a 3D printer, it’s important to be organized about everything. For example,
you can create your own checklist or instruction manual so you always know the last step
you did when resuming work after a pause.
8. Be patient. Building a 3D printer from scratch is not something that can be done in just
one or two days, unlike when assembling a DIY kit. Shopping for the components alone
can take more than a week, and before you even reach that point, you need to spend a lot
of time planning the 3D printer’s design. Again, you have to take the entire process one
step at a time. If you can’t do that, then you’re better off buying a pre-assembled 3D
printer.
Warning; 3D printers should never be left unattended. They can pose a firesafety hazard.
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Joseph Flynt
I love diving into the latest and greatest in emerging technologies and seeing what
they can do. I enjoy running when I'm not thinking about tech.
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8/28/23, 4:51 PM How to Build a 3D Printer: Parts list and Basic Steps - 3D Insider

Choosing the Motion Structure and Frame

Choosing the Parts

Power Supply Unit (PSU)

Threaded Rods / Leadscrews

User Interface / Connectivity

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