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Journal of Microbiological Methods 106 (2014) 104–109

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Journal of Microbiological Methods


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jmicmeth

An innovative challenge test for solid cosmetics using freeze-dried


microorganisms and electrical methods
M.R.S. Ferreira, F.R. Lourenço, M.T. Ohara, N.A. Bou-Chacra ⁎, T.J.A. Pinto
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Sao Paulo, Brazil

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Freeze-dried bacteria and fungi were used as inoculum in 28 days' PET. An electrical method was used in replace-
Received 30 May 2014 ment of the conventional plate count method. The use of freeze-dried microorganisms in association with the
Received in revised form 18 August 2014 electrical method can minimize the workload and the variability involved in PET for cosmetic powders.
Accepted 19 August 2014
© 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
Available online 28 August 2014

Keywords:
Preservative
Efficacy test
Solid cosmetic
Electrical methods

1. Introduction preservative system should not replace good manufacturing practices or


reduce the viable microbial population of a nonsterile product (USP, 35).
The cosmetic industry has been expanding and growing steadily in The preservative efficacy test (PET) is performed to determine the
recent decades. Sales in the beauty and personal care industry reached minimum effective concentration of antimicrobial preservatives re-
US$68.7 billion in the United States and US$433.4 billion globally in quired for adequate preservation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical prod-
2012. The US industry will reach US$ 81.7 billion by 2017 according to ucts (Orth, 1991, 1997). This test assures the quality of the cosmetic
the Euromonitor International Forecast by Direct Selling News (Direct before it is marketed. Despite all efforts to continuously improve the
Selling News, 2014). In Brazil, according to the 2012 Catalogue of the microbiological quality of cosmetics, microbial contamination of com-
Brazilian Association of Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Perfume Industry mercially available products are still reported in the literature of devel-
(ABIHPEC), this sector earned R$ 29.4 billion in 2011 ex-factory oping countries (Abdelaziz et al., 1989; Okeke and Lamikanra, 2001;
amounts, which represents 1.7% of Brazil's GDP. During this same peri- Shaqra and Al-Groom, 2012; Tan et al., 2013), and even in Italy
od, the sector grew by 4.6%, more than Brazil's overall total GPD, which (Campana et al., 2006).
grew by only 0.1%. Brazil ranks 3rd in the global makeup market. A joint Part of PET involves challenging a sample using different microor-
survey conducted by ABIHPEC and Booz & Company revealed that the ganisms and determining survivors in specific time intervals by conven-
consumption of products in the sector is expected to grow at around tional microbial counting (challenge test). A challenge test is performed
5% per year by 2015 (ABIHPEC, 2014). to verify if the preservative system (types of preservatives and their
The cosmetic industry is a very dynamic segment that readily em- concentrations) is capable of inhibiting microbial growth. This method
braces innovation to maintain a competitive edge and must offer high is applied only to liquid and semi-solid products, even though solid cos-
quality products, involving esthetic considerations and microbiological metic products can also suffer microbial contamination with repeated
quality. Cosmetics have multiple uses, and it is not unusual that they use by consumers.
are stored under a variety of conditions, including warm and moist To evaluate samples, it is recommended to challenge them with mi-
bathrooms, women's handbags as well as forgotten in cars and then crobial suspensions (Magee et al., 1997; British Pharmacopeia, 2010;
used again. In this context, an adequate preservative system must be Unites States Pharmacopeia, 2012). However, for solid powders it is
used to assure product integrity during its shelf life (Russel, 2003) and difficult to guarantee microorganism homogeneity in the sample. This
use (Orth, 1989; Magee et al., 1997; Russel, 2003). However, the difficulty leads to high variability in the results. A freeze-dried inoculum
could facilitate the sample homogeneity, since a mixture involving pow-
der is much easier to obtain. Considering this, the use of freeze-dried
⁎ Corresponding author at: 580 Professor Lineu Prestes Avenue, Cidade Universitária,
microorganisms can be a practical alternative to PET.
Butantã, São Paulo, Brazil. Tel.: +55 11 38154418; fax: +55 11 30913628. Periodic evaluation of the survivors in preservative efficacy testing
E-mail address: chacra@usp.br (N.A. Bou-Chacra). using the pour plate technique involves extensive work in preparing

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.mimet.2014.08.009
0167-7012/© 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
M.R.S. Ferreira et al. / Journal of Microbiological Methods 106 (2014) 104–109 105

the material, executing the test and counting plates. Several alternatives 2.2. Challenge test using electrical methods to determine the survivors
to traditional colony-count techniques have been developed.
Electrical methods have been proposed as promising alternatives. 2.2.1. Microorganisms
This method is based on the modifications of electrical properties in The test organisms consisted of strains of freeze-dried S. aureus ATCC
culture medium due to metabolism of the microorganism (Jeffrey 6538, P. aeruginosa ATCC 9027, A. niger ATCC 16404 and C. albicans ATCC
et al., 1989; Connolly et al., 1993, 1994; Zhou and King, 1995; Pinto 10231.
et al., 1999; Basa and Flores, 2000; Chorianopoulos et al., 2008; Yang.
and Bashir, 2008). Non-charged molecules are turned into charged 2.2.2. Electrical device
molecules for microorganism growth, so these electrical changes may A Bactometer® model-128 microbial monitoring system (Biolab
detect microbial growth by the automatic system using signals such as Merieux®) was used. It has eight plastic modules in one unit. Each mod-
conductance, capacitance and impedance (Pinto et al., 1999; Szita ule contains sixteen molded wells. Each well contains two stainless steel
et al., 2007). Among the advantages, this method requires less material, electrodes holding up to 2 mL of culture medium. A total of 128 samples
labor and time (Connolly et al., 1993; Connolly et al., 1994). Many can be monitored simultaneously in one unit. The instrument uses three
authors found promising results using this method for bacteria determi- detection modes: impedance, capacitance and conductance.
nation (Connolly et al., 1993; Chorianopoulos et al., 2008; Priego et al.,
2011).
2.2.3. Signal choice (impedance, capacitance and conductance)
In this context, the aim of this study is to evaluate the application of
Volumes of 1.5 mL of GPMplus Bactometer® medium were added to
freeze-dried microorganisms as inoculum in the preservative efficacy
the wells at least 24 h before use.
test for a solid cosmetic and to verify the applicability of the impedance
A suspension containing 10% of eye shadow was prepared using
method to determine survivor microorganisms instead of using the
Diluent 2 as described in the inactivation of the preservative system
plate count technique for bacteria.
for both bacteria. This mixture was held stationary for 30 min before
the test execution.
2. Materials and methods The freeze-dried microorganism was recovered in 10 mL of saline
solution 0.9% (w/v), and was diluted to give a bacterial concentration
2.1. Freeze-dried microorganisms in preservative efficacy test range from 102 to 107 CFU/mL. A total of 0.1 mL of each dilution was
withdrawn and transferred to a group of six wells containing the culture
2.1.1. Microorganisms media in order to obtain 10 to 106 CFU/well. The amount of 0.1 mL of
The test organisms consisted of strains of freeze-dried Staphylococcus the diluted sample described above was added to each well.
aureus ATCC 6538, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Candida albicans The detection time (DT) was determined using impedance, capaci-
ATCC 10231 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404 (Souza and Ohara, 2003). tance and conductance signals for each two wells.
The incubation temperature was 35 °C for bacteria for 24 h and
28 °C for the fungi for 100 h.
2.1.2. Cosmetic sample Plate counting was performed in parallel using 1.0 mL of the same
The samples used in this study consisted of a powdered eye-shadow microorganism suspension used above diluted to present around
containing 1.0% (p/p) of Glydant plus® (DMDM hydantoin and 102 CFU/mL. Tryptic Soy Agar was used as media and the incubation
iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). time was 24–48 h at 32 ± 2.5 °C.
The choice of the better signal was based on the data obtained in this
test and also a calibration was conducted to correlate plate count with
2.1.3. Inactivation of the preservative system the 3 signals used.
The preservative system was inactivated by using the decimal dilu-
tion of three different diluents: 1) Peptone 1.0%, sodium thiosulfate 2.2.4. Challenge test and determination of the survivors by impedance
0.6%, sodium bisulfite 0.25%, soy lecithin 0.7%, and polysorbate 80 0.5% method
in distilled water to the bacteria (Diluent 1). 2) Peptone 2.0%, sodium The test was conducted as described in the challenge test using
thiosulfate 0.6%, sodium bisulfite 0.1%, soy lecithin 1.0%, and polysorbate freeze-dried microorganisms in the preservative efficacy test. Samples
80 3.0% in distilled water was added to yeast (Diluent 2). 3) Casein soy were aseptically removed after 0 h, 2 h, 4 h, 8 h, 24 h, 48 h, 7 days,
broth 3.0%, soy lecithin 0.5% and polysorbate 20 4.0% in distilled water 14 days, 21 days and 28 days to determine the detection time (DT).
(Diluent 3) to the mold. All of the media were previously sterilized. Two tests were performed in duplicate for S. aureus, P. aeruginosa and
A. niger.
The wells were incubated at 35 °C for 24 h to obtain the detection
2.1.4. Challenge test
time (DT). The number of survivors was established using the calibra-
One-vial containing 107 CFU of the freeze-dried microorganisms
tion curve.
(Souza and Ohara, 2003) was mixed gradually with 15 g of the sample.
The inoculated samples were maintained in glass bottles at room tem-
perature and samples were aseptically removed after 0 h, 2 h, 4 h, 8 h, 2.2.5. Statistical analysis
24 h, 48 h, 7 days, 14 days, 21 days and 28 days for viable counting. PET results obtained from electrical and pour plate methods were
The sample was diluted as described in the inactivation of the preserva- compared using a linear least square regression analysis. We assumed
tive system, and after 30 min of contact, 10-fold serial dilutions were that both impedance and pour plate methods were equivalent if the
made. confidential intervals for slope and intercept include the values 1.0
The pour plate technique was performed on a 1-mL aliquot taken and 0.0, respectively.
from the appropriate dilution using Tryptic Soy Agar for the bacteria
and Sabouraud Dextrose Agar for the fungi. The incubation time was 3. Results
48 h at 32 ± 2.5 °C for bacteria and yeast; for the mold it was 72 h at
22.5 ± 2.5 °C. 3.1. Use of freeze-dried microorganisms in the challenge test
At least six tests were performed for each microorganism and the re-
sults were compared with the specifications of the official compendia Table 1 shows the average number of survivors of S. aureus,
and CTFA. P. aeruginosa, C. albicans and A. niger. On the 7th day, the number of
106 M.R.S. Ferreira et al. / Journal of Microbiological Methods 106 (2014) 104–109

survivors was lower than 10 (ten) Log CFU/g for the bacteria. C. albicans Table 2
presented a faster die-off with no recovery in 24 h. Correlation coefficient using S. aureus ATCC 6538, P. aeruginosa ATCC 9027, C. albicans
ATCC 10231 and A. niger ATCC 16404 for impedance, conductance e capacitance.
A. niger, presented the opposite behavior with a recovery rate of
4.7 CFU/g in 28 days. While the C. albicans was the least resistant micro- Microorganisms Correlation coefficient
organism, the A. niger was the most resistant. Impedance Conductance Capacitance

S. aureus ATCC 6538 0.9875 0.7699 0.9468


3.2. Challenge test using the electrical methods to determine survivors P. aeruginosa ATCC 9027 0.9748 0.8889 0.966
C. albicans ATCC 10321 – – 0.9914
A. niger ATCC 16404 – – 0.9512
The first aspect considered in this study was the choice of the best
signal for each microorganism.
The impedance and capacitance signals showed a better correlation
when the eye shadow and S. aureus were used (Table 2). 1997) present guidelines that describe the methodology used to deter-
As the impedance signal presented the best correlation coefficient, it mine the preservative efficacy for these products.
was decided that this signal would be chosen to construct the calibra- The use of freeze-dried microorganisms as inocula could be an inno-
tion curve for S. aureus. vative option to challenge the samples in the preservative efficacy test-
When P. aeruginosa was used as test microorganism, capacitance ing (Souza and Ohara, 2003). Entis (1984, 1989) used freeze-dried
presented faster results compared to conductance or impedance and microorganisms to validate alternative methods for counting viable mi-
also presented a good correlation coefficient of 0.966 (Table 2). croorganisms. Also Cremieux et al. (2005) used dried inocula prepared
For the fungi, the signal chosen was capacitance because it was the by membrane filtration followed by drying in an incubator as a proposal
only signal that presented any correlation at all. for the evaluation of the preservative efficacy in wet wipes. According to
The calibration curve for all microorganisms tested was constructed the Federation Internationale Pharmaceutique (FIP) (1984) the lyophi-
using the impedance signal for S. aureus and capacitance for the other lized inocula were specially developed to contaminate products such as
microorganisms and; an equation was obtained where Y represents oils. The main advantage of preserving lyophilized cultures is that they
Log CFU and X represents DT (Table 3). Using this equation it was pos- prevent loss of genetic resistance factors (Magee et al., 1997).
sible to determine the amount of each microorganism in determining In a previous work, Souza and Ohara (2003) verified that the micro-
the number of survivors in the preservative efficacy test. organisms typically used in the preservative efficacy test maintain good
Table 4 presents the detection time (DT) and Log of CFU/g calculated viability after the freeze-dried process and also the minimum inhibitory
using the equations obtained in the calibration curve (Table 3). It was concentration (MIC) using methylparaben, propylparaben and a combi-
possible to determine the CFU/g of S. aureus 7 days after the beginning nation of DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate remains
of the evaluation. For P. aeruginosa and A. niger, this determination the same before the process.
was possible only after 48 h. C. albicans presented no detection time According to our results, the use of freeze-dried microorganisms
even just after the sample inoculation. improved the sample inoculation for the challenge test, which results
The linear least square regression between electrical and pour plate in the most homogeneous mixture between sample and inoculum.
methods considering the microorganisms used in this study is present- Microorganisms kept in culture media can also suffer modifications
ed in Fig. 1. in their characteristics (Curry et al., 1993), bear contamination and
lose their viability (Lapage et al., 2001). Considering this aspect, in its
24th edition, the United States Pharmacopeia predicts that the viable
4. Discussion microorganism used in tests must be removed from the original ATCC
culture no more than five passages in the antimicrobial effectiveness
4.1. Challenge test using freeze-dried microorganism in the challenge test testing (Unites States Pharmacopeia, 2000).
When the results were compared to the British and European Phar-
The preservative efficacy test is described only for pharmaceuticals macopeias (European Pharmacopeia, 2007; British Pharmacopeia,
in the official compendia (European Pharmacopeia, 2007; British 2010) using criteria A for topical preparation which implies a Log reduc-
Pharmacopeia, 2010; Unites States Pharmacopeia, 2012). In 1981, The tion of 2.0 in 2 days, 3.0 in seven days, and no increase until the end of
Personal Care Products Council adopted the name of Cosmetic Toiletry the test, all the tests passed for bacteria (Table 1).
and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and presented guidelines for a meth- Comparing to the specification of USP 35 (Unites States
odology used to determine the preservative efficacy for cosmetics. Also, Pharmacopeia, 2012) for optic products which demands a reduction of
the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) (Magee et al., 1.0 log from the initial calculated count at 7 days and no increase from
the 14 day count at 28 days the samples also passed in the test, once
Table 1 more for both bacteria.
Average Log CFU/g of number of survivors of S. aureus ATCC 6538, P. aeruginosa ATCC 9027 If the criteria of CTFA (Magee et al., 1997) for water miscible person-
A. niger ATCC 16604 and C. albicans ATCC 10231 in the preservative efficacy test. al care is used, all samples also passed the test, which requires a reduc-
Time S. aureus P. aeruginosa C. albicans A. niger
tion of 99.9% in seven days and no increase to the end of the test period.
(Log CFU/g) (Log CFU/g) (Log CFU/g) (Log CFU/g) All tests performed presented a similar response compared to the
specifications indicating that freeze-dried organisms could be used as
T0 6.4 4.8 5.9 5.6
T2 6.3 4.5 4.7 – challenges in the preservative efficacy testing for both bacteria.
T4 6.2 4.3 3.4 5.6
T8 – – – 5.5
T24 4.7 2.9 b1 5.6 Table 3
T48 2.8 2.4 b1 5.2 Calibration curve equation for S. aureus (impedance), P. aeruginosa, C. albicans and A.
T7 b1 b1 b1 4.9 niger (capacitance).
T14 b1 b1 b1 4.9
Microorganisms Equation
T21 b1 b1 b1 4.6
T28 b1 b1 b1 4.7 S. aureus ATCC 6538 Y = −0.597X + 7.9865
P. aeruginosa ATCC 9027 Y = −0.5921X +8.2089
T0, T2, T4, T8, T24 and T48: enumeration immediately after contamination, 2, 4, 8, 24 and
C. albicans ATCC 10321 Y = −0.1736X + 7.3609
48 h, respectively.
A. niger ATCC 16404 Y = −0.1332X + 9.6186
T7, T14, T21 and T28: enumeration 7, 14, 21 and 28 days, respectively.
M.R.S. Ferreira et al. / Journal of Microbiological Methods 106 (2014) 104–109 107

Table 4
Detection Time (DT) and number of survivors (Log CFU/g) calculated using the calibration curve for S. aureus (impedance), P. aeruginosa and A. niger (capacitance).

Time S. aureus P. aeruginosa A. niger

DT (h) Log CFU/g DT (h) Log CFU/g DT (h) Log CFU/g

T0 6.50 6.13 8.30 5.29 37.58 6.61


5.80 6.55 8.20 5.35 37.90 6.57
T2 7.10 5.78 9.20 4.76 41.60 6.14
5.50 6.13 8.40 5.25 38.38 6.51
T4 7.30 5.66 10.00 4.29 – –
7.00 5.84 9.50 4.58 – –
T8 8.40 5.01 11.50 3.40 45.95 5.49
7.90 5.30 11.30 3.52 44.70 5.66
T24 10.50 3.76 16.7 1.67 49.05 5.09
11.70 3.05 14.62 2.44 49.03 4.65
T48 13.62 2.08 20.00 b1 49.23 5.06
14.82 2.79 19.4 b1 14.82 9.64
T7 29.6 b1 N48 b1 –
39.27 b1 N48 b1 –
T14 N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1
N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1
T21 N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1
N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1
T28 N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1
N48 b1 N48 b1 N100 b1

T0, T2, T4, T8, T24 and T48: enumeration immediately after contamination, 2, 4, 8, 24 and 48 h, respectively.
T7, T14, T21 and T28: enumeration 7, 14, 21 and 28 days, respectively.

Faster reduction was observed when C. albicans was used as a chal- It is also important to consider that this inoculum could be used in
lenge organism (Table 1) attending all specifications used in this study any sort of sample including liquid or semi-solid.
(Magee et al., 1997; European Pharmacopeia, 2007; British Pharmaco-
peia, 2010; Unites States Pharmacopeia, 2000.
A. niger (Table 1) was the most resistant microorganisms evaluated 4.2. Challenge test using the electrical methods to determine survivors
in the preservative system. Nonetheless this mold was within the guide-
lines for optic products stated by the United States pharmacopeia prod- The traditional method using the plate count technique has been
ucts having no increase from the initial calculation for the 28 day test conventionally used in the preservative efficacy test to verify the micro-
considering that it is necessary to evaluate the burden on the 7th, bial reduction (Curry et al., 1993; British Pharmacopeia, 2010; Unites
14th and 28th day. On the other hand, the test was not consistent States Pharmacopeia, 2012). However methods considered more rapid
with other guidelines (Magee et al., 1997; European Pharmacopeia, have been recommended to determine the number of microorganisms,
2007; British Pharmacopeia, 2010). including among them, electrical methods (DePasquale et al., 1985;
Once more, the use of freeze-dried inoculum presented good repeat- Jeffrey et al., 1989; Connolly et al., 1993; Muscatiello, 1993; Connolly
ability among the tests performed for fungi. et al., 1994; Pinto et al., 1999).
It is possible to conclude from the results that a freeze-dried inocu- These methods are based on the detection time (DT), which is the
lum could be used in the preservative efficacy test to challenge solid time that the microorganism takes to reach the threshold level neces-
samples. The main goal of this paper was to provide an innovative chal- sary for its detection (approximately 107 CFU/mL). Nevertheless this
lenge test using freeze-dried microorganisms and an electrical method time depends on the generation time of each microorganism presenting
to evaluate microbial growth. It was not our purpose to optimize the different curves (Jeffrey et al., 1989).
preservative system, considering different types of preservatives and On the other hand, if this method is used to determine the number of
their concentration in the formulation. Further studies using other pre- survivors in the preservative efficacy test that consists of using pure cul-
servative systems are needed to provide a better understanding of using tures of microorganism, the interference of the generation time would
this method in PET, since only one preservative was evaluated in this be eliminated and calibration curves could be constructed. Connolly
study. et al. (1993) concluded that the impedance method is the only one
that presented satisfactory results to be used in the challenge test
compared to the direct epifluorescence technique (DEFT) and ATP
bioluminescence (ATP –B).
Despite that the major advantage of this method consists of reducing
analysis time, this is not a determinant factor, since in the preservative
efficacy, the last evaluation of the sample burden is performed 28 days
after its contamination. The major advantage claimed for these methods
is that they are more economical in the use of materials, labor and the
results are obtained within a shorter time period than the 18–60 h typ-
ical for colony count methods (Connolly et al., 1993, 1994). Its use also
spares the need for multiple dilutions and exhaustive colony counting
in plates using the conventional method (DePasquale et al., 1985).
Comparing the results obtained using impedance for determining
the burden and the traditional method, S. aureus presented similar be-
havior as it was possible to detect this microorganism in a 48-hour
Fig. 1. Linear least square regression analysis for electrical and pour plate results using test and no recovery for the remaining 28 days. When these findings
S. aureus, P. aeruginosa and A. niger. are compared with the specifications adopted in this study (Magee
108 M.R.S. Ferreira et al. / Journal of Microbiological Methods 106 (2014) 104–109

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