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    Leather bag design pdf drawings and sizes

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    284 views126 pages

    Fahion Bag Design - Compress

    Uploaded by

    jagjitemir6014
    Leather bag design pdf drawings and sizes

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    BAG DESIGN A HANDBOOK FOR ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS FASHIONARY BAG DESIGN A HANDBOOK FOR ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS FASHIONARY CONTENTS l LIBRARY 05 Bags & Small Leather Goods 05 * Clutch & Handheld Bags 05 * Crossbody & Shoulder Bags 05 ® Backpacks & Waist Bags 06 ¢ Athletic & Functional Bags 06 * Trunks & Luggage 07 ® Leather Belts 07 ® Wallets & Purses 07 ® Leather Belts 07 * Other Small Leather Goods 08 Historical & Folk Bags 11 Signature Bags 14 Bag Details 14 * Handles & Straps 15 * Bag Closures 16 * Bag Sides 16 * Bag Corners 16 * Bag Bottoms 17 * Bag Pockets 17 ® Bag Interior Design 18 Bag Embellishments & Accessories 18 * Metal Buckles & Sliders 18 ¢ Plastic Buckles & Sliders 18 * Hooks & Rings 18 ® Magnetic Snap Buttons 18 * Grommets 18 e Bag / Purse Frames 18 * Cord Embellishments 19 * Metal Corners 19 ® Chains 19 « Sequins & Beads 20 « Zippers 20 ® Zipper Teeth 20 * Zipper Pulls 20 ® Bag Feet / Base Studs 21 * Bag Locks 21 * Metal Plates 21 * Bag Charms 71 ® Bag Accessories 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 Pa 31 32 34 34 35 36 37 38 39 IV 41 42 44 45 47 48 Vi 51 52 53 54 56 ANATOMY Handbag Anatomy Crossbody Bag Anatomy Backpack Anatomy Camera Bag Anatomy Luggage Anatomy Attaché Case Anatomy Belt Anatomy Wallet Anatomy BAG MAKING Bag Manufacturing Process Bag Making Tools Bag Patterns Envelope Clutch Pattern Handbag Pattern Bucket Bag Pattern Boston Bag Pattern Briefcase Pattern Backpack Pattern BAG LEATHERS & FABRICS Leather Overview Common Leather Types Other Common Fabrics for Bags Stabilizer / Interfacing for Bags BAG CARE & BUYING Bag Care Tools Bag Care & Maintenance MISCELLANEOUS Common Logo Placement Positions Books & Bookmarks Trade Fairs, Museums & Courses Spec Sheet & Range Plan Bag Glossary Vil 100 101 102 BAG TEMPLATES 103 104 Pouch 105 Cluctch 106 Envelope Clutch 107 Minaudiére 108 Kiss Lock Clutch 109 Wristlet 110 Box Bag 111 Doctor’s Bag 112 Boston Bag 113 Gladstone Bag 114 Handheld Handbag - Single Handle 116 Handheld Handbag - Double Handle 118 Handheld Handbag - Accordion Handbag 119 Handheld Handbag - Trapeze Hangbag 120 Handheld Handbag - Half Moon Bag 121 Handheld Handbag - Ruffle Bag Baguette Bag Hobo Bag VIII Strawbag / Beach Bag / Kenya Bag Shopper Bag - Double Handle 123 Shopper Bag - Cut-out Handle 124 Tote Bag - Zippered Top Tote Bag - Open Top 125 Fringe Bag Bucket Bag Accordion Handbag Canteen Bag Saddle Bag Saddle Bag - with Tassel Satchel Quilted Sling / Crossbody Bag Lady Camera Bag One Strap Bookbag / One Shoulder Backpack / Sling Backpack Belt Bag Waist Pack / Bum Bag Daypack Backpack Drawstring Backpack Knapsack Rucksack Satchel Backpack Security Pouch / Small Traveling Pouch Wash Bag / Cosmetic Bag Weekender Sports Duffel Bag Barrel Bag / Holdall Bowling Bag Bowling Bag - as Fashion |tem Messenger Bag / Courier Bag Field Bag Computer / Laptop Bag Camera Bag Hiking Backpack Golf Bag Hardside Luggage Softside Luggage - Cabin Luggage Continental / Long Wallet Zip-Around Wallet Bi-fold Wallet Key Case MEASUREMENTS Common Bag Measurements Size Guide for Backpacks, Luggage and Small Leather Goods Pocket Size Recommendation LIBRARY BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS SIGNATURE BAGS BAG DETAILS BAG EMBELLISMENTS & ACCESSORIES BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS CLUTCH & HANDHELD BAGS LJ ache ere. toe , iP pomoanone popes poseovssnas Mogan aS Pouch Clutch Envelope Clutch Box Clutch Minaudiére Kiss Lock Clutch (refer to P. 60) (refer to P. 61) (refer to P. 62) (refer to P. 63) (refer to P. 64) Bracelet Bag Wristlet Bermuda Bag Basket Knot Bag Pochette (refer to P. 65) Hat Box Box Bag Doctor's Baz Boston Bag Gladstone Bag Handheld Handbag (refer to P. 66) (refer to P. 67) (refer to P. 68) (refer to F. 69) (refer to P. 70-75) CROSSBODY & SHOULDER BAGS Baguette Bag Hobo Bae Straw Bag / Beach Bag / Muff Bag Shopper Bag /ToteBag Shopper Bag / Tote Bag (refer to P. 74) (refer to P. 77) Kenya Bag (refer to P. 79-BO) (refer to P. 81-82) (refer to P, 78) Woven Tote Fringe Bag Bucket Bag Squaw Bag Accordion Handbag Canteen Bag (refer to B83) (refer to P. 84) (refer to P. 85) (refer to P, 86) One Strap Bookbag / Saddle Bag Satchel Quilted Sling / Lady Camera Bag One Shoulder Backpack / Haversack (refer to P. 87-88) (refer to P. 89) Crossbody Bag (refer to P. 91) Sling Backpack Krafer to P90} (refer to P. 92) BACKPACKS & WAIST BAGS : ; t" Belt Bag Waist Pack / Bum Bag Sports Waist Belt Bag Day Pack Backpack Drawstring Backpack (refer to P, 93) (refer to P. 94) (refer to P. 95) (refer to P. 96) BAGS &SMALLLEATHERGOODS 5 BACKPACKS & WAIST BAGS (CONT'D) Randoseru Knapsack Army Duffel Bag School Bag Rucksack Satchel Backpack (refer to P. 98) eis ie cae (refer to P, 99) (refer to P. 100) books around campus ATHLETIC & FUNCTIONAL BAGS Security Pouch / Wash Bag / Cosmetic Bag Dopp Kit Weekender Sports Duffel Baz Barrel Bag / Holdall (refer to P. 103) (refer to P, 104) (refer to P. 105) Small Traveling Pouch (refer to P, 102) (refer to P. 101) ‘i: Bowling Bag Safari Bag Messenger Bag / Field Bag Battle Bag Computer Bag / Laptop Bag (refer to P. 106-107) always made of canvas fabrics Courier Bag (refer to P. 109) {refer to P. 110) (refer to P. 108) Trunk Bag Saddle / Pannier Bag Camera Bag Lens Bag Diaper Bag Packing Cubes placed atthe backafmotorcycles 3 hag carried in pairs attached to the (refer to P. 111) sides of a bicycle or motorcycle Tennis Bag Hiking Backpack Golf Bag Gig Bag / Guitar Bag Portfolio Bag Garment Bag (refer to P, 112) (refer to P. 113) TRUNKS & LUGGAGE iis Cosmestic Case Pilot Case Attaché Case | Rigid Case Briefcase Suitcase 6 BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS TRUNKS & LUGGAGE (CONT’D) Camera Hard Case Instrument Case Hardside Luggage Softside Luggage Trunk Camp Trunk (e.g. French Horn Case) (refer to P. 114-115) {refer to P. 116-117) WALLETS & PURSES © lL [— Purse Coin Purse Clasp Purse Continental / Long Wallet Zip-around Wallet Credit Card Wallet (refer to P. 118) (refer to P, 119) Bi-Fold Wallet Tri-fold Wallet Wallet with Chain Wallet with Strap Travel / Passport Wallet (refer to P. 120) Phone Case Wallet LEATHER BELTS Cee CTE! p| Ss Cinch Belt D-Ring Belt 5 Braided Leather Belt Surcingle Belt wowen belt with beather tab and metal buckle sgn ENO ES 7 a At Sti Western Belt Cartridge Belt Money Belt Snake Belt Sam Browne Belt Kidney Belt OTHER SMALL LEATHER GOODS _\\ Key Case Glasses Case Glasses Pouch Card Holder Writing Case Money Clip {refer to P. 121) Tablet Case / Sleeve Phone Case Luggage Tag Knife Sheath Manicure Set Case Pencil Case BAGS & SMALL LEATHER GOODS ? HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS MEDIEVAL PERIOD (5™ - 15™ CENTURY) Embroidered Purse Pouch Purse Pouch Girdle & Almoner Escarcelle France France c. 1200-1300 France England England c. 1170-90 c. 1200-1300 c. 1200-1300 c. 1300 ¢, 1300-1400 Gypsere Penner & Inkhorn Purse Reliquary Bag Case for Enamel Diptych Leather Pouch England England Spain Rhineland England England c, 1300-1400 ¢. 1300-1400 c. 1400-1480 14th century 14th century 14th century RENAISSANCE PERIOD (15™ - 17™ CENTURY) ‘ Calthorpe Purse Purse Sweetmeat Purse Sweetmeat Purse Orawstring Pouch Gaming Bag England Italy England England England France c. 1540 c. 1550 c. 1580-1600 c. 1590 16th century c. 1600 Sweetmeat Purse Sweetmeat Purse Tapestry Purse Purse Sweetmeat Purse Drawstring Purse England England France England England England c. 1600 c, 1600 c. 1600 c, 1600-50 c. 1630-50 c. 1634 Bp ) Sweatmeat Purse Sweatmeat Purse Sweatmeat Purse Sweatmeat Purse Letter Case Purse England France France France France England c. 1670 c. 1670 c. 1670 c. 1670-80 c. 1670 c. 1680 Sweatmeat Purse Bridal Purse Bridal Purse Purse Purse Purse France France France England England England c. 1680-90 c. 1680 c. 1680-99 17th century 17th century 17th century 6 HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT (17™ - 19™ CENTURY) RO Sweetmeat Purse England Pocket Case c.1750 Letter Case France Tie-on Pocket England France c.1700 c. 1740-50 c.1750 go rf Long Purse Knitted Silk Purse Reticule Silk Bag England with Finger Ring England France England early 19th century early 19th century late 18th century = late 18th century Pocket Case England c. 1750-75 Reticule Europe early 19th century Tie-on Pocket England c. 1760 Reticule England c. 1800 9 é A Reticule Tie-on Pocket Misers Purse Miser’s Purse Purse Purse England England England Europe England England c. 1800-09 c. 1800-19 c. 1800-19 c. 1815-19 c. 1815-19 c. 1825-29 Drawstring Purse Canvas Bag with Beads Purse Reticule Miser’s Purse Miser’s Purse England England France England England England c. 1825-29 c. 1830 c. 1830-49 c. 1840-49 c. 1840-49 c. 1840-49 Bag Reticule Bag Reticule Reticule Bag England England England England England England c, 1850-59 c. 1850-59 c. 1850 c. 1850-59 c. 1850-59 c. 1850-59 Workbag Leather Hand and Velvet Bag Metal Purse Leather Hand and Workbaz England Wrist Bag France Eng.and Wrist Bag England ¢. 1875-79 Germany c. 1880 c. 1880 Germany c. 1880 c. 1880 Crocheted Coin Purse with Reticule Card Case Pocket Lingerie Bag Lingerie Bag Perfume Bottle on Top India Europe England Germany Germany c. 1860 c. 1860-65 c. 1860-65 c, 1860-65 c, 1860-65 HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS France c. 1855 AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT (17™ - 19™ CENTURY) (CONT’D) Lingerie Bag Juge-shaped Coin Purse Handbag Handbag with Telescope Belt Bag Chatelaine Purse Germany Germany France England England / Germany England c. 1860-65 c. 1865 c. 1860-69 c. 1870 c. 1870 c. 1870-75 Gladstone Bag Hunting Bag Handbag Handbag Handbag Gladstone Bag Europe Switzerland England England England Scotland c. 1880-85 c. 1890 c. 1890 c. 1890 c.1890 c. 1890 Chateline Belt with Leather Bags Chatelaine with Chateline Leather Chateline Chatelaine with Germany Germany Notebook & Pencil England France Notebook & Pencil c. 1890 c. 1890 England 19th century 19th century Germany 19th century 19th century FOLK AND TRADITIONAL BAGS FROM EAST TO WEST Inro Kinchaku Yunnan Traditional Bag Oing Belt Bag Hebao / Purse in Bokjumeoni | japan Japan China China Ru-Vi shape Fortune Pouch China Korea Bayong Jhola Potli Beads & Shell Bag Dilly Baz Woollen Canta Philippines India India Africa Australian Turkey Medicine Bag Kiowa Pipe Bag Ojibwe Bandolier Bag Métis Fire Bag Sporran Draktvaskor America America America Canada Scotland Sweden 10 HISTORICAL & FOLK BAGS SIGNATURE BAGS DESIGNER SIGNATURE BAGS {brand name in alphabetical order] Pashli Pons Backpack De Manta Clutch Knuckle Box Clutch Marti Prisma — 3.1 Phillip Lim - Agneskovacs - Alexander Mcqueen ~ Alexander McQueen - Alexander Wang = Alexander Wang Rocco Geo Bag I'm Not A Plastic Bag City Veneta Bag Classic Bucket Bag - Alexander Wang - Alviero Martini — Anya Hindmarch ~ Balenciaga - Bottega Veneta - Building Block Cylinder Sling Bag Classic Box Bag Luggage Tote Trapeze Vertical Cabas Tote 2:55 ~ Building Block = Celine - Celine - Celine = Celine Boy Classic Flap Bag — Chanel —- Chanel Sweet Charity Bag Lady Dior / Princess Bag Saddle Bag Mini Bucket Priscillini Miss Sicily = Christian Louboutin ~ Christian Dior = Christian Dior - Coach — Corto Maltedo - Dolce & Gabbana Baguette Peekaboo Petite 2jours Kanken Antigona Centenary - Fendi with Bag Bugs — Fendi = Fjallraven - Givenchy — Fendi — Globe Trotter ll : 4 ay | f Nightingale Pandora Box Saint Louis PM Tote Jackie Bamboo Classic Top Soho Disco Bag - Givenchy — Givenchy - Goyard - Gueci Handle = Gueci = Gueci SIGNATURE BAGS 11 Speedy Birkin Kelly Constance Evelyne Little America Backpack = Gucci - Hermés —- Hermés — Hermés - Hermés — Herschel Supply Co. Bao Bao Chandra Clutch Pebble Leather Backpack K/Klassic Cedar Street Kalifornia Gommato Bag - Issey Miyake = Jimmy Choo - Kara ~ Karl Lagerfeld — Kate Spade — KENZO Alex Black Widow Tote Amazona Puzzle Flamenco Knot Bag Le Pliage Tote Alma — LES PETITS JOUEURS - Loewe - Loewe - Loewe - Longchamp = Louis Vuitton Classic Neverfull Pégase Légére 55 Speedy Twist Bucket Bag Classic Q Lil Ukita Bag - Louis Vuitton = Louis Vuitton — Louis Vuitton ~ Louis Vuitton = Mansur Gavriel = Mare Jacobs Pretty Nylon Tote Stark Backpack Selma Matelassé LeatherBag _—-Vitello Lux Bow Bag Alexa — Marc Jacobs -MCM - Michael Kors = Miu Miu - Miu Miu - Mulberry Bayswater Lily Ballet Pan Am Bag Tanker Prada Backpack — Mulberry ~ Mulberry = Nina Ricci — Pan Am ~ Porter = Prada Tessuto Fiocco Tessuto Gaufre Tote P51 Ricky Leo Tote Topsa - Prada — Prada - Proenza Schouler - Ralph Lauren = Rebecca Minkoff = Rimowa 12 SIGNATURE BAGS Cabas ¥ Tote Classic Sac De Jour Classic Monogram Ginny Sofia Box Albian - Saint Laurent - Saint Laurent ~ Saint Laurent — Salvatore Ferragamo - Salvatore Ferragamo - Sophie Hulme The Correspondent Falabella Classic Satchel D Bag Ella Truss Woven Large Tote — Steamline Luggage = Stella Mccartney - The Cambridge Satchel - Tod's - Tory Burch — Truss Company My Rockstud Rockstud Tote Medusa Liberty Tote Bombette ~ Valentino — Valentina - Versace ~ Victoria Beckham ~ Viktor & Rolf AVANT-GARDE BAGS (brand name in alphabetical order} Chanel Girl Natural Arid Clutch Nile Crane Bag Rae Harness Day Bag ~ Chanel - Chiyome — Cote & Ciel = Digest Design Workshop — Finell — Fleet Ilya Collapse Series Artist Pallet Glove Bag Lunch Bag Pyramid Cupcake — Frery ~ Jacquemus — Jean Paul Gaultier ~ Jil Sander — Jil Sander — Judith Leiber Gift Box Bag Boxed Clutch Petite Malle Amor Fati Arm Candy Biker Jacket Shoulder Bag — KENZO = Louis Vuitton —- M2Malletier - Maison Margiela = Moschino Baby Bow ice Cream Bag Tube of Lipstick Bag Mr & Nirs West, Cherry Knuckleduster C’est Ahh... Shoulder Bag ~ Niels Peeraer ~ Nila Anthony — Nila Anthony ALove Story Clutch ~ Yazbukey = Olympia Le-Tan — Undercover SIGNATURE BAGS 13 BAG DETAILS HANDLES & STRAPS Top Handle / Flat Top Handle Bamboo Handle Cut-out Handle Acrylic / Resin / Plastic Handle Wooden Handle Rope with Loop Rope Handle with Loop Scroll-in Handle Knotted Handle Loop Handle Attachment Flat Handle Handle with Ring and Round Handle with Ring and Square Adjustable Buckle Handle Leather Handle with Clasp Tab Tab u Rolled Handle Braided Leather Handle Fendi Wide Strap Crossbody Strap with Double Buckle Crossbody Adjustable Buckle Strap {\ Beaded Handle Leather-woven Chain Strap Curb Chain Handle / Leather Tote Handle with Toggles Handle with Chain Woven Straps with Fringe Rope Handle Two-Way Adjustable Webbing Handle Rattan Handle Trim Crossbody and Shoulder Strap 14 BAG DETAILS CLOSURES Open Top Open Top with Snap Tab Open Top with Button Open Top with Magnetic Open Top with Toggle Closure Closure Closure Snap Closure Zipper Top Closure Two-way Zipper Top Closure Down Zipper Drawstring Opening Purse Frame / Kiss Lock Closure Full-flap Front Half-flap Front Flap with Hidden Magnetic Flapwith Snap Button Closure Flap with Turn Lock Closure Closure Flap with Flip-lock Closure Flap Top with Squeeze-lock Flap with Push-lock / Press-lock = Flap with Paperclip Clasp Flap with Swing Lock Closure Closure tp a Flap Top with Gancio Flip-lock Flap with Pin-lock Closure Flap with Chain-clip and Ring Flap with Buckled Straps Flap with Tab Closure and Belted Closure Closure Detail Flap Top with Tab/Slot Flap with Front Strap and Flap with Tum Clasp and Lock Fold-over Flap with Belted Strap Fold-over Flap with Top Zipper Closure Hidden Magnetic Closure and Magnetic Closure BAG DETAILS 15 BAG SIDES Gusset Accordion Gusset Side with Button Tabs Side Panel Winged Side Zippered Draw Strap on Sides with Snap Expandable Body BAG CORNERS Leather Corner Shaped Leather Corner Leather Corner with Metal Corer Tassel Corner Studded Corner Decorative Stitching 7 C Multiple Stud Decorative Buckle Corner Reinforced Corer with Zippered Corner Eyelet Corner Folded Corner Corner Screw Head BAG BOTTOMS Square Studded Bottom Round Studded Bottom 5-Studded Bottom 6-Studded Bottom Multiple Studded Bottom Studded Bottom with Corer Stitching [oy Studded Bottom with Studded Bottom with Studded Bottom with Envelope Bottom Bottom with Corner Extra Leather Bottom for Vertical Seam Horizontal Seam Reinforcement Tab Guards Reinforcement 16 BAG DETAILS BAG POCKETS ) Flap Pocket ih Loop and Button Pocket a Zipper Gusset Pocket BAG INTERIOR DESIGN a Open Pocket Dx oar errr rao Sree nt eT TET Full-sized Zipper Pocket Laptop / Tablet Protective Pocket ) Flap Pocket with Snap Button ) - Kiss Lock Pocket Flap Pocket with Insert Loop ) Zipper Gusset Pocket with Zipper Pocket with Leather End Tab Divided Open Pocket oo Expandable Gusset Open Pocket Half-sized Zipper Pocket Zipper Pocket with Leather Trim Laptop / Tablet Protective Pocket with Phone, Charger Phone Pocket with Pen and Card Holder Oouble Strap Saddle Pocket ) Shirred Patch Pocket ) Zipper Pocket with Tassel eI Credit Card Pocket 4 Zipper Pocket with Shaped Leather Trim and Key Holder Full-sized Zipper Pocket with Phone, Pen and Gadget Holder BAG DETAILS i7 BAG EMBELLISHMENTS & ACCESSORIES } @ Buckle Set Half Roller Buckle Double Tongue Roller Full Skate Buckle Full Buckle Half Buckle Semi-circle Buckle Buckle Circle Buckle Oval Buckle Western Buckle Hexagon Buckle Octagon Buckle Belt Clasp Full Slider PLASTIC BUCKLES & SLIDERS meeodd] 0 Plastic Rectangle Ring Reducing Loop Side Release Buckle Center Release Buckle Tri-Glide Strap Adjuster Plastic D-Ring HOOKS & RINGS A, \ © Oodad Snap Hook Bolt Snap Hook Swivel Lobster Clasp Heavy D-Ring Light D-Ring Unwelded D-Ring Welded D-Ring MAGNETIC SNAP BUTTONS GROMMETS ©O ©) —— (c>\ <> Prong Magnetic Sew-in Magnetic . Concealed LeatherBasedSew- Circle Shaped Oval Shaped Square Shaped Floral Shaped Snap Snap Magnetic Snap on Magnetic Snap BAG / PURSE FRAMES CORD EMBELLISHMENTS fi \ fF NAR 6 Cord Lock {Stopper Double Cord Lock / Internal Wire Bag Screw-in Frame Cord End Stopper Glue-in Frame Sew-in Frame Frame 18 «BAG EMBELLISHMENTS & ACCESSORIES METAL CORNERS J J 4A _& — V-shape Curved V-shape Triangle Filigree Triangle Quarter Circle Curved Edge Long Rectangle ) WS | Lt ww” YB sb we we U-shape V-shape Triangle End Tip Belt End Tip 3-Eared Thin 3-Eared Triangle 3-Eared Quarter ‘ Circle CHAINS Cable Chain Trace Chain Curb Chain Uniformed Breadth and Thickness, Delicate and in Finer Width TST AS rSniSyas Scroll Chain Byzantine Chain Double-link Cable Chain Belcher Chain Woven Leather Chain Bar Chain Venetian /Box Chain LLL CEL LCL CELE LG DADE hobo ds ee Ce oe Oe ee ee ed _ Ce ee a Cocoon Chain Snake Chain Spiga Chain ue SSS SS SS S59 2525282 LLL OLLIE Herringbone Chain French Rope Chain Cobra Chain SEQUINS & BEADS ® @ G&G x © Cup Sequin Flat Sequin Large Paillette Star Sequin Heart Sequin Leaf Sequin Faceted Round Bead es fF © @ Bd OQ Seed Beads Bugle Beads Metal Bead Wooden Ball Navette Rectangular Pear Faceted Baguette Gemstone Gemstone Gemstone Faceted with Mount Gemstone with Mount BAG EMBELLISHMENTS & ACCESSORIES 19 ZIPPERS Closed End Open End Invisible Two-way / Bottom-to-bottom Bag Type/Head-to-head ZIPPER TEETH Molded Plastic Teeth = OL (GT RRORE GAARA EE Hee ee eee ee (BU ea UME a) Nylon Coil Teeth — (eee rr I API AAR rr ar arnnrr i i-irarriri-ireh rrr iro-ihiririr a orirorar roar Metal Teeth Waterproof ZIPPER PULLS Non-lock Slider Auto-lack Slider Pin Lock Slider Double Pull Key Lock Slider Cord Pull Paracord Pull Chain Pull Tape Pull Silicone Pull Leather Pull Self-knot Leather Braided Leather Tassel Pull Faceted Pull Pull BAG FEET / BASE STUDS So MDYI WY Pyramid Rivet Round Head Cone-shaped Flat Top Bifurcated Square Rivet Screw Rockstud Flat Top 20 BAG LOCKS Turn Lock Double Turn Lock Squeeze Lock | , =] Combination Lock Flip Lock Push Lock / Press Lock Lock and Key 3 —— | Lock with Trigger Hook Swing Lock Pin Lock Pin Lock and Key Toggle Clasp Kiss Lock Safety Clasp Celine Clasp Lock Chanel CC Twist Lock Chloe Turn Lock Ferragamo Gancio Hermés Turn Lock Louis Vuitton Versace Lock Squeeze Lock Lock and Key METAL PLATES VV CC) Fastoneny Oval Rectangle Notched Triangle Stitched Leather Tag Letter Logo BAG CHARMS Hanging Tassel Hanging Covered Key / Bag Charm Mini Bag Fob Pom Pom Bag Fob Clochette Key Holder Wrist Strap Hook Strap Keychain Luggage Tag Handle Keeper Retractable Cord Safety Rope Luggage Handle Wrap Purse Hook / Shoulder Strap Pocket Waterproof Handbag Waterproof Backpack Purse Hanger Cover Cover Carabiner BAG ACCESSORIES Shoulder Pad | Shoulder Guard 21 wae ANATOMY HANDBAG ANATOMY CROSSBODY BAG ANATOMY BACKPACK ANATOMY CAMERA BAG ANATOMY LUGGAGE ANATOMY ATTACHE CASE ANATOMY BELT ANATOMY WALLET ANATOMY ANATOMY HANDBAG ANATOMY Top Handle Handle Holder / Handle Attachment Tab Front Flap Lock Closure Strap Gusset Bag Tag / Fob Piping Base Studs / Feet / Protective Feet EXPLODED VIEW OF A HANDBAG Top Handle Metal Loop Rin Handle Holder / © G ce Handle Attachment Tab —_____ 2a re Front Flap Bag Tag / Fob Interior Zipper Pocket Key Halder Gusset Bag Bottom 8 Base Studs / Feet 8 e—<§$§£@§$- Protective Feet ANATOMY 23 CROSSBODY BAG ANATOMY Metal Eyelet Quilted Body Front Flap Chain and Woven Leather Strap Press Lock EXPLODED VIEW OF A CROSSBODY BAG Front Flap Snap Button Metal Eyelet Interior ‘Slip Bag Bottom Open Pocket Press Lock Packet 24 «=ANATOMY BACKPACK ANATOMY Shoulder Harness Handle Sternum Strap Zipper Padded Shoulder Strap Decorative Panel Strap Elastic Compression Strap Hip Padding Mesh Side Water Bottle Pocket EXPLODED VIEW OF A BACKPACK Shoulder Harness Handle Interior Zipper Pocket My : oe és Shh re eee oe SY Sah ad Seige o oO a we 5 . Elastic Compression Strap a Poet cs oe + ‘ Interior Open Pocket Bag Bottom CAMERA BAG ANATOMY Mi Penne Front Flap Top Stitching Side Pocket Flap Shoulder Strap Snap Closure Side Cargo Pocket Metal Ring EXPLODED VIEW OF A CAMERA BAG Front Flap Fully Padded Compartment for Camera and Other Accessories Protective Laptop Packet Velcro Removable Camera Insert Zipper Pocket Name Tag / Business Card Holder Zipper Front Packet Bag Bottom 26 ©6 ANATOMY LUGGAGE ANATOMY Telescopic Handle Top Handle Add-a-bag Holder Corer Guard / Trim Front Zipper Pocket TSA Combination Lock Side Handle Polycarbonate Case Wheel EXPLODED VIEW OF A LUGGAGE Flexible Divider with Zipper Pocket Zippered Net Cover Polycarbonate Case ATTACHE CASE ANATOMY Top Handle Combination Lock Frame Corner Guard / Trim INTERIOR OF AN ATTACHE CASE Lining File Divider Pocket Strap Zipper Pocket Open Pocket Business Card Holder Pen Holder Removable Spacer Velcro Strap Laptop Holder BELT ANATOMY Edge Tip / Point Lining Keeper / Loop Punch Hole / Adjuster Hole Buckle Prong / Tongue Top Stitching WALLET ANATOMY Extra Cash Pocket / Currency Divider Zipper Lining Cash Pocket ID Card Window Zipper Coin Pocket Card Pockets Gusset ANATOMY 29 Nae BAG MAKING ~ BAG MANUFACTURING PROCESS —~ BAG MAKING TOOLS — — BAG PATTERNS BAG MANUFACTURING PROCESS LE cA BAG MANUFACTURING PROCESS 34 BAG MAKING TOOLS GENERAL BAG MAKING TOOLS Dressmaking Scissors Pinking Shears Duckbill / Appliqué Scissors Rotary Point Cutter Finger Presser Scissors specifically for Reduces the bulkofthe seam The flat, semi-circular With its point cutter and Used for pressing seams, cutting fabric. and stops raw edges of fabric shaped blade is designed rounded blade, it can easily pleats and tucks. from fraying. to hold backing fabric. tt cut tight comers for bags. can reduce the bulk of bag seams. Loop Turner Bodkin Compass Thimble Seam Ripper A convenient tool for turning It can be attached to a cord Ameasuringtoolthatcanbe Usedforprotectingthefinger Used for unpicking seams, a fabric tube inside out ta to quickly thread it through a opened to any required width when hand-stitching, create a fabric strap. fabric tube. and used to create a parallel line as a guide for cutting. 22, Ya Pins Hand-stitching Needle Tallor’s Chalk Hera Marker Pliers (For Hardware) Used for keeping fabric Used for stitching in places Leaves marks before sewing. Creates subtle creases on Opens or closes metal together when sewing. where the sewing machine fabric for easy stitching. hardware e.g. for attaching cannot reach. chains onto a handbag \ : zz Grommet Plier Saddler's Punch Steam Iron Sleeve Ironing Board Designed to insert metal Used for punching holes of Used for making perfect Together with the steamiron, Used for seam pressing rings or eyelets. different sizes in fabric. seams with itshighheatand _—_it is used for making perfect at the later stages of bag steam, seams. making. cH ANE J) Mn LHL TN NL a An alternative way for Holds seams together when Create marks on fabric when A flexible tape made from a A ruler strong enough to sticking pieces together sewing. making quilted fabric. non-stretch material. retain a perfect straight edge when sewing is not an for cutting. option. 320 BAG MAKING TOOLS SEWING MACHINES & MACHINE FEET Hier: bedl Bewrtnns aetiiee Cylinder Arm Sewing A must-have tool for bag Machine making. ltis a machine used Once the bag takes ona for stitching fabric and other = shape, it gets harder to sew materials together with ona flat-bed machine, A thread. cylinder arm machine would be a perfect alternative. Piping Foot Zipper Foot Used specifically for sewing multiple layers of fabric Roller Foot It has a roller attached and is used for sewing heavy seams or uneven surfaces. Free-motion Darning Foot Teflon / Leather Foot Made of resin with a super smooth Teflon® coating on the sole of the foot, itis specifically used for sewing ‘sticky’ fabrics, e.g. leather, vinyl, PVC, suede, etc. Also known as a ‘Patchwork foot", it has a built-in guide which keeps the fabric in exactly 1/4" position. The tunnel groove onthe sole A foot used specifically for ofthe footkeepsthecordsin sewing zippers. It can be position. adjusted from left to right so the needle can stitch very clase to the zipper. LEATHER BAG MAKING TOOLS It gives maximum freedom for quilting or embroidering in any curve. Being transparent, it offers maximum visibility and control especially when working with intricate designs. Self-healing Cutting Mat Scalpel Acutting knife with a very A knife used as a skiver. sharp blade, used forpattern Round beveled, hand cutting. sharpened edges. Brush Rolling Spreader Used for brushing rubber For applying uniform adhesive on leather. pressure to the surface of adhesive. Comprising a circular blade that rotates, itis a practical tool for achieving both straight and curved lines. It can easily cut through multiple layers of fabrics, which cannot be done precisely with scissors, A rubber solution that is used for attaching leather A pair of super sharp blades for cutting lighter weight leather, Leather Edge Paint Gives a pleasing finish to the edges of leather. ee oS A self-healing synthetic cutting surface used for pattern cutting. LE Common Edge Tool Bevels and rounds off edges" of straps and all soft leather. A punch for punching holes An adhesive tape with a of different sizes on leather. slight stretch. A pointed tool used for piercing patterns or materials to create location points a5 a guide for cutting Used for piercing and passing through tough materials such as leather, suede and vinyl without tearing. A small hammer used for setting rivets and eyelets. BAG MAKINGTOOLS 33 BAG PATTERNS ENVELOPE CLUTCH PATTERN Front Flap Lining "Interior Zipper Pocket Main Body Main Body Lining Bag Side Facing Bag Side Lining Bag Side Bag Side Lining Bag Side Bag Side Facing 34 = BAG PATTERNS HANDBAG PATTERN Bottom Front Body HO UU Bag Side tu Bag Side Back Body & Flap Handle Attachments Handle Strap Front Strap meee? Mea : + . * . : ' * : ) iat : : BAG PATTERNS 35 BUCKET BAG PATTERN Main Body SARE RSE EEE REE SEE RE RE RRR Re Se : : : : + > she + Main Body Facing SPREE EERE RE Re REE RR REE EERE ERE REE RE Ree eee Main Body Lining Bottom Bottom Lining 36 «©6 BAG PATTERNS BOSTON BAG PATTERN Piping th Cc Handle Attachments Handle Attachments Strap . * : Main Body Lining interior Open Pocket Interior Zipper Pocket Top Zipper Closure Side Panel Lining Side Panel Side Panel Bottom Stud Reinforcement © OO ®@ Bottom Main Body Main Body BAG PATTERNS 37 BRIEFCASE PATTERN Top Handle ‘ Top Handle Lining B idl mean: Bag Side Handle Attachments Front Pocket Bag Bottom Main Body Main Body Lining Front Flap Front Flap Lining Back Panel / Back Pocket Back Pocket Lining 38 BAG PATTERNS BACKPACK PATTERN Handle Attachments WU WU Strap Attachment on Bag Body V4 Front Pocket Flap Front Pocket Back Strap Attachment Band Front Pocket Lining Front Pocket Gusset Main Body Back Main Body Front Gusset Side / Bottom Panel Gusset Side / Bottom Panel Gusset Front Flap Gusset Front Panel Shoulder Strap eee eT Poe ro Shoulder Strap nn RR ee eT RR REE EEE RE RR ee BAGPATTERNS 39 PART IV BAG LEATHERS gt aes LEATHER OVERVIEW COMMON LEATHER TYPES OTHER COMMON FABRICS FOR BAGS STABILIZER / INTERFACING FOR BAGS ] LEATHER OVERVIEW SUBDIVISIONS OF LEATHER C- Shoulder «+000 cece e cee ee ete eeeeeenee scenes Falr Value, 32% of the hide D- Head, Belly ----++++eeresevererereeeerenes Poor Value, 25% of the hide ete ce ees ceeene eeneee eeeeeereeewea es Grain line COMMON TANNING METHODS Vegetable-tanned leather Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannins and other ingredients found in different vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in bark mills, wood, leaves, fruits and roots and other similar sources. Chrome-tanned leather Also known as wet blue, chrome tanning is the most common tanning method due to its cost and time needed. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable- tanned leather and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned leather. More esoteric colors can be dyed. Aldehyde-tanned leather Also known as wet white, aldehyde tanning uses glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. The leather is often seen in automobiles and shoes for infants. Rawhide Rawhide is made by soaking thin skin into lime and then stretching it while it is dry. Itis stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather. It can be cut into cord and made inte shoelaces. CLASSIFICATION OF LEATHER Less Imperfection 2nd Best Grade Top Grain Lots of Imperfections Most common high-end leather, sanded surface. Top Grade Full Grain Hides that have not been sanded, buffed or snuffed. Finish: Aniline, semi-aniline Aniline Full Grain Leather Belting Leather Nappa Leather Medium Grade Corrected Grain Sanded surface, artificial grain impressed. Nubuck Leather Embossed Leather Finish: Aniline, semi- Finish: Semi-aniline, Patent Leather aniline, plemented pigmented ke atiisi alia Reh aN ARS ReWRA SERENE i Anatomy of Animal Skin Split into = Suede : layers Split : Created from the fibrous part Byeaat Leamiel De ; split fram top grain. : junctionof = ferret Top Can be further split into aC ther {Grain & Colum t < i multiple layers. ic : Corium Split : j (Suede) : : Lowest Grade : Leather scraps . Reconstituted Leather scraps bonded Bonded Leather . or? : together with latex binders : Flesh : to create similar looks as + + + + + : genuine leather. GRADING SYSTEM THICKNESS SYSTEM CONVERSION Ounces Thickness Ounces Thickness Ounces Thickness AGrade —- No imperfection, marks or scars a 1 ———-Ss 0.4mm 6 2.4mm li 4.4mm BGrade - 5-10% imperfection ei CGrade — 10-20% imperfection 20 — 0.8mm 7 2.8mm 2 BD cam DGrade - 20-30% imperfection 3 me 1.2 mm 8 3.2mm 13 aa 5.2mm E Grade - 30-40% imperfection . 4 1.6mm 9 BD a.com 14 5.6mm FGrade — Factory rejected 5 He 2.0mm 10 pes 4.0 mm 15 6.0mm LEATHER OVERVIEW 41 COMMON LEATHER TYPES _ 42 COMMON LEATHER TYPES CATTLE PIGSKIN Most leather is made of cattle skin. Structure varies across the whole hide, strong. Usage: A very common bag shell material BUFFALO Strong, tough, rubbery feel, pebbly appearance, thick. Usage: Bag shell material, gloves ‘SHEEP ‘hg Good heat insulation. Thin, soft, loose fibrous structure. Loose grain surface and light substance with soft feel, very porous. Low durability, Usage: Bag shell material, lining DEERSKIN tm Tough, soft, supple, very stretchy. ‘Washable and abrasion resistant. Usage: Handbags, wallets High breathability. Soft, thin, supple, — durable, relatively tough with tight grain. Common hide for suede. Usage: Quality bag shell material : y SNAKE as Great variation according to the type of snake, distinctive pattern, lightweight, strong, papery feel. Usage: Luxury bag shell material, decoration 1k te a fe A 3 a vee he CALF b | Slightly rubbery, fine grain, little variation across the skin. Usage: Higher quality handbags Strong, thin, fine grain, regular pattern, papery feel. Usage: Bag shell material, Balenclaga's The City LAMBSKIN “a, The softest, thinnest, most supple type of skin, Buttery texture and finely grained. Elastic, very form-fitting, stretches well and tends to reshape after wearing. Usage: Luxury bag shell material, Chanel 2.55 Similar to deerskin except very heavy and much thicker. Usage: Bag shell material, wallets ALLIGATOR = Thick in the bend and thin in the belly and limbs. Sealy, supple (belly), tough, durable. ‘Usage: Luxury bag shell material, Hermés Kelly, FROG / TOAD a Lightweight, thin, strong, great variation depending on the species. Usage: Bag shell material, decoration OSTRICH » One of the finest and most durable types of skins in the world. Unique bumpy texture. Flexible, pliable, durable and soft, very strong. Usage: Bag shell material, favored by many major fashion houses such as Hermés, Prada, Gucci, and Louls Vuitton | SALMON

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