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Nº 57

Nº 57 11€
Armour Modelling Magazine
PANZER ACES

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PortadaPA57.indd 1 9/3/18 17:09

 LANDSCAPES OF WAR
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Interior Portada.indd 1 7/3/18 20:25
 PANZER ACES Nº 57 2017

2 URAL 4320 BM21 GRAD

Undertaking a truck like this in the 1/48 scale and in resin isn’t in every modeler’s purview.
It is also quite complicated to make hard edged camouflage masking on the difficult surfaces
of this BM21. Domingo again makes a full use of his skills with this special and original
piece. Do not miss out on his work applying dirt on the lower areas of his vehicle.

14 BRDM2
Joaquín García Gázquez is back with a masterclass with this light vehicle
on wheels. As usual, Joaquín engages in an uncomplicated assembly work,
which is at the same time quite enjoyable and neglects no details. He caps
his work with a fantastic paintjob that you will be able to appreciate in
concise step by step pictures. A true classic; as usual.

28 MAZ 537
This is another heavy vehicle on wheels, and it is Mikolaj Marcinowski’s introductory pro-
ject. This spectacular truck has been carefully detailed with both P.E. pieces and some
scratch work. But the real treat here is the uncomplicated, direct and realistic paintwork
that he has done.

38 T-90
Chema Cabrero is another frequent featured author, and he shows us his particular take on
this MBT. The last generation model kits have such a high quality detail, that we can often
get spectacular results like this particular Meng product. Chema’s paintjob is based on a
light color modulation enhancing the different elements on the turret of this T-90. He has
also opted for leaving the engine compartment open which is not that common at all. Also
unusual as well is the exclusive use of acrylic paint in this kit.

50 ZMA
Özgur Günner is a frequent Turkish collaborator featured in many publications
making his debut in this issue of Panzer Aces with this original ZMA. Turkish
vehicles aren’t frequently featured around, and in this case Özgur has made the choice of
faithfully portraying this light 113 vehicle from a reference picture. As you’ll see he has suc-
cessfully recreated the peculiar NATO colors seen in the real life vehicle.

www.euromodelismo.com www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.Magazine

1_indice_57.indd 1 7/3/18 20:32

 Ural 4320
BM 21 Grad

/2

2-13_BM21.indd 2 7/3/18 20:29

 Victory Makett VM8405 1/48
The term Grad refers to the multiple rocket launching systems evolving
from the old BM-13 “Katuysha” launchers. This particular model is
mounted on an Ural 4320 truck and can be found in about 30 countries
worldwide. The system has 40 rocket launcher tubes used for destroying
at a long distance the enemy defenses via its considerable firepower and
reach, which is approximately about 40km.

Domingo Hernández

3/

2-13_BM21.indd 3 7/3/18 20:29

 This device first entered active service during the 1960’s in the former Soviet Union and was originally conceived for dissipating
large concentrations of enemy troops and destroying equipment in major warfare action. Because of its mobility the multiple rocket
launching system (MLRS) Grad has a wide range of action and is ready to fire rapidly and retreat almost immediately, which makes
it an invaluable weapon for guerrilla warfare.

ASSEMBLY
A modeler like myself who absolutely
1 1. I began by building the truck frame and I had to
loves the 1/48 scale, and even goes as far use some heat to straighten it up. I also had to add
as calling himself “marginal” for working in some reinforcement pieces on both sides
this scale, couldn’t resist purchasing this of it in order to properly support the
kit. I found it by mere chance while surfing entire rear part. I did this with
on some Russian websites. This is Victory Plasticard sections.
Makett product no. VM8405 was found
at a reasonable price and this model kit is
quite attractive to boot.
When I opened the box I was surprised;
I found a lot of resin pieces good for making
almost two model kits. After analyzing the
instruction sheet for a while I began sepa-
rating the pieces to make the model that I
wanted to build, and kept the rest in case 2-3. The other area I had to deal with was the
I’d use other pieces that could be useful for axles for the frame, because the kit pieces for
2
the build. this purpose were far too soft, so I had to use
The first thing to say about it, is a more rigid material that could stand the
that we’re dealing with a resin kit and entire assembly and painting process.
P.E. pieces, which means that we
have to deal with substandard pieces 3
coming from a well-used mold,
pieces that are simply missing, and a
rather sketchy instruction sheet.
The first thing I did was to organize the
pieces in smaller assembly groups: frame,
cabin, rear part of truck, missile launcher
and spare wheels.

4. Once the frame was done, I added the brake wires

and the frame supports for the axles.
/4

2-13_BM21.indd 4 7/3/18 20:30

 5

5. When I tried the wheels I could see how all wheels were touching the
ground at the same time and this meant that the axles and the frame were
properly assembled.
6. I did some improvements separately, and dealt with the fuel tank which
needed supports, a pump and a cover. Small improvements of this nature 6
always do a lot for the finished kit and this is particularly true in model kits
in smaller scales.

7 8

7. The biggest deal when assembling the cabin was to rebuild the
structure of the windshield. This piece was broken, so I had to
use some putty to fix it to the base and the roof and then fill in
the missing pieces.
8. On the outside, I only added the shovel in the rear, the mirror
supports and a few other pieces.
9. Once of the most difficult areas for me was creating the
support for the spare wheel. This piece was missing. I also had to
improve the bracket with small pieces of plastic and a few small
screws.

5/

2-13_BM21.indd 5 7/3/18 20:30

 10

10. I added an additional shovel on the rear, several Plasticard pieces, and tubes for cleaning the rockets and some tinfoil
for recreating the lateral protections. I also made the turn signals and replaced the exhaust on the frame for one with the
proper dimensions.

11

11. The truck was now complete with all pieces in place and its wheels too. Now I had to deal with the rocket launcher.

/6

2-13_BM21.indd 6 7/3/18 20:30

 12-13. The rocket launcher was the most fragile piece, 12
but luckily it didn’t have any air bubbles, warping, so
I added some details on some areas to make it better
looking. I added the wiring, several tubes, plates, etc…
14. Finally I had everything ready for the painting
work. I left many unglued parts in order to make the
painting and weathering processes easier. I must say
that it took me far longer to build and detail the model
kit than painting it.

13

14

7/

2-13_BM21.indd 7 7/3/18 20:31

 PAINTING

I knew from the start that I wanted to paint this model

16
green, so I began searching for color profiles, pictures and
other references in magazines, books and online until I
found a suitable three color pattern. I did this using Blu-Tack
masking in order to keep the integrity of all pieces during the
painting process.

15

15. I began by applying the predominant color, which was green.

I used Tamiya’s XF-67 NATO Green lighted up with a little
XF-76 Gray Green.

16. The second color

17
–after masking the
needed areas- was the
lightest one: I used
XF-57 Buff lighted up
with some X-2 White.
17. Finally I applied the
darkest color; I started
with a coat of XF-1
Black and created some
highlights with a little
XF-69 NATO Black.
18. The frame was
painted black and
the outer items
were covered
with a green base
color and the
camouflage
spots with
the mixture
18 described
earlier. The
second step
was to airbrush
also a slight coat
of dirt using XF-72
and XF-57. Here we can see
the airbrush work we’ve done up to
this point, right before we started the
weathering and other dirt processes.

/8

2-13_BM21.indd 8 7/3/18 20:32

 19. I began the
19
weathering process
with the frame
and used Tamiya
enamels in different
sand colored
hues thinned
down in different
proportions to
increase a little bit
its chromatic range.
I did all this using a
paintbrush.

20 20. The second

step consisted
in marking some
effects in the frame
and I did this with
AMMO’s enamels.
Grease stains, dirt,
fuel spills… These
effects effectively
countered the flat
appearance of the
paintjob.

21. Finally, after

using several
21 different pigment
hues I finished
the work on the
frame. While I was
working in this
stage I applied both
“dry” pigments and
with thinner.

22

22. The treatment for the wheels was pretty

much the same one applied to the frame but the
pattern for the wheels was a little different.
Here we can see the whole thing with the dirt
already applied.
9/

2-13_BM21.indd 9 7/3/18 20:32

 23
25
27
COLOR CHART
Base and Camouflage: Acrylics.XF-67
NATO Green, XF-76 Grey Green, XF-57
Buff, X-2 White, XF-1 Black, XF-69 NATO
Black, XF-72 Brown JGSDF.
Dirt on truck frame: Enamels, XF-1 Black,
XF-64 Reddish Brown, XF-52 Sand, XF-57.
Stains and Liquids: Enamels A.MIG. 1402
Fresh Mud, 1407 Fresh Engine OIL, 1408
Engine Grime.
Dirt –Second Statement-: Pigments
A.MIG. 3000 Pigment Fixer, 3004 Europe
/ 10
2-13_BM21.indd 10
DIRT AND DUST
23. The upper areas got some paint chips on the surfaces of these trucks prone to
getting them. I started with the lightest ones (Russian Green) and then continued
with the darker ones (German C. Black Brown) both from Vallejo.
24
24. Pencil lead was also used
to recreate the bare metal
surfaces on some areas.
25-26. Tamiya’s Buff enamel
26
was now used for making dirt
trails created by rainfall on
the vertical surfaces. These
marks were then smeared
with a little thinner.
27. I also wanted to recreate dirt
accumulated on the less accessible
areas. I did this by using a little
“Europe Earth” pigment
that was fixed with
diluted Dark Mud
enamel. Once dry
I went over it
again until I
was pleased
with the
results.
Earth, 3007 Dark Earth. Enamel
1405 Dark Mud
Paint Chips: Acrylics Vallejo series
Panzer Aces, 330 HighLights Russian II,
70.822 German Cam. Black Brown.
Rotating Light: A.MIG.194 Aluminium,
Tamiya X-26 Orange Clear.
Smoke Remains: Mig Productions P023
Black Smoke Pigment P023
9/3/18 17:10
 28. This is the appearance 28
of the kit with all the
work done up to this
point. We still need to
retouch the cabin and the
rocket launcher.

29

29. In
order to
create
some
contrast,
I hand painted the rear
area of the rocket launcher
using Vallejo’s red in the way
it was done for real in my reference pictures. The wires
were painted black (Vallejo also) and the buttons for the
launching system were painted with translucent colors over
an aluminum paint base.

30

30. The typical

highlights of Ural
trucks were painted
with Tamiya’s Clear
Orange after having
applied an aluminum
paint base.

31. The final touch

31
consisted in applying
a little Smoke color
pigment to the front
and rear of the rocket
launcher in order
to give it a worn
appearance. This
process was done
with dry pigment
rubbed with a smooth
paintbrush in order to
control the amount of
color pigment used.

11 /

2-13_BM21.indd 11 7/3/18 20:33

 CONCLUSION
When I started this project I was unable to foresee
that the build was going to take more time than the
paintjob, but I guess that such things may depend on
how you face each individual project, and the unfore-
seen troubles that might arise during its execution. At
any rate, and looking at it from hindsight, this is a kit
that I’m rather satisfied with and certainly a rarity in
this scale.

2-13_BM21.indd 12 7/3/18 20:33

2-13_BM21.indd 13 7/3/18 20:33
 BRDM-2

/ 14

14-27_BRDM.indd 14 7/3/18 20:28

 TRUMPETER 1/35
The BRDM-2 (Boyevaya Razvedyvatelnaya Dozornaya Mashina or Scouting Vehicle), is a
scouting vehicle designed in the former Soviet Union, with the purpose of replacing the BRDM-1,
increasing the capacity and weaponry of this vehicle.
The BRDM-2 is propelled with a V-8, GAZ-41 gasoline engine with 140 HP which also propels
a water jet for its amphibian movement. The turret is the same one used for the BTR-60 troop
transport and is equally armed with a heavy KPV 14.5mm machine gun and a secondary PKY
7.62mm machine gun. The vehicle’s crew consists of four men: Driver, Assistant, Commander
and Gunner. The vehicle has been exported to more than 40 countries, and in many countries, it
is still in use in large numbers.

Joaquín García Gázquez

15 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 15 7/3/18 20:28

 THE KIT

This is Trumpeter’s 05511 “Russian BRDM-2 (Early)” kit. We’re dealing with a
well-made mold, and a kit with a proper fit, and the only aftermarket kit employed
here is the DEF Models resin wheel set, that I used simply because I absolutely
hate the soft rubber wheels which in this case have all the proper detailing. With
the small P.E. sheet that comes with the kit, and changing the handles for copper
wire replacements and a few other home made improvements, we get a properly
detailed kit and we can move on to my favorite part: Painting. However, I’m
going to make a few comments about the more relevant points of the assembly
process.

1-2. All handles are replaced with 2

copper wire sections of varying
diameters. It is crucial to observe the
reference pictures of real life vehicles
in order to be able to copy the
different shapes and sizes
of these handles.

/ 16

14-27_BRDM.indd 16 7/3/18 20:28

 3 4

5 6

3. The transparent styrene pieces on the sides are

painted black on the inside before gluing them. This is
done for gaining depth.
4. When the transparent styrene parts are in place,
we proceed to protect these using masking tape and
“Maskol”. All headlights with transparent styrene are
painted silver from the inside in order to mimic real life
headlights.
5. The Welding lines should be perfectly straight
and aligned. These are recreated with heat stretched
styrene, textured with and X-Acto knife tied to a
soldering iron (1), Welding lines around certain shapes,
are made with putty rolls textured with an X-Acto (2).
6. The welding lines I made are pointed with arrows. These
are obviously missing, and definitely need to be added.
Trumpeter’s hull for this kit is meant to be used for several
different versions, and has holes for fitting different items. The
best way to seal these holes is to fill these with styrene rods
and liquid glue, and then thoroughly sanding the surface once
dry.
7. The DEF Models wheels are exceptional, have outstanding
detailing and adequately recreate the weight of the vehicle.
8. The different pieces are now properly prepared for painting
comfortably.

7 8

MATERIALS EMPLOYED
• Dw35019 Soviet BRDM-2/3 LAV
Sagged Wheel set
• 05511 Russian BRDM-2 (early)

17 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 17 7/3/18 20:29

 PAINTING

I chose the Modern Russian Green pat-

9
tern of an anonymous vehicle in Afgha-
nistan for my vehicle.
Base Color and Paint Chips:
The evolution of one’s modeling skills
demands that changes in procedure are
introduced every now and then -almost
without notice-, and in this way we
improve our techniques and procedures.
One of the things I’ve been trying to
improve of late is the way I do paint chips.
I had never been 100% satisfied with the
results obtained, and the way and proce-
dures employed for painting these was
either satisfactory to me.
When you’re facing a similar situation, 9. The model kit covered with Vallejo’s Model Air Surface Primer “German Red
the best thing to do is to study the real life Brown”, applied in thin coats until the vehicle has been fully covered.
effect and try to bring that into the scale
and the model kit you’re working on.
In real life, this process occurs when a 10
surface is eroded, scratched, or worn and
you end up seeing the priming under-
neath or the bare metal surface.
Forgetting the typical painted-on
effects, what better thing to do than
recreating the real life process?
After carrying a number of tests, I
found a method I liked. I primed the kit
with a dark red color, applied Gunze
Sangyo’s Mr. Silicon Barrier, and then
apply the colors of the vehicle. The Silicon
Barrier, helps you later with the chipping,
which can be made with a knife or san-
dpaper, perfectly recreating what happens
in real life.
This product does not weaken or affect
the color on top, so you can do the remai-
ning paint processes normally.

11
10. Welding strips are painted
silver, closely following the real life
reference pictures of abandoned
vehicles. In these pictures we can see
how these strips have a silver hue and
are not rusted. This lack of rust has to
do with the welding process and the
electrodes employed.
11. Then, using a flat tipped
paintbrush, we apply the Mr. Silicon
Barrier product and cover the entire
model kit. Don’t worry about using a
paintbrush, this product gives you a
very uniform surface, and when using
your airbrush later on you will see
how details are well preserved leaving
no trace of this product or its means
of application.

/ 18

14-27_BRDM.indd 18 7/3/18 20:29

 12. All airbrush work is
12
done using Tamiya Acrylics,
following the chart below.
We start by applying the
base color.

13. Highlights are applied

13
on the horizontal surfaces,
doing small paint “clouds”
to create points of interest
on the different surfaces,
adding also some XF-14 to
the highlight mixture.

14. On the vertical surfaces,

14
we work with the shading
mixture, and we also do
some traces of dirt, by
adding more black paint.

19 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 19 7/3/18 20:30

 15 15. Here we can see the
distribution of the different
hues compared to the paint
chip, and we can do some
color modulation on some
areas in order to make the kit
visually more interesting.

16

16. Paint chip with the base color (2), Highlight color mixture (1) and shading hue (3).

17 18

COLOR CHART
Base:
70% XF-67 NATO Green + 15 %
XF-60 Dark Yellow + 15% XF-4
Yellow Green
1st Highlight::
Base + XF-14 J.A. Grey + XF-4
Yellow Green
17-18. Now we can do the chipping with a brand 2nd Highlight:
new X-Acto knife. I can never say this enough: Previous mixture + XF-14 J.A.
Careful with the chipping! We may enjoy the effect, Grey
but we must avoid overdoing it. Shading:
Base + XF-1 Black

/ 20

14-27_BRDM.indd 20 7/3/18 20:30

 OIL PAINT

Once our base colors are ready, the 19 20

next step will be oil paint work. Oils are
my favorite medium for finishing my
model kits.
The first thing to do with these is to
work on the surface and create the typical
surface effects of military vehicles subject
to wear and tear; scratches, color faded
areas, etc. This is what I call multi-tone
treatment.
I use artist’s oil paints. I won’t give
specific product references, because any
decent brand has these colors in their pro-
duct line and with these we’ll get the best
results.
I worked on the base color with the
following colors from the Titan brand:

21 22

23

19. Oil paint colors employed for the

multi-tone treatment.
20. As usual, I soak the working
surface and apply the oil paint…
21. …”melting” paint with
enamel thinner. I do it in
circles on the
horizontal
surfaces…
22. …and use
an up and down
motion for the
vertical ones.
23. The appearance of the
kit after the oil paint work,
changes considerably.

21 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 21 7/3/18 20:31

 24 25 26

27 28

24 to 27. The machine gun barrels are treated and polished with pencil lead.
28. I finish the job with blue and black ink Citadel paint filters to gain the necessary contrast and depth.

29-30. Tools and other accessories are painted with Vallejo and
Citadel acrylics.

29

30

/ 22

14-27_BRDM.indd 22 7/3/18 20:31

 DIRT AND DUST
When we look closely, we’ll see that 32. This is also applied
31
a vehicle in campaign; whether it’s on on the wheels.
maneuvers or in combat, is usually rather 33. Before paint
dirty, with clusters of dirt and sand almost dries, we partially
everywhere. The areas where the crews remove paint with a
tread upon or handle are also full of grease paintbrush, recreating
and fuel remains, making everything much rubs and streaks.
more interesting and making this hobby a 34. We repeat this
rather fun “business”. process on the wheels.

31. I begin by airbrushing highly

diluted Humbrol No. 29 on the lower
areas and all other spots where sand
and dirt usually accumulate.

32 33

34 35 35-36. We can widen

the color range by using
other sand colored
hues. We can simply
darken it with a little
blue, repeating the
process on certain
areas.

36
37

37. Finished process.

23 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 23 7/3/18 20:31

 38-39. Highly diluted Natural Umber
38
oil paint is now used for enhancing
every small detail such as rivets,
joint lines, hatches, etc.

39

40 41

40. In order to recreate adhered

42 43
sand and bring some texture to our
previous work, we put some color
pigments in certain areas.
41. Pigments are fixed with sand
colored oils diluted with enamel
thinner applied with a toothpick.
42-43. The whole process is repeated
on the wheels.

44 to 47. These techniques are

44
used in different areas of the
vehicle obtaining a balanced and
realistic result.

14-27_BRDM.indd 24 9/3/18 17:13

 45

47

49

46

48

48. Final retouching: Varnishing with Tamiya’s

“Smoke” diluted in water, painting the
periscopes and getting some gloss and depth.
49. Right by the hatches, where the crew sits,
we drybrush the area using a darker color in
order to convey the rubbing and worn areas
caused by crewmen.

25 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 25 7/3/18 20:32


It is always advisable to include a
figure in military vehicles, in order to give
a human touch to the machine and set
the scale of the model kit. In this case
we’re only dealing with a simple bust
appearing through the hatch, which is
enough to get the job done.
/ 26
14-27_BRDM.indd 26
TANK DRIVER
The bust comes from the Valkyrie
Miniatures set 35026 “Soviet Army Tank
Crew in Afhanistan (1980 Era)”. It has a
Hornet head that has better details and a
better facial expression.
The figure was painted with Scale 75’s
acrylics using its “FLESH Paint” set for its
face and the “BLACK and WHITE Paint”
set for the black helmet and the uniform.
The color proportions vary between
the helmet and the jacket, in order to get
some color range to the ensemble and be
able to tell both items of clothing apart.
7/3/18 20:32
 27 /

14-27_BRDM.indd 27 7/3/18 20:33

 MAZ 537 Late
Trumpeter 1/35
The MAZ 537 is one of the largest and heaviest trucks created
during the Soviet era. I love this kind of gigantic vehicles and
although this is not a terribly popular subject
among modelers, I absolutely knew that this
piece was going to find a place
in my collection.

Mikolaj Marcinowski

/ 28

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 28 7/3/18 20:26

 29 /

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 29 7/3/18 20:26

 THE MODEL KIT 4

This is the largest artillery truck ever created by the Soviets. It was
designed during the years of the Cold War following a request from the
army for carrying ballistic missiles around. The vehicle was manufactured
between the years 1959-1965 by the Minsk Automobile Plant and between
the years 1963-1990 by the Kurgan plant. The vehicle has a twelve cylinder
D-12A-525A diesel engine located underneath the driving cab. The vehicle
reaches a maximum speed of 60km per hour consuming 140 liters of fuel
every 100km. It measures 9 meters long and weighs 22 tons.
Although in general terms, the Trumpeter kit is quite good, it needs a
few improvements in order to get a more accurate model resembling more its real life counterpart. Scratch building will therefore be
necessary in order to recreate a few items. Additionally Voyager has a P.E. set for this kit and resin wheels for a more realistic result.

ASSEMBLY

2 3

1. After we’re done with the assembly of the

frame and the suspension, I scratch built the
anchoring for the bumper.
2-3. I had to add the handles missing in this kit,
the extensive wiring and the shock absorbing
springs on the platform for mooring the towing
devices.

/ 30

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 30 7/3/18 20:27

4 5

4. Although it is hardly visible, I also did the wiring for the brakes on 5. I emptied the interior of the headlights and
the wheels. painted these with Mr. Hobby’s Chrome Silver.
This is a very simple improvement that boosts
the realistic feel of these pieces. The bumper is
one of those pieces that will definitely improve
6 as well if we use Voyager’s P.E. set.

MATERIALS EMPLOYED
• Trumpeter 01006
• Voyager Model PE35278
• Scratch build

6. The detail on the inner side of the doors and

the dashboard can be handled too with the P.E.
pieces.

7
7. The fastenings for the fuel deposits, the
supports of the boxes, the ventilation fins or the
hinges also benefit hugely from the P.E. pieces.

31 /

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 31 9/3/18 17:14

19. The Modelmaster decals have been employed with Micro Set and Micro Sol decal application products. Afterwards I applied a cou

PAINTING
8. I started by painting the interior of the driving cab with Gunze’s H309. The
mats on the floor are P.E. pieces. In order to recreate dirt and the sand usually
present on the floor mats I used MIG Productions’ color pigments Dark Mud,
Light Mud and Europe Dust. I also applied a MIG Productions’ P222 Neutral
Wash to enhance the nooks and crannies.

10 9. After priming the kit with Mr.

Surfacer’s Primer, I applied the H309
Gunze base coat. I also painted the
fire extinguishers, the exhausts and
other items.
10-11. Then I did a slight color
modulation, highlighting certain
pieces with the base color slightly
lightened.

12

11

12. The darker paint chips were

painted with Vallejo’s 822 German C.
Black Brown.

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 32 7/3/18 20:28

applied a couple of gloss acrylic varnish. After the varnish dried, I did some washes with MIG Prods.’ Dark Wash P220.

13. The Modelmaster decals have 14-15. The lighter

14
been employed with Micro Set and paint chips were
Micro Sol decal application products. done with a 10/0
Afterwards I applied a couple of gloss paintbrush and a
acrylic varnish. After the varnish mixture of Gunze’s
dried, I did some washes with MIG H309 and white.
Prods.’ Dark Wash P220.

13 15

16. The next step was to recreate the

rain marks, dampness, dirt trails and
traces of rust and mud. I employed the
following products for all this: A. MIG’s
1208 Rain Marks, MIG Prods. P409 Wet
Effects. Mud has been made by splashing A.
MIG’s 1406 Damp Earth.

16

17

18

17-18. Pigments were used

for creating dirt and sand in
different areas of the truck.
The A.MIG pigment colors
used for this purpose are:
Russian Earth 3014, Dark Mud
1405, Europe Dust P028…
Pigments were then fixed in
place using pigment fixer.

33 /

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 33 9/3/18 17:15

 COLOR CHART
Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000
GUNZE ACRYLICS
H309 Green FS34079
H11 Flat White
211 Chrome Silver
TAMIYA ACRYLICS
XF-1 Flat Black
X - 26 Clear Orange
X-27 Clear Red
X-22 Clear
XF-7 Flat Red
XF-58 Olive Green
MICROSCALE
Mi-5 Micro Satin
A.MIG.
Rain Marks A.Mig 1208
Russian Earth 3014
Dark Mud 1405
MIG PRODUCTIONS
Dark Wash P220.
19 Neutral Wash P222
Dark Mud P033, Light Mud P024,
Europe Dust P028
A.VALLEJO
822 German C. Black Brown

20 19. The movement of the

windshield wipers has
been made by airbrushing
highly diluted A.MIG’s
“Rainmarks Effects”
1208 on the masked
windshield.
20. Upper view of the
frame of the vehicle
where we can see all
the dirt and dampness
effects.
21-22. I particularly
enjoyed making the
dried out and the recent
grease on the fifth wheel
which is one of the most
attractive visual spots on
the kit.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
• Tankograd Special
No 02 - Soviet Tank
Transporter and Heavy
Duty Truck MAZ -
535 and MAZ 537 by
Jochen Vollert
• www.dishmodels.ru
• www.primeportal.net

/ 34

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 34 9/3/18 17:15

 21

22

35 /

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 35 7/3/18 20:29

 / 36

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 36 7/3/18 20:29

 37 /

28-37_MAZ 537 Nikolaj.indd 37 7/3/18 20:29

 T 90
5th AFV Division
i

SIBERIA
Military District
/ 38

38-49_T-90.indd 38 7/3/18 20:26

 Chema Cabrero

Meng Models 1/35

The T-90 AFV was developed as an update in the elaborate production of
the T-72 which is the main AFV in the armies of the Russian Federation.
The production of the T-90 began in small quantities taking advantage of the
existing hulls of the T-72 BU. This vehicle was given a new 840 HP engine and an
updated armoring and new protection systems such as the Shtora-1, with a new turret
design and ERA armoring on the most vulnerable spots. The serial production for this
vehicle began in 1993 with a design update in 1999 with a new welded turret instead of
the initial foundry turret. This model is known as the “Vladimir” honoring the designer in
chief of the T-90 Vladimir Potkin, who died in 1999 (with a curious historical parallel to
Koshkin the designer of the classic T-34…) and was the chief designer of the Development
and designs department of Kartseu Venediktov of the UralvagonZavod in Nizhny Tagil.

39 /

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 ASSEMBLY
Thanks to Orlando Barn for
1
his help during the assembly
process.
There are presently about
700 units in active service
in spite of the original inten-
tions of having about 1300
operational units by 2011. Sur-
rounded with a certain aura of
mystery, it is not really known
how many operative units are
around, the nature of many of
its characteristics and the exact
amount of units manufactured.
It has a 2A46 M smooth
inner gun barrel which was a
modification taken from the
anti-AFV “Sprut”, which is also
present on the T80 and the
modern updates of the T62 and
T64, completing its armament 1. Once we’re done with the assembly work we can see that we are dealing with a high
with a 7.62mm coaxial machine quality (and large) model kit that doesn’t need putty or tedious sanding sessions.
gun and a 12.7mm NSUT
remotely operated on the turret. 2
The vehicle has been
exported to other countries like
India, Saudi Arabia, Algiers,
Uganda and Venezuela; this is
unquestionably a vehicle with
great firepower and mobility
and a great record in terms of
crew survival. India went as far
as making their local version of
this vehicle with some Russian
assistance during the years 2006
and 2007. This MBT was called
the T-90 Bhisma in honor of the
commander of the Kouravas
armed forces during the wars
described in the Mahabharata.
The Meng model kit is a
faithful and detailed represen-
tation of the real vehicle and
it can be assembled without
a great deal of unpleasant sur-
prises and an astonishing result
doing justice to this aggressive
vehicle. All parts fit together
wonderfully, the kit has move-
2. We’ve chosen to leave the lateral “skirts” and its armoring unassembled in order to
able suspension and individual
facilitate the painting chores on the undercarriage including of course its weathering
track links (these seem to be effects.
quite complicated to assemble
together but can be assem- includes a P.E. sheet for detailing the grilles on the hull
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
bled pretty effectively with an containing also the noteworthy fuel conduits and its
assembly system that comes fragile connections. The Meng Models’ kit is indeed a • T-90ª MENG MODELS TS-006
with the kit…) The kit also great model with a staggering amount of pieces.
/ 40

38-49_T-90.indd 40 7/3/18 20:27

 3
PAINTING

3. Basic color hues

from Vallejo’s Modern
Russian Green set will
be employed here.

4. We’ll employ several

4
different green hues,
mixing several Vallejo
colors from the Modern
Russian Green and
Russian Green 4BO sets
and apply these on the
numerous features of
the AFV, obtaining a
color range which could
have otherwise been in
one rather monotonous
green hue throughout.

5. Taking full advantage

5
of the color modulation
techniques we’ll
enhance its volumes
with highlights and
shadows without
actually turning it into
a sort of 3D render with
jolting color transitions
or using the zenithal
light source technique
that we dislike as well.

41 /

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 6. We’ll save the lightest colors for
6
the components on the upper areas,
painting by hand the smallest pieces
in order to compensate the light of the
smaller objects.

7. On top of the light green base of

the mantlet’s tarp, we’ll apply several
coats of Vallejo’s Model Wash’s
“Desert Dust”.

8. We’ll also use this

8
color for creating a
very light patina like
coat for creating dirt
in certain areas.
9. Let’s not forget that
we are recreating a
present day vehicle
and this means that
rust can be present
in some cases in
very specific areas,
something also
applicable to overall
weathering but
nothing like a WWII
vehicle submitted
to constant abuse
and little to no
maintenance. In
the same manner,
the quality of paint
manufactured in 1937
is nothing like what’s
being manufactured
today…

10. For these reasons, the kit will get the logical,
9 10
weathering, dirt and color variations and some very
local rust effects. Vallejo’s Model Wash line can
be quite versatile with some practice and can be
used for paint filters, subtle paint veils, and used to
create paint fading effects for our base color and for
pinpoint washes. We can mix these together, dilute
them with water and obtain thus some interesting
color variation hues throughout our kit.

/ 42

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 11. We create
11
now other
accumulated dirt
effects around
the screws and
other sunken
features and also
the frontal plates
of the hull. On
one of the fuel
tanks we will
create some rust.

12. We’ll use Model Wash’s

12
“Oiled Earth” for creating
a shading effect without
overdoing it too much.
This is accomplished by
previously soaking the area
with water and letting the
wash spread thanks to the
capillarity effect, removing
excess product with a clean
paintbrush.

13

14

13-14. We can also use the Vallejo Model Wash products for making a splashing effect on
the lateral protections.
43 /

38-49_T-90.indd 43 7/3/18 20:28

 15

15. We will keep doing “multi-task” work with the Vallejo Model Wash products in order to recreate accumulated dirt,
grease remains and rust effects in the indicated areas.

16

16. It is always advisable

to work without hurrying,
assessing the appearance of
our kit in each of the work
stages.

/ 44

38-49_T-90.indd 44 7/3/18 20:29

 17. Meng offers a highly detailed engine block which
15 17
is a pity to conceal, and that’s the reason why we’ve
left the engine compartment open.

18

18. We’ll use Vallejo Pigment

19
“Dark Steel” for recreating the
metallic nature of the MG.

19. The turret should receive

special attention along with its
multiple features, components
and its complex arrangement.

16

20. We’ll apply a few Model

Wash Rust Vallejo washes on
the tracks.

20

21

21. A little of the very classic

drybrush technique if well done and
in moderation, shouldn’t be frowned
upon… In this case we’ll work with a
very light green hue that will enhance
a few details and some highlights.
45 /

38-49_T-90.indd 45 9/3/18 17:16

 22 24

22 to 25. A few dirt effects on some areas using several Vallejo Pigment colors will be applied using a paintbrush. We’ll
also mix these with Pigment Binder in order to make realistic splashing effects. This is done by first creating a dense 25
mixture of pigments and pigment fixer that will be loaded into an old toothbrush and then splashed onto the model kit by
scratching the toothbrush bristles.

23 COLOR CHART
78.403 Set Russian Green 4BO
78.408 Set Modern Russian Green
76.522 Wash Desert Dust
76.521 Wash Oiled Earth
76.507 Wash Dark Rust
76.506 Wash Rust
76.503 Wash Dark Yellow
76.514 Wash Dark Brown
76.513 Wash Brown
76.519 Wash Olive Green
73.200 Wash Sepia Shade
76.520 Dark Khaki green
71.057 Black
71.042 Camouflage Black Brown
71.131 Concrete
71.249 NATO Brown
71.001 White
71.003 Scarlet Red
71.004 Blue
71.007 Olive Green
73.123 Dark Steel Pigment
73.109 Natural Umber Pigment
73.105 Natural Sienna Pigment
23.233 Pigment Binder

/ 46

38-49_T-90.indd 46 7/3/18 20:30

24

25

47 /

38-49_T-90.indd 47 7/3/18 20:30

 / 48

38-49_T-90.indd 48 7/3/18 20:31

 49 /

38-49_T-90.indd 49 7/3/18 20:31

ZMA-15 The history of an AIFV

/ 50

50-59_ZMA.indd 50 9/3/18 17:18

 AFV 1/35
The history of armored personnel carrier
vehicles with tracks (APC) begins
in WWII. Towards the end of 1944
several projects for developing armored
personnel carrying vehicles based on
the combat experiences of the M3A1
-a vehicle without a roof and almost no
armoring- were already in existence.
The new projects focused on obtaining a
greater mobility and protection.

Özgur Günner

51 /

50-59_ZMA.indd 51 9/3/18 17:18

 The first prototype is the M-44 (T16)
and the first manufactured model was
the M-75(T18E1) using the same plat-
form used by the M-41 Walker Bulldog.
1.729 units of this vehicle were manu-
factured and the vehicle saw active
service from 1951 to 1959. The vehicle
was well tested during the Korean War,
and although the US Army was satisfied
with its performance, the production of
this vehicle was canceled because of its
elevated production costs. This vehicle
was replaced by lighter and cheaper
M-59 weighing only 19,3 tons. It had
a steel hull and had a 146 HP engine.
The vehicle entered active service in
1953 and 6.000 units was manufactured
all the way up to 1960. However, from
the outset a different vehicle was in the
planning stage. A vehicle weighing not
more than 7,3 tons which could be trans-
ported by aircraft, be amphibian and
able to carry a large number of troops
with enough protection. This vehicle
ended up being the well-known M-113
which was manufactured from 1960 all
the way to the late 1980’s making more
/ 52
50-59_ZMA.indd 52
than 80.000 units of this vehicle with an
aluminum hull.
During the 1960’s it became evident
that the M-113 was inferior to its Iron
Curtain counterpart, the BMP-1. Thus
began the works to turn it into a vehicle
with a greater mobility, better armoring
and a greater firepower. Because of all of
these improvements, the M-113 stopped
being an APC and became a new type
of vehicle; the AIFV (Armored Infantry
Fighting Vehicle). Manufactured since
1974 by the American FCM Corpora-
tion, the new platform now weighed
13,5 tons, was armed with a 22mm gun,
had a 12,9 mm machine gun and could
carry 10 infantrymen. This new evolu-
tion of the vehicle changed the expec-
tations of the Army on these kinds of
vehicles and that ended up with a com-
pletely different vehicle; the Bradley. But
that’s different story.
In spite of the concept change from
troop transport to fighting vehicle, there
were still several NATO countries led by
Holland which requested the improved
M-113. That was a new lease on life
for the old M-113. Holland acquired
880 units and was awarded a license to
manufacture the improved version from
1977 on. The vehicles manufactured
under license were named YPR 765s.
YPR are the Dutch letters for armored
vehicle on tracks.
During the 1980’s, the Turkish Army
also became interested in manufacturing
this vehicle, and that’s how the FNSS
acquired a manufacturing license. This
company made 2.000 units in different
versions not only for the Turkish Army
(TSK) but also for other countries. The
vehicle manufactured by the FNSS was
named ZMA-15 which means armored
combat vehicle weighing 15 tons in
Turkish. The ZMA-15 of the Turkish
Army was widely used in several NATO,
SFOR and KFOR missions. The vehicle
in this article is a unit from the SFOR.
SFOR, (Stabilization Force) was a
multinational NATO force created after
the war in Bosnia to guarantee the
fragile peace of the region. Turkey took
part in these forces by contributing per-
sonnel and vehicles for this purpose.
7/3/18 20:26

For this project I used AFV’s 35016 kit,
which isn’t precisely the best kit in the
world. It requires quite a lot of work in
order to get a decent result. Some parts
are too simplified, and the vinyl tracks
leave much to be desired. In spite of these
shortcomings, we have a P.E. sheet which
allows us to make the Turkish SFOR vehicle
straight from the box. It even comes with
the decals for making the white version of
the white Turkish U.N. vehicle.
1 recommend you to follow your
2
50-59_ZMA.indd 53
THE KIT
My intentions were to replicate
the vehicle in this picture: ZMA.
This vehicle has been painted
with the standard three colored
NATO camouflage, but the
green hue looks a little dif-
ferent. I thought that this was
interesting, so I tried to copy
the picture as faithfully as pos-
sible.
ASSEMBLY
1. Generally for this process I
criteria trusting your own experience,
instead of following the order
proposed in the AFV instruction
sheet. You have to be careful enough
when you assemble the multi-piece
hull especially with its large side
pieces. The model I wanted to make
doesn’t have all the hooks for hanging
much of the stuff that comes with the
kit, so I had to get rid of these and
sand the surface accordingly.
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
• AFV Club: NATO AIFV AF35016
• Friu Model: ATL-17
2. Afterwards I assembled the wheels
and the hatches. The vinyl tracks
leave much to be desired,
but with some work
we can improve their
appearance, but I opted
to ditch these and go
for the Friul Model
metal ones which are
much better. If you
choose to use the vinyl
ones anyway, bear in mind
that the tracks on one side are
longer than on the other side.
Make sure you use the correct track
for each side.
53 /
7/3/18 20:26
 3 3-4. In order to get rid of the marks of the removed
hooks on the sides, I applied a coat of Mr. Surfacer
500 getting with this process some texture as well.
Afterwards I assembled the main pieces of the turret
which has a very clever design. The gun barrel can
move vertically as usual. Oddly enough,
the manufacturer does not include
the coaxial machine gun in this
set. I also did a little improvement
consisting in drilling the holes for
the Oerlikon fire extinguisher.

5-6. The Friul Model tracks are actually a bit different

from those included with the kit which is the actual
the M-113 ones, but the ZMA’s used different types
of tracks –including these ones- so we can say that in
historical terms this is acceptable. The problem is that
we must make small adjustments to the tractor hooks
and the placement of the fenders/mudguards, mainly
6
because the M-113 tracks are a little wider than the
ZMA standard. I believe that the small effort is truly
worthwhile just for the increase in quality alone. I
finished assembling the turret and the ZMA began to
acquire a very attractive appearance.

7. There are few but good P.E.

pieces in this kit, and I also did
other improvements to this ZMA
mainly concerning the trimming
down of some of the thicker pieces.
/ 54

50-59_ZMA.indd 54 9/3/18 17:19

 PAINTING
8 8. I primed the kit using a mixture
of Vallejo grays, obtaining a
homogeneous surface for my base
color.
9. As I had mentioned earlier, my
ZMA has slightly different colors
to those of the standard NATO
camouflage colors. That’s why in
order to be faithful to the reference
picture, instead of using the green from
the Vallejo NATO color set; I made my own
mixture using colors: 71.014 RLM 25, 71.126 IDF
Green, 71.046 Pale Grey Blue and 71.001 White.

9
COLOR CHART
Camouflage:
71.014 RLM 25, 71.126 IDF Green, 71.046
Pale Grey Blue, 71.001 White, 251 NATO
Black, 249 NATO Brown.
Tracks:
Set 71.213 “Wheels & Tracks”
Tools and small details: 71.244
Sand Beige, 72.754 Gun Metal, 70.950
Black, 71.316 Dark Olive Drab, 71.042
Camouflage Black Brown.
Decals:
73.212 Decal Medium, 73.213 Decal Fix
Varnish:
26.519 Satin Acrylic Varnish, 26.518 Matt
Acrylic Varnish
Shadows:
76.514 Dark Brown Wash
10. For the brown and black, I used
Paint Chips:
71.096 Panzer Olive, 71.046 Pale Grey the colors on the Vallejo set for NATO
Blue, 77.702 Duraluminium camouflages.
Dirt:
Pigmentos 73.109 Natural Umber, 73.102
Light Yellow Ochre 10
Damp areas:
73.828 Wet Effects, 73.813
Oil Stains, 73.814 Engine

I painted this semi hard edged

camouflage using a technique that
consists in drawing first the contour
of the camouflage spots with a
paintbrush.
55 /

50-59_ZMA.indd 55 7/3/18 20:27

 11

11. Afterwards you fill in the inside

of these spots using your airbrush
with a 0.2mm nozzle. Obviously paint
should be quite diluted.
12. In order to get a weathered
paint effect, I prepared a mixture of
each color (slightly lighted up) and
airbrushed these mixtures on every
spot.
13. Additional items such as tools,
smoke screen devices, etc. are
12 hand painted with Vallejo acrylics.
Unfortunately, the kit does not
have the decal with the SAFOR
logo. Luckily my friend Murat
Özgül made a fantastic one for
me and I only had to put some
adhesive tape on top and cut
away the letters with a sharp
knife.

14. Although I used the

decal sheet that came
with the kit, I will
mention that the Turkish
flags are not made in the
right size and the half
moon and star are not
correctly located. If you
want more precision, you
should get decals from other 13
kits, like for instance the decals sold
for airplane kits.

14

15

15. The white areas of the license

plates are painted with a stencil and
the numbers were obtained from
spare decal sheets. The decals are all
applied with the usual decal applying
products.
/ 56

50-59_ZMA.indd 56 7/3/18 20:28

 16. Once the decals were dry, I
16
applied a coat of satin varnish to
protect all the paintwork done
up to this point. Once varnish
dried, I began the weathering
processes. The first step was
applying some paint washes. I
used Vallejo’s 73.514 Dark Brown
Wash on the areas that I wanted
to turn a little darker. Excess
product was removed with tap
water.

17

17. I knew that paint chips had to be different

from those of other vehicles. The ZMA vehicle has
aluminum hulls and does not get rusty like steel
vehicles do. That’s why when doing paint chips
you should forget about the usual reddish and rust
colored hues. In the first place I painted some paint
chips and scratches with a green lighter than the
base color one and then I painted the aluminum
colored ones on the areas prone to greater wear
and tear.
18. After doing the paint chips I created the
typical dirt clusters. I used for this the “Wet on
Wet” technique which is basically to heavily
dilute in water the acrylic paint to create dirt
and sand deposits. Diluted paint is applied on the
selected areas that should be moistened in the first
place. Once it’s all dry, you’ll get a very realistic
accumulated dirt effect. I protected this thin and
delicate paint coat with a coat of matt 18
varnish before
continuing with
further paint
processes.

57 /

50-59_ZMA.indd 57 7/3/18 20:28

 19 19. The reference picture shows the
vehicle from only one side and it looks
quite clean. I was determined to recreate
the vehicle in the picture as faithfully as
possible, so I didn’t make very thorough
weathering/dirt effects. I simply created
some dirt with dry color pigments
on very specific areas, and
then I used a few drops of
water to fix the pigments
in place.
20. Obviously, I also made
some small oil, fuel stains,
and all that. Although these
are not seen in the reference
picture, its presence in
moderation is almost certain.

20 21

21. In order to recreate the bare metal surfaces on certain

spots, I used graphite or pencil lead.

22. I finished the work after gluing

the antennas and mirrors.

22

/ 58

50-59_ZMA.indd 58 7/3/18 20:28

 Conclusion: It was a relatively
simple project that I enjoyed quite
a bit and I hope that this will arise
some interest for the Turkish
AFV’s.

59 /

50-59_ZMA.indd 59 7/3/18 20:29

 Painting metal surfaces: shovels
Shovels are generally always present on
AFV model kits. This is a normal thing,
because shovels were part of the basic
accessories of most AFV’s. Historically
shovels have been painted in shiny colors,
but if we do an image search we will find
out that we can paint these in many dif-
ferent ways. Obviously the most usual
thing –unless this tool has been unused-
is to have this tool show its metal surface.
We have also found reference pictures
with varying degrees of rusting, shovels
with sand clusters, paint remains of the
base color of the vehicle where these were
originally found, etc. What seems to be
fairly consistent is to find some sort of
satin black paint covering the metal sur-
face.
Here we will offer you a few examples
we can easily paint recreating the looks of
the different reference pictures of the real
shovels.
We’ve used the P.E. shovels created by
Macone Models. We recommend you to
apply first some sort of primer in order to
avoid chipping. Mr Hobby ‘s Mr. Metal
Primer-R gives excellent results, can be
applied by hand and dries pretty quickly.

EXAMPLE 1: LITTLE USE

1 2 3

4 5

1. As we’ve mentioned earlier, we paint the shovel with black paint and we’ve done this using AV 950 Black.
The satin look we’ve seen in pictures is recreated by rubbing paint once dry. We do this by simply rubbing the
shovel with a soft and short bristled paintbrush. The result will be a black satin finish very similar to its real
life counterpart. This is the base for all the shovel examples to follow.
2. The simplest example to do will be of a shovel that has lost some of its black paint on the areas exposed to
greatest friction. We are talking of course of the rim. Initially we’ll use pencil lead to convey this. The results
were pretty convincing, but we thought it best to exaggerate the metallic sheen, because when dealing with
such a small shovel this effect can go altogether unnoticed.
3-4. We also wanted to put some dirt on this shovel. We did this by using A.MIG’s 3516 Oilbrusher “Dust”
paint melted with A.MIG’s 2019 enamel thinner.
5. Finally we dot the shovel’s surface with a worn brush in order to create the small paint chips insisting on
the tip of the tool. The color employed is A.MIG’s 194 “Aluminum”.
/ 60

60-63_Aula_OK.indd 60 7/3/18 20:25

 EXAMPLE 2: MODERATE USE

In the second place we decided to make
a shovel with a little more use; a shovel
with some rusting between the black base
and the rim with a larger bare metal sur-
face. The location of rust tells us that the
6 7
8 9
black base paint has eroded away that far
back, but it has been a little random; more
recent use has ended up polishing the tip
of the rim.
6. This effect has been recreated
by dotting the surface with an old
stiff bristled paintbrush that is
going to make the micro dots that
we’re looking for. The rust hue
employed in this case is Panzer
Aces AV’s 303.
7. The visible metal surface in the
tip is recreated by dotting the area
with an old flat brush with a worn
tip. This is done by gently rubbing
the area as if we were using the
drybrush technique, but with a far
more loaded brush. We rub just a
little the rusted area but we insist
more as we go towards the tip
of the shovel. We’ve used again
A.MIG’s 194 “Aluminum”.
8-9. Finally, we create a little dirt
this time by rubbing some dry
color pigments. AV’s 73111 has a
pretty light hue which is perfect
for the results we’re after.

EXAMPLE 3: RUSTED

In the third place we wanted to make a shovel that has sat unused for a while and has more rusted areas especially on its tip. We
start with the same polished black surface, polished with a short soft bristled paintbrush.

10 11 12

10. In the first place we apply
pencil lead throughout the shovel
to recreate the metal under the
black paint primer which is almost
gone.
11. Then we smear the surface
using a cotton swab in order to
unify the gloss and get rid of any
possible pencil lines.
12. In order to reproduce the older
rust, we’ll use Panzer Aces AV’s
301. We dot the surface using a
round tipped hard bristled uneven
tipped paintbrush that will give us
the tiny dotting that we’re after.

61 /

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 13-14. We’ll repeat the operation
13 14
using Panzer Aces AV 303, for
the more recent rust, giving us
a greater color range and more
depth in terms of texture. We’ll
try not to fully cover the previous
rust hue.

EXAMPLE 4: A VERY RECENT USE

The final shovel will be recreating a very recent use. It will not have any rusting, the tip will be quite polished and some dirt will
also be present.

15 16 17

15. We’ll start once again with the rubbed satin black base using the drybrushing technique for the first half of
the shovel. We’ll insist more as we reach the tip. The color chosen in this case has been Model Color’s AV 865.
16-17. The light layer of dirt will be recreated by applying a small amount of previously diluted oil paint with
thinner 2019 from A. MIG. The A. MIG 3524 “Oilbrusher Earth Clay” color will give us a perfect clay hue.

From here you can do your own combinations and also try other techniques and media. The possibilities are certainly endless; a
shovelfull! Now it’s your turn so careful with the blistering.

LANDSCAPES
LANDS 101
Snow /Nieve

16€ LANDS 103

Stones/Piedras

LANDS 102
Mosses/Musgos
10€
10€
www.landscapesindetail.com • www.euromodelismo.com
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 63 /

60-63_Aula_OK.indd 63 7/3/18 20:27

 Editorial Management
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
J. David Hernández Chacón
Editor in Chief
Michel Pérez Blasco
Have collaborated in this issue
Armour Modelling Magazine Domingo Hernández,
Joaquín García Gázquez,
Mikolaj Marcinowski,
Chema Cabrero,
EDITORIAL Özgur Günner,
Translated by
MODELERS, REAR ENDS AND OTHER OPINIONS Andrés Pérez Fernández
Photographers
It is a curious exercise to look at the different ways of how things are viewed by Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
all of us sharing this hobby. I would say that for each individual modeler there is a
Illustrations
different viewpoint. There are multi-discipline modelers, those who specialize on Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
a particular type of vehicle, and those who are only interested on a specific subject
Lay Out
-such as the battle of Iwo Jima for instance-, summertime modelers, exhibition KOMMAD S.L.
modelers, contest modelers…
Printed by
I know a large modeler in every way who does small things with many colors
Artes Gráficas Dharma
and small lights in an outstanding way. There is a large headed fellow who can
Scanning & filmsetting
never be persuaded to drop his paintbrush; airbrushes are the Devil’s tool. There
ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
are also scary cat modelers that need to be constantly told to paint. And the J. David Hernández Chacón
curious thing is that in spite of his lack of courage, the fellow has a good hand.
Computer Graphics
Some are very happily retired from work and do nothing but model kit after model J. David Hernández Chacón
kit. There are also a few grandpa type modelers that say things like: “when I
Editorial and Technical Staff,
was in Kosovo…” There are also those who paint tools in a silver hue. I know
Administration and Advertising
somebody who only does one model kit per year; a fast build, a small kit that can ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
be done in a maximum of fifteen days, creating the perfect excuse to assist any c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
given contest. But what this person really wants is to eat and drink in the parties 28017 Madrid
afterwards as if he were accumulating the steel balls inside paint cans instead of Tel.: +34 913 675 708
olives. I feel a special admiration for those who participate in contests year after +34 914 086 135
year with the greatest sense of sportsmanship, no matter what the results may be. Fax: +34 914 085 841
There are also folks who don’t know how to make a model kit without replacing accionpress@euromodelismo.com
at least 90% of its pieces. There are people who only do kits straight from the box. Suscripciones
There are also a few smarty pants who disregard anybody with a different opinion. Tel.: +34 913 675 708
Poor folks. We can’t forget to mention people who collect unfinished kits. And Published by
those who collect only the model kit boxes. Manufacturers would actually be ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
lost without them. Some people actually enjoy hunting for bargains online, but ISSN: 1886-4457
fail to build the kit once it gets home. I’m sure you all know somebody willing to
make a full diorama of the entire Normandy, Omaha beach shebang. We should The reproduction of the images
also mention the rivet counters who are a species entirely of their own. We also and texts is prohibited, using any
have the Caravaggios who are the kings of chiaroscuro, the pigment sprinklers, or current or future technical medium
those who make paint chips out of thin air, the lettuce green or Smurf blue lovers, without written consent of the
those folks abducted by impossible lights or bumper car painters. Did I mention author. ACCION PRESS, S.A.
does not necessarily support its
the frustrated historians? The medal hunters? The alchemists? Obviously there are
collaborators’ opinions.
also some geniuses capable of doing the best paint chips with a paintbrush tied
to an ear. There are also the hard working modelers who improve kit after kit out
of sheer effort. I also have a special mention for the physically handicapped who
continue with the hobby no matter what. There are also generous fellas who share
everything with you without ever expecting anything in return. In the modeling
universe we also have big stars, small stars and star struck folks. But above all, I
find lots of normal healthy people who really get a kick out getting together and
putting together a few styrene pieces.
Are you any of these fellows? No way, don’t even think about it, you are none www.euromodelismo.com
of them; any similarity with the fictional characters described here is a mere coin- www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
cidence. Just like in the movies. Magazine?fref=ts

Editorial_57.indd 1 7/3/18 20:26

Interior Contraportada57.indd 1 7/3/18 20:25
 More than 200
large German
WWII AFV
profiles.
New camouflage
interpretations
derived from the
latest research.

SECOND ISSUE IN
THIS SERIES
NOW AVAILABLE Perfiles

Don’t miss out the first

volume with the German
Profiles AFV’s from the 1935-
1943 period.
TANKS. 1935-1945

Two companion
INSIGNIA OF THE GERMAN

volumes dealing with

the colors, camouflag
rk analyzes in depth the
Panzer vehicles during
and emblems of the
period between 1933
ich. This is the historical power in Germany
rose to
45, when the Nazis up
expansion that ended
ng a policy of territorial

all camouflage and all

into World War II. it
t with many color plates,
llustrated throughou
period pictures, detailed
TO CAMOUFLAGE AND

cludes a number of tanks:

the mythical German
ns, color profiles of IV.
Panzer III and Panzer
I, Panzer II, Panzer 38(t), can
of the armored vehicles

markings of the German

lor of the inner parts schematic cuts or
the four
e admired thanks to
It also has different
c renderings included. n
view plans, and a compilatio
uflage patterns in four
he unit emblems. document which gives
PROFILES 1 - GUIDE

m it all up, this is a valuable n for those people

Panzers during WWII

mely valuable informatio
sted in this subject. Accion Press

ia
lage and insign
Guide to camouf ks. 1935-1945
of the German Tan

www.euromodelismo.com • web@euromodelismo.com

PUB_EM.indd 63 7/3/18 18:05