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Halloumi cheese: The product and its

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Article in International Journal of Dairy Technology · August 2007

DOI: 10.1111/j.1471-0307.1998.tb02646.x

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Vol. 51, No 3 August 1998 I n ferncrtionul .Iortrnaf qf Dairy Terhnologj.

Halloumi cheese: the product and its characteristics

PHOTIS PAPADEMAS and RICHARD K ROBINSON*

Department of Food Science & Technology, PO Box 226, University of Reading, Reading,
Berkshire RG6 6AP, UK

Halloumi, the traditional cheese of Cyprus, is extremely popular in the Middlc Eust uiid the
Mediterranean regions of Europe and in recent years exports from Cyprus have risen. The basic
cheesemaking process places halloumi in the family of white brined cheeses, but some of its
characteristics are quite unique. This paper reviews the studies that have been carried out on the
chemical composition, manufacturing procedure(s), sensory quality and storage of halloumi, and
considers some proposed developments, such as the use of reconstituted milk powders or
homogenized milk.

INTRODUCTION less viscous. For local use, the cheese may

Cheesemaking is a practice that has been per-
formed for several thousands of years, pri-
marily as a means of preserving the milk.
Early records suggest that cheesemaking
dates back as far as 6000-7000 BC’ and, later,
Homer circa 1184 BC in the classic work The
Odyssey refers to cheese being made from
ovine and caprine milks by the ‘Cyclops’ in
local caves. Herodotus, the father of History,
and the great philosopher Aristotle also refer
to special cheeses of local origin.’
Many of the varieties of cheese that are
made today in the eastern Mediterranean and
the Middle East are probably derived from
these early products, and halloumi may well
be among them. Although halloumi was orig-
inally only popular in Cyprus, its appeal has
spread worldwide, and exports into the
European Union (EU), for example, have
risen from 300 metric tonnes in 1990 to 764
metric tonnes in 1996; the UK absorbs more
than 60% of the total imports into the EU
from Cyprus every year.*
MANUFACTURE OF HALLOUMI CHEESE
Traditional halloumi cheese, which is of
Cypriot origin, is semihard to hard, elastic,
has no obvious skinlrind and the texture is
close with no holes and it is easily sliced.
Its colour varies from white (when ovine or
caprine milk is used) to yellowish (when
bovine milk is the main ingredient).3 It can be
consumed raw, but it is usually grilled, fried
or grated over a hot dish. When halloumi is
heated, the texture is comparable to that of
the raw product, but the stretch and melt
characteristics are altered quite markedly. On
heating, molten halloumi has been described
as a concentrated viscoelastic polymer solu-
Review.
tioq4 in that at low values of applied strain,
*Author for
correspondence. viscous flow is apparent and elasticity is not
0 1998 Society of so evident, while with increasing values of
Dairy Technology strain, the response is more elastic and much
be stored in salted whey for a considerable
period of time, and the amount of salt in the
whey is important with respect to the stability
of the cheese.
As halloumi is a traditional cheese, the
procedures of manufacture vary from place
to place throughout Cyprus, and this situa-
tion creates a lot of confusion as to which is
the ‘correct’ procedure. This issue is a point
of some importance, as the Government
of Cyprus wishes to protect the identity of
the cheese by imposing a uniform system
of production.
Specified method of manufacture
The manufacture of halloumi cheese has been
assessed during a number of ~ t u d i e s , ~and
-~
is now controlled by regulations from
Government bodies.’ The overall procedure is
shown in Fig. 1, and a crucial step in the man-
ufacturing process is the cooking stage; by
law; the blocks of cheese must be heated
for at least 30 minutes at a temperature
higher than 90°C. After the cooking stage,
halloumi cheese attains the ‘chicken breast’
characteristic of developing cheddar cheese.
The blocks (10 X 15 X 3 cm) are then dry
salted and sprinkled with crushed leaves of
dry mint, Mentha viridis, before being folded
in half. The blocks are then piled into a con-
venient container and, after chilling overnight,
salted whey is poured into the container until
the blocks are covered. This fresh halloumi is
kept in the salted whey for approximately 3
hours, before being shrink wrapped ready for
distribution. For local consumption, halloumi
cheese may be sold in plastic or glass con-
tainers filled with salted whey.
Various factors can affect the quality of
the finished halloumi, and the timeltempera-
ture profile within the cheese during the cook-
ing stage is crucial. Half cooked curds will
give an irregular colour (greenish) in the cen-
tre of the block, and the rate of temperature

98
Vol, 51, No 3 August 1998 International Journal of Dairy Technology

Fresh pasteurized ovine, caprine, bovine examined as well: and differences in the
milk or a mixture percentages of fat and protein between the

i
Coagulation with rennet at 33kl"C
two milks affected the yield of the cheese.
Alterations in the technology were rated as
important in the following respects: (i) the
for 40-60 min. cooking time of the cheese should be shorter

J-
Curd cutting to 1 cm3 grains
when using ovine milk alone; and (ii) the
pressure applied to the initial curd in order to
expel the whey has to be greater and applied

i
The coagulum rests and precipitates
for a longer period of time when bovine milk
is the main ingredient. Economides et all0
employed pure ovine, caprine and bovine
for 10 min milks for the production of halloumi cheese,

i
Pressure of 550 Pa of curd for 1 h
and a mixture of equal parts of ovine and
caprine milks. The chemical composition of
the cheeses was determined (see Table l), and

Cut into blocks (10

4 X 15 x 3 cm)
multiple linear regressions were utilized to
develop prediction equations for cheese out-
put from the four types of milk. Total fat,
protein and casein were regarded as impor-
i
Blocks placed in hot whey, 9496°C
tant variables in predicting cheese output, as
was the casein to fat ratio.

i-
Cook for 1 h
Chemical composition
According to the Cypriot Standards, the fin-
J-
Drain and cool
ished product should contain a maximum 3%
of sodium chloride and a minimum fat-in-dry
matter level of 43%. The maximum moisture
J.
Dry salted (3% wiw), and sprinkled
content for halloumi cheese is 46%. Most
products on the market meet these require-
ments, and some typical analyses are shown
with dry Mentha viridis leaves; in Table 1.
fold crossways and leave to chill overnight Shaker et als examined which manufactur-
4
Storage in 11% NaCl whey or
ing variables influenced the chemical compo-
sition and physical and sensory properties of
halloumi cheese made from bovine milk. The
shrink wrap composition was measured in terms of mois-
Fig. 1. Traditional process for production of halloumi ture-non-fat substance (MNFS), fat-in-dry
cheese. matter (FDM), salt-in-moisture (S/M) and
pH. The calcium to solids-non-fat-non-salt
increase in the centre of the block depends (Ca/SNFNS) was also determined as it could
heavily on its dimension^.^ Contrasts between be an important factor with respect to the
the use of ovine or bovine milks have been stretchability of heated cheese. The authors

99
VoI. 51, No 3 August I998
concluded that improved stretch and melt
characteristics, and a tender mouth feel of the
heated cheese, could be achieved by lowering
both the pH of the cheese and the Ca/SNFNS
ratio. Tenderness with respect to mouth feel
also improved at high levels of MNFS.
Although the traditional cheese is always
made with ovine milk-a raw material that is
in short supply, the growing market demand
for halloumi has raised the fear that manu-
facturers may attempt to adulterate ovine
milk with the bovine equivalent. The possi-
bility of detecting bovine milk in halloumi
cheese that should be of ovine origin was
examined by Kaminarides et all1 using poly-
acrylamide gel electrophoresis (PAGE). This
approach was based on the fact that the elec-
trophoretic mobility of bovine and ovine a,l-
caseins differ, with bovine a,l -casein showing
more rapid migration. The electrophoretic
profile of this specific casein ( a , ~was
) chosen
because it remains almost intact during both
cheese manufacture (cooking of the curd) and
cold storage under brine (7% NaCl).
For the detection of bovine milk, samples
of halloumi cheese at 1 day and 40 days after
production were subjected to PAGE. A den-
sitometer, adjusted with the asl-casein band
from genuine bovine halloumi cheese, was
used to quantify the level of bovine milk pre-
sent in the adulterated samples by expressing
the density of the band for bovine o&-casein of
each sample as a percentage of that from gen-
uine bovine milk. The authors detected per-
centages as low as 2.5% bovine milk in
samples of ovine halloumi cheese, irrespective
of the age of the cheese. Linear relationships
between the densities of the bovine &I-casein
bands in the adulterated samples and the per-
centages of bovine milk in the cheeses were
found to be between 2.5% and 10% levels of
adulteration, and regression equations were
produced. These equations made it easy to cal-
culate levels of bovine milk higher than 2.5%
in cheese samples of unknown composition.
Although Tamime et aZ'* suggested that
immunological techniques could be employed
100
International Journal of Dairy Technology
to detect the adulteration of ovine milk with
bovine milk used for the manufacture of
kishk, Kaminarides et all' believed that the
severe heat treatment employed during the
manufacture of halloumi cheese would, in the
present context, invalidate the procedure.
Physical properties of halloumi
As mentioned above, halloumi cheese should
melt and stretch on heating, which means that
the compact texture of the cheese will be
partly lost and a degree of flow introduced to
the melted cheese. These properties are often
referred to as the 'meltability' and 'stretcha-
bility' of the cheese and, although obvious to
the consumer, they are characteristics that are
not easy to quantify.
Nevertheless, attempts to assess these fea-
tures and, in one study, the meltability of hal-
loumi cheese was determined' by measuring
the percentage increase in area after cubes of
cheese (2 cm sides) were placed in sealed alu-
minium dishes and held in a boiling water
bath for 25 minutes. The stretchability was
measured by placing pieces of cheese pre-
warmed in a water bath at 85°C for 4.5 min-
utes onto the base plate of an Instron Testing
Instrument (Instron Ltd, High Wycombe,
UK), and then with a special hook, stretching
the soft cheese until the strand broke; the
length of the strand at the point of breaking
was recorded. The relevant figures are shown
in Table 2, along with some com arable data
relating to mozzarella B
An alterna-
tive method for measuring meltability is the
Schreiber Test,ls which involves positioning
round samples of cheese in glass petri dishes,
and then placing the dishes in an oven at
232°C for exactly 5 minutes.I6 The dishes are
removed from the oven, and the increase in
diameter of the melted cheese over the original
is recorded after approximately 30 minutes.
However, the problem with tests of this
type is that they are rarely reproducible, and
the comparison of the results in Table 2 for
meltability suggests that the variation is
between techniques rather than products; it is
most unlikely that halloumi cheese would
spread on heating more than mozzarella.
Nevertheless, the values for relative stretcha-
bility are more in line with the expected
results, in that the properties of mozzarella
made from fresh milk are quite different from
those made from the recombined material;
the same appears to be true for halloumi.
The effect of homogenization pressure on
the physical properties of mozzarella cheese can
be seen from the results obtained by Lelievre et
aL4 The most likely explanation is that, as
the homogenization pressure is raised, the
increased number of small fat globules retain
additional casein at the fat-water interface. The
formation of permanent crosslinks between
the casein micelles then effectively traps the fat
phase, so reducing the flow properties of the
Vol. 51, No 3 August 1998 International Journal of Dairy Technology

heated cheese; a similar trend is evident with have little in common with other brined
halloumi cheese. This hypothesis also explains cheeses like feta or domiati, as the cooking of
the action of lecithin, in that by forming a sur- the curd causes considerable losses. Indeed, the
face film over the fat globules, the lecithin coat- main volatiles found in commercial halloumi
ing prevents the casein micelles from adsorbing cheese were an unidentified lactone, probably
onto the fat-water interface; the crosslinking arising from the breakdown of fat, and some
reactions are, therefore, limited, so leaving the alcohols, acids and phenols arising from the
cheese to stretch and flow under stress. degradation of amino acids. Partial Least
Whether or not the use of recombined milk Square regression analysis was used to predict
has exaggerated the proposed interactions is mean sensory scores from the headspace data,
not clear, but a similar effect was reported by and a ‘minty’ flavour was predicted successful-
Apostolopoulos,’3who compared the stretch- ly from the presence of pulegone, ‘mint ter-
ability of mozzarella cheese manufactured by pene’ and carvone. The presence of a fatty
a standard procedure with the properties of flavour was loosely predicted on the basis of
mozzarella cheese made with homogenized two compounds only-acetic acid and an
milk (17.2 MPa). In the case of the standard unidentified compound-while predictions of
cheese, the average stretchability was 53 cm creamy and milky associated with nonanone
but, probably for the reasons given earlier, and phenol were adequate.
homogenization reduced this figure to 27 cm. Two points worth mentioning in this con-
Neither the ripening time during manufac- text are: (i) the complete absence of starter
ture nor time in storage affect significantly the cultures and/or enzymes in both the tradition-
stretch values of mozzarella cheese,13 proba- al and current cheesemaking practices apart,
bly because any potential proteolytic activity of course, from the rennet which is used to
from residual coagulant is prevented by the coagulate the milk and the natural enzymes
heat treatment of the curd (58-60°C). This present in the milk; and (ii) traditionally,
inactivation means that any degradation of ovine and/or caprine milks were used for the
the paracasein is limited as, consequently, are manufacture of halloumi but nowadays the
changes in the melting characteristics of the large dairies use bovine milk almost exclu-
cheese. The cooking of halloumi is likely to sively. This gradual transition towards bovine
have a similar effect, but the influence of
milk has resulted from the low levels of pro-
other aspects of processing might merit fur-
duction of ovine and caprine milks, but the
ther attention.
For example, Renda et all6 reported that change has had an impact on the sensory
the meltability of mozzarella cheese was quality of the cheese, since the ‘old’ aroma
affected by the speed of mechanical mixer and flavour have been lost.
screws used for stretching the curd during The use of starter cultures to ripen pasteur-
manufacture. In particular, the highest screw ized milk prior to coagulation has been sug-
speed resulted in a cheese with lower moisture gested as a means to enhance the flavour
and FDM contents, and these compositional profile,” and a mixture of mesophilic bacteria,
changes reduced the meltability values eg, Lactococcus lactis subsp lactis and
obtained with the Schreiber Test. Processing Lactococcus lactis subsp cremoris, or ther-
variables, such as the time and temperature mophilic species like Streptococcus tho-
of pressing, that could affect the moisture mophilus might be considered. Papademas
content of halloumi cheese could be equally (unpublished data) has examined the employ-
important, and this aspect of halloumi manu- ment of coccus: rod mixtures of thermophilic
facture could merit further attention. microorganisms, such as Strep thermophilus
and Lactobacillus helveticus, a combination
Sensory features of halloumi that shows both high proteolytic and acidify-
The analysis of volatiles of halloumi and their ing a~tivity.’~-’’Whether this proposal will
relationship with flavour has been r e p ~ r t e d , ’ ~provide halloumi from bovine milk with a
and a panel of 11 assessors used Quantitative more intense flavour remains to be established.
Descriptive Analysis to profile the flavour and
texture attributes of raw, fried and grilled hal- Storage conditions and microbiology
loumi cheese. Principal Component Analysis It has been determined that halloumi cheese
of the sensory data highlighted significant dif- can be stored successfully for a week at 20°C or
ferences between individual product-cooking for 40 days at 4°C and during storage the salt
combinations, and specific analyses of the and moisture contents increase as the cheese
flavour components differentiated between absorbed brine.22The change in levels of solu-
sweet and sour sensations. The descriptors for ble nitrogen was minimal during storage, so
texture ranged from coarse and grainy to confirming that proteolytic activity is limited.
milky and creamy, and the ‘milky, creamy This latter observation is accounted for by the
and fatty’ characters of halloumi cheese were high temperatures employed when the curd is
easily detected by assessors when the cheese cooked, which eliminates most of the microor-
was heated. ganisms that could initiate proteolytic and/or
The volatiles in halloumi cheese, as detected lipolytic action; >1o3colony forming units (cfu)
by gas chromatography (headspace analysis) g-’ were reported for fresh halloumi.”

101
Vol. 51, No 3 August 1998 International Journal of Dairy Technology

which high protein powders4erived from

ultrafiltered (UF) milk-were reconstituted to
give 16.8% protein; the use of UF skim milk
powders from milks fortified with calcium
chloride or acidified was explored as well.
The results showed that the degree of the
preheat treatment of the SMP powders had a
statistically significant effect on the physical
properties of the final cheeses, but not on
their chemical composition. In particular, low
heat treated powders performed better than
the high heat ones in producing a cheese with
the stretching and melting properties expected
of halloumi cheese, and O'Keefe and PhelanZ6
arrived at the same conclusion. As far as the
However, as shown in Table 3, halloumi performance of the high protein powders was
cheese is by no means free from bacteria and concerned, the stretch and melt characteristics
after only 4 days' storage at 20°C the number were reasonable for cheeses made from both
of microorganisms in the centre of a block of normal (3.5% protein) and concentrated
cheese increased to >lo6 cfu g-'; during cold (16.8% protein) recombined milks.
storage, it took around six weeks to reach the The differences in composition between the
same figure. Spore formers like Bacillus con- autumn and summer powders was important,
tribute to these microflora, but thermoduric and the better values for stretchability and
species in the milk and contaminants from the meltability were observed in halloumi cheese
salt or mint leaves will elevate the numbers as made from skim milk powder manufactured
well. Yeasts are often isolated from halloumi in the autumn. The physical properties of hal-
cheese, particularly on the surface of the indi-loumi cheese were also affected by the various
vidual blocks, and the presence of postpasteur- calcium levels in the U F powders. Thus the
ization contaminants raises the question of stretching and melting properties were more
safety. For example, Gohil et aP3 found that pronounced in cheeses made from milks
Listeria monocytogenes could survive in the based on U F powders derived from acidified
brine used to transport feta cheese and, milk than in the control cheeses or those
although the numbers were probably low, the made from calcium fortified powders. The
result did highlight the need for high standardslow level of calcium in the acidified milk pow-
of hygiene operating during cheese packaging. der was alleged to be responsible for the bet-
The option of employing high salt concen- ter melt and flow characteristics, since the
trations to eradicate pathogens has been con- formation of permanent calcium phosphate
sidered, but while L monocytogenes may be crosslinkages, which prevent the cheese from
inhibited by sodium chloride concentrations flowing on heating, was reduced. Overall, the
above lo%, Kaminarides and AnifantakisZ4 results seemed to demonstrate that halloumi
showed that around such levels flavour cheese with good physical properties can be
becomes the major consideration. In addition, produced from recombined milks, as long as
the Regulations in Cyprus state that the max- the calciudSNFNS ratio is low.
imum salt content in the retail cheese should
be 3%. Process and quality control
Robinson et a13 and Robinson'' reviewed a
ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURES FOR MANUFAC- number of studies in which particular atten-
TURE tion was paid to increasing the output and
Use of milk powders in the production of quality of halloumi cheese. The use of fresh
halloumi cheese milks concentrated by ultrafiltration was con-
Since halloumi has become very popular in the sidered to offer some advantages with respect
Middle East and fresh milk is not available in to plant requirements as, due to the retention
any quantity, the use of reconstituted skim of the whey proteins, this approach would
milk powder (SMP) blended with anhydrous increase the yield of the cheese; however, the
milk fat (AMF) has been considered. Some of impact on quality would need careful con-
the preliminary results have been discussed, sideration. The suggested exposure of the
but modification of the properties of the milk pressed curd to microwaves3as an alternative
powder could offer a route for improvement. to the traditional cooking stage has been pro-
In particular, Lelievre et aZ2' modified skim posed as a system that would allow for an
milk powder by changing its preheat treat- increase in automation; the effect of a
ment from 68 to 72"C, and examined powders microwave treatment on the sensory proper-
that were manufactured at different times ties of the finished cheese does, however, need
throughout the year, ie, spring, summer and further investigation. In addition, as the
autumn. Additional batches of halloumi procedure is not mentioned in the Cyprus
cheese were made from process milks in Standards for the manufacture of halloumi

102
 Vol. 51, No 3 August I998
cheese, the use of the procedure could cause
legal problems as far as the identity of the
cheese is concerned.
Some standard methods for the sampling
of milk and milk products are included in the
Cyprus Standards, as are methods for the
chemical and microbiological analyses of the
same it ern^.*^-^^ The compilation of such stan-
dards has proved to be valuable as far as the
drive to improve the quality of halloumi
cheese is concerned, but finding uniform
methods of analysis for the physical or
organoleptic properties of the product may be
more difficult.
Photis Papademas wishes to thank the Cyprus
Milk Industry Organization (CMIO) for
financial support, and Keses Dairy, Limassol,
Cyprus, for their helpful discussions.
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