INTERNSHIP REPORT

ON
Merchandising Department
At Gokaldas Intimate
wears pvt.ltd (Enamor Brand)
 UNIT - 1
INTRODUCTION OF COMPANY

GOKALDAS INTIMATEWEAR PVT.LTD

GOKALDAS EXPORTS

The country's largest apparel exporter ,was found by brothers Mr Dinesh Hinduja and Mr
Rajendra Hinduja ,which shifted gears from being a family-run business to a professionally run
entity.The Hindujas have been nurturing the company for 42 years now.

Jagadish Hinduja is the managing director of Gokaldas intimate wears private limited.Gokaldas
intimate wears private limited,Located in Yeshwantpur, Bangalore was created as a joint venture
between Gokaldas Images Private Limited and Barbara of Paris, France in 2001.GIPL launched
the brand ENAMOR in 2003, to present a range of lingerie exclusively made for the Indian
woman. [1]
INTIMATE WEARS
Undergarments worn next to the skin and under outer garments.Back then, only a few
brands catered to the women of the upper society. With the fast growing economy, there was a
definite need for premium lingerie.

While Gokaldas had expertise in manufacturing bras, retailing and understanding needs of Indian
women, Barbara familiarised the technical know-how and fitting expertise.The company em-
ploys over 1500 people including skilled factory workers. As manufacturing capability is the
key to success for any lingerie brand, GIPL invested in a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in
Bangalore spanning across 70,000 square feet. The current capacity is 4 million pieces annually,
scalable to 10 million pieces. [1]

Enamors core consumer is a woman who’s independent, confident, successful and is fabulous,
the way she is. She pays great attention to the way she dresses and is constantly seeking novelty-
a mindset that paved way to the early success of the brand. [1]

Regional stocking points were set up across the country to service multi-brand outlets and ensure
delivery in 24 hours. In order to do so, Distributors and C & F Agents are appointed in all major
metros and state capitals of the country. [1]

Today, Enamor has expanded its distribution to over 3000 MBOs, 350 counters across chain
stores in Shoppers’ Stop, Westside, Lifestyle, Pantaloons, Reliance Trends, Central and 12 of its
own exclusive EBOs, with a network of more than 50 distributors. [1]

The design process starts with analyzing international trends, understanding need gaps of con-
sumers and delivering the best fitting product for different body shapes. Enamor is the only com-
pany in India that offers multi-size fits and wearer trials to ensure that every style meets the Indi-
an body requirements. [1]
 BRAND - ENAMOR
Fabulous, as I am
Enamor believes that lingerie is a woman's most intimate expression of herself and that the
right one can make every woman feel fabulous, every day. This thought has led to the brand of-
fering the new age Indian woman the widest, and most fashionable range of premium lingerie
online that has everything from bras, panties, shape wear to sportswear, night wear and stylish
athliesure for women.[2]

Ever since the brand was launched in collaboration with Barbara of Paris, Enamor has built a
strong bond with the consumer, to ensure that every style meets Indian body requirements by be-
ing the only brand to offer wearer trials, and multi-size fits. Our collection provides a wide range
of fashionable and comfortable bras like push up, padded, non-padded, wired, non-wired, strap-
less, multi ways etc. and it is best in comfort, as well as stylish panties, yoga pants, body shaper,
sportswear etc.[2]

Enamor believes that feeling fabulous everyday should be an effortless affair.They ensure this
through their luxurious range of fashionable premium lingerie that helps you feel good from the
inside to the out!From bras, panties, shapewear to sportswear and stylish nightwear-they have
something for every taste.[2]

They offer bra size calculator and panty size chart to make the online lingerie shopping for
women really easy. Understanding the new age Indian woman's sense of 'I love me' - they have
built a strong bond and are proud to be a name one hears often amongst ladies across ages.[2]

The goal of each of their offerings at Enamor has always been to provide international trends that
meet global quality standards to our consumers. With this in mind, Enamor endeavours to create
lingerie that enables the experience of feeling fabulous every day![2]

ENAMOR PRODUCTS:[2]
1.BRA
▪ BY STYLES- T shirt Bra, Push Up Bra,Multi star Bra, Balconette Bra, Plunge Bra,Nurs-
ing Bra

▪ BY PREFERENCE- Padded Bra, Non padded Bra,Wired Bra, wire free Bra

▪ BY COVERAGE - Low Coverage Bra, Medium Coverage Bra, High Coverage Bra

▪ BY COLLECTION-Spring summer 2018,Autumn Winter 2017,Fabulous brides, Must

haves,Full and fabulous
 ▪ BY FABRIC- Cotton Bra, Supima Cotton Bra, Lace Bra

2.PANTIES
▪ BY CATEGORY- Low waist,Mid waist,Body shorts, hipster, Bikini, Co-Ordinates

▪ BY FABRIC- Lace, Mesh, Polyamide, Satin,Stretch Cotton, Stretch Modal

3.NIGHTWEARS
▪ BY CATEGORY- Glamour, Essentials

▪ BY SILHOUETTE- Babydoll, Chemise, Tops , Bottoms

4.SHAPE WEAR
▪ BY SILHOUETTE-Body slimmer, Hi waist thigh slimmer,Hi waist slimmer, Torso slim-
mer,Tummy slimmer

▪ BY FABRIC- Lace,Polyamide, Seamless

5.SPORTS WEAR AND ATHLIESURE

▪ BY STYLE- All, Bras, Panties

▪ BY IMPACT-High impact sports Bra, Medium impact sports Bra, Low impact sports Bra

ENAMOR’S STRENGTH,COMPETITORS,RETAIL
STRATEGY AND GOAL

STRENGTH
The USP of Enamor lies in the variety of sizes it offers-from 32 B to 42 DD. Rightly positioned
as the best-fitting bra, Enamor was the first brand that made D cups easily available in
India. Enamor has won hearts since and grown to be the most trusted brand amongst urban Indian
ladies - recently recognised as Super brand 2014-15!

COMPETITORS
Popular brands like Victoria’s Secret, Jockey, Amante, Lovable, Clovia, Zivame,Triumph, Ulti-
mo,M&S,Wonder love are some of the greatest competitors for Enamor.

RETAIL STRATEGY
The retail strategy involved modular shops in large format stores with trained counter consul-
tants.

GOAL
 At Enamor, they constantly strive to design styles that meet global standards and keep up with
the ever-changing consumer tastes.Their goal is to create lingerie that makes every woman feel
confident and stylish, as lingerie is the most intimate expression of herself. With Enamor, she can
take home an experience that lets her feel fabulous inside and out, every day.

AIM AND OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

AIM: To learn and understand the importance and responsibilities of several departments in the
fashion industry.

OBJECTIVES:To understand the responsibilities of Merchandising department and other de-

partments.
To understand the topics that are related to merchandising department like:

1.COSTING:Apparel costing in the garment making process is one of the most complex proce-
dures.There are lot things that go into pricing a single piece of clothing. Purchasing of raw mate-
rials, cost of dyeing, knitting, printing, transport cost, packaging, banking charges, overheads and
cost of trims and accessories used all are included in it. The merchandiser and the top manage-
ment of a company are actively involved in deciding the cost of a garment.[3]

The garment industry follows different techniques to determine the cost. However, broadly the
following things are taken into consideration: type of fabric, trims used, garment testing, cost of
logistics, profit of the organization, and value added services (printing, embroidery, washing, ap-
pliqué). There are other details that go into calculating the cost of a garment like unit of mea-
surement, quantity of the order, and type of dyeing and finishes used.

2.PRODUCTION FOLLOW UP:Follow up is checking the manufacturing activities systemati-

cally so that production may be carried out according to plan. It is the measurement of output
against plan, analysis of the performance for shortcomings if any and following up the manage-
ment in order to apply corrective action to prevent excessive shortfall.[4]
3.PURCHASE REQUISITION:Purchase requisitions are a document used when an employee
needs to make a purchase or an order request on behalf of their company. It is a document that is
used to inform department managers or the purchasing officer of the decision so that the purchas-
ing department can start the purchasing process.[5]

4.BILL OF MATERIALS:A bill of materials (BOM) is an extensive list of raw materials, compo-
nents and assemblies required to construct, manufacture or repair a product or service. A bill of
materials usually appears in a hierarchical format, with the highest level displaying the finished
product and the bottom level showing individual components and materials. There are different
types of bills of materials specific to engineering used in the design process, and specific to man-
ufacturing used in the assembling process.[6]

5.Lab dip and shipment samples-A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It
is a process by which buyer's supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the
laboratory with or without help of spectrophotometer.
Shipment sample is needed after completing final inspection, when goods are ready for the ship-
ment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to Q.C, folding, tagging, bagging,
labelling and final packaging included.[7]

6.FABRIC CONSUMPTION:Fabric consumption is defined as average meter(s) (or Kgs for

knits) of fabric required to make the garment. Generally fabric consumption is calculated using
following steps - Pattern master develops patterns for the garment with seam margin.[8]

FABRIC CONSUMPTION FORMULA:

7.PRE-PRODUCTION PROCESS:The processes that are done prior to start of bulk garment pro-
duction are known as pre-production process. From sample development, approvals, research and
development work for orders, testing of raw material to pre-production meeting are pre-produc-
tion process. Pre-production processes are very important for the efficient production. A typical
garment export house generally has following pre-production processes:[8]

Meeting with buyers —->Development of initial samples for the buyer—->Costing of

garment (complete cost as well as manufacturing cost) —->Pattern making, correction of pattern,
pattern grading —->Fit sample, size set sample making and approval from buyer
—->Correction of fit samples according to buyer comments—->Production planning, Material
planning and line planning —->Placing order for fabrics, trims, accessories and packing materials
—->Testing of fabrics and other raw materials —->Study of approved sample—->Pre-production
meeting

8.PHOTOSHOOT SAMPLE:This sample is required by the buyers who are having their own re-
tail chain stores throughout the country. These buyers regularly make a catalogue of their prod-
ucts. They are normally known as catalogue buyers. This catalogue will have all the details about
the product like season style, style no, price range and also will carry the photos of the models
who wear those garments for the shoot.[9]
*Time 9.TIME AND ACTION PLAN:The critical path or TNA is a proper collaboration of Time
and action. In a Textile industry, to execute an export order, need to regular evaluation of produc-
tion activates with the help of times. This regular evaluation is called Critical Path Method or
Time and action plan or calendar. This is also known as TNA. By this evaluation, a merchandiser
can easily know the present situation of the order. In the case of export order, we all know that,
buyer mention lead time with order sheet. According to this lead time, a merchandiser make Crit-
ical path. This method helps to make sure an order delivery within lead time.[9]
 UNIT 2
ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

DEPARTMENTS IN GOKALDAS
1.Designing department
2.Merchandising department
3.Planning department
4.Sampling department
5.Quality department
6. Production department
(a)Cutting section
(b)Moulding section
(c)Stitching section
(d)Packing section
7.Tech team
8.IE team
9.Accounts department
10.Marketing department
11.Raw Material store
12.Warehouse

1.DESIGNING DEPARTMENT

The design department can be considered as the research and development department of a
clothing factory, because it is in this department that the prototypes of garments are developed
and prepared for selling and production. For most factories the process of product development
involves seven stages. [10]
1. Forecasting

Fashion forecasting is information that offers effective and highly accurate trend predictions
the fashion, style and related industries. Fashion intelligence and industry experience shape the
reports which are creative, inspiring and highly focused on various product. This provides analy
sis of current and future fashion trends and a very comprehensive coverage of Colour & trend
direction, 18 months in advance of the season followed by design reports for each trend,
12 months ahead. [10]

2. Designing
The designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, while others
drape fabric on a dress form and some others use computerised design system. These sys-
tems are becoming widely used and provide the designer with a highly versatile and flexi-
ble tool for creating new designs in the shortest time. The designer with the help of fore-
casting trends of style, colour and fabrics develops the illustrations/sketches for haute
couture or readymade or mass market. [10]

3. Collection planning
This process is in effect the pre production phase of sampling and the objectives are to set
out in detail the styles, fabrics and colors which will represent the company’s proposals
for the forth-coming season. The designer works in close co–operation with the marketing
department and tighter they attempt to determine the best possible style, fabric and price
combinations. Using the sketches of core collection, various alternatives and approaches
will be examined:
• Developing the variations from the core designs,
• Trying the same cloth on a number of different designs,
• Modifying some of the ideas to make garments more acceptable to a wider range
of customers,
• Addition of ‘fill-in’ type garments for which there may be a steady demand
throughout the season.
• Inclusion of garments which some of the larger buyers have indicated an interest.
• Balancing the contents of the collection so that it contains the optimum style and
price combinations. [10]

4. Pattern Making
Pattern making may be done manually by a trained patter maker with a paper and measur-
ing tools or by using an auto CAD or by draping fabric directly onto the dress form. The
resulting pattern pieces are used to construct the garment in required size. Various shapes
and sizes of pattern pieces can be produced for various styles of garments. [10]

5. Technology
Technological innovations in the garment industry have been tremendous. Each and every
department of the apparel industry has the scope of highly efficient machines. Use of so-
phisticated and advance ,machine improves the quality of the product and maximizes the
profits of the company. [10]
6. Production of sample garments
Sampling unit within the industry makes sample garments supervised by the pattern mak-
er or the designer. Sampling is a continual process during the development of new prod-
uct. A sample needs to conform to the design, fabric and color trends along with the per-
fect fit analysis. Cost of each sample must be accurately calculated in order to determine
the cost price and then the selling price. [10]

7. Pattern Grading
Pattern sizing and grading done on computer or manually is link between pattern design
and generation and preparatory stages of cutting in different sizes. It is the process where
patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern. [10]

2.MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

• Merchandiser is the interface between Buyer & Exporter. He is the responsible from order
analysis to shipment. So Merchandising is the very valuable department in the Apparel
Industry.This Article explains the main responsibilities of merchandisers.
• Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments.
Sometimes, merchandising department will have to do costing and pricing also. In any case,
the merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to execute the orders perfectly as per the
costing and pricing. So it is a very valuable department.[11]
Following are the responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to them:
▪ Internal & external communication,
▪ Making of trim cards
▪ Sampling,
▪ Lab dips,
▪ Accessories and trims
▪ Preparing internal order sheets,
▪ Preparing purchase orders,
▪ Advising and assisting production,
▪ Advising quality department about quality level,
▪ Mediating production and quality departments,
▪ Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
▪ Helping documentation department,
▪ Taking responsibility for inspections and
▪ Following shipment.
▪ Checking stocks
• Merchandising department is the department which mediates marketing production depart-
ments.
• A merchandiser’s key responsibility is as follows:
• Product development
• Market and product analysis
• Selling the concept
• Booking orders
• confirming deliveries[11]

• Events performed by a merchandiser are:

• Sourcing of buyer(hosting webpage, preparing profile, visiting buying house etc)
• Receive order sheet.
• Discuss with planning department for availability of production space.
• Discuss with prod Dir/GM for capability of handling such order and productivity
• The product package:
·Name of buyer
·Season
·Designed by and creation date.
·Any revision with date
·Size range for which the garments will be made.
·Order quantity
 ·Delivery date
·Size and colour break down.
·Packing ratio

• Qualities of merchandiser:
• Planning capability: Merchandiser must be competent enough to plan the ac-
tivities based on the order that is to be followed. Otherwise, it will directly af-
fect the delivery time of the order.
• Decision making: It is a very important quality required for the merchandiser
to deliver the product on time to buyers.
• Communication skills: Oral as well as written communication are important to
endorse the business activity as well as to have a good relationship with the
buyers.
• Loyalty: It is a crucial character of human beings, particularly for business per-
sons.
• Technical knowledge about the field: The merchandiser must have ample
knowledge about the garment production activities, and technical knowledge
to communicate with different levels of persons in the apparel industry.
• Coordinate and cooperate: The merchandiser is the person who coordinates
with the various departments in an apparel industry to get the job done.
• Monitoring ability: He or she must supervise the various activities in different
departments to speed up the orders to dispatch it on time to the buyers.[11]

Function of garment merchandisers:

1. Development of new garment styles and samples and execution of the same
2. Garment costing based on the order
3. Arrangement of raw materials, accessories and trims for execution of an order
4. Production scheduling
5. Approval of patterns and various samples
6. Follow up of preproduction activities
7. Coordinating with inspection agencies
8. Production controlling
9. Identification of bottlenecks in the process and materials and resolve the same
10. Monitoring of in-house production activities as well as follow-up of subcon-
tract work given outside
11. Reporting the progress of orders to the buyer as well as top management
12. Maintenance of proper records for individual garment styles
 13. Ensuring constant production rate by taking preventive as well as corrective
actions
14. Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about
merchandising[11]

Merchandising Workflow:
The work activities of a merchandiser will include the following:
• Examining the buyer requirement, understanding and communicating them to
the specific departments and exhibiting the product to the buyers they need.
• Confirming the quality during production as well as ensuring timely delivery
of an order.
• Developing a time and action (TNA) calendar for completing the schedules of
various activities like cutting, sewing, finishing, dispatch etc. The WIP (work
in progress) and the status of the order have to be monitored by the merchan-
disers regularly.
• Coordinating and tracking the sourcing activities and confirming that all the
raw materials and accessories are delivered on time.
• Follow-up of post shipment activities to keep a long-term relationship with the
buyer.
• Accompanying the buyers on visits to manufacturers to understand production
processes.
• Meeting with suppliers for negotiating the cost and handling of stocks.
• Ascertaining the difficulties related to production and supply of an order and
dealing with it when they occur.
• A preproduction meeting (PPM) is held among staff in the garment industry to
discuss the style, trims, construction etc. if there are further clarifications, an
external PPM is held with the QC, merchandiser, and buyer. [11]

3.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
• Production planning and control (PPC) is one of the most important departments in the apparel
industry. It plays an important role in apparel export business. [12]
• It helps to build-up strong relationship with the other departments to obtain maximum output
from the export order. Besides, production planning and control department of clothing indus-
try is also responsible for the timely shipment. [12]
• There are different types of work like as task scheduling, material resource planning (invento-
ry), loading production, process selection and planning, select location, estimating quantity
and production cost, capacity planning, line planning, follow up and execution etc are done by
production planning and control department. [12]

• The main objective of planning in apparel industry is to align material availability, planned Cut
date (Cutting start date) and required delivery.
• A planner basically receives an order confirmation from a merchandiser, takes the expected
fabric & trims In-house date from the sourcing team and allocates that style to a sewing line
such that the planned cut date is comfortably positioned after all the material is in-house & the
production ends before the scheduled delivery .

• Planning is one of the most important departments in the apparel industry.It plays an impor-
tant role in apparel export business.

• It helps to build-up strong relationship with the other departments to obtain maximum output
from the export order. Besides, planning department of clothing industry is also responsible
for the timely shipment.
• There are different types of work like as task scheduling, material resource planning (invento-
ry), loading production, process selection and planning, select location, estimating quantity
and production cost, capacity planning, line planning, follow up and execution etc are done by
production planning and control department. [12]
• The basic planning process in apparel manufacture includes:
• Receiving the order.
• Proper planning to check if there is sufficient plant capacity is available to achieve
the delivery date specified.
• Checking availability of cut parts and panels in the non sewing areas (cut embroidery if
any, print, wash, and pack).
• Checking if there is ample time to order and receive fabric, trims, approve sample,
lab testing, etc.
• Confirmation of the delivery date to the customer.
• Proper communication between departments for smooth flow of the process.
• Monitoring progress against plan.
• Replan if required. [12]

• The tools that must be set up for an efficient production planning and control in apparel indus-
try :

1. Order Information system

2. Loading plan template
3. Material availability information system
4. Production numbers

1. Information system:
• As mentioned earlier we know that to get a planned cut date we need to know when the fabric
is arriving for a style, therefore a system should be in place where the fabric team commits the
in-house date and this information should be available to planner on the go. [12]

• Any automated system in which merchandisers update the new order and fabric team update
the committed fabric in-house date would do the job.Microsoft excel and google sheets allows
multiple users to work on a single sheet and this can be used as a useful tool to get this updates
from all at once.If this information system is absent planner will have to spend a lot of time in
getting this information and there’s basically no time left for production planning or analysis or
corrective actions. [12]

• Right now we are not bothered about whether the committed dates needs improvement or not.
We will come to that conclusion later when we will make the loading plan. Ideally the fabric
team should commit the best and shortest lead time possible [12]

2. Loading plan template :

• Loading plan template is an excel based or other software based template where a planner will
load an order, fix the PCD(Planned Cut Date) based on fabric IH, required delivery date and
planning factors which affects productivity.

• If a good loading plan template or software is in place half of the planning process is already
streamlined. Loading plan is the most important tool which needs to be set to best level.

• The objective of the loading plan is to get the best Planned Cut date (PCD) which doesn’t
change too often & maintain loading such that productivity and efficiency is achieved.

• Making a good loading plan is an important parameter and even if it requires investing in some
software or technology factories should not shy away from it. [12]

There are two checks that the loading plan should plan highlight

1. Fabric committed In-house date to PCD ( Planned Cut Date) lead time is not less
than required.

2. PCD to Required del date is not less than required.

If any excel or software is able to highlight these things while positioning an order the planner
can re-position the order. If the loading plan is made without checking these criteria it is 100%
sure that PCD and delivery On-time performance will be very less. [12]

3. Material availability:

• Plan is always a plan and changes are inevitable therefore there should be a system in place
which checks for material availability before some days of PCD. If material is available, okay,
if not the loading plan needs to be changed.

• ERP softwares are very good at giving the material status and they present good option for this
process. If ERP is not available smart excel sheets should be used for this. [12]

4.Production data:

• Making the loading plan & meeting the PCD is still not the end of problems for the planning
team. They need to get the daily production data such that if a sewing line has been unable to
produce as per the plan the available capacity can be updated in the loading plan.

• Generally factories does not amend the loading plan due to production backlog due to increased
complexity but this is one thing that shouldn’t be ignored if planning has to get closer to the
best. [12]
 4.SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sample is the prototype or model of the garment, upon what the buyer can decide on how and
whether to confirm the order or not.[13]

Sampling Process Flow Chart:

Brief Description of the Sampling Processes

1. Tech Pack Receiving: This is the first stage of the sampling processes. In this stage Tech Pack
or the Technical pack is received from the buyer, via merchandiser. Tech pack contains all the
specifications to produce a garment.

2. CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD. Sometimes pattern is
made manually, but CAD is more popular and easy, computer aided design (CAD) is the use of
computer Technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. The design of geometric models
for object shapes, in particular, is often called computer-aided geometric design (CAGD).Howev-
er CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of Technical and engi-
neering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also symbolic information such as mate-
rials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD
may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional ("21") space; or curves, surfaces, or
solids in three-dimensional ("3D") objects. Viyellatex pattern section uses Optitex CAD software
for pattern making.[7]
3. Sample Making: Sample making is the ultimate goal of this department. After making the pat-
tern, the sample is made by using the pattern set.

4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the Tech Pack. If there is any
fault, the sample is redone. [7]

5. pre production sample: After the buyer has inspected the sample, a preproduction meeting is
called. In this meeting buyer or his agent, merchandiser, sample manager, all remain present.
They decide on how to and when to start the production. If the decision Okayed, the sample is
ready to go for final production. [7]

6. Grading of Sample: After finalising the sample. Grading is done. There may be several grades
of a single design. The grading is done to separate the samples and patterns from each others

7. Marker: After grading the samples. The design is inputted into the marker software. This soft-
ware specifies how to set the pattern in the actual fabric. By using the marker software efficiently,
fabric can be saved. Viyellatex uses Gerber Garment Technology (GGT) for marker making.[7]

8. Cutting: After making the marker the pattern is delivered to the cutting unit and the fabric is
cut for final production.

Sample Procedure:

There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, they are as follows: Sourcing
the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment
↓
Cutting (For Sample Only)
↓
Embellishment
↓
Sewing
↓
Iron
↓
Quality Control
↓
Pre check Form
↓
Buyer QC
↓
 Forwarding from the Merchandiser
↓
Sending Sample to the Buyer

• Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the approval of future orders
from buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or export company.
• Sampling is one of key elements of the pre-production processes in a garment industry. Before
a manufacturer produces bulk orders, a prior sampling of styles is done to get approvals and
jumpstart the fabrication of garments.[7]
• Sampling indent is given to the sampling department to initiate the sampling process.Sampling
is not just for buyers, but the manufacturers can also derive estimates of yarn consumption for
development of fabric, dyeing, printing, and stitching cost for a particular style or pattern giv-
en by the buyer.[7]
• Companies can have a separate sampling department or a merchandiser, who works closely
with the sampling section to source raw materials, and processes for developing a quality
product for an affordable price.[7]
• Sampling includes details like a product/style code or a reference number, color specifica-
tions, kind of fabric, composition, description, quantity, and details of embroidery, buttons,
zippers, or any other sort of accessories used. Hence it can be said that samples of garments
work as a bridge between buyers and the producers.[7]
• There are many people who are involved directly and indirectly in the process of sampling.
Designers, buyers, individuals engaged in sourcing and purchasing, production team, quality
control personnel, and the costing department at different levels work closely on the sampling
of garments.There are various types of samples that are developed by manufacturers depend-
ing on the requirement of their respective buyers.[7]

5.QUALITY DEPARTMENT
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate quality stan-
dard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs
effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product real-
ly wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.[7]

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - per-
formance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be
defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.[7]

In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is
calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness,
surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality expectations for export
are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.[7]

Process flow chart of quality section:

Objectives:
1. To maximise the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first
time.
2. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice
in design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market.
Before or Pre-production Inspection
The following parameters & defects are checked prior to cutting.
1. Shade Matching
2. Fabric Construction
3. GSM (grams per square metre)
4. Whales & courses if required)
5. Diameter
6. Dyeing Levelness
7. Ecological parameters if required
8. Softness
9. Shrinkage
10. Matching of Rib, Collars & Cuffs
11. Fabric Holes
12. Vertical & Horizontal Stripes
13. Knitting defects such as missing loops, sinker lines, etc.
14. Bowing
15. Skewing
16. Yarn defects such as thick & thin places
17. Dirts & Stains
During Production Inspection
1. Verify cutting patterns
2. Cut components measurements
3. Cutting shapes
4. Fabric defects
 5. Other specific parameters as required by the customers Rib, Collars & Cuffs matching
6. Stitching defects
7. Sewing threads matching
8. Dirts & Stains
9. Measurements
10. Labels
11. Trims & Accessories
Before Production Inspection
Many of the important parameters of Pre-productions, During productions & Final inspection pa-
rameters. This is to ensure that wrong or major defective garments are not packed.

Final inspection

A. PACKING & ASSORTMENT

1. Wrong Model
2. Wrong Quantity
3. Missing labels & tags
4. Wrong Size & Colour assortment
5. Wrong Folding
B. FABRIC DEFECTS
1. Wrong Shade
2. Uneven dyeing
3. Holes
4. Knitting stripes
5. Thick & Thin places
6. Dirt & Stains
7. Oil stains
8. Sinker line
9. Poor softness
10. Higher Shrinkage
11. Crease Marks
C. WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS
1. Open seam
2. Puckering
3. Needle holes & marks
4. Unbalanced sleeve edge
5. Unbalanced placket
 6. Insecure shoulder stitch
7. Incorrect side shape
8. Bottom hem bowing
9. Uneven neck shape
10. Cross labels
11. Broken & Missing stitch
12. Insecured buttons
13. Untrimmed threads & fabrics
14. Poor Ironing
15. Double stitch
D. GENERAL DEFECTS
1. Shade variation within the garment parts
2. Shade variation between the garments
3. Defective printing
4. Defective embroidery
5. Defective buttons
E. MEASUREMENT DEVIATIONS
Compare the garment measurements against the Customers' Measurement Charts.
Following are the some of the important garments' measurement aspects to be considered.
1. Garment length
2. Body width
3. Shoulder length
4. Arm hole
5. Arm Opening
6. Sleeve length
7. Placket length
8. Placket width
9. Neck width
10. Neck opening
11. Hemming width
12. IRib or Collar width

• Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect value
for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavour to produce work of
good quality.[7]
• "The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in
an organisation to maintain the requisite quality". As such Quality Control is seen as the agent
of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.[7]
• In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality
is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fast-
ness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality expectations
for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.
• Objectives:
• To maximise the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first
time.
• To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice
in design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market.
[7]

6.PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
The production department is responsible for converting inputs into outputs through the stages of
production processes. The Production Manager is responsible for making sure that raw materials
are provided and made into finished goods effectively. He or she must make sure that work is car
ried out smoothly, and must supervise procedures for making work more efficient and more en
joyable.[7]

(A)CUTTING DEPARTMENT:The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garm

ent panels precisely, consistent with the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a
necessary volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work. The process flow in the
cutting department is given below. [8]

Process flow chart in cutting section in garment industry:

Marker making
↓
Fabric spreading
↓
Placing marker paper on the lay
↓
100% inspection of parts and replacement of parts if needed
↓
Numbering
↓
Fabric cutting
↓
Sorting and bundling
↓
Input to sewing department
(B)MOULDING UNIT: Fabrics that have to be moulded are moulded into desired sizes in this
unit using moulding machines.These moulding machines use heat and pressure technique to keep
the fabric in shape.
Used majorly for shaping the Bras according to the required sizes.Then the pieces are bundled
and sent to the next unit. [8]

(C)STITCHING UNIT:Sewing is the process of fastening or attaching two parts of fabric using
stitches made with a needle and thread. It is one of the basic steps of apparel manufacturing
process. Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry.
[8]

Working Procedure of Sewing Department

Garment analysis
↓
Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)
↓
Machine lay out
↓
Operator lay out
↓
Quality control of product
↓

↓
Line setup
↓
Process distribution
↓
Parts received from cutting dept.
↓
Parts storing
↓
Parts distribution to the operator and helper
↓
Position mark to components where required
↓
Parts making (individual)
↓
Inline quality checking
↓
Parts assembling
 ↓
Inline quality audit
↓
Output counting & checked with the target
↓
End line quality audit

(D)PACKING UNIT:Garment packaging is the process of wrapping, compressing, filling or cre-

ating of goods for the purpose of protection and their appropriate handling. This is the final
process in the production of garments which prepares the finished merchandise for delivery to the
customer. It is an important part of the garment manufacturing process. Garment packaging is
also use to get lot of attention from the customer. These operations come under the materials han-
dling methods and are no less important than other systems used in the factory. After completing
the entire manufacturing task, apparel is required to be packed. After packing, it is placed in car-
tons as per instructions and then it is stored in a store section before it is delivered to the respec-
tive buyer. [8]

7.TECH TEAM
They are involved in choosing an appropriate fabric and design so the garment can be produced
within budget. They work with Pattern Graders to oversee the sizing, fitting and testing of the
pre-production garments.[13]

Key areas of responsibility:

• Measuring, assessing and fitting samples prior to fit sessions.

• Managing Customer fit sessions to ensure accuracy of information and product.
• Internally fit product for all self-approving Customers and reporting back to the depart-
ment Garment Technologist.
• Providing clear instructions to off shore factories with amendment images/drawings.
• Managing test reports and working with factories to improve standards. Approving fabric
testing and care labels.
• Managing product development in line with Client’s critical path- monitoring and updat-
ing product status.
• Handling risk assessment of all new orders and raising
• issues with the sales/ production team.
• Checking fabrics and trims on Production Samples to ensure they are within approved
quality and appearance.
• Organizing weekly production meetings with Production Manager.
• Having overall responsibility for the development of garments from order through to
 • production ensuring they perform to customer spec and quality.[13]

8.IE TEAM

1. Introduction: Role of the Industrial Engineering and Operations Management functions is

crucial in improvement of factory performance. Involvement of Industrial Engineer starts at
the sampling stage where he would be involved in product analysis. This analysis is carried
out to ensure that the sample sent for approval is most suited for production. This department
forms the backbone of the entire factory operations by setting production targets and defining
the methods that need to be followed on the shop floor.[14]

2. Methodology In order to maximize the overall efficiency of the manufacturing functions it re-
quires to perform some key tasks which may be summarized as follows: Key Tasks
• Product Analysis: o Determining optimum method of construction to achieve required finished
product efficiently o Establish operation bulletin
• Product Costing: Determine the standard minute “cost” of each operation specifying the
equipment type and work aids to be used
• Production Planning: Provide a line plan for effective, balanced flow of the product, incorporat-
ing line and individual (operation) productivity standards
• Operator Performance: Develop operator performance monitoring systems by the means of
hourly production monitoring, gum-sheet and skill matrix etc.
• Off-standards: Analyze different factors of increasing off-standards in the factory and imple-
ment methods to reduce it
• Performance Development: Apply industrial engineering techniques to develop the perfor-
mance of teams and individuals
• Method Engineering - Develop detailed man and material movement methods. Document all
methods using manual, computer based or video/visual systems as appropriate. Justify all
changes based on analysis of the work content in the operation, taking account of the skill re-
quirements
• Maintenance: Ensure that production methods, production equipment and workplaces, work-
study data and time standards are effectively and rigorously maintained
• Continuous Improvement: o Constantly review production methods to identify and take cost
saving opportunities o Constantly monitor operator performances against time standards and
targets and take action to improve performances and eliminate causes of under performance[14]

• The role of Industrial Engineering Department (IED) is very crucial in improvement of factory
performance. The involvement of Industrial Engineers (IE) starts from sampling stage through
product analysis to ensure the sample sent for approval is most suited for bulk production.
• The IED forms the backbone of the entire factory operations by setting production targets and
defining methods that need to be followed in the shop floor. The responsibility of IED is to
maximize overall efficiency of the manufacturing functions through provision of an effective,
appropriate and timely work study and Industrial Engineering service and maintenance of an
ideal production environment.
• The key tasks includes product analysis through determining optimum method of construction
and establishing Operation Bulletin (OB); product costing by determining standard minute cost
of each operation specifying the equipment type and work aids used; production planning for
effective and balanced flow of product; operator performance monitoring systems by hourly
production monitoring and skill matrix; off standards of different functions and implement
methods to reduce; method; justify all changes based on analysis of work content; continuous
improvement; taking cost saving opportunities; monit or operator performances and take action
to improve performances and eliminate causes of underperformance.
• They Monitor production floor and have better control over the production floor, they check
on Improving processes and improving method of working to increase the factory's overall
performance and standardised garment manufacturing processes.
• They Analyse the CMT and Productivity details for all new development styles based on gar-
ment sketch or samples and provide CMT to merchandising department.
• After order confirmation the evaluated garment is reanalysed for better and economical meth-
ods to reduce the negotiated CMT in order to stay in safe margin. It means reduction of SMV
by construction simplification related to seam and method without affecting the actual appear-
ance of sample.Thread consumption is also checked.[14]
 9.ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT:
• An accounting department provides accounting services and financial support to the organiza-
tion it belongs to. The department records accounts payable and receivable, inventory, payroll,
fixed assets and all other financial elements.
• The department's accountants review the records of each department to determine the compa-
ny's financial position and any changes required to run the organization cost-effectively.[15]

Purpose of an Accounting Department

• An accounting department is a dedicated team of specialists who manage the finances of an or-
ganization. While not every member of the team will be a certified public accountant, team
members will generally have training in bookkeeping processes and procedures.

• By developing an accounting department, a company can help ensure full transparency in its
financial transactions, while also providing specialized, centralized support to other teams and
managers. Quality financial management can help ensure the ongoing health of a business.[15]

• Apparel industry accountants work with external auditors and internal CPAs to ensure timely
and accurate tax filing, profit reporting, payroll reviews and cost accounting.
• They may establish and maintain accounting policies and documentation procedures across
the organisation.[15]
• The accounting department is responsible for recording and reporting the cash flows, both in
and out, of a company. There are five basic roles or functions within the department:
• Accounts receivable
• Accounts payable
• Payroll
• Financial controls
• Financial reporting[15]

10.MARKETING DEPARTMENT

• The Marketing Department plays a vital role in promoting the business and mission of an orga-
nization. It serves as the face of your company, coordinating and producing all materials repre-
senting the business. It is the Marketing Department's job to reach out to prospects, customers,
investors and/or the community, while creating an overarching image that represents your com-
pany in a positive light.Depending on your company, the duties of the Marketing Department
may include one or more of the following: [16]

• Defining and managing your brand. This involves defining who you are, what you stand for,
what you say about yourself, what you do and how your company acts. This, in turn,
 defines the experience you want your customers and partners to have when they inter-
act with you.
• Conducting campaign management for marketing initiatives. Marketing proactively identifies
the products and services to focus on over the course of your sales cycle, and then pro-
duces materials and communications that get the word out.
• Producing marketing and promotional materials. Your marketing department should create the
materials that describe and promote your core products and/or services. They should be
kept up-to-date as those products and services evolve.
• Creating content providing search engine optimization for your website. Your website is often
the first (and possibly the only) place people go for information about you. Your mar-
keting department will be responsible for keeping Web content current, while also
working to ensure your site comes up quickly when someone searches for your type of
business.
• Monitoring and managing social media. Marketing should contribute to, manage and maintain
your social media pages. It should also manage accounts and carefully watch what’s
being posted about you online.
• Producing internal communications. Your employees need to understand your company, its
values, its goals and its priorities. Marketing is often responsible for employee com-
munications through a newsletter and/or intranet.
• Serving as media liaison. When your company is cited in the media, a member of the market-
ing department often acts as spokesperson for your company, or guides executives in
how to respond to media queries.
• Conducting customer and market research. Research helps you define target markets and op-
portunities and helps you understand how your products and services are perceived.
• Overseeing outside vendors and agencies. Marketing is typically responsible for selecting and
managing the agencies and vendors who produce marketing materials and or/provide
marketing support. These may include ad agencies, print vendors, PR agencies or spe-
cialists, Web providers, etc.

• Marketing terms are responsible for promoting product or services from business-to-business
in the case of suppliers, from business-to-consumers within retailers and combination of both
when working for fashion brands.
• Marketing positions within fashion and textiles can be based in-house or a company can enjoy
a marketing agency to cover this area. [16]

11.RAW MATERIAL STORE

• The fabric and accessories stores department is centralised in apparel industry and all the fab-
ric and accessories comes to this unit first from the supplier and audited here and kept until it
is distributed to other units. [7]
• For an export oriented and bulk production and garment industry. it is essential to maintain a
well-organised & well equipped inventory system.
• The main responsibility of this department is to store all the raw material necessary to produce
garments. Store keeper follows a strong and appropriate working procedure. [7]

Fiber selection in garment manufacturing:

• Fabric requirements can be classified into four categories: aesthetic (handle, drape, lustre, etc.);
performance in use (easy-care, stretch, comfort, pilling tendency, abrasion resistance, etc.); im-
age and cost, which can be subdivided into the fiber or yarn cost and the finished fabric pro-
cessing cost. [7]
• All of these factors have an influence based on the type of garment and its market position or
price point. For example, a fabric to be used in a formal ladies’ suit for a highly regarded brand
house will have a high value placed on aesthetics and image, be less sensitive to performance in
use, and will be largely insensitive to cost. On the other hand, a department store’s own-brand
jeans will be worth highly with respect to its durability and a low cost more than its aesthetics
value and brand image. [7]
1.Yarns:
Yarns are the immediate strand elements used to make woven and knitted fabrics. A yarn is a
strand made from spun or twisted fibres or twisted filaments. Fibres are short lengths varying
from 1/2 to 20″. The length and diameter of a fibre depends on its natural type and source. [7]

2.Fabric:
Fabric is the basic raw material of the clothing industry. The quality of fabric not only influences
the quality of the garment but also affects the smoothness of the production process. The produc-
tion of garments from high-quality fabrics not only gives comfort to the wearer but also helps in
the smooth working of manufacturing processes and leads to defect-free garments. Specifications
for fabrics, and other raw materials used in apparel manufacturing, can be categorised into two
groups: properties of fabrics and fabric characteristics. A fabric property represents physical di-
mensions like yards, pounds, etc., whereas a fabric characteristic refers to the response of the fab-
ric when an external force is applied to it like elongation, elasticity, shrinkage, seam strength, etc.
These are measures of reactions to dynamic conditions. Characteristics are physical or chemical
changes in the fabric resulting from the application of outside forces. Stress and strain properties
are another term used to denote characteristics. There are three perspectives for specifying the
fabric requirements: [7]

3.Trims and accessories:

Though fabrics are the main raw material for garment manufacturing. For making the garments
aesthetic, functional and commercially required various types of trims and accessories are used.
Apparel is an ensemble of fabric and accessories. Without trims and accessories, the garment re-
mains incomplete. Swing thread is a must needed trimming which are significantly used in gar-
ments manufacturing. To make garments, sewing thread plays an important role in readymade
garments sector. Various kinds of accessories are used on garments; some are part of the garments
such as buttons, zippers, and interlining, while others are used for decorating and enhancing the
product appearance, such as sequins and embroidery. These accessories are considered as gar-
ment accessories as they form an integral part of the garment. Usually other than fabrics these
material used for making garments are called trims and accessories.[7]

12.WARE HOUSE
• A commercial building for storage of goods. Warehouses are used by manufacturers, im-
porters, exporters, wholesalers, transport businesses, customs, etc. [17]
• They are usually large plain buildings in industrial parks on the outskirts of cities, towns or
villages.Ready garments are packed and stored in warehouse until it is exported.[17]
Basic Functions of a Warehouse

Basic function of a warehouse are movement of goods storage of goods, and information man-
agement.

1. Storage of Goods: One of the traditional requirements of a warehouse has been for storing
goods. The warehouse provides the space required for such storage and it is one of the important
functions of a warehouse. [17]

Warehouse performs two types of storage: planned and extended.

Planned Storage:

Storage required as planned to meet the regular customer demand is called panned storage, Every
inventory in received in the warehouse requires storage for a certain period of time. The duration
of storage many vary.[17]

Extended Storage:

Extended storage is an inventory in excess of normal warehouse operation. Some of the

reasons for extended storage requirements are seasonality in demand, erratic demand, product
conditioning, speculative purchases, discounts, etc.

• To meet the erratic or seasonality in demand an additional storage of goods in terms of

safety stocks could be required.
• Some products such as food items may be stored for conditioning purposes. E.g. ripening
of fruits.
• Sometimes a firm may buy bulk quantities to avail of the discounts that are available or to
purchase when the price is low. This is speculative purchases as the goods are bought at a
higher quantity due to lower price or due to expectation of higher price in the future.
• Sometimes due to promotional campaigns such as sales promotion, additional stock may
be required to be kept to meet the expected higher demand for the product.[17]
2. Movement of Goods: Movement of goods consist of inbound activity (unloading of goods
brought to warehouse), transfer to storage (transferring the goods from the inbound area to the
storage area), order selecting (selecting the good in the storage as per order to be shipped and
transferring it to shipment area) and outbound activity (checking and loading the gods for ship-
ment). [17]

3. Information Management: Keeping a track of information regarding goods that have come
into the warehouse, stored and that are shipped out of the warehouse. Also any other information
pertaining to the warehouse is stored. The data captured by the information system in the ware-
house is then passed on to the higher management in order to take better decisions.[17]

Secondary Functions of a Warehouse

4. Protection of goods- A warehouse provides protection to goods from loss or damage due to
heat, dust, wind and moisture, etc. It makes special arrangements for different products according
to their nature. It cuts down losses due to spoilage and wastage during storage.[17]

5. Risk bearing – Warehouses take over the risks incidental to storage of goods. Once goods are
handed over to the warehouse-keeper for storage, the responsibility of, these goods passes on to
the warehouse-keeper. Thus, the risk of loss or damage to goods in storage is borne by the ware-
house keeper. Since it is bound to return the goods in good condition, the warehouse becomes
responsible for any loss, theft or damage etc., thus, it takes all precautions to prevent any mishap.
[17]

6. Financing- When goods are deposited in any Warehouse, the depositor gets a receipt, which
acts as a proof about the deposit of goods. The Warehouses can also issue a document in favour
of the owner of the goods, which is called warehouse-keeper’s warrant. This warrant is a docu-
ment of title and can be transferred by simple endorsement and delivery. So while the goods are
in custody of the warehouse-keeper, the businessmen can obtain loans from banks and other fi-
nancial institutions keeping this warrant as security. In some cases, warehouses also give ad-
vances of money to the depositors for a short period keeping their goods as security. [17]

7. Processing – Certain Commodities are not consumed in the form they are produced. Process-
ing is required to make them consumable. For example, paddy is polished, timber is seasoned,
and fruits are ripened, etc. Sometimes warehouses also undertake these activities on behalf of the
owners.[17]

8. Grading and branding- On request warehouses also perform the functions of grading and
branding of goods on behalf of the manufacturer, wholesaler or the importer of goods. It also
provides facilities for mixing, blending and packaging of goods for the convenience of handling
and sale[17]
 UNIT 3
ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT WHERE INTERNSHIP
WAS CARRIED OUT

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:

INTRODUCTION:
• Fashion merchandising is the combination of the processes that a new fashion item must go
through to be available in mass quantities to the consumer after it is left the hands of the de-
signer. Fashion merchandising often gets confused with fashion marketing and although they
work together, they are two very different things. To understand fashion merchandising com-
pletely, it is important to examine the role that fashion merchandising plays in manufacturing,
buying, promoting and selling fashion items. In regards to manufacturing, a fashion merchan-
diser will have significant input on the types of fabrics used to make a piece of clothing.
• Having a strong historical and socio-cultural understanding of the fabrics, help change a de-
signer‘s vision into reality. By applying their knowledge about fabric and clothing construction,
a fashion merchandiser will take a designer‘s piece and find the best way to manufacture the
item while taking things like price and target market into consideration. Buying becomes part
of fashion merchandising when a merchandiser buys fashion items to be presented in a store. A
fashion merchandiser must be aware of the target market for the fashion item and also very
well-versed in fashion trend analysis and forecasting. This allows for more accurate ordering.
• A fashion merchandiser working with a designer will once again offer expertise to the designer
on textiles and fabrics. In the event that a fashion merchandiser is working for the designer,
promoting the designer‘s product to stores that may want to buy large quantities is a number
one priority. Not only is a fashion merchandiser required to have a creative mind and strong
visual merchandising skills, production skills must be sharp as well. Fashion merchandising
promotes a designer‘s items through the use of fashion shows where creativity and visual ef-
fects must run wild to capture the attention of potential buyers. Additionally, fashion merchan-
disers seek out the target market for a designer‘s clothing, such as children‘s clothing stores,
department stores or discount retailers. The final component of fashion merchandising is sell-
ing.
• A fashion merchandiser that works with a designer is responsible for selling fashion items to
stores, who then sells to consumers. Again the merchandiser must have an idea about forecast-
ing and market trends so they may give their recommendation regarding production of the item.
Creativity is important, because a merchandiser must offer suggestions on how to display the
items within the store. When a fashion merchandiser works for a retail store, responsibilities
include buying and presenting fashion items within the store. [18]

MERCHANDISING:Merchandising is a specialised management functions within the fashion

industry. It is the business that moves the world fashion from designers showroom to retail sales
floor and in to the hands of consumers. It is the internal planning that takes place within a retail
organisation in order ensures adequate amount of merchandise are on hand to be sold at prices
that the consumers are willing to pay to ensure a profitable operation.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF A MERCHANDISER

• Plan and develop merchandising strategies that balance customers’ expectations and com-
pany’s objectives
• Analyse sales figures, customers reactions and market trends to anticipate product needs
and plan product ranges/stock
• Collaborate with buyers, suppliers, distributors and analysts to negotiate prices, quantities
and time-scales
• Maximise customer interest and sales levels by displaying products appropriately
• Produce layout plans for stores and maintain store shelves and inventory
• Forecast profits/sales and plan budgets
• Monitor stock movement and consider markdowns, promotions, price changes, clear outs
etc
 • Build constructive customer relationships and team with channel partners to build pipeline
and close deals
• Remain up to date with industry’s best practices[19]

1. RECEIVE PRODUCT PACKAGE FROM BUYER:

Some samples to be done by the manufacturer. Buyer visits the unit and when the meeting
starts the manufacturer has to show the samples developed by them. The buyer also
brings some styles along with him and asks the manufacturer to make the costing. If the
costing is approved by the buyer then they will place the order. All the details like the
picture, measurement chart and the type of trims required are provided at this time. From
this point on wards the sampling starts. [20]

2. SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attract-
ing buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied with
the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important stage of
fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the specification and
requirement by the buyer.[21]

Sampling process varies from buyer to buyer, and type of style as well, but in industry there is
particular order of sampling is followed, the stages and purpose of sample may be same but ter-
minology used may be different and it totally depend upon buyer. The typical samples namely
described as:
1. Design development
2. Proto sample
3. Fit sample
4. Ad or photo shoot sample
5. Sales man sample
6. Pre- production sample
7. GPT sample
8. Size set sample
9. TOP sample
10. Wash sample
11. Shipment sample

1. Design development:

▪ This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
▪ Design development is either done by buyer or factory
▪ The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not. [21]
2. Proto sample:

▪ Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the fac-
tory based on proto sample only.
▪ Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
▪ nThe factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get confirmation
from buyer.
▪ Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available.
▪ Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
▪ As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the proto sample
buyer need to provide necessary information along with the proto request. These are:
Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material, Development sample (optional), Paper
patterns (optional), Sample of novelty trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be send by
buyer or asked to develop), Details of Print or Embroidery, if any.
▪ Generally proto request is responded within the 7-10 days by merchandiser.
▪ Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer to buyer)
▪ If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd proto sample
to get approval.
▪ Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample. [21]
3. Fit sample
 ▪ Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dum-
my and for approval of construction details.
At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the construction
and quality details and standards The sample sent mostly in medium and large sizes mentioned by
the buyer.

▪ The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for
bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used. [21]
4. Ad or photo shoot sample:

▪ In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD sample for
photo shoot.
▪ Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like,
print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
▪ This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer. [21]
5. Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:

▪ The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
▪ In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be
used.
▪ This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this
sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
▪ The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence merchandiser
should aware and make sure that product development team is well aware about the sam-
ple quality parameters.
▪ The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer may give 150% of
FOB. [21]
6. Size set sample:

▪ The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory’s capability to make the sam-
ple in all sizes.
▪ The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
▪ The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as required by
the buyer.
▪ Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get approved.
▪ Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
▪ If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called jump size set
sample. [21]
7. GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):

▪ The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
▪ The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
▪ Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
 ▪ Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory
as well as buyer.
▪ If same style is having 3-4 different colours then only one color sample is tested com-
pletely and other colours samples are tested only with colour way test i.e. only colour
fastness tests are conducted. [21]
8. Pre- production sample: (PP sample)

▪ PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.

▪ It has to be made in original fabric and trims
▪ Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actuals.
▪ PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identi-
cal to PP sample.
▪ The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduc-
tion sample.
▪ PP sample sends in only one size 1-2 samples or specified by buyer. [21]
9. Wash sample:

▪ Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
after washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP
stage washing sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
▪ If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sam-
ple to get approval.
▪ After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program. [21]
10. TOP sample (Top of Production):

▪ The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
line with suggestion of QA department.
▪ In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
▪ Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
▪ TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging. [21]

11. Shipment sample:

▪ Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
▪ The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch. [21]

3.PRICE NEGOTIATION:

A successful buyer negotiation outcome does not mainly occur through luck but by
following a clear process. The process which reflects the various levels of knowl-
edge of the subject of negotiation. A garment merchandiser has to do a lot of task to
negotiate the buyer. This article has presented a details discussion on buyer negotia-
tion process which are deeply followed in readymade garments sector.[22]
Buyer Negotiation Process Followed by Garment Merchandiser:
1. Researching the needs of both parties:

The higher the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the apparel merchandiser’s requirements,
the better able they are to construct an acceptable solution. The buyer must be clear about both
the department mark-up to be placed on the product cost price and the intended retail selling price
so that he can judge the viability of the garment merchandiser’s products. He should also have
sufficient product construction knowledge to understand how changes can be made to achieve
better value in the product.

Frequently the garment merchandiser will make suggestions to try to bring the cost price closer to
the buyer’s target. However an experienced buyer can speed up the process by making sug-
gestions which will be acceptable to her. Lead time is another lever for buyer negotiation with
differing operational issues for both parties. If the buyer starts the sourcing process early enough
he may have enough time in hand to use extended lead time as a bargaining tool.

The process of researching needs does not stop once the buyer negotiation is underway s the body
language and facial expression of both parties will signal their reactions of the ongoing discus-
sion. Successful buyers will listen to and watch the garment merchandisers carefully and making
judgments about how to trade benefits with them. In addition to listening and observation skills,
buyers need to be able to use questions effectively. Open questions require a respondent to elabo-
rate which may provide the buyer will valuable knowledge on how to proceed when meeting
an apparel merchandiser. Closed questions can be used to generate specific responses. [22]

2.Preparation:

Effective preparation is also very important to successful communication which ultimately makes
easy to do buyer negotiation effectively. The particular preparation required will vary according
to the nature of meeting but some factors are always important. Meeting should begin on time
and follow a clear agenda with a realistic amount of time to accommodate the work. Where there
is an existing relationship with a garment merchandiser, a file containing the relevant notes and
documentation relating to the orders should be read prior to the meeting and taken in for refer-
ence.

Garment merchandisers meeting are usually held in uncluttered or empty rooms or offices to
avoid any distraction from the business of the meeting. It is also usual for there to be two people
from buying in the meeting so that buyer can have an objective view point available while per-
sonally involved in the buyer negotiation. [22]

3. Offer:

Having identified where the respective position lies between them. The buyer and garment mer-
chandiser can make specific proposals to set the boundaries of negotiation (buyer negotiation). It
is unlikely that many of the offers initially made will end up being accepted. So both parties al-
low for some manoeuvre. This is the opportunity for the buyer to being trading what is of rela-
tively low value for him but of more value to the apparel merchandiser. [22]

4. Discussion:

The likely framework of a final settlement will emerge in the discussion as each side probes the
other ad makes suggestions. Answer to the suggestions can be revealing with choice of words and
tone signalling interest of reluctance and should be noted as potential bargaining material. There
will be areas on which one side can move more than the other and vice versa. It is important for
the buyer to make a note of which ones provide the greatest and least opportunities for flexibly
the trade- off later in the buyer negotiation. [22]

5. Counter and revised offers:

This is the real bargaining where elements of the order such as numbers of units, product details,
lead time and so on are being decided in the context of an overall cost price. The buyer should
make firm proposals and be cautious of offering concessions unless she is getting one in return.
The final element that will pull all of the other variables together will be the cost price which is
agreed at the end. Although the bargaining may be tough, the spirit of the communication should
be remaining friendly and not adversarial. Parities are more likely to co-operate if they are being
treated fairly and responsibility. [22]

6. Summaries:

It is vital to summaries at key stages through the buyer negotiation when significant points are
agreed to avoid losing early gains as to ensure that both parties understand each other. With so
many potential variables included can be easily forgotten unless there is a record of agreement
through. Records will also provide both sides with an explanation of how the deal was construct-
ed should a particular variable become contentious at a later date. [22]

7. Agree and commit:

It is very important to make an effective buyer negotiation job. Once the parties have agreed an
order, they have to communicate the details to other functions. The garment merchandiser may
need to book production space, order fabric or trimmings and source labels. The buyer will need
to inform the apparel merchandiser of the retail selling value of the order so that a track can be
kept on spending. [22]

4.ORDER CONFIRMATION AND PURCHASE ORDER SHEET:

An ORDER CONFIRMATION is a written confirmation of an order which is sent by the produc-
ing or service rendering company that accepts the order placed by a purchasing customer. It
serves as a tool to avoid confusion and mistakes in case the the order does not conform to the
original offer.[23]

PURCHASE ORDER SHEET is simply known as PO sheet. Purchase order sheet of garments
manufacturing (PO sheet) is commonly used important document for Garments Manufacturing.
Basically purchase order sheet contains the information of confirmation of buyer order. To clarify
some important manufacturing and technical issues buyer has to provide PO Sheet. In a PO sheet
there may have information of product style, PO number, fabric cost, trims cost, garments unit
cost, order quantity, shipment date, shipment destination and many others important things.
Purchase Order (PO) sheet is necessary for every department of Apparel Industry. Without PO
sheet you will not be able to know about your shipment date, shipping destination, over ship or
under ship tolerance, payment term. That’s why this document (PO sheet) is such an important.
[23]

A list of basic information which may include in PO Sheet.

1. PO Number
2. Style/Lot Number
3. Order Quantity
4. Shipment Date
5. Unit Cost
6. Total Cost of that PO
7. Factory Name
8. Vendor Name
9. Shipping Address
10. Overseas Port reach Date
11. Sourcing Agent
12. Shipment Terms
13. LC Number
14. Fabric Supplier Name and Code
15. Fabric Content
16. EXIT COUNTRY PORT
17. Trims and Accessories cost
18. Product Category
19. Season
20. Description
21. Goods Description
22. Size wise Order Quantity
23. Transaction Policy
24. Payment Terms
25. Necessary Instruction
26. Terms and Conditions
27. Overship Tolerance
28. Undership Tolerance
5.SOURCING

For garment export house fabric and trims are the raw material which needs to be outsourced.
Sourcing is basically determining the most cost efficient vendor of materials, production, or fin-
ished goods at the specified quality and service level. It is closely associated and an important
part of apparel merchandiser’s responsibility. Materials basically include piece goods that will be
cut and converted into the garments. Not only does the fabric have to be appropriate and suited to
the garment design and end use but it must also be made available at the precise time when it is
needed. Thus, lead times play an important role in the sourcing and placing orders for the materi-
als required for the production. Lead times required from a supplier can vary from as little as two
weeks to as much as nine months. Trims are all the materials other than the piece goods that are
required to make up a garment. Findings require the same careful planning as the piece goods. As
soon as the fabric is in the stores, then only the sourcing of the threads start because the colour of
the thread must match the buyer’s requirements. The ordering of the threads must be complete by
the time fabric is cut ready to be fed to the sewing line[21]

Types of sourcing:
Local manufacturer-Fabric is manufactured locally, with local infrastructure.
Traditional export-Local fabric is exported to garment manufacturing countries.
International sourcing-Fabric is made locally, but raw i.e. yarn or fibre is sourced from other
country.
Global sourcing-Fabrics are made with parts sourced from abroad as part of global sourcing strat-
egy.
Off-shoring-Raw material is exported first i.e. yarn or fibre, then fabric is reimported to meet the
demand
Global manufacturing-Fabric is manufactured in other country.[21]

6.MATERIAL COLLECTION AND RECEIVING IT IN FACTORY:

Fabric, sewing threads, buttons, trims, etc are the raw material in garments industry. The quality
of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most
outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. So before pro-
duction of garments quality check of raw material is very important task in garment industry.[7]
FABRIC INSPECTION:

1. Fabric inspection is done in a suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and
proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to the inspector
and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing
area. The backlight can be used as and when needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to
inspection.
6. The approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between center and selvage
and the beginning, middle, and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against the standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection
11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier
ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for an additional
replacement to avoid a shortage.
 12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done
from the beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.[7]

TRIMS INSPECTION:

Quality of Trims and Accessories quality is very important for garments because of its added val-
ue with the final product. Trims and Accessories Inspection in apparel is required to ensure the
use of right quality trims and accessories for getting quality garments, although Trims and Acces-
sories are supplied by the third party/buyer nominated supplier. Basically, garments maker check
trims quality after receiving. If there is any quality issue, then they can claim for compensation
within a certain date of Trims and Accessories in-house. If GMTS maker fails to identify defects
in their inspection process, then they must have to carry liability. So Trims and accessories quali-
ty plays a vital role in the apparel industry.[7]

Explanation of Trims and Accessories Defects

1. Print Mistake: Any problem showing for incorrect printing. Example: color bleeding
2. Color Problem: Used different color/shade, not match with approved trims color
3. Code Mistake: Barcode or any types of code mistake
4. Fitness Problem: Not found as per ordered length and width.
5. Print Spot: Any spot only for printing
6. Measurement Problem: Any types of measurement do not match with an approved swatch
7. Size Mistake: When everything okay but mentioned size not correct
8. Gum nil: If there needed gum but not found in the inspection
9. Running Color: Different types of color in trims when one color is approved
10. PO Mistake: When everything is okay but mentioned PO number not correct
11. Style Mistake: When everything is okay but mentioned style not correct
12. Letter Mistake: Used capital letter instead of small or small letter instead of capital.
13. Spot: Any type of spot is to be considered as a defect
14. Broken: Trims and accessories broken is a critical defect.
15. Logo Mistake: Any problem in logo design and color.

Its important to receive the right material in the right quality and in the right quantity as well, and
then storage in the proper condition.So after the quality inspections are performed, the required
fabrics and trims are collected in bulk and stored in the raw material store and are used for the
production.[7]

7.CHECK AND LISTING

The fabrics and trims that are received in bulk from the manufacturer are checked and listed once
it is arrived to the raw material store.

8.SWATCH CARD , TRIM CARD MAKING AND APPROVAL

• Swatch cards are the most common way of presenting material samples. Designers and con-
sumers prefer to use swatch cards to get a quick, convenient overview of what’s available in
your materials catalog.

• A trim card is used to show approved trims by attaching all garment trims and accessories on
the trim card. In the production floor, supervisors used to follow the trim card as a guide for
identifying the right trims.The trim card is made of white paper which is little thicker than the
normal A4 printing paper. The company name, company logo, and company address are print-
ed on the top. The size of the trim card normally kept higher than A4 size paper. Sometimes A4
size is also used for trim cards. [23]
• The trim card and the swatch card are referred to the same card. When a fabric swatch is at-
tached to the card it is also called as swatch card. When trims are attached the same card is
called as the trim card.

• Swatch card and the trim card is sent to buyers as well as to suppliers with the fabric swatch or
other items or trim card can be used for internal use.

• In a garment export house merchandisers are supposed to make the trim card for the order they
are handing over to the production team. They can get it done by store room assistants or by
their assistants. [23]

• The trim card is one of the very important components of the production file. Garment produc-
tion team needs the guideline for making the garments and reference of right thread size, label,
and other trims to be added to the garment with correct specification. In the trim card, they get
approved items.

• The approved trim card is also displayed on the production board in the stitching line.Store
room follows the approved trim card to verify trims and fabrics quality that they issue against
an order.

• Quality inspectors need the approved trim card at the time of garment checking and shipment
inspection. Merchandiser prepares one copy of the trim card for quality inspector's file. Quality
controllers need to follow reference of approved item whether it is a fabric shade, button color
and button size, care label text. [23]

How to prepare the trim card:

1. Make a list of trims to be attached to the garments. Like stitching threads, button, zippers,
twill tapes, laces, labels etc.
2. Take approval of all these trims from buyers or the concerned person.
3. Take 2-3 trims for all items from store depending on the number of copies you want to
make.
4. Take one trim card and write style name and order number on the top of the card.
5. Attach trims on the card by staple pins or affix the item by adhesive tape. In case, you
can't place all trims on a single card, you can use an additional card for making your trim
card.
6. Write the name of each item with the article number (item code number). You can also
mention garment location where to attach that particular trim.
7. Cross check the trim with the approved one and sign on the trim. You can cross sign on all
items. Make sure signed items can not be replaced easily.
8. Your trim card is ready. Use the trim card as required. [23]
TRIM APPROVALS FROM BUYER: As a standard procedure, approval of all trims and acces-
sory items are taken from the buyer prior to use in bulk production. To submit the sample of the
bulk trims and bulk fabric swatches to buyers, and buying house trim card is use. A
merchandiser uses the trim card to send the reference fabric or trim for the sample development
to the suppliers. [23]

9.PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

• As the name suggests, a PPM is a meeting held prior to production and after sampling, i.e. af-
ter the pre-production sample is approved. It is also called an “Order Clarity Meeting”. Nor-
mally Pre-Production Meeting is held before starting of Pilot run and after fabric and most of
the trims are in house. [21]

• Merchandiser conducts this meeting to discuss all the details of the order which is being exe-
cuted till pre-production sample, and before holding the actual production at first place this
meeting plays the important role in all aspects of order execution. With the help of this meeting
merchandiser and other team members can understand the difficulties which are likely to arise
during production.Before going for actual production there should not be any doubt in any
one’s mind that is related to export order, hence all departments are necessary to be present for
this meeting. [21]

• The main purpose of PP meeting is to clarify any doubts and address any potential issues well
in advance to make sure everyone related to garment production is aware of all about the style
and execute the style respecting all quality points and to minimize communication gaps and to
get a know-how of the order starting from cutting section to finishing section. [21]

• This meeting includes every production details, planning and processes involved for it.All im-
portant comments, procedures to be followed, dos and don’ts related to style are discussed.
Scheduling of Pilot Run, PCD (planned cut date) and shipment date is shared to all teams dur-
ing the PP Meeting.This meeting enable garment manufacturer to take preventive measures, so
that finished garments meets or exceeds buyer’s quality expectations. Primarily, this meeting is
an internal function of garment manufacturer and some time it is also attainted by Buyer’s
Merchandiser and Quality team.Pre-production meeting need to be conducted for every style.
[21]
Purpose of PPM:

▪ To discuss the construction and technical details of the garment that is approved by Buyer
and going to load in production
▪ To identify the possible problems which is likely going to happen during the production
and try to resolve the same.
▪ To give the clear idea of the expected quality standards by Buyer to the production and
concern department, and discussion on the same.
▪ To discuss the difficulty incurred during sample making, and discuss the approach to
solve it.
▪ To ensure all the raw material like fabric, trims and accessories related to particular style
are in-house or expected date of sourcing to avoid down time in production.
▪ Merchandiser discusses the queries related to production asked by buyer with concern de-
partment and tries to resolve them.
▪ To set the responsibilities and time line for pending approvals and information, if any.[21]

10.DAILY PRODUCTION AND DAILY QUALITY REPORT

Daily Production Report contains yesterday’s production records line wise and style wise. Pro-
duction information in term of –
 • How many cutting has been loaded to each line yesterday and total loading done to a par-
ticular from loading of the style?
• How many pieces has been stitched yesterday and cumulative production till-date of all
styles those are currently loaded.
• How many pieces have been dispatched to finishing or washing department?

Efficiency and Productivity Report:The daily production report provides actual output numbers
of each line and each style. Line output is directly proportional to number of man
power in a line. If you have two different styles (of different work content) running in two
lines, performance of those line can’t be compared with output figures. The easy way to
check line’s performance is measuring line efficiency and machine productivity irrespec
-tive of styles, number of manpower and number of machine used. [8]

QUALITY REPORT:To achieve the overall objective we shall need to establish, document and
maintain a system capable of ensuring that products conform in total to standards, specifications
and sealed samples. This will be required at every stage of manufacture. Records must be main-
tained to give objective evidence that the specified requirements. There are a number of factors
on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - performance, reliability, durability,
visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular
framework of cost. [8]

Objectives
•To maximise the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first time.
•To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice in
design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market. [8]
11.FINAL INSPECTION

Final inspection is the last steps of garment inspection system. In this stage complete garments
are inspected by buyer. Different parts of garments are inspected in this stage such as garments
main fabric, accessories, trims, label, fabric faults etc. There are various systems for final inspec-
tion in the garment industry. Final inspection is very important for an export order shipment. To-
day I would like to discuss about the final inspection in the garment industry. [12]

Activities to be performed during final inspection are as follows:

1. Verifying Packing list comparing with P.O. sheet
2. Determining of lot size
3. Selecting of inspection severity level & sampling plan
4. Preparation of Inspection
5. Checking of carton
6. Selection of carton
7. Checking of Packing & packaging
8. Selection of sample randomly (sample packing)
9. Checking of garments Sample
10. Checking of measurement (Dimension)
11. Record and list all of the major or minor defects/defectives/non conformances
12. Tabulation and evaluation of results from this record
13. Drawing of defective sample for reference
14. Filling up of Carton (If samples are ok)
15. Putting of Sticker & signature on carton
16. Preparation of Report
17. Conformation for the shipment [12]

12.SHIPMENT
Shipping is a system process of model which covers planning and execution of receipts, ship-
ments, nominations and itineraries for ship, truck or pipeline. It can handle world scale calcula-
tions and tracking of vessels and inventories at multiple terminals and berths. This operational
model includes all internal and external movements.

Shipment sample is the sample which is required by the buyer after the final inspection is passed
and the goods are ready for shipment. The difference between the shipment sample and the other
samples mentioned above is that the shipment sample is in the form with all packing accessories
packed in the required form and will represent the product that the form in which the buyer will
receive the goods. [12]
 UNIT:4
ROLE OF IE DEPARTMENT
Industrial Engineering department is very important in the Apparel Manufacturing sector
for the betterment of achieving productivity, quality consciousness on the product output, em-
ployees, operators to be trained well to achieve targeted efficiency and growth of the industry at
most satisfied level. [14]

Industrial Engineering is concerned improvement, and installation of integrated materials, and

equipment. It draws upon and skill in the mathematical, physical, together analysis with the prin-
ciples and methods with the design, systems of men, specialized knowledge and social sciences,
of engineering and design, to specify, predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained from such
systems.[14]

Industrial Engineering, provides support service for the workers, supervisors, staff, and manage-
ment. Its assistance helps the company to be competitive in the market place. Through opera-
tional analysis, Industrial Engineering assistance will lead to lower costs for producing product. a
quality Once the method for producing a product is specified, standard hours should be applied
for performing that particular method. The company, by doing so, will-be able to price its product
to meet or beat the competition in the market place. The company must deliver an attractive
product. It must do so in time to satisfy customer demand, and be confident the customer is in
agreement with the price tag. In trying to achieve better value for the customer, it is important to
have confidence that it will be achieved. The positive attitude that costs are too high and there is
something that we can do about it must prevail. Effective action is necessary. Almost everything
being is replaceable by something that would perform function better at a lower cost. [14]

Objectives of IE Department:
• Monitoring production floor and having better control over the production floor
• Improving processes and method of working to increase factory's overall performance and
standardised garment manufacturing processes
• Contribute to the success of companies through effective problem solving
Evaluation of existing production target and fix a new production target.
• Constant control of direct labor cost.
• Data analysis and look into monthly trends
• Preparing daily production reports, Monthly improvements reports with graphical presentation.
• Time study and updating time study database including videos on constant basis.
• Research on motion study and implementation of the better system to eliminate excess motions.
• Research on new machinery and latest systems that meets companies long term goal and pre-
paring cost benefits analysis
• Research and development for samples prior to production start. [14]
Role of Industrial Engineer in Garment Industry :
Each executive/supervisor has eight areas of responsibility that need to be managed.
1. Safety
2. Line balancing
3. Quality – operation control
4. Training – how to train new employees
5. Operator output – maintains high output and improves abilities of those with low output.
6. Loss control – minimise off-standard loss
7. Waste control – in materials, supplies and machinery
8. Standard conditions – in the workplace, in sewing method, in the machines[14]

IE department works on the thread consumption,SMV,KPI.

They keep a check on the machine and labor requirement.
THREAD CONSUMPTION:
In today’s competitive marketplace, there is a need for tight cost control. A realistic estimation of
potential thread requirements for particular garment styles or contracts will not only end up sav-
ing you money, but also enable you to use a superior thread for the same cost, thereby not com-
promising on garment quality.[24]
Several factors determine the extent of thread consumption in any sewn product, such as stitch
type, seam type, material thickness, number of layers, construction and SPI (stitches per inch).
However, these factors are not constant with the different style preferences. Hence, thread con-
sumption is never standard for sewn product categories such as shirts, trousers and footwear.
There are two methods generally used to calculate the amount of thread in a seam and hence the
thread consumption in the sewn product:
. By measuring the actual amount of thread consumed
. By calculation using thread consumption ratios [24]

SMV(Standard Minute Value):

SMV is defined as the time which is allowed to perform a job satisfactorily. Normally it is ex-
pressed in minute value. The full elaboration of SMV is Standard Minute Value. SMV term is
broadly used in the garments manufacturing industry. SMV is also known as Standard Allocated
Minute (SAM). For smooth and timely shipment an export order a merchandiser need to proper
SMV set up in garments production floor.[9]

SMV Calculation in Garments Industry:

In garments industry, SMV calculation differ accounting to the number of operations, seams
length, types offabric, number of workers, machine efficacy etc.

General formula of SMV is given below-

SMV= Basic time + Allowance

Where,

Basic time= Observed time X Rating/ 100

Allowance= Relaxation allowance + Contingency allowance + Machine Delay Allowance.

Standard Minute Value of garments depends upon a good number of factors. They are as follow-
ing-

• Type of garments
• Types of fabrics
• Garments size
 • Garments design
• Difficulty of the processes
• Types of machine
• Types of technology[9]

KPI(KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS):

Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) are measured to assess where the factory currently stands and
to find key focus areas where management needs to look into. Top 9 KPIs have been list-
ed.Analysis of these KPIs is carried out monthly.

1. Factory Efficiency Percentage

2. Man to Machine Ratio:
3. Cut to ship ratio:
4. Order to ship ratio

5. On time delivery rate

6. Average style change over time

7. Right First Time (RFT) quality
8. Quality of Production:
9. Downtime percentage:

DAILY ACTIVITIES PERFORMED BY AN INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER

DURING DAY
▪ Measure the target vs. actual output every hour
▪ Check quality level
▪ Check inline and end line quality reports
▪ Discuss with quality inspectorsPerform quality drill
▪ Work with low output operators
▪ Check proper method
▪ Motivate and empower operator
▪ Follow up on new operators in training
▪ Follow up on operator in re-training
▪ Identify the bottle neck operations and balance accordingly
▪ Provide immediate and continuous follow-up to repairs
▪ Monitor and follow up on bundle tracking and outgoing bundles.
 ▪ Authorise any off-standard “clock-out”
▪ Order supplies and material for production [14]

AT THE END OF THE DAY

▪ Make sure the operators have turned off their machines, cleaned their work area, kept a
piece of fabric under the pressure foot, and covered their machine.
▪ Check and authorise the production work sheet
▪ Organise production sheets and check the last hour production with the sheet.
▪ Review the hourly production report and WIP report
▪ Analyse the next day’s needs and take notes for implementation
▪ Calculate the next day’s initial inventory according to production information [14]

REPORTS MADE BY THE IE DEPARTMENT:

• Daily Reports
Reports those are made on daily basis are known as Daily reports. IE department prepares follow-
ing reports on every day.
• Line, Factory and group efficiency report
• Line, Factory and group Lost time report
• Factory wise running style Costing report
• Daily factory KPI report
• Line, factory and group WIP report
• Individual sewing floor efficiency/Performance report includes operator and helpers
• Individual cutting and finishing efficiency/Performance report includes helpers and
checker [14]

• Weekly Reports
• Consolidated weekly production against planned
• Consolidated weekly efficiency against planned
• Consolidated weekly Line WIP report
• Consolidated incentive amount working report [14]

• Monthly ReportsIE department prepares following reports once in a month.

• Efficiency reconciliation report
• Lost time reconciliation report
• Completed styles reconciliation report
• Individual efficiency report for operator/helper/checker
• Machinery requirement report
• Training center progress report
• Monthly MIS meet report – Factory KPIs analysis
• Styles thread consumption/folder and attachment requirement report
• Line wise operators’ skill matrix report – once in 3 months
 • Group incentive working report

Industrial engineering is an important and essential part of any apparel industry. We learn all the
implementations of the processes which we have studied theoretically. It gives us an opportunity
to compare the theoretical knowledge with practical facts and thus develop our knowledge and
skills. This project also gives us an opportunity to enlarge our knowledge of textile administra-
tion, production planning, procurement system, production process, and machineries and teach us
to adjust with the industrial life. [14]

LINE BALANCING:Line Balancing is levelling the workload across all processes in a cell or
value stream to remove bottlenecks and excess capacity. A constraint slows the process down and
results if waiting for downstream operations and excess capacity results in waiting and absorption
of fixed costs.[8]

It is the allocation of sewing machine, according to style and design of the garments. It depends
on what types of garments we have to produce. It is done to increasing productivity.

When you consider mass production, garments are produced in lines or set of machines instead of
single machine. A line may be assembly line, modular line or section, a line set with online fin-
ishing and packing. A line includes multiple work stations with varied work contents. Production
per hour is varied depending on work content (standard minutes of particular task/operation), al-
location of total manpower to a particular operation, operator skill level and machine capacity.
Operation with lowest production per hour is called as bottleneck operation for that line. [8]

Objectives of Line Balancing

Match the production rate after all wastes have been removed to the talk time at each process of
the value stream.
1. Regular material flow.
2. Maximum uses of man power and machine capacity.
3. Minimum process time.
4. Minimising slack time.
5. Minimising workstation.
6. Maximum output at the desired time.
7. Quality maintenance of the garment.
8. Reduce production cost.[8]
 UNIT 5:
LAYOUT OF PRODUCTION AND FINISHING DEPARTMENT

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT:The making of garments products from fabrics through the

process design, cutting and sewing are called garments productions. In the apparel indus-
try, production is including few activate such as order receiving, sampling, cutting,
sewing, washing, finishing, packing, etc. For handling an export order, need to smooth
operation of every step of the production process. Faulty activities of the production
process can be hazarded garment production flow chart. So, let’s talk about an ideal gar-
ment production flow chart.[8]

The main function of the production department is stitching garments:

1. Style Analysis
2. Estimating labour costs
3. Planning and scheduling floor level production
4. Setting the line
5. Stitching garments
6. Balancing the assembly line
7. Marking parts
8. Ironing garment components
9. Checking stitched garments:
10. Stitching alteration
11. Managing documentation
12. Recruiting operators

DEPARTMENTS INCLUDED UNDER PRODUCTION UNIT ARE:

1. Sample Department:Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the ap-

proval of future orders from buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or export
company. Sampling is one of key elements of the pre-production processes in a garment industry.
Before a manufacturer produces bulk orders, a prior sampling of styles is done to get approvals
and jumpstart the fabrication of garments.[8]
Sampling is not just for buyers, but the manufacturers can also derive estimates of yarn consump-
tion for development of fabric, dyeing, printing, and stitching cost for a particular style or pattern
given by the buyer. Companies can have a separate sampling department or a merchandiser, who
works closely with the sampling section to source raw materials, and processes for developing a
quality product for an affordable price.[8]

Sampling includes details like a product/style code or a reference number, color specifications,
kind of fabric, composition, description, quantity, and details of embroidery, buttons, zippers, or
any other sort of accessories used. Hence it can be said that samples of garments work as a bridge
between buyers and the producers.[8]

There are many people who are involved directly and indirectly in the process of sampling. De-
signers, buyers, individuals engaged in sourcing and purchasing, production team, quality control
personnel, and the costing department at different levels work closely on the sampling of gar-
ments.[8]

2. Cutting Department:Cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics and feeding the
sewing department with cuttings. The cutting department’s capacity is planned based on the daily
feeding requirement of the sewing lines. The cutting department is set up with a cutting depart-
ment head, cutters, spreaders, quality checkers and helpers for sorting, ply numbering and
bundling. The activities of the cutting department are explained in this post.[8]

1. Take fabric from the fabric store:

The cutting department gets a cut order from the production manager. According to the cutting
plan, the cutting in-charge generates a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip to the fabric
store to issue fabrics. [8]
 Cutting department
2. Relaxation of fabrics:
Knitted fabrics require relaxation before cutting. After receiving the fabric from the fabric store,
the cutting department opens the fabric from the fabric roll and lays it on the table for relaxation
for some hours before cutting. Factories also relax fabric in the fabric store overnight after open-
ing the fabric rolls. [8]

3. Cut order planning:

\Cutting master plan the number of markers they need to prepare, the size combination to be set
for each marker and the number of plies to be laid in each marker.[8]

4. Fabric Spreading/ layering:

In mass production, multiple layers of fabric are cut at the same time. So spreaders lay fabric on a
cutting table as per total marker length. The layer height is kept up to a certain inch.[8]

5. Planning markers:
The cutting master plans marker ways, marker lengths and the numbers of plies to be laid in each
lay. [8]

6. Making markers:
This is a process of making an outline of garment patterns on the lay for cutting garment compo-
nents. After layering, the marker paper is laid on the top of the layer. Those factories that don’t
have CAD markers make markers manually using paper patterns.[8]
7. Cutting fabrics:
After making the marker, garment patterns are cut and taken out from the layer. Various tech-
nologies are used for cutting fabric layers, such as straight knife cutting, band knife machine cut-
ting and a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine.[8]

8. Sorting, bundling and numbering of garment plies (parts):

After cutting the fabric, layers are sorted size-wise and colour-wise. Each ply is numbered using
stickers. Bundles are kept on inventory tables, before these are sent to undergo the next process.
[8]

9. Inspecting cut components:

To maintain the cutting quality, standard cutting components are checked randomly by quality
checkers. If defective components are found, they replace those defective parts.[8]

10. Sorting printed and embroidery panels:

As per order requirements, printing and embroidery is done on cut panels. Size-wise sorting is
done after receiving printed and embroidered panels. The checking of printed and embroidered
panels is also done by the cutting department[8]

11. Re-cutting panels:

Re-cutting is done for garment components that require to be replaced in bundles. Re-cutting re-
quests are received from the sewing department for defective garment parts. Re-cutting is also
done for block panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After receiving garment
panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are reshaped. [8]

13. Fusing garment components:

Fusing in garment components is done to stiffen parts of a garment. If needed, fusing is done at
the cutting section (e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts)[8]

3. Sewing Department:In the apparel industry or clothing industry, sewing section is the
main department for garments manufacturing. When all the garments are complete to cut in the
cutting section, all of these cutting parts are sending to sewing department for making garment. In
this section different cutting parts are joining together with the help of different types of sewing
machine, threads and needle. To complete the perfect garment easily and timely Floor in-charge
always maintains a working procedure. Working procedure is also called as process flow chart of
sewing department in the garments industry. [7]
 Fig: Working procedure of sewing department in apparel industry
Preparation
for Finishing Department
Machine used in the sewing section:
1. Single Needle Lock Stitch machine
2. Double needle Lock stitch machine
3. Vertical Lock stitch machine
4. Single needle Chain Stitch machine
5. Pointer (collar. Cuff)
6. Halamark m/c
7. Overclock Machine ( 5Thread )
8. Feed off the Arm machine
9. Flat bet fusing machine
10. Continuous fusing Machine
11. Kansai machine etc.

Process flow of sewing section:

 Figure 2- Diagram in how sewing section perform
Working way of sewing floor:

Product Analysis & set up target for Line: Here usually find the critical operation of theproduct
by analyzing the product and decide where need help, which operator works on which operation.
After analyzing the product line target is set for per hour production. Line supervisor Monitoring
target production achieving or not.

Set up machine layout on the basis of Target: On the basis of operation layout and target of per
line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hour production. [7]

Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production line to capacitate the flow line of
production. If line is not balanced properly, required target result will not be achieved properly.
Some work have higher work load, some have lower load which caused bottleneck in the line.

Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring line balancing, , bundle wise cut panel input to line as per
pre-determined manner to workers.

Sewing: Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according to machine layout
for ensuring right operation is made by right machine and right operator. [7]

Online Quality check: In this stage, front and back part sewing quality checked by on-line quality
inspector .if found any defect, send the garment to that operator who sew the defective for repair
the sewing faults.

End line Quality check: Here Full garments of both inside and outside checked properly to ensure
the garments is defect free. If found any defect, repair that defect by who are responsible for that
defect. Here also count the body to comparing if target is achieved or not.
Body sends to finishing section: After end line quality inspector, garments are sending to finish-
ing section for finished the body for shipment as per buyer’s requirements. [7]

4. Finishing Department:In the apparel industry, finishing room is the last steps of garment
manufacturing or assembling the operation are performed. After making complete stitched gar-
ments by sewing section, these are passed in finishing department for ironing, folding, poly pack-
ing, cartoning to get attractive appearance. All types of garments finishing activities are done
here.[12]

Functions of Finishing Department in Apparel Industry: Before going to know about functions of
finishing department. Here I have given the flow chart of garments finishing section which will
be effective to know at a glance.

Fig: Garment finishing department

Flow chart of finishing department in garment industry:

Received sewn garments from sewing room

↓
Initial quality check
↓
Washing
↓
Button attached
↓
Tread trimming
↓
Ironing/pressing (inside)
↓
Quality inspection (inside) process wise
↓
 Ironing / pressing (outside)
↓
Quality inspection (outside) process wise
↓
Re-pressing
↓
Inspection overall (out looks)
↓
Accessories attached
↓
Folding
↓
Shade sorting
↓
Poly packing
↓
Quality audit
↓
Prepare a packing list
↓
Assorting
↓
Carton pack
↓
Final inspection
↓
Record the documents

Garment finishing department’s function are:

Received sewn garments from sewing room:

Here, sewn garments are received from sewing department for finishing the garments.

Initial quality check:

Here stitched garments are initially checked by the quality controller. If their found any repairable
or washable defects then garments need repair works in finishing section. But if found
major sewing defects, fabric faults then again send to thesewing department for correction. [12]

Washing:
For wash garments, 100% check is required after receiving the garments from the sewing de-
partment. Defective garments should be rectified and reject pcs should be sorted out. If there are
any faults like oil marks, stains, other dust and spots then garment washing must be needed.
Some spots are removed by using spot remover and dust and stains are removed by using ma-
chine wash inside the finishing section.
Button attached:
Button, button holes, snap button, eyelets are attached on garment in finishing section. [12]

Tread trimming:
Garment uncut treads are trimmed by helper in finishing section. Otherwise it creates major or
minor defects in garment. [12]

Ironing/pressing (inside):
To remove unwanted wrinkles or crease mark, garments are pressed by using steam iron. For get-
ting actual garment measurement vacuum tables are used for garment ironing. [12]

Quality inspection (inside) process wise:

After complete the inside ironing then inspect the quality of garments. [12]

Ironing / pressing (outside):

If the inside garments quality inspection is done then it passes for outside pressing. [12]

Quality inspection (outside) process wise:

Check the outside garments quality like measurement, placement of collar etc.

Re-pressing:
When all the quality (like inside and outside) inspection is complete then garments are placed for
re-pressing. [12]

Inspection overall (out looks):

Here, quality inspector ensures the overall out looks of garments.

Accessories attached:
All kinds of garments accessories like hang tag, price tag, barcode etc are attached here.

Folding:
Garments are folded here as following the buyer’s instruction. [12]

Shade sorting:
Quality inspector checks the color shade sorting on garments. They calculate a shade number for
each sample based on how close its color shade is to the standard.

Poly packing:
After folding and color shade sorting garments are poly packed here as per buyer requirements.

Quality audit:
Quality audit can be performed in the sewing section as well as in the finishing section. It is very
effective quality control activity to achieve the quality target. Quality audit is done prior to final
inspection. [12]

Prepare a packing list:

In this stage, finishing in-charge prepare packing list for cortoning and garment shipment also.
After preparing packing list finishing department inform it with apparel merchandiser.

Assorting:
Before cartoning finishing in-charge must confirm and follow the color and size wise assorting
system. [12]

Carton pack:
Here all the garments should pack to send the garments safely in to the buyer.

Final inspection:
If all the above processes are perfectly done, then apparel manufacturers are organized pre-ship-
ment or final inspection on garments. After finished the garments, factory top management, mer-
chandiser, production manager, QC, Finishing inspector and buyers representatives are to do this
final inspection. [12]

Record the documents:

All details documents about production to shipment must be recorded or file up in the official
desk.
The main function of the production department is stitching garments. But there are many as-
sociate activities performed by production team to run the production floor smoothly. The major
tasks of this department are described here but are not limited to these only. [12]
 UNIT:6
ROLE OF DESIGN DEPARTMENT

The design department can be considered as the research and development department of a cloth-
ing factory, because it is in this department that the prototypes of garments are developed and
prepared for selling and production. For most factories the process of product development in-
volves seven stages.[10]

1. Forecasting

Fashion forecasting is information that offers effective and highly accurate trend predictions
the fashion, style and related industries. Fashion intelligence and industry experience shape the
reports which are creative, inspiring and highly focused on various product. This provides analy
sis of current and future fashion trends and a very comprehensive coverage of Colour & trend
direction, 18 months in advance of the season followed by design reports for each trend,
12 months ahead.[10]
2. Designing
The designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, while others
drape fabric on a dress form and some others use computerised design system. These sys-
tems are becoming widely used and provide the designer with a highly versatile and flexi-
ble tool for creating new designs in the shortest time. The designer with the help of fore-
casting trends of style, colour and fabrics develops the illustrations/sketches for haute
couture or readymade or mass market.[10]

3. Collection planning
This process is in effect the pre production phase of sampling and the objectives are to set
out in detail the styles, fabrics and colors which will represent the company’s proposals
for the forth-coming season. The designer works in close co–operation with the marketing
department and tighter they attempt to determine the best possible style, fabric and price
combinations. Using the sketches of core collection, various alternatives and approaches
will be examined:
• Developing the variations from the core designs,
• Trying the same cloth on a number of different designs,
• Modifying some of the ideas to make garments more acceptable to a wider range
of customers,
• Addition of ‘fill-in’ type garments for which there may be a steady demand
throughout the season.
• Inclusion of garments which some of the larger buyers have indicated an interest.
• Balancing the contents of the collection so that it contains the optimum style and
price combinations.[10]

4. Pattern Making
Pattern making may be done manually by a trained patter maker with a paper and measur-
ing tools or by using an auto CAD or by draping fabric directly onto the dress form. The
resulting pattern pieces are used to construct the garment in required size. Various shapes
and sizes of pattern pieces can be produced for various styles of garments.[10]

5. Technology
Technological innovations in the garment industry have been tremendous. Each and every
department of the apparel industry has the scope of highly efficient machines. Use of so-
phisticated and advance ,machine improves the quality of the product and maximizes the
profits of the company.[10]

6. Production of sample garments

Sampling unit within the industry makes sample garments supervised by the pattern mak-
er or the designer. Sampling is a continual process during the development of new prod-
uct. A sample needs to conform to the design, fabric and color trends along with the per-
fect fit analysis. Cost of each sample must be accurately calculated in order to determine
the cost price and then the selling price.[10]
7. Pattern Grading
Pattern sizing and grading done on computer or manually is link between pattern design
and generation and preparatory stages of cutting in different sizes. It is the process where
patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern.[10]

CONCEPT AND PROCESS OF DESIGN

The development and formulation of a design requires rigorous involvement and in most of the
cases follows some or the other process. The process involved should be a course of action that
would make reaching the goal very much easier and simpler. Design can be defined to conceive
the idea for some artifact or system and/or to express the idea in a form. It would also mean
reaching the goals within constraints. Here, the goals consist of the purpose like who is the design
for? What is the use of the design etc. The constraints on the other hand are the materials and the
platforms to be used. Overall it is a very challenging job to create a design that is aesthetic, cre-
ative and innovative at the same time.[25]

CONCEPT:A concept is a general idea, thought or understanding. In a sense, it refers to the

theme that drives one’s activity. “It is part of the creative process that presents development in
conceptual thinking”. [25]

ANALYSING THE BRIEF

Before starting your work, it is very essential to understand accurately what is required for a
client or project. It can make the difference between a success or a failure [25]

RESEARCH:Research is a journey of questioning, exploring, conceptualizing and visualizing

information generated by observation and investigation. Record the all research information’s and
creates a rich visual archive which can be used to inspire your designs from theme to final detail.
Research is the key direction to good design development. It is actual guideline to start fashion
design development process. [25]

MARKET RESEARCH:
• Market research is done by almost every company so as to analyze the popularity and effec-
tiveness of a brand launched by them among customers. This research basically includes sec-
ondary and primary research that focuses on surveys so as to modify the product and increase
clientele. [26]
• The questions posed during market research are basically on the number of competitors, latest
trends in the current market place, needs of the customers and the response of the latest product
launched in the market. Market research is also done so as to analyze if the newly launched
product is catering to the needs and specifications of the customers or not. The market research
services mainly include telephonic surveys, face to face surveys, online surveys, business sur-
veys, qualitative surveys, in-depth surveys and financial surveys. [26]
• This kind of research can help the businesses to gather details such as if the people of all in-
come groups can afford a specific product or not. After gathering sufficient data on a specific
 product, businesses can make customer friendly modifications so as to increase clientele and
retain existing clients. [26]
• Market research can help businesses to make effective plans so as to increase sales and promo-
tion of a brand. It can help businesses to make plans regarding price of a product, advertising
and marketing of a product. Businesses can plan product development and features too by the
means of market research campaign. Market research is basically a systematic approach so as
to gather the feedback of the customer. [26]

RESEARCH INSPIRATION:(personal inspiration & concepts):

• Inspiration can come from anywhere. Sources of inspiration are individual and also related to
the designer’s personal experience.
• Research material will help you to provide a focus on your ideas and product design. This ref-
erence material will provide the theme that will inspire the colour, texture, image and styles of
your designs. Inspiration can be taken from natural form, colour and texture and raw materials.
• Designers can be influenced by the current trends, architecture, museums and exhibitions,
books and magazines, historical influences, art, global styles, cultures and traditional areas of
inspiration etc.

INSPIRATION BOARD:
Inspiration board is a references and research framework for your design. Designer collects dif-
ferent inspirational images, words, and objects (fabric, colour, textures,trims, paint chips, packag-
ing, etc.) that are organize and keep at hand as a reference for starting a fashion design. It can be
made in the form of a paper poster, a bulletin board, a digital graphic, or a video. [27]

MOOD BOARD:A mood board sets the mood like a style, feeling, emotional scenario, ambience,
presence, context, clean and modern, soft and romantic, summertime fun, dark or light for what-
ever the final product will be. A mood board will influence what goes into an inspiration board.
[27]

FABRIC AND TRIM SELECTION:

In this stage fabric properties like its weight, tenacity, and construction are determined. Now-a-
days fabrics are becoming smarter. For the textile development there are new terms are used such
as, high performances, technical, intelligent and smart fabric. Some designers select these kinds
of fabrics to show their creativity and present it on fashion show. [27]

Designer select perfect trims to embellishing fabric in the form of hand work, computerized em-
broidery, treadle work and other embellishing media are selected to decorate the body fabric with
due consideration of costs involved. [27]

COLOR SELECTION:

Color is a basic consideration in the fashion design process. In most cases color is the first ele-
ment that is noticed about a design and has a huge impact in how that garment is perceived. Dif-
ferent forecasting companies research and develop new and existing colour palettes from many
sources like yarn technologists, international fabric fairs, leather suppliers, trimming merchants
etc. some fashion magazine give inspirational colour guideline for fashion design. [27]
Texture:
To get attractive design, the feel, handle and texture of fabrics is most essential. Fashion is a vis-
ual medium; so touch becomes increasingly important to express luxury looks at the fashion mar-
ket. Textile technologists have made great improvements in the sensual aspects of fabric like how
it feels, looking and behaves, in addition to treatments that can affect the look and feel of gar-
ments after they are made, for example, washes and abrasions. [27]

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:[12]

1. In this stage designer sketch a model with right proportion and express his or her design idea
on figure.
2. Experiment with elements of design like shape, form, silhouette, proportion, texture, pattern
and colour. In fashion design process the term silhouette refers to express the overall shape
and volume of the design. Silhouette is one of the most important design considerations and it
is easy to overlook when working on paper in a two-dimensional context. Designer gives the
perfect silhouette from the front side and from the back side or side view. It is the meaningful
relationship between garment and body like A-line, I-line, V-line, two tiered silhouette etc [12]
3. Also apply the principle of art like harmony, proportion, balance, rhythm and emphasis on
dress design
4. Maintain the aesthetic considerations on design.
5. They do the surface decoration detail and finish on model figure and also follow the style and
dress fittings.
6. Apply the perfect fabrication; handle, drape, structure and linings.
7. Sampling of finish, detail, seams and embellishment.
8. To start designing it is important to understand the construction techniques to create basic
skirts, bodices, jackets and coats, sleeves, trousers and collars. It is the key elements that form
Western dress. To create a three dimensional shape on the figure and illustrate contemporary
fashion design should know basic garment cutting and fitting method. Also follow the two-
dimensional planning of construction, fastenings, performance and movement. [12]

SAMPLE MAKING:
After developing the design process, designer makes a sample to check the final getup.

DESIGN COLLECTION:
Fashion design collection is a range of garments, accessories or products that are designed and
produced for sale to retailers or direct to the customer. It is grouped by theme, colour or fabrica-
tion, creating a strong fashion statement. This range of items may be inspired by trends and
theme. Cultural and social influences are reflecting on design. Designs are usually done for the
special occasion or season. Collection is a grouping of outfits that are present for catwalk, online
web pages. For the wholesale market, the collection will be shown at trade shows or in-house
events. For the general customer designer give their collections on press or magazine by attrac-
tive photographs. [12]
Range planning:
When all of the designs are completed and set out the financial parameters then range planning is
required. A range plan is an overview of your total design collection like from how many styles
you will have, to what fabrics and colour ways will be used. It is used before you start into large
scale production. It is extremely useful for you to follow as a designer. But most importantly it
gives buyers a clear conception of your vision. [12]

DECISION MAKING:
In this stage only experience person who can help to improve decision making. It is really de-
pends on whether the unfolding of a range or collection fulfils the original need or philosophy.
Decisions on research, colour, design development, fabrication, silhouette, proportion, construc-
tion, prototyping and embellishment all contribute to a well considered range. [12]

In the fashion industry designers are responsible for designing the range and for providing design
direction to the buyer. They would work with the buyer regarding previous best sellers in the
range and consider this when producing new styles. Before making any decision designer follow
merchandisers or best sellers data, consider about the upto-date trend information, fashion direc-
tion, buyer and merchandiser feedback, finally maintain consumer and market demands. Deci-
sions are constantly being made but are always informed. [12]

SUMMARY
 The role of textile and clothing (T&C) industries in growth and development strategies in
developing countries. It suggests that textiles and clothing industries are important in economic
and social terms, in the short-run by providing incomes, jobs, especially for women, and foreign
currency receipts and in the longrun by providing countries the opportunity for sustained eco-
nomic development in those countries with appropriate policies and institutions to enhance the
dynamic effects of textiles and clothing. The potential of the textile and clothing industries to
contribute to long-run growth and development will depend not only on the attributes (desirable
or otherwise) of the investors, but also on the quality and effectiveness of government policies
and institutions in developing countries to build on this investment. [28]

Economic aspects:
The T&C industries are very important for a handful of countries, in terms of trade, GDP and
employment and have contributed significantly in several other countries. The T&C industries
provide opportunities for export diversification and expansion of manufactured exports for low-
income countries that can exploit their labour cost advantages and fill emerging niches and meet
buyer demands. There are also dynamic effects of T&C industries and these dynamic effects are
greater, the more linkages have been built up between the garment industry and local textile sup-
pliers. [28]

Social aspects :
There are also important social aspects of the T&C industry (apart from the jobs provided). While
wages in developing countries in some assembly activities will be lower than wages in developed
countries in downstream activities in the same clothing value chain, this misses the point for two
reasons. Firstly, without appropriate policies and institutions, developing counties often do not
have the skills to enter into higher value added activities such as design and marketing and hence
1 will not be able to command a similar wage as in headquarter firms in developed countries. We
find that textile wages are higher than garment assembly wages, and the latter activities are more
prevalent in poorer developing countries. [28]

Trade and other policies:

The pattern and effects of textiles and clothing industries in developing countries has been af-
fected by trade and other economic policies. Countries with adequate public policies and private
sectors have used the opportunities provided by temporary trade preferences for the T&C to
move up the value added chain (e.g. Asian Tigers, Mauritius, Costa Rica); other countries have
used the trade preferences to attract a very important part of their manufacturing base (e.g.
Lesotho, Bangladesh, Malawi) but may still have to make full use of the opportunities offered to
develop dynamically and diversify into other activities at a time they are faced with 2 competition
from other countries, e.g. China which affects T&C based strategies (though wages in southern
China are already rising). [28]
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19.https://resources.workable.com
20.http://www-personal.umich.edu
21. https://www.textiletoday.com
22.http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/buyer-negotiation-process/
23.http://www.leedsamples.com/material-samples/swatch-cards/
24.https://www.coats.com
25.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creativity
26.http://seminalresearch.com/importance-of-market-research/
27.https://www.smashingmagazine.com/2010/02/finding-inspiration-in-uncommon-sources-12-
places-to-look/
28. https://www.odi.org/sites/odi.org.uk/files/odi-assets/publications-opinion-files/3361.pdf