AcuIDE . to weaves and designs in tailors’ cloths PLAIN WEAVE or PANAMA (tee) ‘The simplest form of woven structure, both weft being over one and under warp HOPSACK or CELTIC (right) A plain weave derivative; only the threads are interlaced in weft and warp with two for more threads instead of one. secenty-tc0 [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cont) TWILL OR COMMON TWILL ‘The most commonly used of all weaves. It is characterised by a distinct diagonal effect. CAVALRY TWILL or TRICOLINE A steep-set twill variation. seventy-three[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (on) [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cn) ONAL, CABARDINE praconal This 2 multiple ew Fine twill weave basis steeply set. contrast is very pronounced. DOUBLE DIAGONAL WHIPCORD OR STEEP TWILL A multiple twill giving two, three or more steeply contrasted bold twill Hines. A steep, bold twill variation. seventyfour F seem fice[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (ont) ONE AND ONE or PICK AND PICK ‘The basic weave is a common twill, with 7 ‘one light and one dark thrend, warp and weft. TWO AND TWO A common twill weave coloured two light, ‘two dark in the warp with a medium or dark contrasting welt. seventy-seven A.GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (con) BARATHEA or TWILLED HOPSACK A weave giving effect of twill running both right and left. BANNOCKBURN or PEPPER Al SALT ‘Twill weave, coloured one and one with highly contrasted marl or twistin warp and welt seventycight[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (or) ‘A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (ont) PINHEAD or BEDFORD CORD PEPITA A combination of plain weave and whipcord. ‘Common twill weave coloured, one light and one dask warp, solid dark weft HAIRLINE or ETON STRIPE A special weave derivative to give that effect. A plain cloth or hopeack light and dark in warp and weft, to give a straight vertical line of light and dark alternatively eightyA GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cnt) BARLEYCORN or BARLEYPICKLE ‘A common twill basis so arranged as to sive the effect of a Barleycorn. BASKETWEAVE A combination of right and left hand twills siving a basket work effect. eighty-one [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cont) CORKSCREW, A cloth giving the appearance of a rib running across the fabric at a very low angle. HERRINGBONE Common twill base combining right and ing the same width dightyteo[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cnt) [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cots) THREE AND THREE, BROKEN HERRINGBONE Common twill base coloured three Same as ordinary herringbone, except light, three dark, warp and wef that the legs are of uneven width SHEPHERDS CHECK ONE AND ONE HERRINGBONE, Common twill weave coloured five oF more light, ive or more dark, warp and. wet Same as one and one or pick and pick, but in herringbone effect. aaron: cighty-threA.GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (con) A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (co!) Stata DOGTOOTH DOGTOOTH STRIPE See ee eseeeeetes pe eteetts Pate ELLE poe Rope LEE i eee ites ee eeeeeeeeees REEE TEETER . Common twill base coloured four light, four dark, warp and weft 5 os Same as glencheck but rmiting weft check effect, giving effect of a dogtooth eee oe beer cis bea E ET SOUEATTETETETEETREEUEESS ing eg leh cele iel cee eee Cheers rg tt tt i i i Hi i ia Ht i ts i i i r = oh bs BLOCKCHECK GUNCLUB Enlarged design of the shepherd check, Common twill weave, coloured four or aioe eee ‘more light, four or more mid, four or more light, four or more dark, warp and weft, ightysie eighty-five[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (tt) [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cn!) GLENURQUHAR TWO AND TWO CHECK GLENSTRIPE WITH OVERCHECK Common twill weave combining dark and tight warp and weft coloured to give check iewere) 8 same as glenstripe, but on a one and one fet. base with a two and wo stripe. GUARDSCHECK GLE! RIPE Common twill base giving this check effect Glenstripe, same as glencheck, omitting by special arrangement of light and dark i welt checking with overcheek, eighty sevon fighy-cght[A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (cn!) [A GUIDE TO WEAVES AND DESIGNS (ont) PINSTRIPE DIAM WEAVES Single fine striping thread which gives the ‘effect of 2 pinhead spot. ‘A combination of ‘right- and left-hand ‘wills, giving diamond effect. CHALKSTRIPE SHELLWEAVE A series of light threads wed to give @ i A combination of right- and leftchand sie effect, resembling a ine made by H cwitle,giving shell effect. tailors chat ; ighty-nine