Amigurumi Patterns

A.
Crochet Diddy Hedgehog by Sarah Lyons

Round 1
Using larger hook and body colour:
5sc in adjustable loop – do not tighten yet
Make a bobble in the loop as follows:
Yarn over and pull through the next sc as usual (3 on hook)
Yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook (2 remaining on hook)
Yarn over and pull through the same hole (5 on hook)
Yarn over and pull through the 6 loops on the hook
Make sure the bobble is pushed to the front every time
Tighten the starting loop as usual = 5sc and 1 bobble
Round 2
2sc in each sc of the round (and the bobble) = 12sc
Round 3
(1sc, bobble) 6 times = 6sc and 6 bobbles
Round 4
2sc in each = 24sc
Round 5
Round 6
24sc
Round 7
Round 8
24sc
Round 9
**this is the end of the bobbles**
Round 10
1sc (to finish off the last bobble)
Chain 2 (counts as 1HDC)
23 HDC all the way round and slip stitch into top of chain 2
Round 11
Chain 1
24sc in the row below from the back (to the left of the HDC post – but not the post) and change to nose
colour yarn on the last sc catching the ends in the next round.
Round 12
Change to smaller hook
24sc in the ‘inner’ of the two rounds (the sc from the last round)
Round 13
(2tog, 6sc) 3 times
Round 14
(2tog, 5sc) 3 times
Round 15
6sc, 2tog, 4sc, dec, 4sc
Round 16
6sc, 2tog, 3sc, decrease, 3sc
Round 17
6sc, 2tog, 2sc, decrease,2sc
Round 18
6sc, 2tog, 1sc, decrease,1sc

Round 19
6sc, 2tog, 2tog
Round 20
6sc, 2tog
Round 21
2tog once more then finish up by cutting the yarn and threading onto a needle, picking up the outer strand
of the last 6sc and pulling up gently. Pull the end through the body if your needle is long enough, wiggle
it around and pull up until the nose is the shape you want and secure tightly.
Embroider a nose and eyes with black or brown wool and you’re done. Huzzah another recruit!
B. Amigurumi Crochet Octopus Pattern
Legs
MAKE SEVEN
1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)
2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. sc in each stitch around (12)
5. in each stitch around (12)
Cut yarn and weave in ends on all seven legs.
LEG EIGHT
1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)

2. [inc] x6 (12)
DO NOT CUT YARN – you are now going to join all the legs together.
For the next round (joining legs) you will be working into SIX stitches only on each leg.
6. sc in 6 stitches on each leg, ending with 6sc around leg EIGHT – for your last 6sc, count 6 stitches
back from the original join so that you end in the correct place when crocheting on leg EIGHT (48)
7. BLO sc in each stitch around (48)
8. [dec] x24 (24)
9. [2sc, dec] x6 around
10. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)
11. [dec] x6 (6)
Cut yarn, thread needle and run through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight then
weave in.
TOP OF LEGS AND BODY
Flip leg section over.
You will now be crocheting into your unworked stitches on the legs.
To avoid having large gaps in you work where your legs join, you will be working a decrease stitch over
the gap between the legs.
You may find you are not working a decrease into a proper full stitch, don’t worry, just ensure you attach
the first part of your decrease into the leg you are currently on, and end the decrease on the adjacent leg.
If in doubt, you will see you have 6 obvious crochet stitches and half stitch / gaps either side. Work
decreases into those gaps.
Count 6 full sc back on any leg and join your yarn to that stitch.
1. [6sc, dec over leg gaps] x8 (56)
2. [5sc, dec] x8 (48)
3. [dec] x24 (24)
4. [2sc, dec] x6 (18)
Lightly stuff the legs (legs only!)
The body is made using staggered increases to avoid the hexagonal increase lines you would normally find
in standard circle increasing.
You may wish to use your stitch marker here if you aren’t already!
5. [2sc, inc] x6 (24)
6. [3sc, inc] x6 (30)
7. 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)
8. [5sc, inc] x6 (42)
9. 3sc, inc, [6sc, inc] x5, 3sc (48)
10. [7sc, inc] x6 (54)
11. 4sc, inc, [8sc, inc] x5, 4sc (60)

Place safety eyes between Rows 16 & 17, 10 stitches apart
22. 4sc, dec, [8sc, dec] x5, 4sc (54)
23. [7sc, dec] x6 (48)
24. 3sc, dec, [6sc, dec] x5, 3sc (42)
25. [5sc, dec] x6 (36)
26. 2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)
27. [3sc, dec] x6 (24)
28. [2sc, dec] x6 (18)
Stuff the body
29. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)
30. [dec] x6 (6)
Cut yarn, thread needle and run through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight then weave in.
Embroider the face with your pink and black scraps of yarn and you are done!
C. MINI BT21 CROCHET PATTERN by PaigeeCrochets

“I Love This Yarn”
3.5 mm hook
Make “fluff” by brushing out acrylic yarn with a pet slicker brush, for clearer instructions you can find the
video tutorial on my Youtube Paigee
https://youtu.be/FAhiL-Mqvvs
COOKY
Yarn: Pink, Black
Fluff: White
BODY
Using Pink
R1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: [sc, inc] repeat around (18)
R4: [sc 2, inc] repeat around (24)
R6-13: sc around (30)
R14: [sc 3, dec] repeat around (24)
R16: [sc, dec] repeat around (12)
R17: dec around (6)
Cut yarn, sew remaining hole shut
EARS
Using Pink
Chain 1+1
R1: sc 4 (4)
R3: sc around (6)
Leave tail for sewing
Sew left ear down
Use White fluff for ear detail
Sew Cooky’s face using Black
ARMS
Using Pink
Chain 1+1
R1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using Pink
Chain 1+1
R1: sc 4 (4)
TAIL
Using Pink
Chain 1+1
R1: sc 4 (4)
R2: sc around (4)
Use white fluff to make heart around tail
CHIMMY
Yarn: Yellow, Black
Fluff: White, Tropical Pink
BODY
Using Yellow
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
R2: inc around (12)

R17: dec around (6)
EARS
Using Black
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
R3-4: sc around (6)
Use white fluff to make Chimmy’s face
Use black yarn to sew face details (tropical pink fluff for tongue)
ARMS
Using Yellow
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using Yellow
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
TATA
Yarn: Fire Red, Black
Fluff: Yellow
BODY
Using Fire Red
R2: inc around (12)
R9: sc 16, ch 2, sl st in first st of round (count as new end of rnd) (18)
R2: dec around (6)
Sew remaining hole shut, join yarn on other half
R1: sc around (18)
R3: dec around (6)
Sew remaining hole shut

Needle felt mouth with yellow fluff
Sew face with black yarn
ARMS
Using Fire Red
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using Fire Red
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
KOYA
Yarn: Turquoise, Black
Fluff: Grape, Arctic Ice
BODY
Using Turquoise
R2: inc around (12)

R17: dec around (6)
EARS
Using Turquoise
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
Needle felt ear details with Arctic Ice fluff
Needle felt nose with Grape fluff
Sew face using black
ARMS
Using Turquoise
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using Turquoise
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
TAIL
Using Turquoise
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
R2: sc around (4)
MANG
Yarn: Turquoise, Grape, Orchid, Black
Fluff: Tropical Pink, Black, White
BODY
Using Turquoise
R2: inc around (12)
R17: dec around (6)
EARS
Using Turquoise
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
R2: sc around (4)
Leave tail for sewing (sew around)
MANE
Using Grape
Bobble: [y/o, pull up loop, pull through 2] repeat 4 times (5 loops), pull through all
Chain 10+2
Row 1: [bobble, sl st] x5
TAIL
Using Grape
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 3 (3)
Sew hole shut, attach tail
Use tropical pink fluff for heart nose
Use black and white fluff for eyes
Use black yarn to sew nose details
ARMS
Using Orchid
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)

LEGS
Using Orchid
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
SHOOKY
Yarn: Toasted Almond, Brown, Black
Fluff: Brown, White
BODY
Using Toasted Almond
Chain 4+1
Rnd 1: sc 3, inc, turn, sc 3 (8)
R2: inc 2, sc, inc 3, sc, inc (14)
R3: R2 but replace “inc” with “[sc, inc]” (20)
R4: R2 but replace “inc” with “[sc 2, inc]” (26)
R10: R2 but replace “inc” with “[sc 2, dec]” (20)
R11: R2 but replace “inc” with “[sc, dec]” (14)
R12: R2 but replace “inc” with “dec” (8)
Needle felt shooky’s mouth with brown and white fluff
Sew shooky’s eyes and eyebrows with black yarn
ARMS
Using Brown
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using Brown
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
RJ
Yarn: White
Fluff: Black, Pink, White
BODY
Using White
Bobble: [y/o, pull up loop, pull through 2] repeat 4 times (5 loops), pull through all
R2: [bobble, 3 sc same st] repeat around (12 sts, 3 bobbles)
R3: [bobble, inc] repeat around (18 sts, 6 bobbles)
R4: [inc, sc, bobble] repeat around (24 sts, 6 bobbles)
R5: [bobble, sc] repeat 4 times, sc 6, [bobble, sc] repeat 5 times (24 sts, 9 bobbles)
R6: [sc, bobble] repeat 4 times, sc 6, [sc, bobble] repeat 5 times (24 sts, 9 bobbles)
Repeat R5-6 once more
R9: [bobble, sc] repeat around (24 sts, 12 bobbles)
R10: [dec, sc, bobble] repeat around (18 sts, 6 bobbles)

R11: [bobble, dec] repeat around (12 sts, 6 bobbles)
R12: [bobble, dec3tog] repeat around (6 sts, 3 bobbles)
Use white fluff to cover RJ’s face
Use black fluff to make face details
Use pink fluff for blush
VAN
Yarn: White, Greybeard, Black
Fluff: Black
BODY
Using White
R2: inc around (12)
Change to Greybeard
R13: dec around (6)
HAT
Using Greybeard
Rnd 1: in magic circle sc 2, switch to White, sc 2, sl st with grey (4)

R2: sc, inc, switch to white, sc, inc, sl st with grey (6)
Leave white and grey tail for sewing
Sew Van’s face using black yarn – use black fluff for circle
ARMS
Using White for left arm, Greybeard for right arm
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
LEGS
Using White for left leg, Greybeard for right leg
Chain 1+1
Rnd 1: sc 4 (4)
D. We Bare Bears ( Panda) by amiguruku

Body
Start with white
R1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R5-R7: sc around (24)
R8 : (sc 7, inc) x 3 (27)

Change to grey
R9-R10: sc around (27)
Change to white
R11-R12 : sc around (27)
Change to grey
R13 : sc around (27)
R14: [sc, dec] x 9 (18)
R15: [dec] x 9 (9)
R16: dec x 4, sc (5)
FO
Legs x 2
R1 : MR, 6 sc (6)
R2 : sc x 6 (6)
Arms x 2
R1 : Chain 3, sc start from the second chain from hook (2)
Ears x 2
R1 : MR, 3 sc
Assembling
Place eyes between R7-R8, 5 stitch apart, place mouth between the eyes
Place blushes below the eyes

Sew arms between R9-R10
Sew legs at the grey part on the bottom
E. Bear Amigurumi by Vii Crochet yt

SC ( SINGLE CROCHET )
HDC ( HALF DOUBLE CROCHET )
DC ( DOUBLE CROCHET )
Project material
( 50G MILK COTTON YARN, 4PLY )
Brown Yarn White Yarn
2.5mm Hook Size
Bear Button Eyes
Bear Head
R1 -make a magic ring -10 sc into the magic ring -pull the string -slip stitch
R2 ( increase stitch ) -Chain 1 -Make 2 sc into each stitch around ( 20 sc total ) -slip stitch
R3 ( increase stitch ) -Chain 1 -1,2,1,2 sc around ( 30 sc total ) -slip stitch
R4-R10 ( 30 sc total ) -Chain 1 -1 sc into each stitch around -slip stitch
R11-12 ( Decrease stitch ) ( R11 20 sc total ) ( R12 14sc total ) -chain 1 ( count as 1st sc ) -make 1 sc into
the first stitch -skip 1 stitch -make 1 sc into stitch 3&4 ( 1,1,skip 1 stitch, 1,1, repeat the process around )
Bear Ear
R1 -Make a magic ring -chain 1 -6 sc into the magic ring -pull the string -slip stitch
R2 *chain 1 *2 sc into each stitch around *slip stitch
R3-R4 *chain 1 *1 sc into each stitch around *slip stitch
Bear Nose
*Make a magic ring *chain 1 *make 10 sc into the magic ring *pull the string *slip stitch
Bear Body
R1 *make a magic ring *chain 1 *make 12 sc into the magic ring *slip stitch
R2 *chain 1 *make 2 sc into each stitch around *slip stitch
R3 *chain 1 *1,2,1,2 sc around *slip stitch
R4-10 *chain 1 *1 sc into each stitch around *slip stitch
R11- 12 ( Decrease stitch ) -chain 1 -make 1 sc into the first stitch -skip 1 stitch -make 1 sc into stitch 3&4
( 1,1,skip 1 stitch, 1,1, repeat the process around )
Bear Hand
R1 *make a magic ring *chain 1 *make 8 sc into the magic ring *pull the string *slip stitch
R2-6 *chain 1 *make 1 sc into each stitch *slip stitch
Bear Leg
R1 *make a magic ring *chain 1 *make 10 sc into the magic ring *pull the string *slip stitch
R2-4 *chain 1 *Make 1 sc into each stitch around *slip stitch

Crochet Octopus by Croby Patterns
YARN: For this pattern, I was using some DK weight 100% cotton. Perfect for this project is a DK weight
yarn from Paintbox cotton collection. You can find it HERE. The yarn is great for amigurumi toys because
it’s easy to work with, the strand is nicely twisted and it’s available in 56 shades.
CROCHET HOOK: I was using a 3 mm or D and 3.5 mm or E/4 crochet hook (HERE!).
OTHER: And of course a yarn needle (HERE!), stitch markers (HERE!), a pair of scissors (HERE!), two
safety eyes and a small amount of synthetic stuffing (HERE!).
st/sts – stitch/stitches
ch – chain (VIDEO)
sc – single crochet (VIDEO)
sc2tog – single crochet two together
sc3tog – single crochet three together
ss – slip stitch
hdc – half double crochet (VIDEO)
hdc3tog – half double crochet three together
dc – double crochet (VIDEO)
dc3tog – double crochet three together
BLO – work into back loops only
FLO – work into front loops only
The pattern is worked in continues rounds.
How to read a pattern:
If the number is written before the stitch 3 hdc work 3 hdc into the same stitch. If the number is written
after the stitch hdc 3, work hdc into next 3 stitches.
Repeat what is written in the () as many times as it’s written right after the (). For an example: Repeat (2
hdc, hdc 1) 5 times. It means that you have to repeat the sequence work 2 hdc sts into the same st, 1
hdc into the next one 5 times. And you will get 5 additional stitches by doing that.
Use stitch markers to mark your first stitch of each round.
Skill level: Easy

AMIGURUMI OCTOPUS CROCHET PATTERN
The octopus is made in three simple steps. We will start with the main part which is the body. From
there on, we will continue and give the octopus 8 long arms. And our last step will be, to make two tiny
eyes and attach them to the body.
MAIN PART
Take the yarn and the hook (3.0 mm) and create a magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc sts into the magic ring. = 6 sts.
Round 2: Work 2 sc into next 6. = 12 sts.
Round 3: Repeat (2 sc , sc 1) 6 times. = 18 sts.
Round 4: Repeat (2 sc, sc 2) 6 times. = 24 sts.
Round 5: Repeat (2 sc, sc 3) 6 times. = 30 sts.
Round 6 – 12: Sc 30 sts. = 30 sts.
Begin stuffing the head/main part.
Round 13: Repeat (sc 3, sc2tog) 6 times. = 24 sts.
Round 14: Sc 24. =24 sts.
Round 15: Repeat (sc 2, sc2tog) 6 times. = 18 sts.
Round 16 – 17: Sc 18 = 18 sts.
If you are using safety eyes with a screw and a stopper for this project, please jump to the “EYES” part
and read the instructions under number 3.
Round 18: BLO! (very important!) Repeat (sc 1, sc2tog) 6 times. = 12 sts.
Continue stuffing the head.
From now on work in both loops.
Round 19: Repeat sc2tog 6 times. = 6 sts.
Cut the yarn and fasten off, but leave a long tail for sewing. Thread the needle, use the yarn tail, and join
all the remaining sts together. Make sure you entirely close the opening so the stuffing will not start
coming out of the octopus.
Now go back to round 18. There are 18 undone front loops that we will use as a base for our octopus
arms.
Round 18: FLO! Sc 18. = 18 sts.

From now on work in both loops.
Round 19: Repeat (sc 2, 2 sc) 6 times. = 24 sts.
Round 20: Repeat (sc 5, 2 sc) 4 times. = 28 sts.
Round 21: Repeat (sc 6, 2 sc) 4 times. Ss into the last one.
ARMS
Arm 1: Ch 29. Turn and start in the 2nd chain from the hook. Continue working into the chain Ss 2. Sc 1.
3 sc. Sc 2. Hdc3tog. Hdc 5. 4 hdc. Hdc 3. Dc 4. Dc3tog. Dc 3. Skip 2 sts on the octopus body. 1 ss into next
two sts.
Arm 2: Ch 29. Turn and start in the 2nd chain from the hook. Continue working into the chain Ss 2.
Repeat (2 sc) 6 times. Hdc 3. Repeat hdc3tog 4 times. Dc 5. Skip 2 sts on the octopus body. 1 ss into next
two sts.
Hdc 2. Repeat (2 hdc) 4 times. Hdc into next 6. Repeat hdc3tog 2 times. Dc into next 5. Skip 2 sts on the
octopus body. 1 ss into next two sts.
Repeat sc3tog 2 times. Hdc into next 4. 2 hdc into next 3. Hdc 5. Dc3tog. Dc 2. Skip 2 sts on the octopus
body. 1 ss into next two sts.
Repeat (2 sc) 3 times. Hdc3tog. Hdc 3. Repeat (2 hdc) 3 times. Hdc into next 5. Dc3tog. Dc 3. Skip 2 sts on
the octopus body. 1 ss into next two sts.
Hdc 2. Repeat ( 2 hdc) 4 times. Hdc 5. Dc 2. Skip 2 sts on the octopus body. 1 ss into next two sts.
2 sc. 3 hdc. Hdc 2. Hdc2tog 3 times. Dc into next 3. Skip 2 sts on the octopus body. 1 ss into next two sts.
Repeat sc3tog 2 times. Hdc into next 4. 2 hdc into next 3. Hdc 5. Dc3tog. Dc 2. Skip 2 sts on the octopus
body. 1 ss into the last one.
Leave longer tail for sewing. Take the yarn needle and sew all small parts between skipped stitches and
the last dc stitches on the arms. Fasten off a hide all the yarn tails between the sts
EYES
Create an eye base from the yarn. Take the 3.5 mm crochet hook and create a magic ring. Work in
rounds.
Round 1: Ch 1. Work 6 hdc sts into the magic ring. Join the round with a ss.
Close the magic ring, fasten off and hide all the tails. Attach the eyes to the eye bases.
There are two ways how to attach the eye bases and the eyes to the main part/body.
You can use a hot glue gun.
You can sew the base to the main part with a small amount of yarn and a needle.
This third option will work only if you are still working on the body and the eyes you will attach are the
amigurumi eyes with a screw on one end and the plastic stopper that prevents eyes from falling apart. In
that case, create two eye basis first, then attach them to the body with the eye screw going through the
eye base first then push it through the stitch on the main part. I would go with round 17. Attach the
stopper. (TIP: I would take a hot glue gun and attach the small amount of glue around the stopper, so I
can be sure the eyes are not going

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A.

Crochet Diddy Hedgehog by Sarah Lyons

Using larger hook and body colour:

5sc in adjustable loop – do not tighten yet

Make a bobble in the loop as follows:

Yarn over and pull through the next sc as usual (3 on hook)

Yarn over and pull through the same hole (5 on hook)

Yarn over and pull through the same hole (6 on hook)

Yarn over and pull through the same hole (7 on hook)

Yarn over and pull through the 6 loops on the hook

Make sure the bobble is pushed to the front every time

Tighten the starting loop as usual = 5sc and 1 bobble

2sc in each sc of the round (and the bobble) = 12sc

(1sc, bobble) 6 times = 6sc and 6 bobbles

2sc in each = 24sc

(1sc, bobble) 12 times = 12sc and 12 bobbles

(1sc, bobble) 12 times = 12sc and 12 bobbles

**this is the end of the bobbles**

1sc (to finish off the last bobble)

Chain 2 (counts as 1HDC)

Change to smaller hook

(2tog, 6sc) 3 times

(2tog, 5sc) 3 times

6sc, 2tog, 4sc, dec, 4sc

6sc, 2tog, 3sc, decrease, 3sc

6sc, 2tog, 2sc, decrease,2sc

6sc, 2tog, 1sc, decrease,1sc

6sc, 2tog, 2tog

B. Amigurumi Crochet Octopus Pattern

1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)

TOP OF LEGS AND BODY

Flip leg section over.

1. [6sc, dec over leg gaps] x8 (56)

2. [5sc, dec] x8 (48)

3. [dec] x24 (24)

4. [2sc, dec] x6 (18)

Lightly stuff the legs (legs only!)

5. [2sc, inc] x6 (24)

6. [3sc, inc] x6 (30)

7. 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)

8. [5sc, inc] x6 (42)

9. 3sc, inc, [6sc, inc] x5, 3sc (48)

10. [7sc, inc] x6 (54)

11. 4sc, inc, [8sc, inc] x5, 4sc (60)

12. sc in each stitch around (60)

13. sc in each stitch around (60)

14. sc in each stitch around (60)

16. sc in each stitch around (60)

17. sc in each stitch around (60)

18. sc in each stitch around (60)

19. sc in each stitch around (60)

20. sc in each stitch around (60)

21. sc in each stitch around (60)

Place safety eyes between Rows 16 & 17, 10 stitches apart

22. 4sc, dec, [8sc, dec] x5, 4sc (54)

23. [7sc, dec] x6 (48)

24. 3sc, dec, [6sc, dec] x5, 3sc (42)

25. [5sc, dec] x6 (36)

26. 2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)

27. [3sc, dec] x6 (24)

28. [2sc, dec] x6 (18)

Stuff the body

29. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)

this is the end of the bobbles