EVOLUTION OF THE BASIC PENCIL SKIRT

Flared 1. Flared 2. Flared 3.

MODELLISTICA DONNA 1_DOCENTE: RENZO CATONI

Flared skirt 1

To make flared skirt 1, start with the basic pencil skirt.

Use tissue paper to mark the size 44 basic pencil skirt, leaving at least 8 cm between the
back and front sides.
Extend the hem line (skirt bottom) on the side of the hip, from a minimum of 1.5 cm to a
maximum of 3 cm. Join the new bottom width point with the most prominent part of the
curve of the pelvis.
Shape the hemline to the length of the skirt from the centres towards the hips.

linea bacino linea bacino

centro davanti drittofilo

centro dietro drittofilo

linea fianco

linea fianco

linea ginocchio linea ginocchio

lunghezza totale gonna lunghezza totale gonna

Flared skirt 2

To construct flared skirt 2, start with the basic pencil skirt.

Use tissue paper to mark the size 44 basic pencil skirt.
Balance the measurements at the back and front in terms of width and length.

Example:
width at the back 2 cm + 3 cm width at the front = 5 cm : 2 = 2,5 cm
Back length 12 cm + 9 cm Front length = 21 cm : 2 = 10.5 cm

In this way we will have two equal squares which will allow us to have the same flaring
value for the back and the front.
Extend the square cut lines up to the hem, cut along them and, pivoting on the vertexes,
close them completely to obtain the flare.
Place half the value of the flare obtained on the side of the skirt.
Shape the hem, following the length of the skirt from the centres towards the hips.
Check the waistband to ensure that the total measurement has not changed and to assess
the harmony of the curve.
 linea bacino

centro davanti drittofilo

linea bacino
anco
linea fi

linea ginocchio
centro dietro drittofilo

lunghezza totale gonna

anco
linea fi

linea ginocchio

lunghezza totale gonna

Flared skirt 3

For the construction of the flared skirt 3 start with the basic pencil skirt.
Using the tissue, mark the basic tube skirt size 44 and divide the pelvis line into three
equal parts for the back and three equal parts for the front.
On the points obtained construct two squaring lines with the pelvis and extend upwards.
On the new lines, at the waist, create four fills (1 cm in total for the back and 1 cm in total
for the front), each 0.5 cm wide and 10.5 cm long. The length is determined by balancing
the existing fills (12 cm back + 9 cm front = 21 cm : 2 = 10.5 cm).
Cut along the squaring lines starting from the bottom of the skirt up to the vertices of the
four drawn footage and pivot to close them completely to obtain the flaring.
Place half of the flare value obtained on the side of the skirt.
The value of the basic footage at the waist will be reduced by 1 cm at the back and 1 cm at
the front (the footage at the front will be 2 cm wide, the footage at the back 1 cm wide, in
order to keep the waist measurement unchanged with the introduction of the 4 new
footage of 0.5 cm width each).
Shape the new pelvis line and adjust the length of the skirt from the centres towards the
hips.
Test the waist to ensure that the total measurement has not changed and for the harmony
of the curve.
 linea bacino linea bacino

centro davanti drittofilo

centro dietro drittofilo

linea ginocchio linea ginocchio

linea fianco

linea fianco

lunghezza totale gonna lunghezza totale gonna

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