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Experimental Dermatology 2005: 14: 498–508 Copyright # Blackwell Munksgaard 2005

Blackwell Munksgaard . Printed in Singapore


EXPERIMENTAL DERMATOLOGY
ISSN 0906-6705

Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer


to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide
is reversible
Greatens A, Hakozaki T, Koshoffer A, Epstein H, Schwemberger S, Amanda Greatens1,2, Tomohiro
Babcock G, Bissett D, Takiwaki H, Arase S, Wickett RR, Boissy RE. Hakozaki3,4, Amy Koshoffer1,
Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and Howard Epstein1, Sandy
niacinamide is reversible. Schwemberger5,6, George
Exp Dermatol 2005: 14: 498–508. # Blackwell Munksgaard, 2005 Babcock5,6, Donald Bissett7,
Hirotsugu Takiwaki4, Seiji
Abstract: Skin pigmentation results in part from the transfer of melanized
melanosomes synthesized by melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes. Arase4, R. Randall Wickett2 and
Plasma membrane lectins and their glycoconjugates expressed by these Raymond E. Boissy1
epidermal cells are critical molecules involved in this transfer process. In 1
Department of Dermatology, University of
addition, the derivative of vitamin B3, niacinamide, can inhibit Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH, USA;
2
melanosome transfer and induce skin lightening. We investigated the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences,
effects of these molecules on the viability of melanocytes and University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH, USA;
3
keratinocytes and on the reversibility of melanosome-transfer inhibition Research and Development Department, Procter
induced by these agents using an in vitro melanocyte–keratinocyte & Gamble Far East Inc., Kobe, Japan;
4
Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine,
coculture model system. While lectins and neoglycoproteins could induce University of Tokushima, Tokushima, Japan;
apoptosis in a dose-dependent manner to melanocytes or keratinocytes in 5
Department of Surgery, University of Cincinnati,
monoculture, similar dosages of the lectins, as opposed to Cincinnati, OH, USA;
neoglycoproteins, did not induce apoptosis to either cell type when treated 6
Shriners Hospitals for Children, Cincinnati, OH, USA;
7
in coculture. The dosages of lectins and niacinamide not affecting cell Skin Technology Division, Procter and Gamble,
viability produced an inhibitory effect on melanosome transfer, when used Cincinnati, OH, USA
either alone or together in cocultures of melanocytes–keratinocytes.
Cocultures treated with lectins or niacinamide resumed normal
melanosome transfer in 3 days after removal of the inhibitor, while Key words: Melanocyte, Pigmentation, Skin,
cocultures treated with a combination of lectins and niacinamide Complexion
demonstrated a lag in this recovery. Subsequently, we assessed the effect Dr Raymond Boissy
of niacinamide on facial hyperpigmented spots using a vehicle-controlled, Department of Dermatology
split-faced design human clinical trial. Topical application of niacinamide University of Cincinnati
resulted in a dose-dependent and reversible reduction in hyperpigmented PO Box 670592
lesions. These results suggest that lectins and niacinamide at Cincinnati, OH 45267-0592, USA
concentrations that do not affect cell viability are reversible inhibitors of e-mail: boissyre@ucmail.uc.edu
melanosome transfer. Accepted for publication 8 December 2004

Introduction
Skin coloration is a result of many complex pro- Several theories have been proposed to explain
cesses. Epidermal melanocytes synthesize pigmented this transfer process. These theories consist of: (a)
melanosomes that are subsequently transferred to release of melanosomes into the intercellular space,
and retained by the surrounding keratinocytes. with subsequent endocytosis by the keratino-
Normal skin coloration is a result of both efficient cytes; (b) cytophagocytosis, i.e. the phagocytosis
melanization of the melanosome by the melano- of dendritic tips of the melanocytes by keratino-
cyte and proper transfer to and receipt of the cytes; (c) direct inoculation of the melanosomes
melanosome in the keratinocyte (1,2). The process into the keratinocytes; or (d) transfer of melano-
of melanin production has been well studied, and somes via a communication conduit between the
the major enzymes involved in the melanization melanocytes and keratinocytes (5–8). These pro-
pathway have been identified (3,4). However, little cesses may not be mutually exclusive; transfer of
is known about the process of intercellular mela- melanosomes may occur through a combination
nosome transfer. of these mechanisms (6).

498
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes

The amount and regulation of melanosome cell types. We also examined the reversibility of
transfer contributes to the ultimate pigmentation melanosome transfer impeded by these com-
of human skin. Alterations in this melanosome- pounds both in a culture model and in a clinical
transfer process may be the basis for several pig- trial. Further insight into these compounds as well
mentary/complexion diseases and disorders. This as their underlying mechanism of action will indi-
is supported by several pigmentary disorders cate potential inhibitors and eventual stimulators
involving containment of the melanosome within to manipulate human skin pigmentation.
the melanocyte, such as hair-graying (9) and nevus
depigmentosus (10). Cutaneous hyperpigmenta-
tion occurs in numerous conditions such as aging Materials and methods
(11), pregnancy (12), postinflammation (13), and Cell cultures
scarring (14). Inhibition of melanosome transfer
Melanocytes and keratinocytes were obtained from Cascade Biolo-
by the protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) (15) gicals (Portland, OR, USA). Melanocytes were maintained in M154
or niacinamide (16) results in lightening of cuta- basal medium (Cascade Biologicals) and supplemented with 5%
neous pigmentation. In addition to skin health fetal bovine serum, 1% antibiotic/antimycotic (Gibco, Grand
issues related to altered pigmentation, a cosmetic Island, NY, USA), 1 mg/ml of transferrin, 1 mg/ml of vitamin E,
5 mg/ml of insulin, 0.5 ng/ml of basic fibroblast growth factor, 108 M
desire for light and even skin tone is prevalent in melanocyte-stimulating hormone, and 109 M endothelin-1 (all
many areas of the world, especially among Asian from Sigma Chemical Co., St Louis, MO, USA). Keratinocytes were
populations. Approximately 60% of Japanese maintained in M154 basal medium supplemented with keratinocyte
growth supplements (Cascade Biologicals) and 1% antibiotic/
women and 75% of Chinese women desire lighter antimycotic (Gibco). Cocultures of keratinocytes/melanocytes were
skin (16). Therefore, the process of melanosome established as previously described (22). In short, established cultures
transfer presents unique opportunities to ther- of keratinocytes and melanocytes were trypsinized, washed, and
apeutically and cosmetically influence human reseeded at a keratinocyte : melanocyte ratio of 10 : 1 in a media
containing equal parts of keratinocytes and melanocytes.
skin pigmentation.
Plasma membrane lectins and their correspond-
ing glycoconjugates, putatively expressed by mela- Test compounds
nocytes and keratinocytes, may play a critical role The lectins used in these experiments (and the corresponding
in melanosome transfer for a variety of reasons. carbohydrate moiety they bind to) consist of Narcissus pseudo-
These molecules are responsible for cell–cell recog- narcissus (NP) L5650 (a-D-mannose), Pisum sativum (PS) L5380
nition in general (17), and phagocytosis by macro- (a-mannose), Psophocarpus tetragonolobus (PT) L2138 (GalNAc,
phages in specific (18). Previous studies have gal), Lycopersicon esculentum (LE) L2886 (GalNAc), and Tetra-
gonolobus purpureas (TP) Lp254 (a-L-fucose). All lectins were
indicated increased production of these molecules
purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (St Louis, MO, USA).
in melanocytes after UVA irradiation (19), sug- The two neoglycoproteins used in these experiments (and the
gesting that they facilitate melanosome transfer. conjugate lectin they interact with) consist of a-1, 3a-1,6-manno-
In addition, symptoms of the rare metabolic dis- triose–bovine serum albumin (BSA) (N402) (Con A) and galac-
ease, carbohydrate-deficient glycoprotein syn- tose a-1,3-galactose–BSA (N403) (Euonymus europaeus). Both
neoglycoproteins were purchased from Calbiochem/Novabio-
drome type III, which alters carbohydrate moiety chem (La Jolla, CA, USA).
synthesis and processing, include pale and unpig- Niacinamide (nicotinic acid amide) was purchased from Sigma
mented skin (20). Most importantly, certain lectins Cell Culture.
and neoglycoproteins have been shown to impede
the melanosome-transfer process when used in a Apoptosis detection
coculture model system that recapitulates melano-
Cultures of melanocytes or keratinocytes and melanocyte/kera-
some transfer (21). These various lectins and neo- tinocyte cocultures were treated with test compound or vehicle [i.e.
glycoproteins interact with galactosyl, fucosyl, and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS)] alone, once or twice daily for
mannose residues (21) and had been previously 6 days and assayed for apoptosis/necrosis as described below.
implicated in studies of melanin transfer between Experiments were repeated three times with triplicate samples
per experiment. In experiments involving melanocyte–keratino-
transformed cells (19). However, it was unknown cyte cocultures, we developed a differential trypsinization proced-
whether these lectins or neoglycoproteins would ure whereby melanocytes and keratinocytes were separated at
have any negative effects on cell viability or the termination of the experiment and evaluated individually for
apoptosis (see Fig. 1a,b). In short, cocultures were treated briefly
whether the transfer inhibition would be perman- with 0.25% trypsin (approximately 3 min) to selectively remove
ent. In this study, we investigated the effect of the melanocytes. The remaining keratinocytes were obtained by
various concentrations of lectins, neoglycopro- further trypsinization.
teins, and niacinamide, a known skin-lightening Isolated cells were then processed for detection of non-viable
cells (i.e. cells in early and late stages of apoptosis and cells
agent (16), both alone and in combination, on undergoing necrosis) by flow cytometry using the Annexin V
melanocyte and/or keratinocyte viability and on apoptosis-detection kit (Trevigen, Gathersburg, MD, USA).
melanosome transfer between these two epidermal Counterstaining with propidium iodine (PI) was used to identify

499
Greatens et al.

a b groups of either 39 or 40 subjects. Most subjects presented with a


combination of slight-to-moderate solar lentigines, melasma, or
freckles on both sides of the face. All subjects were given basic
skin care products (facial cleanser, lotion, and sunscreen, none of
which contained skin-whitening ingredients) to use during the
first 16 weeks of the study. In a split-face design, Group 1
(n ¼ 39) utilized 5% niacinamide in a moisturizer to one side of
the face vs. the vehicle moisturizer (without niacinamide) to the
other side of the face and Group 2 (n ¼ 40) utilized 2% niacin-
amide moisturizer vs. the vehicle moisturizer. Subjects applied
their assigned test products to the assigned sides of their faces in
Figure 1. Differential trypsinization of melanocyte–keratinocyte a dosage-controlled manner (0.3 ml/application/entire half face)
cocultures. Melanocyte –keratinocyte cocultures (a) twice daily (morning and evening) for 8 weeks (treatment period).
demonstrating dendritic melanocytes (arrows) and keratinocytes The group that received 5% niacinamide (Group 1) was moni-
(arrowheads) were treated with 1% trypsin for approximately tored for an additional 34 weeks after the treatment period to
3 min after which (b) melanocytes were selectively detached and determine reversibility of the lightening effect (recovery period)
collected, while the remaining keratinocytes (arrowheads) were (n ¼ 37 completed). To confirm that no side effects occurred, a
subsequently re-trypsinized and collected. Bar ¼ 50 mm. dermatologist evaluated the subjects’ images captured at baseline
and at 8 and 42 weeks (Group 1). All subjects gave written
cells in late apoptosis and/or necrosis. Cells were analyzed for informed consent. The protocol had been approved by the reg-
Annexin V–fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) and propidium ulatory and safety review committee for human testing of The
iodide (PI) reactivity by flow cytometry using an EPICS XL Procter & Gamble Company (Kobe, Japan). All subjects
flow cytometer (Beckman Coulter, Hialeah, FL, USA). Data were given basic skin care products [facial cleanser, lotion, and
were analyzed using COULTER XL software (Coulter). sunscreen (SPF 15)], none of which contained skin-whitening
ingredient(s), to use during the first 16 weeks of the study, while
no instruction was provided during the remaining 26 weeks (for
Melanosome-transfer inhibition Group 1), i.e. they followed their normal skin care habits and
practices.
Transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes in cocultures
was evaluated as previously described (21). In short, melanocytes
were prelabeled with succinimidyl ester of carboxy fluorescein Image analysis of facial hyperpigmented spots
diacetate (CFDA) (Molecular Probes, Eugene, OR, USA) and
used to establish cocultures with keratinocytes. Cocultures were Facial hyperpigmented spot area on each side of the face was
treated with fresh media containing test compound or vehicle, i.e. objectively measured using a customized image analysis technique
PBS, every 12 or 24 h during the treatment period. Experiments similar to the one previously described (16,23). Specifically,
were repeated twice with triplicate samples per experiment. Fol- images of the right and left sides of each subject’s face were
lowing treatment, cells were prefixed in 4% paraformaldehyde, captured at baseline and at 4 and 8 weeks (also at 16, 26, and
permeabilized with fluorescence-activated cell-sorter-permeabiliz- 42 weeks for Group 1) by a high-resolution digital camera (Fuji
ing solution (FACS perm, Becton Dickinson, San Jose, CA, SC430 CCD Digital Camera) equipped with a cross-polarized
USA), and washed. The cells were then treated with a monoclonal filter (Tiffen glass polarizing filter and Kenko polarizing filter
mouse anticytokeratin primary antibody (1 : 300), washed, and for light source). Facial illumination was provided by National
incubated with goat antimouse IgG secondary antibody conju- fluorescence light Twin 1 (FPL27EX-N, 6200–6400 K) positioned
gated to phycoerythrin (PE) (Caltag, Burlingame, CA, USA) to the right and left sides of the camera to provide even lighting.
(1 : 10). Cells were postfixed in 1% paraformaldehyde and trans- Before image capture, subjects were equilibrated in a temperature-
fer quantitated by evaluating the mean CFDA fluorescence controlled room (24 + 2 C) for 30 min. At the 4-, 8-, 16-, 26-, and
(Mean X) in PE-positive keratinocytes in the presence or absence 42-week visits, accurate repositioning of the subjects was facili-
of inhibitor using an EPICS XL flow cytometer (Coulter Cyto- tated by comparing side by side the live image with the digitally
metry, Coulter). Data were analyzed using COULTER XL software. stored image obtained at baseline. The system was calibrated by
white balancing the camera each study day. Computer analysis of
the digital images allowed quantification of total area of hyper-
Description of statistics pigmented spots in the selected region of interest (around the
cheek to the temple) as a spot area fraction (percentage of total
To determine whether the test compound affected the treated cells spot area in the area of the selected region of interest).
as compared with control populations of cells/cocultures in a
statistically significant manner, we tested the population mean
and variance. We constructed a 100 99.5% confidence interval
for the mean. The relevant test statistic was Z, and this parameter
Visual assessment of hyperpigmented spot
was calculated for each test sample, compared to the control Subjective visual grading of the captured images was carried out
sample. Accordingly, P-values for each Z-statistic value were to compare pretreatment (baseline image) vs. post-treatment at
calculated. All P-values for the Z-statistic of the one-tailed test the 8-, 26-, and 42-week time points as previously described (16).
from each sample population were assessed for whether they were Briefly, paired blinded pre- and post-treatment images appeared
less than a ¼ 0.05. All calculations were performed using Micro- side by side randomly on the monitor. Eight treatment-blinded
soft Excel 2000 (Microsoft, Redmond, WA, USA). judges independently viewed pairs of images for each subject. The
judges indicated which of the two images had fewer areas of
Human clinical trial hyperpigmented spots around the eye and the cheek, then rated
the magnitude of the difference between images on a scale of 1–4:
A double-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled, split-face 1, I think there is a small difference; 2, I know there is a small
design human clinical study was performed from October 2002 difference; 3, I know there is a moderate difference; and 4, I know
through August 2003 (Kobe, Japan). Seventy-nine Japanese there is a big difference. There was no ‘no difference’ option to
women aged 28–54 years with multiple types of brown hyperpig- increase the sensitivity of the judges’ evaluations. The magnitude
mentation on both sides of the face were assigned to one of two rating was assigned a positive (þ) value when the post-treatment

500
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
was selected to have less hyperpigmented spots, while it was those previously demonstrated to reduce melano-
assigned a negative (–) value when the pretreatment was selected some transfer in cocultures of melanocytes and
to have less hyperpigmented spots. Thus, positive values indi-
cated efficacy and negative values indicated no efficacy. The keratinocytes (21) as well as concentrations that
mean ratings of the eight judges were used for the statistical were one-half and twice these reported concentra-
analysis. tions. Cells were then evaluated for Annexin V
and/or PI reactivity by flow cytometry as an indi-
Data analysis cator of non-viable cells. Cells negative for both
Image analysis data (hyperpigmented spot area fraction) were Annexin V–FITC and PI were considered healthy.
compared for the change from the baseline by a paired t-test at The data demonstrated that the viability in pure
each subsequent time point. Visual assessment data (the mean cultures of both melanocytes and keratinocytes
rating of the eight judges) were also compared by a paired t-test. was significantly compromised by certain lectins
Statistical significances were assessed for whether P-values were
less than a ¼ 0.05 or not. All calculations were performed using and neoglycoproteins generally in a dose-dependent
SPSS for Windows, version 11.5. manner (Fig. 2a,b). Of exception were the lectin
PT and the neoglycoprotein alpha-galactose,
which exhibited no deleterious effect on melano-
Results cytes at the dosages tested.
The negative effects of lectins and neoglycopro-
Effect of lectins and neoglycoproteins on cell teins on the viability of melanocytes or keratino-
viability of cultured melanocytes and keratinocytes cytes in monocultures were not apparent in
The viability of pure cultures of melanocytes or previous experiments where melanocytes and
keratinocytes exposed to lectins and neoglycopro- keratinocytes were grown in coculture (21). The
teins was assessed. Test concentrations included negative effects on cell viability by several lectins

Figure 2. Effect of lectins or neoglyco


proteins on viability of melanocyte or
keratinocyte monocultures or cocultures. a Melanocytes in monoculture b Keratinocytes in monoculture
120 120
Pure cultures of (a) melanocytes and (b)
keratinocytes were treated twice daily for 6 100 100
days with the various concentrations of
*
lectins and neoglycoproteins listed. Cells 80
* * 80
* * * *
*
were then assessed for viability as
* * **
described in Materials and methods. (a)
60 60
* *
All lectins and neoglycoproteins except PT ** * *
40 40
and alpha-galactose, respectively, exhibited ** **
a negative effect on the viability of isolated 20 20
* *
cultures of melanocytes in a dose- *
0 0
dependent manner. (b) All compounds
0
4.4
8.8
17.5
4.4
8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0

0
4.4
8.8
17.5

8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0
4.4

exhibited a negative effect on viability of Lectin (µg/ml) Lectin (µg/ml)

isolated cultures of keratinocytes in a dose- 120 c Melanocytes in coculture 140 d Keratinocytes in coculture
dependent manner. Cocultures were
treated twice a day for 6 days with the 100 * * 120

various concentrations of lectins and 100 *


*
* ** *
80
neoglycoproteins listed. Subsequently, (c) * *
melanocytes and (d) keratinocytes were * ** 80
60
isolated by differential trypsinization and *
60

assessed for viability as described in 40


40
Materials and methods. All lectins 20
20
exhibited no or minimal effect on cell
3.5 NA

3.5 NA

viability of either melanocytes or 0 0


0
4.4
8.8
17.5
4.4
8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8

0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0

0
4.4
8.8
17.5
4.4
8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8

0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0

keratinocytes, especially at the lowest


concentration tested, except for PT that Lectin (µg/ml) Lectin (µg/ml)

exhibited a significant negative effect on Control Psophocarpus tetragonolbus


keratinocyte viability at the lowest Lycopersicon esculentum
Narassus pseudonarcissus
concentration tested. In contrast, both
Tetragonolobus purpeas α-1,3 α-1,6-mannitrose–BSA
neoglycoproteins affected cell viability of
melanocytes and keratinocytes. Error bars Pisum sativum α-1,3-galactose–BSA

represent SD; asterisks represent P < 0.05. Highest relative concentration (mg/ml) of lectin allowing normal cell viability
Table presents the highest relative
concentration (mg/ml) of lectin allowing NP TP PS PT LE
M K M K M K M K M K
normal cell viability in comparison
Monoculture 4.4 <4.4 4.4 8.8 0.9 0.9 >3.5 >0.9 >3.5 >3.5
between monoculture and coculture
Coculture 4.4 >17.5 >17.5 >17.5 >3.5 >3.5 1.8 <0.9 1.8 1.8
conditions.

501
Greatens et al.

(TP, PS, and LE) on melanocytes and keratino- a


160
b
160
cytes in pure cultures were greatly reduced, and in 140
Monoculture
140
Monoculture

Percent healthy melanocytes


Coculture Coculture

Percent healthy kerotinocytes


some cases eliminated, for both cell types when the 120 120

cells existed in coculture (Fig. 2c,d). However, PT 100 100

was the one lectin that demonstrated a negative 80 80

effect on the viability of keratinocytes even at the 60 60

40 40
lowest concentration. Therefore, all lectins except 20 20
PT were combined at the highest concentration 0 0
(i.e. NP ¼ 4.4; TP ¼ 17.5; PS ¼ 0.5; LE ¼ 0.5 mg/ 0.0 0.1 1.0 10.0 100
Concentration (µM)
1000 0.0 0.1 1.0 10.0 100
Concentration (µM)
1000

ml) that did not affect the viability of melanocytes


and keratinocytes and were used as a cocktail. The Figure 3. Effect of niacinamide concentrations on viability of
cocktail of lectins was used to treat cocultures melanocyte or keratinocyte monocultures or cocultures. (a)
Melanocyte and (b) keratinocyte monocultures were treated
twice daily for 6 days and the viability of melano- twice daily for 6 days with niacinamide and assessed for various
cytes and keratinocytes subsequently assessed. The stages of apoptosis/necrosis using Annexin V binding and
percentage of viable melanocytes and keratino- propidium iodine staining as described in Materials and
cytes in cocultures was 97.6 + 1.8 and 94.3 + 1.5, methods. Concentrations up to 1.0 mM produced no effect on
the viability (i.e. apoptosis or necrosis) of melanocyte or
respectively. Therefore, no additional effects on keratinocyte monocultures. Cocultures were similarly treated
viability of either cell type were caused by the and (a) melanocytes and (b) keratinocytes separated by
treatment cocktail. differential trypsinization were assessed for viability.
Concentrations up to 1.0 mM also produced no effect on the
In contrast to the lectins, the neoglycoproteins viability (i.e. apoptosis or necrosis) of melanocyte or keratinocyte
continued to induce significant loss of cell viabil- monocultures. Error bars represent SD.
ity to both melanocytes and keratinocytes main-
tained in coculture (Fig. 2c,d). Interestingly, both
neoglycoproteins were less toxic to melanocytes in Melanosome-transfer inhibition
pure culture than melanocytes cultured with kera-
tinocytes. Conversely, both neoglycoproteins were To demonstrate melanosome-transfer inhibition,
more toxic to isolated keratinocytes than kerati- melanocytes were labeled with a succinimidyl
nocytes cultured with melanocytes. It is surprising ester of CFDA and cocultured with keratinocytes.
that neoglycoproteins are more cytotoxic to mel- These cocultures were assessed by confocal micro-
anocytes and keratinocytes than are lectins. Pos- scopy for CFDA transfer in the presence or
sibly, the binding efficiency and subsequent absence of 10 mM niacinamide after 6 days of
interference with the homeostasis/function of treatment (Fig. 4). Control cultures demonstrated
cell-surface glycoprotein is more effective with brightly fluorescing keratinocytes (arrowheads)
neoglycoprotein than lectins. Regardless, both within a colony of keratinocytes (star) that also
neoglycoproteins were excluded from subsequent contain CFDA-positive melanocytes (arrows)
experiments. (Fig. 4a). The corresponding differential contrast
image (Fig. 4b) demonstrates that the melanocytes
were darkly pigmented (arrows). In contrast, treat-
ment with niacinamide resulted in only weakly
Effect of niacinamide on cell viability of
fluorescing keratinocytes within a colony (star)
melanocytes and keratinocytes when maintained in
that also contained CFDA-positive melanocytes
coculture
of equal brightness as observed in the control
The viability of pure cultures of melanocytes cultures (arrows) (Fig. 4c). The corresponding dif-
exposed to niacinamide was assessed. Cells were ferential contrast image (Fig. 4d) demonstrated
cultured in the absence (i.e. vehicle alone) or pres- that the melanocytes were darkly pigmented
ence of 0.1, 1.0, 10.0, 100.0, and 1000.0 mM niacin- (arrows). These data indicate that a considerable
amide twice daily for 6 days. The data amount of the dye was transferred from melano-
demonstrated that the health of both cultured mel- cytes to keratinocytes in the control cocultures and
anocytes and keratinocytes was not compromised minimal dye was transferred in the presence of
at niacinamide concentrations tested (Fig. 3). We niacinamide.
next investigated the viability of each cell type to To quantitate melanosome-transfer inhibition,
treatment with niacinamide when existing together melanocytes were labeled with a succinimidyl
in coculture. All concentrations of niacinamide ester of CFDA, cocultured with keratinocytes,
tested did not compromise viability of either mela- and subsequently quantitated for dye transfer in
nocytes or keratinocytes when both cell types also the presence of inhibitors and concurrently
existed in coculture (Fig. 3). assessed for recovery of transfer after removal of

502
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes

Fluorescence DI-Contrast of treatment compounds for 3 days and then after


removal of treatment compounds for an additional
3 days as described in the table in Fig. 4. Cultures
were assessed for transfer at selected time points.
Control

These studies (Fig. 4) demonstrate that niacin-


amide inhibited melanosome transfer from the
melanocytes to the keratinocytes by 14% after
3 days of treatment, while our lectin cocktail
resulted in a 25% inhibition. Cocultures treated
with both the lectin cocktail and the niacinamide
resulted in a 29% inhibition of transfer. The inhi-
bitory effect of niacinamide and the lectin cocktail
Niacinamide

was reversible after 3 days, although the reversibil-


ity occurred more rapidly in the lectin-treated
cocultures. In contrast, the effect of treatment
with both lectins and niacinamide was not com-
pletely reversible in 3 days. In addition, the inhibi-
tory effect induced by the combination treatment
continued even after treatment ceased and was
Melanosome transfer inhibition and recovery using 10 µM niacinamide,
only 21% reversed after 3 days.
lectin Cocktail, or combination of both As previous experiments (21) did not indicate
Treatment group MnX fluorescence Inhibition (%) Recovery (%)
whether a twice-daily-dosing regimen was neces-
Control 1.19 ± 0.1 – – sary to achieve maximum melanosome-transfer
Niacinamide inhibition, we compared the effect of a single treat-
3 days 1.02 ± 0.05 14 –
1 day post 1.01 ± 0.06 14 0
ment to that of a twice-daily treatment for 6 days
2 day post 1.07 ± 0.02 10 29 with various concentrations of the test com-
3 day post 1.17 ± 0.04 2 86 pounds. Table 1 indicates a dose-dependent inhibi-
Lectin
tion of melanosome transfer with the compounds,
3 days 1.893 ± 0.02 25 –
1 day post 0.961 ± 0.06 18 28 and a greater inhibition was observed with the
2 day post 0.991 ± 0.01 17 29 twice-daily-dosing regimen.
3 day post 1.17 ± 0.04 2 92
Both
3 days 0.961 ± 0.06 19 – Human clinical trial
1 day post 0.85 ± 0.02 29 –14
2 day post 0.952 ± 0.06 20 –1.5
3 day post 0.01 ± 0.02 15 21
We next assessed the dose-dependent and reversi-
bility effect of melanosome-transfer inhibition on
in vivo using hyperpigmented facial spots. We
Figure 4. Cocultures of carboxy fluorescein diacetate (CFDA)-
labeled melanocytes and unlabeled keratinocytes were treated twice chose to assess niacinamide, which has demon-
daily for 6 days with vehicle only (a, b) or 10.0 mM niacinamide (c, d). strated effective percutaneous absorption (16), as
After 6 days, cocultures were viewed with fluorescence (a, c) or opposed to the lectins, which because of their
differential interference (DI) contrast (b, d) confocal microscopy relatively high molecular weights (i.e. between 26
simultaneously. (a) Control cocultures containing brightly
fluorescing keratinocytes (arrowheads) within a colony (star) that and 71 kDa) putatively would have poor percuta-
also contained CFDA-positive melanocytes (arrows). (b) Darkly neous absorption.
pigmented melanocytes (arrows) were apparent in the corresponding Image analysis results of the percentage change
DI contrast image. (c) In contrast, treatment with niacinamide
results in only weakly fluorescing keratinocytes within a colony (star)
from baseline in hyperpigmented spot area
that also contains CFDA-positive melanocytes of equal brightness
as observed in the control cultures (arrows). (d) The corresponding Table 1. Assessment of once vs. twice-daily treatment of inhibitors on
DI contrast image demonstrates that the melanocytes remain darkly melanosome transfer
pigmented. Table presents melanosome-transfer inhibition and
recovery using niacinamide (10.0 mM) and/or the lectin cocktail. Sample Inhibition (%)
Cocultures were treated for 3 days with inhibitor and assessed for
transfer as described in Materials and methods at the end of the 3-day Lectin 1 day 10
treatment period and daily for an additional 3 days after termination Lectin 2 day 33
of treatment with inhibitors. 0.1 mM niacinamide 1 day 0
0.1 mM niacinamide 2 day 20
1.0 mM niacinamide 1 day 16
inhibitor by flow cytometry. Melanocytes labeled 1.0 mM niacinamide 2 day 28
10 mM niacinamide 1 day 21
with CFDA were cocultured with keratinocytes 10 mM niacinamide 2 day 32
and initially maintained in the presence or absence

503
Greatens et al.

fraction were assessed after 4 and 8 weeks of treat- ment was stopped at week 8. Specifically, image
ment with either 2 or 5% niacinamide (Fig. 5a,b). analysis results of the percentage change from
After both 4 and 8 weeks of treatment, the side of baseline in spot area fraction were assessed at
the face receiving niacinamide demonstrated a weeks 16, 26, and 42 (i.e. 8, 18, and 34 weeks
higher hyperpigmented spot-reduction efficacy vs. post-treatment, respectively) (Fig. 5e). After the
vehicle for both concentrations; however, only 5% 18-week regression period, the spot-reduction effi-
niacinamide exhibited significant differences at cacy of 5% niacinamide was reduced from D4.7%
both time points. Visual grading performed on (at 8 weeks, significant difference vs. vehicle) to
test subjects at the 8-week time point also demon- D2.8% (at 26 weeks, no significant difference vs.
strated that 5% niacinamide treatment had signif- vehicle), and had leveled off through 42 weeks (no
icantly higher hyperpigmented spot-reduction significant difference vs. vehicle). Visual grading
efficacy vs. vehicle control (Fig. 5c,d), while 2% performed on test subjects also demonstrated
niacinamide treatment did not (Fig. 5c). These that regression from the 5% niacinamide
data confirm a dose–response effect in hyperpig- treatment resulted in no significant difference vs.
mented spot reduction by niacinamide. In vehicle at both the 26- and 42-week time points
addition, visual assessment of captured images by (Fig. 5f). After 18 weeks of regression, the spot-
a dermatologist confirmed that there was no side reduction effect of 5% niacinamide had regressed
effect due to niacinamide such as hypopigmenta- from D0.33 (at 8 weeks, significant difference vs.
tion or erythema after 8 weeks of treatment for all vehicle) to D0.24 (at 26 weeks, no significant dif-
subjects. ference vs. vehicle), and continued to regress to
Image capture was continued in the group that D0.12 at the 42-week time point (no significant
received 5% niacinamide (Group 1) after treat- difference vs. vehicle). In addition, visual assess-
Figure 5. Dose response of niacinamide
spot-reduction efficacy as assessed by
image analysis and visual grading plus
reversibility of 5 % niacinamide
a b hyperpigmented spot-reduction efficacy.
Group 1: Effect of 5% niacinamide moisturizer on Group 2: Effect of 2% niacinamide moisturizer on
facial hyperpigmented spot area facial hyperpigmented spot Area
Percentage change of hyperpigmented
4% 4% spot area fractions from baseline for (a)
5% and (b) 2% niacinamide and vehicle-
Percent change of spot area fraction from

Percent change of spot area fraction from

2% 2%
Week of use Week of use treated sides of the face during treatment
0% 0%
0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 period of 8 weeks as assessed by image
–2% –2% analysis. Asterisks indicate significant
difference vs. vehicle at each
baseline

baseline

–4% –4%

–6% –6%
subsequent time point (*P < 0.05,
**P < 0.01). 5% niacinamide reduced
–8% * –8%
spot area fraction vs. vehicle by 4.4%
–10% –10% (P < 0.01), while 2% niacinamide did by
–12% Vehicle –12% Vehicle 2.6% at 8-week time point, indicating a
**
–14%
5% Niacinamide 2% Niacinamide dose dependency of niacinamide effect.
–14%
(c) Average of visual grading for the area
c Visual assessment of niacinamide effect on of hyperpigmented spots from baseline
hyperpigmented spot at 8-week time point d
1
for 5 and 2% niacinamide and vehicle-
Average of grading (–4 to +4: the
higher the more spot reduced)

0.9 Vehicle
treated sides of the face at the end of the
0.8 Niacinamide 8-week treatment period. Asterisks
0.7
0.6
indicate significant difference vs. vehicle
0.5 (*P < 0.05). (d) Representative facial
0.4
images of 5% niacinamide treatment of
0.3
0.2 the face at week 0, 4, and 8. (e)
0.1 Percentage change of hyperpigmented
0
2% 5% Week 0 Week 4 Week 8 spot area fractions from baseline for 5%
Niacinamide
niacinamide and vehicle-treated sides of
e f the face during treatment period of 8
Regression of 5% niacinamide spot reduction effect Regression of 5% niacinamide spot reduction effect
weeks and the regression period of 34
Percent change of spot area fraction from

by image analysis by visual assessment


Average of grading (–4 to +4; the

1.2
higher the more spot reduced)

0%
0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40
1
weeks. Asterisks indicate significant
Week of use
–5%
* difference (*P < 0.05, **P < 0.01). (f)
0.8
5% Niacinamide
Vehicle
Average of visual grading for the area
* of hyperpigmented spots from baseline
baseline

–10% 0.6

** 0.4 for 5% niacinamide and vehicle-treated


–15% 5% Niacinamide
0.2 Vehicle sides of the face at the end of the 8-week
* Weeks of use treatment period plus the 34-week
–20%
0
0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 regression period (i.e. 42 weeks).
–25%
Treatment period Recovery period
Treatment period Recovery period Asterisks indicate significant difference
vs. vehicle (*P < 0.05).

504
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes

ment by a dermatologist confirmed that there was that functions as part of coenzyme I (nicotinamide–
no side effect due to niacinamide such as hypopig- adenine dinucleotide, NAD) and coenzyme II
mentation of erythema after 34 weeks of the (reduced form of NADP) (29,30) and is involved
recovery period for Group 1. in over 200 enzymatic reactions (31). In the skin,
niacin can act as an anti-inflammatory agent in acne
(32), as an antioxidant preventing photoimmuno-
Discussion
suppression and photocarcinogenesis (33), and a
The molecular mechanisms involved in the inter- stimulator for intracellular lipid synthesis (34).
cellular transfer process of melanosomes from However, the molecular mechanism of the inhibi-
melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes may be tory effect of niacinamide or melanosome transfer is
harnessed for the amelioration of skin pigmentary unknown and requires further exploration.
disorders and to develop novel and effective means Indeed lectins, neoglycoproteins, and niacin-
to lighten skin coloration. Initial events in melano- amide present interesting molecules that may mod-
some transfer most certainly involve recognition ulate skin pigmentation. However, it was
between melanocytes and keratinocytes. The exact unconfirmed in earlier studies whether the skin-
mechanisms facilitating this interaction are cur- lightening effect induced by these agents was a
rently unknown. Recently, it has been well demon- result of apoptotic events occurring in the kerati-
strated that the PAR-2 on keratinocytes regulates nocytes and/or melanocyte, as opposed to actual
skin pigmentation (24) by increasing the phagocy- inhibition of melanosome transfer. Our initial
tic activity of the keratinocyte (15,25). In addition, results demonstrated that concentrations pre-
PAR-2 expression on keratinocytes can be regu- viously demonstrated to inhibit melanosome
lated by ultraviolet light to increase melanosome transfer could induce dose-dependent apoptosis
transfer (26). in pure cultures of melanocytes and keratinocytes
Less-defined endogenous lectin receptors and (Figs 1c,d and 2a,b). However, we had not
their glycoconjugate ligands also appear to be observed any microscopic evidence of these apop-
involved in melanosome transfer (27). Initial stud- totic effects using these concentrations of inhibi-
ies demonstrated that melanosome transfer tors in our coculture model system (personal
between human melanoma cells and squamous observations). Therefore, we tested the apoptotic
cell carcinoma-derived keratinocytes could be effect of these agents on both keratinocytes and
mediated by certain lectins and neoglycoproteins melanocytes when existing together in coculture
(19). Recent studies have demonstrated that the (Fig. 2c,d). The apoptotic effects observed in cul-
addition of these agents to cocultures of normal, tures of isolated melanocytes or keratinocytes
untransformed human melanocytes and keratino- were, in most cases, greatly reduced, or completely
cytes could also downregulate melanosome trans- eliminated, when the same concentrations of nia-
fer (21). In addition, it has been demonstrated that cinamide or lectins were tested on melanocytes or
exposure of melanoma cells to UV irradiation keratinocytes existing in coculture (Fig. 2c,d). This
results in the upregulation of these membrane lec- suggests that cell-survival factors, produced by one
tins and neoglycoproteins (27). Therefore, lectins cell type and utilized by the other, may make both
and their glycoconjugate ligands are excellent can- cell types more tolerant to stressful stimuli. Many
didate molecules involved in melanosome transfer cytokines, produced by epidermal cells such as
for a variety of reasons. These molecules have been endothelin-1 (35), insulin (36), transferrin (37),
well studied for their role in numerous cellular and basic fibroblast growth factor (38) may help
processes, including endocytosis, intracellular traf- give cells added resistance. These compounds are
ficking, and cell-to-cell recognition (17). present in conditioned media, often added to
Niacinamide (28), also called nicotinamide or slowly proliferating cell monocultures in our
3-pyridine carboxamide, is the physiologically laboratory. Alternately, cell–cell contact between
active amide of niacin, vitamin B3. It has multiple melanocytes and recipient keratinocytes might
medicinal effects on the skin, including anti- simply occupy receptors or molecules recognized
inflammation, antioxidation, prevention of photo- by the test inhibitors and/or alter gene expression
immunosuppression, and increasing intercellular rendering cells more resistant to the apoptotic
lipid synthesis (25). The lightening of skin color effects of the test compounds. These results also
has also been attributed to niacinamide. Recently, suggest that the lectins and their glycoconjugates
we have demonstrated that niacinamide effectively responsible for cell-to-cell interactions and that
inhibits melanosome transfer by up to 68% in an play a vital role in the melanosome-transfer pro-
in vitro coculture model system (16). Niacinamide cess may also aid in the cell tolerance to the
is a biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) inhibitory compounds. In addition, there was no

505
Greatens et al.

negative effect on cell viability induced by com- resulted in a normalization of hyperpigmented


bining the lectins in a cocktail. In contrast, all facial spots toward the vehicle control. These clin-
concentrations of neoglycoproteins resulted in ical results are consistent with the coculture results
compromised viability to melanocytes and and suggest that the inhibition of melanosome
keratinocytes whether cultured in isolation or in transfer by niacinamide is reversible.
cocultures (Fig. 2c,d). In this clinical trial, reduction of hyperpigmented
After effective and safe concentrations of niacin- spots on the vehicle-treated sides of the subjects’
amide and lectins were determined, we then faces showed a somewhat different pattern between
assessed the reversibility of these agents on the Groups 1 and 2. This fluctuation speaks to the
inhibition of melanosome transfer. As previously variation between groups of subjects when the
stated, we had shown that both niacinamide and base size is relatively small. Actually, statistical
our lectin cocktail were effective in inhibiting the test (Student’s t-test) between the two vehicle
transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to ker- groups revealed no significant differences
atinocytes (16,21). In addition, dosing the cocul- (P > 0.1) at both 4- and 8-week time points, while
tures twice a day vs. once a day was more effective significant correlations were observed on the reduc-
in inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes from the tion efficacy between paired treatments (niacina-
melanocytes to the keratinocytes in coculture. mide vs. Vehicle) in both groups.
It was unknown whether inhibition by niacin- In the clinical study, we had anticipated that the
amide or lectins was permanent and possibly hyperpigmented spot reduction observed in the
resulting in a toxic effect or reversible and able to 8-week treatment phase would have regressed back
resume melanosome transfer after removal of the to the baseline level by the week 16 time point
inhibitory agents. To address this, we investigated (8 weeks of niacinamide treatment followed by
the residual effect of lectins and niacinamide after 8 weeks without niacinamide). But at the 16-week
their removal from the melanocyte–keratinocyte assessment, regression had not occurred. This was
cocultures. Cocultures treated with niacinamide, likely due to the continued usage of sunscreen pro-
our lectin cocktail, or both were then assayed by duct during the 8–16-week time period. To ensure
flow cytometry for inhibition of melanosome that the affected melanocytes were still responsive
transfer as compared with the untreated control. (i.e. ensure that a persistent or permanent
Cocultures treated with each inhibitor or both hypopigmentary effect had not been induced), the
were assayed after 3 days of treatment and com- clinical study was extended (without provided sunsc-
pared to the untreated control. Subsequently, sam- reen) to follow these subjects for an extended time
ples were treated with inhibitors for 3 days and period. Thus, after week 16, subjects were not
then maintained in the absence of the compound instructed to use sunscreen but rather were allowed
for 1, 2, or 3 days to assess the reversibility of to follow their normal skin care habits and practices.
inhibition. Results demonstrated the following: We observed that with their normal sun exposure
(a) the effect of niacinamide and the lectin cocktail habits during the ensuing 6-month (26-week) spring-
were significant, and the inhibitory effects were summer season, the reduction in hyperpigmented
reversible after 3 days, although the reversibility spots had regressed back to baseline. Therefore,
appears to happen more rapidly in the lectin- the reduction in spots was a reversible effect and
treated cocultures; (b) the effects of treatment not due to the induction of a hypopigmentary effect.
with both lectins and niacinamide are not comple- Vehicle-treated sides of the faces also demon-
tely reversible in 3 days; and (c) the effects caused strated a reduction of hyperpigmented spots from
by the combined treatment appeared to persist baseline (October) to week 26 (May). This spot
even after removal of the test compounds. It is reduction is at least partially attributed to the
interesting to note the increased inhibition in the instruction to strictly use the provided sunscreen
coculture treated with both the lectin cocktail and during 0–16 weeks (fall-winter). As noted above,
the niacinamide for 3 days and assayed after 1 day no sunscreen product was provided later in the
with no treatment. Additionally, the transfer study (16–42 weeks), and thus the spot reduction
recovery after 3 days was only 21%. associated with vehicle þ sunscreen use also
The skin- lightening effect of niacinamide on regressed to the baseline by week 42, likely as a
hyperpigmented facial spots was demonstrated result of normal sun-exposure habits and practices
with 2% and 5% niacinamide in an abbreviated of the subjects during the spring-summer season.
dose–response manner, with 5% being statistically In conclusion, lectins and plasma membrane
significant from the vehicle control. In addition, glycoproteins of melanocytes and keratinocytes
the skin-lightening effect of niacinamide was tem- are required for communication between these
porary since halting application of niacinamide cells, and to facilitate melanosome transfer.

506
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes

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