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Introduction
Skin coloration is a result of many complex pro- Several theories have been proposed to explain
cesses. Epidermal melanocytes synthesize pigmented this transfer process. These theories consist of: (a)
melanosomes that are subsequently transferred to release of melanosomes into the intercellular space,
and retained by the surrounding keratinocytes. with subsequent endocytosis by the keratino-
Normal skin coloration is a result of both efficient cytes; (b) cytophagocytosis, i.e. the phagocytosis
melanization of the melanosome by the melano- of dendritic tips of the melanocytes by keratino-
cyte and proper transfer to and receipt of the cytes; (c) direct inoculation of the melanosomes
melanosome in the keratinocyte (1,2). The process into the keratinocytes; or (d) transfer of melano-
of melanin production has been well studied, and somes via a communication conduit between the
the major enzymes involved in the melanization melanocytes and keratinocytes (5–8). These pro-
pathway have been identified (3,4). However, little cesses may not be mutually exclusive; transfer of
is known about the process of intercellular mela- melanosomes may occur through a combination
nosome transfer. of these mechanisms (6).
498
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
The amount and regulation of melanosome cell types. We also examined the reversibility of
transfer contributes to the ultimate pigmentation melanosome transfer impeded by these com-
of human skin. Alterations in this melanosome- pounds both in a culture model and in a clinical
transfer process may be the basis for several pig- trial. Further insight into these compounds as well
mentary/complexion diseases and disorders. This as their underlying mechanism of action will indi-
is supported by several pigmentary disorders cate potential inhibitors and eventual stimulators
involving containment of the melanosome within to manipulate human skin pigmentation.
the melanocyte, such as hair-graying (9) and nevus
depigmentosus (10). Cutaneous hyperpigmenta-
tion occurs in numerous conditions such as aging Materials and methods
(11), pregnancy (12), postinflammation (13), and Cell cultures
scarring (14). Inhibition of melanosome transfer
Melanocytes and keratinocytes were obtained from Cascade Biolo-
by the protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) (15) gicals (Portland, OR, USA). Melanocytes were maintained in M154
or niacinamide (16) results in lightening of cuta- basal medium (Cascade Biologicals) and supplemented with 5%
neous pigmentation. In addition to skin health fetal bovine serum, 1% antibiotic/antimycotic (Gibco, Grand
issues related to altered pigmentation, a cosmetic Island, NY, USA), 1 mg/ml of transferrin, 1 mg/ml of vitamin E,
5 mg/ml of insulin, 0.5 ng/ml of basic fibroblast growth factor, 108 M
desire for light and even skin tone is prevalent in melanocyte-stimulating hormone, and 109 M endothelin-1 (all
many areas of the world, especially among Asian from Sigma Chemical Co., St Louis, MO, USA). Keratinocytes were
populations. Approximately 60% of Japanese maintained in M154 basal medium supplemented with keratinocyte
growth supplements (Cascade Biologicals) and 1% antibiotic/
women and 75% of Chinese women desire lighter antimycotic (Gibco). Cocultures of keratinocytes/melanocytes were
skin (16). Therefore, the process of melanosome established as previously described (22). In short, established cultures
transfer presents unique opportunities to ther- of keratinocytes and melanocytes were trypsinized, washed, and
apeutically and cosmetically influence human reseeded at a keratinocyte : melanocyte ratio of 10 : 1 in a media
containing equal parts of keratinocytes and melanocytes.
skin pigmentation.
Plasma membrane lectins and their correspond-
ing glycoconjugates, putatively expressed by mela- Test compounds
nocytes and keratinocytes, may play a critical role The lectins used in these experiments (and the corresponding
in melanosome transfer for a variety of reasons. carbohydrate moiety they bind to) consist of Narcissus pseudo-
These molecules are responsible for cell–cell recog- narcissus (NP) L5650 (a-D-mannose), Pisum sativum (PS) L5380
nition in general (17), and phagocytosis by macro- (a-mannose), Psophocarpus tetragonolobus (PT) L2138 (GalNAc,
phages in specific (18). Previous studies have gal), Lycopersicon esculentum (LE) L2886 (GalNAc), and Tetra-
gonolobus purpureas (TP) Lp254 (a-L-fucose). All lectins were
indicated increased production of these molecules
purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (St Louis, MO, USA).
in melanocytes after UVA irradiation (19), sug- The two neoglycoproteins used in these experiments (and the
gesting that they facilitate melanosome transfer. conjugate lectin they interact with) consist of a-1, 3a-1,6-manno-
In addition, symptoms of the rare metabolic dis- triose–bovine serum albumin (BSA) (N402) (Con A) and galac-
ease, carbohydrate-deficient glycoprotein syn- tose a-1,3-galactose–BSA (N403) (Euonymus europaeus). Both
neoglycoproteins were purchased from Calbiochem/Novabio-
drome type III, which alters carbohydrate moiety chem (La Jolla, CA, USA).
synthesis and processing, include pale and unpig- Niacinamide (nicotinic acid amide) was purchased from Sigma
mented skin (20). Most importantly, certain lectins Cell Culture.
and neoglycoproteins have been shown to impede
the melanosome-transfer process when used in a Apoptosis detection
coculture model system that recapitulates melano-
Cultures of melanocytes or keratinocytes and melanocyte/kera-
some transfer (21). These various lectins and neo- tinocyte cocultures were treated with test compound or vehicle [i.e.
glycoproteins interact with galactosyl, fucosyl, and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS)] alone, once or twice daily for
mannose residues (21) and had been previously 6 days and assayed for apoptosis/necrosis as described below.
implicated in studies of melanin transfer between Experiments were repeated three times with triplicate samples
per experiment. In experiments involving melanocyte–keratino-
transformed cells (19). However, it was unknown cyte cocultures, we developed a differential trypsinization proced-
whether these lectins or neoglycoproteins would ure whereby melanocytes and keratinocytes were separated at
have any negative effects on cell viability or the termination of the experiment and evaluated individually for
apoptosis (see Fig. 1a,b). In short, cocultures were treated briefly
whether the transfer inhibition would be perman- with 0.25% trypsin (approximately 3 min) to selectively remove
ent. In this study, we investigated the effect of the melanocytes. The remaining keratinocytes were obtained by
various concentrations of lectins, neoglycopro- further trypsinization.
teins, and niacinamide, a known skin-lightening Isolated cells were then processed for detection of non-viable
cells (i.e. cells in early and late stages of apoptosis and cells
agent (16), both alone and in combination, on undergoing necrosis) by flow cytometry using the Annexin V
melanocyte and/or keratinocyte viability and on apoptosis-detection kit (Trevigen, Gathersburg, MD, USA).
melanosome transfer between these two epidermal Counterstaining with propidium iodine (PI) was used to identify
499
Greatens et al.
500
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
was selected to have less hyperpigmented spots, while it was those previously demonstrated to reduce melano-
assigned a negative (–) value when the pretreatment was selected some transfer in cocultures of melanocytes and
to have less hyperpigmented spots. Thus, positive values indi-
cated efficacy and negative values indicated no efficacy. The keratinocytes (21) as well as concentrations that
mean ratings of the eight judges were used for the statistical were one-half and twice these reported concentra-
analysis. tions. Cells were then evaluated for Annexin V
and/or PI reactivity by flow cytometry as an indi-
Data analysis cator of non-viable cells. Cells negative for both
Image analysis data (hyperpigmented spot area fraction) were Annexin V–FITC and PI were considered healthy.
compared for the change from the baseline by a paired t-test at The data demonstrated that the viability in pure
each subsequent time point. Visual assessment data (the mean cultures of both melanocytes and keratinocytes
rating of the eight judges) were also compared by a paired t-test. was significantly compromised by certain lectins
Statistical significances were assessed for whether P-values were
less than a ¼ 0.05 or not. All calculations were performed using and neoglycoproteins generally in a dose-dependent
SPSS for Windows, version 11.5. manner (Fig. 2a,b). Of exception were the lectin
PT and the neoglycoprotein alpha-galactose,
which exhibited no deleterious effect on melano-
Results cytes at the dosages tested.
The negative effects of lectins and neoglycopro-
Effect of lectins and neoglycoproteins on cell teins on the viability of melanocytes or keratino-
viability of cultured melanocytes and keratinocytes cytes in monocultures were not apparent in
The viability of pure cultures of melanocytes or previous experiments where melanocytes and
keratinocytes exposed to lectins and neoglycopro- keratinocytes were grown in coculture (21). The
teins was assessed. Test concentrations included negative effects on cell viability by several lectins
0
4.4
8.8
17.5
8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0
4.4
isolated cultures of keratinocytes in a dose- 120 c Melanocytes in coculture 140 d Keratinocytes in coculture
dependent manner. Cocultures were
treated twice a day for 6 days with the 100 * * 120
3.5 NA
0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0
0
4.4
8.8
17.5
4.4
8.8
17.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
3.5
0.9
1.8
0.5
1.0
2.0
0.5
1.0
2.0
represent SD; asterisks represent P < 0.05. Highest relative concentration (mg/ml) of lectin allowing normal cell viability
Table presents the highest relative
concentration (mg/ml) of lectin allowing NP TP PS PT LE
M K M K M K M K M K
normal cell viability in comparison
Monoculture 4.4 <4.4 4.4 8.8 0.9 0.9 >3.5 >0.9 >3.5 >3.5
between monoculture and coculture
Coculture 4.4 >17.5 >17.5 >17.5 >3.5 >3.5 1.8 <0.9 1.8 1.8
conditions.
501
Greatens et al.
40 40
lowest concentration. Therefore, all lectins except 20 20
PT were combined at the highest concentration 0 0
(i.e. NP ¼ 4.4; TP ¼ 17.5; PS ¼ 0.5; LE ¼ 0.5 mg/ 0.0 0.1 1.0 10.0 100
Concentration (µM)
1000 0.0 0.1 1.0 10.0 100
Concentration (µM)
1000
502
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
503
Greatens et al.
fraction were assessed after 4 and 8 weeks of treat- ment was stopped at week 8. Specifically, image
ment with either 2 or 5% niacinamide (Fig. 5a,b). analysis results of the percentage change from
After both 4 and 8 weeks of treatment, the side of baseline in spot area fraction were assessed at
the face receiving niacinamide demonstrated a weeks 16, 26, and 42 (i.e. 8, 18, and 34 weeks
higher hyperpigmented spot-reduction efficacy vs. post-treatment, respectively) (Fig. 5e). After the
vehicle for both concentrations; however, only 5% 18-week regression period, the spot-reduction effi-
niacinamide exhibited significant differences at cacy of 5% niacinamide was reduced from D4.7%
both time points. Visual grading performed on (at 8 weeks, significant difference vs. vehicle) to
test subjects at the 8-week time point also demon- D2.8% (at 26 weeks, no significant difference vs.
strated that 5% niacinamide treatment had signif- vehicle), and had leveled off through 42 weeks (no
icantly higher hyperpigmented spot-reduction significant difference vs. vehicle). Visual grading
efficacy vs. vehicle control (Fig. 5c,d), while 2% performed on test subjects also demonstrated
niacinamide treatment did not (Fig. 5c). These that regression from the 5% niacinamide
data confirm a dose–response effect in hyperpig- treatment resulted in no significant difference vs.
mented spot reduction by niacinamide. In vehicle at both the 26- and 42-week time points
addition, visual assessment of captured images by (Fig. 5f). After 18 weeks of regression, the spot-
a dermatologist confirmed that there was no side reduction effect of 5% niacinamide had regressed
effect due to niacinamide such as hypopigmenta- from D0.33 (at 8 weeks, significant difference vs.
tion or erythema after 8 weeks of treatment for all vehicle) to D0.24 (at 26 weeks, no significant dif-
subjects. ference vs. vehicle), and continued to regress to
Image capture was continued in the group that D0.12 at the 42-week time point (no significant
received 5% niacinamide (Group 1) after treat- difference vs. vehicle). In addition, visual assess-
Figure 5. Dose response of niacinamide
spot-reduction efficacy as assessed by
image analysis and visual grading plus
reversibility of 5 % niacinamide
a b hyperpigmented spot-reduction efficacy.
Group 1: Effect of 5% niacinamide moisturizer on Group 2: Effect of 2% niacinamide moisturizer on
facial hyperpigmented spot area facial hyperpigmented spot Area
Percentage change of hyperpigmented
4% 4% spot area fractions from baseline for (a)
5% and (b) 2% niacinamide and vehicle-
Percent change of spot area fraction from
2% 2%
Week of use Week of use treated sides of the face during treatment
0% 0%
0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 period of 8 weeks as assessed by image
–2% –2% analysis. Asterisks indicate significant
difference vs. vehicle at each
baseline
baseline
–4% –4%
–6% –6%
subsequent time point (*P < 0.05,
**P < 0.01). 5% niacinamide reduced
–8% * –8%
spot area fraction vs. vehicle by 4.4%
–10% –10% (P < 0.01), while 2% niacinamide did by
–12% Vehicle –12% Vehicle 2.6% at 8-week time point, indicating a
**
–14%
5% Niacinamide 2% Niacinamide dose dependency of niacinamide effect.
–14%
(c) Average of visual grading for the area
c Visual assessment of niacinamide effect on of hyperpigmented spots from baseline
hyperpigmented spot at 8-week time point d
1
for 5 and 2% niacinamide and vehicle-
Average of grading (–4 to +4: the
higher the more spot reduced)
0.9 Vehicle
treated sides of the face at the end of the
0.8 Niacinamide 8-week treatment period. Asterisks
0.7
0.6
indicate significant difference vs. vehicle
0.5 (*P < 0.05). (d) Representative facial
0.4
images of 5% niacinamide treatment of
0.3
0.2 the face at week 0, 4, and 8. (e)
0.1 Percentage change of hyperpigmented
0
2% 5% Week 0 Week 4 Week 8 spot area fractions from baseline for 5%
Niacinamide
niacinamide and vehicle-treated sides of
e f the face during treatment period of 8
Regression of 5% niacinamide spot reduction effect Regression of 5% niacinamide spot reduction effect
weeks and the regression period of 34
Percent change of spot area fraction from
1.2
higher the more spot reduced)
0%
0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40
1
weeks. Asterisks indicate significant
Week of use
–5%
* difference (*P < 0.05, **P < 0.01). (f)
0.8
5% Niacinamide
Vehicle
Average of visual grading for the area
* of hyperpigmented spots from baseline
baseline
–10% 0.6
504
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
ment by a dermatologist confirmed that there was that functions as part of coenzyme I (nicotinamide–
no side effect due to niacinamide such as hypopig- adenine dinucleotide, NAD) and coenzyme II
mentation of erythema after 34 weeks of the (reduced form of NADP) (29,30) and is involved
recovery period for Group 1. in over 200 enzymatic reactions (31). In the skin,
niacin can act as an anti-inflammatory agent in acne
(32), as an antioxidant preventing photoimmuno-
Discussion
suppression and photocarcinogenesis (33), and a
The molecular mechanisms involved in the inter- stimulator for intracellular lipid synthesis (34).
cellular transfer process of melanosomes from However, the molecular mechanism of the inhibi-
melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes may be tory effect of niacinamide or melanosome transfer is
harnessed for the amelioration of skin pigmentary unknown and requires further exploration.
disorders and to develop novel and effective means Indeed lectins, neoglycoproteins, and niacin-
to lighten skin coloration. Initial events in melano- amide present interesting molecules that may mod-
some transfer most certainly involve recognition ulate skin pigmentation. However, it was
between melanocytes and keratinocytes. The exact unconfirmed in earlier studies whether the skin-
mechanisms facilitating this interaction are cur- lightening effect induced by these agents was a
rently unknown. Recently, it has been well demon- result of apoptotic events occurring in the kerati-
strated that the PAR-2 on keratinocytes regulates nocytes and/or melanocyte, as opposed to actual
skin pigmentation (24) by increasing the phagocy- inhibition of melanosome transfer. Our initial
tic activity of the keratinocyte (15,25). In addition, results demonstrated that concentrations pre-
PAR-2 expression on keratinocytes can be regu- viously demonstrated to inhibit melanosome
lated by ultraviolet light to increase melanosome transfer could induce dose-dependent apoptosis
transfer (26). in pure cultures of melanocytes and keratinocytes
Less-defined endogenous lectin receptors and (Figs 1c,d and 2a,b). However, we had not
their glycoconjugate ligands also appear to be observed any microscopic evidence of these apop-
involved in melanosome transfer (27). Initial stud- totic effects using these concentrations of inhibi-
ies demonstrated that melanosome transfer tors in our coculture model system (personal
between human melanoma cells and squamous observations). Therefore, we tested the apoptotic
cell carcinoma-derived keratinocytes could be effect of these agents on both keratinocytes and
mediated by certain lectins and neoglycoproteins melanocytes when existing together in coculture
(19). Recent studies have demonstrated that the (Fig. 2c,d). The apoptotic effects observed in cul-
addition of these agents to cocultures of normal, tures of isolated melanocytes or keratinocytes
untransformed human melanocytes and keratino- were, in most cases, greatly reduced, or completely
cytes could also downregulate melanosome trans- eliminated, when the same concentrations of nia-
fer (21). In addition, it has been demonstrated that cinamide or lectins were tested on melanocytes or
exposure of melanoma cells to UV irradiation keratinocytes existing in coculture (Fig. 2c,d). This
results in the upregulation of these membrane lec- suggests that cell-survival factors, produced by one
tins and neoglycoproteins (27). Therefore, lectins cell type and utilized by the other, may make both
and their glycoconjugate ligands are excellent can- cell types more tolerant to stressful stimuli. Many
didate molecules involved in melanosome transfer cytokines, produced by epidermal cells such as
for a variety of reasons. These molecules have been endothelin-1 (35), insulin (36), transferrin (37),
well studied for their role in numerous cellular and basic fibroblast growth factor (38) may help
processes, including endocytosis, intracellular traf- give cells added resistance. These compounds are
ficking, and cell-to-cell recognition (17). present in conditioned media, often added to
Niacinamide (28), also called nicotinamide or slowly proliferating cell monocultures in our
3-pyridine carboxamide, is the physiologically laboratory. Alternately, cell–cell contact between
active amide of niacin, vitamin B3. It has multiple melanocytes and recipient keratinocytes might
medicinal effects on the skin, including anti- simply occupy receptors or molecules recognized
inflammation, antioxidation, prevention of photo- by the test inhibitors and/or alter gene expression
immunosuppression, and increasing intercellular rendering cells more resistant to the apoptotic
lipid synthesis (25). The lightening of skin color effects of the test compounds. These results also
has also been attributed to niacinamide. Recently, suggest that the lectins and their glycoconjugates
we have demonstrated that niacinamide effectively responsible for cell-to-cell interactions and that
inhibits melanosome transfer by up to 68% in an play a vital role in the melanosome-transfer pro-
in vitro coculture model system (16). Niacinamide cess may also aid in the cell tolerance to the
is a biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) inhibitory compounds. In addition, there was no
505
Greatens et al.
506
Melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
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We thank Mr Ashish Budev and Ms Yasuko Inoue for their
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