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Unit 2 Lesson 2

Master Garment Document

Design and Creation of Seamless


Knitwear with Circular Needles
with Carmen García de Mora

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okayyy
Now that we understand the anatomy of the yoke, let’s
move on to the design of your garment. This document
will guide you throughout the course. It’s a step-by-step
method to note down your measurements, perform
calculations, and design your yoke.

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introduction
You can see the quick structure of what we’re going to do here.

adding in the underarms. From there, we’ll attach the sleeves and body to the length and you’ll complete the endings to your liking.

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measurement sheets
Neck circumference

Total length

Shoulder circumference
Nape-wrist length

Sleeve circumference
Yoke depth

Chest circumference

Cuff circumference

Hip circumference

Neck circumference Body (in cm) Garment (in cm) Initial calculations Final calculations
(It will be at least 80% of the
head circumference). s s

Shoulder circumference s s

Chest circumference s s

Hip circumference s s

Arm/sleeve circumference s s

Cuff s s

Yoke depth r r

Nape-wrist length

Total length

Sleeve length: ......... = nape-wrist length - yoke depth - (1/4 neck circumference)

Bottom of arm opening: ......... s


(It’s calculated based on the depth of the yoke, from 0 to a maximum of 8% of the chest measurement.)

Sample 10 x 10cm = ......... s × ......... r


Yarn: ...........................................................
Needle: ........................................................

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yoke calculations
SAMPLE 10 x 10cm = ......... s × ......... r Number of sections around yoke = .........

FIRST PHASE OF THE YOKE SECTION: From the neck to the shoulder circumference.

A ......... s × ......... sections = ......... s neck

B ......... s × ......... sections = ......... s shoulder circumference

SECOND PHASE OF THE YOKE SECTION: From the shoulder measurement to the separation of body and sleeves.

rounded to C

Phase 2 1/2

Yoke depth
B

Phase 1 1/2

NOW TO ADJUST THE NUMBER OF FINAL YOKE STITCHES

The sum of the stitches from the body and sleeves should be equal to “ .”
To ensure that, we’ll adjust the number of stitches in our chest and sleeve measurements.

D
+ +

E
= =

(Total) .......... s

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yoke calculations
HOW TO SEPARATE THE BODY AND SLEEVES

.......... s

.......... s .......... s

stitch marker

G F G
chest circumference
circumference .......... s circumference
.......... s .......... s

.......... s .......... s
.......... s

From the marker you placed at the beginning of the row in the center of the back:
1 · Knit half of the stitches in the back (D/4).
2 · With a needle and yarn, leave the yoke stitches that go with the sleeves on hold (E/2).
3 · Add the underarm stitches.

5 · With a needle and yarn, leave the yoke stitches that go with the sleeves on hold (E/2).
6 · Add the underarm stitches.
7 · Knit the other half of the back stitches to complete the row (D/4).

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how to draw the yoke section
PHASE 1

4 · Incorporate the additions between the beginning and end in the most uniform way possible, keeping in mind that:

- Try to make the additions match up in odd rows.


- If the total number of additions is even, distribute them symmetrically on the left and right.
- If the number of additions is odd, you’ll obviously add one more stitch to one side than the other.

2 · Mark the row where the second phase ends.

4 · Incorporate the additions between the beginning and end, keeping in mind that:
- Start incorporating additions in the last odd row.
- To facilitate the shoulder shape, maintain a few rows without additions at the beginning of the phase.
- If the total number of additions is even, distribute them symmetrically on the left and right.
- If the number of additions is odd, you’ll obviously add one more stitch to one side than the other.

PHASE 1

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draw the section of your yoke

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body and sleeve calculations
BODY
Continue knitting the chest circumference to the length you’d like.
The length that’s left to knit goes from the end of the yoke to the bottom of the sweater:

Remember to include the hem you’ll give your sweater in this number of rows.

continue knitting to the total length.

(with the hip circumference larger than the chest circumference), do the following calculations:

If you add one s to each side of the back and one s to each side of the front, in one r you’ll have added four s.

straight a-line
SLEEVES
Continue knitting the sleeve circumference between 10 and 15cm before starting to reduce the circumference.
To calculate the reduction:

......... s sleeve circumference - ......... s cuff = ......... s reduction.

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garment summary
INFORMATION

Sample 10 x 10cm = ......... s × ......... r


Number of sections = .........
Yarn: .....................................................................
Needle: ......... and ......... mm with .........cm cable

NECK/COLLAR

Prepare ......... s and place your beginning r marker.


Knit ......... r s.
Continue knitting with needle .........
Knit stitch the entire r as you place markers to separate each section. To do so:
First r: *knit stitch ......... s, Place Marker, *Repeat from *a* to the end of the r.

You have ......... s left.

SEPARATE THE BODY AND SLEEVES

1 · Knit ......... s
2 · With a needle and yarn, leave the yoke stitches that go with the sleeves on hold (E/2).
3 · Add ......... s for the underarm.
4 · Knit the ......... following s
5 · With the help of a needle and yarn, leave the ......... following s
6 · Add ......... s for the underarm.
7 · Knit ......... s of the remaining back stitches to complete the row (D/4).

BODY

Knit the ......... s using ................................................... stitch for ......... cm.


Knit using .................................. stitch for ......... cm and bind off the stitches..

SLEEVES

Collect the ......... s on hold for one of your sleeves and lift the ......... s you increased for the underarm in the body.
Knit the ......... s using ................................................... stitch for ......... cm.

Knit ......... r using ................................................... stitch.

Repeat these ......... r, ......... more times. ......... s will have been reduced. ......... s are left.

· Cuff

Knit using ................................................... stitch for ......... cm and bind off the stitches.
Stitch the other sleeve the same way.

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alriiight
With this method, you can make any garment
with a yoke you can think of.

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