10 16 22 24 28 2 Kitty - Project A different bear, with braids and style by Lisa Pay Old Herbert — Project ‘An aged bear with an adorable face by Jane Rea of Rea Bear Not a Bear Collection ~ Anonymous Collection A hug of much loved bears. ‘Kim McDonald - Starick Bears Kim gives tips for those aspiring mini bearmakers Tremayne - Project A handsome bear with needle-felted features by Sandi Smith of Bearly Sane Dsaensnes 34 a2 Helen Gleeson ~ Bare Cub Designs Helen talks about bear making and the support needed Sam is Top Dog & the Bears — Kris Meares A collection of childhood friends and more. Holly ~ Project Melanie Grassam of New Bearland has designed this lovely white Christmas bear. Dress and Bloomer — Project Dawn Butler of Bear Wear offers this lovely dress as for a small bear50 Jillabee and Babee - Project A duo of bears with wonderful paw treatment to stretch your skills by Merily Pursell of Bearwildered Bears Regular 56 Bear Necessities 60 Basic Bear Techniques ~ Clay Noses 62 Bear Glossary¢ Bear Gallery Welcome to the all new bear gallery. This new gallery will excite designers and collectors alike. Each issue designers will advertise their favourite bears for sale and you can contact the designer and buy a bear to start, or add to, your very own bear collection. ‘Adorable Bears Contact Susan Bartlett ‘iver Bears ‘on Ph 03 5821 9979 Contact Barbara Briten on Ph: 024353 2706 Enmail:riverbears@nswchario.netan Enail: bare bigpond.com wewadorablebears.comau income & Wild Artist Bears Comat: Sail. Simmons Ph: 08 98415099 Fini: salysinmons@wesinet.com.an Lyn’ Tiny Commer Contact Lyn Wilson on Phe 07 3408 9748, nail n.witson@tynste.comaw Rel Deu! Bears vw dynste-comaw Contact Christine Healey on Ph: 03 5122 3086 nails mme18137@bigpond nan seww.ealdealbears.comNang Ss TEDDIES & TOYS Ore Det) aN nes 2007 Toby Award winner. No.1 in a new "Glorious Decades Series® 37cm Mohair with Growler "Which famous rock 'n roll i 9, ae king does he remind you of?” Limited edition of 500 worldwide, eu aa Sam — 5pm 13th Annual Sonnerburg Museum Bear Complete with wooden farm wagon and mini mohair cat. 40cm Mohair and Excelsior. Limited European Edition of 250 2007 Pope Benedict XVI Special edition commemorating Joseph Ratzingers 80th birthday Limited Edition ‘of 800 Worldwide Australia’s Largest Specialty . Teddy Bear Megastore -* Over 14,000 Teddy Bears, Plush Animals and Porcelain Dolls in Stock cerry Paes Pret y etd Diana Princess of Hearts commemorating the 10th Anniversary of Diana's Passing (1997-2007) Limited edition of 500 Worldwide To see our entire range of the Hermann collection go to our website www.teddys.com.au 21 Great Western Hwy Brooklands Village Blaxland NSW « 02 4739 0677MINI Prorit Karen Skindberg is an award winning Queensland bear artist who trades under the label of “Bosley Bears’ Karen started making bears around 'S years ago, for pleasure rather than selling, entering bears in competitions Rosley bears are usually made with mohair or alpaca and each one has something special of it’s very own, a scarf, necklace or special bow, that is unique as the bear itself. Karen loves experimenting so each bear is unique and evolves as she works her magic with each idea. Karen has also mastered the art of needle felting, harsh on the fingers, but delight when the be: Bosley Bears recently debuted at the Gold Coast Intemational Teddy and Doll Fair where most of the bears quickly found ne IC initial reactions are anything to go by, Karen's be is finished. homes. (eddy bear lovers and coll Karen is now marketing her bears ous teddy bear shop in ustralia, who also takes her through a Brisban bears to teddy bear shows around the world, on Karens behalf, If you would like 10 see more Bosley bears by Karen Skindberg, please visit www.BearsAndGifis.com.au or send an email 10 lisa@BearsAndGifis.com.au for more information. Phone: +61 7 3325 5366. me page’ Phone: 03 6228 4988 Porrev eee tated Aerlinn Bears Handcrafted Originals By Esther Pepper Listing weekly on ebay come visit my ‘about Pree Post Office ORME EEA Ph: 0363966150 BENSON BEARS Reece tari e eI hrc ay Rene Mesa a mene RC eae CI Email bensonbears@microtech.com.auALLERLEIRAUH BEARS of a kind and comes with it’s own litle round little ears placed low to give Christiane Hermann & Edeltraud German birth certificate. them a gentle and cute expression. Schwarz are talented artists in Germany Some bears even have their own Christiane and Edeltraud take who design and hand stitch gorgeous designer knitted clothes, ereated an their gorgeous little friends to teddy Allerleirauh bears. knitted by the artists. Christiane and bear shows all across Europe and Christian and Edeltraud started Edeltraud also makes their own felt have recently started selling bears in making “Waldorf” dolls in 1980 and which is hand dyed to match each bear. Australia through Bears and Gifts, quickly gained a reputation for quality Allerleirauh bears hi ind detail, After trading at Doll and glass eyes, hand stitched noses and Queensland, Bear shows for many y they decided to try their hand at bear making, It didn’t take long fe small black a gorgeous teddy store in Brisbane, rs in Europe before e ch of them were spent more snd more time on t the dolls, and Tess on ‘They have been making original artist. bears exelusively since 2000. Allerleirauh bears are renowned for their quality furs, particularly the ever So soft velvets and cashmer their paws. Eak used for bear is unique, one Ifyou would like to see more bears by Christiane and Edeltraud, please visit www.BearsAndGifis.com.au or send an email to lisa@BearsAndGifis.com.au for more information. Phone: +61 7 3325 5366. Soft Teddy Plush, woven with a strong backing, Available ina variety of textures, beautiful colours, distressed and tipped. LtovDear tteds in sou ation [Wehaie Sal SORrIeaL TI Xia SST xo ee kot) South AfricaMINI PROFILES DURRER BEARS Originally from Switzerland, Silvia Durrer migrated to Perth / Western Australia in 1990,Craft has always been important to Silvia and she is now totally “hooked” on bears For two and a half years Silvia sd as many workshops with different teachers as possible. Following couragement from her teachers Silvia slarted entering her bears in competitions ‘and has won many awards due to her individual and quality designs. In 2001, Silvia started designing her ‘own bears and soon after started tea ‘workshops, Silvia loves teaching and believes the best award is when she see the proud expression on her student’s faces after they finish their bears, Durer bea are made from moh and/or alpaca and most of them feature sculptured and shaded faces and paw pads. Her favourite part of making creating its personality by seulpturing and shading its ace and embroider Silvia sells her gorgeous c1 is nose, cations at teddy bear shows around Australia, i through a teddy bear specialist store, “Bears and Gifts’ in Brisbane, Queensland, If you would like to see more of Silvia’s gorgeous creations, please visit www: BearsAndGifis.com.au or send an email 10 lisa@BearsAndGifis.com.au for more information, Phone: +61 7 3325 5366. CRYSTAL DEN 131 Foster St, EAS 7305 Phone: 03 6496 1963 * Handmade Arist Bears, Gollis & Dolls * Classes * Special Workshops Ifyou wish to be added to my mailing list to receive photo's and information ‘on new bears and. pattems as they become available, (Crystal Den Bears hhand made teddy bears, fairy bears, ‘ames & guinea pigs. Jenny Sturmey ph 03 64961963, «mat -crystaenbearsabigpond.com me at parkbear@bigpond.net.au ‘ebay store’ crystal denHAVEN BEARS Alison and Steve Beal are an extraordinary husband and wife teddy bear artist eam in England, They make the most stunning bears, who are full of charm and character. All Haven bears are “One of a Kind” ‘and have a trademark “beaded H” stitched on their left foot, Bach gorgeous character also has a belly button, Alison and Steve prefer to make little bears which are small in size between ‘cam and 14em. But don't be tricked by their size, each bear is packed full Of steel shots making them very heavy little chaps. ‘Steve and Alison have a passion for pandas, so will often create special panda bears who have genuine Panda ‘names, borrowed from a real panda Bach bear usually has 2 colours of fur to create contrast and character, with panda markings around the eyes painted rather than stitched. Alison and Steve always use premium furs, particularly really soft and dense alpaca, cashmere and mohair, using a Di variety of pile lengths, and choosing tipped and hand dyed furs to create very unique bears, Haven bears can be a little addictive, they are so cute, and nice to hold that once you have one, you will find yourself wanting another. Alison and Steve take their cute Haven Bears to teddy bear shows all around the UK and have recently started selling bears in Australia through Bears and Gifts, a gorgeous teddy store in Brisbane, Queensland. Ifyou would like to see more Haven bears by Alison and Steve Beal, please visit www. BearsAndGifts.com.au or send an email 10 lisa@BearsAndGifis.com.au for more information. Phone: +61 7 3325 5366. Woodend Teddy Bear Show Sunday 28th October 2007 St.Ambrose Hall Templeton St, Woodend 10am - 4pm Trang tables Local Interstate Artists Hundeds Tey Bears ar suplesto purchase Various raffles on theca suppor imal si Fret Hrs Pun Iafreshments catered ar by Wooded CFA. TeyBear Competition Plan to sper fil day or weekend. Lookarbus chebeasutl township ‘of Wooden Bsatulspringcens to view lots of shops cats Adults | Concession laren s2 (under yoars ree) For more formation pease contact Keri at ers tune of Berson 0 54274944 oF 04702019 ily Z]ATRIS! RUSSELL BEARS Handmade in Vestern Australia by Kim Russell www.russellbears.com ke | ‘Australian Bear Creations Sydney Show 2007. ‘Sherman - Best Bear in Show, Best Professional, 1st in section. Booh - Ist in section. *Sherman’ and "Booh’ are adopted! kimruss69@bigpond.com.au Ph: (61) 08 9307 1284 Fax: (661) 08 9405 5720 “Mob: 0427 655 040 BeaRCreaoss 9kilty Avery different bear designed by Lisa Pay for the beginner not sure of working with fur MATERIALS Please note: craft felt rectangles ‘were used inthis project. Ics not ecessary to use wool felt unless: ‘you wish to, asthe pieces are all interfaced before use for strength and sewing suitability. The standard size rectangles are approx 30cm+22cm For this project you will need: + 8 x beige - main body & headpieces & ams. +2 xed + pink-all flowers, + 1 x black pair of shoes + L xed pair of shoes + 2.x black and red — bag +1 x off-white feet — bag. (Change the colours to suit your project). + Approx 30cm - 2Sem fabric scrap for legs + Approx 40m fabric for cape + Approx 1/2m fusible woven interfacing. Medium weight + Approx 30cm - 100em fusible webbing + 9mm black glass eyes +2-x1 4mm buttons with twin holes for the cats eyes (bag) + Approx 15m braided cord or similar +2x 10mm buttons for shoes +3 x [2mm battons for flowers +1 x 14mm button for large flower +5 ply Perle threads for blanket appliqué + 5 ply thread black forthe nose + contrast colour if desired + Ric Rac scraps for the flower stems, and ankles + Approx I m of Ric Rae for cape hem + Small press-stud for the bag + Hook and eye fastener forthe cape + 30cm extra cord forthe bag handle + 1x 45mm joint for the neck +2. 35mm joints for the arms + Clear raft glue + Polyester filling + Approx 3 cups plastic beads for weight + Matching threads extra strong + ‘machine + Doll needle +awl + Fine laundry marker + Dental floss or sinew * General sewing/bear making requirements Finished size ~ S4em (21in) 10 BearCezanoxsINSTRUCTIONS Kitty isa fun rag style bear made up in various felts and fabries, ‘One of the most important factors in making suecessful collectable cloth mals and bears is fabric preparation, Ironing a medium weight, fusible ‘woven interfacing onto your fabrics and felts, (see pattem pieces) before drawing up and cutting out, will prevent fraying, stretching and ultimately give you more control over the sewing process, Fray check or zig zag only your turning openings and your seams will, say flexible and give you a smoother, ‘more rounded result when filling. Please remember this is a creative endeavour, there are no right or wrong colour choices, Take the time to transfer all markings and joint spots onto your fabric pieces, as this will ensure a straight, even, professional finish every time, ‘This pattern calls for some pi to be cut from double felt, Double felt is ereated by joining two felt rectangles together to create one piece using fusible webbing between th twvo pieces. Use a very hot iron and a protective cloth, and be sure to cut the ‘webbing to the exact same size as the felt pieces, Use contrasting colours together for a better result. All pieces are sewn right sides together unless directed otherwise, and all seams are 4mm, HEAD HAIR Please note: instructions are given for using braided cord, however, any other cord or wool yarns are sewn in the same way. Cut 50 strips of braided cord to measure no less than 30cm each, Twenty-five braids are sewn in a single layer on the centre head gusset pieces between the marks shown on the patter piece. Machine stitch the braids in place right sides together just inside of the seam allowance on each side. Now ‘with right sides together, pin and sew the two-centre head gusset pieces along the centre seam, incorporating all the braids as you do so, This seam will bbe quite bulky but is stil quite ‘manageable on the machine, trim the finished centre seam of any excess braids and finger press open. Now sew the assembled back head gusset with braids in place to the centre muzzle piece. s seam on the two side headpieces as shown, Now sew the assembled head gusset piece to the side headpieces, matching the centre nose mark with the centre chin seam, jew each side all the way down to the back neck edge, matching marks and keeping the braids free from the seams between thumbs and fingers for ‘a smooth rounded finish, Firmly stuff the head with polyester filling. Run ‘a gathering thread of doubled dental floss Smm in round the neck edge and insert the assembled neck joint. Draw in the gathering threads around the protruding bolt and tie off firmly several times. Snip thread ends, Position the eye patches in place Jjust over the seam line in the curve ‘where the eyes will go, Ensure your placement is matched and mirrored ‘then glue into place with a thin film of clear craft glue, Make sure all edges are sealed, Allow to dry 10 minutes. Now using a curved needle and your chosen Perle thread, work a buttonhole sliteh around the whole outside edge of each eye patch, NOSE AND MOUTH Using clear craft glue, attach your cut ‘out leather nose template to the desired position on the muzzle, Press on firmly and hold in the ‘cupped palm of your hand for approx ‘one minute, ensuring all edges adhere Allow to dry at Ieast 10 ~ 15 minutes, ‘Thread a medium length doll needle with an extra long, doubled length of ‘your chosen nose embroidery thread. Knot the end. Enter the needle at the base of the head just above the neck joint and e approx 3-4mm below the bottom ofthe nose template, directly through the chin seam, Using vertical stitches, cover the template neatly and evenly, worki from the centre outwards on each and finishing with an inverted "V" fly sliteh for the mouth, Change colour if you wish, Exit at the base of the neck, st and sink the knot. Use the photograph asa guide. Rethread your doll needle with a contrasting Perle or embroidery thread and make stitches to form a checked pattem over the noseUse the photograph as a guide. Nose gel may be applied for a glossy finish. Apply using a small flat brush and allow to dry between the ‘two coats. (Any flexible artist clear ¢gel medium is suitable), EYES Choose the correct eye placement positions using pins. When you are sure of your positioning, make a hole for each eye through the eye patch and the head layers using an awl, Before threading each eye make a hole in the centre of each eye white highlight circle and slip over each eye shank from behind each eye so that it sits neatly on the eye shank. To attach the eyes :use a long length of doubled dental floss, slip the forded end through the loop of one eye a little ‘way then slip the second ends through the floss loop and pull tight to secure. ‘You should now have your eye on the end of a long doubled thread. Thread the to ends through a long doll needle and enter the first hole and exit at the base of the neck in the middle Pull threads right through and remove the needle to leave the floss trailing Repeat this process with the second eye, exiting from the same hole at the base of the neck, Now tie left and right eye threads together very firmly using your thumbs to push and sink eyes deeply as you do so, Tie off several times and then sink your thread ends back into the head through the same hole to hide the knot, Snip off excess floss, Set aside. LEGS ‘Sew the four foot pieces to the four leg pieces where indicated on the pattern pieces, pressing seams downwards. Sew the matching leg paits together at the centre front from the top of the leg {o the toe, Press open, Sew a line of contrasting Rie Rac lover the seam, joining the foot to the leg {o ereate a tim for the top edge of the socks. Now with right sides together fold and sew the centre back leg seam on each leg, from top edge to heel Pin and sew the footpads in, Fimly stuff each foot with polyester filling up tothe ankles, Now fill the ower legs with plastic pellets leaving ‘enough room to be able to top with a litle polyfill and sew the knee fold line across the legs through all layers. Be sure the fold matches front centre seams with back centre seams, to create a bendable knee. Finish filling the upper section of the legs with polyfill, leaving enough oom again {o close the top opening on the machine, Set aside, BODY Sew the body front pieces together at the centre front seam. Sew the body back pieces together atthe centre back seam leaving an opening where indicated on the pattern, Now sew the side seams from neck to base on each side, Pin and sew the neck circle in place at the neck opening using firm backstiteh, Sew the completed legs, right sides together to the body front where indicated on the pattern piece, Ensure the legs are facing the right way for sewing in and turning trough, Tuck legs inside body cavity. in and sew the body base in place incorporating the two legs into the seam as you do so, Tum the completed body rough withthe legs now attached, Roll seams out between fingers and thumb for ‘a smooth, even finish, Set aside. ARMS To make the arms, cut the left and right ‘outer arms in your prepared double felt combination. The inner arms and paws are cut froma single layer of felt which has fusible webbing applied to the wrong side. Sew the contrasting paw pads to the inner arms where indicated on the pattem, Finger press these seams open and flat, Now lay each complete inner ‘arm onto the fell rectangle to create ‘an inner arm of double felt to match the outer arms, Using a hot iron and protective cloth fuse each inner arm to the rectangle, prim the second fell layer away around the entire inner arms with contrasting paw pads. Pin and overcast the inner arms to the outer arms, \wrong sides together. These arms will not be tumed through. Leave an opening where indicated on the pattern, Machine sew this seam using a close ‘matching machine thread, sting stitches. Make holes at the joint spots in Remove the overeach arm using an awl. Insert the assembled arm joints into each arm leaving the bolt protruding. Fill the arms firmly with polyester filling and close the opening temporarily with an overcasting stitch, ‘Now using Sply Perle thread in a contrasting colour, sew a blanket stiteh- ‘seam depth all the way around each arm closing the opening firmly as you do so. (find a curved needle makes this easier.) Remove the opening overcasting stitches. ASSEMBLY Join the arms to the body atthe joint pois you have made. Secure with the corresponding disc and washer and nut ‘Tighten firmly enough ( allow some ‘movement. Attach the head tothe body by inserting the protruding bolt through the hole in the neck circle, slip on the corresponding disc, washer nut and bolt. Tighten. FILLING Fill the base of the bear's body with plastie pellets, approx 2'/s cups in all, 14 Bear Cezanoxs ‘Now fill the remainder of the body firmly ‘with polyfill, paying particular attention to the neck and shoulder area. Close the back opening using extra strong thread and a ladder stitch. Set aside. EARS Sew ear pairs together leaving openings ‘wher indicated. Turn through and roll seams out between fingers and thumb for neven, rounded shape. Using a wooden skewer or similar, smeara small amount of clear craft glue inside each ear to seal the front ofthe ear tothe back to create strong single- layered ear. Slip stitch the openings closed. While the gue is drying encourage the fel into a nice ‘cupped shape. Using a Sply Perle thread ina contrasting colour, blanket stitch the ‘entire upper ear curve. Set aside, FLOWERS Cut the six flower shapes from your prepared double felt Mark the machine stitching lines in on each flower front and sew over each line twice on the machine using astitch setting. Use a contrasting thread colour for the best results. Snip the ends. [Now work a tiny blanket stteh around the entire outer edge of each flower using contrasting Perle or embroidery threads to suit. Set flowers aside. SHOES Using a hot iron and protective cloth, fuse the shoe upper liner pieces to the shoe upper pieces matching up the top edge. Now sew the front centre seam on. each shoe, Finger press this seam open and flat. With right sides together, pin and sew the shoe soles into place, ‘matching the heel and toe centre ‘marks, Use a firm backstitch, with extra strong thread, ‘Turn each shoe right side out and roll seams out between fingers and thumb for a smooth, rounded finish. Using Sply Perle thread in a contrasting Colour, blanket stiteh the entire top edge of each shoe. ‘To finish, sew prepared flowers in place on the front of each shoe using the ‘buttons as centres and anchor points. CAPE All seams are Lem. Ifyou are using ‘aheavy fabric with a natural frayed selvage, cut the cape front and back pieces with the lower edges right on te selvages fo create a frayed finish Alternatively, sew on a length of fringing braid when the cape is complete. ‘You will need approx 1m of fringing. ‘Cut out patter pieces. With right sides together sew around ends and lower edge collars, tum through ane press. ‘With right sides together sew centre front and centre back seams from lower edges to marks. Press seams open. With right sides together sew the side seams, eaving an opening each side \here indicated on the pattern piece. ress seams open and top stitch 5- ‘Gem in around each opening to create an armhole. With right sides together, sew the facings tothe cape at upper centre front, and centre back edges. Insert collar between cape and lining and sew neck edge, tum to right side and press. Sew a hook and eye at back neck opening Using Sply Perle thread in a co-ordinated colour, blanket stiteharound the collar and front neck opening and around each armhole. Cut one length of Rie Rae to 18em, and two matching lengths of Sem for the flower appliqué stems, Machine stitch the centre stem, stating ‘on the centre front stem line approx Sem (Should that be Sem?) from the neck edge, and following the seam line down, to the hem, Position and sew the shorter stems in place either side of the centre stem, finishing on the hemline. Stitch ‘your prepared flowers in place using the buttons as centres ‘To finish, sew a line of Ric Rac (or ‘two) around the lower edge of the cape, approx 1 1/2 - 2cm from the frayed edge, and covering the stem ends, Press, BAG Cut the bag from a piece of prepared double felt. ‘Cut the bag side panels from the same felt piece on reverse side ‘Cut muzzle appliqué shape and the ‘nose appliqué shapes from the prepared felts and fuse into position on the bag ‘where indicated on the pattern piece, using a hot iron and a protective cloth, ‘Work a buttonhole stitch around the ‘muzzle shape to secure in place using a ‘coordinating Perle or embroidery thread, Now satin stitch over the nose shape keeping the threads straight and parallel and finish off with an inverted “V" shape for the mouth in contrasting colour. Position and sew the eye buttons in place, building up the black thread to ‘ereate slit pupils. in and sew the bag side panels in place with wrong sides together showing the contrast felt colour, matching up the centre base marks, Using co-ordinating Perle threads {o suit, blanket stitch all the bag edges including the side panels, around the face ears and underside edges. Make a loop of braided cord and slip {nto place at the fold across the top of the head, then secure with a couple of tiny stitches. To finish, attach the prepared flower ‘using the button as a centre anchor point, atthe base of the right ear. Sew and press stud fastener in place under the front flap to secure. TO FINISH Pin the ears to the head in the desired position and sew firmly into place using extra strong thread and a ladder stitch, You may style Kitty’s hair in any Way you wish. Ifyou have used plaited braided cord, separate the strands on each cord length for full crimped look. Ihave given Kitty two plait and left some length at the back. If choosing plaits, take some hair from behind each ear to incorporate into cach plait for better scalp coverage Dress her in her cape and shoes and hang her little bag over her curved arm. Congratulations and well done! Comtact Lisa Pay Phone: (07) 5449 0049 Email: lisa@pedigreesroyal.com BEARTALESByMallPattem These are just a few of the. — ey projects included POTTS Mal scent an We pride ourselfin a lstyear ‘our personalized ee customer service Maa Rae and prompt mail 2 aed ° order service. teaches ad ars with many payment A, $5.0 per year eS options avaifable, Includes postage within Ny we make shopping ie + ‘Australanterational postage (eee very easy. = 5B =. era AG Goto the website for more Cd Contact us at Bear Essence Phone: (03) 9761 3333 Shop 1/211 Scoresby Rd, Boronia VIC 3155 or via the web site: www.bearessence.com.au. cim@bearessence.com.au BeaRCREATIONS 15,A scruffy old style Ted designed by Jane Rea of ReaBears + Fat 1/8m dark mohair, (Old Brown from Beary Cheap) + Fat 1/16m light mohair, (Butterscotch from Beary Cheap) + 2.contrasting colours of wool felt for paw pads + 8mm glass eyes + 8ply Perle cotton No. 3 (black) + 10x 25mm wooden discs +6 Cotter pins (for head 1 arm and 1 leg) + 2.x serews, 2 locknuts (for 1 arm and 1 leg) + 10 washers (arms, legs and neck) + Steel shot (optional) + Copic markers and Blender (Walnut and Dark Brown) + Matching threads for sewing + Extra strong thread for eyes or waxed sinew Draw arrows on the back of the mohair indicating the direction of the fur pile ‘Transfer the pattem onto your cardboard or plastic template material, Matching the direction of the arrows, place the templates on the back ofthe fur, aking note of all reversals. Transfer the pattern and all the markings to the back of the fur using a fine felt-tipped pen. Cut out using sharp pointed scissors, cutting 16 BraRCetanoxs + Polyester filling * Jointing tools Ratchet to fit lock nuts = Cotter pin turner, pointed nose pliers ightweight cardboard or Mylar plastic for templates * Biro or felt tipped pen (fine point) + Small, sharp pointed scissors * Long doll needle Milliner’s or straw needle + Stuffing stick (chopstick or similar) * Wire brush to brush out trapped fur + Nail file or sandpaper for paw pads + Tweezers * General sewing equipment Finished Size - 30em (12in) conly the backing, not the fur pile Transfer the paw anc! foot pad templates ‘onto the wool fel/suede and cut out A-4inm seam allowance has been allowed to all pieces, Place the two head pieces together ‘with the fur sides facing in, Pin and sew from the nose, down the chin, to the front of the neck,Insert the gusset. Align the centre ‘mark of the gusset with the seam you Ihave just sewn,and pin from this point to the nape of the neck on both sides. ‘Sew the gusset in by stitching from one eye point, around the tip of the nose to the other eye point, then, continue sewing to the nape of the neck, easing the fabric in as you go. Turn the head over and stitch from the nape of the neck to the eye point, This helps to Keep your bear's nose straight, Do not eave any openings except for the neck, Stuff the head by twisting polyester filling onto a stuffing stick so that small pellets are formed, Push these pellets into the nose, making sure you keep the centre seam straight at all times. When the nose is firmly stuffed fill the head in the same manner, continually ‘moulding the shape of the head and correcting any distortion, When you ave achieved the desired firmness, run a gathering thread around the neck using very strong thread or doubled waxed sinew. Join 2 Cotter pins together to make a wobble joint, place a washer then a 25mm dise ‘onto one pin and roll down the legs loosely. If you tighten too much the joint will not wobble. Place this joint into the head and gather the neck tightly and tie the thread securely making sure all the edges are pulled in firmly. A few stitches across the neck gap may be needed to help draw the fabric in tightly. Knot off and sink the thread ends into the head. BODY Place the two pieces together, Jining up the marks on the pattem, fur sides facing. Pin and sew together leaving openings where marked. Turn right side out, Attach the head to the body by pushing the ‘other Cotter pin through the neck ‘gap as indicated on the pattem, Work through the back of the body and place ‘metal washer and then a 25min wooden dise onto the pin. Using your Cotter pin turner, 18 BrarCazaroxs turn down the pins loosely, adjusting ‘until you are happy with the wobble. ARMS ‘Take one inner arm and match it up with 2 paw pads, ensuring the main colour will show outside while the contrasting one will be inside the arm. With right sides together (ie main colour touching the fur), pin and sew: Place this inner arm together with the matching outer arm so that the right sides are together, Then pin and sew them, leaving a gap where indicated. Repeat for the other arm and turn both arms right side out LEGS Match 2 leg pieces, with fur sides together, and pin and sew leaving openings where marked. As with the arms, choose the 2 paw pads and with the main one facing into the fur and backed by the contrasting one, pin in place using the template markings. With the right sides facing inwards, sew in place. Repeat for the other leg ‘and turn both right sides out JOINTING OF LIMBS Using a fine awl, make a hole where marked on fabric, Make the hole large enough in the limbs and body to pass the pin or screw through, Be careful to spread the threads without breaking them. Attach an arm by first placing ‘a metal washer, and a 25mm wooden dise onto a Screw. Push this screw from the inside of the arm through the body. Place a wooden disc, a metal washer and a locknut, in that order, on the screw inside the body and tighten the Joint, Repeat for opposite leg . As this isa scrufly style bear, the firmness of the joint is optional, For the other arm and leg make 2 wobble joints with the remaining 4 Cotter pins. Using your 25mm dises and washers attach these Timbs to the body. Note: I have used wobble joints andocknuts as I think it add to his look ‘and makes him a litle floppy but still able to sit well, but you can use just one style of jointing if you prefer. STUFFING ‘Stuff the limbs using the same technique described for the head, paying close attention to the ends of, the paw pads, shoulder area, the tips Of the toes, ankle area, and the tops of the legs. Once again as Herbert is kind of cuddly his stuffing can be soft or firm. did his limbs fairly firm and made his tummy a tittle softer. Close all the openings using the matching thread. Sink knots back into the bear. NOSE AND MOUTH luck the mohair from the nose and mouth area before stitching, Make sure you don’t remove too much mohair at this stage. Using the DMC. Perle thread and milliner’s needle, sew the nose usingeven stitches working backwards { forwards until the desired cov. is achieved. Leave some gaps between the stitches to give a rough tattered look. Bring the last stitch out at the bottom of the nose, over the centre ‘seam so that the same piece of cotton ccan be used to stitch the mouth, which is done in an inverted “Y Experiment with different eye positions using coloured pins or test eves. Inserting eyes: using extra-strong thread or two strands of sinew, about ‘one arm’s length should be enough, double it and thread it through the wire of the eye, leaving a loop. Pass both ends of the thread through the oop and pull tight, Carefully squeeze the loops closed slightly, so they can be easily pulled into the head, Thread both ends of the thread through the eye of a long doll needle, Push the doll needle through the head at a downward angle from one selected eye position {exit low at the nape of the neck, and as close to the neck dise as possible. Pull both ends of the thread through the head. Repeat for the other eye bringing these threads out close to, but not exactly at the same point as the first, Pull all threads tightly to double- check the eye positions and adjust as required, When you are happy with the eye placement, make small holes with an awl or embroidery scissors for the backs of the eyes to fit through, Pull all threads tightly andl tie them together in one knot. I like to get someone else to push the eyes in as [tie the threads, Sink the knot and sew the loose threads backwards and forwards a few times through the head, Place two matching ear pieces together with right sides facing. Pin and sew together, usit and leaving an opening as indicated. Repeat for the other ear. Turn out, Take a length of thread and ensure it is Iong enough to attach the ear to the head later. A thread the length of your arm will be plenty. Now ladder stiteh the opening closed and then pass the needle inside the ear and out throug Ce CC Cea KES (free postage) ae eae Cm Sua NE Sa BCR as eersert) ESR eet ace Oats Sri) ee Creu Ree A Cay Crest www.barecubdesigns.com or call Helen on 0400 797 700one of the botiom comers. Leave the thread hanging and you will re-thread to attach the ear later. Repeat for the other ear. ‘To get a nice cupped shape, pin the top of the ear in place. Use your thumb to get the desired curve and then pin the bottom corner in place. Repeat for the other ear, Sew ears in place using the thread left for this purpose and a doll needle, Pass the needle into the head close to the fear and out atthe other end of the cear Take a small stitch of the ear and pass the needle back into the head and out at the corner you started from. Take a small stitch Of the ear. Pull firmly. Your ear is now anchored in place. Atthis stage if you are unhappy with the ear placement itis only a ‘matter of Tifting the ear and pulling the threads out, re-pinning and starting again, Use a ladder stiteh to stitch stitch in the ear, come out and take a ‘Carefully remove any fur caught in the seams with a needle and give your bear ‘a gentle brush allover. Finish removing unwanted hair from around the nose and ‘muzzle area. Now pluck and trim fur anywhere you like - its up to you, a litle ‘on is head, some on his limbs, Ihave ‘added! some stitching on his head but you ‘can add more to his arms or paws etc. To add some dimension o your bear's face, use markers ina dark brown, carefully ‘uilding up cofour around the eye area. you use too much colour, use the opie Blender marker to lighten and remove. Also add alittle around the nose. For the two layered paws and feet, snip some Title holes inthe top layer only and then use sand paper rough them up. “You can also add some shading if you make Herbert a mile, add an old key oF coins and he’s ready, Give him a hug! small stitch in the head. Continue until around the back of the ear. Take a small the ear is stitched in place. Knot off and sink knot and threads inside head. ‘on phone: (02) 9625 3837 « BEARS FROM SVity yas EARTH o EW TEI Ue a 1e0) 7 Uae PH: 0064 9832 7489 e ee eeret ree Reed MGS eee ava ced 20 Bran CRrarions Grandparents’ Choice Crete by Eurice Eisaman rom ne Geman motor pei rancid, Every bear is made to order and is child-safe. $150 ps postage ‘Abo aval top quality ajc $115 EuiceAEsenan 23 Rosengren Lar, Sale, VicS747 Telephone (05) §7286523, like. Using a piece of fabric of your choice Jane Rea of ReaBears can be contactedGERRY’S HAVE A NEW WEBSITE! PeLOWEE Eee Schulte mohaiv... When Quality Counts! CTV ear Pree eer ie ae Dee Leste Cg eote area) CR pea Gerry's www.gerrys.com.au ~ Rea s es “Bongo” By Katrina Ndrejica THE LARGEST RANGE OF “BUMBLE BEARS” PATTERNS, KITS AND FABRICS IN THE DTC SER Se py TR Ts Tay 2 FANTASTIC LOCATIONS BRISBANE Geny’s Teddy and Craft Design Te OEM eee BUTE AC EL es ACO Oe GOLD COAST erie ee tt RT Cree cee eer ee rae eR eee Ee CEESWHAT IS AVAXHOME?ee ae UCU ae Ce ULcchins WME brand new books, trending movies, Cee Ce ec Cee mC ac cee Unlimited satisfaction one low price Cheap constant access to piping hot media Protect your downloadings from Big brother Safer, than torrent-trackers 18 years of seamless operation and our users' satisfaction ONT ay 400-403 Te ale ma oles One site AvaxHome - Your End Place We have everything for all of your needs. Just open https://avxlive.icuCOL TOR — ANONYMOUS. Not a Bear Collection! bears choose to live with me”, Tam admonished again in the telephone call with this family who live in Wester Australia and whose home hhas a few bears that have caught their hearts and come to live, ‘To a further admonishment [ try 10 ask how they started collecting, “I ‘was at a doll show and a bear caught iy eye and well he came home and afler that it was easy to find a bear here or there that also chose me. I like to be surrounded by pretty things and I have a craft background myself so T appreciate the talent and artistry in the bears” From our conversation know that the bears are well loved as this, delight{ul family of bear lovers, ‘ ‘T 'm not a bear collector! The 22° ‘BeaR CRraTions This home for bears is very selective. name each bear, all having t0 agree on a name. Our conversation continued “Due to circumstances we are often on the move and the bears are easy to move and don't damage”. I asked if they have collected bears from many areas in their moves “Not really as we found artist bears in WA and as we only buy fom magazines or shows most of our bears are from artists ‘who have traded at shows here. We have some really amazing bears from award winning artists such as Brigit ‘Charles, Kim Russell, Silvia Durrer and Sylvia Cartledge. We really do consider each of these artists to be some of the best in the world, as their creations clearly show the {alent they have” Among all the bears is the ‘occasional very happy Golly, some ‘made by another talented WA artist Pat Murphy. ‘They now have a much loved bear they named Popcorn Marislyn. This bear travelled from New Zealand to Join them given by Lynette and knitted by Marissa, hence the name, and it is extremely difficult to see this bear has been knitted. Brigit Charles was called ‘on {o assist with a heart shaped nose for this bear. ‘This family treasure the friendships that they have built up with the artists of their bears. “We may be chosen by the bears to purchase them but the friendships we have established, through the shows and meeting and talking with about the bears makesthem all special and unique. For us it is part of who and what the bear is. We could never purchase over the internet, The artist and the bear is all connected. Once we buy from an artist we will always look for them at the next show and see what they have”. ‘As the homemaker has a craft background I asked her in particular ‘what attracts her {0 a bear only to be admonished again! (really am a bit of a slow leamer!) “They choose me! Something which is different and ‘unique in each bear, They are not just pretty, though I like pretty things. T really can’t say. [just be drawn, Thave traditional bears and non- traditional bears. They are all lovely in their own way”. AS an artist and collector myself Tcan relate to this indescribable ‘something’ ‘This family are an example of those wonderful people that wander the aisles of shows, Chatting and talking, all unknowing, offering encouragement and a moral boost to the artists as the artists know that their creations will be going to a home where they will be loved, appreciated and coddled. In my next life I want to come back as a teddy bear and live with this anonymous family! I choose them! Bean CREATIONS 2PROFILE — Kim MCDONALD Vintage Scenes and Bears with a Story Kim McDonald of Starick Bears talks about making minis and setting a scene show in Melbourne and with great excitement showed me a miniature bear she has purchased. “Look at this face and the detail!” This was my first introduction to Kim McDonald of Starick Bears. ‘As I was opening my shop in Manly some months later I promptly contacted Kim and asked her to join, Kim was the first artist to send me bears and. therefore became the inaugural artist in ‘The Teddy Bear Hug. Her bears always showed great detail, exceptional technique and continual change in theme, Soon I had a list of collectors who had to be ed as soon as I received new bears from Kim. ‘When I first met Kim she was regularly entering jons and just as regularly winning “Best in ‘Show” and “Best in Section’. It soon came tothe point that others would notenter if Kim was, so she ceased (0 center. Her last competition was Linda Mullins” St ‘San Diego in 2008 and she won a frst With such a talent for sewing, designing and embellishing, I was more than expecting Kim to reveal a crafty childhood and a lifelong passion for bears, Instead Kim confesses to a talent and past-time of stealing her brother’s toy cars and building tracks and (unnels in the dirt! Tam reassured when Kim admits to outgrowing this, past-time as a teenager and finding a love for designing clothes from vintage fabrics. It was this love that led to her making her first bears. While scouring the Op Shops for good fabri to recycle, she came across a pattern for a Ste look alike bride and groom bear. She made the pattern up from some wool felt, (Kim that this makes quite an ugly, thin looking bear), ind, dissatisfied with these bears, she may not have made another bear if she hadn't see some I: 1997 a fellow bear artist retumed from aRAY ida bear magazines in and picked them up. Am diversity of the workmanship on display, Kim was excited to see a bear show advertised near her home during the next week. She attended the show and became enthralled. Kim’s husband Doug laughs at this: Tasted five minutes at that first show. I was being shoved and pushed aside by these collectors. I went and satin the car and I sat and sat and sat I do prefer being behind the tables these days so I d Just don’t ask me to work the machine or how Kim does something. Even after all this time watching her work, I'm still not sure.” As an artist myself who has trouble with patterns under five inches I asked Kim why she decided to do minis, Her answer? “Well, when I started I didn’t want to waste too much fabric ‘on mistakes or things that didn’t work so T just went as small as I could. n was a Bear Creation the reduction threw it all out. I'd be bitten by the bug by now and decided. that I would design something in ‘my” size. | practiced on heads first, as this, felt the most important, and I'd then do the bodies. Kim has several pointers for aspiring miniature artists, “The cutting out and fray stopping is the most important, A small difference in cutting can make abig difference in pieces matching up. Trace your pieces carefully: even a small difference of a millimetre or two, or having a lean on your pen, can makeabig difference. Bee ‘mote precise with your cutting, Consistency is needed in cutting on or just outside the line, Whatever you do with ‘one piece, you must do on all pieces. My haemostats are my favourite tool. Lown about four pairs to help with turning, stuffing and pulling the needle through the head for eyes, noses and needle sculpting, Ttend to sew with polyester thread, but [use Mastex for the eyes and needle-sculpting. separate the thread of the Mastex so that it is finer but still has, strength, Noses can be harder with mini bears as you need really good light for a start and a much smaller needle and finer thread, Itcan be hard to create a different shape or detail.” Curious by now, I ask for any tips on jointing. “T use fibro joints, answers Kim. “If the bear is under one inch, thread jointing is an option, ot use a hole puncher and make joints ‘out of plastic bread ties, piecing the centre with a thick needle, and using two beads and strong thread to thread them together. [also make tiny buttons this way. Kim continues: “When I first started ‘out, an experienced artist advised me not to take on too many orders. I didn’t listen but quickly found she was right. Lisa Dopking Ph:07 3720 0850 M:0414 926 046 tra Crescent 1207 became very stressed and don’t like making the same bear (00 many times, I find it constricts my enjoyment and creativity. These days rarely take orders. [love to make what I love to make, Many collectors who know my work just onder a Starick Bear and leave the design up to me, [love this!” As [know Kim has been ‘making bears for so long, I \as curious if she had ever taken classes. “No, I'm self taught,” she confesses, :verything is trial and error. One of ‘my most valuable lessons has been not to throw a head away until itis completely finished with all the final touches. Some of my best faces ‘come from those I have despaired of halfway through.” Kim does not consider that she has a signature style or look. However as a collector and artist myself I know Kenmore Hills QLD 4069 dopking@bigpond.com Tr anatst ( mel)that Kim is known for her faces and ‘more recently the lovely scenes she creates with her bears. Her comment fon this is: “In the old days I loved to use cashmere on my ‘cute style” bears, bbut then I wanted a vintage look and this fabric didn’t work so I went (0 sparse mohair. Nowadays I use fabric that was made around the 1950s for curtains and coats. I've found a cotton backed recent reproduction of this fabric and though not a dense, itis nice to work with. My inspiration can be drawn from a fabric or a prop [ find for ‘a scene. Sometimes itis just an idea and I will look for the pieces. [love (Op Shops and markets and antique fairs. Hove making my scenes and use them to express more about the bear and their personality. With minis you can do this, however, big bears are restricted by size. Kim now has rheumatoid arthritis which has affected her hands. “Yes, my ‘making has slowed but I was moving towards doing more complicated scenes anyway, Which take longer, and L find my hands have not affected my quality For the moment I’m happy doing about 20 bears a year and taking time to really create what I love.” Kim loves to trade at shows and be found with husband Doug at ma Victorian shows. Kim not only loves to scour the shops for props for her bears, she also has had a long and constant Tove of vintage clothing. “I found this, ‘great steamer trunk which makes a great Aisplay for the clothes. Ihave a lace-up corset, a bustle skirt and jacket circa 1873 and shoes of course. also have Thave been put Too may hobbies and not enough time,” laughs Kim. A thought we can all relate to T think! Consaet details for Kim McDonald of Starick Bears Phone: (03) 9743-5455 Email: minibears@bigpond.com Website: hnp:l/starickhears.com Ph: (02) 8883 2461 Fax: (02) 8824 7463 Email: teddysbits@bigpond.com.au Unit 7, 16 Adelphi Street Rouse Hill 2155 PHILIP’S TED-E-BEAR SUPPLIES Come & visit us - you won't bearlieve your eyes The largest range of bear making supplies in Sydney ee eae : ‘worldwide lintted edition colleciables. Opening hours: -ondny FEE ty nt lyTremayne A bear for all occasions by Sandi Smith of Bearly Sane® - Teddies for the Young at Heart MATERIALS FOR THE BEAR 1x fat 1/4 mohair #1 x piece Ultra Suede® +4 x 50mm disks (for legs) +6 x 40mm disks (for head and arms) #5 x sets locknuts/washers/bolts + 10mm eyes + Sply_Perlé thread (for nose) + 250g glass beads (lor tummy) + Sinew for attaching eyes, + Extra strong thread (preferably Gutermann) + Quantity of wool stuffing (for nose) ly of “A’ Grade poly-fibre sch aw] and stuffing (ool * Doll needles (a small and an. extra long) + Philips head screwdriver and spanner MATERIALS FOR THE FACE: + Suggested needles: #321, #36T, #387, #40Tand #408, + 1 x high-density foam block (preferably white) + 1.x 25 gram pkt wool fibre in your choice of colour (complementary to your mohair) Finished size ~ 38em (15in) INSTRUCTIONS. Trace all the pattem pieces onto quilters’ template plastic. Be careful to transfer all markings, if you are a new bear maker it may be easier to make a template for each piece of pattern, as some have to be reversed, Mak the direction of the moair (this is called the map) on the back of the fabric before you lay out the pattem, Lay out the pattern pieces on the reverse ofthe fabric, being as economical as possible, but also having regard tothe ‘nap. This is especially important for the hhead pieces and the gusset. Draw around each piece with a very fine permanent marker. When transferring onto dark fabric use or silver gel pen. Mark all joint holes and seam gaps et Draw your paw pads on your piece of ultra suede (reversing both a paw and foot pad), making sure you are drawing on the wrong side. ‘Cut the paw pads out BEFORE CUTTING YOUR MOHAIR check that you have the correct number of pieces drawn on ‘your fabric with the correct number Of pieces reversed,CUTTING OUT ‘Using small sharp seissors, cut out, being careful to cut only the backing fabric and not the fur. (Optional) Using your small scissors, very carefully trim and comb away the seam allowance from each piece, SEAM ALLOWANCE ‘A Smm (approx. 4 in) seam allowance has heen made, and this bear has been designed to be hand-stitched using whipstiteh Covercasting) prior to a small running bbackstitch on each seam, REMEMBER + All pieces are pinned together with fur sides facing + All edges are whipstitched (overcast) then backstitched + Small stitches will give you a better finish METHOD BODY ‘Sew all the darts first Join the body together, leaving ‘openings at the back where indicated for stuffing and the small opening at neck for jointing, Join body sides together and finish as before, Finish off, turn out the right way and release any fur from the seams using a needle ARMS ‘Sew paw pad to inside arm then sew both sides together leaving opening ‘where indicated for stuffing Repeat for other arm, Finish and urn as before, LEGS Sew two sides together, leaving opening where indicated for stuffing. Repeat for other leg Set in foot pad starting at toe and sew towards heel on one side, then repeat on the other side of foot ‘This ensures your pads 30 Beax CRraTions are evenly positioned. Finish and tum as before. HEAD Join chin seam by sewing head sides together between tip of nase and neck (AwB) Keeping the centre ofthe gusset and chin seam aligned, sew the gusset between head sides starting at nose and sewing fowards the back ofthe neck on either side (A to C). This ensures thatthe gussets se in evenly fora straight nose. Finish and turn as before. EARS Sew ears together (as per stitching lines shown on pattern) and leave a decent length of thread for closing, Trim the comers, being careful not to cut your backstitch and turn right side out ‘The bottom edge will easily tum under and using a ladder stitch close the seam, take the thread through the ‘ear tothe comer and Teave ready for attaching to the head, FINISHING THE HEAD Stuff the nose firmly with small pieces ‘of wool filling. Then continue filling ‘with poly-fibre working towards the back of the head. It is most important that the nose is well stuffed, as this vill make stitching the nose easier. Fl to within 5 mm (4 inch) or so of the neck edge, Slip a washer and disc on to the bolt and superglue together to make Jointing easier. Using the doll needle ‘and sinew, sew running stitches around the neck edge. Place the joint in the neck opening and pull the running slitehes tight. Ensure the thread is securely fastened off and lose the ends in the head, INSERTING THE EYES DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE. GOING TO FELT THE FACE Using glass headed pins, mark your eye positions. Make a hole using an awl, large enough to take the eye Joop, being very careful not to tear the fabric. (Providing the fabric is not broken the fibres will close up again after the eye is inserted). Take a length of sinew through the eye loop and thread both ends of the sinew through a long doll needle. Do not crimp the eye loop as this can ‘weaken and break the glass. Insert the needle into the eye socket hole and exit at the back of neck joint Repeat for other eye, exiting in the same position, Pull all threads up lightly, as this will seat the eye into the socket you have sculpted. Tie ends together, and make sure no fur is trapped in the knot, before losing the threads in the head ‘Trim away fur on the face a litle ata time using small scissors or ‘a moustache razor, or pluck clean using pointy nose pliers. ATTACHING EARS Pin ears into position, checking all angles toensure they are leven, Ladder stitch into position using the left-over thread and ensure the thread is secured firmly before losing the ends in the head,NOSE EMBROIDERY DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE GOING TO FELT THE FACI Personally, I prefer to do the nose last, because I can hold the bear better. There's no strict rule here—do what you're comfortable with, ‘Starting from the neck joint, secure along length of the Perlé thread and embroider the nose using satin stitch, (You can download “Beautiful Noses” = Vol.12.No.6 from the ABC website a8 a guide.) Try to keep the tension as even as possible and check from all joint, Pierce joint holes which you Ihave marked on the body and insert joint, Place a disc, washer and lock nut, and tighten using a Philips head screwdriver and a ring spanner. ‘Try to get the joints as even and as Light as possible, as they will loosen when the bear is filled FILLING Taking small pieces of poly-fibre, ‘carefully fill the limbs. When you are happy with the shape and feel of the limbs, close the seams using ladder stitch and secure firmly before losing the threads in the limbs. ‘Stuf the body of your bear using small pieces of poly-fibre, carefully ‘working around the joints. To add ‘weight and give your bear some substance, fill the tummy with glass beads, and then continue adding more poly-fibre When you're happy with the ook and feel of the body, close with adder stitch and finish as before, angles regularly for evenness, JOINTING Using the awl, widen the hole for the head to be joined to the body. Insert the head's bolt end into the hole and from the inside place a dise, washer and lock nut. Tighten lock nut using a ring spanner, Pierce the joint holes ofthe limbs using the avsl and insert an assembled AT THE BOTTOM OF THE GARDEN A combination of applique, stitchery and folded flowers is used to make this gorgeous quilt. Size:45" X 48" Pattern price: Australia $22 Overseas:$24 Postage free. We accept cheques, money orders, Visa and Mastercard. Send a stamped, self addressed envelope for a catalogue. PO Box 124, Mount Evelyn, Victoria, 3796. P:03 97364821 03 97364822 E: bears@teddlywinks.com.au Wholesale enquiries welcome. www.teddlywinks.com.au Bean Ceesnions 31NEEDLE FELTING [Needle felting uses barbed felting needles to interlock wool fibres. When. the needle is plunged into woo! fibres, the barbs (wich occur along one or ‘more edges ofthe triangular eross- section part ofthe felting needle) cause the wool fibres to move and tangle, thas creating a denser material called felt Caution should be used with felting needles, as they are very sharp and one misplaced jab ean cause serious injury. I suggest children or anyone with a visual handicap not use them, as it's necessary to keep a keen eye on the needle during use. ‘There are many sizes of needles available to use for needle felting, but the most popular are the #367, #38T and #407 triangle points and also the #408 star point, ‘The larger the needle 4, the finer the finish ‘The #36T triangle point is most commonly used for course, fast felting, leaving large holes that need to be fine details, such as sculpting faces and other small areas where you want the design to be perfectly shaped. ‘The star point needles have 4 sides With barbs, all of which are excellent for working finer wools (like merino) and the #408 in particular, give a much smoother finish to your work. Felting needles are made from carbon steel and are 76 oF 89mm (3 ‘or 3 inches) long and 2mm or less in diameter. An L-shaped hook at ‘one end makes the needles easier to hold and allows them tobe fited in rmult-needle handles (punches), or needle beds for industrial use. There are ‘multi needle hand tools availabe to hold several needles if you're going to tackle a large project finished witha finer needle, The #38T triangle needle is a great all-purpose felting needle and is wonderful for attaching soft felted items toa surface (ike your teddy bear’s muzzle) and also for layering felted objects together. ‘The #407 triangle needle is used for (CREATING THE FACE: (Note: if you are using Roving or Sliver, where the fibres all layin the ‘one direction, it needs to be pulled apart and laid at cross-purposes to felt at its best) teen Teddy Show Glen Waverley Community Centre 700 Waverley Road map ref.71 B5 Saturday 13th October 10-00am to 4-00pm ) + Trading tables ) + Teddy bears & supplies to purchase + Christmas Teddy Display Wi For more information contact , Brenda(03) 9807-5715 «email preciousdolls@bigpondcom hutpu/www.geocities com/preciousdollsandteddies PP DP LP 32 BeaR CRraTiOons She sa patchwork style chenille bear that sits 31cm, High. ‘Wearing a Blue lace bow with a green rose and a blue set of pears ashe accessories. Pattem=$1400 Free Postage Aus Kit~$50,00 Postage Included (kitincudes pattern, chenille lace, ose, pears bead elastic and eyes) Pink, Geen, flue and Yellow Chenille Fabric avaliable $27 per mere (min length 10cm) caare PHONE: 07 4782 2935 | MOBILE: 0427 829 179 TE See Cola akc WEB: www.katherinefalco.comauStarting with a stuffed head, tim the area of the face that you want to felt, all the way down to the backing. The same rule applies here as trimming your muzzles, trim a litte ata time, as you can always trim more, but you. can’t put it back again, Begin at the nose tip and fan out until you are happy with the shape of your facial outline, Next, take a small amount of wool fibre roughly the size of the area you ‘want to felt and using a #32T felting needle, begin felting it directly into the nose area. You really need t0 push those fibres right into the bear, Continue this way, gradually covering all the trimmed area ‘To add shaping and build some definition, find it easier to felt a bit of the face separate from the head, prior to attaching it. Do this by placing a small ball of woot fibre (roughly the size of the area you wish to emphasise) ‘on your foam biock and pushing your 4#36T needle through repeatedly until it begins to hold a loose ball shape. Place the loose ball over the area you ‘want to shape and felt it into position by pushing your #38T needle through the wool fibre and the mohair backing deep into the wool or poly-fibre filling of your stuffed head. Continue doing ‘this until the piece is well attached, adding more wool to create fullness where it’s required, 1 find using test eyes in the area where you are to position the eyes, helps when ereating the brow and. sockets, Now using your # 40T needle, you can begin to sculpt the area the way you want. For a really smooth all over finish, I prefer use a #408 needle after I have completed. my sculpting. Should you not be happy with your results the first time, you can always use your scissors to carefully cut it off and start again, Although needle felting can take some time to do and like most things worth doing, requires some practice fo master, the resulting curves and details are so much better than you can achieve using mohair alone. FINISHING YOUR FACE AFTER FELTING: ‘The nose is also felted using a small {quantity of black wool fibre and the previous felting techniques, Please follow— Inserting Eyes: paragraphs one and two, Add a litle shading around the eyes if you wish. Groom your bear and weleome him her into the world with a hug, Sandi Smith of Bearly Sane can be ‘contacted at: Phone: (03) 9790 6644 Email: sdsbears@bigpond.net.au Web: wwwbearlysaneteddies.com Bear Mania Graft Studio 5 Elder St Naire SA 5252 We are open by appointment, $0 just give us a call and arrange’a {ime to come and browse, the bears love the company! OR we have a website and provide worldwide mail order service He is made from Ratnee alpaca, has a two piece head, a day nose, eyebrows, paw detailing and some shading. Pattern § 13.50, Kt is $48.50 postin. in Australia. 08 81880166 wowbearmania.com.au email: sk@ bearmania.com.au Bean Creations 33,Artist Helen Gleeson tells how “all” her spare time is spent sewing ARTICLE WRITTEN BY SANDRA WIGZELL 1.2003 Helen Gleeson attended a craft show and saw Jennie Boylan’s Teddy Tree stand, She was instantly captivated by the bears, Hel er, \was already involved in many crafts ‘and was atthe show to look at cross stitching, paper tole, stamping, beading and more, She most certainly was not there to look at another craft, and it was therefore most disconcerting to find that her feet kept bringing her back to that teddy bear stand, Helen soon found herself purchasing Australian Bear Creations magazine ‘and found her way into The Teddy Tree shop an was soon sea being taught by Jo Rhodes of T Teddies. Helen had soon completed her first bear. “T actually sill have him and am quite fond of him. He is really the only “early” bear Thave and he will always be special. Within the year I was ‘own bears, Iwas hooked, have always liked bears but Teaming to make artist bears has given me a new appreciation of the time, skills and techniques involved. 1 is slrange now to see a manufactured that at one time I would have bought. Now I look at them and think. hhhmmm.that’s not mace very well.” Helen considers herself blessed for having some of the best teachers to help her in her early learning stages. howe,“Living in WA Thad access to not only Jo Rhodes, but Brigit Charles and ‘Netta, I started out with a pattern from Bear Creations and then went on to make some patterns designed by these ladies. Jo’s patterns are so original and offer so much scope for creativity, Jo especially encouraged me to use my imagination in combining furs and techniques so that the bears I made Tooked nothing like those on the shelf Helen soon found that she preferred ‘making bears in the 10 10 25.5 em range. “Ihave actually found that nearly all my bears lately have been in the 7.5 to 10em size, so I’m going even smaller,"she laughs. “I love natural colours, browns and creams. Tadore recycling furs, mink especially appeals as it offers the best faces. [ove seeing the faces come to life under my needle. It is amazing to me that you can make a baby come to life with a handful of fur and joints. find it gives me an amazing feeling.” Artists are often asked if they draw inspiration from the fur or look for the perfect fur, so [ask Helen this question, ““To start with I like to pick ‘out a fabric and have it near the couch for a few days so T-can Tet the be develop in my mind before I start cutting. I draw what's in my head, but it wouldn't look like that to other people. I draw the shapes and then develop the face from there.” As Helen often works with recycled furs she is constricted in that many of her pattems must be developed {o suit the fur she has, and she must ‘work around any weak spots in the Teather. So Task her what tools she finds essential to her work, “My curved Ihaemostats, both the three-and-a-halfand five inches - great for stuffing the feet in miniatures and just about anything.” Another tip Helen lives by ‘was given by Jo Rhodes: “I'd be sitting in class with a fur and paw pad material jn one hand and another set in the other, agonizing on which way (0 go or how it ‘would look. Jo would walk past and say “Nike’, which is her way of saying. just do it! IFT was silly enough to ask her opinion, she would say, make both. So now I live by the saying, just do it! Enter that competition, try that pattern oor technique. A miniature is always a ‘good training tool because if you make mistake by a millimetre it will make such a difference. Miniatures are really not very forgiving.” Helen lives 90kms out of Perth and works full-time, so itis only through the support of her husband that she ‘manages to make between two to six bears per month. “It depends on what Tam developing as to how many I make, however if Ray didn’t support me in helping me to find time to sew T would find it difficult, [always have ‘a bear with me and a very close friend from work, Lucy, helps with naming them and keeping me motivated... She offers suggestions and encouragement and I count on her honesty with new designs and ideas.” Despite working full-time, Helen has a wonderful website wwwbarecubdesigns.com which is the work of her brother Philip. Through this site collectors can see her new bears and makers can purchase her patterns and kits. “T really don’t get the time to attend bear shows, although every year I vow T will find the time. So I sell mostly from my website and sometimes on durrerBears ana more Renn per ANNU y Original designs by Silvia Durrer ‘Award winning bear artist Artist Bears (one ofa kind, limited and o Commission Bears (have a bear designed and made especially for you) % Golies ‘Patterns and kits Workshops at South Perth, WA or at your home (ingividually designed to your request) *& Giftware (featuring designs by Silvia Durret) + Greeting cards Calico bags ‘% Bear supplies available editions) by Julie Quon Phone: (03) 62343124 Email:quonj@bigpond.com Web wuw ragtagteddies.com 13 Faraday Street, West Hobart "7000 Tasmania Old Pandee — $85 plus postage Please email me at quonj@bigpond.com if you would like to be added to my mailing lst to receive advice of new bears as they become available.ebay. [also sell through The Teddy Tree in WA, Meems Dolls and Beats, Bear Essence in Vietoria and Bears n” Ceramics in New Zealand. Ido try and enter competitions though, as T find the feedback wonderful Helen has had a great deal of success with competitions and has many ‘medallions from shows in Sydney and Brisbane from 2005 and 2006. Many collectors find Helen’s bears easy to pick from her trade mark pully cheeks and baby “cub look, She also has a rather large collection of accessories for her little creations. “I like to give them something to hold, like an ice cream or cherry. [am careful that the accessories are always of good. yy and in proportion but yes in making her bears. “The support of iy family and friends, Without my husband Ray looking after me so well T would not get anything made, My Cees een ranted Ueaeo lc) A ed aac n en Ren een ec AC Od te ko www.teddytree.com.au brother is wonderful with my website and my mother is always supportive as well. Lucy at work has been a great ‘motivator. Without these people, who believe in me and encourage me, it would be really hard. Having held one of Helen’s little ccubs myself and seen how they can twine around your heart with their Popes LiKe and Gh Sad soulful eyes I can attest to their appeal and sweet faces. Visit her website at your heart’s perl. Helen Gleeson of Bare Cub Designs can be contacted at: Phone: 0400 797 700 Email: Helen@barecubdesigns.com Website: www.barecubdesigns.com We havea lovely range of smal buttons for dlls and bears: Beautiful antique cared shell ond mother-of pear tiny glass buttons, rustic bone, chin and metal buttons, dizmantes, Victorian boot buttons, tiny shell and metal bulls. We alo cll many other vintage buttons including bakelite, celluloid, lucite, Czech glass, casein, shell and a fibulous range of genuine Art Deco buttons and BucklesPROFILE — Kris MEARES sam is Top Dog to the Bears Kris tells how her childhood friend still rules! ris’s favourite toy asa child fas a home-sewn sausage dog wught from a Scottish fair when she was two. He is made from brown, corduroy and she named him Sam, Many ‘years down the track, and despite losing ‘Some fur along the way (vaccination banc/-aids pull the hair off dogs too), hhe has retired peacefully tothe spare bedroom where he lords itover the bear friends who come to stay. According to Kris he keeps them all in line because the wams them how she will cutoff their 38 Beax CRrarions body parts with the car door, pointing to bis stumpy tail which was lost in such a ‘manner many years ago (an accident he has long forgiven her for), Kris has always been a stuffed animal collector but started to become a discriminating collector in the late 1990s. She took a bear making class to learn what to look for in a well-made bear and as they say the rest is history! Kris buys any bear that ‘calls’ to her, although she claims that her husband remains deaf (o such calls! ‘To my question of how many bears she actually has, she gives me a horrified look and asks “Will my husband see this?” After a burst of laughter she adds: “Just kidding! He doesn’t mind the ever-growing bear population so long as I don’t blow the budget too much and his side of the bed is left clear! He says the day the bears take over his side Of the bed is the day he puts his foot down. Umm, somewhere around 50 10 60, I’ve not ever counted them andthe population is kind of flu I keep making bears, then giving them away!” ‘Apart from having a distinctive voice, the bears must have a lovely ‘open arm, cuddly look. “That warm, appealing, fuzzy, open arm cuddle will get me every time,” laughs Kris. ‘Also, I'm attracted to them if they are dressed as a character that really Suits their looks, not just a ‘costume’ I'm still looking Merlin bear that catches my fan! Another larg: collection is my friendship with Tacqui Rose of Bears on the Whart at Mooloolaba, Queensland. L always cend up with a quirky bear from the to join my hug. Th: iff and Hermann from there, Both are Harley Davidson bikie Kris has also adopted her husband’ childhood bear, made by his aunt According (o Kris he is a poor litlefellow who is now quite threadbare. His nose has faded and he has no eyes but she considers him quite idsome. Jacqui Rose also made Kris a special Hatty bear. “I had seen her at a show but had spent all my ‘play’ money so she made a special cone for me. I was thrilled when she arrived through the mail, Kris loves to visit craft and doll and bear shows, “T often look at e-bay but have never bought from there. Buying a bear for me is like choosing a new friend. I prefer to see their faces and feel the warmth of their cuddle, chat with them and se how they wil fit in at home. I have to buy from a show or shop. Yes, th love is definitely in the fur Tove the feel of shows. T recently traded at a small show in my. home town with my pattern range ‘Tag Along Teddies. It was fun to be on the other side for a change but just as much fun to chat with other craft and teddy lovers.” PATTERN 16 Scpnindat tlt tee fo ale’ fist of BASIC AT 656 oc) oh Pate gs Sd PUULIT 65 psp ‘aie Ki pos Sting ‘trend. The D1 BEAR MAKING Woxtsnor ean oe! Pipes deity resenting “Della”, a tattered "mohair bear for you %9 adopt. ahaa Ti ete et Mani watpane, Te ii sen Bs» Ea heb ae 0 Box 6130, Conde, ACT 2906 hasta » Phone ex: (02) 62940917 Tech (A (5) 31275 and res nde) Ph 887.2027“AL shows [tend to be drawn to fables with creative and costumed teddies, or teddies that look like me. I design bears that look like me too! Short pudgy legs, tubby tumm and a happy face! You could almost say a traditional bear, but I'm not into cutsie bears at all. I would love to have bears from Lisa Dopking, Monica Spicer and Jacqui Rose, as 1 love her pocket size bears. All sizes appeal to me, but really they have to open their arms and call to me! Kris has leat a lot from making her own bears and teaches basic bear making and stitchery techniques at a local church eraft group. Discovering that many of the ladies were intimidated at the thought of expensive ‘mohair, she set out to design simple bear patterns that could be made from temry toweling and chenille-type fabrics and stil look cuddly and lovable. Kris’s patterns can be seen at www:tagalongteddies.com 2008 ULTIMATE TOURS TEDDY TOTAL & GRAND EUROPE TOUR 240" APRIL 18™ MAY 2008 * NORTHERN GERMANY * COPENHAGEN * BERLIN“ DRESDEN PRAGUE * VIENNA* BUDAPEST “LJUBLJANA * VENICE* BEARS, BOHEMIA & BEAUTIFUL VENICE Cost est AS12995 sumrnen serum maerrgr Te SSo cian enone Extend to Florence & Rome CLAIRE & NORM NEWELL PO BOX 412, BUDERIM, QLD 4556 PH/ FAX 07 5445 6532 clairebears@ozemall.com.au esi) http://l.a.bears.tripod.comA sweet bear with sec sonal cheer designed by Melanie Grassam of New Bearland, New Zealand ‘Fat 1/16 of short pile (approx 10mm in length) synthetic or mohair ‘10cm x 6em of matching ultra suede/paw pad fabric ‘= 8mm black glass eyes * Sply black Perle cotton +5 x 20mm Cotter pin joints + Matching thread + Strong thread or sinew + Polyester stuffing liver (Sg) + Green felt (Sem x Sem) ‘Needle felting needles (eg. 367 and 407) lease read all the instructions carefully before starting Holly. ‘Test your fabric for its needle felting suitability before Starting the project ie ‘make sure that when the fur is cut back that the fabric backing does not run ladder and that the needle Felting process does not cut the fabrc’s backing fibres. Lay out the pattern pieces onto the back of the fabric making sure that ‘the fur runs in the same direction as + Small block of foam rubber + Fine tipped marking pen + Sharp scissors + Fray stop liquid (optional) + Sewing needle + Tweezers or hae! + Awl "Test eyes (optional) + Long doll needle *Pins + Stuffing tool + Fine tip pliers or Cotter pin turer + Wire brush stats Finished size: 1Sem (6”) the arrows, Trace and add the relevant markings. Prior to cutting out check that all the required pattern pieves have been traced onto the fabric. Carefully cut out, making sure to cut only the backing fabric and not the fur, Use fray stop on the raw edges if required. Trace and cut out the foot pads. small backstiteh when Use sewing the pieces together. A 3mm seam allowance has been included in the pattern.NEEDLE FELTING INSTRUCTIONS, ‘The following is a brief outline on how to needle felt. Ifyou are a beginner ‘you may want to practise making the needle felted shapes, and/or consult a needle felting book ot website that gives more detailed instructions, before commencing the project. ‘When needle felting you should generally begin with the larger of your needles (eg. 361) and change tothe finer needles (e.g. 401) when finishing of, In the instructions I have given the actual weight of wool required for each piece. If you do not have scales that measure milligrams (mg) you will need to estimate the amount ‘of wool required. An easy way to do this is to take a wad of wool and 44 Bean CRrarions serunchiroll it into the shape you require as tight as you can with your hands. This gives an indication of how big the piece will be once it has been needle felted. Add or remove ‘wool to the wad if necessary. Always remember that if you are making two identical pieces, to estimate the required amount of wool for both of them at the same time as this will aid in achieving two finished products of the same size ‘To make a small ball scrunch/roll the ‘wool roving into a ball shape, leaving a small tal of woo! fibres. Holding onto the tail, pokefjab the ball shape with the needle felting needle (using the foam block as a work surface) while continuously tuming and rotating the ‘all slightly between jabs. Continue to needle felt until the desired shape and firmness is reached, Itis important to poke the needle ‘deep into the ball (or even all the way through) as this will help produce a ball of even firmness. ‘To make a shallow cup serunch/roll the wool roving into a circular dise shape, leaving a small tail of wool fibres. Holding onto the tail, ‘poke/jab the disc shape with the needle felting needle (using the foam block as a work surface). Needle felt both the top and bottom of the die, flipping it over regularly. Occasionally needle felt the dise’s edge to keep it ‘smooth and tidy. Once the dise has reached half firmness, stat to focus ‘on the top of the dise more; start a the centre of the dise and gradually move out to Just short of the edge. A hollowicup shape will start to form, encourage this by also shaping it with ‘your fingers. Continue to needle felt until the desired firmness is reached. HEAD lace the two side head pieces ether, right sides facing, and between A and B. Place 2 front ofthe head gusset am of the side head htsides facing inwards, Tack and then sew from point Ato the nape of the neck (C) on each side, Using the awl, free any trapped fur from the seam edges and then turn the head right side out. Stuff the head firmly and evenly. Run a gathering stitch around the head's neck edge using fa strong thread. Thread a washer and. then a disc onto a Cotter pin and insert the dise end of the Cotter pin joint into the head's neck opening with the Cotter pin’s “legs” protruding out. Tighten the gathering stitch around the Cotter pin, ‘knot securely and bury the threads. FACE Cheeks ‘Weigh out two 500mg (0.5g) wads of ‘white wool, Place one aside. Neel felt a smal ball, Feaving the smal tail of| ‘woo fibres altached. As the cheeks are further needle felted on the bear’ face, ‘only needle felt the ball nti it is % firm, Repeat for the other cheek. Check to ‘make sure both cheeks are the same size, ‘The finished diameter of Holly's cheeks is approximately 15mm each, Nose ‘Weigh out a 100mg (0.12) wad of red ‘wool. Needle felt a small ball, leaving the smal til of woo! fibres attached. Aste nose is further needle felted on the bear’ face, only needle felt the ball ‘until itis % fim, The finished diameter of Holly's nose is approximately 9mm. ‘Mouth ‘Weigh out a 200mg (0.28) wad of White Wool. Needle felt a small shallow ccup shape, leaving the small tail of ‘wool fibres attached. Needle felt the ‘mouth until it is nearly firm, ‘The finished size of Holly's mouth is approximately 12mm (width) x 15mm (length). FACE ASSEMBLY Use the photos of Holly as a guide. ‘To give an indication of the area of ‘muzzle fur that needs to be trimmed back, place the needle felted cheeks, ‘mouth and nose on the muzzle. Trim back any muzzle fur which will Lie beneath the needle felted pieces. Place a needle felted cheek on the side of the muzzle with its tail atthehead end of the muzzle facing inwards Using the larger needle carefully poke the cheek’s tail deep into the muzzle to anchor it into place and then needle felt the cheek onto the muzzle making sure to cover up any of the trimmed fabric Con that side ~ this will slightly distort’ flatten the ball shape of the cheek but try to keep it as round as possible, Repeat for the other cheek. Needle felt the edges of the cheeks together, where they meet at the mouth seam, so that there is no gap. Thread the black no.f Perle cotton onto a long doll’s needle and enter the back of the head emerging at the mouth seam at the base of the checks.Insert the needle back into the head at point A exiting at the back of the head. Pull the threads firmly and bury both ends securely in the head, Place the needle felted nose on top of the muzzle (near point A of the head) between the two cheeks with is tail facing downwards. Using the larger needle carefully poke the nose’s ail deep ‘Nana's Teldies bave negotiated a bulk purchase on the last Sti ily Australian Exclusive bears available and are able to offer readers the STEIFF best deal on a Steif limited edition that we have ever seen. TILLY AT 2 PRICE Tilly is a beautiful mohair Steiff Australian Exclusive limited edition release. Only 1500 were made. More information on Tl isin his months “Bear Necessities” ‘on page 64. Normal retail on her is $599 a great price fora Steff exclusive. The first 40 readers to contact Nana’s Teddies & Toys can purchase Tilly and her friend for the amazing price of ONLY $299 plus Nana’s will offer you FREE. MEMBERSHIP to their huge collectors club which gives you permanent discounts 6on all future purchases as well as regular club exclusive offers and specials. ‘This offer is limited to the first 40 readers to contact Nana's Teddies & Toys. ‘You can either phone them on 02 47 390677 or email them at bears@teddys.com.au Offer is also available to our international readers. SEE ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL STEIFF COLLECTABLE Normally $599 BEARS AND OVER 14000 TEDDY BEARS AT | Readers’ Offer WWW.TEDDYS.COM.AU $299 EXCLUSIVE STEIFF READERS’ OFFER{nto the muzzle to anchor it into place, and then needle fet the nose onto the ‘muzzle making sure to cover up any of the trimmed fabric on the nose area Keep the nose as round as possible, Place the needle felted month (cup facing upwards) on the centre bottom of the muzzle with its tail facing towards the neck, Using the larger needle carefully poke the mouth’s tail deep into the muzzle to anchor it into place then needle felt the side edges of the mouth onto the muzzle leaving the ‘mouth end open. Using the pins, or test eyes, experiment with the eye placement. Once you are happy with the look, use the awl to make a hole into the head at each eye position. Thread the strong thread, or sinew, onto along do's needle and insert the needle into one of the av holes, exiting at the centre back of the neck as elose to the neck joint as possible. Remove the needle and thread it back on to the thread protruding from the awt hole. Thread on an eye and insert the needle into the av! hole, exiting at the second awl hole. Thread the second eye onto the needle and insert the needle into the second av hole exiting as close as possible to the thread atthe back of the neck. Knot the two threads together, tightening firmly to embed and secure the eyes. Bury the thread ends into the head. Using the finer needle, continue to needle felt the cheeks, nose and, to a lesser extent, the mouth until they are firm and smooth in appearance. Make sure to maintain the roundness of the cheeks and nose as much as possible While maintaining coverage of the ‘muzzle with the felting. Using the awl, free any trapped fur from under the needle felkings’ outer edge, EARS Place two ear pieces together, right sides facing, and sew using along thread around the curved edge of the ear, leaving the straight edge open. Using the awl, free any ‘trapped fur from the seam edge and ‘then turn the ear right side out, Ladder stitch the straight edge closed leaving the remaining thread attached. Repeat for the other ear, 46° Beax CRrarions Using the pins experiment with ear placement and once you are happy with the look, and the ears are evenly placed, attach to the head with the long thread using ladder stitch, BODY Sew the darts on the body pieces close Place the two body pieces together, right sides facing, and sew around the body leaving an opening as noted on the pattem. Using the awl, free any trapped fur from the seam edge and then turn the body right side out ARMS Place two arm pieces together, right sides facing, and sew around the arm. leaving an opening as noted on the pattern, Using the awl, free any trapped fur from the seam edge and then tum, the arm right side out, Make a stall hole atthe joint marking on the inside arm with the awl, Thread a washer and then a dise onto a Cotter pin and place it inside the arm through the opening, in the arm’s seam. Insert the ‘legs’ of the Cotter pin through the aw hole and ‘then stuff the arm firmly and evenly. Close the opening using ladder stitch, Repeat for the other arm, LEGS Place two leg pieces together, right sides facing, and sew around the leg (D0 F), leaving open the foot pad and the opening as noted on the pattern. ‘Tack and then sew the foot pad to the leg, right sides facing inwards, ‘matching the top centre ofthe foot pad to the toe seam ofthe leg (D) and the bottom centre ofthe foot pad to the heel seam of the leg (B). Using the awl, free any trapped fur from the seam edges and then turn the leg right side out. Make a small hoe atthe joint marking on the inside leg with the awl Thread a washer and then a dise ‘onto a Cotter pin and place it inside {he leg through the opening in the leg’s seam, Insert the ‘legs’ ofthe Cotter pin through the awl hole and then stufT the leg firmly and evenly. Close the ‘opening using ladder stitch. Repeat for the other leg ASSEMBLY ‘Make a small hole atthe neck of the ‘body with the awl and insert the head’s Cotter pin, Thread a dise and then a ‘washer onto the Cotter pin inside the body and then turn each “leg” of the Cotter pin, using the fine tip pliers or Cotter pin turner, until tight. Repeat the process for the arms and legs using the joint markings on the body asa tide for placement. Stuff the body firmly and evenly and close the ‘opening using ladder stitch, FINISHING Brush te seams to free any trapped fur Cut out evo holly Feaves from the green felt and needle felt thre berries, as per the nose instructions, but needle ‘el until firm and tim off the wool fibre tails to form balls. Stitch the holly to the bear’s neck, leaves first. ‘Melanie Grassam of New Bearland il: newbearlandbears@yahoo.com shsite: www:newbearland.comSettler Bears and International Children’s Care (ICC) need your help to find happy homes for beautiful Roxy bears. [ As a limited offer, Settler Bears will donate to ICC 100% of the money raised from the sale of every Roxy. So, by “adopting” a Roxy, you not only enjoy | the special Settler Bears experience, but also share the warmth of knowing you are helping ICC find loving _| foster homes for destitute children throughout the world. To participate, please: * Send your cheque/money order for $40.00 plus postage (per Roxy) to the address below. OR + Complete your credit card details below, and fax/email or post your order to the details at the bottom of this page. For more information on ICC, please visit their website- www.iccaustralia.org.au Please charge my credit card Card holders name International Children’s Care ——_— Shop 7 Riviera Plaza, Dvisa Mastercard Bairnsdale, Victoria 3875 Card Number: Ph - (03) 5152 5774 Fax - (03) 8660 2967 email - info@iccaustralia.org.au Expiry date:A dress for all occasions designed by Dawn of Bear Wear + Sem (19%/in) voile or cotton fabric ‘+ Matching sewing thread. #2 press studs + 2m (2 L/4yd) edging lace + 20cm x 6mm (8 x V/4in) elastic Trace the pattem from the pattern sheet. A 3mm seam allowance is included in the pattem, ‘The dress bodice is self-lined. Stitch the bodice front to the back at the shoulders and do the same for the lining. Fold the bodice and lining with right sides together and stitch around the neckline. Clip the curves and turn the bodice right side out. Overlock or neaten the armholes and trim them with gathered edging lace. Use a small stteh to hold the lower edge of the front and back armholes together. ‘Cut the fabric for the skirt 6lem x 1 Lem and gather the top edge to fit the bodice. Pin the skirt to the bodice, leaving a Smm ses at the centre back edges, then stitch it in place. Overlock the hem an trim it with gathered edging lace. Overlock mallowance free + General sewing requirements Finished size - to fit a 21cm (8i/ain) bear the centre back edges of the skirt and ‘um a Smm hem. Attach press studs to the back bodice. stitch the bloomers together at the centre front and back seams from the waist to point A. Attach lace to the leg hems, attach elastic to the hems using a zigzag stitch and stretch the elastie slightly as you sew. Attach elastic to the waist in the same ‘manner, Stitch the inside leg seams and neaten the edges, Note: If you are using natural fabrics ‘you might like to tea-dye the outfit for ‘country look by dunking it in cold tea until you achieve the desired colour. For more information contact Dawn of Bear Wear on Phone: (03) 9796 4183 Mobile: 042.678 071. Instructions and pattern for cardigans are available for $5mother and baby duo to delight anyone Designed by Merilyn Pursell of Bearwildered Bears + 13mm Cotter pin joint (Babee head) 4 curly mohair + Mastex thread + 10x 20cm dense white mohair * Copie pens (warm 2 and warm 3) 4 short sparse mohair * Cotter pin tumer + Ultra suede + Flat head and Phillips head serew + 12mm eyes (illabee) rivers + 6mm antique eyes (Babee) + Super Glue (for eyelids) + Sply Perle thread for nose + Tapered awl +4 35 disc joints Gillabee) + Sewing needs +6 x 30 dise joint Gillabee) +5 slotted screws and nuts Finished size: Jillabee 40cm (16in) #10 washers to suit Babee 18cm (Tin) Photocopy pattern onto lightweight censure that all are on the right fabric, ccard (120 -150 gsm). Cut out. Mark ‘When cutting, use sharp scissors and limb positions and openings with a only cut the backing fabric not the fur notch. Ensure that all pattern pieces are pile. A seam allowance of 3-#mm has Taid out with the nap of the mat been included, and reversed where necessary. This ‘There are 3 basic hand stitches you pattem has many contrast pieces so need to know: ‘Back stitch (BS) ‘Hand overcast stitch (HOC) Ladder stitch \ ( F \ Z , SHand overcast and back stitch ‘contrast muzzle to side head. Hand overcast and back stitch chin seam, Hand overcast and back stitch head gusset darts closed, Hand overcast and back stitch gusset into position. Is a good idea to use a few small stitches to hold the centre of the muzzle to the chin seam and muzzle to side head at eye position. Start to sew from back and work to centre of chin seam, Repeat for other side. “Tum to right side, Stuff head firmly paying attention to nose. Stuff heads very firmly. Shape head as you stuff. Stuffing isan art, you can’t {just push filling in and hope for the best. Ttneeds to be manoeuvred and placed in the head to keep a pleasing head shape. ‘Trim fur away from the muzzle just up to lower sculpting. See photo 1 Hold head up and trim fur from Under chin so your bear has a profile See photo 2. ‘Trim fur from eye position to under chin to define muzzle. You can use a template to trace around for nose position. See photo 3. SIMPLE SCULPTING ‘The same technique is used for both, Jillabee and Babee. ‘Thread doll needle with Mastex and anchor in stuffing at open neck, 1. Push needle through head and ‘come out about Smm above eye socket. ‘See photo 4, 2. Take a stitch 6 to 8mm down the seam of the muzzle and push needle through to other side. See photo 5. 3. Take a stitch 6 to 8mm up the seam ‘of the muzzle and push needle through 10 other side. See photo 6, Repeat steps I-3 three times, pulling ‘Mastex tight as you go. Lower Jaw sculpting, Push needle through muzzle to outer ‘mouth position, See photo 7, ‘Tack a stich across under chin and push needle in at other outer mouth position, Bring needle out at opposite lower stitch eye sculpting. Pull tight. ‘See photo 8, ‘Now push needle through muzzle to other upper stitch eye sculpting position, CyPhot 7 ‘Take a stitch down muzzle, push needle through lower stitch and out at outer mouth. See photo 9. ‘Take stitch from outer mouth to chin seam, bringing out at lower eye sculpting, See photo 10. Repeat for other side. See photo 11 ‘and overcast and back stitch ears. ‘Turn to right side and ladder stitch opening closed. ‘Pin front of ear to the highest part of the head just below the gusset. Roll the ear towards the back of the head. Pin {nto position ‘Use tight stitch to anchor the ear at both pinned positions then ladder stitch the middle, first at the back and then in the front. “Then push the needle through the head to the other ear and take a stitch through the other ear and back again pall firm, ‘This will tuck the ends ofthe ears in so they look like a part ofthe head. See photo 12, NECK BOLT lace washer then disc on slotted screw: and place in open neck. You may need to add extra stuffing for a firm fit, 8. Runa gathering stitch around neck and pull up tight, Sew over and across, lacing the opening closed, to secure the neck ‘edge over the joint closed. LEGS Hand overcast and back stitch around legs from heel to toe, leaving the opening in back and bottom of foot open, Hand overcast and back stitch ultra suede toes to foot section, making sure that the sculpting points will show on the right side Hold foot pad in position at heel and toe with a tacking stiteh, Hand. ‘overcase and back stitch into position, ARMS Hand overcast and back stitch ultra suede fingers to paw section, making sure, Making sure that the sculpting. points will show on right side Hand overcast and back stitch paws to both inner arms, Hand overcast and back stitch outer ‘arms to inner arms leaving opening for stuffing and jointing. BODY Hand overcast and back stitch darts in both bodies. Hand overcast and back stitch body together leaving opening for stuffing. Now fold body so front and back seams are together. Hand overcast and back stitch around shoulder and neck darts. ‘Tum all pieces to right side. EYES Use test eyes to determine eye position. Thave put them very low on the face. 2 ‘at BeaRCreanions 53‘Cat two lengths of Mastex 30cm long, “Thread eyes using a lars head knot ‘One at time, thread both ends of thread through the long doll needle, Push awl into position of test eye, remove awl and push needle through muzzle to nder chin, repeat for other eye. Pull tight. Tie ends off together, Re-thread and push needle back through head to hide ends. Cut two eyelids using eyelid template (out of ultra suede. Fold in half and add a drop of super glue tothe comer ofthe folded edge. Tuck this edge under the inner comer of Jilabee’s eye with help of the awl, Repeat with glue and tuck eyelid under outer comer of Jillabee’s eye. Using the awl, tuck the rest ofthe eyelid under. NOSE ‘Use a padded satin stiteh for Jillabee’s nose, Use a strong needle threaded with Pere thread. Start with a horizontal stteh to pad the nose. 54 Bax CREATIONS ‘Add the mouth, bring needle out at A, in at B, out at C and back through at the top of the nose under the padding. Anchor well. Use a close neat vertical satin stitch to finish the nose, ASSEMBLY HEAD FIRST Hold prepared head against the body to determine the head position. See photo 13. Use av to make a hole in body at head position. Using a spanner and flat head serew driver, tighten the bolt anticlockwise, See photo 14, BS. LEGS AND ARMS “Thread washer then dise ‘onto bolt, Push hole into inner leg with tapered awl, Now push bolt through hole. Push hole into leg Position in body with tapered awl. Push bolt through hole. ‘Scupltng fingers aed toes Sculpting fingersAdd dis, then washer and nut With screw driver and spanner, tighten as tight as you can, ‘Then undo 1\4 turn, You should be able to just fit the tip of your finger nail beiween the joint. Do both legs first then arms, ‘tuft body firmly Use ladder stitch to close the body. SCULPTING FINGERS AND TOES Paws and feet must be stuffed firm ‘with no lumps and bumps. Stuff just up toelbow. ‘Thread a long needle with approx Im of Mastex. Tie a large knot in fone end and anchor with back stiteh to stuffing Push needle through limb and out at point 1, take a stitch across and push needle into point 5 and out ata, ‘Make a small stitch over seam and push needle back through atA and bring out at 1 ‘Take a stitch across from 1 10 2 and bring out at B. ‘Make a small stitch over seam and push needle back through at B and bring out at 2. ‘Take a stitch across from 2 to 3 and bring out at €. ‘Make a small stitch over seam and push needle back through at Cand bring out at 3 “Take a stitch across from 3 t0 4 and bring out at. Make a smal stitch over seam and push needle back through at and bring out at 6. Go across te top from 6 and go back in at 4 and out at D. These stitches form what looks like a grub, Forming the toes or fingers Take a stiteh from D over the top and in at 4, and out at C. Pull firmly. ‘Take a stitch from C over the top and in at 3, and out at B. Pull firmly. ‘Take a stitch from B over the top and in at 2, and out at A, Pull firmly. ‘Take a stitch from A over the top and in at 1, and out at 5. Pull firmly. For feet only: take a stitch through foot and out at E, a small stiteh back in at E and out at F pull, repeat this last step three times fo form instep. ‘Stuff the rest of the limb firmly and ladder stitch opening closed. KNOBBLY KNEES AND ELBOWS ‘Trim fur away from elbows and knees. Secure Mastex threaded needle at top of knee with a back stiteh, ‘Take a diagonal stitch through knee and come out under knee. ‘Take a stitch across under the knee approx 14mm, Push needle in and make a diagonal stitch up through knee and come out approx 14mm away from anchoring stitch. Repeat three times for elbows and knees. SHADING I've kept this simple. Using a Copie pen, warm 2, lightly draw ovals on each finger or toe Shade the outside ofthe oval in ‘warm 2. Ths will eave a light oval shape in the middle of each finger ortoe. Run warm 3 around sculpting stitches and seam where ultra suede meets fut BABEE Prepare Babee’s head as for Jillabee ‘except for neck joint ‘Thread dise onto Cotter pin, Run stitch around neck opening, poll tight and lace closed. Hand overcast and back stiteh around limbs, Hand overcast and backstitch dart in body. Hand overcast and backstitch body together. ‘Turn to right side Make hole with av in body and push Coter pin through. Thread on other joint and use a Coiter pin turner to wind the end of the Cotter pin. ‘Stuff limbs and body and close with Tadder tite Pin arms and leg into position. ‘Usea long needle threaded with Mastex. Push needle from inside limb {outside limb Take a small fitch back through limb, through body and continue {roh oer limb, Make a small sith back through this Limb, through body and ‘ut through first limb. Repeat three times foreach limb, pulling tightly as you go. Come out between the limb and ‘body. Tie off and sink back into bear. Merilyn Pursell of Bearwildered Bears ‘ean be contacted through: Philip's Ted-E-Bear Supplies Phone: (02) 8883-2461 Fax: (02) 8824-7463 Address: 7116 Adolphi Street, Rouse Hill NSW 2155 Australia Web: www:teddysbits.com Kits for Jllabee and Babee «are also available at Philip's Ted-E-Bear Supplies. ° BeanCreanions 55