FORMULIENCE™

PolyAquol™ 2W
naturally emulsifying™
 Key features Non-ionic, PEG-free Wide pH range compatibility
Naturally derived Can be added in water or oil phase
Completely self-emulsifying Generates liquid crystal structures
Independent of HLB Protects and repairs skin barrier
Compatible with oils of various function
polarity

Molecular basis Hydrogen bond

interactions between individual
components
Lipophilic environment between
aliphatic chains trapping
the “oil phase”
Hydrophilic environment
created by hydrogen bonds holding
the “water phase”

O OH OH
O O OH
HO O O
OH OH O
HO OH
O OH
O OH
HO O
OH O
HO OH
O OH OH
O O OH
HO O O
OH OH O

Liquid crystal formation by PolyAquol™–2W (400X)

Bright field illumination Polarized light

Dermatological Proposed interaction of PolyAquol™-2W with the lipid

layers of the stratum corneum
action
HO

HO O OH O

The molecular configuration of the main component of PolyAquol™ –2W allows for
an interaction with the lipidic matrix of the stratum corneum

PolyAquol™ –2W could help stabilizing the integrity of the skin barrier function
 Performance and emulsifying properties
PolyAquol™–2W and standard emulsifiers – high viscosity and superior stability
Vegetable Viscosity Stability
Emulsifier
oil (cPs)* (1 month at 50°C) 12000

Glyceryl Stearate, 10000

300 Unstable
PEG-100 Stearate
8000

Viscosity (cPs)
Cetearyl Alcohol,
5% 4 500 Unstable
Ceteareth-20 6000

PolyAquol™–2W 7 500 3Stable 4000

5% 2000
Glyceryl Stearate,
1 600 Unstable
PEG-100 Stearate 0
5 10
Cetearyl Alcohol,
10% 7 300 Unstable Vegetable oil concentration (%)
Ceteareth-20
PolyAquol™–2W
PolyAquol™–2W 10 400 3Stable Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm

PolyAquol™ –2W outperforms standard O/W emulsifiers in providing stable emulsions with high viscosity

PolyAquol™–2W and polyglycerol-based emulsifiers – superior efficacy

Vegetable Viscosity Stability 20000
Emulsifier
oil (cPs)* (1 month at 50°C) 18000
16000
Polyglyceryl-3- Distearate 3 600 Unstable 14000
12000
Viscosity (cPs)

Polyglyceryl-3- 10000
3% 12% 1 550 Unstable
Methylglucose Distearate
8000
6000
PolyAquol™–2W 6 300 3Stable 4000
2000
Polyglyceryl-3- Distearate 5 350 Unstable 0
3 5
Polyglyceryl-3- Emulsifier concentration (%)
5% 20% 3 250 Unstable
Methylglucose Distearate
PolyAquol™–2W
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
PolyAquol –2W ™
18 000 3Stable Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm

PolyAquol™ –2W out performs polyglycerol-based emulsifiers in providing stable emulsions with high viscosity
PolyAquol™ –2W emulsifies oils up to a 1:4 ratio without the need for thickeners
 Addition to water or oil phase to obtain a gel or an emulsion

Addition of PolyAquol™–2W to water – Gel formation and pH stability

Centrifugation Viscosity Stability
PolyAquol™–2W pH (5000 rpm, 60’) (cPs)* (1 month at 50°C) 12000

4.18 OK 2 300 3 10000

8000

Viscosity (cPs)
3% 6.06 OK 2 350 3 6000

4000
8.47 OK 1 925 3
2000

4.20 OK 9 250 3 0
3% 5%

5% 5.87 OK 10 650 3 PolyAquol™–2W (%)

pH 4.00 - 4.50

8.90 OK 6 500 3 pH 5.50 - 6.00

pH 8.50 - 9.00

* Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm

PolyAquol™ –2W self-emulsifies in water forming a stable gel

PolyAquol™ –2W is compatible in a pH range from 4 to 9

Addition of PolyAquol™–2W to the oil phase of an emulsion

– High viscosity without thickener
25000 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis
(Sweet Almond) Oil

20000 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Paraffinum Liquidum
Viscosity (cPs)

15000 Cyclomethicone

10000

5000

0
5% 10% 20%

Oil concentration (%)

PolyAquol™ –2W (5%) can be added to the oil phase forming high viscosity emulsions
PolyAquol™ –2W can achieve high viscosity system without any thickener
 Compatibility with thickeners
PolyAquol™–2W (3%) was formulated with different concentrations of a
vegetable oil in the presence of various thickeners
PolyAquol™–2W Vegetable oil Thickener % Stability
(1 month at 50°C)

Xanthan Gum 0.30 3

12% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
3% 17% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
22% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3

PolyAquol™–2W (3%) was formulated with different concentrations of an

ester in the presence of various thickeners
PolyAquol™–2W Ester Thickener % Stability
(1 month at 50°C)

Xanthan Gum 0.30 3

12% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
3% 17% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3
Xanthan Gum 0.30 3
22% Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 3
Carbomer 0.25 3

Electrolyte tolerance
PolyAquol™–2W (5%) was formulated with different concentrations of NaCl
Viscosity Stability
% NaCl
(cPs)* (1 month at 50°C)

0 (control) 10 400 3 PolyAquol™ –2W is tolerant to electrolytes (NaCl)

0.5 11 200 3 in terms of viscosity and emulsion stability
1.0 11 700 3
2.0 11 200 3 * Brookfield, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm
 Dermatogical efficacy
Maintenance and repair of compromised Repair of UV-induced skin barrier
barrier function function loss
Preventive protocol – pre-treatment products applied after UV exposure – post-treatment

UV Product application
Product applications UV

0 1 10 11 12 13
0 1 10 11 12 Day
Day
30’ 1h 2h 24h
Assessment of TEWL
Assessment of TEWL

Baseline Effect of pre-treatment

Baseline Effect of post-treatment

90 5
80
0

Variation in TEWL (%)

Variation in TEWL (%)

70
60 ** -5

vs baseline
vs baseline

50
-10
40
30 -15 **
20
-20 ** **
10
0 -25 *
Control PolyAquol™–2W 30 min. 1 hour 2 hours 24 hours

** p<0.01 Control PolyAquol™–2W ** p<0.01 ** p<0.05

PolyAquol™ –2W prevents UV-induced skin barrier PolyAquol™ –2W accelerates barrier recovery when
disruption applied post-UV

Actions of PolyAquol™–2W on the skin barrier integrity

PolyAquol™–2W

UV radiation causes breaches in the epidermal barrier

leading to an excessive trans-epidermal water loss
(TEWL). The molecular structure of PolyAquol™–2W
most likely allows for a repair action sealing breaches
and preventing skin dehydration.

UV-induced barrier function Preventive and repair action

damage Maintenance of barrier
Increase in TEWL function integrity
PolyAquol™–2W Background
PolyAquol™–2W (patent pending) is an amalgam of 3 selected components in a
precise ratio allowing inter-molecular interactions between each of them. The aliphatic
chains – mainly composed of stearic acid derivatives – trap oil droplets while the hy-
drophilic heads interact with water through hydrogen bonds. This leads to highly
stable O/W emulsions with numerous applications. The novelty of PolyAquol™–2W
resides in its autonomous emulsifying action without the need of external stabilizer or
co-emulsifier. Working independently from the HLB system, it can added to the water
phase as well as to the oil phase to generate liquid crystals. In addition to its unique
emulsifying capabilities outperforming comparators, PolyAquol™–2W possesses phys-
iological properties. Most likely through biomimetic mechanisms, PolyAquol™–2W clini-
cally prevents and accelerates the repair of the skin barrier function compromised by
an external stress.

Technical information Formulation

INCI: Polyglyceryl-2- Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol

Naturally derived

Ecocert & Cosmos approved

O/W emulsions

Can be added to the water phase or the oil phase of an emulsion

12000

10000
Viscosity (cPs)

8000
– PolyAquol™ –2W can be
6000
added to the water phase or
4000 the oil phase of an emulsion
2000 depending upon the viscosity
0
level targeted
PolyAquol™–2W PolyAquol™–2W
in water phase in oil phase

HLB-independent

Electrolyte tolerant

Form liquid crystals

Self-emulsifies in water forming a stable gel

Compatible with various oils, esters and thickeners

Recommended use level: 1-5%

Efficacy
Clinical actions
Prevents skin barrier function damage

Accelerates repair of compromised skin barrier function

 www.innovacos.com

Innovacos corp.
111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160
Mt. Arlington
New Jersey 07856
info@innovacos.com

© 2013-2014 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved  Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
(04/14)