FRENCHIE FACT SHEET

History
Domestication of Dogs Generally
• Dogs and humans have been living together for more than 12,000 years.
• Genetic studies suggest that all ancient and modern dogs share a common ancestry and
descended from an ancient, now-extinct wolf population (or closely related wolf
populations) that was distinct from the modern wolf lineage.
• Between 15,000 and 30,000 years ago, humans first domesticated animals—the result of
a long-term association between wolves and hunter-gatherers. The dog was the first
species and the only large carnivore to be domesticated. There is clear evidence that dogs
were derived from grey wolves during the initial phases of domestication.
• Humans selectively bred dogs to alter physical attributes like size, color, leg length, mass
and skull diameter to suit their needs and fancies.
• At present, there are more than 400 different dog breeds.

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Origin of French Bulldog
• The French Bulldog is a descendent of the now-extinct Old English Bulldog, itself
derived from ancient war dogs such as the old Mastiff or the extinct Alaunt dog.
• The Old English Bulldog was bred to be a fighting dog. In 1835, the Cruelty to Animals
Act in England outlawed bull-baiting. As a result, the Old English Bulldog rapidly died
out (although dog fighting continued).
• From the beginning, French Bulldogs were bred as companion dogs. In the latter part of
the 19th century, Nottingham lacemakers began selectively breeding smaller English
bulldogs. The lacemakers bred smaller bulldogs as lap pets. The small bulldogs were not
supported by the Bulldog breeders of England. But the English working class liked the
dogs. Eventually, the small bulldogs were called Toy Bulldogs.
• Before the Industrial Revolution, Nottingham was the heartland of English lacemaking.
From 1820 to 1860, lacemaking was mechanized: hand-operated lace frames were
replaced by steam-driven, factory-based machines. Lace workers from Nottingham
settled in Normandy, France, where lace was still made by hand.
• The displaced Nottingham lace workers brought a variety of dogs with them, including
toy bulldogs. The dogs became popular in France and a trade in imported small bulldogs
was created.
• The English sent to France bulldogs that they considered to be too small, or with faults
such as ears that stood up.
• The French crossed the small bulldogs with a terrier type dog to introduce a ratting
instinct into the breed. (Workers lived in close quarters and used dogs to dispatch rats.)
• Small bulldog type gradually became thought of as a breed, and received a name, the
Bouledogue Francais.
• In the late 1800s, French bulldogs were highly fashionable and became very popular in
France. In particular, they were popular with the “belles du nuit” in Paris. They were also
sought after by wealthy families, society ladies, artists, writers, and fashion designers.
Toulouse-Lautrec, the famous artist of Parisian life, liked to place the Frenchie in his
drawings and paintings. Edgar Degas did the same.
• French Bulldogs became so popular that France began exporting them to England.
• Americans visiting Paris brought French bulldogs home with them. In 1896, the first
French Bulldog was exhibited at the Westminster dog show. The next year, it was
featured on the cover of the Westminster catalog, replacing the usual trademark of the
head of a Pointer. In 1897, the French Bulldog Club of America was established. The next
year, in 1898, the American Kennel Club recognized the breed.

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1897 Westminister Kennel Club 21st Annual Dog Show Catalog Cover. The Frenchie is shown alongside his well-
dressed mistress. This is arguably one of the world’s most famous French bulldog paintings. The President of the
French Bulldog Club of America, Jan Grebe, informed the consigner that the dog in the painting appears to be
painted from a picture of a little French bulldog named Ninette, born in France and imported by a man named G. N.
Phelps in 1896.

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Physical Characteristics
• Average lifespan of 11 to 14 years—on par for dogs its size.
o Are “puppies” for first 9-16 mos., but some will keep growing for two years.
o Most dogs are considered adults at a year of age, although some larger breeds still
have some filling out to do up to about two or so years old.
o Considered to be a “senior” at about 7 or 8 years of age.
• At maturity, males usually weight 24 to 28 pounds. Females should weigh 19 to 24
pounds.
• Characterized and known by distinctive “bat ears,” the only breed to have that particular
feature. When the breed first emerged, there was a dispute about the ear shape. Was the
correct ear the bat ear, the rose ear of the Bulldog, or the tulip ear? When Americans
imported the breed, the bat ear was their preference, and it thus became the hallmark of
the breed.
• Short coat—
o Fine in texture and smooth.
o Easy to groom and does not require trimming.
• Either cannot bark or bark very infrequently [Inconsistent information on this point -AG].
• Do not have a high prey drive, though some will chase cats.
• “The French Bulldog makes a wonderful dog for dog folk who live in a small condo or
apartment. His weight is under 28 pounds, his grooming requirements are minimal and he
is intelligent and easily trained. He does not need a lot of exercise and he is a quiet dog,
barking very little.” American Kennel Club.

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Official Standards
Color/Appearance
• “All points are well distributed and bear good relation one to the other; no feature being
in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears poorly
proportioned.” American Kennel Club.
• “Acceptable colors—All brindle, fawn, white, brindle and white, and any color except
those which constitute disqualification. All colors are acceptable with the exception of
solid black, mouse, liver, black and tan, black and white, and white with black, which are
disqualifications. Black means black without a trace of brindle.” American Kennel Club.
• “The only four correct colours are: Brindle; Fawn; Brindle Pied; Fawn Pied . . . . All
other colours highly undesirable, including solid black, black and white, black and tan,
mouse, grey/blue, liver/chocolate and all patterns of these colours.” Pennine & Scottish
French Bulldog Association.

Ears
• “‘Bat ears’ of medium size, wide at base, rounded at top; set high, carried upright and
parallel, a sufficient width of skull preventing them being too close together; skin soft
and fine, orifice as seen from the front, showing entirely. The opening to the ear canal
should be wide and open.” Pennine & Scottish French Bulldog Association.
• “Other than bat ears is a disqualification.” American Kennel Club.
• Bar ears have been the standard since the breed’s inception.

Weight
• “Not to exceed 28 pounds.” American Kennel Club.

American Kennel Club Disqualifications

• Any alteration other than the removal of dewclaws.
• Over 28 pounds in weight.
• Other than bat ears.
• Nose other than black, except in the case of lighter colored dogs, where a lighter colored
nose is acceptable.
• Solid black, mouse, liver, black and tan, black and white, and white with black. Black
means black without a trace of brindle.

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General Care
• Companion dog.
• Brachycephalic breed—
o Derived from Greek “brakhu” (short) and “cephalos” (head)—“short head.”
o Other popular brachycephalic breeds: Bulldogs, Boxers, Shih Tzus, Pugs.
o Abnormally strong openings to the nostrils and relatively long palates. Dogs
prefer to breathe through their noses, and for brachycephalic breeds it becomes
more difficult to breathe because of small nasal openings. Results in
wheezing/snoring while sleeping and increased risk of overheating.
o Folds of skin accumulate moisture which may harbor infection-causing bacteria—
must be cleaned daily.
• Ears stand erect so low risk for ear infections.
• Prone to serious health problems, many of which are hereditary.
• Highly prone to separation anxiety—may develop destructive behaviors if not enough
attention.
• Intelligent breed—training is usually fairly easy.
• Have low energy levels and low exercise requirements—daily walk is adequate.
• Puppies are only capable of controlling their bladder and bowels for ~1 hour per month
of age.

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Socialization
• Research on canine behavior has proven that puppies who are not exposed to new sights,
sounds, people and animals during their first 20 weeks of life will grow up to be timid
and fearful, even aggressive, and unable to flourish outside of their familiar home
environment.
• Took your puppy along on daily errands. Puppies are natural “people magnets,” and most
people who see your pup will want to pet him. All of these encounters will help to mold
her into a confident adult dog. Likewise, you will also grow proud of your dog.
• Most impressionable during first 3-6 mos. of life (AKC says first 20 weeks)—so start
socializing puppy right away. Expose puppy to variety of situations (see list below).
• Appliances
• Strange and unfamiliar objects—
o Brooms/mops
o Flags
o Flashlights
o Strollers
o Mirrors
o Balloons
o Umbrellas
o Plastic bags
o Shopping carts
o Bicycles
• Sights
• Sounds—
o It is natural for dogs to be surprised by loud noises, but you do not want your
French Bulldog to grow up into the kind of dog that hides under the bed during
the slightest storm. Condition your dog to loud noises by helping her form a
positive association with them.
o If you notice that your dog has already started to develop a fear of loud noises,
you can trying distracting her when they happen. For example, if it starts to
thunder, try engaging your dog in a game. Do NOT coddle your dog—that only
teaches her that it is right to be afraid of the thing it fears (you will reinforce the
fear response).
• People—
o Men and women
o Children, babies/toddlers—

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 ▪ Important: Puppies tend to nip at children more often than adults, since
they perceive little ones to be more vulnerable and more similar to their
littermates. Before setting the good loose to play with children, teach
children appropriate responses to the nipping behavior. If the children are
unable to handle it themselves, you may have to intervene.
▪ Puppy nips can be quite painful and a child’s frightened reaction will only
encourage a puppy to nip harder, which is a natural canine response. As
with all other puppy situations, interaction between your French Bulldog
puppy and children should be supervised.
o Tall/short
o Thin/fat
o People in coats
o Women in dresses
o Men with beards
o People with glasses
o Sunglasses or hats
o Long hair/short hair
o Different accents
o Disability/handicap
o Dancing people
o Exercising/running people
• Types of travel—
o Car
o Bus
o Train
o Airplane
o Motorcycle
o Escalators
o Elevators
o Moving sidewalk
• Surfaces—
o Hardwood
o Tile
o Gravel
o Asphalt

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 o Concrete
o Bridges
• Animals—
o Other dogs. Important: make sure that your puppy has received his first and
second rounds of vaccinations before you expose her to other dogs or bring
her to places that other dogs may frequent.
o Cats—Your dog may think that chasing cats is one reason for his existence. You
can try to stop it as much as you like but without success, because it’s such fun for
the dog. But one good hissing, spitting, swipe of a cat’s claws across the dog’s
nose will put an end to the game forever. Intervene only when your dog’s eyeball
is seriously at risk.
o Squirrels
o Rodents
o Birds
o Horses
o Sheep
o Chickens
o Cows
o Rabbits
• Locations—
o Airport
o Grocery store
o Dog park
o Bus station
o Shopping mall
o Outdoor park
o Dog park
o Sporting event
o Coffee shop
o School
o Parking lot
o Office
o Main road
o Dirt road

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Puppy Parent
Generally
• Frenchies are “puppies” for the first 9-16 months. Most dogs are considered adults at a
year of age, although some larger breeds still have some filling out to do up to about two
or so years old.
• Natural births are uncommon because of the Frenchie’s large head, large shoulders, and
small pelvis, so C-sections are almost always necessary.
• Puppies are born blind and deaf. Develop seeing and hearing when they are about 2
weeks old. At 3 weeks old they begin to explore their surroundings. At 4 weeks old they
begin eating puppy food.
• Breeders commonly allow visitors to see the litter by around the 5th or 6th week. Puppies
leave for their new home between the 10th and 12th week.
• Frenchies are born with drop ears. The ears become erect in the first 12 to 16 weeks.
• Be especially careful of your puppy’s encounters and experiences during his first few
weeks at home. This is a serious imprinting period, and all contact during this time
should be gentle and positive. A frightening or negative event could leave a permanent
impression that could affect his future behavior if a similar situation arises.
• You may lose a treasure or two during puppy’s growing-up period, and the furniture
could sustain a nasty nick or two. These can be trying times, so be prepared for those
inevitable accidents and comfort yourself in knowing that this too shall pass.

Puppy Behaviors
• Chewing on shoes.
• Digging in dirt.
• Whining at night.
• Separation anxiety (although this is common mature Frenchies too).
• Using the restroom indoors.

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Puppy Proofing
• Keep your closet doors closed and your shoes, socks and other apparel off the floor so
your puppy can’t get at them.
• Ensure trashcan has a tight-fitting lid or keep it in secured cupboard. [Time to replace our
crash can? -AG]
• Place open food containers in pantry or cupboards or ensure they have lids.
• Put all cleaning products away where puppy cannot reach them. Consider locking cabinet
where you store them just to be safe. You will be amazed at how many places a curious
puppy can discover.
• Remove all small objects from floor and from places that puppy can reach –(choking
hazard).
• Tie or bundle electrical cords/blind cords so puppy can’t play with them.
• Keep open bodies of water covered (toilet, bathtub, outdoor ponds, etc.).
• Ensure none of your houseplants are toxic to dogs. If any are, remove them, move them
out of reach, or fence them off.
• Be mindful of furniture that could hurt puppy (rocking chairs, furniture with sharp edges,
etc.).
• Dispose of all food waste properly: this is especially important for chicken bones and
foods that are harmful to dogs.
• Avoid using chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides where puppy could be exposed.
• Consider applying a bitter product to furniture legs. Available in a spray or cream, this
substance is vile-tasting, although safe for dogs, and most puppies will avoid the objects
that are sprayed with it.

Pedigree vs. Registration Certificate

• “Pedigree” means family tree—the written record of the dog’s genealogy of three
generations of more.
• “Registration” means documentation—the form you complete and send to the American
Kennel Club.

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Supplies/Accessories
• Crate—Come in several types, although the wire crate and the fiberglass airline-type
crate are the most popular. Both are safe and the puppy will adjust to either one.
o Types of crates—
▪ Wire crates—offer better visibility for the pup, and better ventilation.
Many wire crates easily collapse so you can fold it up for travel.
▪ Fiberglass crates—Similar to those used by the airlines for animal
transport. Sturdier and more den-like. But do not collapse and are less
ventilated than wire crates, which can be problematic in hot weather.
▪ Some newer crates are made of heavy plastic mesh: they are lightweight
and fold up into slim-line suitcases. But a mesh crate may not be suitable
for a pup with manic chewing habits.
o Don’t bother with a puppy-sized crate. Although your French Bulldog will be a
small when you bring her home, she will grow up in the blink of an eye and your
puppy crate will be useless. Purchase a crate that will accommodate an adult
French Bulldog. She’s not a tall dog, even when full grown, so a medium-sized
crate will fit her nicely.
o Those old ideas about adding a clock to replace his mother’s heartbeat, or a
hot-water bottle to replace her warmth, are just that—old ideas. A good breeder
would have introduced your puppy to the crate by letting two pups sleep together
for a couple of nights, followed by several nights alone.
o Breeders commonly use newspapers to line their whelping pens, so puppies learn to
associate newspapers with relieving themselves. Do not use newspapers to line your
pup’s crate, as this will signal to your puppy that it is OK to urinate in his crate.h
• Bedding/old blankets and towels—
o To make crate more comfortable.
o Old towels or blankets are good choices for a young pup, since she will probably
have a toileting accident or two in the crate or chew on the bedding material.
o Crate pads and other dog beds run the gamut from inexpensive to high-end
doggie-designer styles, but don’t splurge on the good stuff until you are sure that
your Frenchie puppy is reliable and won’t tear it up or make a mess on it.
• Food/water bowls—should be stainless steel or ceramic: easiest to clean and sanitize,
sterilize better, and pups are less inclined to chew on these material compared with
plastic.
• Toys—
o Not all dog toys are safe or sensible.
o Avoid toys that have buttons, tabs or other enhancements that can be chewed off
and swallowed. Also, avoid braided rope toys: they shred easily and the strings

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 are easy to swallow. The strings are not digestible and, if the puppy doesn’t pass
them in his stool, she could end up at the vet’s office.
o Most young puppies enjoy soft woolly toys that they can snuggle with and carry
around.
o Chew toys—
▪ Although French Bulldogs are not known to be voracious chewers like
many other dogs, they still love to chew.
▪ The best “chewcifiers” are nylon and hard rubber bones, which are safe to
gnaw on and come in sizes appropriate for all age groups and breeds.
▪ Important: Be very careful of natural bones, which can splinter or develop
dangerous sharp edges; pups can easily swallow or choke on those bone
splinters. DO NOT FEED YOUR DOG CHICKEN BONES.
▪ Rawhide chews—a favorite of most dogs and puppies, but can be a serious
chocking hazard. [Best to avoid this one I think. -AG]
o In general, choose a variety of toys and let the puppy decide which ones it likes best.
o An all-time favorite is the empty gallon milk jug.
o Don’t use old shoes or socks to make homemade toys because a puppy cannot
distinguish those from one on which she is not allowed to chew. This principle
applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your Frenchie to
chew up.
o If you think the dog ingested a piece of one of her toys, check her stools for the next
couple of days to see if she passes the item. At the same time, watch for signs of
intestinal distress. Call the vet if there is any concern, or just to be on the safe side.
• Grooming supplies—
o Brush.
o Dog-friendly shampoo.
o Ear cleaning solution.
o Nail clippers.
• Collar—
o Standard flat collar with a buckle or a snap, in leather, nylon or cotton, is widely
regarded as the everyday all-purpose collar.
o If collar fits correctly, you can fit 2 fingers between collar and dog’s neck.
o The martingale, Greyhound or limited-slip collar is preferred by many dog owners
and trainers. It is fixed with an extra loop that tightens when pressure is applied to
the leash. The martingale collar gets tighter but does not “choke” the dog.
• Leash.
• ID tag.

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Crating Issue
For
• David Anderson, 2018—“When you are away from home and when you are asleep at
night, it is best to keep your puppy in the crate – at least until it is crate trained.”
o “In preparation for crate training down the line, you should get your puppy used
to the crate as soon as possible. Try tossing some treats into it and feeding your
puppy meals in the crate with an open door so it forms a positive association with
the crate. Eventually it’ll come to recognize the crate as its own personal space
and will like spending time there.”
o “When you are ready to housebreak your puppy, the ideal method to use is called
crate training. Basically, you teach your puppy to do its business only in one
particular area and supervise it all hours of the day to ensure that it only goes in
that area. When you are unable to supervise your puppy, either overnight or when
you’re away, you should keep it in the crate to keep it confined so it doesn’t have
an accident. If you teach your puppy to like the crate it will come to think of it as
its den, and dogs have a natural aversion to soiling their dens.”
• American Kennel Club, 2005—“Most breeders and almost all trainers recommend a crate
as the preferred house-training aid as well as for all-around puppy training and safety.”
o “Because dogs are natural den creatures that prefer cave-like environments, the
benefits of crate use are many. The crate provides the puppy with his very own
“safe house,” a cozy place to sleep, take a break or seek comfort with a favorite
toy; a travel aid to house your dog when on the road, at motels or at the vet’s
office; a training aid to help teach your puppy proper toileting habits; a place of
solitude when non-dog people happen to drop by and don’t want a lively puppy—
or even a well-behaved adult dog—saying hello or begging for attention.”
o “To make the crate more inviting to your puppy, you can offer his first meal or
two inside the crate, always keeping the crate door open so that he does not feel
confined. Keep a favorite toy or two in the crate for him to play with while inside.
You can also cover the crate at night with a lightweight sheet to make it more den-
like and remove the stimuli of household activity. Never put him into his crate as
punishment or as you are scolding him, since he will then associate his crate with
negative situations and avoid going there.”
o “Be sure to show your puppy his new crate during this first day home. Toss a treat
or two inside the crate; if he associates the crate with food, he will associate the
crate with good things. If he is comfortable with the crate, you can offer him his
first meal inside it. Leave the door ajar so he can wander in and out as he chooses.”
o During the day, the pup investigated his crate, which is his new den and sleeping
space, so it is not entirely strange to him. Line the crate with a soft towel or blanket
that he can snuggle into and gently place him into the crate for the night. Some
breeders send home a piece of bedding from where the pup slept with his littermates,
and those familiar scents are a great comfort to the puppy on his first night without
his siblings. He will probably whine or cry. The puppy is objecting to the

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 confinement and the fact that he is alone for the first time. This can be a stressful time
for you as well as for the pup. It’s important that you remain strong and don’t let the
puppy out of his crate to comfort him. He will fall asleep eventually.
o “Wild or domestic canines have always preferred to sleep in den-like safe spots,
and that is exactly what the crate provides. How often have you seen adult dogs
that choose to sleep under a table or chair even though they have full run of the
house? It’s the den connection.”
o “Clean by nature, dogs do not like to soil their dens, which in effect are their crates or
sleeping quarters. Unless not feeling well, dogs will not defecate or urinate in their
crates. Crate training capitalizes on the dog’s natural desire to keep his den clean.”
• Stanley Coren PhD., DSc, FRSC, March 2012—“Contrary to the information on the use
of tie outs, I knew of no evidence suggesting that the judicious use of kennel crates can
cause problems for dogs. In fact, there is a reasonable consensus among dog behaviorists
which suggests that the use of a kennel crate is extremely helpful in many ways.”
o “A lot of evidence indicates that it is much easier to housebreak a puppy if it is
taken out to eliminate before bedtime, placed in a kennel crate overnight, and then
taken out again to eliminate first thing in the morning. Use of the kennel crate can
also prevent destructive habits from developing, since if the dog is placed in a
kennel crate when one is out of the house for short times the puppy never has the
opportunity to learn about the pleasures of chewing on your furniture.”
o “Many of the negative attitudes toward the kennel crate seem to arise from people
anthropomorphizing. Obviously a human being would not like to have their
freedom curtailed and to be confined to a small space. Indeed, one of the ways
that was used by the North Vietnamese to attempt to psychologically break
prisoners of war was to keep them in small confined cages. However dogs are not
people. The major progenitor of dogs was the wolf, and wolves spend a good deal
of their day in a den. Dens are simply small caves, or burrows that the wolf had
dug out. These often provide just enough space for the animal to stand up and turn
around. The den is viewed by these canines as a place of safety and our domestic
dogs seem to have inherited that behavioral predisposition. A kennel crate can
serve as an artificial den for our pet dogs and when provided with a pad or a towel
to rest on, and perhaps a chew toy, it can become a place of comfort and security.”
• Jongman, et. al, 2018 (scientific study published in Applied Animal Behaviour
Science)—“The results of this study do not provide evidence that the smaller kennels and
limited exercise increase the risks to dog welfare based on behaviour, stress physiology
and injuries. Nevertheless, the observation that dogs tended to spend more time in the
front of the large kennels where they were in view of other dogs could indicate that larger
kennels may enable better welfare by providing additional social contact.”

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Against
• PETA (undated)—“No matter what a pet shop owner or dog trainer might say, a dog
crate is just a box with holes in it, and putting dogs in crates is just a way to ignore and
warehouse them until you get around to taking care of them properly.”
o “Crating is a popular “convenience practice” that is often used on adult dogs. It
deprives dogs of the opportunity to fulfill some of their most basic needs, such as
the freedom to walk around, the opportunity to relieve themselves, and the ability
to stretch out and relax. It also prevents them from interacting with their
environment and learning how to behave in a human setting.”
o “Dogs are highly social pack animals who abhor isolation and who crave and
deserve companionship, praise, and exercise. Forcing dogs to spend extended
periods of time confined and isolated simply to accommodate their guardians’
schedules is unacceptable, and it exacerbates behavior problems.”
o “For those who cannot make it home during the day to provide their dogs with a
potty break and some attention, PETA recommends hiring a reputable pet service
or soliciting a reliable person, perhaps a neighbor or relative, to take one’s dog out
for a midday walk. A “doggie door” that provides access to a secure yard with a
privacy fence is another option for giving dogs the opportunity to relieve
themselves as well as for alleviating boredom and preventing neurotic behavior.
Paper training can be another way to handle dogs’ need to relieve themselves
when they can’t go outside. And having an animal friend to keep them company is
another great option for keeping dogs stimulated and content while the human
family members are away.”
• Jessica Pierce, PhD., 2022—“A crate is still a cage, and confining animals in cages is
ethically problematic.”
o “Although caging dogs and other domestic animals is hardly a new idea, the
crate—the cage within a home—has become increasingly popular. Indeed, crates
are often included in the things that all responsible dog guardians have and use,
and many puppy training books recommend “crate training,” which involves
extended periods of confinement to aid in house training.”
o “Crate aficionados claim that dogs like to be in crates. The crate, they say, is a
natural hidey-hole that makes dogs feel calm. A crate is just like a den. This is a
common and sneaky substitution of something unnatural for something natural.
Yes, denning is part of maternal behavior in free-ranging dogs and in other canids.
But no canid lives in a den beyond early puppyhood. On the contrary, dogs are
highly social mammals who need and want to be in close proximity to their family.
Isolating a dog in a crate is one of the most unnatural things we do to them.”
o “Like muzzles, crates are a tool with great value in a very narrow range of
situations. We should consider it a kindness to help all dogs learn to feel
comfortable in a crate. The crate—with the door wide open—can be a safe place
for a dog to go when he or she would like some time alone, needs refuge from
screaming children, other pets, and so forth. Used in this way, the crate increases a

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 dog’s autonomy because she can opt-out of social interactions with others in the
household.”
o “Too often, though, crating is a practice that serves us rather than our dogs.
Crating allows us to go about our own lives without worrying about a dog peeing
on our rug or chewing on our furniture. But this doesn’t necessarily serve our
dogs. We should be mindful about our crating practices and make sure they are
primarily serving the interests of our companions. In this spirit, we might consider
getting rid of the term “crate” and instead just say “cage.” “Crating” is a
euphemism that blunts our moral curiosity; to “crate your dog while you are away
from the house” sounds benign. “Cage your dog,” on the other hand, may raise
little red flags in our minds--as it should.”
• Polgar, Blackwell, and Rooney, 2019 (scientific study published in Applied Animal
Behaviour Science)—“Kennelling can negatively affect canine welfare, yet there are no
standard measures.”
• Grigg, et. al, 2017 (scientific study)—“Numerous studies conducted to assess welfare of
domestic dogs housed in kennel facilities have reported that these dogs experience
suboptimal living conditions.”
• Emma and Ray Lincoln, authors of Dogs Hate Crates (2012)—“Americans have never
been so in love with the concept of owning dogs while being so ill-equipped to give dogs
the face-time, exercise, socialization and purpose in life they need.”

Middle Position
• ElleVet Sciences, June 2022—“Crate training your dog can be a great tool in your pet
parenthood toolbox. However, crates are often misused and dogs can significantly suffer
if they are not comfortable in the crate before being locked inside. It is essential that
owners seriously consider the pros and cons of dog crates, and use responsible, positive
techniques for crate training if they decide to pursue it.”
o “[W]hile crate training can have advantages for dog parents, proper use of a crate
can also be safe and beneficial for dogs.”
o “Crates are not for every dog and are often misused. Improper use can jeopardize
the health and safety of your dog.”
o “Dogs should not spend excessive or extended periods of time in their crate. Our
canine companions require regular exercise, mental stimulation, and social
interactions to lead happy, healthy lives. Too much time spent in a crate can be
boring, lonely, and restrictive. It is also cruel and unsafe to keep young puppies,
particularly those under six months of age, in their crate for more than three to
four hours at a time. Young dogs cannot go very long without potty breaks and
play sessions.”
o “Pet parents should consider changing their schedule, hiring help, or bringing
their dog with them to reduce the amount of time their dog spends in the crate
each day. In the long run, dog owners who wish to only use a crate temporarily

17
 can gradually progress from the crate to an enclosed space like the kitchen before
their dog can be trusted with full access to the entire house.”
• Tyler and Mills, January 2023 (scientific study)—“Dogs can be held temporarily or
permanently in kennels for a number of reasons, not necessarily for their own benefit.
Although restrictive environments have been associated with poor welfare, priorities for
research and change cannot be understood unless the various aspects of the kennel
environment are appreciated separately.”
• Labrador Training HQ, June 2023—“A crate in itself isn’t cruel, but people can be cruel
in the way they misuse it . . . and I stress the word MISUSE.”
o “If you were to lock your dog away for 16 hours a day, 5 days a week for 12
years, then yes you would be cruel and can cause your dog psychological harm.
I’ll say that again, YOU would be cruel, not the crate, it’s just the tool you will
have chosen to misuse for cruelty.”
o “A leash and collar is cruel if you use it to tether your dog alone to a post 16 hours
a day, or drag and yank them about by their necks when on walks. But used
correctly, a leash and collar is a useful tool for the safety and management of your
dog that benefits both of you. And think, no dog likes a collar and leash when you
first try to put it on them. You spend time with your dog to acclimatize them to a
leash and collar, so they learn to accept it and really do not hate it all. You then
use them correctly for the benefit and safety of your dog. It’s the same deal with a
crate. You have to spend time to acclimatize your dog to a crate, teach them to
accept and even love it, and then you use it correctly (and sparingly) for the safety
and benefit of your dog.”
o “All of the psychological problems the critics say crating causes are a direct result
of misusing the crate as a punishment tool and for inhumane long-term confinement
and isolation. Separation anxiety, obsessive habits like licking and chewing,
depression, withdrawal, inability to bond with humans, muscular atrophy – these
could of course be the result if you locked your dog away alone for 16 hours a day,
5 days a week, with no interaction, no exercise, no life. But a dog should only ever
be crated for a few hours per day at most, and some days not at all.”
o “By providing a crate and undertaking effective training, you and your Labrador
can enjoy the many benefits I’ve described above. But a crate must be used
correctly and humanely as a place you teach your dog to love and use for peace
and quiet, a place you use to confine them for safety, but NOT a place to imprison
them for punishment, for entire days or just to ‘keep them out of the way.’ Being
regularly locked away for extended periods of time is a miserable and isolated
way of life. This isn’t what a crate is for and this is when it’s cruel! If you even
consider this correct, if you need to lock your dog away for most of every day,
then maybe you shouldn’t have a dog at all? You should only have a dog because
you want to share a life with them, spend quality time with them and do the best
for them that you possibly can. A crate fits into this ideal. It is a tool you use for
the benefit of your dog, to help them fit into a human life and family more easily
whilst providing them a little place of their own for comfort and security.”

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Discipline and Training
Generally
• There’s a big difference between training an adult dog and training a young puppy.
Puppies are highly impressionable to ENFORCE HOUSE RULES AND START
TRAINING RIGHT AWAY.
• Train puppy every day, two or three times a day.
• Don’t punish the dog. Use positive reinforcement—rewards for desired behaviors (and
avoid reinforcing undesired behaviors).
• Initially, use food rewards—dogs are highly motivated by foods.
o Later, start phasing out the food reward so that the dog doesn’t become dependent
on it. Praise becomes the primary reward.
o When phasing out, start using treats every other time puppy performs correctly,
then every third time, then stick to just praise.
o Don’t overdo treats because doing so might spoil the dog’s meal routine.

Housetraining
• At 10 weeks old, the puppy will have to be taken outside every time she wakes up, about
10–15 minutes after every meal and after every period of play. That’s a total of ten or
more trips a day.
• A puppy up to the age of 14 weeks will need to go outside about 8 to 12 times per day.
• Once the puppy is 14 to 22 weeks of age, he will require only 6 to 8 relief trips. At the
ages of 22 to 32 weeks, the puppy will require about 5 to 7 trips. Adult dogs typically
require 4 relief trips per day, in the morning, afternoon, evening and late at night.
• For each month of age, the puppy gains one hour of bladder control. Don’t housetrain
until puppy can control herself for a few hours.
• Keeping your puppy on a specific feeding schedule will make it easier to predict when
she will have to go.
• You can start out with paper-training indoors and switch over to an outdoor surface as the
puppy matures and gains control over his need to eliminate.
• Reward your puppy for doing its business in the designated area.
• Scent attraction makes it important to clean up any messes made in the house by using a
product specially made to eliminate the odor of dog urine and droppings. Regular
household cleansers won’t do the trick. Pet shops sell the best pet deodorizers. Invest in
the largest container you can find.

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Obedience Training
• Four basic commands: (1) sit, (2) down, (3) stay, and (4) come.
• (1) Sit—
o (1) Kneeling in front of dog and hold a small treat between the thumb and
forefinger of your dominant hand.
o (2) Hold treat just in front of Frenchie’s nose so she can smell it.
o (3) Say “Sit” in a firm tone of voice.
o (4) Immediately move your hand forward and up toward the back of puppy’s
head. Dog’s nose will lift to follow the treat and her bottom will lower to the floor.
o (5) Reward correct performance—Say “Good dog!” and give her the treat.
o (6) Repeat this sequence a few times until your puppy gets the hang of it.
• (2) Down—Steps 1, 2, 5, and 6 are the same. Command “Sit.” After puppy sits, command
“Down.” Immediately move your hand down to the floor between your puppy’s feet. Her
nose will follow the treat and the rest of the body should follow. When her belly hits the
floor, reward and repeat (steps 5 and 6).
• (3) Stay—Steps 1-3, 5, and 6 are the same. After “Sit,” command “Stay” and take a quick
step backward. Reward correct performance and repeat, moving back a few more steps
each time.
• (4) Come—Command “Sit,” then “Stay.” Take steps backward and train dog to wait
patiently. Command “Come.” Reward correct performance and repeat, increasing the
time it should stay each time. Note: Never call your puppy (or adult dog) to come to you
and then scold her or discipline her when she gets there. She will make a natural
association between coming to you and being scolded, and she will think she was a bad
dog for coming to you. She will then be reluctant to come whenever she is called. Always
praise your puppy every time she comes to you.
• Heel—Begin with the dog sitting to your side. Hold the loop and folded leash in your right
hand. Pick up the slack leash above the dog in your left hand and hold it loosely at your
side. Step out on your left foot as you say “Heel.” If the puppy does not move, give a gentle
tug or pat your left leg to get him started. If he surges ahead of you, stop and pull him back
gently until he is at your side. Tell him to sit and begin again. Reward correct performance
and repeating, slowly increasing time between your movement and command.
• Once your puppy is reliable in basic commands and behavior and has reached the
appropriate age, you may gradually introduce him to some of the interesting sports,
games and activities available to pet owners and their dogs.
• Obedience school is important. Your dog will become a social animal as you learn with
other people and dogs. Home training, while effective in teaching your dog the basic
commands, excludes these socialization benefits.
• Working with a professional trainer will speed up your progress, but professional training
is not a substitute for home training.

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Food
Generally
• Feeding your dog a healthy diet is your biggest responsibility as a dog owner. The effects
of an improper diet—especially during the puppy’s first year of life—can compound over
time, leading to serious nutritional deficiencies and other health problems.
• Important: Get food advice from the breeder. His experience with the breed and with
various foods is invaluable.
• The vet will also be a helpful source of advice throughout the dog’s life and will aid you
in planning a diet for optimal health.
• The pup’s first food is her dam’s milk. There may be special situations in which pups fail
to nurse, requiring that the breeder hand-feed her with a formula. But for the most part
pups spend the first weeks of life nursing from their dam. The breeder weans the pups by
gradually introducing solid foods and decreasing the milk meals.
• French Bulldogs are prone to food allergies – particularly grain allergies.

Proportions
• The amount of food needed for proper maintenance will vary depending on the individual
dog’s activity level.
• Start off with 3 or more meals a day and decrease the number of meals as the pup
matures. Eventually you can feed only 1 meal a day, although it is generally thought that
dividing the day’s food into 2 meals on a morning/evening schedule is healthier for the
dog’s digestion.
• For the adult dog, feeding is about maintenance, not growth. Again, correct weight is a
concern. Protruding ribs = underweight. Dog should be covered by only a slight layer of fat.
• Include treats when calculating your dog’s daily calorie intake.
• Ask vet about proper food portions, and keep an eye on your dog’s condition to see
whether recommended amounts are adequate.

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Obesity
• Studies show that nearly 30% of our dogs are overweight, primarily from high caloric
intake and low energy expenditure. Females are at a greater risk of obesity than males.
• Obesity is very dangerous for dogs, especially for smaller breeds where a gain of one or
two pounds of excessive weight can be a significant strain on the dog’s back.
• Veterinary specialists link obesity with respiratory problems, cardiac disease and liver
dysfunction as well as low sperm count and abnormal estrous cycles in breeding animals.
Other complications include musculoskeletal disease (including arthritis), decreased
immune competence, diabetes mellitus, hypothyroidism, pancreatitis and dermatosis.
Other studies have indicated that excess fat leads to heat stress, as obese dogs cannot
regulate their body temperatures as well as normal-weight dogs.
• Research has shown that obesity takes years off a dog’s life.
• Best bet is to follow feeding instructions pet food label according to dog’s weight.
• Follow instructions for a few weeks while carefully monitoring dog’s weight and
condition. If she loses weight or becomes lethargic, increase daily ration. If she gains too
much weight, scale back.
• Keep in mind that treats, although small, can quickly add up throughout the day,
contributing unnecessary calories.
• Your Frenchie should have a visible “waist” behind his rib cage and in front of the hind
legs. There should be no fatty deposits on his hips or over his rump, and his abdomen
should not be extended.
• At maturity, females should weigh 19 to 24 pounds. Vet can help determine what is a
healthy weight.

Food Routine and Care

• Feeding the pup at the same times and in the same place each day is important for both
housebreaking purposes and establishing the dog’s everyday routine.
• Wash food dishes every day.
• Anytime you switch the dog’s food, do it gradually: A tried-and-true approach is, over the
course of about a week, to mix a little of the new food in with the old, increasing the
proportion of new to old as the days progress. At the end of the week, you’ll be feeding
his regular portions of the new food, and she will barely notice the change.

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Water
• Water is essential for hydration and proper body function.
• Fresh cold water, in a clean bowl, should be freely available to your dog at all times.
• Water is important for all dogs, but even more so for those fed dry foods, as there is no
high water content in their food.
• There are special circumstances, such as during puppy housebreaking, when you will
want to monitor your pup’s water intake so that you will be able to predict when she will
need to relieve herself, but water must be available to her nonetheless.

Nutrition and Choosing the Right Dog Food

• Look for dry foods based on meat or fish. Dogs eat a meat-based diet. They are not
obligate carnivores like cats, but the majority of their nutrition should come from animal-
based sources, both proteins and fats.
• Dry vs. canned and semi-moist—
o Dry foods contain the least amount of water and canned foods the most.
o Proportionately, dry foods are the most calorie-and nutrient-dense (meaning that
you need more of a canned food product to supply the same amount of nutrition).
o Water is important for all dogs, but even more so for those fed dry foods, as there
is no high water content in their food.
• Three most important nutrients: (1) protein, (2) fat, and (3) carbohydrates.
• Growing puppies, as well as pregnant and lactating females, have higher requirements for
protein and fat than adult dogs.
• A balanced diet for puppies should consist of at least 22% protein and 8% fat. For adult
dogs, those minimums are 18% and 5%. Keep in mind, however, that more is always
better when it comes to these requirements.
• Commercial dog foods are required to meet certain nutritional minimums in order to be
sold as a staple diet. The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the
governing body that controls this. If a dog food product contains an AAFCO statement of
nutritional adequacy, you can rest assured that it will provide for your Frenchie’s basic
nutritional needs in terms of the three core nutrients and vitamins and minerals.
• Many food products are labeled with the word “meal”–meat meals are fresh meats that
have been cooked to remove moisture which makes them a more highly concentrated
source of protein.
• Avoid hydrogenated plant oils and unnamed fats like “animal fat.”
• Choose a high-quality small-breed puppy food for your puppy until she reaches about 80
percent of her adult size. Then switch to a small-breed adult food–ideally one from the
same brand, or even the same formula, to reduce any digestive problems that might result
from a change in diet.

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Foods that are Toxic for Dogs
• Chocolate
• Onions
• Grapes
• Raisins
• Nuts

General Diet “Don’ts”

• No milk. Dogs cannot tolerate large amounts of cows’ milk because they lack the
enzymes to digest lactose.
• No raw eggs—can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin (biotin is necessary for
healthy connective tissue).
• No table scraps—will upset the balance of the dog’s complete foods, disrupt the food
schedule, cause upset canine stomachs (if fatty or highly seasoned food), and will
generally create unwanted expectations of feeding from the human table.
• No raw meat—is high in fat and may contain parasites.
• No raw liver—Vitamin A toxicity can result.
• No bones like chicken and pork chop—easily splinter (choking hazard).

Diet for the Aging Dog

• Once a dog has reached 75% of his expected lifespan, she has reached “senior citizen” or
geriatric status. Will be considered a senior at about 7 or 8 years of age.
• Discuss with vet whether you need to switch to a higher-protein or senior-formulated
food.
• Watching the dog’s weight is even more essential in senior stage. Older dogs are already
more vulnerable to illness, and obesity contributes to their susceptibility to problems.
• As the older dog becomes less active and thus exercises less, his regular portions may
cause her to gain weight. At this point, you may consider decreasing his daily food intake
or switching to a reduced-calorie food.

Exercise
• Have low energy levels and low exercise requirements—daily walk is adequate.
• Regular walks, play sessions in the yard and letting the dog run free in the yard under
your supervision are sufficient forms of exercise for the French Bulldog.
• Exercise is a useful corrective to obesity.

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Grooming
Generally
• The Frenchie has a short, fine coat that is easy to groom.
• All dogs shed. Frenchies shed moderately, but you may not notice because the hairs are
so short. Brushing once a week will limit shedding to a minimum.
• Tasks—(1) Brushing coat, (2) bathing, (3) brushing teeth, (4) trimming nails, (5) cleaning
ears.
• Also, trim the whiskers to the skin to give the dog a neat, clean-cut look.

Brushing Coat
• Brush several times a week to control shedding and distribute natural oils produced by
the skin to keep the coat soft.
• Technique: Start at the base of the neck. Work your way down the back and along the
sides. Always move “with the grain” (in the direction of hair growth). Brush down each
of the legs. Don’t forget the fur on the chest and abdomen.
• Frenchies shed their undercoat twice a year, so you’ll notice more shedding during the
spring and fall. May need extra brushing during these seasons, ideally with a stripping
comb, to remove excess hair. The rest of the year you can get by with a soft bristle brush.
• Many dogs grow to like the feel of being brushed and will enjoy the daily routine.

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Bathing
• Dogs need to be bathed only a few times a year—possibly more if she gets into
something messy or begins to smell bad.
• Before wetting the dog, give her a brush-through to remove any dead hair, dirt, and mats.
• Use a bathtub filled with a few inches of lukewarm water.
• Squeeze dog-friendly shampoo into your hand and lather it into dog’s coat.
• Keep the face and ears dry—you don’t want to cause discomfort or get water into her ear
canals.
• Important: rinse thoroughly because shampoo residue is drying and itchy for the dog.
• After rinsing, wrap her in a towel to absorb the initial moisture. You can finish towel
drying or use a hair dryer.
• On special occasions, use a pomade or some other hair dressing to give her coat a high
gloss.
• Skin folds—
o Clean skin folds every day.
o Use damp cloth or mild baby wipe to clean out folds on face and body. Then use
towel to make sure skin is completely dry—moist skin folds become a breeding
ground for bacteria.
• After the bath, brush her out thoroughly to clean out any dead undercoat.

Brushing Teeth
• About 30% of dogs exhibit some degree of dental disease by the time they are one year
old. About 80% by two years.
• Brush your dog’s teeth as often as she will let you.
• Start by getting your Frenchie used to having her teeth and gums touched—several times
a day, touch her teeth and gums with your finger. Give her a small treat and plenty of
praise to encourage her to allow this.
• After a week or so, start touching her teeth with a dog toothbrush so that she gets used to
the sensation. Later, add a little toothpaste and brush a few of her teeth at a time, working
your way up to brushing her entire mouth after each meal. [!!! After each meal?? -AG]
• Aside from brushing, offer dental toys to your dog and feed crunchy biscuits, which help
to minimize plaque.

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Trimming Nails
• Trim toe nails ~ every three weeks.
o Note that some dogs’ nails are worn down naturally by regular walking on hard
surfaces, so the frequency with which you clip depends on your individual dog.
o Look at his nails from time to time and clip as needed; a good way to know when
it’s time for a trim is if you hear your dog clicking as he walks across the floor.
• A good time to trim the toenails is after the dog has been bathed, as the nails will be soft
and easier to trim.
• Each of the dog’s nails contains a quick—that is the blood vessel that supplies blood to
the nail. You can see the quick if you look closely at the nails. When clipping the nails,
just clip the tip—avoid cutting too close to the quick because it will hurt the dog and
bleed profusely.
• Technique—
o (1) Start by grasping the pup’s paw; a little pressure on the foot pad causes the
nail to extend, making it easier to clip.
o (2) Clip off a little at a time.
o (3) If you can see the “quick,” you will know how much to trim, as you do not
want to cut into the quick.
o (4) If you make a mistake and cut too close, use styptic powder to stop the
bleeding. Do not panic or fuss, as this will cause the pup to be afraid. Simply
reassure the pup, stop the bleeding and move on to the next nail.

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Ear Care
• The French Bulldog is easy to identify by its large, bat-like ears. In addition to being an
iconic part of the breed’s appearance, the Frenchie’s ears have a lower risk for ear
infections than other breeds because they are erect and open to the air.
• Begin handling your puppy’s ears when he’s still young so that he doesn’t protest every
time you lift a flap or touch his ears.
• When a dog’s ears hang down on either side of the head, moisture can be trapped inside,
allowing infection-causing bacteria to multiply.
• Clean your Frenchie’s ears about once a week, or as needed.
• Technique for cleaning—
o Squeeze a few drops of ear cleaning solution to ear canal.
o Massage base of ear to distribute solution.
o Use clean cotton pad to wipe away solution, ear wax, and debris.
o Never probe into the ear canal—wipe the ear gently.
• Keep your dog’s ears free of excess hair by plucking it as needed. If done gently, this will
be painless for the dog.
• Look for wax, brown droppings (a sign of ear mites), redness or any other abnormalities.
At the first sign of a problem, contact your vet so that he can prescribe an appropriate
medication.

Anal Glands
• Anal glands should empty when a dog has normal bowel movements; if they don’t, they
can become full or impacted, causing discomfort.
• Look for scooting, licking or other signs of discomfort to ascertain whether the anal
glands need to be emptied.
• Do not try to evacuate the anal glands yourself during grooming. Instead, have the vet or
groomer take care of the problem.
• Some Frenchies have short screw tails and can be prone to anal gland impaction. The dog
has two anal glands on either side of the rectum. Because of the screw tail, it is more
difficult to clean these glands in the Frenchie than in many other breeds.

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Healthcare
Generally
• Focus on prevention rather than treatment.
• When you obtain the puppy from the breeder, she will already have some vaccinations
under her belt. But you still need to take her to the vet several times a year for checkups
and booster shots.
• Parasite control typically begins at two weeks of age, and vaccinations typically begin at
six to eight weeks of age. A pre-pubertal evaluation is typically scheduled for about six
months of age. At this time, a dental evaluation is done (since the adult teeth are now in),
heartworm prevention is started and neutering or spaying is most commonly done.
• Important: You CANNOT completely protect your Frenchie from disease. There are
vaccinations for some of the most common canine diseases, but other cannot be
prevented if your dog is exposed.
• Keep an eye on dog’s behavior because changes in behavior are often an indicator of
health problems in dogs.
• Take your dog’s temperature whenever you think she might be ill. One person holds the
dog. The other person coats the thermometer with petroleum jelly and inserts it slowly
and gently into the dog’s rectum about one inch. Wait about two minutes for the readings.
Remove the thermometer and clean eat carefully after each use. A dog’s normal body
temperature is between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees F. Immediate vet attention is required if
the temperature is below 99 or above 104 degrees F.

Vets
• There is probably no more important decision that you will make regarding your pet’s
healthcare than the selection of his doctor.
• Choose a vet that is familiar with the breed and the health problems.
• Ask friends and experienced dog people in your area for recommendations so that you
can select a vet before you bring your Frenchie puppy home.
• Arrange for your puppy’s first veterinary examination beforehand, since many vets have
two-and three- week waiting periods, and your puppy should visit the vet within a day or
so of coming home.
• Take your dog to the vet twice a year.
• USE SPECIALISTS to assist in the management of conditions that require specific
expertise and experience.

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Fleas/ticks
• Use a good preventative flea and tick preventative.
• Ticks are generally more common in warm weather (summer months) but can latch on at
any time of the year.
• Some diseases ticks can carry: Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.
• Prevention—Apply flea and tick prevention products every month.

Mites
• Tiny arachnid parasites
• Relatively easy to treat

Mosquitos
• The actual bite of a mosquito is unlikely to bother the dog, but mosquitos can carry
deadly heartworms.
• Heartworms can develop and grow inside your dog’s heart and be spread throughout the
body, causing progressive organ damage, lung disease, and even heart failure.
Heartworms are particularly dangerous because they take several months to grow so you
won’t see any signs of a problem until it is too late.
• Start your puppy on heartworm preventative as early as possible. You can start a puppy
under the age of 7 months with heartworm preventatives at any time. However, if the
puppy is older than 7 months you’ll need to have it tested before starting the preventative.
If your puppy starts before 7 months of age you should still have it tested after 6 months
because it takes that long for the heartworms to multiply and develop to a detectible level.

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Vaccinations
• Don’t just throw the kitchen sink—whether or not to use a particular vaccine depends on
the risk of contracting the disease against which it protects, the severity of the disease if it
is contracted, the duration of immunity provided by the vaccine, the safety of the product
and the needs of the individual animal.
• In general, rabies, distemper, hepatitis and parvovirus are considered core vaccine needs,
while parainfluenza, Bordetella bronchiseptica, leptospirosis, coronavirus and borreliosis
(Lyme disease) are considered non-core needs and best reserved for animals that
demonstrate reasonable risk of contracting the diseases.
• Your veterinarian will be able to tell you exactly which shots are needed and when, but
here is a general vaccination schedule:

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Senior Health
• When your French Bulldog reaches three-quarters of her anticipated lifespan (about 7 or
8 years of age), she is considered a “senior” and likely requires some special care.
• In general, if you’ve been taking great care of your canine companion throughout his
formative and adult years, the transition to senior status should be smooth.
• Age is not a disease, and as long as everything is functioning as it should, there is no
reason why most of late adulthood should not be rewarding for both you and your pet.

Spaying
• Spaying is a sterilization procedure: a midline incision is made in the abdomen and the
entire uterus and both ovaries are surgically removed. While this is a major invasive
surgical procedure, it usually has few complications because it is typically performed on
healthy young animals.
• Usually done at around 6 months of age.
• While the underlying premise is to address the risk of pet overpopulation, there are also
some medical and behavioral benefits to the procedure as well.
• Spaying prior to the first estrus (heat cycle) leads to a marked reduction in the risk of
mammary cancer. There also will be no manifestations of “heat” to attract male dogs and
no bleeding in the house.
• There may be some limited reduction in aggressive behaviors toward other dogs, and
some diminishing of urine marking, roaming and mounting.

Cancer
• The number-one killer disease in dogs is cancer. It claims nearly half the lives of dogs
that die from a natural disease as well as half the dogs that die over the age of 10 years.
• Statistics reveal that one dog in every five will develop cancer, the most common of
which is skin cancer.
• Early detection of cancer can save or extend a dog’s life, so it is absolutely vital for
owners to have their dogs examined by a qualified vet or oncologist immediately upon
detection of any abnormality.

Canine Cognitive Dysfunction

• “Old dog” syndrome—the gradual deterioration of cognitive abilities, indicated by
changes in the dog’s behavior.
• More than half of dogs over 8 years old suffer from some form of this syndrome.

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Travel Tips
• It is unsafe to let your dog wander around the car while you’re driving. [? But people do
this all the time with no problem. -AG] One option is to buy a travel carrier for your dog.
• When traveling in a car, make sure the temperature is appropriate. Remember than her
shorten face can sometimes lead to breathing problems, especially in hot weather.
• Most puppies fall asleep from the rolling motion of the car.
• Some dogs suffer from motion sickness. If your Frenchie does not enjoy trips in the car,
limit those trips to vet visits.
• Never leave your dog in the car alone—not even for a few minutes, and not even with the
window cracked open.
• When traveling in a car, bring everything your dog will need: food, water, pooper
scooper, bags, etc. In addition, bring a large towel or small blanket for the puppy to lie on
during the trip and an extra towel in case the pup gets carsick or has a potty accident.
• If the ride is lengthy, your may have to stop so that the puppy can relieve himself, so be
sure to bring a leash and collar for those stops.
• Avoid rest areas for potty trips, since those are frequented by many dogs, who may carry
parasites or disease. It’s better to stop at grassy areas near gas stations or shopping centers
to prevent unhealthy exposure for your French Bulldog.
• Some dogs do not adjust well to hotels and other unfamiliar places. Look for dog-friendly
accommodation (there are plenty). Also, bringing the dog bed or preferred bedding, as
well as favorite toys, can help. Finally, make sure to bring dog bowls, food, and treats.

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