Short Long To hit To hit Str Save Damage Ammo Range Range short long

ASH WASTES
Equipment, Permanent Damage and Notes:

EXPERIMENTAL VEHICLE CAMPAIGN RULES

by Chris Ward and Stuart Witter
Continuing the vehicle rules from last issue. This time we learn how vehicles behave in campaigns.

Fixed Weapon: Gunner:

VEHICLE ROSTER SHEET

Last issue we gave you full rules and vehicle costs for using your buggies, crawlers, bikes, etc. The costs of the vehicle you have purchased and the information about it should be recorded on the Necromunda: Battles in the Ash Wastes vehicles roster opposite (permission is granted to photocopy it or a full version can be downloaded from the Fanatic website). Using this roster keeps costs of your vehicles separate from your gangers and allows you to use your Nomads to raid the Underhive on foot by taking the cost of your vehicles away from your total gang rating. This roster also has areas to include fixed weapons that are considered part of the vehicle the cost of which is added to the total cost of the vehicle, not the gunner, and areas for noting down the driver, gunner, etc. An example of a completed roster is given on the right.

Vehicle Name: Driver:

Armour

Area Name

Scores

VEHICLE PERMANENT DAMAGE

Just as a ganger can be seriously injured in a fight, a gangs vehicles can take permanent damage from enemy fire. Gangs try to keep their transport in the best working order they can, salvaging parts from wrecked vehicles found in the ash wastes and buying replacement parts from the shanty towns. However, some damage cannot be glossed over using a planishing hammer or a coat of paint and will therefore have more detrimental effects.

Armour Type: Cost:

Area Name

6 3

CRIPPLED VEHICLES
Any vehicle that is crippled has to roll on the Vehicle Permanent Damage table. Any vehicle that was immobilised during the game may become crippled and have to roll on the table, especially if it is abandoned by a gang that bottles out. A vehicle that has no crew or driver at the end of the battle also counts as being immobilised.

Vehicle Type: Transport Capacity:

Armour

IMMOBILISED VEHICLES
Scores
Roll a D6 for each immobilised vehicle at the end of the game. On a roll of a 1 the vehicle counts as crippled and you must roll on the Vehicle Permanent Damage table, on a roll of a 2 or

Short Long To hit To hit Str Save Damage Ammo Range Range short long

Heavy Stubber Fixed Weapon: Hukk Touler Gunner:

Equipment, Permanent Damage and Notes:

2 Sustained Fire dice Engine

more your gang successfully rescues the vehicle before it is either stripped by another gang or falls prey to the harsh ash waste conditions, meaning it will be repaired in time for the next game. If the gang owning the vehicle bottled out, the chances are that the vehicle will be recovered less. So instead a D6 roll of 1-3 will mean the vehicle is crippled and takes permanent damage; a roll of 4-6 means that it is rescued and repaired.

4+

VEHICLE PERMANENT DAMAGE CHART (D66)

11-13 Destroyed The vehicle is completely wrecked, the damage it has sustained leaves it beyond repair. If one gang bottled out the other can leave a ganger to strip the vehicle of any parts that could be salvaged, gaining 2D6 x 10 creds (to be added to the gangs income). This means, though, that the ganger cannot scavenge or work a territory this game. 14-16 Wrecked The vehicle has not been completely destroyed, although repairable it is badly mangled. Roll a further D6 times on this table. Re-roll any Destroyed, While we were at it..., Fixed or further Wrecked results. Re-roll any duplicate Captured results. 21-22 Armour Weakened The armour plates that protect the vehicles vital components and crew are twisted, buckled, have holes blown in them or are completely missing. The vehicles Armour values should be reduced by -1 on all locations. 23-24 Twisted Chassis The vehicles chassis or frame is bent, making it almost impossible to control at high speeds. For each turn you wish to make roll a D6. On a result of a 1 the turn cannot be made at all (i.e. a vehicle travelling at fast speed, that can only make one 45 degree turn, fails its D6 roll and cannot make its turn this Movement phase). 25-26 Engine Problems The vehicles propulsion system has taken serious damage during the last battle and now doesnt function perfectly. The driver must make a Leadership test each time he wishes to travel at a different speed (slow, combat or fast) from what was travelled at in the previous Movement phase. A failed leadership test means the engine has malfunctioned and travels at the same speed this turn. A Leadership test must also be made to bring a vehicle to a halt (stationary for a turn) or to move a previously stationary vehicle. 31-32 Boneshaker The suspension systems are ditched and the vehicle bounces around wildly as it is driven across the uneven ash surface. While moving, all models on board suffer a -1 to hit modifier, when they shoot.

Armour Type: Heavy Armour Vehicle Name: Bertha Cost: 300+0+120= 420 Driver: Led Saato

0-20

20-40

Armour

Vehicle Body

Area Name

Wheel

Scores

10

12
Fixed Weapon

Area Name

Driver

4 10 1

5 10 2

Vehicle Type: Wheeled Transport Capacity: 5

Armour

Scores

10

Crew

12

33-34 Annoying Squeak! Some minor problem such as a knocking sound every time the vehicle accelerates, a rattley gearbox or a squeaky seat has developed and sends the driver mad! The driver suffers -1 Leadership whilst driving this vehicle due to the distraction. 35-36 Unreliable The vehicle develops a recurring fault which, despite efforts of repair, means it is sometimes out of action. Roll a D6 before each battle. On a result of a 1 the problem is playing up and the vehicle cannot be used for this game. Two Unreliable results mean 2D6 have to be rolled before each game any roll of a 1 the vehicle is unavailable, three means 3D6, etc. 41-56 Fixed It looks a lot worse than it is, a knock about with a mallet, a few rivets and a coat of paint means the vehicle sustains no long suffering effects. 61-63 Captured The vehicle is towed away by the opposing gang. Captured vehicles can be exchanged, ransomed or stripped for parts if both gangs hold captured vehicles then they must be exchanged on a one for one basis, starting with vehicles of the highest value. Any remaining vehicles can be bought back by their own gang if the player is willing to pay the captors asking price. There is no guideline for ransom prices, it is for the players to decide between themselves. Finally, vehicles that have not been exchanged or bought back can be stripped for parts. Any fixed weapons can be added to the capturing mobs stash and the vehicles components are sold for 3D6 x 10 creds. The gang who have lost their vehicle can opt to play a rescue mission to reclaim their valued transport before it is reduced to its component parts. 64-65 Reputation The knocks, rake marks and bullet holes covering the vehicle means it is recognised as being owned by an experienced gang of merciless killers. The effect of this pride in their transport gives all gang members riding on the vehicle +1 Leadership whilst on board. 66 While we were at it The gangs efforts to patch up the vehicle after the last battle seem to have solved another long-standing fault. All permanent damage suffered by the vehicle during its illustrious lifetime is fixed and has no further effect!

TREACHEROUS CONDITIONS
EXPERIMENTAL RULES
by Chris Ward
Outside the protection of the hive walls, life is sparse and survival hard. Even the hardiest shanty town dwellers or experienced nomad gangs can find themselves caught out by the rapidly changing conditions that are the result of Necromundas ruined ecosystem. Massive ash dunes are interspersed with areas of completely flat ash plain miles wide. These are but the least of a gangs worries. Even the air is toxic outside the hive, any man caught without a respirator will surely die. However, it is the land and climate of the planet itself that kills many unwary outhiver. Windstorms blow up great clouds of corrosive ash that can strip a man to the bone in minutes. The temperature fluctuates wildly, freezing one minute, only to be boiling hot the next. Toxic or acid rain can pour from the skies and floods of sludge or chemicals sweep across the land. Finally, it is the darkness of night that is singly the most terrifying thing to many gangers, for who knows what will have happened when the skies become light once more! Should you wish, you may include a treacherous condition in your games of Necromunda: Battles in the Ash Waste. You may agree with your opponent not to have a treacherous condition, but if one player wants one you must roll for it. Treacherous conditions are rolled for after set-up, but before the game begins. Note that Ash Nomad gangs are not affected by any conditions except for the Darkness (31-36) and Dead Calm (26) conditions. To determine the condition which affects your game roll D66 and consult the table over the page.

11-16 Ash Condition

The ash surface that covers Necromunda is not always firm, level ground. The ash may be sludgy, uneven or moving in huge drifts, not to mention the pockets of Quickash, that can catch out a careless ganger!
11 Sludge. The ash is slightly sludgy and clings to the boots of gangers and tyres of vehicles. However, this does not cause any major effect. Continue as normal. 12 Drifting Ash. The ash is dry, fine and drifting fast. Besides getting into clothing and equipment it has little effect. Continue as normal. 13 Thick Ash Covering. The whole area is covered with a thick coating of fine ash like sand. This makes movement on foot very difficult; all movement by models on foot on the surface is at half rate. In addition, roll a D6 at the start of each turn for every vehicle. On a 1 the vehicle is stuck and may not move this turn. This does not affect skimmers and crawlers. 14 Uneven Surface. The ash in this area is set hard into lumps, mounds and ridges, shaking and jolting models in vehicles. Any models shooting from a moving vehicle is at an additional -1 to hit. Skimmers, crawlers and walkers are unaffected. 15 Quickash. Small pockets of quickash are dotted across the area, completely Hidden from view. Roll a D6 for any model on the surface that moves (vehicles and models on foot). On a 1 they are caught in a Quickash pocket and may not move this turn as they struggle to free themselves. 16 Heat-Baked Ash Pan. The surface is baked into a hard, even surface. Ideal! Continue as normal.

21-26 Wind Condition

It is always windy in the wastes of Necromunda, constantly blowing up ash and corrosive chemicals. For the most part, the wind is just another inconvenience, but sometimes it gets really windy...
21 Poison Wind. The wind is somewhat more toxic than normal, just be thankful that everyone has a respirator. Continue as normal. 22 Blustery. The wind is blustery and corrosive. Continue as normal. 23 Strong Winds. Movement in the wind is becoming extremely difficult. All movement on foot is reduced by -1 (e.g. models with Move 4 are now Move 3) 24 Ash. The wind is blowing up great clouds of ash and dust that makes it very hard to see. Long range shooting is at an additional -1 to hit. 25 Heavy Ash. The wind is blowing especially thick clouds of ash and dust that gets into everything mechanical. All shooting is at an additional -1 to hit. In addition, the ash and dust is so thick it is clogging air intakes on vehicles. Vehicles must roll 4+ on a D6 to move, or be immobilised for the turn. 26 Dead Calm. There is no wind, a rare thing in the wastes. All Ash Nomad models are at -1 Ld as the conditions are so unnerving. This does not affect any other gangs.

31-36 Light Conditions

Outside the hive, light is not rigorously controlled by glow-globes and halogen strips. It is a murky place as much of the light of Necromundas sun is kept out by the thick clouds of smog that drift across the sky. However, this is preferable to the light which occasionally breaks through the cloud layer, as any kind of protective ozone layer has been destroyed millennia ago. The light that does get through to the planet is burning, blinding and mutating.

31 Gloomy. It is clouded and poorly lit. But then this is only to be expected. Continue as normal. 32 Bright. The smog layer is relatively thin here. Continue as normal. 33 Bad Light. Night is approaching. Vision is reduced to 16". 34 Darkness. It is the dead of night. Vision is reduced to 8". All Ld is at -1 or use the rules for night fighting if you have them. 35 Radiation. A gap in the clouds allows deadly non-ionising UVC radiation through to the planet surface. Roll a D6 for every model at the start of the game. On a 1 that model takes a S3 hit. Any model that goes out of action due to this automatically gets the Horrible Scars result on the Injury table. 36 Changing. The cloud layer is rapidly drifting. Each turn roll a D6. On a 1 roll again on this table applying the result immediately.

41-46 Temperature Condition

Vast pressure differences exist on Necromunda the planet being alternately superheated by the sun and frozen when it is in shadow. This not only results in the winds on Necromunda but also massive temperature changes that move across the surface, freezing or cooking anything unable to protect itself.
41 Cold. The temperature is cold, but nothing that hardened gangers cant deal with. Continue as normal. 42 Hot. It is hot and clammy. Continue as normal. 43 Chill Wind. The temperature has plummeted. Ice forms on vehicles and weapons. Continue as normal. 44 Heat Wave. Boy is it hot! Continue as normal. 45 Freezing. The temperature drops so low it freezes the ash surface solid. Vehicles moving must roll a D6 each turn. On a 1 they move out of control as the vehicle slips on the ice. This does not apply to skimmers or crawlers. 46 Baking Hot. Roll a D6 for each model at the start of a players turn. On a 1, models on foot pass out with the heat, counting as pinned. Vehicles that roll a 1 overheat and may not move this turn.

51-56 Storm Conditions

The ash storms of Necromunda are notorious across the galaxy. In full force a storm can pick up a man and drop him hundreds of miles away. Of course, by then he is little more than scoured bones. Sometimes a skirmish will occur just before or after a great storm, when gangers must fight in the harshest of conditions.
51 Storms Coming Ani! (I can feel it in my bones). A really nasty ash storm is heading this way, blowing up ash and raining down toxins. Each player must roll a D6 at the start of his turn. On a 1 the player may not move at all this turn as the storm forces everyone into cover. Models may shoot or fight in close combat as normal. 52 Cyclone. As two gangs approach each other, a huge cyclone whips up, forcing the gangs to retreat. Players should each roll a Ld test for their gang leader. The player who passes by the most wins, and may reposition his entire gang, with the normal set-up rules for the scenario being played. 53 Acid Rain. Acid rain in the underhive is a mere trickle by comparison. Roll a D6 for all models at the start of the game. On a 1, models on foot must pass an I test (by rolling under their Initiative on a D6) or take a S3 hit. Models taken out by this automatically receive the Horrible Scars serious injury; there is no need to roll for it. Vehicles that roll a 1 must roll a further D6 after the game. On another 1 they take permanent damage as though they had been crippled, as the acid eats through vital components. 54 Chemical Rain. All rain on Necromunda is made up of nasty chemicals, all water having long since been polluted. Continue as normal. 55 Toxic Rain. This comes down in thick sheets which impairs vision and sting the eyes. Vision is reduced to 24". 56 Lightning Storm. Roll 2D6 each turn. On the roll of 2 (snake eyes!), a vehicle is struck by lightning and explodes with the same effect as rolling a 6 on the Vehicles Fuel Damage table (or engine/powerplant depending on the type of vehicle. Just apply whichever is the most damaging.) If there are no vehicles then there is no effect.

61-66 Miscellaneous Conditions

There are some strange conditions that also occur in the wastes, some of which arent even strictly weather...
61 Ash Clams. The whole area is riddled with ash clams, hiding just underneath the ash surface. Roll a D6 for each model that moves on foot. On a 2-5 nothing happens. On a 1 the model is seized by an ash clam and may not move until rolling under his Strength on a D6 at the start of subsequent turns. 62 Radiation. The whole planet is swimming with it! Continue as normal. 63 Parasites. A recent storm has stirred up a colony of microscopic parasites. Each player must roll a D6 at the start of each turn. On a roll of a 1 a randomly determined gang fighter loses one Strength point for the rest of the game, as the parasites feed. Models reduced to S=0 are taken immediately out of action. 64 Effluent Flood. A massive effluent flood sweeps across the battlefield. Making movement a somewhat haphazard affair. Roll a D6 for every model at the start of the game (on foot and vehicles). On a 1 that model may not move in its first turn. 65 Rad Zone. The battlefield is dotted with highly concentrated radiation sources. Players must roll a D6 at the start of their turn. On a 1 a randomly determined model is affected by the radiation. Models that go out of action due to this automatically receive the Impressive Scars result on the Serious Injury table; there is no need to roll for this. Models equipped with rad counters are not affected. 66 Multiple Conditions! Roll again for a further D6 treacherous conditions, re-rolling any more rolls of 66.

TAKE THE TUBE (or ten pounds... thats a bargain!)

by Stuart Witter
The hives of Necromunda are scattered over the cloud-strewn surface of the planet, linked by a network of overground travel tubes and subterranean passages. From the top of a hive it might be possible to see the tips of distant hives projecting from the seas of poison mists like far-flung islands. Some closer hives are connected by open roads across the wastes but most are connected together by transportation tubes supported on pylons and suspended on cables, said Stuart. Lets make one, said Rob. So we did! To start with we discussed whether we should attempt a suspension bridge-based travel tube hanging over the battlefield supported by girders and alike, or a tube that would be almost completely covered with ash. The latter not only sounded a bit easier to start with, but also allowed us to model a breach into the travel tube that we could use in a scenario we had devised. As such we headed to our local B&Q to see what kind of tubes they could offer us in order to aid our scenery building endeavours. An erratic and somewhat knuckle-whitening ride later we were browsing the extensive drainpipe range that the hardware store offered. The half drainpipe that we thought would be the most useful turned out to be four quid for two metres! Top value we thought and after picking up some interesting looking bracket things that held a hefty price tag of twelve pence, each we set about trying to find an unsuspecting staff member to cut up our pipe Now the folks at the shop usually help me out cutting up bits of wood to facilitate getting them into my car and alike, however this particular staff member informed us that they did not have the relevant equipment to do it for us. If the shop did not have an extensive range of saws I might have believed him, we responded to his comments with a half hearted shoulder shrug-come-sigh paid and left.

The basic tube construction is really simple and cheap, after cutting of one foot long pieces of drainpipe, we glued them onto some hardboard bases. Cutting up the brackets we made strengthening ribs that were glued in equally spaced intervals along the tube. As you can see from the pictures one rib is placed at the end of the pipe so joins look a little tidier on the tabletop. After adding these we built up ash on one side where it would be blown against the walls of the tube. I used polystyrene cut into shape using one of GWs hot wire jobbies (it seems to be the quickest method and I only burnt myself a few times!). I am sure there are loads of ways to build up ash type mounds, polyfilla, etc. that would be a lot better looking in the long run but we wanted to make this lot in a day and as such needed something that would be quick and mess free. Talking of mess we then applied a liberal coat of PVA to the bases and dumped a bucket full of sand on them to dry (later inspection

was then snapped and glued on a reinforcing bar (wire) was added in the ends of these to make them look functional. I saved the middle pieces of the blasted out section, cut them up and filed the edges down in a similar A completed section of tube. fashion to the tube so that I could add them to the revealed a few more coats would be in order and I decided to apply them laced base later. I couldnt decide what to make with paint later on). We made four plain the train out of for age, then in a flash of sections so that on a six foot by four foot inspiration (I was sat where I have most of board we could have a completely plain my good ideas) I saw a redundant R2D2 travel tube running the width of the table bubble bath bottle sat on the other side of that could be blown up during the game the bathroom. I thought his midriff was an and replaced with a breach segment. excellent sci-fi train type shape and after a little more deliberation took him to pieces The breach section required a little more for a better cause (dont worry I had two of planning. The walls needed to look these little babies so I didnt mind cutting substantial and I decided to include a one up). I removed a panel from Artoos transport train inside. I wanted a composite side and added a little interior detail for kind of feel to the wall rather than just a big those who might peer inside of the train, thick concrete one, so after cutting a hole in and glued it into the tube. I then packed it the wall I cut a smaller hole about the same away from the side so that the train didnt shape in the left over drainpipe. I then look like it filled the entire tube. I glued the glued the off cut piece inside the section, beast down and added polystyrene to but held it off the main wall using a couple represent the build up of ash and then used of pieces of reinforcing bar (round sprue) the afore prepared rubble and the and an energy conduit (wire). To make the obligatory corroding skeleton to finish the rubbled wall look convincing I filed down job before giving the base a thick layer off the edges to look like they had been made sand. of some kind of stone/plascrete. This looked a lot better than the original drilled Whilst I was cutting up R2D2, Rob busied and snapped plastic look it had previously himself creating an access point with the sported. The rib that ran across the hole last section of drainpipe we had managed

The breached section of tube.

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The Maintenance section of tube to squeeze into his Orion. Again the finely honed basic tube technique was used to superb effect, and the access point was to be built on top of the tube. A rather sorry looking railway set footbridge formed the base of the cabin, its roof being used as the tread plates that the small building sits upon. The actual building itself was constructed using Necromunda bulkheads that had the ladders removed. They had been carefully cut to size and then plastic rod, girder shaped extrusion, was used to build a frame for the pieces to sit into. The end pieces of the cabin used one of the cut down ladders and a bulkhead with a door hole. The door that sits in the frame was scratch built by Rob out of plasticard. He detailed it with a skull and scroll device, a door handle and hinges. The railway footbridge parts were arranged in such a way as the door is at the raised level, and on entering you would descend into the tube from above. The roof was just plain plasticard with a vent hatch and aerials added to give interest to the cabin. The hatch is a piece of unsuspecting railway kit and the aerial is part of a chimeras multilaser. The paint job is a very simple one and needed to match my ash waste board, I have chosen to play my games in an area of wastes rich in corroded iron deposits, a pinky brown shade covers my bases and board, and the scenery matches this. The tubes themselves were to match the conventional Warhammer 40k feel, grey with industrial yellow and black stripes meant the wastes still gives the impression that the tube is part of the hive. All in all the six foot of transport tube we made only cost around ten pounds (OK, the railway bits should have cost about that to, but they were just lying about) so you can see that the simple gaming terrain we made whilst play testing the game was done quickly and cheaply. We were more interested in playing the game than what it looked like to start with, having no models or scenery seems daunting to start with but the ash waste is fairly sparsely populated with the stuff. Games can be played with only a handful of rocks and a burnt out wreck of a vehicle, whilst still providing an interesting battle. Winning at Battles in the Ash Wastes does not rely as heavily on hugging cover, tactical manoeuvre of your vehicles around the scenery is what counts and not crashing into it!

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ON YER BIKE!
by Stuart Witter
After playing with my Nomad gang for some time, gaining the odd skill and picking up a sizeable stash of creds along the way, I decided it was time to make some more vehicles. These would be for the footslogging gangers and juves that tagged along with the existing buggies my gang used. Having only light vehicles so far in my gang I did not want anything that would slow them down too much, and making more buggies didnt really appeal to me that much either. Bikes then, I thought and had a look in my bits box to see what I might be able to make use of. protective windscreen armour plate and glued inbetween the fork mountings. It was at this point I realised I had no way of putting the wheels on either end now Disheartened I made a cup of tea in preparation for the next bits box search that lay ahead. For the front forks I found two banner poles from Ork war buggies gutted making other ash waste vehicles. They had a big sun on the banner top, that when turned round made quite good disc looking bits. I trimmed these down a bit and found that the original wheel would now never fit between them, I sanded down the two halves of the tyre before gluing it all in place. I had no idea how the back wheel of a motor bike fits on, so I went and had a look at one (reference materials are best when completely stumped by a modelling project). I found they are held on one side on newer racing bikes. Armed with this equipment and a further cup of tea I knocked up a plasticard arm to hold the back wheel on. I added a couple of hubcaps that you get on the tyre sprues onto this arm for a little detail, and the hub cap for the outside was made by cutting down one of the tank wheels you get spare when putting

The Space Marine bike sprue was the first that came to hand but I had my doubts about it. A huge armoured bike designed for lugging around half a tonne of genetically enhanced, super human was hardly the sort of thing knocked out in a shanty town. With this in mind I started to weaken the two main halves of the bike and make the whole thing look a lot lighter. Mainly I did this on the armour that covered the wheels and took the forks off at the point where they meet the headlight area. This left me with a bit of a predicament what to join the wheel on with later but I decided to think about when I came to do it later and carried on with the removal of the rear wheels armour. After taking off the rear armour I glued the two halves together, and added the handlebars. The headlight (useful in the murky ash storms and mists) was cut away from the

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previously housed the tracks, added new forks made from spear staffs and a cut down front wheel. He then realised he didnt know how motorbike back wheels fitted on either. The half made bike then lay dormant, awaiting inspiration for a couple of days I asked Chris if he would mind if I finished it, as I was a bit short on bike bits. He was more than happy to give up the front wheel that he had created. I added handlebars and a headlamp to match my first bike and tried to find a way of adding the engine and back wheel. A Sentinel leg link turned up and was added to one side to give a rather beefy looking motor. I quite liked the look this gave and wanted it to appear like it was driven by electric as well as fuel, so I added a power pack and wires from a lascannon that I pinched off of Rob. I then needed a set of exhausts for the beast, and having looked at loads of gun bits whilst trying to find wiring, had turned up an Ork skorcha from the back of a Warbuggy. Cut in two the barrels made fairly nifty looking exhausts. The rider was again made from the new models that Fanatic have produced. I left the long cloak, removing the front of the legs and then gluing Space Marine Scout legs to his waist. The cloak gives the model a real feeling of speed and the chainsword seemed to set this off nicely I was partially inspired by the picture of the nomad leader from the ash nomad rules in Necro mag 3. The juves of my gang didnt deserve such large impressive bikes; I took a trip to a local model shop to see if I could find anything smaller. The range of bikes was less than startling and I settled for the only ones they did without sidecars. The bike I used for this juve had millions of parts to put together but I only used the completely necessary ones! Well... most of the completely necessary ones. The engine was replaced by the body of a multi melta, a power pack from a Van Saar heavy was added to feed extra power to the new motor and a back pack from a mutie raider was used to make the bike look like it was a bit of a work horse. I gave the juve on top mutie raider legs, these were used as the Scout legs looked massive on such a small frame. The arms were positioned into a riding and throwing

together a Chimera. I covered an unsightly gap in the back of the bike caused by removing all its armour with some miscellaneous piece of sci-fi stuff, oh and I should probably point out that I tried putting the foot rest jobby on but decided it ruined the smaller look I had given the bike. Without this bit and having removed the original exhausts along with the rest of the armour, I had no pipe at all on the bike. Not wanting it to sound like a dodgy old Nova SR I gave it new pipes that went into the barrel from an Ork shoota, a nice looking silencer (I was quite chuffed with that bit!). The rider seemed a logical progression and having secured myself a set of the lovely new ash nomad models I decided it was best to cut them up. I picked a model with an arm held out, this meant an almost natural riding position could be achieved. First I cut off his legs at the waist. I had some Space Marine Scout Biker parts that were meant to originally ride this bike. The legs from the scout made the nomad sit perfectly on the bike and the hand meant he would hold onto the handlebars fairly well. After adding an autopistol for its short range effects (bikes in the game can move again after firing when moving at fast speed, making short range weapons really useful) and a small backpack the nomad was set aside whilst another hunt was made for bike material. Chris decided that he would have a go at this motorbike production. After all it looked a doddle and readily started to chop up an abandoned Ork warbike. He removed the front forks and all the armour that

13

The juve rider was made in the same way as the first, although the lack of space marine scout hand (all scouts hold on with their left) meant I had to resort to an archers hand that happened to turn up. At this point I fancied making a quad and spent a couple of hours making one out of a pair of Space Marine Bikes, adding new forks, mud guards, etc. before Chris and Rob convinced me it really did look just like a ride-on lawn mower that the caretaker might have riden around on when we were at school. Not being able to get the image of my nomad mowing verges out of my head I filed the conversion in my bits box for another more suitable application. position, the hand not grasping on for dear life was to throw a grenade. Grenades can be chucked off in any direction by a biker giving them massive flexibility. I added a backpack to the juve to further the image of a functional vehicle. The notion that the rider didnt have a gun perplexed me a little so I finally added a holster taken from a space marine sprue to the side of the bike, ready to be drawn in case of emergency. This bike needed to look different from the other juves so I added armour. Shocking though the idea was, I am usually found weakening my ash wastes vehicles to the point of no return. Half circles were added to protect the wheels and the engine was replaced by the stock of a multilaser, with an armour plate covering any workings. I fashioned an exhaust out of a spear staff and the exhausts cut off the Ork bike Chris had ravaged. Painting the bikes was a matter of replicating the colour scheme already used on my buggies, vermin brown over black, chipsscuffs and dirt. These are gaming miniatures and as such I didnt dwell on the paint job, I reserved more of my painting time to my new Ash nomad gang (coming soon). I hope that I have shed a bit of light on how these little bikers were put together and perhaps inspired you to have a go, I recommend you have a look at a real motorbike first it really does help!

Useful bits for making your bikes with!

All the components shown below can be ordered from Mail Order.
102791 Small Wheel sprue 102807 Marne Bike sprue 010300107 Dreadnought Exhaust 00801 Ork Warbike sprue 010505312 Multi-Melta 010505302 Hatch Base 010800509 Immolator Blast Shield 030500504 Shadowsword Cannon 030700107 Carapace Heavy Weapon 030300316 Exhaust 1 030300317 Exhaust 2 FNCMO16 Ash Waste Hand Weapon sprue FNCM017 Ash Waste Basic Weapon sprue

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