Makes 4 servings

11⁄3-lb center-cut salmon

fillet, skin removed and
reserved (see Note)
Fine sea salt
Cá Hồi Lúc Lắc
Recently ground black pepper
21⁄2 tsp toasted sesame oil
2 tsp minced peeled
Shaking Salmon
fresh ginger
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 Tbsp granulated sugar,
agave syrup, or mild honey,
plus 2 tsp I’ve shaken cubes of beefsteak and tofu for this iconic Vietnamese main dish
salad, so why not fish? Tuna tended to be too lean, and delicate white fish was
1tsp cornstarch
too flaky, but rich-tasting salmon was just right. I removed the skin so that the
11⁄2 Tbsp soy sauce
salmon cubes would cook up better. I didn’t want to waste the skin—a tasty
11⁄2 tsp fish sauce (store- (and pricey) part of the fish—so I baked it into crisp chips to serve with the dish.
bought or vegan version,
page 29) (If the skin’s fishiness isn’t for you, discard the skin and skip the prep step.)
Coating the salmon cubes in rice flour enables easy searing. Ginger adds a
1⁄4 cup thinly sliced red
onion or shallot spritely bite to the garlicky, peppery sauce.

11⁄2 Tbsp unseasoned

rice vinegar
2 Tbsp water or neutral oil
(such as canola or peanut;
choose water for a brighter
salad flavor, oil for a richer
outcome)
5 to 6 cups lightly packed
spring baby lettuce mix or
watercress
1⁄3 cup hand-torn dill, mint,
basil, shiso, or a combination
6 to 8 cherry tomatoes or
small red radishes, halved
11⁄2 Tbsp white or brown
rice flour
11⁄2 Tbsp neutral oil (such as
canola or peanut)
In Vietnamese, this warm-cool salad is quirkily named for how the featured
protein is cut as large cubes that resemble hột lúc lắc (playing dice). Because
lúc lắc means “to shake” and that action is involved in cooking the dish,
“shaking” became part of the charming English-language translation. No matter
what it’s called, this salad-y main is great on its own or with a side of rice.
Cut the salmon and make the chips
Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 375°F. Line a small baking sheet with
parchment paper or aluminum foil.
Cut the salmon flesh into 3⁄4- to 1-inch cubes and set on a plate. Cut the
reserved salmon skin into 3⁄4-inch-wide strips about 3 inches long. Season
with a few pinches of salt and pepper and then coat with 1 tsp of the
sesame oil. Arrange the skin strips, shinier scale-side up, on the foil.
Bake the salmon skin for 12 to 18 minutes, or until sizzling and crisp (expect
oil to pool in the pan). The cooking time depends on the strips’ thickness;
monitor and remove them as they’re done to avoid burning. Transfer to a
plate, leaving the oil behind, and let cool completely.

(Continued)

Veggie-Packed Mains 237

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 (cá hồi Lúc Lắc / shaking salmon, Continued)

Select a salmon fillet

Mix the seasoning sauce and ready the salad
that’s about 1 inch thick
in the middle; ask the Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the ginger, garlic, 1 Tbsp sugar, corn-
fishmonger to remove starch, 1⁄2 tsp pepper, soy sauce, fish sauce, and remaining 11⁄2 tsp sesame oil.
the skin if you don’t want Rinse the onion in a strainer under cold running water for about 10 seconds,
to do it yourself. then set aside. In a large bowl (suitable for tossing the salad), whisk together
the remaining 2 tsp sugar, 1⁄8 tsp salt, 1⁄8 tsp pepper, vinegar, and water. Add the
onion and top with the lettuce, herbs, and tomatoes. Don’t toss yet.

Cook the salmon, toss the salad, and serve

Lightly coat the cubed salmon with the rice flour. Set by the stove with
the ginger-garlic seasoning sauce.
Set a 12-inch skillet (I favor carbon steel for its heat conduction) over high
heat and add the neutral oil. When the oil ripples, add the salmon and cook,
gently turning and tossing it, for about 3 minutes, until the fish is nearly
cooked through. To test for doneness, poke the flesh; it should give a bit and
the interior should look opaque.
Lower the heat slightly, pour in the seasoning sauce, and cook briefly,
tossing and gently stirring, for about 30 seconds to cloak the salmon in the
sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and let rest and cool for a few minutes.
Meanwhile, toss the salad, transfer everything (including the dressing
lingering at the bottom of the bowl) to a platter or shallow serving bowl,
and then top with the cooked salmon and skin chips. Serve immediately,
inviting diners to combine the salmon with the salad for a cool-warm
finish. Or, ceremoniously combine the ingredients at the table and let
diners dive in.

Notes

Ingredients If you skip the salmon skin, substitute crumbled sesame sticks
for a rich crunch, if desired.

Technique To remove the skin from the salmon fillet, cut the fillet crosswise
into approximately 3-inch-wide sections. Set the fillet skin-side down on the
cutting board. Run your finger along the fillet’s thicker edge to open a gap
between the flesh and skin. Slide a knife (boning, fillet, or chef’s) into the gap.
Working with the knife nearly parallel to the cutting board, angle the blade
downward to cut the skin away from the flesh. When there’s enough detached
skin, hold on to it to keep the fillet in place and provide slight tension to guide
the blade as you saw the knife all the way through to the other edge. When
you’re done, if you like, flip the skin over and scrape any loose scales off from
the shiny side.

238 Ever-Green Vietnamese

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