DINNER JACKET Cutline your sloper with jacket length. Back Panel 1/2 neck to chest. Bio DtoE=1", Connect A to C to E with straight line to finish center F= 3” above chestline. Gtol=3/4". HtoJ= 1/4", Connect F tol with hip curve ruler. Connect Ito J with straight line to finish back panel. Side Panel GtoK= 1/4". HtoL=3/4", 7 Connect F to K with hip curve ruler. Connect K to L with straight line. O= 1/3 MtoN. Square off O to P as guideline Qis on waistline. OtoR= 1/4". ee PtoT=5/8”. Connect R to'S with hip curve ruler. Connect $ to T with straight line to finish side panel. PtoW= 5/8", ‘Connect U to V with hip curve ruler. Connect V to W with straight line. X-= center front on waistline. Xto¥=11/2". Y¥ to Z = 3/6” for extension. k= 1/2” below sloper hemline. ‘Square off from Z to 1 Square off from 1 to 2. Connect Z to 2 according to design. Connect 2 to L with hip curve ruler. ‘Shawl Collar Z= break point. 3 = shoulder at neck. ~ 3to4= collar stand, Connect Z to 4 to $= back neck measurement. Sto 6= 1/2" shit. 6 to 7= collar stand = deepest section of neck shoulder at neck. 9 to 7= back neck measurement. Square off 7 to 10. 610 10= 1 1/2" (Fall= stand + Square off 11 to 12, 3 Connect 12 to Z according to Square off 10 to 13. Blend 13 to 12 to finish colar Darts 14=1/2Ntols. = Square down 14 to 2t016= 1 Connect 14 to 16 170 18= 1/2". 16 to 19 = 1/2” Connect 14 to 18 to 19 to fis ‘art Extend neckline to 12. See Pocket, pages 132-134 a NoteDIAGRAM-Dinner Jacket h center back. NesLINK FRONT EVENING JACKET Outline your sloper with jacket length Back Panel ‘A= 1[2neck to chest Btoc=l" DioE= 3/3" Connect A to to E with straight line to finish centr bs F=122 Gio I=1f3 to To K = tt) L=1/2 K tol Square down from L to M MtoN = 3/4" Connect F to with hip curve ruler. Connect toN with straight line fo finish back pane. Back Side Panel Mt00= 3/4”, Connect F to K with hip curve mie. Connect K to 0 with straight line P to to R= side seam guideline. PtoS= 1/4" a 12 Connect § to‘ with hip curve rue. Connect T to U with straight lin to finish backside panel Front Side Panel ProV= 1/3" Connect V to W with curved line, same as S to T. Connect W to X with straight line 3 Zto 1. [3 3104. 2t05=1" 6= 1/2 2t05. Square down from 6 to 7as guideline. 7to $= 1/2". Connect ¥ to 5 with hip curve ruler Connect $ to 8 with straight line to finish front side pane Front Panel 7109 = 1/2". Connect ¥ to 2 with hip curve ruler. Connect 2 to 9 with straight line center front on waistline. 310 10= 1” ‘5 = center front on hemline St06=1" 6t0 11 = 1/2", Connect 10 to 11 with strai 12= shoulder at neck point. Connect 12 to 10 with straight lin. 1Bison chest line 13 to 14= 1/4”. Connect 12 to 14 to 10 with hip curve finish new front design ‘Square off 11 to 9. Connect 9 to O with shallow curve to! jacket,enter fre t. ight line. th hip c ine ow curve rey DIAGRAM-Link Front Evening Jacket ae |_{10 KL bt7 12 BASIC CAPE Outline your jacket sloper. DIAGRAM A. ‘ Extend chestline to B. AtoB=AtoC. + D= shoulder point at armhole. Connect D to B with straight line. DIAGRAM B ra Eto F = cape length. E10G, EtoH, and E to = Eto F. Connect F, G, H, and I with hip curve ruler to finish front hemline, DIAGRAM C ‘ Dios “ TtoK = 1/2". DIAGRAM D. ‘Connect K to shoulder line with sleigh curve. TtoL= 12". Connect K to L with straight line to finish front. Back Panel Use the same method for drafting the cape front.: ; . } Use the method shown for drafting the basic cape. The front tab is 2 1/2” wide, see diagram.128 DIAGRAM-Long Flared Cape126 TAILORED. CARE. Outline your jacket sloper. Front Panel Extend chestline to B. AtoB=AtoC, Connect D to B with straight ine DtoE=6". EtoF=1/2", Determine hemline according to basic instructions on page 00. Ato G = front sloper width. Htol=2/3 AtoG. Connect B to F to shoulder with sl blending in at point D. Connect B to I with straight line. Center Front Extension GtoJ=11/2". Kisat neck point. KtoL=3/8" Connect G to L. LtoM=11/2". Nis center front at hemline. NtoO= 11/2". Connect M to J, J to O to finish f Back Panel ‘Use the same method for drafting front excluding the extension127 DIAGRAM-Tailored Cape sac Caan\ BUTTONHOLE DESIGN FOR CASUAL JACKET 3 Horizontal Buttonhole A= center of buttonhole, Ato B= 1/2 button diameter + 3/8”. Ato C= 1/2 button diameter + 3/8” for exte AtoD=3/8" DtoE=button diameter + 1/8” AtoD=1/8”. Basic buttonhole positions are an equal distan apart. Vertical Buttonhole Ist Button: G= center of buttonhole. G to H= 1/2 button diameter + 3/8" Gto1= 1/2 button diameter + 3/8” for ext GtoJ= 1/8” JtoK -button diameter + 1/8" Buttons located between first and last button! are placed in the center of the buttonhole. Last button has the reverse position of the Ist button,ew, / oe va db db ds Need Nese Ja EaBUTTONHOLE DESIGN FOR TAILORED JACKET Single Breasted Jacket Buttonhole A= center front on waistline, AtoB 2". C= Break point. 2 buttonhole diameter + 3/8” for extension. 18” yutton diameter + 1/8”. = 2" then repeat procedure. Double-Breasted Jacket Buttonhole A= center front. B= the same as single-breasted jacket buttonhole. AtoC=AtoB.1B DIAGRAM-Buttonhole Design for Tailored Jacket DIAGRAM-Single-Breasted Jacket Buttonhole fp DIAGRAM-Double-Breasted Jacket Buttonhole wig 108)132 POCKETS. Patch Pocket Chest Welt Pocket NOTE: The pockets shown on these pages are shown in minimum size. The size may be varied according to the design. Waist Pocket 1to2=11/4", AwB 2t03=3/4", Bio 3104=4" CtoD=7”, 410 Dio E=38", 310 Connect Cto E. Connect 410 5 ¥0 6 t03 CtoF=8" Square off from F to G. reas Squate off from E 10 G. AtoB=21/2”. Connect € to F to G 10 E. BtoC=3/4" CtoD=61/2” DtoE=3/8" Connect C to B. CtoF=2 1/2" ‘Square off E to G for 21/2". Connect F to G to finish pocket. Connect 4 t0 7. 7108=4 1/3 Connect 4 t0 5 to 8 107,Waist Welt Pocket 133 POCKETS Double Piping Pocket NOTE: The pockets shown on these pages are shown in minimum. size. The size may be varied according to the design. Ato Bioc=3/4" CtoD=6 1/2”. DtoE=3/8". Connect C to E. to is paral to center front Cwor=112" EtoG=1 1/2 parallel to center front. Connect C to F 10 to Eto insh pocket Waist Pocket AtoB=21/2" BtoC=3/4" CtoD = 3/8". DtoE=6 1) Eto F= 3/8) FtoG=3/8' Connect C to D, D to F, F to G, G to C, to finish pocket. Dravin-middle opening tine. Chest Pocket Angle, position and size of pocket will be the same as first three pockets,134 POCKETS Vertical Welt Pocket Diagonal Welt Pocket NOTE: The pockets shown on these pages are shown in minimum size. The size may be varied according to the design. Design shoulder torso line. See Shoulder Torso Line, pase 106. A=1/3 BLOC. AtoB=2", D=1/3 £00k. BtoC=7". Connect A to D. Draft width of welt according to design. GtoH=2" Htol Draft width of welt accofding to design.